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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-02-19  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  

The History of (Sport) Climbing   (8) 02/12/09

The Development of Equipment, Wikipedia
1910 The first Climbing Carabiner
1927 The first rock drill and expansion bolts1955 John Gill Introduces Chalk
1975 First sticky shoe on the market, (EB and Asolo etc)
1991 The belay device GriGri
1990s The Crash Pad commercialized

The history of competition climbing   (16) 29/11/09

Sources: IFSC and Arco Rockmaster. A long version will be presented in the 8a yearbook, Comments?
1985 1st official competition, Bardonecchia: Stefan Glowacz
1986 Arco: Patrick Edlinger and Catherine Destivelle in front of 10 000 spectators and seven TV channels
1987 1st Arco Rock Master: Lynn Hill & Glowacz
1988 World series: Jerry Mofatt
1989 1st World Cup, Leeds: Moffat and Erbesfield
1991 1st World Champion, Frankfurt: Francois Legrand & Susi Good
1992 1st Youth Championships, Basel: Sarkany, Bibik, Petit etc
1999 1st Bouldering WC, overall: Christian Core and Stéphanie Bodet

The very start of sport climbing   (13) 08/12/09

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 1978, Jacques Nosley drilled bolts manually on Dingomaniaque, 6c+ in Verdon, as he was rappelling down. Some define this as the very start of the sport climbing era. Previously, hand drilled bolts had been placed on lead by pioneers like, Lamberto Camurri.

The rappelling created a big controversy in the community but nevertheless the sport climbing ethics were quickly spread in Europe and came to USA in 1983. Picture from the French magazine, Alpinisme in 1979, the Dingomaniaque!