Paul Robinson asks...

Michele Caminati answers

Martina Cufar - Natalija Gros - David Graham - Joe Kinder - Paul Robinson -

Relay interview Paul Robinson vs. Michele Caminati
Can you tell us about climbing in ?

Well, I think it’s just… climbing! Like in any other part of the world, trying to get best fun out of it; and I do. The climbing community in is not so big, and you feel sometimes like being part of a big family. In comps, events or even when you go climbing on rock you often meet the same people coming from all over the country. But I cannot tell everything about climbing in as I do only boulder in a country full of beautiful crags and I certainly miss a lot…

Your favorite places in ? What makes these areas your favorite?

First of all , it’s like my second home. I started climbing there when I was 16 (It’s 6 years up to now) and I usually go there at least twice a year, as soon as I manage to have a two weeks holiday. There I can find almost everything I’m searching in climbing at the moment: huge, rounded balls of fine sandstone surrounded by a very peaceful ambience. It’s amazing the variety of shapes, holds and styles you can find there, and I like that you have to climb with the whole body, stick on the rock using every single muscle. It is actually quite tiring!! I do like also Swiss granite and it’s tiny crimps, it helped me a lot in getting stronger over the last two years giving me lots of projects, motivation and more finger strength. One of my favourite places is Magic Wood, because there I feel in touch with nature and it helps me recover from everyday urban life. Beside that I didn’t travel much; I’m sure I haven’t seen a lot of beautiful areas which I would like, for example Albarracin in Spain or British “gritstone” (I just climbed in Stanage two days and had a very positive feeling). 

Have you ever climbed in ? If yes, where?  How does North America compare to in problems and people?

I can’t say much, I only went to Hueco Tanks for 20 days two years ago and it has been an amazing experience. First of all I liked the fact everything looked so different from usual European landscape and lifestyle, the really first days it seemed like living inside a movie. Coming to the problems… could they be bad ??! Not really technical but surely among the best I’ve ever seen in that kind of style, on granite is difficult to find such holds on steep overhang. People looked to me really friendly, excited and helpful; not so individualists as sometimes we are here in . There was a good ambience at the Rock Ranch, with people joking all together next to the fire sharing their climbing experiences of the day. You felt part of a community: for example in Europe it’s usually harder to find people that stop to spot and incite you no matter what you’re climbing on V0 or V14…

 

How would you describe a perfect day of climbing?

Wake up at 8 am, clear, fresh and windy outside. A big coffee with lots of bread, butter and jam (an hour for digestion!) and straight under a wonderful hard problem I’ve tried for a long time. Little warm up and then of course send it! (If it has to be a “perfect” day…) Then climbing the whole afternoon with friends on -no matter what difficulty- but new, high and amazing blocs, till no skin remains. In the evening a big barbecue all together with every kind of meat, vegetables and a super Belgian ale to celebrate the day!

Can you share with us a funny experience in your life?

Don’t know if it is really funny but once, when I was only 3, we were waiting in a queue due to a public feast just outside a small village in when I suddenly decided to jump off the car to start running down the streets. It happened that a car ran over me and when my mother saw my arm sticking out behind the wheel nearly fainted. I don’t remember anything of the episode, but I was told that the day after I recovered from hospital I was actually quite happy and proud of what happened and I kept telling everybody pointing at my wounds: “Look, a car run over me!”. I was really excited.

I notice that you do not have any routes listed on 8A.  Do you have a preference for bouldering? And why?

Here are many reasons: the first is that bouldering gives me much more than rope climbing because I like to go beyond my limits, to manage to do a move the month before I just couldn’t, and moves on a route are generally much easier; I like trying and trying till I achieve perfect balance or sensations and I find it complicated doing it tied to the rope, I always end up hanging somewhere and pulling the rope to return in position… Then there is an aesthetical aspect: I like clean, solid, smooth rock with barely no holds, not one more than you need to pass; I like rounded lines and mantles, and don’t want even to think about chipped and painful pockets. But I know there is full of beautiful routes I would really enjoy; the fact is that I often don’t find any climbing partner to go with. My friends usually don’t climb on the same things I try and it’s much easier to move the pads a few meters away than having to set up two different routes! At least I can always do boulder alone, and sometimes it can be quite relaxing.

Do you have a favorite type of boulder problem?  Are you working on any projects and what can you tell us about them?

I like most slightly overhanging prows with slopers, heelhooks, and anything that makes you work in compression, but usually every kind of pure and clean line makes me crazy… if I just see some pictures or a movie of such a line it becomes immediately a new project in my mental tick-list. I’m not a great fan of pure roofs, as the variety of moves is usually quite limited, but sometimes they can be fun. I’m working on a lot of projects, as when I visit a new boulder area I usually try all the lines that inspire me, so I have my projects in Magic Wood, in Chironico, Bleau, Val Di Mello, Hueco… in almost every place I visited I have something to send. This year I’ve tried a lot Dreamtime in Cresciano, which is one of the best lines I’ve ever seen and is really a personal “dream”, but the weather has been awful (i.e. too much sunshine and hot!) and I’m starting to get tired of falling every time because I’m sweating… never mind, next winter I’ll be super motivated again!

