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Briancon Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Manu Lopez who just became a father  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureManu Lopez has done his third 9a FA, Coup fourré in Faron nord after some 30 days of projecting it. Fanatic Climbing has the full report including more pics by (c) Théo Cartier

"I wanted to finish it this spring before the birth of my son but conditions were bad and the route remained wet. I finally did good progress after the birth, tired by short nights but more fresh with more rests between the climbing days."

 
 
Sofia Boulder EYC  Facebook
 

99: Pierre Le Cerf FRA - Urska Repusic SLO
01: Alberto Gines ESP - Camilla Moroni ITA
03: Eliot Barnabe FRA - Luce Douady FRA

France dominated the Euro Youth Cup in Sofia with three golds. Urska Repusic was the only one to top out all 8 + 4 boulders. Complete results

 
 
8B again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus, who previously has done two 8B+’, has done her 14th 8B, Doppelgänger Poltergeist in RMNP, in just four sessions. James Lucas

Did all the moves the first day and fell on the end on the 2nd, then the boulder started being wet. Ending up doing it while it was soaked just cause I was so psyched, and i tired super super hard to make sure I finished it! Psyched to step my game up more! Great power endurance boulder tho! Definitely a hard 8b, excited to feel good coming to Africa :)"

 
 
13th 9b FA by Adam Ondra  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done the FA of Disbelief 9b in Acephale. "Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish."

More info on his Insta where he also says, "I cannot think many other routes where I climbed so close to my limit."(c) Petr Pavlicek - Bernartwood

In total Adam has now, beside three 9b+' and one 9c FAs, 19 routes graded 9b out of which 13 FAs. The runner ups in the 9b and harder stat are Chris Sharma with eight routes followed by Stefano Ghisolfi four, Alex Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dani Andrada with three.

 
 
Lead World Cup 2018  Facebook
 

1. Janja Garnbret 280 - Jakob Schubert 235
2. Jessica Pilz 260 - Stefano Ghisolfi 206
3. Ashima Shiraishi 150 - Alex Megos 202
4. Jain Kim 130 - Romain Desgranges 164
5. Manon Hily 120 - Domen Skofic 163
6. Anak Verhoeven 116 - Sascha Lehmann 101
Complete rankings

 
 
Cafe Kraft: Antagonist training  Facebook
 

 
 
Karo Sinnhuber in Silvretta  Facebook
 


Karo Sinnhuber - Falsche Götter 7C+ from Karoline Sinnhuber on Vimeo.

 
 
The Simplicity and Beauty of bouldering  Facebook
 

 
 
Megos and Garnbret win in Briancon  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, winner in Chamonix last week, topped the spectacular route putting pressure on Anak Verhoeven and Janja Garnbret who started last out. Anak did also reach the top jug but fell of meanwhile Janja seemed to have full control, securing her 12th Lead WC victory.

Among the male, Alex Megos got his first victory by getting two holds further than the rest touching the last hold. He said he thought the route suited his style with some crimpers in the end instead of the modern volume and vulcano style holds. Noteworthy is that none of the athletes were even close to be timed out so it seems the athletes are getting used to climb a bit faster at the same time the route setting was quite straight forward. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Alex Megos GER
2. Jessica Pilz AUT - Roman Desgranges FRA
3. Anak Verhoeven BEL - Domen Skofic SLO
Complete results

 
 
Briancon Finals  Facebook
 

 
 
Exciting end of the semi in Briancon  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of a slow semi until Anak Verhoeven was timed out and pulled down as she was getting ready for dynoing to the top. Then, suddenly, a heavy rain storm started as Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges started to climb and luckily they both made it to the finals as the wall begun to get wet from above. If the rain storm would have come just some minuters earlier, the whole semi might have been cancelled. (c) Eddie Fowke

Noteworthy is that 50 % of the female finalists come from Slovenia and Domen Skofic is leading among the male. It should also be mentioned that most of the best Japanese and Jain Kim from Korea did not participate due to the Asian cup coming up. Nevertheless, Japan did have seven guys into the semi. Complete results

 
 
8A+ (B) by Anna Liina Laitinen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnna Liina Laitinen reports on Insta that she has done Daniel Woods’ Fragile Steps 8A+ (B) in Rocklands. (c) Jess Talley Previously, Anna has done several 8c+’ as well as 8b onsight.

This year I wanted to go somewhere where I haven’t been before and Rocklands is a good place to go on a summer time and it was a new one for me. I also wanna get more powerrrrr :)

I learned alot on this trip and everything I’ve learned will help me on sport climbing. I’d also love to do trad this year and get better as a climber in general, challenge myself in a different levels etc!!!”

 
 
Briancon semi  Facebook
 

 
 
8a+ flash and much more by Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has during the last two weeks done ten routes 8a to 8b including four flashes where La Ballade d’abdallah 8a+ in St Leger sticks out. Previously the 13 year old has done two 8B boulders, being 11 years old, and one 8B+ being 12.

 
 
Ondra's skin and onsight school in Canmore  Facebook
 

 
 
8b by Cathy Wagner (52) again  (3) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 15th 8b, Requiem in Précipice de Corbière. The almost 53 year old did her first 8b being 35 years old and as a matter of fact, during the last year she has done three 8b's and 16 routes 8a+, meaning she has her best year ever. In total, Cathy has done 670 routes 8a and harder, out of which possibly a third second go.

"Really unexpected to do this outstanding king line! A massive overhang offering climbing at its best:perfect rock, two hard sections, a technical wall at the end and knee bars to make it possible to control this beast! What a great day shared with a lot of friendly climbers! Super contente!!"

