Training/Jens: All climbers are unique when it comes to training background, physics, strength and what we think is fun etc. This means that general advice that are presented on 8a do work differently for every climber. Here is try to give some specific advices for some different kind of climbers.

1. Tall guys up to intermediate level, female and youngsters
Put in some session where you focus on just bending your arms and lock off. Climb with as bent arms as possible to work your biceps and stabilize your body for longer moves.

2. Every session ends in a burning pump
You are at risk for having compartment syndrome meaning that your forearm muscle is to big and has no space in the enclosing fascia. Climb only super easy routes/traverses which will improve your blood circulation, waiting for the fascia to expand. Give your self a hard massage getting out the slag.
 
3. Indoor routes rats aiming to perform outdoors
Create rainbow routes by combining several hard routes into one and focus on shorter moves just as outdoors. Grab the intermediates dynamically and always try to have a tickling gripping technique.

Training/Jens: Climbing makes you stronger and for long time progress you do not need to follow any program but sometimes, stay away from being pumped. Here is a quick and easy recipe that will make you significantly stronger over 10 session during a month or so.

1. Create some 3-5 boulders on different angles where you can reach the top in a controlled style looking of 1 second between each 6-8 long moves.

2. Start with the vertical one and repeat it 2-4 times and then rest 3-5 minutes. Make sure you absolutely do not get pumped, if so longer rest and fewer repeats.

3. Work your way into the steeper terrain and probably you need to rest longer and also in between the repeats, in the end of the session. A session should exclusive warming-up take 45-90 minutes. <b>You should get tired but not pumped.</b>

4. Rest at least one day and after 2-3 sessions you will feel the great sensation that you can increase the 1 second lock-of into 2-3 seconds. When you can lock-of longer it is time to re-do the boulders. Good luck :-)

WARNING: If you have not at least two years training experience or so I recommend you to NOT focus on strength training like this, as it might get you injured. If you do it anyway, skip the lock-of as these can get you elbow injuries.

Training/Jens: Onsight training indoors is rare and in fact has nothing to do with OS on rock. Indoors, route setters try to make moves that are as nice as possible.  If we are talking pure enjoyment, they are right on the spot.

If your level is 7b, combine two 7c colored routes.  You will be surprised how much you have to think and hesitate, just like outdoors.  Another alternative is to go for a single 7c route, and use all footholds. <b>There are endless possibilities, that help you train better and have more fun.</b>

Training/Jens: To have fun and challenge yourself setting personal best', we all know that we have to speed it taking chances. However, it is easy to start the session in a contra productive way as we normally continous in the same comfort style after some nice warming up.

To hang around on your onsights and climb controlled will almost always get you to the anchor on routes 2-3 grades below the max. At your personal best level, the slow style will not take you anywhere.

If you just have the guts to reduce the comfort zone climbing from 90 % to 50 % you will miss some easy onsight but there is also a guarantee for setting a personal best and also to get more adrenaline in your system :-)

The History of the Friend

www.gu-caps.com

For two years I was trying very hard to gain an increasingly higher level, but I failed. Finally this autumn I was able to send Anam Cara (8B+ or 8C). I personally think that this was the reason for my progress, it showed me that it is possible for my body & mind to climb on that high level where they are working together and even more so I don't feel that I have reached my limit already.

The last month was crazy, not even I know what´s going on! I was able to do so many sends in a very short time, I felt that I have my body under control at a new level. I felt this while climbing boulders like General Disarray or Vecchia leone. So it was not only luck! =)

During the winter I will climb in Swiss and Font. I am thinking about a trip to the US around the new year. It's all depending on the sponsors. I really appreciate the support I have gotten from my sponsors and I really believe in climbing as a way of life and want to continue pushing in that direction.

Basically my goal for the winter is repeating some harder boulders around 8B+ everywhere I travel to build a better base and of course keeping an eye out for the new amazing boulders.

At the moment I can afford my climbing with my little cap company Gu-Caps.
I built up this business on my own and keep it all hand made in the family, I even have my amazing grandmother making caps with me =)

For the future I dream that climbing can be my main job and continued focus: It is the only thing that makes me really happy to do and share with others. (and i think I'm not that bad in what I'm doing=)) Climbing gives my life a sense of purpose & pushes me to work harder in the exploration of what is possible...

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT CARABINERS, by Nick Sotos

Carabiners literally are the bond that holds together the safety system in climbing; this might be only a small piece of climbing gear, but it is at the same time so important, that nowadays it is difficult even for experts to climb without it. Let’s find out what are the differences among various types of carabiners. In the end, we will know which type of carabiner to use in the appropriate situation.

SHAPE OF CARABINER

Their basic difference is shape. As soon as one realizes that each and every shape of carabiner is made for different types of climbing, he will be able to select and purchase the appropriate carabiner for his style.

Oval

Oval shape carabiners were the ultimate leader 20 years ago. Back then, all climbers used to use exclusively oval carabiners. To start with:

·       Firstly, they are not as durable as modern ones. Due to their oval shape, they transfer more strength to the major axis on the heel crotch, a fact that increases durability. 

