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Finals cancelled in Wujiang  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret started last out and looked to have everything in control three moves from the top when she slipped and it was obvious that the hold was wet, as the exact same thing had just happened for Jain Kim. As the rain seemed to just get stronger they decided to cancel both the finals. This means that the final results was based on the semifinal. As both Janja and Jain topped both qually routes and had the same scoring in the semi, we got two winners among the female. This also means that Janja Garnbret secured her overall title 2018.

1. Janja Garnbret/Jain Kim - Romain Desgranges
2. Jakob Schubert
3. Jessica Pilz - Hyunbin Min
4. Akiyo Noguchi - Hidemassa Nishida
5. Katharina Posch - Stefano Ghisolfi
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the male, Romain Desgranges got his first victory in 2018 and Jakob Schubert secured the overall title without having to climb the final. Overall, Japan got sex male and female in the Top-15 although some of the top male did not participate.

 
 
IFSC can not afford cancelled events any longer  Facebook
 

Several of the finalists in Wujiang were upset about the cancellation of a final again in China and said unofficially that they will not compete in China next year. Most of the athletes spend a full day travelling from Europe and then they are not allowed to climb a final in fair conditions or to climb the final at all.

As this has also happened in Europe, it is time for IFSC to either have all events indoors or to really cover the walls so it is possible to compete also during heavy rain. Do you know any other sports, beside regatta sailing and snow sports, where cancellation like this happens as often as in climbing?

 
 
Schubert & Garnbret WC winners 2018  Facebook
 

1. Jakob Schubert 495 - Janja Garnbret 550
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 437 - Jessica Pilz 460
3. Romain Desgranges 313 - Jain Kim 330
4. Domen Skofic 270 - Manon Hily 238
5. Alex Megos 230 - Hannah Schubert 202
Complete results

National Team Ranking
1. Austria 1 526
2. Slovenia 1 328
3. Japan 1 298
4. France 945
5. Italy 759

 
 
9a by Michał Jaworski  Facebook
 

 
 
Back Road 9a by Stefan Scarperi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Scarperi, #3 in the Euro Bouldering Championship in 2015, has done Back Road 9a in Rovereto after three days of projecting. In the Combined ranking game, the Italian is #11. (c) Fabio Fin

"Next week I will go to Frankenjura for two weeks. The main goal is to climb Action Directe and other cool stuff, then bouldering in Ticino.

 
 
9a and 9a+ by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is on a roadtrip in Balcan and in Mavrovo he first he put up Macedonian Trip 9a. "Project bolted by Klemen Becan in 2014. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. 3 goes."

Then he made the FA of Czech Trip 9a+. "Harder and longer exit of Macedonian trip. Bolted with headlamp on day 1, cleaned on day 2, rested on day 3, sent on day 4. (c) Bernardo Gimenez

 
 
Semifinal Wuijang  Facebook
 

Updated results The finals start 12.30 Euro Time.

 
 
Lead WC in Wujiang with streaming on Sunday  Facebook
 

From the Start List for the coming weekend's Lead World Cup in Wujiang, we can see that Stefano Ghisolfi will try out Speed but in general, the interest for Speed is not so big for the Lead specialists. Further more many of the top ranked Japanese will not participate and instead there are some new names out of the 15 that will participate. In general, eight of the Top-21 male ranked are missing and that goes also for the following weekend in Xiamen.

Live-streaming of the semi, 13.00 - 15.30 on Sunday followed with the finals at 18.30.

If Jessica Pilz wins the last two events, Janja Garnbret secures the victory overall by being runner up in one event and #3 in the other. If Jakob Schubert wins in Wujiang, he secures the overall title even if Stefano Ghisolfi is #2 in Wujiang and wins in Xiamen.

 
 
Weatherman 8a+ DWS by Julija Kruder  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJulija Kruder did follow her brother Jernej to Mallorca to try out DWS for the frist time. No fear - she started by doing a 7c onsight and then it just took her eight tries to do Chris Sharma's Weatherman 8a+ including some falls from 12 meters. This might be the hardest female DWS ever?

"I was extremely surprised, because she didn't feel any fear." Jernej, who also put up two 8b+' says that there is a video coming up.

 
 
Hours and outdoors are what counts for youngsters  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is the best climber in the history and he is also probably also the one, relatively to his age, who has climbed most hours in the world. Sure there great short term physical training programs which will make you improve but the #1 criteria to have a long term progress is how many fun challenging hours you put in.

A coach that can motivate her/his group to train and challenge themselves 20 hours a week, is probably much more successful in comparison to the best physical climbing trainer in the world, motivating the group just 10 hours a week. At the same time a youngster that not also love outdoors, if possible, will have hard time to keep the hours and motivation during the summer.

"I love training as much as competition!" is a recent quote from Akiyo Noguchi which also Ondra and other top climbers often say in public. Ondra interview from when he was 11-years-old. "More meters, more experiences, more fun!"

The bottom line is that you and the coaches should carefully pay attention of what motivates the youngsters in order to make them climb 20 hours a week. This might of course be a training programmed but it can also just be climbing. Everyone is unique but it is a fact that most of the best climbers did not have any coaches focusing on short term progress through strict training programs, when they were kids.