 
 
Kyparissi  Facebook
 


Destination Kyparissi from Andreas Markou on Vimeo.

 
 
Briancon Paraclimbing Highlights  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Robinson's exploring SA video  Facebook
 

 
 
Provisional Combined Ranking 2018  Facebook
 

As a preparation for the Olympic Games qualification, IFSC has changed the Overall ranking. Only athletes that have participated in at least two events per discipline are included in the ranking. In other words, in the below ranking, Tomoa Narasaki's score of 8 is based on 1 * 1 * 2 * 4 * 1 *1 (Boulder/Lead/Speed). His best result is Speed is #31 but as none of the 30 higher ranked have participated in also Lead and Boulder, he is the #1 ranked in Speed. Noteworthy is that 9 out of the Top-8*2 come from Japan.

1. Tomoa Narasaki 8 - Miho Nonaka 24
2. Jakob Schubert 192 - Akiyo Noguchi 120
3. Kokoro Fujii 270 - Iuliia Pantaleeva 3 528
4. Yoshiyuki Ogata 960 - Mei Kotake 8 064
5. Jernej Kruder 9 504 - Petra Klingler 8 600
6. Kai Harada 10 800 - Futaba Ito 15 360
7. Yufei Pan 21546 - Jain Kim 16 016
8. Keita Dohi 45 696 - Elena Krasovskaia 17576
Complete results
"11.7.8 Only competitors who compete in a minimum of 2 (two) World Cup competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) in the current season shall be given an Overall World Cup Ranking. When a competitor participates to more than 2 (two) competitions in a discipline than the best 2 (two) results in that discipline shall be selected.
11.7.9 The Overall World Cup Ranking shall be calculated as follows:
i. Each eligible competitor shall be awarded “Ranking Points” for each completed competition equal to the relative ranking calculated by ranking in ascending order (i.e. lower values are better) only competitors satisfying Article 11.7.8.
ii. A Ranking Point Total shall be calculated for each relevant competitor by
multiplying together the Ranking Points awarded for each eligible competition.
iii. Each relevant competitor shall be ranked in ascending order of the Ranking Point Total calculated for each competitor (i.e. lower values are better)."

 
 
Chamonix Finals Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
8C FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson, who has done some 900 boulders 8A and harder, has done the FA of Pirate’s Code in Three Corners. In total, Paul has put up 75 boulders here out of which 26 8A and harder. Three Corners is located

"Words cannot really describe this one. It has been a dream of mine to climb this boulder since i first found it in 2014. 16, 17, 18 were spent working this monster of a line and now it is complete. the king line in my favorite place in the world. does it really get any better than this!? Climbing is such an incredible thing and it feels really good to complete this goal after thinking about it for so so long. *I have eliminated the stand start from last year since it is a slightly arbitrary start. the full line is the line and now is THE PIRATE'S CODE! I look forward to some other strong guys trying this climb one day! I only ever tried it by myself so it will be great to see what others think of it :)"

 
 
8c+ by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done Demonstrating my Style 8c+ in Frankenjura on his fourth go. The 17 year old is one of the 8a members that are ticking most routes and boulders and just the last three weeks, he has done 16 routes 8a and harder.

 
 
9a+ FA by Jorge Díaz-Rullo  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Díaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that has done the FA of Panorama 9a+ in Patones, Spain. ©Germán González

"Yes! After a lot of days trying it, getting the good betas and even failing ... Today I've done maybe the hardest route I've climbed so far! It's never easy to climb a first ascent, and much less if the betas are yours ... I'm already wishing to someone's repeat! I will miss the wall but Panorama 9a +? is already on my list !!

In the ranking game Jorge #1 in Spain and #5 in the world ranking.

 
 
Chamonix Finals  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ in Rodellar by Piotr Schab  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, #2 in the 8a ranking game, has done Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ in Rodellar. "What a way to finish the trip! Extra extension, in my opinion makes a big difference. Super complicated route, to get to know all the tricks seems to be a crux. First ascent of this combination I guess."

 
 
8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did an 8c in 2016 being 11 years old, has done the fourth ascent of Szydercze zwierciadło 8c+ in Podzamcze. video

"It is very short - 5 quickdraws, and 12 cruxy moves on slopy mono holes, so it is quite hard to find the beta there. The holds were so bad, that I couldn't even use my chalk bag. But when the beta was finally found, i understood, that the hardest work is still undone. For example, I found the beta on the third day of climbing, and I climbed the route only on the 8-th day. It is due to the required accuracy of the moves. If i will put the leg a centimeter higher, I won't be able to do the move. And exactly the same situation happened with hands."

 
 
Chamonix semi  Facebook
 

 
 
Pilz and Ghisolfi win another perfect show in Chamonix  (19) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz and Stefano Ghisolfi were the only ones topping out the great final routes in Chamonix in front of 10 000 spectators. For Jessica it was her first WC victory after having been second six times. For Stefano, it was his fourth WC win. (C) Eddie Fowke

1. Jessica Pilz AUT - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
2. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
3. Jain Kim KOR - Alex Megos GER
Complete results.

 
 
Free topo for Silvapark  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life is giving away a free topo for Silvapark bouldering in their app! With the promo code BUMERANG, you can unlock the area, which is part of the Alpen en Bloc climbing guidebook by Panico.

authors: Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago
picture by Daniel Horwath

 
 
New topo for Rocklands with 2500+ boulders  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTonight there will be a release party for the new topo of Rocklands with 2500+ problems in 480 pages. Livin' Large has been given 8C+ by author Scott Noy. Grades have been updated and for morpho (height dependent), slash grades have been used.

 
 
Ondra's recovery from an 8 meter ground fall  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra did have an eight meter ground fall in February. Here is his recovery story from his Physio/Osteopath Klaus Isele.

