<a href="http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/show.cgi?view=7022&page=5">Christophe Zéhani </a> apparaît fréquemment dans les colonnes de ce site en réalisant chaque semaine son lot de voies dans le huitième degré. Il fait parti de ces grimpeurs qui dédiant leur vie à l'escalade, évoluent dans le très haut niveau mais dont personne n'a jamais entendu parler (à ce jour, # 8 au classement mondial et # 1 en France - classement 8a.nu). Le rassemblement d'escalade "Clé de 8" qui se tenait à la falaise de l'Atelier ce week-end m'a donné l'occasion d'improviser quelques questions et de mettre à jour certains aspects de sa personnalité.

Commençons par le début. D'où viens-tu et comment as-tu commencé l'escalade ?

Je suis né à Marseille, j'ai 32 ans et je vis depuis presque toujours à Salon de Provence (13). J'ai commencé vers l'âge de 14 ans sur des blocs à Aurons. En fait, avec mon pote on aimait se promener dans la forêt - le site était situé à 1h15 à pied de chez moi - et on grimpait sur ces rochers en baskets sans rien savoir de cette activité. C'est un camarade de collège Laurent Chalvé (aujourd'hui président du CD FFME 48), qui nous a tout expliqué : les flèches, les cotations, les chaussons, la magnésie,...

Alors, comment es-tu venu à la falaise ?

Pendant deux ans, on a fait que du bloc réalisant des passages peut-être jusqu'à 7a. Puis en 1992, Laurent nous a amené à Buoux faire "La Grande Veine Bleue" (6a+/6b). Ce fut ma première expérience en falaise, mémorable à plus d'un titre ! Je découvrais le baudrier, le gaz et voilà que la corde est trop courte pour redescendre !! Laurent s'absente un (trop) long moment, me laissant seul au bout de ma pauvre corde. Je n'avais pas confiance dans le baudrier alors je me crispais sur les pauvres prises devant moi et pour couronner le tout il y avait un serpent dans un trou à côté ! Grand moment de solitude donc !

Par la suite, je suis rentré à la Fac à Aix-En-Provence en histoire-géo et là, je me suis mis à grimper 6 jours sur 7. On n'avait pas de bagnoles alors on prenait le bus pour Meyrargue. J'y ai fait mon premier 7b, premier 7c et premier 8a (aux alentours de janvier 1995). On faisait 3 4 longueurs puis il fallait vite rentrer pour ne pas rater le dernier bus.

Quel regard portes-tu sur cette période ?

J'ai de la nostalgie, car on avait certes beaucoup de contraintes, on n'avait pas un rond, mais d'une certaine façon, on avait une grande liberté. Je me souviens d'un voyage au Frankenjura où une fois payée l'essence, il ne nous restait presque rien pour bouffer les 15 jours suivants...

Je suis content d'être venu à bout de ma licence en hist-géo, j'ai pris mon temps ! Trop motivé par la grimpe, je n'ai pas eu le courage de m'investir dans la préparation du CAPES et j'ai tout laissé tombé. Depuis, je travaille pour La Poste, je distribue des prospectus. C'est pas terrible, ça finit par m'abîmer les coudes, mais ça me laisse du temps pour grimper.

Au fait, combien de voies dans le huit à ce jour ?

1060, la millième c'était au mois de décembre dernier (<b>O Saint Léger fait moi monter au relais</b> !! 8a+).

Quelles sont les voies qui t'ont particulièrement marquées ?

Certainement <b>Le Plafond</> à Volx. Avec un copain, on avait un niveau 8a+/8b max après travail et on s'est mis en tête de faire cette voie. On s'est mis le gros chantier !! C'était la première fois que je m'investissais à ce point dans une voie. J'y pensais jours et nuits, on y allait 3 fois par semaine. Je ne peux pas te dire le nombre d'essais - une centaine peut-être ? - de toute façon le crux était un pas de bloc en bas et je pouvais faire 3/4 essais dans la séance. Il m'a fallu peut-être quatre mois pour réussir !?. De mémoire, c'était le 7 février 1997 !

Dans la région, il y avait d'autres voies de référence. Pourquoi cette voie ?

Ben Moon qui en avait fait la première, était avec Jerry Moffat mes idoles du moment et puis, ce n'était pas loin d'Aix.

Autrement, plus récemment, il y a une voie à Lourmarin qui m'a particulièrement marquée. Jusque là, la voie avait été seulement enchaînée par Graou. Entre-temps des prises ont cassées, et je pense qu'aujourd'hui la voie vaut plutôt 8c+. Il s'agit de l'intégrale du <b>Complexe d'adipeux</b>, avec des monos pieds à plats. J'adore ! Avec cette réalisation, j'ai peut-être marqué le milieu !?... J'ai même eu un appel de félicitations de François Legrand qui l'essayait et qui m'a demandé les méthodes. Mais, cette voie tient une place toute particulière, parce que j'avais tapé une trentaine d'essais l'hiver d'avant, j'étais à deux doigts de la faire et c'est Thierry Nief qui m'assurait patiemment. Depuis il est mort, laissant deux filles et sa femme derrière lui. Alors quand j'y suis retourné cet automne, c'était avec une motivation toute particulière... Je voulais clore quelque chose. Thierry m'a suivi pendant 10 ans comme un grand frère - je suis fils unique - voir comme un père - mon père est décédé il y a trois ans.

