23 January 2015

Railay Beach Additions

This will be gone once the new hotel is set up.
LAO LIANG ISLAND
KO YAO NOI ISLAND - 
CHONG PLI, below CHICKEN ISLAND
Railay Beach Additions,
by Michael Weitsman and Björn Alber

Even before  the work to put a wall around the interior part of Tonsai this season, there have been some common and constant problems that have affected the status of Railay Beach as a 'climbers paradise'.  Three noticeable problems:

1. Tonsai Tummy - Half of the climbers getting sick from food and/or dirty water.

2. The cesspool of stagnant 'dirty water' under the ladder climbs on Tonsai next to Freedom Bar.

3. And the copious amounts of garbage scattered throughout the Tonsai interior.

The current state on Tonsai does not mean the end of southern Thailand as the best winter climbing destination.  In fact, it has improved significantly in the last few years.  Staying on the mainland offers the climber an opportunity to climb at some amazing new crags.  As well, Railay and Tonsai are simply crags with a boat approach for those of us staying on the mainland.

LAO LIANG ISLAND
A private island resort located a few hours south of Tonsai; beautiful isolated island and beach, great sea for swimming and snorkeling, climbs on the beach less than two minutes from your two room/two bed with fan and light tent; exploratory DWS without boat traffic, no crowds, great for 4-5 days. The climbing is right off the beach here and never more than a few minute stroll from your tent.  There is also some great bouldering in the nice range of grades from 5-7C.  Possibly the best 6C in Thailand (Golden Triangle) is located down the beach here. Many climbers come here and spend much more time swimming, snorkeling and kayaking (and relaxing) then they planned. It is the perfect combination of a relaxation/beach climbing holiday

KO YAO NOI ISLAND
Between Krabi and Phuket; stunning location in PHang Nga Bay, island of 4 000 locales, low-key tourist scene, winter home of a number of old-school Railay/Tonsai climbers, some amazing crags that are only accessible by boat, some crags accessible by an adventurous motorbike ride. Over 100 routes.  Great for 2-4 weeks

MAINLAND
The real future of southern Thailand climbing. Centered around Spirit Mountain in Chong Pli (10 minutes from Ao'Nang) which has bungalows onsite, about 100 routes on the mainland now, all grades, all styles, endless potential, quiet location but only 10 minutes from the beach and downtown ao nang, great local cuisine.  It is the perfect combination of a relaxation/beach climbing holiday.

Shangri-La
 the newest addition to the mainland, this crag offers spectacular views towards Ko Yao noi and ko Phi Phi as it resides above treeline.  From a 3 pitch grade 5 to a few projects that will check in at 8 (?), this crag offers a great adventurous sport climbing experience.  Do not miss the Mavericks Sector which offers climbing similar to Cat Wall, Teenage Rebellion (a spectacular crack that goes at 7a) and Nam Wao (one of the better 7c's in the kingdom).

As well, it is very easy to go to Railay or Tonsai for the day. You can also have a nice kayak trip from Ao'nang to the nearby located Ao'nang tower where you can climb a  steep exposed multi pitch (90) m in the shade from noon or take a long-tail boat to Chicken Island where one of the worlds most spectacular multi pitch is waiting to be climbed (4 pitch, 90 m with a horizontal 15 m roof).

0 comments
Favorites