I like to brush and open new boulders too and of course I have some beautiful projects near my home, it’s even more satisfactory to open a new line where no one did know how to pass and even if it was possible; after it becomes like a part of you.

Do you like to compete in competitions? Please explain why you do or do not like competing?

Competing is really strange to me. I find it really motivating, but I know I’m not born for competitions, I’m usually too agitated, not nervous, but I’ can’t convey all my emotions in the right way, I’m not able to give the best of me under pressure… so I start making easy mistakes of reading and so on. But it doesn’t mean I cannot improve! It’s just another aspect of climbing, the one that makes it really a “sport”, a competing event, otherwise it looks more to me like a “way of life”. There could not be a really objective ranking in outside climbing; there are only people who have or haven’t done a specific problem, who did or didn’t open great lines, and of course who have or have not the time and possibility to travel and climb. Keeping that in mind maybe would solve a lot of arguing about grading and performances. For sure competing is motivating to me, but if I had to do only that, I know I would give up climbing sooner or later. On the other hand I’d be quite happy if I could travel and climb all the time, but could not take part in any competition.

Who are your climbing partners and how do they motivate you to send?

There are not many climbers near the town where I live and just a few of them are true boulder lovers. My friends usually are about 30 years old or more, they work all the day and many of them are married with children… no one has all the spare time I do as a student, and usually we manage to meet and climb only during the weekend in our local areas which we develop thanks to our passion. It’s funny that actually both my parents do climb (they started years after me!!) and we share the same friends, so I can say my motivation comes from this little ambience, but I usually have to travel alone. Fortunately while travelling I got to know a lot of strong and passionate climbers and I’ve become friend to many of them despite the distance. It’s always a pleasure if it happens that we meet somewhere to climb together, being it a competition, a meeting or better a vacation.

Training. Can you tell us about your training and why you are so strong?

I try to keep my training various in order to enjoy it more and… I climb a lot! Usually I alternate indoor bouldering, campus board and a few weights to rock climbing, best if on different kinds of rock, in order to change holds and sensations. I always do some stretching and try to listen to my body to decide whether I need more training or just resting, that’s the real question! (Don’t know why but I tend to consider mainly the first option…)

Why do you keep an 8a.nu scorecard? I have noticed that in the that 8a.nu has become very controversial in grading and people challenging sends and grades, is this the same in ?

There are different ways to look at 8a.nu. I use and like it mainly for three reasons: it has become one of the best sources for news and articles over the internet, it is a useful database where I can keep trace of all my ascents, and most important of all is the fact that through it I can contact other climbers, ask them about their climbing activity and let everybody know about mine. For example you can askgive betas or just information about a problem you don’t know or that you opened for the first time. It can be even a way to arrive at the only reasonable definition of the “grade” of a problem: the average among the opinions of repeaters, and not the dictate of a single person; just let know what you think and time will decide. I’m quite tired of wild over grading or downgrading, grading is not mathematics. I think that there is even a bad way to use 8a.nu: the ranking is ok if it is used just for fun but must not be emphasized too much or become a purely promotional aspect. That would increase arguing even more and I think we have something better to talk about. There can be no real ranking, if you want it look at competitions, otherwise just climb, have fun, and maybe promote your own activity if you think it will help others to feel as good as you felt. The best climber is always the one who enjoys it more, isn’t it?

A Peruvian glacier melting.                   Pictures: SCANPIX

 Our earth's climate is changing, largely because of human activities, and during the last decades we have seen some dramatic consequences of this transformation. In Chamonix, for example, melting glaciers are causing the collapse of entire rock faces, and in Australia there are areas so dry that people have to recycle toilet water. Although disastrous to the people and animals affected, events such as these ones may function as an eye-opener and increase public environmental awareness.

 As for many other activities, climbing is very closely linked to nature and in a way we climbers depend on nature to supply our need, climbable rock. However, climbing is not always done in accordance with nature and inevitably climbing impacts on the environment. Adding to this, climbing is an industry where we require certain equipment and clothes to facilitate our way up the steep rock faces. At all ends there is a cost and the ultimate cost is often that paid by the environment.

 With the growing of climbing as a sport the environmental aspects of climbing need to be highlighted. The climbing industry, as well as individual climbers, have to become aware of how different activities may change the environment and what can be done do to slow these changes down. We are not alone in this ambition and many climbing companies have added the environment to their list of priorities. The idea here is to increase the good will of those climbing companies that have a clear environmental policy and can demonstrate concrete environmental initiatives. We hope this will encourage more companies to take actions against environmental change.We invite companies to email us at [email protected] to tell us about their environmental initiatives.

