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Forum: AUS / News / Climber of the year 2013 - Draft Login in to contribute
Climber of the year 2013 - Draft
OffLine 8a.nu
  2013-12-12 00:00:00    
Here is a draft of the 8a Climber of the year 2013. Please give feedback of who you want higher up and who we are missing. It has never been such a close race since for the Top-10 since we begun in 2000 even if Adam Ondra's #1 position is unchallenged.

1. Adam Ondra (1 also in 2012)
2. Anna Stöhr (17)
3. Alexander Megos (29)
4. Jakob Schubert (2)
5. Daniel Woods (3)
6. Ashima Shiraishi (8)
7. Ramon Julian Puigblanque (7)
8. Chris Sharma (19)
9. Jain Kim (23)
0. Jan Hojer, James Webb, Sasha Digulian, Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Mina Markovic, Akiyo Noguchi, Sean McColl, Alex Puccio, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet, David Graham, Sachi Amma, Kilian Fischhuber, Paul Robinson, Shauna Coxsey, Nalle Hukkataival, Gabri Moroni, Nina Caprez, Markus Bock, Mathieu Bouyoud, Nina Williams, Momoka Oda, Lukasz Dudek, Nicky van Bergen, Juliane Wurm
OffLine Andrew Murray
  2013-12-11 03:03:28    
How were these chosen?
OffLine Aidan Welby
  2013-12-11 04:10:05    
Jimmy Webb needs to be much higher!! His consistent progression and superior flash ability needs commendation and praise. I would say put him around 5 or 6.
OffLine Brian Antheunisse
  2013-12-11 05:22:38    
Jimmy needs to be higher. His dominance in comps paired with a transcendent flashing ability should put him maybe right behind DW. also, Megos deserves to be first or at least second in my opinion. Stohr was pretty incredible this year, but she didnt necessarily push any limits....like say, first 9a onsight!
OffLine Ben Mangelsdorf
  2013-12-11 06:19:46    
Jimmy higher up!!!! JWEB!
OffLine Andrew Murray
  2013-12-11 07:04:33    
My thoughts exactly
OffLine Andrew Murray
  2013-12-11 07:04:35    
My thoughts exactly
OffLine Andrew Murray
  2013-12-11 07:04:36    
My thoughts exactly
OffLine Andrew Murray
  2013-12-11 07:05:40    
OffLine Gibbon
  2013-12-11 08:06:09    
 How do you feel to compare comps climber and somebody who focuses on FA´s on rock? Plus not all of the candidates use or update a public scorecard or ticklist system yet they obviously climb hard under the this radar    Like Brian Antheunisse said; who has been pushing most his/her limits on top level?  ..Or who is the most media attention gathered climber this year? 
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-12-11 08:22:23    
To make a list like this is of course as hard as to make a list of the Athlete of the year or who is the most important business person in a country etc. We have tried to make a list in order to highlight some guys and we simply try to do it in a mixture of comp, sport, bouldering where of course FA's are of great importance. Surely, there are guys who prefer to stay in the radar who prefers to not make their ascents public. Beside Ondra I am sure you have as many opinions as you have climbers.
OffLine Gibbon
  2013-12-11 08:40:38    
 I like categories myself - 8a had them before too. . more the merrier  It might be a way for more climbers to get introduced and thus making it more interesting for the audience than the usual and predictable Ondra, Sharma, Comps people list Please correct me if these suggestions mentioned already are to be found
OffLine Mattias Braach-Maksvytis
  2013-12-11 09:07:27    
Haha @Andrew Murray's triple post. SO MANY THOUGHTS
OffLine Manuel Rodriguez
  2013-12-11 09:33:31    
My top 10: 1. Adam Ondra 2. Alexander Megos 3. Anna Stöhr 4. James Webb 5. Ashima Shiraishi 6. Gabri Moroni 7. Daniel Woods 8. Jakob Schubert 9. Jan Hojer 10. Jain Kim/Mina
OffLine pbla4024
  2013-12-11 09:52:34    
With due respect, sir, number 2) on your list should be Muriel Sarkany for her ground breaking ascent of Punt-X. It's is given variously as 9a/9a+ or hard 9a, never since Bimbaluna was such grade climbed by a girl. And unlike Bimbaluna, Punt-X is very steep indeed and quite short, not really suited for female climbers. Only comparable achievements by male climbers this year are 9a OS and 9b+ PP.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-12-11 10:07:20    
Thanks... We foremost value climbers doing different disciplines and multiple ascents including FA's have been added to the article.
OffLine Alexandre Zuttre
  2013-12-11 10:09:13    
True! Quite shocking that a performance like Muriel's goes unmentioned at all in such a ranking. Like I read above, is it a 'who gets more media coverage' ranking? My take on it is that such a ranking is biased in essence as you cannot compare apples and pears. Although, you can -kind of- compare achievements by how rare/uncommon they are. Based on that she would make the cut. Media coverage not.