 
 
Platforms are part of the climbing future  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSA Mountain report that platforms at the base of Montgu have been built and that more are coming. It seems such platforms are coming all over the place in order to increase access. Such initiatives will increase the facility to the gym rats and families to try out climbing outdoors.

At the same time we see more hikes being comfortized as well as more via ferrata etc. Climbing is booming and the society is starting to understand that climbing, especially outdoors, have a great impact on public health. With Tokyo 2020, most probably what we see in order to lower the first step to get outdoors climbing, is just the beginning.

 
 
Ondra and Blutrich in Israel  Facebook
 

 
 
Reel Rock 13 - Trailer  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Is the Dawn Wall both 9a and 9a+?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing presents an interview with Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in regards their Dawn Wall ascent which has become a movie. Interesting is that Tommy had to do a variation pitch, including down climbing, as he could not do the dyno going more straight up. In fact, they say that either Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist could not manage the dyno and even Adam Ondra did choose the loop pitch. In the topo, both the loop as well as the dyno pitch are graded 9a but in practice, Jorgeson's straight up pitch is probably more like 9a+?

 
 
Stargate 8A+ by Ivana If Řezníková (36)  (3) Facebook
 

Ivana If Řezníková has done Star gate 8A+ in Szklarska Poreba. This was her second 8A+ this year when she also did six 8A's. More info on her blogspot.

 
 
8C and 8B+ by Vadim Timonov in Magic Wood  Facebook
 

 
 
Walk of Shame 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  (1) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 81+ #148, Walk of Shame in Verdon. Just during the last 12 months the 53 year old has done 17 8a+, which is a new personal best.

"No misunderstandings possible, it is 8 and very high class thanks to the vision of the talented Mr. P'tit Louis. a big thanks to him!"

 
 
Durif and Larson in Puerto Rico  Facebook
 


Puerto Rico || A World Less Traveled from Cold House Media on Vimeo.

 
 
Raining Bats and Dogs 8c by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Raining Bats and Dogs in Malham. " Great route, fell 11 times on the big move on the headwall before doing it. Powered by hairdo strawbs :)" (c) John Thornton

In 2009, Mina did her first 8A and she was also a successful competition climber having been #10 in a World Cup. In 2017, she did her first 8B (A+) but since her focus seems to have shifted to doing routes.

 
 
Leonidio Festival 1-4/11 with Angy Eiter  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTake part in the 3rd Leonidio Climbing Festival on November 1-4, 2018, in Leonidio, Greece. Join the festival and climb alongside Angela Eiter, the first woman to ever climb a 9b (5.15b) and Petzl team athletes Klemen Bečan and Said Belhaj. Remember to take part in Vertical-Life's Zlagboard contest!
The event is organized by the Region of Peloponnese and the Municipality of South Kynouria, and sponsored by Petzl!

 
 
Jerry Moffat campus board presentation  Facebook
 

 
 
Le Cadafist 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined WCH in 2016, has done the first repeat of Gerome Pouvreau's Le Cadafist 9a in Saint Léger.

"Yeah!!! 2nd ascent after Gerome. Very good job for the FA mate! Such a nice line! Bouldery sections at the start and at the top on crimps, mini pinches and pockets. Pumpy when you link it. Was heartbreaking to slip with my foot once at the very top after I climbed the hardest moves but today I came back, excited and with strong will and did it with style. Proud ascent! "

 
 
Yip and Fultz won Portland Boulder Rally  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOn October 6th Alannah Yip and Matt Fultz won the 8th Portland Boulder Rally, one of America's premier bouldering events with a $10,000 cash purse and all-day festival. (c) Rich Crowder Event highlights

 
 
Jain Kim has won most IFSC comps  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJain Kim won the last World Cup in Kranj and with 28 victories, she has won most the in IFSC history. Overall, the 153 cm tall worst result since 2009 is #3. (c) Eddie Fowke

28 Jain Kim
25 Angela Eiter
22 Mina Markovic, Sandrine Levet
22 Anna Stöhr
21 Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Kilian Fischhuber, Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Chabot
20 Jakob Schubert, Muriel Sarkany
18 Janja Garnbret
17 Francois Legrand
14 Robin Erbesfield, Adam Ondra

It should be mentioned that the first Lead World Cup was held in 1989 and the first Boulder W in 1999. Note that in the early years there were normally less events per year meaning that probably that climbers like Chabot, Levet, Legrand, Sarkany and Erbesfield would probably been higher up in the list based on equal competition conditions.

 
 
Two 9a's by Lukasz Dudek  Facebook
 

Lukasz Dudek has done another two 9a's, Der Lange Atem in Höllental and Sid Lives in Arco. "Short bouldery route. Looks ugly but it's a good piece of rock with some bad pinches and tiny crimps, 2 days."

In total the Pole has now done 18 routes graded 9a, 31 8c+ and 61 8c's, so the base is ready for a 9a+ cherry on the cake.