I woke up at 4.30 in Malmö after less than four hours sleep due to Dosage 4. At 10.30 I am in the Mammut booth showing the dummy of the 8a yearbook and ask whether we can double up to 10 000 copies. The responsible person is not there but I get a preliminary OK, a smile and - Good luck! Next, is Lafouche at Petzl, who looks tired but happy after yet another ISPO party. No money at all but after he has checked the dummy - Ok, go for it!

I am running around like a lunatic and after six hours and 25 spontaneous meetings I have got OK from:

5.10, Stealth, Ocún, Rock Pillars, Millet, Singing Rock, NorthFace, BEAL, La Sportiva, Prana, NEPA and another 3 - 6 companies will send an ad confirmation in the end of the week. (We are mostly talking small ads like a symbolic gesture, like the funny NEPA guy who checks it out for 60 seconds... - OK!)

The only booked appointment I had was with Prana. Midways in my presentation, I get interrupted - Do you print on recycled paper? We might sponsor the extra cost! Obviously they liked the dummy directly but I was really engaged by their immediate thoughts.

I fly back via Copenhagen and I go to bed 2.30 in Göteborg. I actually dream about recycled paper and first thing I call the printer who luckily tells me that they are one of few environmental certified printers in Sweden. Next, I am calling Chief-Editor, who is a doctor in marine biology,  and we decide to dedicate the last page in the book to the environment and access etc from a community perspective.

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1. Our grading scale of difficulty measures the amount of effort and training that is needed for the climbers to do a route/boulder.

2. The grading scale was established many years ago when the climbing population consisted of a very low percentage of females and juniors. The grades were, thus, based on the measured difficulty for the adult men population.

3. The grades have been chosen on the average measured difficulty for the climbing population where height and finger size often give different conditions.

4. Reachy vertical climbs will mostly be measured more difficult for shorter climbers.

5. Steep climbs with small pockets and edges will mostly be measured more difficult for bigger climbers.

Today, it seems like female and juniors (shorter and smaller fingers)

Euro 25.77

8a member Steve McClure - Pic Simon Carter

Adrian Berry and Steve McClure have written a new training book - Sportclimbing+ and it is published by Rockfax so you can be sure that the layout is very good. The book is very practical and covers all levels from beginners to advanced climbers. This is of course both good and bad. But after having read it twice I understand that also the 'easy' chapters includes nice tips for 'old dogs', who may think they know it all.

 

 However, even if the book includes 10 pages on power and endurance training, I would have liked more theory and practical advice on this subject that are of practical interest for the average 8a climber. (The bible for this is still - Performance Rock climbing, which was written about 12 years ago by some Germans.)  

The best thing about the book is that you can randomly open any page and get into the subject. This is not a book where you have to start on the first page and work your way through it. There are hundreds of pictures and drawings. Very nice and truly recommended and 8a.nnu gives it a hard 7c+ grade. 

1.      Patxi Usobiaga -80 Spain

#1 WC Lead: 24 12 2 5 2 3 1 2 2 4

#1 8a Lead: 12 977; 8c OS, Pata Negra,
8b+ OS (6), 8c> (23)
#1 Rock Master Serre Che.

Patxi is the 8a climber of the year in the Lead World Cup, he took a superior win. He won the 8a Lead ranking, including six 8b+’s onsight and a total of 23 routes 8c and harder.

Patxi has been competing actively since 1994. He was #2 in the World Champ 2003 and 2005. www.patxiusobiaga.com , Black Diamond, Interview by Ignacio

2.      Chris Sharma -81
9b DWS, Es Pontas,
9a+ , Siurana
#1 Petzl Roc Trip: Millau & Kalymnos

He won the YWC in 1995 and at 15 he was #2 in the World Championship. In 2001 he won a Boulder WC (but was disqualified due to a test) just days after he had done the endurance challenge Realiztion, 9a+. Petzl, Evolve, Prana. Interview page 34.

3.      David Lama -90 Austria
#2 WC lead: 2 1 9 9 6 6 1 1
#1 European Lead Champ
#24 8a Lead: 11 900; 8c+, Biograpie, 8a OS MP, Leaning tower 400m, Yosemite

Image being 15, sitting in the iso in the WC debut together with the celebrities. Nervous!? Not at all. You make it to the finals and you up in the podium for the silver. The next WC Lead, you win and same story in the European Champion. When you try a WC boulder, you win it directly. Wake up, it is not a dream. David comes from the great community. Peter Habler has been his trainer since he was six! David’s grand father was a nepalian Lama (Priest). This wonder boy has been onsighting 8a’s since he was 11.  The only debacle in 2006 was that actually two guys beat him in the Youth World Champs.

