15 November 2011

Define/Understand Forearm Training

Training/Jens: Doing 10-15 metres routes indoors could initially be called power-endurance training. You normally get a mild pump, that only takes minutes to get rid of. After multiple routes, you feel a more burning pump, and you never fully recover. At that point we are talking endurance training. A boulderering session means power training. Instead of a pump you feel fatigue and sour. If you don't rest enough you will enter the power-endurance stage. Volume training means climbing on easy terrain, to maximize blood circulation. This is how you build capillaries in your forearms. It should feel like an extended warming pump, that keeps your forearm in perfect condition. Recruitment training is doing 1-2 moves to teach your muscles to use a higher percentage of their fibers. It is often done on a campus board. This is only for experienced climbers who want to work on a specific gripping strength. Other definitions are possible. Also, the forearm sensation often differs between climbers based on their training experience. In general, if you cannot get rid of the burning pump in your forearm, you should stop your session. Next time you train try to work with a lower load or longer rest periods.
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