 
 
Dur Sex 8c+ by Laurent Vigouroux (40)  (1) Facebook
 

Laurent Vigouroux is clearly in the best shape of his life having done one more 8c+, Dur sexe in Lubaron and now he goes for his first 9a. In the 40+ ranking game, he is #3.

"Without doubts, I benefit actually of a really good shape and I also benefit of a series of success. For this one, I was under pressure since I knew that the weather forecast would not permit one more session in this route before the next summer. So, very happy to succeed in such mental pressure conditions, which is not my best quality.

Mathieu Bouyoud also did it one hour before me. Mathieu helped me a lot with some new methods. Next step for me in this spot is to combine this 8c+ with the hard end of "Le moutchiky, 8c" for a probable 9a. So I'm still on the way for my dream ;-)"

 
 
Male highlights in Buenos Aires  Facebook
 

 
 
La cène du roi lézard 9a+ by Cedric Lachat  (25) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's La cène du roi lézard 9a+ in Jansegg. Watching Cedric go more to the left, during his first sessions out of ten, avoiding the original elimination dyno, Pirmin thought Cedric solution was more logical and had already down graded it to 9a+ which Cedric confirms.

Cedric, who previously have done 22 routes 9a and 9a+, has never worked so long for a 9 graded route. He also tried Pirmin's La barrière 9b, which is the same route but instead of the 8b start it begins with a 9a variation, but he could not do all moves. (c) Adeline Helg

 
 
Nilbru 9a by Edu Marin  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin is back home in Spain after driving back from Flatanger for almost four days, where he among others did Valhalla 9a/+. They stopped in Rodellar where Edu did Nilbru 9a in four sessions. (c) Esteban Lahoz

Edu Marin is one of the best multi discipline climbers in the world, from winning the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2006 to do world class big wall ascents.

 
 
OPERATION REBOOT  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa Sportiva celebrates its 90th anniversary with a reboot of its climbing line: there are 3 classic models involved in the modernization operation with more modern designs and aesthetic solutions in line with the times. Make way then for the new versions of Miura, Futura, Cobra, Katana and Solution!

 
 
TTT 9a by Benjamin Guigonnet  Facebook
 

 
 
Female highlights in Buenos Aires  Facebook
 

 
 
Buenos Aires route setting change the conditions  Facebook
 

The Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires was a great show although different when it comes to topping frequency in comparison to WCH in Innsbruck. This certainly made it more fun to watch for the general public but some climbers think Lead should be about difficulty and not Speed. In general, I think the Speed element in Lead could be nice for the semifinal which otherwise sometimes can be more boring. However, in any case split times are crucial to increase excitement to understand who is climbing faster 3/4 up the route. Further more, having more than two guys topping out the final must be considered a route setting mistake. IFSC should make a statement how they want the route setting in order to inform if the Olympic candidates should also start training sprint up Lead routes below three minutes.

When it comes to bouldering, more tops are great like in Buenos Aires. On the other hand, the boulders seemed to involve less moves. Was the walls lower and less steep than normal? Possibly the route setter could lower the starting position with half a meter so there can be more action upwards to the top. And once again, two zones will force the route setters to make the boulders more interesting which both the climbers and the spectators will benefit from.

 
 
Dohi and Tanaka make a Japanese double  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn the end Keita Dohi was rather superior, performing at the highest standard in all three disciplines. Interestingly, Lead once again turned into a Speed challenge. As two out of the first three topped out, the remaining had to sprint but all fell in the last four moves having used just around three minutes.

1. Keita Dohi JPN 2 - 1 - 3 = 6
2. Shuta Tanaka JPN 6 - 3 - 1 = 18
3. Sam Avezou FRA 1 - 5 - 6 = 30
4. Filip Schenk ITA 4 - 2 - 4 = 32
5. Yufei Pan CHN 3 - 6 - 2 = 32
6. Peter Ivanov BUL 5 - 4 - 5 = 100
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Sam Avezou is the lucky winner at 6.96  (1) Facebook
 

In the very first Speed race, the favorite Sam Avezou made a big slip and finished second at around 8.23. Later Shuta Tanaka fell and Peter Ivanov also made a slip so Sam was the fastest "lucky looser". In the semi Sam once again faced Pan Yufei and beat him with some split seconds. Later Pan beat Filip Schenk in the small final. In the final, Sam had a clean race and made a personal best with 6.96 seconds against Keita Dohi 7.00. Complete results

It should be noted that only Tomoa Narasaki and Mickel Mamew, among the non-Speed specialists, have had a faster time at 6.70 respectively 6.77.

 
 
Male Olympic Finals  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Top-6 male final will be live-streamed today. Presentation of the finalists: Keita Dohi, Sam Avezou, Shuta Tanaka, Peter Ivanov, Filip Schenk and Yufei Pan. (c) Eddie Fowke

09.00 Speed GMT-3 Euro 14.00
11.45 Boulder
15.50 Lead

 
 
Thunder Ribes 9a by Rocco Micheletto  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRocco Micheletto, who works full time belaying kids in an adventure park, has done his first 9a, Thunder Ribes in Arco. (c) Marco Ceramella

"Climbing a 9a has been a dream for a while, I got close to sending one in my home crag (Covolo) a couple of years back, then I broke my meniscus and ACL on the key heel hook of this route and therefore I could not send it or continue to try it.