 
 
Beautiful Zillertal  Facebook
 

 
 
Battle Cat 8c/+ by Sarah Kampf (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Kampf, who pre- viously has sent four 8c's, has done Battle Cat 8c/+ in Frankenjura after some 15 days of work. © Lars Decker

"Battle Cat is the most beautiful route I have climbed so far. The line is amazing and with its ca. 30 meters it is really uni- que for Fran- ken. It requi- res both endu- rance and max power, the single parts are pretty varied. Clipping the anchor of Battle Cat means a lot to me and I am very grateful for the people who supported this journey, it wouldn't have been possible without them."

How can you explain continuing being on your peak being 37 and with two small kids?
Hm, not quite sure, it is probably several reasons. I love climbing so much and I am really motivated. I have great climbers surrounding me who are inspiring me a lot. Furthermore, I am lucky to only work parttime which gives me time to train. And most important: I get awesome support by my husband. I don't follow a specific training regime but when time is too short to climb outdoors I often do some finger board training at home.

 
 
8 male Japanese Top-19 in Chamonix qually  (11) Facebook
 

Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Anak Verhoeven and Akiyo Noguchi topped both qualification routes in Chamonix. Other then that, all big names but Max Rudigier #76 and Julia Chanourdie #32made it to the semi. Interesting is that eight male Japanese qualified Top-19 and among the female four made it to the semifinal. In total, 92 female and 111 male participated. Complete results

 
 
Chamonix quaification  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Lead WC in Chamonix has started. Updated results You can also stay updated through the IFSC Lead App. The semi and final tomorrow will be streamed 10.30 and 20.30. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
8C (B+) by Dave Graham in Rocklands  (2) Facebook
 

Dave Graham (36), one of the best climbers in the world since 1999, reports on Insta that he has done Daniel Woods' Noise vs Beauty suggestion an uppgrade to 8C in Rocklands. "After battling with this rig off and on last season it was my primary objective upon returning here in Rocklands; it was an intense mental and physical journey to persevere, stay focused, not get distracted by the plethora of new boulders to climb :), and stick that last sloper from the start."

 
 
Pringle does the Nest 8C after 50+ days  Facebook
 

 
 
Olympic candidates starting to Speed fast  Facebook
 

During the Speed qualification in Chamonix we could see the Olympic candidates moving fast in Speed beside 12 guys in between 5.70 and 6.15.

6.72 Mickael Mawem
6.97 Tomoa Narasaki
7.12 Manuel Cornu
7.21 Yushiyuki Ogata

9.18 Elena Krasovskaia
9.28 Miho Nonaka
9.33 Claire Buhrfeind

It should be noted that three years ago 8a talked to some of the best speed climbers in the world and they did not think it was possible to get below 7.5 seconds without focusing for a long time on Speed. To get below 7 seconds they thought was almost impossible if not mainly focusing on Speed.

 
 
8C FA by Paul Robinson getting closer to 1 000 8A's  Facebook
 

Paul Robinson has done yet another FA video from South Africa where he usually spend his summers. Just yesterday he did the FA of yet another 8C after three years of projecting.

How is your bouldering lifestyle and motivation nowadays?
As you know I am very dedicated to making it to 1000 climbs 8A and harder. This has been a dream of mine now for a long time and it would be a dream come true to do it! I have less than 100 left now. I really am focused now on getting home and training. I want to get very strong for the fall. I made a list of 10 climbs that I really wanted to do before the end of the year a few weeks ago. I am not sure if I will get to try them all this year but this will be my goal and motivate my training even more this august/september.

 
 
9a (+) almost flashed by Adam Ondra  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has almost flashed Evan Hau's 45 meter Honour and Glory in Echo Canyon giving it a personal grade of 9a. First he fell by the 4th bolt due to a wet hold. "I lowered back to the ground immediately, rested for a few minutes and "flashed" the route on my 2nd go." (c) Sonnie Trotter

In February, Adam flashed and confirmed 9a+ for Super Crackinette. In 2012, he also flashed a 9a+ but suggested a personal down grade as he did with his first 9a onsight. Adam is well known for being honest giving personal grades that are later confirmed. In total Adam has now done some 200 routes originally graded 9a and harder out of which 182, he has taken 9a credit for.

 
 
Robinson's Rocklands Montage  Facebook
 

 
 
Babsi Zangerl doing Speed Integrale 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Unclip first drawers - belay more dynamic  Facebook
 

I heard about a minor accident yesterday due to hard belaying. The route starts on top of a pile of stones with the first quick draw very low. This means if you do not unclip the first drawers, it is very hard to stay away from the rock and belay dynamic.

In theory, whenever the first quickdraw is very low, you should consider unclip it as this will increase your possibility to belay dynamic. You should practice such belaying indoors before trying it outdoors. An easy way to create a dynamic fall is actually to bend your legs, in critical situations, as this will reduce the risk to get frightened and sit down during impact. decreasing the softness of the fall.

 
 
Body tension exercises while bouldering  Facebook
 

 
 
8A+' by Alizée Dufraisse in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Alizée Dufraisse has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Lèopard cave and Law and Order 8A+. "I will be here the whole summer. I have some hard projects that I tried last year.

 
 
Still few warm up properly  Facebook
 

Based on 1 000+ unique votes to, Warming-up before climbing?, with the 2014 results in brackets, we can see that still few warm up properly. This is quite interesting as often when a training article is published, the authors often underline that proper warming up is important.