Quels sont tes rêves en escalade ?

Quand j'ai commencé à perfer, j'avais deux rêves : faire un 8b à vue et un 9a après travail. J'ai réalisé le premier : <b>Acidogène</b> au Blavet. Là aussi, une réalisation marquante ! Il me reste à réaliser un 9a...

Et alors ? Y travailles-tu ?

Je travaille une voie dans le Lubéron, à Attack. J'ai enchainé la première partie en 8c/8c+, il y a un an. Il y a un repos mais en plein toit suivi d'un 8b+. Alors c'est peut-être 8c+/9a ? 9a c'est mythique quand même !! J'en profite pour dire qu'à Attack, il y a des voies et des projets dans le très haut niveau "quasi"-naturels sur 30 mètres. Ce serait bien qu'il ait de très forets grimpeurs qui viennent essayer... Comme dit Dani Andrada, il y a des mecs très très forts, mais qui ne sortent que rarement en falaise...

Pour moi, le rêve absolu c'est <b>Biographie</b> à Céüse. C'est une voie et une falaise chargée d'histoire. J'aime les endroits où il y a une histoire. Le cadre est fabuleux et je me sens tout petit, comme un "poussin". Il ya là bas des gars tellement forts ! Paxti Usobagia était hallucinant ; dans le crux le pied droit restait collé au rocher alors que pour tout le monde, il fallait contrer le ballant ! C'est le photographe qui lui a demandé de le faire décoller - ça fait plus joli sur la photo !... Je repousse chaque année le moment d'y aller vraiment comme cela, ça reste un rêve et je peux encore y croire...

Avec tes années d'expérience, comment vois-tu l'évolution de l'escalade ?

Ce qui me fait peur, c'est la multiplication des interdictions. Alors qu'il y a un terrain de jeu extraordinaire, on n'ose parfois pas y aller. En Espagne, il ne semble y avoir aucune contrainte !

Sinon le niveau en bloc est tellement énorme que le niveau en falaise peut encore évoluer. Mais comme je te l'ai déjà dit, il faut que les gars aillent plus souvent en falaise...

Comment évolue ta pratique ?

Aujourd'hui, j'ai deux enfants (1 et 5 ans) et c'est plus difficile de concilier l'escalade avec cette vie de famille. Ca crée parfois des tensions et je suis alors moins disponible et moins performant... Je sais juste que si je ne grimpe pas je pète un câble et que quand je ne grimpe pas je n'ai qu'une hâte,c'est grimper et ce depuis 13 ans. Je suis capable de faire 500 bornes à la journée pour aller dans un spot qui me plait; j'essaie d'être tout le temps à fond mais avec le boulot et mes deux gamins il m'arrive d'être vraiment nul mais c'est pas grave, il  faut positiver. C'est mon ami Nief qui me l'a fait comprendre. D'ailleurs il me manque, sa motivation aussi. Il était toujours à bloc ! Que de souvenirs en 10 ans!...

Et puis, je préfère grimper avec un pote, je ne supporte pas de grimper avec un "assureur". Je fais beaucoup moins de concessions qu'avant là-dessus.

Avec ton niveau et ta liste de croix impressionnante, comment expliques-tu que tu ne sois pas plus connu ? Tes potes d'ici t'ont même dédicacé une voie : "Le naufragé des sponsors".

A vrai dire, je ne cherche pas. J'ai l'impression qu'il faut beaucoup de copinages. Je ne sais pas bien me vendre et c'est le genre de démarche que je ne sais pas faire.

Peut-être la démarche est-elle plus simple que tu ne crois ? Un partenariat est un échange de services qu'il faut ensemble définir.

Oui, peut-être, mais franchement, je ne saurais pas trop quoi leur dire... J'aime bien aller dans des lieues et des falaises non balisées et j'ai vu des mecs se mettre la grosse pression dans les voies parce qu'il y avait un sponsor sur leurs dégaines !

Quels sont tes univers en dehors de l'escalade ?

Je m'intéresse à l'actualité de tous les sports, surtout le cyclisme !

Le cyclisme ?

Surtout le cyclisme parce que j'en ai fait 2 ans et physiquement, c'est impressionnant!