A very important role-model for the youngsters, doing it all; Routes, Boulders, DWS, Big wall and comps! www.david-lama.com Mammut
 
 

4.      Angela Eiter -86
#1 WC Lead: 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 9 1 2
8b OS, Skyline, Bürs

One of the smallest competitors, and . 28 lead victories in the WC since 2005 she won the World Champs. www.angelaeiter.com , Edelweiss, Top30, Vaude.
 

5.      Charlotte Durif -90
#1 European Lead Champ
#6 WC Lead: 5 8 5 6 12 6 8 8 22 5
#1 Youth World Champ
#1 8a Lead: 11 811; 8a OS> (14)

She has been the best route climber since she was 14. First 8a onsight at 13 and totally 22 OS 8a+>. Even the French questioned her ascents in the beginning but now they seems to be proud. She is trained by her father. Prana, Petzl, BEAL

”The routes that I enjoy the most are the long ones, 40 - . They are like journeys without an end. They allow me to balance my rhythm and to enjoy the climb. I've always climbed near, or at my peak level and I prefer onsights. I don't like to systematically practice a route because that requires little creativity. A cliff isn't like an essay - they aren't simply technical exercises with rules. Each section of each route is like a new discovery.  I love to try solving a climb and imagine how it should be done, but regretfully there are areas where I'm almost too comfortable: , Ceuse,  I'm a bit sorry that I've started to grow out of these areas.”
 

6.      Tomas Mrazek -82 Czech Rep.
#3 WC Lead: 3 4 5 3 10 6 5 1 3 13
#6 WC : 3 7 3 4 5
#11 8a Lead: 11 163; 8b+ OS, Desafiado a
#1 Dima Rock Master

”Climb, climb, Climb!” The key to success from Climber of the year 2004. #1 World Lead Champ 2005. Tomas often goes to to train and he is coached by his girlfriend, Helena Lipenska, #11 in the 8a lead ranking. www.tomasmrazek.cz Ocun Rock Pillars

7.      David Graham -81
#2 8a : 11 272; Four 8B+’
#7 8a Lead: 12 323; 9a A Muerte, Siurana

- I am a robot. I just climb-climb-climb.

David has, more or less, been the combined 8a ranking leader 2002 – 07. His scorecard has 400 000 hits! Dave is one of the few guys being humble and brave to downgrade. Without Dave, grades would have been inflated. David has so much positive and friendly energy so he pushes everyone at the crag towards personal best. Climbs 250+ days a year, however in 2006, he had a finger injury for more than 4 months. Boyfriend of Layla Mammi, #4 in the 8a boulder rankings. Petzl, Prana BEAL, 5.10
 

8.      Ramon Puigblanque -81 Spain
#1 Overall winner Arco
#5 WC Lead: 7 22 6 1 1 20 4 4 3 5
#2 8a Lead: 8c OS, Iron man r2, Rodellar

The smallest of the competitors, and but he got long arms down to his knees. He won the European Champ in 2004 and were in lead at worlds 2005, but he was disqualified in the final as he was late to the iso! Top30, Tenaya, Fixe.

9.      Jorg Verhoeven -85
#6 WC Lead: 4 3 4 2 9 3 4 6 3
#6 8a Lead: 12 359; 9a Sanski par extension

One of the biggest competition guys, and . Since several years, he lives and trains together with the Austrians in Insbruck. Youth World Champion twice: 2002 & 2004. He was #2 WC lead 06 he was only 24 points for copying this. Boyfriend of Katharina Saurwein, #19 in this list. www.jorgverhoeven.com , Edelweiss.

 

10. Josune Bereziartu -72 Spain
8b(+) OS Hidrofobia, Montsant
8c El Percal, Tres ponts, 8c Mafias El Convento, 8b+ Aurrera Bolie, 8b+ White Wedding, 8b+ Bad Man, Multi Pitches etc.


Josune has done three 9a routes including Bimbaluna, 9a+ in St Loup. In the 8a all time high ranking she is actually #10 and she should be one of the best female athletes challenging the men in a physical sport. He is and some . She stopped competing in 2000 after comparatively little success in Lead. However, she won one of the two boulder WC she tried. www.josunebereziartu.com
 

11. Kilian Fischhuber -83 Austria
#2 WC Boulder: 2 1 4 3 2 3 1
9a Action Directe, Frankenjura
Three 8c+/9a
8B+ Unendliche Geschichte, Averstal

Excellent combination of route climbing outdoors and comps indoors. #1 WC boulder and #2 in world Boulder Champ 2005. “My usual programme consisted mainly of short up or downs (not more than 6 moves). I also trained negative dynamic and intramuscular coordination with twice my weight. One of my exercises works as follows: I hang on the board, armes half bent, my girlfriend Verena on my back. I go slowly down until my armes are almost stretched and then I say: "go", she lets go abbruptly and I try to speed up as fast as possible and as high as possible.”