06 % NO: Full power directly (4)
28 % NO: Only easy climbing (28)
14 % Sometimes/Few minutes (15)
16 % Often/8 minutes (19)
37 % YES: At least 15 min (34)

 
 
First 8C for Thilo Schröter  (2) Facebook
 

Thilo Schröter, #11 in Moscow Boulder WC in 2018, has done his first 8C, Spray of Light in Rocklands which was put up by Daniel Woods.

 
 
Euro Youth Cup in Munchen  Facebook
 

Slovenia and Spain got two victories each in the Euro Youth Cup in München. The only one to top out all three routes was Alberto Gines Lopez.
99: Luiza Emeleva RUS - Mikel Linacisoro ESP
01: Lucka Rakovec SLO - Alberto Gines López ESP
03: Lucija Tarkus SLO - Hannes van Deysen BEL
Complete results

 
 
 
Bombero de la Roca 7a+ in Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Pau Contreras en Wonder boy (8b) FA, Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
Rescat Emocional (7b+), Sant Llorenç del Munt  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Hungry Monkeys in Railay  Facebook
 


Hungry Monkeys from Ironmanfilms on Vimeo.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
9a+ FA in Flatanger and two 8b+ (c) onsights  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is back in Flatanger where he has made yet another great FA, 120 degrees 9a+. "Absolutely crazy inverted roof boulderproblem after having done the first part of Elden Inuti."

In fact, Flatanger is the crag in the world with most hard routes and Adam has been one of the pioneers having put up six routes in between 9a+ and 9b+. During the last week, Adam has also onsighted two 8b+' and one 8a+ and that is measured by his personal grades. (c) Erik Massih - It never gets darker than this during the summer nights in Flatanger.

 
 
Close to 6 000 crags in the database  Facebook
 

In total, there are close to 4 million ascents in the 8a database and there is a Tick List available for almost 6 000 crags. You can add more crags to the database in a link at the top where you add routes and boulders.

The crag with most ascents is Fontainebleau with 104 000, followed by Kalymnos with 98 000.

 
 
Jon Cardwell has done Biographie 9a+: Interview!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who did his first 9a in 2008, has done his long-term project, Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. It was bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Chris Sharma made the FA in 2001. Biographie has seen 13 ascents to date, which makes it the most repeated 9a+ in the world. (c) Carlo Traversi

Check out Jon's comments for his nicest journey that took ten years and included 75 tries.

- Climbing means so many different things to me. It's an outlet for self expression, a vehicle to travel the worth with and experience incredible places. It's also a wise teacher that holds you accountable for every action from your footprint at fragile crags to your preparation for meaningful climbs. More than anything, it's just fun!"

 
 
8C after driving 7 000 km by Tamás Zupán  (17) Facebook
 

Tamás Zupán has set a new record of dedication by doing his second 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal, driving 7 000 kilometers to reach his goal.

- I was there with my friend in the middle of March and I climbed some boulders in the lower sector and I tried Gizmo 8B, which is a variant of Zunami. I live 600 km far from Saalachtal and I could travel there only on Wednesdays because of my work. I woke up at 4:30 a.m., started my journey from home at 5 a.m. and I came in Saalachtal at 11 a.m. I climbed until 2 p.m. and I arrived at 8 p.m. I climbed ’Gizmo’ on the second trip and finally I could manage ’Zunami’ on my 6th trip.

The first move is incredible complex because in the same time you should move separately your all limbs when make the crossing movement, after it is really crimpy, overhanging and that’s why I really liked it.

 
 
8b onsight by Laura Rogora (14) and one more today  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who just did her first 9a, has onsighted Batuka 8b in Margalef and she put up all the draws by herself. Batuka has been recorded 57 times in the data base, all with 8b and only two guys have onsighted it before.

- The route is divided in two sections with a very good rest in the middle. The first four bolt are hard and I thought to fall every move. The second part is easier but there is another hard move. Today was the first day of the trip. In this week I would like to visit new crags: Santa Linya, Rodellar...

Today the 14-year-old onsighted Codigo Norte, an 8b in Santa Linya. "I'm staying here just for one week so I think I will climb only onsight."

 
 
Anak Verhoeven (19) makes the FA of Ma belle ma muse 9a  (1) Facebook
 

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer.



Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

 
 
Kajsa Rosén (18) - A new star in the making  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKajsa Rosén, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana."

Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

Loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection.

"Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

 
 
Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda

"Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing.

The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha.

Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well.

The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

 
 
8B (+) flash by James Webb again  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has traveled to Finland to take part in Sisu Masters with an amazing line up including Daniel Woods and Dave Graham but also to try Nalle Hukkataival's Boulders. First they had to crush some ice on the top of the Globalist in Sipoo and then James just flashed it and gave it a personal grade of 8B. The best flash boulderer in the world has now flashed 13 8B Boulders, four out of which were originally graded 8B+. (c) Nico Backström

"Absolutely incredible boulder from Nalle that I've wanted to climb on for so long. Perfect rock, amazing movement. One of the best!"

Next up could be Hukkataival's famous Sisu or Lappnor Project that the Fin has been trying for six respectively four years speculating that it could become the next level.

 
 
8b+ flash and a 8c by Kajsa Rosén (18)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSimon Carter, a professional climbing photographer for 25 years, reports on Facebook:

"I've seen a lot of really impressive climbing over all the time I've spent at Oliana over the years... and add to that today's jaw-dropping sends by 18 year-old Swedish climber Kajsa Rosen. First up she hiked Fisheye (8c) first shot (after only working it twice yesterday), for her first of the grade, and THEN casually flashed Los Humildes pa Casa (8b+) soon after (pictured). Kajsa Rosen; a name to watch out for for sure!"

Simon is spot-on as the young Swede has had an extreme development over the last few years. In the past year, she was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did.

