2 May 2007

red river gorge

                                                                             Red River Gorge

Article by Michael Schaub and Karla Gandiaga

02_thomas_schmid_gods_own_stone.jpg
Thomas Schmid on one of his first tries of “God’s Own Stone” (8b+) that he later redpointed on his 5th go. This line is the hardest of several hard routes on the beautiful Gold Coast main wall.
01_daniel_schmid_paradise_lost.jpg
Daniel Schmid is setting up for the already classic arête of “Paradise Lost” (8a) at the Purgatory. This crack is an example for the recent developments in the Southern Region that include some excellent lines.
06_ajay_mehra_golden_boy.jpg
Ajay Mehra on “Golden Boy” (8a) at the Gold Coast.
08_madness_cave.jpg
As shown on page 20 of the 8a yearbook 2006, one of the most famous walls at the Red: the Madness Cave at the Motherload, offering spectacular routes like “Transworld Depravity” (8b+), “Omaha Beach” (8b+), “Last of the Bohicans” (8b), “BOHICA” (8a), and “Flour Power” (8a). Look closely and you’ll see the lines of chalked holds.
03_ajay_mehra_blood_bath.jpg
No yellow card due to short slacking? No flapper from the sharp pocket? Ajay Mehra focusing on “Blood Bath” (7b+) in the cave of the Bob Marley Crag.

Quick facts:

  • Sandstone climbing area in eastern with well over hundred crags spread out in the
  • More than 1700 routes*
  • ~ 800 sport routes, ~ 770 trad routes, and ~ 80 mixed routes*
  • Easier than 6a: ~ 95 sport routes*
  • 6a – 6c+: ~ 340 sport routes*
  • 7a – 7c+: ~ 300 sport routes*
  • 8a and harder: ~ 50 routes*
  • Best climbing season: fall


Deep in the forests of , the Red River Gorge awaits you with loads of climbing on great quality sandstone, ranging from strongly featured to absolutely blank. Many routes are well overhung, offer lots of exposure and will pump out your forearms. Besides steep, athletic endurance climbs, the Red offers almost all kinds and styles of climbing, with just as many traditional as sport routes.

Many of the popular sport climbs are long and pumpy on slightly to severely overhung walls, with athletic and technical moves on pockets, edges, and crimps.

Popular traditional climbs often follow aesthetic cracks, flakes, dihedrals, and chimneys, demanding plenty of technique and stamina.

The recent addition of very hard lines, like Lucifer (8c+), might make this area more interesting for top level climbers. However, due to the high density of excellent routes in the seventh French grade, it probably suits best those climbers trying to push towards 8a.

Why travel to the Red?

Variety of climbing: The Red is famous for long and steep routes on great rock, so make sure to bring some stamina. However, you will also find short, bouldery routes and many climbs that require precise technique and balance, rather than stamina. Vertical crimp-climbs and delicate slabs together with easier climbs on walls covered with pockets, huecos, and edges make up for much more variety than one might expect after just seeing pictures of the Motherloads’ madness cave.

Number of routes: The lines on all the different cliffs provide for a lifetime of climbing.

New developments: Ray Ellingtons’ complete guide to the Red River Gorge was published in 2005 and describes 1311 routes on 104 cliffs. Now, just two years later, there are 1732 routes on 139 cliffs. A second edition of the guidebook will be available in September 2007.

Onsight friendly: White chalk on sandstone always makes for good tick marks. If you arrive with good stamina, you should get a reward for the training.

Traditional climbing: If you have some experience placing pro, you can set out for great trad climbing at the Red. There are few multipitch climbs, but many of the single pitch routes offer exposure and, possibly, leg shaking that will keep your adrenaline up for days. Numerous classic lines with perfect finger cracks, nasty offwidths, and demanding flaring cracks make for a complete experience and also offer solitude on busy weekends. Beware of sandbagged 5.8 and 5.9 climbs!

Setting: Forests covered in rhododendrons surrounding little creeks make a beautiful canvas for the cliffs whose color ranges from dark grey to bright orange.

Miguels Pizza Place: If you’re not impressed by the fact that it is a climbers-only campground and a great place to hang out and meet other climbers, just try Miguel’s pizza, his pasta dishes, salads, or breakfast omelets… and you’ll know why I need to go back soon!

Euro high: If you’re a euro, just check out the current exchange rate!

Why not!

Lower grade climbs: Despite continuous development there is still a somewhat low density of sport climbs easier than 6a. Furthermore, very few of them stay dry in rainy conditions.

Highest grade climbs: Good for you, if this is an issue: There are several open projects besides lines of up to 8c+. Yet, with a number of about 22 climbs harder than 8a, there is a somewhat limited choice for elite climbers.

You don’t like steep climbs and lots of air.

When?

Year-round climbing is possible, yet summers can be hot and humid, spring might have a lot of rain, and winters can be quite cold. The best season is the fall.

Where?

The Red is located in eastern just some miles outside the little town Slade and about a one hour drive southeast of . Closest airports are in , , and .

Places to stay?

The most popular place among climbers is the climbers-only campground at Miguel’s Pizza place. The incredibly nice family together with their climber-dirtbag employees will provide you with great food and a variety of climbing gear. There is also a selection of other campgrounds, hostels, motels, and cabins in the proximity.

What’s coming up?

The annual Rocktoberfest of the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition has been paired up with the Petzl Rock Trip: 12 – 14 of October, 2007

http://www.rrgcc.org/events.php

Links:

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