Since the beginning of 2018 I started climbing in Arco with my friends even though it is almost 2 hours away from where I live. In the spring I climbed a couple of routes and immediately started working Thunder Ribes. In May I fell on the final slab of the route. I started a training circles for the summer to get ready and luckily I got the send it.

 
 
Adam Ondra vs. Stefano Ghisolfi – Champions Challenge  Facebook
 

 
 
8A to 8C by Perwitzschky in SA  Facebook
 

 
 
The Speed experts were dead wrong  Facebook
 

In 2015, 8a asked some Speed specialist how difficult it would be for the non-Speed specialist to reach a very good standard. Based on the times of Tomoa Narasaki and Sam Avezou etc, they were actually dead wrong. At the same time, it seems that the younger ones much quicker adapt to going super fast in time.

2015: "In order to go below eight seconds, you probably need to do specific physical training for a year and also do many competitions, which would get you to understanding how to deal with the mental pressure.

To get below 7 seconds in Tokyo 2020 you need to focus half of your training on Speed as well as gaining some weight in the whole body. Thus you will also have to deal with the mental pressure that your standard in Lead and Boulder will deteriorate and you will have to climb outdoors less."


Narasaki did below 7 seconds after just three sessions and clearly he has sub 6.5 seconds capacity. Most probably we will see multiple non-Speed specialist doing sub 7 seconds in 2019 and during the Olympics, we just might see several doing around 6.5 seconds.

 
 
4 Tops and Lettner wins overall with 6 seconds  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannah Meul started first out, as she had the worst results in qualification, and set the standard by topping out with ease. She took two long rest further down but as she understood the route was way to easy she speed up, although chalked up before getting to another jug at the top.

All the five remaining did probably know Hannah had topped but even so, nobody could beat her time. The last one out was the overall leader Laura Lammer who only needed to be fourth to win overall. Nevertheless, the young Austrian climbed faster than the rest taking almost no rest and fell on the second last hold. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Sandra Lettner 3 - 3 - 2 = 18
2. Vita Lukan 6 - 1 - 3 = 18
3. Laura Lammer 1 - 4 - 5 = 20
4. Hannah Meul 4 - 5 - 1 = 20
5. Elena Krasovskaia 2 - 6 - 4 = 48
6. Mao Nakamura 5 - 2 - 6 = 60
Complete results

Interestingly, if Lammer had topped and finished #2 in Lead, she would have won (at 8 points), Meul would have been second (20), Vita Lukan third (24) and Lettner fourth (27).

 
 
Margo Hayes breaking records  Facebook
 

 
 
Three topped all 4 - Lukan wins  (1) Facebook
 

It did get exciting in the end as only one attempt separated the three who topped all four boulders. Vita Lukan needed 12 attempts, Mau Nakamura 13 and Sandra Lettner 14. On the other hand, this also means that the boulders were a bit to easy. Complete results

Laura Lammer, #6 in the qually, leads but if the Lead results remain from the first round, she will be third after Sandra Lettner and Vita Lukan.

 
 
Lammer wins Speed after 20 min delay  Facebook
 

The clock did not work during the first race during the Speed final and it took over 20 min until they re-run the first race. Then everything went smooth until the final race when favorite, Elena Krasovskaia, slipped and Laura Lammer won. Third was Sandra Lettner followed by Hannah Meul, Mao Nakamura and Vita Lukan.

In the qualification, Lammer was #6 but as she won and defends her results from the qualification in Lead and Boulder, she has good chances for a medal actually. Favorite for the gold is Sara Lettner, also from Austria, who was rather superior in the qually.

 
 
Two 9a's by Jakub Konečný (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakub Konečný, #6 in the WCH in Innsbruck, has done two 9a's in Misja Pec; Sanjski par extension and Martin Krpan. The 19 yer old Czech did his first 9a this summer and now he has done seven.

"Both routes felt like it’s pretty much my style. So maybe the real projects are still waiting.. I hope. Since I started to think about the training differently this year, a lot changed and I feel much more comfortably. Simply I changed the attitude to training, definitely train harder, on hundred percent, but also with the time to relax. Every time to focus, focus only on this thing:)

I went to the WCH in Innsbruck without any expectations. It was one of the lasts comps this season and my goal was only to be satisfied with my climbing and to enjoy the atmosphere. I competed only in Lead and definitely I couldn’t wish any better result. Also continuing in the rounds alongside with Adam was super cool."

 
 
Jeremy sends The Wheel of Chaos 8B+  Facebook
 

 
 
Josh Wharton honors Hayden Kennedy with FA  Facebook
 

 
 
All male favorites made it to the final  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGreat male qualification in Buenos Aires although we did see three tops in Lead, meaning time decided the results. All the five ranked favorites made it through to the Top-6 final and the #6 in the prediction was seventh overall due to a foot slip. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke - Keita Dohi, qualification winner who was the only one topping all four boulders.