So how much beta did you get and do you still plan to get yourself a station wagon and hit the road?
I saw a french guy climbing it and he told me about a knee bar. I heard some screaming from below but it was very windy. My plan is to do some comps and some rock climbing and have fun. I graduate this year so hopefully I will have some more time for climbing.

 
 
8C by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (21) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureReel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof.

- "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that."

Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

 
 
8C by Ryuichi Murai incl amazing 240 spin  (3) Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai , who two weeks ago did two 8B+, has done Dai Koyamada's Babel 8C in Shiobara. "This problem links Catharsis(8B+) to Hydra(8B) via Uma(8B+). About 30 moves that include various moves made me enjoy myself."

Totally amazing! Watch that mind-boggling sequence where the 167 cm tall spins 240 degrees with his foot. How is it even possible to find such solution :)

 
 
Laura Rogora (14) does her first 9a  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has become the first Italian female to do a 9a by Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga, which is a 20 meter long roof link up. Last year the 14-year-old won both Lead and Boulder Italian Championships and to make the story even more amazing, she mainly just trains in a Bouldering gym. She is #1 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Stefano Michelin/UP-Climbing

- It took me about 15-20 tries in one month and half. I went to Sperlonga seven times. I didn't do a specific training for this route because my purpose is training for competition. Now I need going to train hard for competition especially for the world youth championship in China in November. Surely I will continue to climb on the rock. I planned a trip to Spain in April I think I will climb on sight.

 
 
Mowgli repeats his 8B+ (C) twice after just a short warm up  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, who did the FA of the L'Alchimiste left exit last week, considered to be harder than the 8C right exit, did it today twice. (c) Neil Hart did get it on video both times.

"He is so strong he made it look like a 6A. I picked him up at one o'clock and we did a very quick 7B that took two tries and we drove to the L'alchimiste. He just pulled on and fell three times on the crux then sent it, then climbed it again so we could get another angle.

It is easier for him bare foot because he can hook his toes into the side pulls better. Definitely a new level!"

 
 
Women are catching up in the Santa Linya caves  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome ten years ago, several men - notably Dani Andrada, Patxi Usobiaga and Chris Sharma - broke through to the next grading level establishing several 9a's and 9a+'s in Santa Linya. As of 2016, however, it seems that progress has become stagnant with Chris Sharma's two 9b FAs representing the highest attainable level.

Women, in the mean time, have caught up, in 2010 Angela Eiter did the first female 8c in Santa Linya. Quickly thereafter other women have followed suit with ten other females having completed climbs ranging from 8c to 9a(+) over the last two years. Complete stats. In this great picture captured by Luka Fonda, Janja Garnbret (16) flashes La Fabelita 8c.

If the trend continues, it is only a matter of time before women are on par with men in Santa Linya. While impossible to know for certain, one of the reasons behind such phenomenal progress for women may lie in the nature of the climbing in the cave where technical skill and endurance are of vital importance. That, and the fact that these ten women - and the many who will follow - are testaments of climbing strength and power.

 
 
Charles Albert interview  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart

"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me it’s not harder than “Gecko assis”, the 8B+ I did barefoot last year… I also tried the sit start of “Alchimiste” which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesn’t change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"

 
 
"A 14-year-old girl redefines rock climbing"  (6) Facebook
 

BBC has made an interview with Ashima Shiraishi, where, among other things, she says her goal is to break records held by her male counterparts. The 14-year-old claims to be the only female to have done a 9a+ (Direct open your mind R1 in Santa Linya) and the youngest person to have reached that grade.

It should be noticed that the route was originally a 9a until some holds broke and it was speculated that it might be a 9a+. Later Edu Marin repeated it saying it is still a 9a. The first woman to claim having done a 9a+ route was Josune Bereziartu (route: Bimbaluna), which has been subject of being downgraded.

 
 
8c+ (9a) by Thilo Jeldrik Schröter (20)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThilo Jeldrik Schröter, who just turned 20, has been a successful boulderer for many years including being #4 in a Youth Euro Championship. Now he has been in Siurana for some weeks and it actually turns out that he has a great talent for routes as he just increased his personal best from 8b to 8c+, respectively, a possible 9a - Jungle Speed. (c) Tina Johnsen Hafsaas

"I worked the route for five days. The route is built up with a boulder in the beginning that could be something like 8A+, leading you into a rest. From there it's about 8a+ technical face climbing to the top, which for me was the redpoint crux as I fell there three times before nailing. Not many people that are able to do the start fall in the top, so I guess a route is never over before it's over for a boulderer, even though the individual moves feel easy."

 
 
9b again by Jakob Schubert  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Facebook with a great picture by © Elias Holzknecht/ WOODSLAVE productions,

"LA PLANTA DE SHIVA! After the biggest fight of my life I managed to clip the anchor of this amazing 9b in Villanueva del Rosario. 2nd Ascent after Adam Ondra. Super happy and proud to have send this one, my hardest route so far. Time for fiesta!"

Jakob has been the best male lead competition climber in the world since 2010 and in 2011 he won seven events straight. He also won overall in 2014 and last year he was #3. The Austrian is the fourth climber after Ondra, Sharma and Andrada to have done two 9b's. Here is a new Podcast.

"The process was actually rather special and I learned a lot about trying something that hard. The first few days on the route were pretty frustrating and I felt like I'm not strong enough for this route. I think it's the hardest route I have ever tried and because the rock is so special on the 9b part it's very difficult to find the right beta and can take a lot of time.
I kind of gave up on the route and climbed some easier ones for some days, but since it didn't get out of my head, I returned with more motivation and a better mindset and suddenly made a lot of progress. The send was epic, I almost fell at the second to last move and fought super hard to reach the last hold. Really happy and proud of this one.