Autrement, c'est ma famille. Je me mets le stress... Des fois, j'accélère pour rentrer plus tôt à la maison de peur qu'il arrive quelque chose à mes enfants. Je suis un papa stressé ! Au-delà de l'escalade, la trace que je laisse ce sont mes gamins. Ce qui me fait aussi flipper ce sont les changements climatiques ; en tant que grimpeur, on est tout le temps dehors et c'est aujourd'hui, quelque chose de palpable : ça ne colle pas !!

Au fait, depuis quand es-tu inscrit sur 8a.nu et quelle utilisation en fais-tu ?

Ca doit faire quatre ans maintenant, c'est mon pote Olivier Soboleff (équipeur de l'Atelier) qui m'y a inscrit, puis je me suis pris au jeu. Ce qui est amusant c'est que ça a fait évoluer ma pratique : j'avais un niveau 8c après travail et un niveau minable "à vue" parce que j'en faisais peu. Alors que ça rapporte plein de points, du coup, je m'y suis remis !

Bien sûr que mon classement tant au niveau mondial q'au niveau français, me fait plaisir et je me sens valorisé. Mais je suis bien conscient que ce n'est pas un truc à prendre à la lettre : ça reste d'abord un jeu ! Et puis, je ne suis pas d'accord avec certains qui disent que les chiffres ça ne compte pas en escalade, qu'il n'y a que le plaisir. En tout cas, ceux qui sont dans le 8 et qui disent cela sont des hypocrites !

Comme je te le disais, j'aime bien les stats sur le sport et 8a.nu est une fabuleuse banque de données. Lorsque tu pars en voyage, tu regardes les voies qui sont faites, celles qui sont à faire absolument. Dans les périodes de démotivation, je regarde ce que j'ai fait au même moment l'année précédente et ça suffit pour repartir...

(il est à noter que Christophe n'a pas d'ordinateur et paye donc pour renter ses croix à chaque fois qu'il va  dans un cyber café !!...).

Je te laisse le mot de la fin :

Je n'ai pas de sponsors à remercier, mais j'ai plein de potes à remercier pour les qualités tant humaines que sportives. Bon, je vais en oublier mais tant pis.... Je pense à <a href="http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/show.cgi?view=5387&page=5">Olivier Soboleff </a>- Mr Crouttes - qui m'a invité ici (Christophe est venu en guest-star J ). Je pense à mon pote Alex Serre (le plus gros tractosaure du sud est) et à <a href="http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/show.cgi?view=11010&page=5">Olivier Bert </a>: l'élève a bientôt dépassé le maître alors qu'il est plus âgé que moi. Il est premier au Ghana et je suis officiellement le coach de l'équipe du Ghana !

Je pense bien sûr à Thierry Nief, qui me manque.

Sickle - a responsible producer

 Sickle(link) first started out selling hand made chalk bags, produced and distributed by owner Owner Ryan Broersma out of his old Volvo. "The business plan was simple, sell a quality product at a fair price, build it to last, and give superior customer service."

 During a decade Sickle has grown into a relatively large company, which has increased the demands of environmentally friendly ways of producing their products. Their main action has been to convert all products made by cotton to organic cotton, without loosing the original quality. In doing so they have "prevented thousands of pounds of harmful substances from entering our soil, air, and water". The plan is to keep finding new ways of producing environmentally firendly products that minimize impacts on the planet, such as hemp materials. Click here to view Sickle's line of Organic Sustainable products.

 8a supports Sickle in taking responsibility as a producer

37 metres outdoor wall at Bjoeks in Groningen Pic Reinder Heijs

21 meter high - Klimhal Amsterdam with 2500 m2

Climbing and bouldering in a flat country by Arjan de Vries

Strangely enough, the lack of climbing sites hasn’t had much of an influence on Dutch climbers. We have and had strong competition climbers (Jorg Verhoeven and Mirjam Verbeek, to mention just two) and several hard routes in the have been opened by fellow countrymen. How did this happen?

First and mostly, there has been a strong Alpine club here for more than a century. NKBV is one of the largest alpine clubs worldwide, giving sport-climbing here a large base to draw from. Every city with a university has a student climbing club under the flag of NSAC/NKBV. As climbing on plastic came in fashion, most of these clubs managed to put up a climbing wall on their sport facilities.

At the end of the millennium the amount of sport-climbers became large enough and commercial gyms sprung up everywhere, currently 26 (small gyms not included). These new facilities made it possible for our top climbers to catch up with the world climbing elite. Talent development by the Alpine club helps the future elite.

 

In the city of Amsterdam there are 3 large gyms already, the greater area of 75km around has lots more to offer. Klimhal Centraal is dead center very near the Central Station. Next is Tussen Hemel en Aarde, located in a former church. The biggest one is Klimhal Amsterdam with some 2500 m2. 

Here you have the 8a map of all the gyms in the Netherlands.

