Boulder ethics - 8a discussions

This is "the small Öckeröjump", 7A+. Eliminate the right hand crimper and you have "the great Öckeröjump", 7B. Is this really two boulders?

 Bouldering ethics should be simpler than route ethics. Just walk around, find a boulder and top it out! However, in the hunt for grades and fame eliminations are becoming more common and the feeling of freedom is ruined by topo comments like  "Without healhook and the two crimpers on the left", "7C, static 8A", and so forth.

 In general, eliminations are great for training and playing around but they don't deserve a separate name and grade. This can be compared with variations that comprise an alternative (sit)-start or finish with an obvious and visible sequence. There is, however, no clear distinction between a boulder, a variation and an elimination. Bouldering is essentially about finding the easiest way up a natural boulder face and a variation is when there is an alternative "natural line" with a common start or finish that ads new sequences. If specific information is needed to understand an alternative start or top-out, we are normally talking about an elimination. 

 With regards to the scorecard all the above apply with the addition that we don't think that you should register both the original boulder and the variation. In this case you have to choose which one to include in the scorecard and put the other one in your loggbook. Like Paul Robinson (link) who has done an alternative and direct top-out to Mandala Direct, 8B+, which includes a new and harder top-out. This is a valid variation and he therefore chooses to give it a name and grade and put the original ascent in his loggbook.

 Some further notes:

• Chipping: What you can't remove with a steal brush should stay (unless something is very loose and dangerous).
• Leaving tickmarks: When redpointing a boulder it is useful to create a Picasso in order to find the holds and mark your sequence. However, it is very important that your drawings are brushed away as to not confuse other climbers.
• Bolts: If you use bolts when you train on a "boulder" you are actually aiming for soloing not bouldering. For an example, see The fly, a bouldery 9a route.
• Long traverses: We think that long traverses are just traversing not bouldering and perhaps this should be in a separate climbing category? In the end, it should be all about finding and topping-out those natural lines. See separate article boulder routes.
  

Ethics - Boulders (easiest way up) and Boulder variations and Boulder Eliminations
By Björn Pohl

Bouldering has been a climbing activity for over 100 years and probably it all started in Fontainebleau. Since then, bleausards have been sliding off the slopy boulders trying to find increasingly problematic ways to get to the top. Specific boulder problems were first identified in the mid 40-ties in topos and by painting small arrows on the rock. Lately, lots of innovative methods to create new difficult problems, have come up: Variations, Eliminations, Traverses, and Link-ups etc. Actually, maybe only half of the 8a boulders in Fontainbleau and around the world could be considered "easiest way up". Some are, in fact, so complicated that they can't be described in a topo or by arrows, instead they only exist in the mind of the first ascender and maybe their spotters.

Almost every sport has a judge deciding what’s right and wrong. The extreme athlete tries to find shortcuts like doping, "high altitude houses", pace makers etc, to be number one. In sport climbing and bouldering however, it’s more or less up to the individual to decide what goes, that is to bend and sometimes even break the "rules". These "rules", are by no means written in stone, in fact quite the contrary.

Since there’s nothing we at 8a.nu like better than to tell people what to think and do, we thought we’d take the opportunity to use this forum, where no one can object to what we’re saying, to do exactly that . This time we’ve decided to discuss the matter of bouldering ethics, a few do’s and don’ts if you like. OK, it's only a game but it's better played when everybody sticks to the same rules. It should be underlined that we are first of all looking at a way of categorising boulders from boulder variations! We’ll go through the potential troublemakers one by one and discuss them briefly, but don't forget that it's first of all a game and actually in most cases nobody knows what's right or wrong and that it's totally impossible to exactly draw a line between any boulder categories.

"The easiest way up" is the key definition for a boulder: Further more, you should categorise a boulder from a boulder variation, respectively a boulder elimination by understanding it. If you can not decide where to start, which hold to use and where you should top-out, only by looking at it and study it in the topo, then we are talking about a boulder elimination. In this case you often have to use friends, information to be able to do the specific problem. Below you can see an overview of how we define the three categories.

