9 June 2010

The width of the grades

Debate/Jens: Here is a speculative comparison of climbing grades and performances in other sports in order to discuss the width of grades. Clim-Golf-100m-Half Marathon 8a = +0 = 12.0 = 1.30 8b = +4 = 11.2 = 1.20 8c = +7 = 10.5 = 1.12 9a = 10 = 10.1 = 1.06 9b = 12 = 09.8 = 1.03 There is a huge difference/gap between a soft 8c and a hard 8c. Routes/Boulders that we find harder as it took longer time to do are often the same grade. It is often a a miss-understanding that just because it was harder a higher grade is suggested. Probably this is the best explanation to the grade inflation during the 00-ies. Clickon the picture to see a suggestion for howthe Time Comparison grading works, i.e. as in the example above for Adam Ondra. 9b = 15 days, 9a+ = 3 days, 9a = 3rd go, 8c+ = flash, 8c = onsight.
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