 What if you could trigger your brain to turn into 100% climbing mode next time you step onto that hard route or boulder? Just like that, and you have full focus and no fear from first to last move. It sounds like fantasy, however it’s not. Adam Blomberg has looked into how the brain works under stress and how you can deal with it to become a better climber.

Erik Heyman during mental relaxation on top of the world, Kvaloya, Norway. © Malin Holmberg

 Few realize that the fastest way to improve your climbing can be to take control over your own mind. The mental aspects of climbing are widely recognized but few climbers actually train and develop their mental and psychological skills in a structured way. Those that are mentally strong already “have it” while the rest of us have to live with it and fight through stress and fear with sweaty palms, racing hearts and shortness of breath. Well, it does not need to be like that, the mind can be trained as the body can, however the rules are different and therefore the techniques used will be different.

  The ideal state of mind is when we are 100% focused on the task at hand, not disturbed by things happening around us, by our own thoughts or by feelings of fear, anxiety or doubt. This state of mind is usually termed the zone, the place where we have access to all our strength, our best technique and where we are fully concentrated on climbing. In the zone the performance climber will be sending harder than ever and the traditional climber will take control over difficult or scary climbing without excessive fear and anxiety. The problem is that for most climbers getting into the zone happens on chance. What we want is a button to press that gets us into the zone. The good news is that there are buttons that can and will accelerate your mental training and improve your psychological ability.

 The brain under stress is the challenge. Under high stress situations (which climbing is so full of) important parts of the brain will shut down and old programmes will automatically take over and steer our climbing. Somatic behaviours like high body tension, increased heart beat, intense breathing, tunnel vision etc are the effects of such programmes. Feeling these effects will give room to negative thinking, which in turn will give room for anxiety, doubt or fear. This is the reason why we, when pressed, time after time either fail or have to push through wasting our psychological energy. We often claim that we not are strong enough, too short or too long, when most times the answer lies in our mind. This is the way the brain works under stress and it may be difficult to change. However, what we can do is to replace “bad” programmes that limits us with “good” programmes that helps us get into and stay in the zone.

 We act according to our mental map of the outer world, not according to what the world really looks like. This is the reason why we as climbers need to have clear and positive mental images of a successful climb in our programmes. This is what will steer us. To be able to programme the brain we need to relax body and mind. The more relaxed we are the more access we have to our memory circuits in the brain. The technique described here to create positive climbing images is called anchoring. The idea is to anchor the good feeling of the perfect climb in our brain and then, when starting off on a climb, we will release this good state of mind by pressing a simple trigger.

 Set the anchor by following these steps:

• Choose a unique and simple trigger, e.g. the clipping of a karabiner, pressing your toes upward etc.
• Relax as deeply as possible, sit or lie down, assure no outer disturbances, music may work for you.
• Create an inner movie of yourself climbing the perfect climb (make it as real as possible: you have to be able to see it, feel it and smell it)
• Set the anchor when the feeling is at the highest by pressing your trigger. Timing is essential. Repeat it a number   of times.
• Make this part of your regular training a couple of days every week. Each session will take you about 20-30 minutes.

  The release of the anchor should be the final thing you do before setting off on a hard red-point, an on-sight attempt or during competition. Assure that you have a good mental ritual before you start that hard climb, warm-up, relax, visualize the moves, boost your confidence and then get into the zone by releasing the anchor by setting off your trigger, then go. Divide the climb into sections, climb the first section, stop, rest and relax, then release the trigger and go for the next section, continue like this until you finish the climb or you fall off.

 After a successful climb (= where you felt in the zone) always keep the good feeling and stack it on to your anchor by pressing your trigger a number of times. By doing this you will make it stronger and more reliable.

 The way of training for climbing is obviously through climbing. Red Pointing is the ideal way to progressively increase the mental strain. Use the anchoring technique by setting of your trigger every time that you are red pointing a route. Then you can test your mental progress when onsighting as climbing towards the unknown is the ultimate challenge. Start to train your brain. I promise that you will improve yourself and you will enjoy climbing more than ever….

MELLOBLOCCO 2007 by Nicola Noè Pictures

Claudio Piscina

Great numbers for the two days’ discovery of the new boulder areas opened near Sasso Remenno, in Val Masino. 1000 registered participants representing 31 nations: Germans (30), British (20), French, Spanish and Cecks (15 from each), but the event also saw Americans, Mexicans, Brazilians, Koreans, Philippinos and South Africans.

420 problems (with a majority of medium and easy - from 5 to -, of which 280 brand new) were drawn by artist and boulder setter Simone Pedeferri on the map given to participants in the event kit.

Social event on Saturday night with the White Party, the great party held at the camp site Sasso di Remenno offering special atmosphere by the river, music with Dj Brenna (i.e. Italian climber Cristian Brenna), a fierce and fun Slack Line Contest and loads of beer.

