4 January 2006

Static/Dynamic - Muscle/Hold focus

Muscle or Hold Focus: Static optimization

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David Lama doing a static lock-off bicep muscle move.

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Technically, Mentally and Fysically challenged on a knee-drop.


Most climbers aim for a more dynamic style of climbing. However, most of the World Cup climbers are monsters when it comes to static muscle strength! Why this contradiction? Why and When should you strive for static and dynamic movements respectively? How does this relate to mental focus when you are about to do the crux move? The Idea for this article sprang from the problems that many climber friends have with long, overhanging and pumpy climbs. To them i always say:

- Don't focus on the next hold, but focus on flexing your muscles. You should concentrate on getting your lower hand as close as possible to your chest before reaching for the next hold with your upper hand. It is your arm muscles that will decide if you reach and stick to the next hold.

 Challenges

Fysical

Technical

Mental

 Static

High

 -

 -

Knee-drop

High

High

High

Dynamic

 -

 Low

High

The most complicated move in climbing is the knee-drop, which challenges you Fysically, Technically and Mentally. In order to do a knee-drop, you have to pass the critical point where the feet is pushing your center of gravity outwards before you achieve the inward position that will enable a long cross-over. The World Cup climbers have become experts on the complicated knee-drop move since the route setters often want to show the audience something spectacular.

 

 



 



 

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