 
 
Lead Olympics is more about Speed  Facebook
 

As there is no count back to previous round in the Olympics, Lead will be much more about Speed. In the male qualifation in Buenos Aires, we did see three tops separated by time and another seven further down the list. Among the female, nine out of the 21 had to be separated by time as they had the same hold score.

In general, many climbers will take chances and climb faster including going for the "+" instead of taking every rest. It just might be that there is a crux midways, where several falls and then it is about to be fastest to that position if you are not one of the top climbers. In the same way, if the route setters have made it too easy, it is about sprinting to the top. The guys starting late will have the advantage listening to the crowd going crazy for the first top.

The problem is that without digital split results like in slalom etc, it is very hard to know who is relatively fast etc. One solution is to measure split time 3-4 times to be used once the athletes score the hold.

 
 
The Understanding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is about to set new standards. Recently he did five 8B+' in just ten days and this week he started by doing The Understanding 8C as well as flashing The bizarre Ride 8A+ Counting just his send the last two weeks, he would have been #10 in the ranking game. Picture from his Insta.

"I don't know was his first answer to a question explaining the recent peak so then we asked, Please guess!

"Apparently a long break due to injury at the beginning of the year helped to relax and start training in a new way. At the beginning of the year I thought that this year I could forget about comps and projects on the rock.

The injury was a rupture of acromion joint after a snow board fall in January which left him with two plates in the shoulder. Vadim begun to train again in May and the "new way" was just that he trained more. Normally he trains alone 4-6 times a week and outdoors on weekends. Interestingly is that he has no sponsor and actually buy even his La Sportiva. Great Scandinavia summer video for the Russian who made it to the semi in the WCH in Innsbruck before a protest took him out to #25.

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

 
 
8c+ (9a) by Thilo Jeldrik Schröter (20)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThilo Jeldrik Schröter, who just turned 20, has been a successful boulderer for many years including being #4 in a Youth Euro Championship. Now he has been in Siurana for some weeks and it actually turns out that he has a great talent for routes as he just increased his personal best from 8b to 8c+, respectively, a possible 9a - Jungle Speed. (c) Tina Johnsen Hafsaas

"I worked the route for five days. The route is built up with a boulder in the beginning that could be something like 8A+, leading you into a rest. From there it's about 8a+ technical face climbing to the top, which for me was the redpoint crux as I fell there three times before nailing. Not many people that are able to do the start fall in the top, so I guess a route is never over before it's over for a boulderer, even though the individual moves feel easy."

 
 
9b again by Jakob Schubert  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Facebook with a great picture by © Elias Holzknecht/ WOODSLAVE productions,

"LA PLANTA DE SHIVA! After the biggest fight of my life I managed to clip the anchor of this amazing 9b in Villanueva del Rosario. 2nd Ascent after Adam Ondra. Super happy and proud to have send this one, my hardest route so far. Time for fiesta!"

Jakob has been the best male lead competition climber in the world since 2010 and in 2011 he won seven events straight. He also won overall in 2014 and last year he was #3. The Austrian is the fourth climber after Ondra, Sharma and Andrada to have done two 9b's. Here is a new Podcast.

"The process was actually rather special and I learned a lot about trying something that hard. The first few days on the route were pretty frustrating and I felt like I'm not strong enough for this route. I think it's the hardest route I have ever tried and because the rock is so special on the 9b part it's very difficult to find the right beta and can take a lot of time.
I kind of gave up on the route and climbed some easier ones for some days, but since it didn't get out of my head, I returned with more motivation and a better mindset and suddenly made a lot of progress. The send was epic, I almost fell at the second to last move and fought super hard to reach the last hold. Really happy and proud of this one.

2016 I will only do the Lead season (+BWC in Innsbruck) mostly because I want to have more time to climb outside until spring. I will fly to Hueco for 3 weeks beginning of February and after we have a 10 day training camp with the national team in Fontainebleau and in Andalusia. After that I'm not sure about my plans yet, but I really want to go back to Flatanger since it's such an amazing place and I would really love to try 'Move'.

 
 
Second 8c flash and an 8b OS by Janja Garnbret (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuka Fonda comes with another superb picture of Janja Garnbret, who flashed her second 8c yesterday in Santa Linya, La Fabelita. The 16-year-old got the beta from Mina Markovic, who belayed her and explained the moves. The Slovenian onsighted also one 8a+ and La Ruta del Sol 8b.
Having been in Top-3 in all the three World Cups and #2 in the Euro Championship last year, Janja is #6 in the 8a Climber of the year list, where her Slovenian teammates, Mina and Domen Skofic are #2 and #9 accordingly.

 
 
9a for Markovic and 8c flash for Garnbret  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic comes with amazing news on Facebook, "Special day for our crew today!!! Both @miiiinam (Mina Markovic) and @janja_garnbret made history today by doing a 9a (Fabela pa la enmienda) and 8c flash! (Rollito Sharma extension) Congrats girls, you're outstanding and a huge inspiration!"