After Saturday afternoon’s rain, great finale on Sunday in the sun at Centro Polifunzionale della Montagna, with Marco Ballerini as anchorman of the money-awarding ceremony and lottery, with Spanish climber Pedro Gonzales who won the most wanted lottery prize (a crash-pad…).

In this edition of Melloblocco, Simone Pedeferri proposed 11 money-awarding boulder problems, 5 for ladies and 6 for gents, all of them climbed during the event!

21 ladies climbed at least one money-awarding problem

23 gentlemen climbed at least one money-awarding problem

Below, the names and number of problems sent; in brackets the number of problems flashed

Ladies

Barbara Zangerl Austria 5 (2)

Elena Chiappa Italy 5 (1)

Emeline Thomas France 4

Roberta Longo Italy 4

Giovanna Pozzoli Italy 3 (1)

Giulia Giammarco Italy 3 (1)

Raffaella Cottalorda Italy 3 (1)

Stefania De Grandi Italy 3 (1)

Petya Garbava Bulgaria 3

Flaminia Capezzuoli Italy 2

Martina Frigerio Italy 2

Zuzana Ulrichovà Czech Republic 2

Francesca Pasini Italy 1 (1)

Sara Bacer Italy 1 (1)

Ina Djambazova Bulgaria 1

Jana Kuchejda Ceck Republic 1

Lucy Atkinson UK 1

Marina Pauli Italy 1

Meta Van Hoek The Netherlands 1

Milena Bergna Italy 1

Shane Amici The Philippines 1

Gentlemen

Mauro Calibani Italy 5

Guillame Glairon-Mondet France 5

Gabriele Moroni Italy 4 (1)

Valter Vighetti Italy 4

Cristian Brenna Italy 3 (1)

Stefano Ghidini Italy 3 (1)

Spilka Martin Czech Republic 3

Yasushi Sasaki Japan 2 (1)

Alessandro Gandolfo Italy 2

Andrei Chrastina Czech Rep. 2

Bàlint Kalmva’s Hungary 2

Diego Sirtori Italy 2

Matteo Gambaro Italy 2

Alberto Milani Italy 1

David Pica France 1

Enrico Baistrocchi Italy 1

Jakub Hlavàcek Czech Rep. 1

Manuel Coretti Italy 1

Milton Pauletto Switzerland 1

Oscar Amici Italy 1

Riccardo Caprasecca Italy 1

Stephan Dugit France 1

Tony Lamprecht Germany 1

The ultimate route, 8c+, Petzl Rock Trip © Anna Piunova

 I’ve noticed you’re pretty relaxed when it comes to climbing right now, how come?
-Well, I need to feel motivated when I climb and right now I am just enjoying the time here with all these great people and chilled atmosphere. Sunday I will have a go at the Ultimate Route. Also, after being close to obsessed with my DWS (deep water solo) project for so long I feel kinda’ mentally drained. I’m sort of just enjoying being here.

 Sharma spent months working his DWS project Es Pontas, a freestanding arch in the waters outside Porto Christo, a small port-town at Mallorca. The climb includes a crux-sequence plus a 7-foot dyno, which Chris had to try 50 times before sticking it. Early this autumn he finally sent it and you could imagine the sensation he must have felt at the top.

Chris, in short, explain the feeling of working and sending a project like Es Pontas:
-You know, when you’re working a project really hard and consistently, it becomes more than a challenge. It becomes the meaning of everyday, like a nemesis but also a friend. So, when I finally did it there was a mixture of feelings. First I was so relived and, you know, really happy. It felt so personal. But then after a while I felt like I’d lost something, a purpose, a meaning… I don’t know. I mean, I’d been thinking about the moves and the prospect of doing it for so long that it had become my life, just then I mean. I dreamed about it and thought about all the time, more or less. So, it was great to send it but it brought on a lot of contradicting emotions.

Ok, so what motivates you to keep climbing at this level and alternating between different genres of the sport?
-It’s all about finding new lines and exploring different types of climbing. Like, for me, this meant dedicating myself to deep water soloing and to my project. For example, when I found my project I didn’t even now if I could do it. I tried it so many times and in the end I had to down-climb to the hole that I had tried dynoing for just to feel it out. The down-climb in itself was probably French 7c+ and when I tried the hole I knew it was going to be a very engaging challenge. I had to do it. Other than that it’s my lifestyle. For the last nine years I have been travelling and climbing and even if I wasn’t at this level I would still climb, keep pushing myself and look for beautiful new lines. There have been times when I’ve thought about doing something else, especially after my injury six years ago, but now I’m just really into it.

 About six years ago Sharma suffered a knee injury that kept him from hard climbing. This had him thinking about the future, education and what to do if he couldn’t climb. In a way, this led him to travel around in East Asia, where he housed in different monasteries and devoted himself to yoga and meditation. Fortunately, for him and us, his dedication to climbing and pursuit of those perfect lines brought him back to the climbing scene.

