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Forum: BEL / News / World Cup Puurs: Schubert & Kim Login in to contribute
World Cup Puurs: Schubert & Kim
OffLine 8a.nu
  2013-09-22 00:00:00    
1. Jain Kim KOR - Jakob Schubert AUT
2. Mina Markovic SLO - Sachi Amma JPN
3. Momoka Oda JPN - Sean McColl CAN
Complete results
Video of the final

Four out of the finalists fell on the same jump and Jakob commets on the IFSC streaming that nobody had planned to jump there but as he heard the crowd screaming he started to think that a jump is the solution. The tallest of the finalists, 173 cm, did the jump the fastest and said this was part of the reason why he won. Anybody who knows why Mina did not score a Top as this was what she did.
OffLine Jonas Haspeslagh
  2013-09-23 12:19:22    
Mina reached the time limit of 8 minutes two moves before she actually got to the top so that's probably why she didn't score a top.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2013-09-23 18:12:11    
Thanks Jonas. I will add it to the news. However, once again, it can not continue with this time thing without informing, the climbers, the internet crowd and the spectators. It is just very unprofessional and a very long way from the Olympic standard. I just also would like to say that I am very impressed about Schubert who took advantage of hearing the crowd from the iso and then did the dyno quicker then the rest of the gang. 
OffLine Jonas Haspeslagh
  2013-09-23 19:12:00    
Actually the speaker did mention she reached the limit while she was climbing but since the crowd was already rather enthousiastic about the fact that she was the first one coming close to the top, that information got a little bit lost in between all the cheering. However if you watch the video of the finals again you can see that Mina is a little disappointed because she also heard the speaker saying that she was climbing out of the time limit (or at least that is how I interpret her reaction when she's coming back down)
OffLine John Meget
  2013-09-23 20:37:17    
I thought Jakob did the jump static. He did it real easily, IIRC, with little effort or time spent, compared to the other guys.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2013-09-23 21:30:48    
But this was not something the speakers understood at that point.  I can not understand why there is warnings and count down which would make it much more thrilling for the spectators. What can possibly be the reason for taking out the 1 min warning they had previously? Just imagine how much more fun and actually fair to hear the speaker go 10 - 9 - 8 - 7 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2- 1... @ John: Yes, you are right it was not a jump more like a semi-dynamic move.
OffLine Herman
  2013-09-23 23:15:48    
The reason they took it out is simple. Because there is no way to consistenly communicate with the climbers about the time left. Thats why it's better for the jury not to be obliged to communicate about the time.
But it would better to communicate the time left in final to at least the public / live feed.
OffLine sloclimbing
  2013-09-24 08:50:53    
I have to remind you that we have time warning on IFSC. Not in Lead but in Boulder. Where we have a 1 minute time signal. I think that IFSC should
consider about 1 minute sound mark (similar to bouldering) to warn the
climber to speed up? It would be more professional. Check the reaction of Mina Markovic (IFSCwc Puurs) and Jain Kim (IFSCwc Imst) - with time out problem - http://wp.me/p34CmT-19p
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2013-09-24 11:03:00    
@ Herman: It is of course very simple to have a warning buzzer at the wall or even a big clock where the climber can check the time. Imagine having an Olympic final where suddenly several climbers are not allowed to continue climbing. It is easy to fix and a must.
OffLine Herman C.
  2013-09-24 12:37:00    
Jens,

there was a big clock in the center off the climbing wall, so at least all the spectators knew Mina was running out of time in the end. The speaker also clearly informed Mina, but maybe you dindn't hear it that well on the streaming.

This clock was also visible for the climbers, at least for three quarters of the route, maybe not the top section which was only reached by 2 female climbers.

But most climbers wear their own watch anyway.

The jumpcrux of the man's route was done semi-static by Shubert, the shorter guys had to jump.

H.
OffLine Paul Brouard
  2013-09-24 15:42:34    
Quite enjoyed the fact that there was an obvious crux section. Sachi was the only climber to commit with both hands: that looked to be a method even the shorter guys could have done. Competitors are reluctant to do dynamic moves in a lead comp but knowing when to be dynamic is part of good technique and need not be minimised so much. Super fun to watch too. As for the time limit, it does need to be re-thought. Is it even necessary in the final? I hate to see good climbers penalised for their slower climbing styles.