” I think the key to success is to keep your motivation high. You have to learn to see the positive aspects of drawbacks and to make the best out of triumphs. Don't train with the same system too long and try to go on the rock as often as possible. Climbing a route or a boulder on rock is always different and it will never get boring. Set yourself reachable goals and be happy with your achievements. I know that this statement doesn't go into detail very much but it is not easy or useful to make a comment on how someone can improve when I don't know him or her. For better tips I should talk to the climber personally. You find my e-mail address on www.kilian-fischhuber.at Don't hesitate to ask! Top30, Vaude, Edelweiss, is much harder, then no grading!”

12. Maja Vidmar -85 Slovenia
#4 WC Lead: 6 13 6 3 2 4 3 5 5 1
#3 European Champ
#2 8a Lead: 11 420; 8c Osapski pajek Misja pec

Leads the Slovenian (4 million inhabitants) female team with four girls in Top- WC Lead. www.majavidmar.com

13. Dani Andrada -75
#3 8a Lead: 20 FA 8c>
#6 8a : 8A’s> (34)

Mr 8a, Mr 9a and Mr FA. Dani has done over 1000 8a> out of which several houndreds FA. Combines endurance routes with powerful boulders. Climbs 300+ days per year.  Beard grows world record! Party animal – ‘Daila, could you please escort me to the bar!’ He was actively doing WC’s between 1992 – 2001. Speed World Champ in 1997. He has won three WC boulders and in 2001 he was #3 overall. In Lead his best result was #5. Boreal, Petzl, BEAL.

14. Natalija Gros -84
#5 WC lead: 8 4 3 3 6 2 2 6 4 3
#2 WC Lead +
8c Strelovod Misja pec
#1 Dima Rock Master
 

15. Daniel Woods -89 USA
#3 8a Boulder: 8B+’ (5), 8A’s> (49)
#4 8a Combined: 8c+, Necessary evil

Comments www.woodsfamilyclimbs.com The North face, , Petzl, Sterling.   

16. Jerome Meyer -81
#1 WC Boulder: 1 3 2 1 1 2 8
 

17. Sandrine Levet -82 France
#2 WC Lead: 2 2 7 3 4 1 4 1 3 4
#2 European Champ
#1 Overall winner Arco

Sandrine is a true competition climber who has won international comps since 1997. She won the world boulder champs in 2003 when she also was #1 in WC Boulder and #2 WC Lead.
 

18. Adam Ondra -93 Chech Rep.
#3 8a Lead: 9a Martin Krpan, Misja Pec

Probably the best 13-year-old athlete in the world, and . Adam did his first 8a OS at 10. He has no trainer and mostly he trains indoor in a small nearby boulder gym or in his his room, barefoot! ‘Otherwise the wall would be totally black and my Mum very angry! When you put on the shoes, the holds feel bigger!’ Saltic, Singing Rock,

19. Olga Bibik -76
#1 WC Boulder: 1 1 2 13 9 1 4

Olga won the Youth Camps in 1992 and in 1993 she won in Speed. In 2004 she won the European Lead Champ. She has been doing some 50+ UIAA comps.

20. Dai Koyamada -76
#1 8A : 8C’s FA (3)

#1 in the 8a All time combined ranking. and . He tried the comp scene 1997 – 2000 and his best is #4 WC Lead.
 

21. Edu Marin -85
#7 WC Lead: 12 16 1 7 3 8 12 3 8 7
9a+

22. Sean McColl -87
#1 Youth Champ: Lead & Speed
#20 WC Lead: 11, 33, 18, 9
#22 8a Lead: 11 948; 8c’s (4)
#10 8a : 10 768; 8B’s (2)

World Youth Champion five times! Sean did his first 8b+ at 12. - I owe all my training tips to Andrew Wilson and Mike Doyle.  They've trained me into an athlete, they put together our programs, and guided me to success.  I don't think any athlete, no matter how good they are, shouldn't have some sort of coach. Another reason to his success could be his piano lessons six times a week. Petzl, 5.10.
 

23. Caroline Ciavaldini -85
#3 WC Lead: 2 6 2 7 3 5 6 2 2 10
#2 Serre Chevalier
8b OS, A bout de suffle, Peillon
 

24. Christian Core -74 Italy
#4 WC Boulder: 3 10 7 5 7 11 6
8B+ FA, Beautiful mind, Albarracin
8C FA, Una Kimera, Barbara
8C New Base line Magic Woods

At the international comp scene since 1994. World Champ in 2003.

25. Martina Cufar -77
#2 8a Lead: 11 428; 8c Vizija, Misja Pec
#16 WC Lead: 12 20 36 11 18 12
#1 Petzl Roc Trip: Millau & Kalymnos

She has participated in 80+ UIAA comps. Winner of the World Champs in 2001 and part of the reason for the Slovenian female wonder. Now four younger girls have out competed here at the comp scene. Employed by the army to climb! www.martinacufar.com 5.10, Petzl, BEAL.
 