So do you have any other passions than climbing?
-Not really. I mean, I love hanging out with my girlfriend and friends and all that but when it comes to interests it’s all about climbing right now. There was a time when I was really into meditation, and I bring that with me, but I’m really psyched about climbing right now.

What about atmosphere and scenery, how important is it to you when you climb?
- The atmosphere is very important. But, you know, this can be so varied. I mean, you can be totally happy by yourself out on an island, working a project or whatever, and then a few days later equally happy among 500 spectators at a climbing event. I guess it’s the diversity that’s important, as long as it is outdoors. Right now I’m not really into indoor climbing and comps because I can always go to whatever place suits me independent of season. Something that I really like though, is going to new and remote areas that haven’t been visited before and just try new boulders. I mean, to be in nature by yourself or with a friend surrounded by unexplored rock. Just having all these untouched boulders lying there and then finding ways up the boulders …, it forces you to interact with the rock in a way. After a while you can see chalk-marks and cleaned holds everywhere, and to me, this makes the rock come alive. It’s really cool to see how you can make a mark on life like that.

I’ve heard you say that satisfaction is short. Does this mean you get restless soon after sending a project?
-No not really. It’s true I guess that I start looking for new challenges but I’m usually not in a hurry. Often it comes natural as I visit so many places each year and there is always something that catches my eye. Now I am looking to work some on La Rambla, 9a+, in Siurana, Catalonia (Spain).

 Does Sharma ever train? When I bring it up he sort of shake his head and talks about climbing as training and how you get better when you dedicate yourself to a problem. Indoor campusing? Never, Chris rather spends his time relaxing whenever he’s not outdoors. Perhaps this is the way to do it (if you’re talented like hell) but I guess we all have to find our own preferred lifestyle and way of climbing?

You say you climb at will but I guess there is some sort of pressure from the sponsors for you to keep performing?
-If there is I’ve never felt it. Of course I know that I have to keep climbing in one way or another but I think I’ve accomplished enough so far, I mean, enough for the sponsors to be able to use my name and picture for their ads and stuff. I guess in that way they have never pressured me but if I didn’t climb for a long time maybe it would be different. Then again, looking back at the period when I just travelled around and spend some time in monasteries, not climbing at all, I never heard them complain. Hmm.

Do you have any problems with being an icon of climbing? I mean, is it hard to know who’s genuine and who’s not?
-Well, you’re right. Sometimes people may act differently around me and there have been occasions when people have behaved well towards me but treated my friends badly. So, yes, I have become a bit reserved towards new acquaintances and people but, generally, most people are decent. I guess, as you say, that people that I don’t know doesn’t really tell me off like you would someone else but I’ve got my old friends and some really good new ones who treat me like anyone else and I think that’s enough for me. Actually, it’s really great to be out climbing or doing whatever with my old friends. It’s just like before when we were younger, a great atmosphere, and, it doesn’t matter at what level you climb, you know.

What about grades and the 8a web site?
-Well, grades are foremost good for measuring your improvement. We all like to see that we get better, especially in the beginning of climbing when it is harder to see and feel your limits. Then it is easier to use the grades as marks of improvement. I guess grades are also useful when you come to a new area and you don’t know what routes to climb and so forth, though I rarely use guidebooks these days. Other than that I think grades can destroy a lot of the fun with climbing. I prefer to just climb the beautiful lines, you know. I much rather do a beautiful 8a than an ugly 9a. As for the 8a web site I wasn’t very impressed in the beginning and I thought that it was concentrating too much on performance. But then I met Jens (founder of 8a) on different occasions and I got the impression that he was in this just for the fun of it and not for the performance and money. So, I guess that grades are all right if you remember that grades mainly should be a positive way of competing against yourself and pushing your limits. I know I was pretty into it in the beginning.

As you don’t grade your routes, how do you measure improvement?
-Well, I don’t really need a grade to know when I am pushing my limits. If it’s really hard and you need to work the moves I know I’m getting stronger. Yeah, that’s it.

If you could give something back to the community in terms of tips and tricks, what would that be?
-I don’t really have any great advice. I can’t say what’s good or bad. I mean, just climb a lot if you feel like it. Just have fun, you know. It’s not supposed to be hard work to go out and climb because you want to get better, it must come naturally. It’s a lifestyle, I guess.

 It was time to brake. I thank Chris for the interview and we shake hands in the lobby of the hotel. As he looms away towards the crowd of climbers I order a Greek drink and contemplate Chris’s answers. Maybe he’s right? It’s all about life style.

 In order to put climbing of today into a broader perspective by combining the life style and performance components, 8a.nu has produced the 8ABC pyramid of rock-climbing. ABC stands for Adrenalin, Blood flow and Champion. We believe these words and how they relate represent the basics of rock climbing in that they function as guidance and motivation for climbers.