2016 I will only do the Lead season (+BWC in Innsbruck) mostly because I want to have more time to climb outside until spring. I will fly to Hueco for 3 weeks beginning of February and after we have a 10 day training camp with the national team in Fontainebleau and in Andalusia. After that I'm not sure about my plans yet, but I really want to go back to Flatanger since it's such an amazing place and I would really love to try 'Move'.

 
 
Second 8c flash and an 8b OS by Janja Garnbret (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLuka Fonda comes with another superb picture of Janja Garnbret, who flashed her second 8c yesterday in Santa Linya, La Fabelita. The 16-year-old got the beta from Mina Markovic, who belayed her and explained the moves. The Slovenian onsighted also one 8a+ and La Ruta del Sol 8b.
Having been in Top-3 in all the three World Cups and #2 in the Euro Championship last year, Janja is #6 in the 8a Climber of the year list, where her Slovenian teammates, Mina and Domen Skofic are #2 and #9 accordingly.

 
 
9a for Markovic and 8c flash for Garnbret  (24) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic comes with amazing news on Facebook, "Special day for our crew today!!! Both @miiiinam (Mina Markovic) and @janja_garnbret made history today by doing a 9a (Fabela pa la enmienda) and 8c flash! (Rollito Sharma extension) Congrats girls, you're outstanding and a huge inspiration!"

Mina won the Lead World Cup this year and Janja (16) was #7 but she participated in only three events, making the podium in all of them. In the European Championships she was #2. All of them come from Slovenia, which is one of the leading Climbing nations although it has just about two million residents. In the 8a Climber of the year list, Mina is #2, Domen #8 and Janja #12. More info to come. (c) Luka Fonda

 
 
8B+ in 30 min by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi (14) comes with amazing news on Facebook, (c) Ikuko Serata

"Santa Claus gave me the best Christmas present ever🎁! I sent Phenomena V14 (8b+) in Hinokage, Miyazaki!!! This was the 2nd ascent after @dai_koyamada and the first female ascent!! I once again surprised myself by sending it after about 30 MINUTES of working on it!!!"

This was the 14-year-old's second 8B+ and one of the quickest 8B+ ascents in the history of bouldering. Adam Ondra and Daniel Woods are the only ones who have flashed an 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, Ashima is #2 in bouldering but if we take in consideration both routes and boulders, Ashima has been #1 in the world since she was 12 years old.

 
 
8B again by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (36) Facebook
 

Ashima Shiraishi reported on Instagram that she had sent Terre de Sienne during her first day in Hueco Tanks. It was set up by Fred Nicole as a hard 8B+ but now it is considered an 8B. She also made a quick ascent of Diaphanous Sea 8A.

The 14-year-old sent one 8B+ boulder previously (UKC reports four) and one 9a+ sport route. In fact, Ashima has had the most impressive combined female tick list for the last two years. It should be noted, originally both of these great boulders had a higher grade, however, we are reporting the consensus 8a grade.

 
 
9b by Pirmin Bertle  (44) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePirmin Bertle has done the FA Meoise 9b in Charmey after 50 days of working on it and 150 tries, it was the last try the last day before leaving to Buenos Aires with his family for nine months! On the 30th March 2012, The German did two 9a's, Chromosome Y and X in 75 minutes, video. Meoise is a link up which actually goes straight up through two 8B cruxes.

Previously in 2015, he did one 8C+ and one 9a+. His 9b blog story is just amazing and here topo for Charmey and Jansegg.

 
 
8C+ and 9a+ FA by Pirmin Bertle and one even harder  (21) Facebook
 

Pirmin Bertle, who has done six 9a's, did yesterday do his hardest route ever, which made him share the news that in April he did a 8C+ FA, Drop a line in Couisimbert and that he in August did the FA of Des scènes bizzarres dans la mine d'or 9a+ in Jansegg, video. Last week, he also did the FA of Mediomalomania 8C in Lindental, "but the hardest thing in my life I sent yesterday."

Interesting is that he did not climb at all during the first six months of 2014 due to having caught bone mark edema. Then he just climbed very easily for some months until he started to work only on the 8C+ boulder. Interesting is also that he only trains five hours a week and never indoors. More info on his blog and on 8a tomorrow. :)

Drop a line 8C+ at Cousimbert, the real video from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
 
Ondra wins in Kranj and gets the overall title  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, the double world champion from last year, won in Kranj meaning that he got another overall victory. His first Lead overall he got in his debut season 2009, being 16 years old. Including being #3 in the Bouldering WC as well as being #2 in both the Lead and Boulder European Championship, 2015 is also his best competition season ever.

Overall WC ranking - Kranj results
458 Adam Ondra CZE
400 Gauthier Supper FRA
396 Jakob Schubert AUT
376 Domen Skofic SLO
354 Romain Desgranges FRA

 
 
8B+ by Ashima Shiraishi (14) again  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi reports on Facebook that she has done 8A, 8A+ and 8B+ all in one day. This confirms that she is the best female climber out there, although being just 14 years old. Photo: @leibav

- V11, V12 and V14 in a DAY! Holy CRAP!!!!!! I had the best day climbing today!!!! It's been a while since I climbed on some REAL ROCK!!!! Started off the day by sending Worthless V11 then Wetness the Fatness V12 pretty quickly! Later on, I decided to give Nuclear War V14 a try and managed to send it!!!! Nuclear War hasn't seen a 2nd ascent in 9 years (when Matt Bosley did it). Psyched to have gotten the 2nd and 1st Female Ascent! Stay tuned for some video

 
 
Low prices at EPIC TV Shop  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEPIC TV is the biggest video climbing media and their webshop is growing with low prices, and that includes the biggest brands.

