30 November 2010

Change/Improve Climbing Ability

How to change/improve your climbing ability 
Training/Jens: Climbers typically train by doing routes/boulders. That means we optimize our strong points, but don't spend enough time on our weak points.

95% of our climbing is within our comfort zone: copying moves we are already almost experts at. This makes it impossible to make any real progress.

Let us say your main weaknesses are that you have problems climbing dynamically, fast and aggressively, which is true for 90% of us. Spend your next three sessions working on these points, mainly on easier routes. You will notice a significant difference in your climbing approach.

It is all about doing 100+ moves in a different style. Your brain and body will change into a new mode, making it possible to do harder climbs :-)
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