"Stick it" - "No pain no gain"


Friday, 19 February

Training/Jens: "Stick it", i.e. a dynamic landing and hanging on to the hold until the fingers cut loose creating friction pain, is what make the difference. Intermediate climbers, normally let go unconsciously as there is a risk for pain and they (we) would immediately gain 1 - 2 grades just by fighting as hard as the top climbers. No training is needed it is just to go, "a muerte", as Andrada says. "No pain, no gain".

The "Stick it" fight does also include overloading the lower hand until the crimping position collapses or the fingers cut loose. Of course, you can reduce the load on the fingers by using a better technique etc but in the end it is the 100 % dedication challenging our fingers that makes the difference.

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