Solution (in the picture) is Euro 109 including free shipping. In fact, once you become a member you get 5 euro for free and then 10% lower prices. This means that new members pay euro 93.50 for Solution and then you get a 5 euro coupon.

You can also buy ropes for under 100 euro, a Mammut harness for 45 euro, a Grigri for 69 euro and even get a quick draw from Climbing Technology for Euro 6.95! And do not forget that the prices are 10% lower for members. It seems, pretty much all brands are at sale there so check it out and start saving some money.

 
 
9a's FA and 8c's onsight and ethics by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has added another 20 climbsand some interesting comments to his scorecard including 1 670 ascents, from his recent trips to Flatanger and Arco. The hardcore hightlights were two 9a's FA in Flatanger, Brunhilde low start and Witchhammer. "A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik...Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. Flatanger at its best."

The double world champion from 2014 visited also Hell, some two hours south from Flatanger by the Trondheim airport, where, among other things, he did the last project giving it 8c+ based on an interesting ethical comment. "The climbing is 8c, but clipping the 2nd bolt adds the grade."

The film producer Petr Pavlíček was with Adam and says Adam had also bolted some new lines one out of which includes the biggest dyno ever and it comes after a 9a route. Adam Ondra story of Change 9b+ from 2012.

 
 
First 9a by Erik Grandelius after reading a book  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureErik Grandelius seems to be in the best shape of his life, having onsighed two 8b's and done his first 9a, Cabane au Canada in Rawyl.

"We spent two weeks in Switzerland. The first day I realized that I was in good shape as I surprised myself by falling at the chains on the onsight of Paradis Articifiel 8c. We stayed another two days in Rawyl but then it became to warm (even though it is at 2000 meters) so we went to Gastlosen for a week. When we came back I sent the Cabane au Canada the first day on the second try.

Altogether I made six tries over three days. I feel that I have reached a deeper focus in my climbing, especially the last four days of the trip I dwelved into an almost meditative state as soon as a tied in, even on warm-ups. During the trip a was reading "Das Glasperlenspiel" by Herman Hesse and it made a great impression on my climbing. The great spiritual and intellectual discipline and the strong organization in the fictional Kastilien became an inspiration for me. I also feel that climbing hard in the alps also requires a great deal of organization and discipline as you have to time the weather, the resting, the nutrition and mental state perfectly.

 
 
Ammagamma 8B flash by James Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Webb has flashed his 11th 8B, Ammagamma in Grampians, which was put up by Klem Loskot in 1999 as an 8B+.

"Despite the unstable weather we're making it happen down here in OZ. The climbing style and rock quality has definitely exceeded my expectations. Yesterday was a perfect day and I took advantage by flashing the mega classic 'Ammagamma' 8B. I've been wanting to climb this one for as long as I can remember and it feels amazing just to climb on it. @matt_fultz also took it down!"

In total, James has recorded 88 flashes 8A and harder and without all his personal gradings, it would be over 100. The runner-up in the flash category is Daniel Woods who has flashed some 65 boulders 8A and harder, out of which five are 8B's.

 
 
8a and 8a+ onsight by Kajsa Rosén (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoon Climbing reports that Kajsa Rosen from Sweden, who got the bronze in the Youth World's last year, has had an amazing onsight day in Voralpsee in Switzerland.

Beside onsighting Alaska kid 8a and Mordillo 8a+, she fell at the top of it's 8b extension. On Friday, the 18 year old is going to compete in the Imst Lead WC. (c) Stefan Ösund

- I did not go all in for the move as I did not think 8b onsight was possible. Kind of a stupid failure and I was not so happy. The 8a+ part was actually not so hard for me. I spent like 30 minutes on it.

 
 
Adam Ondra redpoints Three Degrees of Separation and suggests 9a+  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has made the second ascent of Three Degrees of Separation, a route Chris Sharma put up in 2007 as a 9a. In an old Planetmountain interview it was listed by Adam among "The Routes I Cannot Climb!"

"Three massive dynos into perfect jugs is something that is very rare on rock, especially in the middle of a route. I tried it for four days in 2010, but was actually never able to do the crux dyno, not even as a single move, although I was very close."

"You have to be able to do that dyno easily as a single move, because the 20 meters of 8c (5.14b) below really pump you out. Well, dynos aren't my cup of tea, I don't have the pure explosive power to perform them, but at least I can take advantage of my height. In any case, the fact that it remains unrepeated despite many attempts indicates that this one could easily be upgraded..."


After the ascent, Adam told UKC

"It is just too specific to grade, and I know for big dynoers like Jan [Hojer] the dyno is not that hard, but to get there fresh is quite a different story. To me it felt like the hardest route in Céüse, but that doesn't mean that it is definitely at least 9a+, because it doesn't fit me that well, but my suggestion is 9a+ and we will see." © Pierre Délas/Kairn

 
 
59 000 members and 3.5 million ascents  Facebook
 

Yesterday, the 59 000th 8a member signed up and in total there are now more than 3.5 million ascents in the data base that will help you to find the best crags and routes in the world. We are working on a totally new design that will be presented on Thursday both for the 8a community as well as on the Outdoor trade fair in Friedrichshafen.

 
 
8B by Jan de Smit (41) in Rocklands  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan de Smit, who started climbing in 1990 and was the Belgian Champion in 2013, is in his best shape ever, being 41 years old.

In the last week he has done 13 boulders 7C+ and harder including Mooiste Meisie 8B which was originally an 8B+. It is also interesting that he 185 cm tall has given personal grades for most of the hardest ones, including calling his flash of Stalker on the horizon, which was set up as an 8A, an 7B/+. Blogspot including great videos.