Progress from the base and up as it is difficult to peak without a solid foundation.

 The base of the 8a pyramid constitutes of Adrenaline and Blood flow. This means that the foundation of climbing should lie in the interplay between the mental challenge (Adrenalin) and physical training (Blood flow). A solid foundation is based on the enjoyment of the act itself and the embracing of its demands and sentiments both mentally and physically. To be a climber also means developing and discovering other aspects of climbing, such as experiencing new places and meeting new people. Furthermore, it is important to get to know the sport, and learn more about safety, techniques and tactics. As you progress in these basic aspects of climbing you satisfy the base of the pyramid and become a climber.

 By adding climbing training to the schedule you can turn the pursuit into a sport. Crossing this boundary is the first step towards optimisation of your skills through physical, mental and tactical exercises. This is where most climbers end up and here it is important to look back and remember what constitutes the base of the pyramid since it is difficult to progress unless the base is satisfied. Then, as you discover the “kick” of climbing at your very limit you can learn how to read and understand your physical and mental conditions in ways that will facilitate your development. In this position, periodic training-schemes, controlled diets and perhaps cardiovascular training (i.e. running, cycling, etc.) can help you improve and reach that next level, the Champion. Here Champion is referred to in the context of winning against your mind, against gravity and against your presumed limits. This is the ultimate challenge to the body and mind. However, it is important to remain in balance with the rest of life’s demands in order to find your own life style as a climber.

Coach Jens giving SMS-beta. Picture: Carl Johan Svensson

 Are you a beginning climber who is starting to send all the 6c routes or 6B boulders at your local gym? Are you ready to take that next step and move up a level?

 Jens Larssen (picture) has climbed for more than 15 years and worked as a climbing coach. He has seen, done and heard of most mistakes that you do as a beginning climber.  Here are some of Jens top advices:

1. Avoid pump! Don’t aim for pump when you train but let your muscles get used to climbing by doing more easy routes. Pump deteriorates your muscles. A common mistake is to warm up too little and too hard. Don’t be afraid of resting while warming up. Keep in mind the average 8a/8A climber never warms up on climbing harder than 7a/7A. Hence, if you are a 6b/6B climber, you should not warm up on anything harder than 5b/5B. This is not saying that pump could be part of training when you press yourself. However, try to climb less in the middle of your capacity and go for the extremes, i.e. easy and hard.

2. Aim for volume. If possible, climb top-rope, up and down. This will make you get used to climbing an make you climb without thinking too much.

3. Recruitment awareness. You have to realise that to maximise strength you have recruit your muscles. When trying out moves it usually takes a few tries before you can get the most out of your muscles. Be patient and recruit.

4. Vary your repertoire. Everyone has a tendency to climb in a certain way and succumb to a certain repertoire, especially when pressed. Break your habits and climb in ways that feels “wrong”. For example, force yourself to climb dynamic and loose the feet! More important, take a step away from the set routes/boulders and find your own way up the wall. Try weird stuff, like using only one arm or only one leg.

5. Gripping technique. 9/10 times when you fall it’s because you’re not focusing on your gripping technique. For example, if you land on a crimper with an open hand, close that crimp before continuing.

6. Use a pulsating gripping technique. Circles may increase pump but you may need less of it if you change your gripping technique. Pulsating gripping means quickly releasing pressure on your grip to increase blood flow. PICTURE

7. Soft and hard shoes. Train in your softer shoes and use the harder ones for performance…

                                                                             Red River Gorge

Thomas Schmid on one of his first tries of “God’s Own Stone” (8b+) that he later redpointed on his 5th go. This line is the hardest of several hard routes on the beautiful Gold Coast main wall.

Daniel Schmid is setting up for the already classic arête of “Paradise Lost” (8a) at the Purgatory. This crack is an example for the recent developments in the Southern Region that include some excellent lines.

Ajay Mehra on “Golden Boy” (8a) at the Gold Coast.

As shown on page 20 of the 8a yearbook 2006, one of the most famous walls at the Red: the Madness Cave at the Motherload, offering spectacular routes like “Transworld Depravity” (8b+), “Omaha Beach” (8b+), “Last of the Bohicans” (8b), “BOHICA” (8a), and “Flour Power” (8a). Look closely and you’ll see the lines of chalked holds.

No yellow card due to short slacking? No flapper from the sharp pocket? Ajay Mehra focusing on “Blood Bath” (7b+) in the cave of the Bob Marley Crag.

Quick facts:

• Sandstone climbing area in eastern with well over hundred crags spread out in the
• More than 1700 routes^*
• ~ 800 sport routes, ~ 770 trad routes, and ~ 80 mixed routes^*
• Easier than 6a: ~ 95 sport routes^*
• 6a – 6c+: ~ 340 sport routes^*
• 7a – 7c+: ~ 300 sport routes^*
• 8a and harder: ~ 50 routes^*
• Best climbing season: fall

Deep in the forests of , the Red River Gorge awaits you with loads of climbing on great quality sandstone, ranging from strongly featured to absolutely blank. Many routes are well overhung, offer lots of exposure and will pump out your forearms. Besides steep, athletic endurance climbs, the Red offers almost all kinds and styles of climbing, with just as many traditional as sport routes.

