GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2007-11-27  | Category: Training    | Comment  
 8a.nu

Training and Performance in Slovenia

After spending one week in Slovenia with all the local hotshots I would like to share some thoughts why this country with less than 2 million inhabitants is totally dominating the female lead competition scene. In the lead WC 2007:
#1 Maja Vidmar, #4 Natalija Gros, #6 Mina Markovic #15 Lucka Franko.

Maja Vidmar in the secret room together with here trainer Roman Krajnik. Here she has trained 6-7 days a week during the last seven years, with a record of 22 straight training days - old interview.

Martina Cufar and Natalija Gros - check the relay interview
Technique
These girls have done more boulder circles than any other females. They very seldom train leading. They train 5 - 7 days per week (Maja trained 22 days in a row this January). This means that they during a week can do up to 2000 boulder moves. They use relatively big foot holds making it possibly to do the drop-knee almost always. Their technique is extremely static. My conclusion of this is that their technique is exactly adopted to the 'boring' routes in the World Cups, where they can do controlled lock-off moves all the way to the top, minimizing the consumption of energy. While they lock-off for the next short move they rest the upper arm with full blood circulation for a second. They seem to be endurance machines but the number one reason for this is their total outstanding technique. Read old article Static vs. dynamic technique.

Martina Cufar being the Role Model
Martina Cufar (old interview) has been competing successfully between 1992 - 2006 and in 2001 she won the World Championship and the IFSC world ranking. Martina was the idol of the youngsters and later the inspirator showing the up comers that it was possibly to win. Marina is always co-operative and ready for interaction and she actually started the relay interview at 8a where also Maja and Natalija was interviewed.

Tradition & Trainers
Climbing has for many years been a big sports with also a long alpinist tradition. Small indoor gyms is found in every city. They have had training programs for many years who focus on making exercises for 10 - 17 years old. Most of the girls have had personal trainers for many years, sharing the price money!

Ambition
These girls have an extra ordinary ambition. - Next year I hope to win both the boulder and the lead WC, was the immeadeate answer on my question regarding 2008. They are really very nice but you see it in their eyes that they want to win, no matter what.

Money
The living standad is not so high i Slovenia. Price money can actually make a big difference in the daily life.  

 

8a.nu