- Above all comments and grades, Rocklands has the most amazing boulders you will ever climb, anywhere.

Progression at 40+ involves more discipline and commitment. As you age the impact of sleep deprivation, malnutrition and over training can be deeply detrimental to your improvement. Over the years i have become more engaged in training and coaching, gathering information and experience I felt the need to bundle all this information in an effort to create a giant database filled with relevant information about training for climbing. All of this work resulted in the creation of Steelfingers.be , a free website with training tips and exercises for climbers.

 
 
Portrait of Jakob Kronberger (14) after his first 9a  Facebook
 

Here you have the link to Jakob Kronberger's very impressive scorecard.

A portrait of Jakob Kronberger from Wild Country on Vimeo.

 
 
8c (+) 2:Go by Ashima Shiraishi (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAshima Shiraishi has done Nordic Flower 8c (+) in Flatanger on her second go, which was put up as an 9a. From Instagram: "It was nice to take a break from my wet/hard project and to climb this 160ft beast!" She is talking about Thor's hammer 9a+.

The 14 year old has previously this year done one 9a+ and one 9a and actually, she has had the most impressive female tick list in the world for two years now. © Henning Wang/MadSkillz Media comments, "I have never seen a female climbing so naturally and making hard moves looks so easy. Her endurance is just amazing apart from her power.

 
 
9a by Jakob Kronberger (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger has done Klem Loskot's Intermezzo XY gelöst 9a in Plombergstein. Last year, when he did his first 8c+ at the same crag, he said: "I would like to climb Intermezzo. If I can't do it this year, I already know what to expect in 2015!"
Alhough he is just 14 years old, Jakob is already 179 cm tall. More info to come. The youngest to have reached 9a are Ashima Shiraishi and Adam Ondra who were both 13 years old at the time. © Salzburg.com

 
 
Ben Moon, almost 49, does Rainshadow 9a  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBen Moon, who turns 49 next week, reports on Twitter@

"Just climbed my 2nd 9a 25 years after my 1st. Rainshadow 4th ascent. FXXXXXX psyched!!!"

His first was Hubble at Raven Tor which he originally graded 8c+ back in 1990. Ben is mostly known for short powerful routes and for boulders, while Rainshadow, put up by Steve McClure and repeated by Adam Ondra and Jordan Buys, is a power-endurance monster route.

Steve has previously said, "Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

 
 
8C(B+) in few tries by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has spent some time in the Rocky Mountains National Park together with other boulder WC athletes. There, Adam needed just a few attempts to repeat White Noise 8C (B+) and flashed Bear toss 8B. © Chad Greedy (Instagram)

The double world champion from 2014, was #3 in the Boulder WC last weekend in Toronto. In the forthcoming WC stage in Vail (Colorado) he will compete together with 132 participants, which is about 50% more than last year.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Chilam Balam 9b  (10) Facebook
 

Seb Bouin, who has done several 9a and also 9a+', has done the third ascent of Bernabe Fernandez Chilam Balam 9b from 2003. Originally it was graded 9b+ which created a lot of controvercy and in 2011, Adam Ondra (Video) did the 80 meter super steep route and suggested 9b.

 
 
Ethan Pringle does Jumbo Love 9b  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDPM Climbing has the full story of Ethan Pringle making the first repeat of Chris Sharma's 80 metre long Jumbo Love 9b in Clark Mountain. Ethan had been projecting Jumbo Love since 2007 and here is a great video from 2013. © RV Project - Walker Emerson

In 2000, Ethan took the silver in the Youth World Championship and his best result out of seven Lead and Boulder WC's is #16. On rock he has done a handful of 9as and Biographie 9a+ in 2007, when he was the #1 in the 8a Combined ranking game thanks to three 8B+ boulders he also climbed that year.

Previously only six climbers have done 9b or harder (excluding boulder routes) out of which Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma with 12 and 8 are the only ones to have done more than one.

"WOW!!! Yesterday I climbed my ultimate lifetime dream route, the most bad-ass sport climb I’ve ever laid eyes on, Chris Sharma 's ‪#‎JumboLove‬! WOW. I can’t believe it’s over. I say that half in a literal sense because when I sent it, it was almost like an out of body experience that I can barley remember happening. My story on Jumbo Love spanned over eight years and involved every emotion I can think of: awe, excitement, love, admiration, longing, apathy, fear, frustration, anger, resignation, acceptance, and eventually, MOTHERFUCKEN GLORY!!!

 
 
Jonathan Siegrist does Era Vella 9a (8c) on his third try  (75) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist blogs about having sent Era Vella in Margalef on his third try. Chris Sharma made the FA in 2010 as a warm up and said it might be a soft 9a. Howwever, Jstar says many 8c's are much harder. He also says that the hardest sequence is like a 7A+ boulder problem.

"I climbed Era Vella and I had a lot of fun doing it. Grades are there to offer a foundation for difficulty but the more I climb the more I realize the plasticity of grading. I could comment on how I feel that Era is easy and make a list of routes graded 8c that are much harder and blah blah blah but what I'm after is not a grade, it is an experience. So never mind all that."

It should be mentioned that, over the years, 8a has received many comments like this by climbers who have done Era Vella but who wanted to remain anonymous. By checking the stats and all personal records including quick sends of Era Vella, 8c+ is probably a more correct grade for this world class 45m route.

Climbers should focus on the beauty of the climbs and "never mind all that (grades)", as Jstar explains in his blog and leave the grade to the media who are trying to report as correct news (grades) as possible.

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