26. Barbara Bacher -82
#8 WC Lead: 15 22 4 8 8 10 9 11 13 14
#9 WC : 7 8 11 8 15 13 13
#6 European Lead Champ
#7 8a Lead: 10 963; 8a+ OS, Bon vitage

www.barbara-bacher.at Mammut
 

27. Anna Stöhr -88
#3 WC Boulder: 4 3 1 2 4 11
#2 Youth Champs; Lead & Speed
#1 Arco

www.anna-stoehr.at Mammut
  

28. Flavio Crespi -80
#3 WC Lead: 1 8 7 4 4 4 2 8 3 13

A true indoor climber who does most of his training at home in his mini-gym.

29. Yuji Hirayama -69 Japan
#1 in 35+ List

30. Katharina Saurwein -87
#1 Youth Champion
#1 European Youth: 1 1 1 1
#13 WC Lead: 16 31 12 9 9 6
#8 8a Lead: 10 944; 8a+ OS, Shopska salat, St Trinity.

www.katharina-saurwein.com Mammut.
 

31. Rosta Stefanek -77 Czech Rep.
#4 8Ab combined ranking: 9a+ Bimbaluna, St Loup and 8B+’s (3)
 

32. Emily Harrington -86 USA
8b+ The 7 P.M. show Rifle
#1 Serre Chevalier
#1 Nort America Lead
#5 WC Dresden

Emily was second in the World Lead Champs in 2005.
 

33. Alex Chabot -81 France
8b+/c OS, Directa Challenger, Argentina
9a FA, Abyss, Gorges du Loup

The best male competition climber ever who has been suspended by the French federation due to a sponsor dilemma. Strange thing is that his Federation has twice extended his penalty, meaning that he will have no chanses of winning also in 2007.

Alex has 23 victories in WC Lead from 1999 – 2005. www.alexchabot.com

34. Jody Hansen -78 USA
#1 8A Boulder: 8A’s (3)

35. Olha Shalagina -83
#4 European Lead Champ
Two times second in WC Boulders
#1 Dima Rock Master

36. Cedric Lachat -84
#8 WC Lead: 6 13 3 10 5 8 7 2
#2 European Lead Champ
8b+ OS, Nobody is perfect, Bürs
 

37. Juliette Danion -82
#2 WC Boulder: 3 4 1 14 1 3 26

38. Iker Pou -77 Spain
8c+ FA MP, Lurgorri, Picu
9a Begi Putuan
8B+ Cave Reve, Grampians
8c FL, Alpenismo desportivo, Cuenca
Several 8b’s OS and Big Walls

www.pouanaiak.com Tenaya.
 

39. Dave McLeod -78
8c+ T, Rhapsody,

New world record for Trad after 20 - whippers

40. Evgeny Krivosheytsev -69 Russia
#1 Ice WC Romania
#2 Ice WC Norway
#10 8a Lead: 12 254; 8c+’ (5) Tendon, Cassin, 5.10.

Evgeni is the only competition climber who has been on a WC podium on all events; Speed, Lead, and Ice.
 

41. Tino Lois -74
#5 8a Lead: 12 575; 9a/+ Definicion, Terradets www.tinolois.net

42. Michele Caminati -85
#6 WC Boulder
#8 8a : 10 905; 8B’s (8)
Nepa Climbing, E9.

43. Klemen Becan -82 Slovenia
#9 8a Lead: 12 315; 8c+ FA Trip Millau
#16 WC Lead, #5 European Champ Petzl, BEAL

44. Paul Robinson -87
#6 8A : 11 005; 8A’s> (65)
Prana, 5.10, Organic.

45. Ethan Pringle -86
8b(+) FL, Dragonian Devil, Kalymnos
8c(+) Just do it, Smith Rock
8B(+) Slash face, Hueco
8B Buttermilker
#1 Salt lake Boulder

46. Ines Papert -74 Austria
8a+/b MP,  Camillotto Pellesier
#1 WC Ice

The world’s best female Ice climber since 2005, she won Bouldering World Champ and got a silver in Lead.

47. Kinga Ociepka -86 Polen
#4 8a Lead: 11 141; 8c Gemenis

Kinga is the youngest female 8c climber ever.  Youth World Champ: 2000 & 2001. Marmot, 5.10.

48. Cristophe Zehani -74
#9 8a Lead: 12 265; 8c+’ (3)

49. Fred Nicole -70
8C Terremer, Terre di Sienne
8B+ Whitness the Fitness

One of the boulder pioneers. Fred put up his first 8B in 1992 and Dreamtime 8B+ in Cresciano. #6 in the WC 1991.

50. Andreas Bindhammer -76
#12 WC Lead: 13 10 11 7 12 14 12
#1 Lead
9a Abysse, Gorges du Loup
www.andreas-bindhammer.de Edelrid, Mad Rock, Master range.

