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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-06-09  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
 8a.nu

Training/Jens: The ideal time to rest in between attempts varies between 1 (for one move boulders) to 90 minutes (after long endurance routes), so there is impossible to give precise advices. However, in general climbers should rest much longer than they are used to. Adam Ondra usually rests up to one hour after being pumped and if you really opt for your best chances you should not rest less. Of course, for having best long time progress and having most fun, do not bother about the clock. But if you are desperate to send, rest at least one hour to be in your best physical shape. Mentally, you will just get more motivated the longer the clock ticks and your frustration for not climbing sets in. When it comes to bouldering where the goal often is to have as many attempts as possible during a day. This actually depends on your ability to increase the rest in between the first attemts during the day.

8a.nu