·       Secondly, while gate opening is small, clipping your 10.5mm rope - or even worse an 11mm rope- could turn into nightmare.

D – Shape

The research of advancing gear durability led to the D – Shape carabiners. This particular shape transfers greater resistance to the spine of the frame. However, for this small gate opened only 15 to 18mm, climbers kept seeking for something new, something better.

Asymmetrical D- Shape

These carabiners are the most common among climbers. They have the classic D – Shape, but with one side wider than the other. This asymmetrical shape maintains the durable benefits of the D – Shape carabiners, but also utters a bigger gate opening, which is now ranged between 20 to 25mm. That makes the clip of your 11mm thick sport climbing rope, pure and simple enjoyment.

HMS Carabiners

These asymmetrical D- Shape carabiners are bigger than classics’; this feature makes HMS Carabiners ideal for belay device. It is also the most suitable for using with “Munter Hitch”. Just for the history, the acronym HMS comes from the German “Halb Mastwurf Sicherung”, which means Munter Hitch Belay.

GATE OPTIONS

There are 4 different gate choices when selecting your carabiners.

Let's examine the options that will help you take the decision before choosing your carabiner.

Straight

The standard straight gates are the most common among climbing carabiners. They are used on protection, bolts and quickdraws. They are perfect for general climbing use.

Their main disadvantage is that they are not so friendly and easy-to-use when you try to clip a quickdraw in an “Oh, my Gog! I'm gonna fall” situation.

Bent – Gate

The research of an easier and faster clipping, led to bent-gate carabiners. This type of gate has a slight concave curve. The bent-gate design does affect neither the strength nor the weight of a carabiner. Just an advice, use them only on the end of the quickdraw; if they are not used properly, bent-gate carabiners may unclip from your rope easier than the straight ones.

Locking Gate

This carabiner is equipped with a strong locking mechanism that prevents the carabiner from opening accidentally. They are heavier from a standard carabiner and safer. There are two different types of locking gates, depending on the locking system.

·       Manual locking, known as screwgate. This type of carabiner is equipped with a threaded collar which screws down over the gate so it cannot be opened. Remember that it requires from the climber to screw the sleeve onto the gate to lock it.

·       Auto-locking. By using this type of carabiner the climber should do nothing more than just let it go, and it will lock automatically when the gate is closed.

Last but not least, locking-gate carabiners are ideally used in rappelling, belaying and locking gear.

Wire-gate
This type of carabiners came to resolve one of the major problems that a classic straight and bent-gate carabiner had; “gate-whip”, which is the slight open of the gate when the carabiner is under big pressure on the major axis of its body. Wire-gate is using a loop of stainless steel wire for a gate. This steel wire loop creates its own spring mechanism as it pivots in the close position. Wire-gate carabiners are the lightest on the market.

TIPS

When the gate of a carabiner doesn't work well and remains open, try to clean it with a cloth and will propably be as new. If the problem remains, I would not trust it.

Do not feel confident with a carabiner, if you notice or touch a crack on it. Again, do not use it.

WHY ALL THESE ARE NECESSARY TO KNOW

RED CHILI - CORONA VCR

By Esteban Diez Fernández & Ignacio Sandoval Burón

These climbing shoes have been mostly used in Spanish crags like Rodellar, Vadiello, San Martín de Val de Onsera, Valdegobía and Bielsa, i.e, crags where the requirements at the climbing shoes are minor. However, they have also been used, although a bit less, in other more vertical areas such as Valdehuesa and Pedrosa. These last types of areas (vertical) are those for where we think this model performs better.

Our conclusions on the Red Chili Corona VCR are:

-       They are really well constructed both in the inner and in the outer sides. They have an interior lining which makes them very comfortable and easy to wear. All that suggests that it will accept well multiple resolings.

-       That lining makes us think they are not going to stretch too much (in fact, they haven’t done it during the 2 month period we have used them), so you have to be very careful when choosing the size. We recommend half a size bigger than for the ‘Matador VCR’ if you don’t like suffering too much and/or if your feet are on the wide side.

-       Such difference between these two models is motivated by a lower profile toe room which, on the other hand, will undoubtedly ease the edging on micro holds and the action of placing them in small/thin holes. Overall, it has got a nice last where the feet fill every inch and by which the heel is well covered.

-       Two rear pull on tabs make easy to put them on.

-       Upper rubber in the arch and over the toe for toe-hooking.

-       The rubber used is the Super Sticky 4.5mm RX2, offering good sensitivity along with a good duration. However, its stickiness is slightliest worse than that of the best rubbers out there.  They do not perform that good when stepping on sloppy or polished holds while highlighting in front edging on small holds and holes thanks to their aggressive sharp asymmetric toe.

-       Nice two Velcro closures if we focus on length and durability criteria. They are long enough to cover the span if your feet are wide and they have not lost any grip after two months of very intensive use.

As a summary, we can say that these climbing shoes are suitable for medium and high levels, they are comfortable (if you have the time to adapt when having never used such a low profile toe…) and very efficient. In short, a good travelling companion for any vertical adventure.

To learn more, visit the distributor’s website.