Mina won the Lead World Cup this year and Janja (16) was #7 but she participated in only three events, making the podium in all of them. In the European Championships she was #2. All of them come from Slovenia, which is one of the leading Climbing nations although it has just about two million residents. In the 8a Climber of the year list, Mina is #2, Domen #8 and Janja #12. More info to come. (c) Luka Fonda

 
 
8B+ in 30 min by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi (14) comes with amazing news on Facebook, (c) Ikuko Serata

"Santa Claus gave me the best Christmas present ever🎁! I sent Phenomena V14 (8b+) in Hinokage, Miyazaki!!! This was the 2nd ascent after @dai_koyamada and the first female ascent!! I once again surprised myself by sending it after about 30 MINUTES of working on it!!!"

This was the 14-year-old's second 8B+ and one of the quickest 8B+ ascents in the history of bouldering. Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods are the only ones who have flashed an 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, Ashima is #2 in bouldering but if we take in consideration both routes and boulders, Ashima has been #1 in the world since she was 12 years old.

 
 
8B again by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (36) Facebook
 

Ashima Shiraishi reported on Instagram that she had sent Terre de Sienne during her first day in Hueco Tanks. It was set up by Fred Nicole as a hard 8B+ but now it is considered an 8B. She also made a quick ascent of Diaphanous Sea 8A.

The 14-year-old sent one 8B+ boulder previously (UKC reports four) and one 9a+ sport route. In fact, Ashima has had the most impressive combined female tick list for the last two years. It should be noted, originally both of these great boulders had a higher grade, however, we are reporting the consensus 8a grade.

 
 
9b by Pirmin Bertle  (44) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done the FA Meoise 9b in Charmey after 50 days of working on it and 150 tries, it was the last try the last day before leaving to Buenos Aires with his family for nine months! On the 30th March 2012, The German did two 9a's, Chromosome Y and X in 75 minutes, video. Meoise is a link up which actually goes straight up through two 8B cruxes.

Previously in 2015, he did one 8C+ and one 9a+. His 9b blog story is just amazing and here topo for Charmey and Jansegg.

 
 
8C+ and 9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle and one even harder  (21) Facebook
 

Pirmin Bertle, who has done six 9a's, did yesterday do his hardest route ever, which made him share the news that in April he did a 8C+ FA, Drop a line in Couisimbert and that he in August did the FA of Des scènes bizzarres dans la mine d'or 9a+ in Jansegg, video. Last week, he also did the FA of Mediomalomania 8C in Lindental, "but the hardest thing in my life I sent yesterday."

Interesting is that he did not climb at all during the first six months of 2014 due to having caught bone mark edema. Then he just climbed very easily for some months until he started to work only on the 8C+ boulder. Interesting is also that he only trains five hours a week and never indoors. More info on his blog and on 8a tomorrow. :)

Drop a line 8C+ at Cousimbert, the real video from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
Ondra wins in Kranj and gets the overall title  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, the double world champion from last year, won in Kranj meaning that he got another overall victory. His first Lead overall he got in his debut season 2009, being 16 years old. Including being #3 in the Bouldering WC as well as being #2 in both the Lead and Boulder European Championship, 2015 is also his best competition season ever.

Overall WC ranking - Kranj results
458 Adam Ondra CZE
400 Gauthier Supper FRA
396 Jakob Schubert AUT
376 Domen Skofic SLO
354 Romain Desgranges FRA

 
 
8B+ by Ashima Shiraishi (14) again  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi reports on Facebook that she has done 8A, 8A+ and 8B+ all in one day. This confirms that she is the best female climber out there, although being just 14 years old. Photo: @leibav

- V11, V12 and V14 in a DAY! Holy CRAP!!!!!! I had the best day climbing today!!!! It's been a while since I climbed on some REAL ROCK!!!! Started off the day by sending Worthless V11 then Wetness the Fatness V12 pretty quickly! Later on, I decided to give Nuclear War V14 a try and managed to send it!!!! Nuclear War hasn't seen a 2nd ascent in 9 years (when Matt Bosley did it). Psyched to have gotten the 2nd and 1st Female Ascent! Stay tuned for some video

 
 
Low prices at EPIC TV Shop  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEPIC TV is the biggest video climbing media and their webshop is growing with low prices, and that includes the biggest brands.

Solution (in the picture) is Euro 109 including free shipping. In fact, once you become a member you get 5 euro for free and then 10% lower prices. This means that new members pay euro 93.50 for Solution and then you get a 5 euro coupon.

You can also buy ropes for under 100 euro, a Mammut harness for 45 euro, a Grigri for 69 euro and even get a quick draw from Climbing Technology for Euro 6.95! And do not forget that the prices are 10% lower for members. It seems, pretty much all brands are at sale there so check it out and start saving some money.

 
 
9a's FA and 8c's onsight and ethics by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has added another 20 climbsand some interesting comments to his scorecard including 1 670 ascents, from his recent trips to Flatanger and Arco. The hardcore hightlights were two 9a's FA in Flatanger, Brunhilde low start and Witchhammer. "A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik...Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. Flatanger at its best."