51. Tyler Landman -90
8B+ Dreamtime, 8B’s> (12)
Prana, metolius, 5.10.

52. Chris Webb-Parsons -85
#6 8Aa combined; 8c+ Motor Pussy
Scarpa, Black Diamond.

53. Garth Miller -75
#14 8a boulder: 10 598; 8A+’ (5)
#8 8Aa Combined: 8c’s (4)
Berghaus, Scarpa, Edelrid, Kong

54. Magnus Midtbö -88
#17 8a Lead 12 032: 8c+ Alien carnage
#17 WC Lead: 48 22 18 12 11 10 16
#1 Euro Cup: 1 1 5 1

55. Said Belhaj -81
#16 8a Lead: 12 105; 8c+ & 8b’s OS
Interview page 58. www.saidbelhaj.com Performance, BEAL, Petzl, , Maxim, Hilleberg.

56. Bernard Schwaiger -75  
#7 8A : 11 001; FA Pipe Dream, Saalachtal
ww.schwigerbrothers.com Nihil, 5.10.

57. Fabian Christof -78
8c+’ (3), 8B+’ (2)
Moon, Petzl, 5.10.

58. Markus Bock -79
8B(+) Forget about life for a while
9a(+), ?, Frankenjura

59. Andrea Szekely -89
#5 8a lead: 11 005; 8b Last of bohicans
#6 8A : 7c+ Swiss crisp mix
Ropegun,

60. Daila Ojeda -84 Spain
#7 8a Lead: 10 980; 8b’s (6)
#3 Spanish Lead Champ

The only one that looks like a ballet dancer and talks and laughs while she does the cruxes of 8b’s. Girlfriend of #12, Dani Andrada.

1.      David Lama -90

2.      Aam Ondra -93 Czech Rep

3.      Charlotte Durif -90

4.      Daniel Woods -89

5.      Katharina Saurwein -87

6.      Sean McColl -87

7.      Anna Stöhr -88

8.      Tyler Landman -90   

9.      Magnus Midtboö -88

10. Andrea Szekely – 89

Info on above in senior list
 

11. Eric Lopez -91
#1 World Champ
#2 Euro Cup: 4 1 14 1
#9 8a lead: 11 585; 8c+ Minas Tiriht
#10 8a : 9480; 8A’s (4)
 

12. Johanna Ernst -92
#1 World Champ
#1 Euro Cup: 1 1 1 1 1

Johanna is training in Insbruck with all the best and sometimes she even out climbs the WC winner, Angela Eiter.

13. Paul Robinson -87
#55 in senior list

14. Chloe Graftiaux -87 Belgium
#6 WC Boulder: 5 16 6 11 5 5 14
#4’s World Youth Champ Lead & Speed
#2 Euro Cup: 2 2 3 5 4
#4 WC Lead Puurs
Two Speed Euro Cup victories

One of the very few who can perform on the highest standard both in Spee, Boulder and Lead Comps. World Youth Champ in 2002.
 

15.  Jon Cardwell -89
8c Longfish and 8b+’ (7)
8B+ The Saadhu and 8B’s (8)
#4 World Youth Champ
Mad Rock, Flashed, Sickle.

16.   Matt Fultz -91
#3 8a boulder: 10 406; 8A+’ (3)
#3 8a combined: 8b+’ (3)

One of the most active 8a bloggers with brave opinions on both grade and ethics. He has put up most of the hard boulders in . Metolius,

17. Akiyo Noguchi -89
#2 World Champ
#9 WC
#1 Asia , #2 Lead

18. Martin Stranik -90 Czech Rep
#2 Euro Cup: 4 2 2 1
#5 World champ
#3 8a Lead: 11 957; 8b OS Lucky Luke
#5 8a combined: 7C+’s (5)

One of the biggest juniors (). Trains together with Adam Ondra.
Saltic, Singing Rock.

19. Jakob Schubert -90
#1 Euro Cup: 2 1 1 1 2
#2 World Champ
#11 8a lead: 11 242; 8b+ OGM
Mammut.
 

20. Gabriele Moroni -87 Italy
#7 World Youth Champ
#5 WC Boulder Bulgaria
8c+ Ba, ba black sheep, 8c’s (5)
8B best of you, 8A’s> (14)

World Youth Champ in 2002 and #3 in European senior Bouldering Champ at 2004! Moon, 5.10, Black Diamond.

21. Anma Sachi -90
#1 World Champ
#18 WC Lead: 10 26 8 7
 

22. Gabor Szekely -90
8b+’s, Zulu, God’s own stone
8A+’ (8)

 

23. Silvie Rajfova -89 Czech Rep
#10 8a Lead: 10 920; 8b+ Marioneta
#26 WC Lead: 14 17 18 21
#20 WC : 7 18 15 15
#5 Euro Cup: 4 1 4

One of the tallest females (). World Youth Champ 2003.