Traverses
Traverses are, in a few places in the world, graded with a particular hybrid scale. The world's highest graded traverse is located in Fontainbleau and it's given 8c+. We think 8B+ is a more correct and compartible grade with other traverses/long boulders in the world, like the 40 move roof, La Travesia de Balzola 8B+, in Spain. The reason for this are as follows:

1. The V-grading system makes no difference between traverses and boulders.
2. It's often hard to tell what should be called/graded like a traverse respectively called/graded like a boulder, resulting in equally hard things getting different grades.
3. How should short traverses be graded?
4. How should long roof boulders be graded?

So, what should you do if you climb something which is traverse-graded? Well, the rule of thumb is to lower the grade two steps, 8a+ becomes 7C+. In some cases one step could be justified, especially if the traverse is short and doesn't require that much endurance. Use common sence. About pathetic eliminations, link-ups, variations etc., come on… try to avoid them, they only tend to confuse things. If the problem is too easy for you - try something harder rather then go forward and back, round and round horhorizontal!

Crash pads
For starting purposes you can only use one crash pads and that is an unfolded one. If you can’t reach the holds - tough luck, then you can only do your own variation of the problem and the same goes when you use cheater stones. Apart from that, our advice is that you use as many pads as you can or that pole-vaulting mat, they are easily freight able by helicopter...

Starting holds
Normally, a boulder starts at the holds within reach. However, sometimes a boulder starts with a jump start (because there are no other possibilities) and on other occasions at holds further below, just because these holds are defined by the line. As long as the start is obvious, then we are talking boulder, but when it's hard to understand where to start, often because the problem maker mainly was going for a specific grade, then we are talking boulder problem.

Dynos
If the easiest way to top out a boulder is by a sequence of moves around a potential dyno you should do so if you want to categorise it as a boulder. The dyno might be much more fun and challenging, but as it's not natural then you should categorise it as a boulder problem.

Chipping/Chopping
First rule: You don’t chip or chop boulders. Second rule: You DO NOT chip or chop boulder! There are no grey areas here. Bouldering is about doing the hardest moves possible on rock, and it should go without saying, that means unaltered rock. Chipping means changing the rock in the way you want it, to make it suit you and frankly it sucks! In other words we don't consider it even as a boulder problem!

Top roping (Freepoint)
If nothing else is said, you’re normally supposed to top out. Use your brain though... We’re talking about high balls here, and there’s no rule saying you can’t use a top rope to practice the problem. On the ascent however, you can’t use a rope, cause that wouldn’t be bouldering. Of course, one alternative is to freepoint it.

Chalk/Pof
Use as much chalk as you want, but be sure to brush it off the holds when you’re done. Chalk attracts moisture... On the other hand old chalk also offers a reasonably good explanation for why you didn’t send the problem, so...it’s hard to say... If you’re anywhere else, but in Fontainebleau, don’t use pof! It gives you a temporary advantage and everyone who comes after you, including yourself, a disadvantage. Not exactly what we’d call a fair game... The rule is thus: Don’t use pof unless you’re absolutely sure you’re going to send...

Traverses
Traversing is not bouldering and vice versa. Traverse grades are not comparable to bouldering. The traverse grade is an actual hybrid, a mid-way to sport climbing grades. In our categorisation we consider all traverses, boulder problems as long as they are not the easiest way up. Then they are boulders by definition and should have a proper boulder grade.

Scorecard
We have had a lot of questions regarding ethics for the Scorecard and that's actually one of the reasons why we are writing this article and discussing ethics. Feel free to register anything you like in the Scorecard, but if you want to receive a specific ranking for both boulders and boulder problems register them in a categorised order (Soon to come automatically also including a specific traverse category). In the long run we hope to increase the status of doing boulders.

"Totem tries to stay balanced with nature"

• hemp chalk bags with PET fleece linear
• recycled poly crash pads with soy based foam
• recycled poly climbing packs with corn based buckles
• 100% PET rain jacket
• 60% recycled poly soft shell
  
• organic hemp climbing pant

Interview by www.planetgrimpe.com and www.kairn.com - Translation by Laurant Zoutte

Picture by Cedric Larcher

On a l'habitude de te voir évoluer en difficulté, comment t'es tu préparé pour ces championnats d'Europe de bloc ?
Je me suis pas mal entraîné avec Klian Fischuber et quelques autres forts grimpeurs. Mais je ne me suis pas entraîné tout l'hiver seulement pour cette compét, mon grand objectif cette année étant de remporter la coupe du monde de difficulté.