The double world champion from 2014 visited also Hell, some two hours south from Flatanger by the Trondheim airport, where, among other things, he did the last project giving it 8c+ based on an interesting ethical comment. "The climbing is 8c, but clipping the 2nd bolt adds the grade."

The film producer Petr Pavlíček was with Adam and says Adam had also bolted some new lines one out of which includes the biggest dyno ever and it comes after a 9a route. Adam Ondra story of Change 9b+ from 2012.

 
 
First 9a by Erik Grandelius after reading a book  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl.

"We spent two weeks in Switzerland. The first day I realized that I was in good shape as I surprised myself by falling at the chains on the onsight of Paradis Articifiel 8c. We stayed another two days in Rawyl but then it became to warm (even though it is at 2000 meters) so we went to Gastlosen for a week. When we came back I sent the Cabane au Canada the first day on the second try.

Altogether I made six tries over three days. I feel that I have reached a deeper focus in my climbing, especially the last four days of the trip I dwelved into an almost meditative state as soon as a tied in, even on warm-ups. During the trip a was reading "Das Glasperlenspiel" by Herman Hesse and it made a great impression on my climbing. The great spiritual and intellectual discipline and the strong organization in the fictional Kastilien became an inspiration for me. I also feel that climbing hard in the alps also requires a great deal of organization and discipline as you have to time the weather, the resting, the nutrition and mental state perfectly.

 
 
Ammagamma 8B flash by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has flashed his 11th 8B, Ammagamma in Grampians, which was put up by Klem Loskot in 1999 as an 8B+.

"Despite the unstable weather we're making it happen down here in OZ. The climbing style and rock quality has definitely exceeded my expectations. Yesterday was a perfect day and I took advantage by flashing the mega classic 'Ammagamma' 8B. I've been wanting to climb this one for as long as I can remember and it feels amazing just to climb on it. @matt_fultz also took it down!"

In total, James has recorded 88 flashes 8A and harder and without all his personal gradings, it would be over 100. The runner-up in the flash category is Daniel Woods who has flashed some 65 boulders 8A and harder, out of which five are 8B's.

 
 
8a and 8a+ onsight by Kajsa Rosén (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoon Climbing reports that Kajsa Rosen from Sweden, who got the bronze in the Youth World's last year, has had an amazing onsight day in Voralpsee in Switzerland.

Beside onsighting Alaska kid 8a and Mordillo 8a+, she fell at the top of it's 8b extension. On Friday, the 18 year old is going to compete in the Imst Lead WC. (c) Stefan Ösund

- I did not go all in for the move as I did not think 8b onsight was possible. Kind of a stupid failure and I was not so happy. The 8a+ part was actually not so hard for me. I spent like 30 minutes on it.

 
 
Adam Ondra redpoints Three Degrees of Separation and suggests 9a+  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has made the second ascent of Three Degrees of Separation, a route Chris Sharma put up in 2007 as a 9a. In an old Planetmountain interview it was listed by Adam among "The Routes I Cannot Climb!"

"Three massive dynos into perfect jugs is something that is very rare on rock, especially in the middle of a route. I tried it for four days in 2010, but was actually never able to do the crux dyno, not even as a single move, although I was very close."

"You have to be able to do that dyno easily as a single move, because the 20 meters of 8c (5.14b) below really pump you out. Well, dynos aren't my cup of tea, I don't have the pure explosive power to perform them, but at least I can take advantage of my height. In any case, the fact that it remains unrepeated despite many attempts indicates that this one could easily be upgraded..."


After the ascent, Adam told UKC

"It is just too specific to grade, and I know for big dynoers like Jan [Hojer] the dyno is not that hard, but to get there fresh is quite a different story. To me it felt like the hardest route in Céüse, but that doesn't mean that it is definitely at least 9a+, because it doesn't fit me that well, but my suggestion is 9a+ and we will see." © Pierre Délas/Kairn

 
 
59 000 members and 3.5 million ascents  Facebook
 

Yesterday, the 59 000th 8a member signed up and in total there are now more than 3.5 million ascents in the data base that will help you to find the best crags and routes in the world. We are working on a totally new design that will be presented on Thursday both for the 8a community as well as on the Outdoor trade fair in Friedrichshafen.

 
 
8B by Jan de Smit (41) in Rocklands  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan de Smit, who started climbing in 1990 and was the Belgian Champion in 2013, is in his best shape ever, being 41 years old.

In the last week he has done 13 boulders 7C+ and harder including Mooiste Meisie 8B which was originally an 8B+. It is also interesting that he 185 cm tall has given personal grades for most of the hardest ones, including calling his flash of Stalker on the horizon, which was set up as an 8A, an 7B/+. Blogspot including great videos.

- Above all comments and grades, Rocklands has the most amazing boulders you will ever climb, anywhere.

Progression at 40+ involves more discipline and commitment. As you age the impact of sleep deprivation, malnutrition and over training can be deeply detrimental to your improvement. Over the years i have become more engaged in training and coaching, gathering information and experience I felt the need to bundle all this information in an effort to create a giant database filled with relevant information about training for climbing. All of this work resulted in the creation of Steelfingers.be , a free website with training tips and exercises for climbers.