Many of the popular sport climbs are long and pumpy on slightly to severely overhung walls, with athletic and technical moves on pockets, edges, and crimps.

Popular traditional climbs often follow aesthetic cracks, flakes, dihedrals, and chimneys, demanding plenty of technique and stamina.

The recent addition of very hard lines, like Lucifer (8c+), might make this area more interesting for top level climbers. However, due to the high density of excellent routes in the seventh French grade, it probably suits best those climbers trying to push towards 8a.

Why travel to the Red?

Variety of climbing: The Red is famous for long and steep routes on great rock, so make sure to bring some stamina. However, you will also find short, bouldery routes and many climbs that require precise technique and balance, rather than stamina. Vertical crimp-climbs and delicate slabs together with easier climbs on walls covered with pockets, huecos, and edges make up for much more variety than one might expect after just seeing pictures of the Motherloads’ madness cave.

Number of routes: The lines on all the different cliffs provide for a lifetime of climbing.

New developments: Ray Ellingtons’ complete guide to the Red River Gorge was published in 2005 and describes 1311 routes on 104 cliffs. Now, just two years later, there are 1732 routes on 139 cliffs. A second edition of the guidebook will be available in September 2007.

Onsight friendly: White chalk on sandstone always makes for good tick marks. If you arrive with good stamina, you should get a reward for the training.

Traditional climbing: If you have some experience placing pro, you can set out for great trad climbing at the Red. There are few multipitch climbs, but many of the single pitch routes offer exposure and, possibly, leg shaking that will keep your adrenaline up for days. Numerous classic lines with perfect finger cracks, nasty offwidths, and demanding flaring cracks make for a complete experience and also offer solitude on busy weekends. Beware of sandbagged 5.8 and 5.9 climbs!

Setting: Forests covered in rhododendrons surrounding little creeks make a beautiful canvas for the cliffs whose color ranges from dark grey to bright orange.

Miguels Pizza Place: If you’re not impressed by the fact that it is a climbers-only campground and a great place to hang out and meet other climbers, just try Miguel’s pizza, his pasta dishes, salads, or breakfast omelets… and you’ll know why I need to go back soon!

Euro high: If you’re a euro, just check out the current exchange rate!

Why not!

Lower grade climbs: Despite continuous development there is still a somewhat low density of sport climbs easier than 6a. Furthermore, very few of them stay dry in rainy conditions.

Highest grade climbs: Good for you, if this is an issue: There are several open projects besides lines of up to 8c+. Yet, with a number of about 22 climbs harder than 8a, there is a somewhat limited choice for elite climbers.

You don’t like steep climbs and lots of air.

When?

Year-round climbing is possible, yet summers can be hot and humid, spring might have a lot of rain, and winters can be quite cold. The best season is the fall.

Where?

The Red is located in eastern just some miles outside the little town Slade and about a one hour drive southeast of . Closest airports are in , , and .

Places to stay?

The most popular place among climbers is the climbers-only campground at Miguel’s Pizza place. The incredibly nice family together with their climber-dirtbag employees will provide you with great food and a variety of climbing gear. There is also a selection of other campgrounds, hostels, motels, and cabins in the proximity.

What’s coming up?

The annual Rocktoberfest of the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has been paired up with the Petzl Rock Trip: 12 – 14 of October, 2007

http://www.rrgcc.org/events.php

Links:

• Ray Ellington’s superb guidebook “The Red River Gorge” (http://wolverinepublishing.com/the_red_river_gorge.html) provides all necessary information. The first edition is sold out, yet a second edition will come out in September 2007.
•  ^(*) All route statistics are based on the website http://redriverclimbing.com/. This page with its complete online guidebook is the best source for latest information about the climbs at the Red.
• Founded in 1996, the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition works hard to secure access and climbing at the Red: http://www.rrgcc.org/
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_River_Gorge#Rock_Climbing

Like many other companies Houdini (link) is increasing their environmental activism and becoming the first European partner of Teijin and their Eco CircleTM project. Teijin is a japanese company who has developed a process to recycle polyster, which decreases energy consumption and thus carbon dioxide emissions with with up to 75%.

Eco CircleTM is currently the only process that recycles polyester without loosing quality. This means old polyster can be recycled more than ones. In April 2007 Houdinis first Eco CircleTM products will be released, representing 25% of their entire collection.

-”With the help of our customers we can create an environmentally sustainable system and decrease the consumtion of carbon based energy sources”.



8a proudly supports Houdini in their endevours!