OffLine 2big2boulder
  2013-12-11 10:16:00    
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-12-11 13:03:47    
Sure Muriel has been added and Webb has been placed higher. Thanks! I am somewhat surpriced that not more big mistakes were made to the list :)
OffLine Pedro Widmar
  2013-12-11 13:24:12    
Yeah, if we are talking achievements then first and foremost number 1 should be Ondra and number two should be Sharma. also number 3 should be Megos. I mean nobody else out there is doing 9b+ or onsighting 9a. And yes those three have done things more impressive that Sarkany. Just because she pushed the womens rating envelope doesnt mean it is more impressive then adding a new letter to climbing or pushing what can be done in one go. However I think Sarkany should be number four. Webb as well should be next because its simply incredible the amazing level this guy is flashing at. In my opinion he is leaving woods behind. so my list would look something like. 1)Ondra2)Sharma3)Megos4) Sarkany5)Webb....I like watching comps, but its one thing to climb plastic with mats under you, its another to go out and grab rock and establish new climbs. 
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2013-12-11 14:05:02    
You can't escape Ondra, Sharma, Sarkany, Megos and JWebb being top 5 (whichever the order), Pedro is right. Ondra for his 9b+s, the 9a OS (albeit soft he said) onsight and the comps (a gold and a silver without having trained too much for indoors). Sarkany was the second ever to climb the highest difficulty ever climbed by a woman: Josune had the 9a/+ of Bimbaluna, Muriel has that of Punt X (even Ondra said it's hard 9a). Coincidentally, Sharma should be in for the same reason: second person ever to climb the hardest difficulty ever climbed by a man. You can't have one but not the other. Megos for his time in Spain (not just 9a OS but also 9a and 9a+ 2nd go) and the Kalymnos comp (seriously destroyed a strong field). JWebb for equally amazing performances on rock and in comps.
OnLine Marco Zanone
  2013-12-11 14:49:45    
In my opinion should be at least add on the list Niccolò Ceria, the strongest Italian boulderer on the rock! 
OffLine Majkel
  2013-12-11 16:26:31    
As written above ->Ondra, Sarkany, Webb, Megos , Sharma should be in top5 whatever the criteria. I would give it to Jimmy as he probably inspired the most climbers by flashing multiple insanely hard boulders+winning the comps like the LS Legends or the US Psicobloc. Actually, Jimmy and Alex are the only newcomers to the top5 so I would consider them a bit more compared to veterans like Muriel, Adam and Chris so I'm a bit biasing towards the 'rookies' ;)
OffLine Simone Nogara
  2013-12-11 16:40:08    
Hukkataival should be higher... 
OffLine ps
  2013-12-11 17:08:50    
Woods should be in top-5 (if not in top3) in my opinion. I think nobody has previously done 6 8C boulders in one season.
OffLine Jesse Weiner
  2013-12-11 19:54:09    
They are only still called 8C because the beard hasn't flashed them yet.....   i think this years winner is obvious.....  
OnLine Kapo
  2013-12-12 07:21:41    
OffLine Arnoud Prinz
  2013-12-13 15:18:36    
Bouldering and sport climbing is very difficult to compare also for women and man. I like to see different categories for both men and women. Besides bouldering and sport climbing it would also be nice if there was a category for trad climbing. Then this sport gets more attention. So what is the top 3 of the 6 different categories? And it would be nice to know why they made a great performance.
OffLine Emmanuel
  2013-12-15 15:51:13    
Webb in the top 5 for sure. ..no idea why Jakob Schuber and Ramonet are even in the top10 this year..?
OffLine Arnoud Prinz
  2013-12-15 16:48:39    
man sport        Adam Ondra(2 9b+, 9a OS, 3 9a one day)    Alex Megos (first 9a OS, 9a+ second go)      Chris Sharma (9b+) J Ramon Julian Puigblanque (1 9a+, 5 9a, 3 wc) man boulderen   James Webb(2 8c,5 8b flash)  Daniel Woods (4 8b & 2 8c fa)  Jacob Shubert (sec.WC Boulder & Lead)  woman sport   Muriel Sarkany (9a/+) Ashima Shiraishi (2 8c+) Sasha Digiulian? (3 8c and 8c MP bella vista) woman boulderen  Anna Stohr (2 8B, WC) Ashima Shiraishi (2 8b) Shauna Coxsey (8b) If i have to make a top 10. 1. Adam Ondra 2. Anna Stöhr 3. Alexander Megos 4. Muriel Sarkany 5. Chris Sharma 6. James Webb 7. Daniel Woods 8. Ashima Shiraishi 9. Jacob shubert 10.Ramon Julian Puigblanque
OffLine Pedro Widmar
  2013-12-30 15:55:42    
All other conversations aside, How is sharma not in the top 2 having been one of two people in the world to climb 9b+????????? Can anyone debate this? Can anyone other than ondra and sharma climb this? Come on guys, there can be other merit based conversations, but the top two spots seem pretty darn obvious. 
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-12-30 17:19:15    
Sure if you count who has done the hardest redpoint, Chris Sharma is second but we have choosen to base the list mainly on multiple ascents in multiple disciplines.
OffLine pbla4024
  2013-12-30 19:55:03    
And the most important of those disciplines seems to be "attracting the media attention".
OffLine joshua griep
  2013-12-30 21:36:12    
@arnoud prinz i think jacob is not 3rd because he was only second in bouldering and lead is another categorie ;)i thnik dima or jan hojer should be 3rd because dima won the worldcup and jan is 2. in the 8a ranking ;)
OffLine Carlo Traversi
  2013-12-31 02:18:20    
Can you please take my name off this list and at least add Tommy Caldwell?  If you are recognizing success in multiple disciplines then the Top 10 is pretty far off.  Just a thought.