24. Sasha Digiulian -92
#2 8a : 9 495; 7C’s (11)
#11 World Youth Champ
Mad Rock, Sickle.
 

25. Barbara Zangerl -88
#3 8a : 9 200; 7C+’ (4)
Black Diamond, 5.10.
 

26. Christina Schmid -89
#1 Euro Cup: 2 3 2 7
#19 WC Lead; 22 10 22 10
#16 8a lead: 10 331; 8a+ Priez por nous
Mammut.
 

27. Mina Markovic -87
#6 WC Lead: 9 9 27 2 7 7 20 3 6 7
#5 World Youth Champ

World Youth Champ in 2005
 

28. Mathieu Bouyoud -88
#6 8a Lead: 11 790; 8c+ Le Declac
Millet.

29.  Thomas Neyer -87
#12 8a Lead: 11 487: 8b+’s (6)
#9 8a : 9 753; 8A+’s (2)
#2 YWC
Mad Rock.

30.  Mario Lechner -91
#1 Euro Cup: 7 6 2 1 2
#3 World Youth Champ

Keep your lower arm straight so that you feel if the rope is ending and you've forgotten to tie a knot

This hold came off and almost hit the belayer!

 Every year, sport climbers are injured and sometimes killed and few experienced climbers have not been involved in serious incidents. One reason is that climbers who get experience may become too self secure and careless. This can be seen in climbers who feel offended when someone asks to check their knot, control the use of the belay-device etc. However, if you plan to stay alive after thousands of climbs, it is important to stay humble and encourage your partner to be alert and help avoid major risks. When the Swedish national team climbed with Francois Legrand, 3-times World Champion, he asked them to check his knot!

 We believe that the most frequented error is poor communication. In many other sports performed in pairs, such as diving, you always check the equipment of your partner and control the use of commands. This "buddy-check" is a matter of reducing the human error and increase communication. In climbing, the risks can be greatly reduced if both partners check the climbing knot, the belay-device and repeat commands before starting to climb. Also, if somebody approaches you and gives you a safety tip, don't be offended but show that you appreciate it and pass on the favour to other climbers. Below follows 5 important pointers, which can help to increase climbing safety for you and your partner.
 
1. Belaying

• Belay technique - Belay dynamically to avoid static falls. A static belay combined with a leg behind the rope can create a swing that brings you head first into the wall.
• Gri-Gri technique - Common mistakes are a rope that is too thin, twisted safety-carabiner and letting go of the rope with the safety hand.
• Sloppy belay - Watch the climber and comment on unsafe climbing, such as leg inside rope.

2. Cleaning the route

• Anchor - Always use two safety points. If there is only one, try to use the last quickdraw as a back-up.
• Commands - Always repeat commands, such as "safe", before giving rope or going off belay.
• Coming down - Keep you lower hand (i.e. the safety hand) as low as possible so that you can feel if the rope is ending.
• Last carabiner - Cleaning an overhanging route may cause a swing. Be sure to unclip the belayer's end of the rope before unclipping the last carabiner.

3. Runouts/Scrambling/Soloing
 Almost every climbing day you put yourself at great risk while doing an easy run-out or scramble. A small miss happening, such as a slip or a hold breaking, can lead to serious injury or death. This happened to an 8a friend of ours while doing 3a run-out, which ended in a helicopter rescue. Remember, your skills as a climber do not make up for loose rock.
 
Solo climbing involves enormous risks and it is always unpleasant to witness an accident. Soloing at a popular crag without your own rescue team is therefore unfair to other climbers at the crag. It can be seen as putting your own thrill over the enjoyment of fellow climbers. So, if there is someone soloing at the crag, it is OK to tell that climber that you feel uncomfortable.

4. Loose rock
 At sport climbing crags most loose rocks have been removed by the area-developers. However, there is always potential for more rocks to come down as the routes are climbed by many and different types of climbers. As a climber you've probably had small pebbles and rocks come off when you tried using them as a foot- or hand-holds. Although less common, this happens also with large rocks, potentially causing severe injury to climbers. So watch out, especially in areas with cold winters, where ice forming in cracks can "push" a previous solid rock outwards and loosen it.

5. Breaking carabiners and other equipment
 Climbing material is rigorously tested to fit the high standards. However, as soon as you start using the material, wear and tear lower the standards. Therefore:

• Top carabiner - hang-dogging in the top carabiner quickly wears it out and lowers the quality.
• Bolts and hangers - Bolts rarely break unless they're old and rusty. More common is that loose hangers drop. Every climber should have a fixed key #17 in his or her personal equipment for tightening loose hangers.
• The rope - Use different ends of the rope for repeated leads and cut 5m of the ends of the rope at regular intervals to keep the rope safe.
• Harness - The part of the harness that is worn the most is the loop.