17 January 2019

No Kpote Only 9A FA in Font barefoot by Charles Albert

Grimper reports that Charles Albert has made the FA of No Kpote only 9A in Fontainebleau. "Mowgli" stopped using shoes some five years ago and says the biggest problem is that you have to rest more in order for the toe skin to recover. Previously he has done a handful 8C's and one 8C+ in Fontainebleau, out of which several unrepeated. Video from last year together with Giuliano Cameroni, who comments. "If you use climbing shoes you need them super soft and no you would execute a slightly different move: instead of swinging with your left arm straight and your body out of the wall, you try to rock on the right foot, stay close to the wall and fall into the shoulder. The first three moves are more or less 8A. The the two crux moves, iron shoulder into cross, followed by the 7C+ stand." It should be mentioned that the 7C+ finish, which is not in the video, was chipped some years ago.
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