Quelle différence vois tu avec les compét' de difficulté ?
J'aime les deux styles ! Je ne pense pas qu'il y ai de grosses différences entre les deux disciplines. Pour les deux types de grimpe on a besoin de puissance et de technique. En bloc, la lecture est plus facile. Peut-être que la seule réelle différence est qu'en bloc nous avons autant d'essais que nous voulons.

Tu as réalisé une finale quasi sans fautes, qu'en retiens tu principalement ?
J'ai bien réussi les 3 premiers blocs, ils me convenaient bien. Je les ai réalisé en seulement 3 essais. Pour le bloc 4 j'ai eu quelques difficultés à atteindre la zone, mais finalement j'ai quand même sorti ce dernier bloc !

Tu es le premier double champion d'Europe… Que t'apportes cette victoire personnellement ?
Je suis vraiment content pour ça !! Je ne m'étais pas imaginé gagner cette coméptition, je pense que personne ne s'était imaginé ca.

Champion d'Europe en 2007 en bloc, la saison s'annonce bien pour toi ! Quelles sont tes prochaines ambitions pour cette année ?
Comme je l'ai dis, mon grand objectif cette année est de remporter la coupe du monde de difficulté. Je vise également un bon résultat aux championnats du monde en Espagne, et toujours de nombreux trips en falaises !

Peut-on espérer te voir évoluer sur les étapes de bloc cette année ?
Cette année je participerai aux étapes de Hall et de Loury - Joakim El Anhari

Interview courtesy of  http://www.planetgrimpe.com/ and http://www.kairn.com/ Translation Laurent Zoutte

Danion finished first in last week end and is therefore the new European Boulder champion!

Juliette at Birmingam

Yes, this event was a priority for several reasons. Indeed, it was a kind of revenge for me. And, I was very motivated to add a true title to my achievements. Since I participate in the boulder comps, I have always "missed" the great events ( and World Championships) either due to injury or because I was occupied. Well, this was the first comp this season; I have been waiting impatiently…

How have you prepared for the 2007 Championship?
After (in November), I took a rest to take care of my injured finger. Then I began physical preparation (musculation) during one month and as soon as my finger was better, I went to climb outside at the crag. Gradually, I started bouldering again, some campus board to get some "physics", and then I kept on going outside regularly on weekends. Compared to last year, I rather focused on volume. Last season, I realised that when I made it to the finals, I was too tired from previous turns. This year, I don't have any more exams, thus more time to train…

After you "missed" the qualification turn, what were your thoughts? How did you manage this additional stress?

That did not disturb me. I knew very well from deep inside why I had failed those qualifications (I gave up a boulder because pulling on a hold was painful on my finger), I “tickled myself” as some would say… And then, by experience, I know that it does not matter for the rankings next day!

Juliette bouldering in Ailefroide - Photo www.eb-france.com

What does this victory mean to you personally?

I am really very happy! I've been impatiently awaiting a true title. Also it's a great booster when preparing for a whole season… And also, as I learned a lot last year during the entire season I am satisfied that I have been able to use some of that experience.

European Champion in 2007, the season looks promising for you! What are your ambitions for this year?

As there is time this year, I will take part in all the Championship events and also the World Cup in September. I will try to continue on this run!

Video of Juliette climbing Dinausore 8a+ : http://www.tvmountain.com/onsight/danion.htm

Low resolution example of 20 pages in the yearbook

In return they will print and distribute their own local version of the 8a sport climbing and bouldering yearbook. A maximum 15 % of the yearbook will be ads. Of the 80 remaining pages, some 50 pages will be ready on November 1st and open for translation by each co-publisher.

These pages include all the content of the book, excluding the Climber of the year  list and the Rankings, which will be ready around January 15th, 2008. For those that are unable to layout their own 16 + cover pages, 8a offers layout production for Euro 1 000.

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