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 By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2011-11-15  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment  
 8a.nu

Training/Jens: It is easy to lose power in your lower hand as you look up and put all your focus on sticking the next hold. Try this experiment.  Look at the fingers of your lower hand, and lock off.  You will be surprised how much power you have but are wasting, just because you are so focused on grabbing the next hold.

All top climbers do this automatically.  It may take a lot of training before you can put your focus and power on your lower hand, as all your concentration is on landing the next hold.

While you are pushing hard it is almost impossible to remember to do this.  So ask your friend to say, "Left, Right...etc". 

This works best doing semi-dynamic moves from pinches and side pulls.

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