 
 
Portrait of Jakob Kronberger (14) after his first 9a  Facebook
 

Here you have the link to Jakob Kronberger's very impressive scorecard.

A portrait of Jakob Kronberger from Wild Country on Vimeo.

 
 
8c (+) 2:Go by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi has done Nordic Flower 8c (+) in Flatanger on her second go, which was put up as an 9a. From Instagram: "It was nice to take a break from my wet/hard project and to climb this 160ft beast!" She is talking about Thor's hammer 9a+.

The 14 year old has previously this year done one 9a+ and one 9a and actually, she has had the most impressive female tick list in the world for two years now. © Henning Wang/MadSkillz Media comments, "I have never seen a female climbing so naturally and making hard moves looks so easy. Her endurance is just amazing apart from her power.

 
 
9a by Jakob Kronberger (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger has done Klem Loskot's Intermezzo XY gelöst 9a in Plombergstein. Last year, when he did his first 8c+ at the same crag, he said: "I would like to climb Intermezzo. If I can't do it this year, I already know what to expect in 2015!"
Alhough he is just 14 years old, Jakob is already 179 cm tall. More info to come. The youngest to have reached 9a are Ashima Shiraishi and Adam Ondra who were both 13 years old at the time. © Salzburg.com

 
 
Ben Moon, almost 49, does Rainshadow 9a  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Moon, who turns 49 next week, reports on Twitter@

"Just climbed my 2nd 9a 25 years after my 1st. Rainshadow 4th ascent. FXXXXXX psyched!!!"

His first was Hubble at Raven Tor which he originally graded 8c+ back in 1990. Ben is mostly known for short powerful routes and for boulders, while Rainshadow, put up by Steve McClure and repeated by Adam Ondra and Jordan Buys, is a power-endurance monster route.

Steve has previously said, "Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

 
 
8C(B+) in few tries by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has spent some time in the Rocky Mountains National Park together with other boulder WC athletes. There, Adam needed just a few attempts to repeat White Noise 8C (B+) and flashed Bear toss 8B. © Chad Greedy (Instagram)

The double world champion from 2014, was #3 in the Boulder WC last weekend in Toronto. In the forthcoming WC stage in Vail (Colorado) he will compete together with 132 participants, which is about 50% more than last year.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Chilam Balam 9b  (10) Facebook
 

Seb Bouin, who has done several 9a and also 9a+', has done the third ascent of Bernabe Fernandez Chilam Balam 9b from 2003. Originally it was graded 9b+ which created a lot of controvercy and in 2011, Adam Ondra (Video) did the 80 meter super steep route and suggested 9b.

 
 
Ethan Pringle does Jumbo Love 9b  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM Climbing has the full story of Ethan Pringle making the first repeat of Chris Sharma's 80 metre long Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain. Ethan had been projecting Jumbo Love since 2007 and here is a great video from 2013. © RV Project - Walker Emerson

In 2000, Ethan took the silver in the Youth World Championship and his best result out of seven Lead and Boulder WC's is #16. On rock he has done a handful of 9as and Biographie 9a+ in 2007, when he was the #1 in the 8a Combined ranking game thanks to three 8B+ boulders he also climbed that year.

Previously only six climbers have done 9b or harder (excluding boulder routes) out of which Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma with 12 and 8 are the only ones to have done more than one.

"WOW!!! Yesterday I climbed my ultimate lifetime dream route, the most bad-ass sport climb I’ve ever laid eyes on, Chris Sharma 's ‪#‎JumboLove‬! WOW. I can’t believe it’s over. I say that half in a literal sense because when I sent it, it was almost like an out of body experience that I can barley remember happening. My story on Jumbo Love spanned over eight years and involved every emotion I can think of: awe, excitement, love, admiration, longing, apathy, fear, frustration, anger, resignation, acceptance, and eventually, MOTHERFUCKEN GLORY!!!

 
 
Jonathan Siegrist does Era Vella 9a (8c) on his third try  (75) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist blogs about having sent Era Vella in Margalef on his third try. Chris Sharma made the FA in 2010 as a warm up and said it might be a soft 9a. Howwever, Jstar says many 8c's are much harder. He also says that the hardest sequence is like a 7A+ boulder problem.

"I climbed Era Vella and I had a lot of fun doing it. Grades are there to offer a foundation for difficulty but the more I climb the more I realize the plasticity of grading. I could comment on how I feel that Era is easy and make a list of routes graded 8c that are much harder and blah blah blah but what I'm after is not a grade, it is an experience. So never mind all that."

It should be mentioned that, over the years, 8a has received many comments like this by climbers who have done Era Vella but who wanted to remain anonymous. By checking the stats and all personal records including quick sends of Era Vella, 8c+ is probably a more correct grade for this world class 45m route.

Climbers should focus on the beauty of the climbs and "never mind all that (grades)", as Jstar explains in his blog and leave the grade to the media who are trying to report as correct news (grades) as possible.

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