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 By: LA Gilberg  | Date: 2007-11-27  | Category: Other    | Comment  
 8a.nu

Climber of the year 2007-10-17

 

  1. (1) Usobiaga
    #1 8a Lead:
    #1 WC Lead:
    #2 World Champion
    #1 Dima Rock Master
    http://www.patxiusobiaga.com/
    La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Ternua, Kirolgi

    Patxi has competed since the mid 90’s and he has been runner up in the three last world championships. Since 2003, he has done 44 straight WC and overall he has been: 4 – 5 – 6 – 1 and 2 in 2007. Outdoors he has done more than 20 onsights 8b+ and harder. Since a year boyfriend and trainer to #46 Irati Anda. – This is a very good but tough challenge for me. You know, previously I just focused on my self in the gym now it is like a battle of frustration for me. Very hard indeed but I do like it. She is tough but truly wonderful.

  2.  (9) Graham
    #3 8a Lead:
    #3 8A Boulder:
    Petzl, Prana, BEAL, 5.10

    Dave has been the 8a Climber of the year five years out of seven. Last year he was injured for four months. But besides from that he has more or less 72 straight months of being the superior combined 8Aa ranking leader.

    Dave is very outspoken with opinions and beta on all the hard routes/boulders in the world. He is something like a genius, as he can describe and display, in detail, all the hard sequences including how his friends do them. Strong ideas on ethics and grades. He was actually the first person who stopped the inflation grades in bouldering, downgrading some 15 of the hardest ascents he had done. Dave has a very strong interest and passion for the climbing community and he says that we have to make climbers ‘mature’ when it comes to ethics and grades. 8a thinks that Dave is a very good role-model and inspiring climber who always creates headline.

    A funny thing is that in all interviews and whoever he is talking to, he always says he is not strong. It is like a mantra that – I am not as strong as the rest of the gang. He says it so often and with a such sincere meaning that you actually understand that this must be his inner feeling. – I am so weak so I could kill myself! That is what you hear while he is working the crux’.

  3.  (8) Maja Vidmar -85 SLOVENIA
    #3 8a Lead:
    #2 WC: Lead
    #3 World Champion
    #13 European Boulder Champion
    http://www.majavidmar.com/

  4. (1) Chris Sharma -81 USA
    #1 Salt Lake Boulder
    Three degrees of seperation, 9a
    Florida, 8b+ OS
  5. (10) Ramon J Puigblanque -81 SPAIN
    #3 8a Lead:
    #1 World Champion
    #3 WC Lead:
    #1 Serre Chevalier & Arco Rock Master

  6. (19) Adam Ondra -93 CHECH REPUBLIC
    #3 8a Lead:
    #1 World Youth Champion
    #1 European Youth Cup

  7.  (17) Dai Koyamada -76 JAPAN
    8A Boulder:

  8. (13) Dani Andrada -75 SPAIN

  9. (4) Eiter
    Claudio Cafe, 8c+
    Bodybuilding, 8c
    Nobody is perfect, 8c
    #1 Dima Rock Master
    The best female competition climber ever with 32 WC victories in total. A very sweet always smiling little girl who you wouldn’t think could do 40 pull-ups.

  10. (49) Ethan Pringle -86 USA
    8a Lead:
    8A Boulder::
  11. (7) Tomás Mrazek -82 CZECH REP.
    #4 8a Lead:
    #4 WC Lead:
    #4 WC Boulder:
    #3 World Champion
    #3 European Boulder Champion
    http://www.tomasmrazek.com/
    Ocún, Rock Pillars

  12. (5) Charlotte Durif -90 FRANCE
    #1 8a Lead:
    #10 World Champion
    #1 World Youth Champion
    #1 Serre Chevalier
    #5 WC Lead:

  13. (12) Kilian Fischhuber -83 AUSTRIA
    #1 WC Boulder: 2 – 3 – 1 – 4 – 1 – 4 – 2
    #17 WC Lead: 24 – 11 – 21 – 18 - 11

  14.  (15) Natalija Gros -84 SLOVENIA
  15.  (14) Daniel Woods -89 USA
    #1 USA Bouldering
    #2 USA Lead
  16. (6) Jorg Verhoeven -85 NETHERLANDS
    #3 World Championship
    #4 WC Lead:

  17. Irati Anda -82 SPAIN
    #7 8a Lead:
    #5 World Champion
    #5 WC Lead. 14 – 7 – 26 – 21 – 4 – 2 – 9 – 2
    #3 Arco Rock Master

  18. (35) Juliette Danion -82 FRANCE
    #1 Europe Boulder Champion
    #1 WC Boulder: 2 – 8 – 9 – 1 – 4 – 5 – 1
    #5 Boulder World Champion

  19.  (29) Anna Stöhr -88 AUSTRIA
    #1 Boulder World Champion
    #1 Arco Rock Master

    Anna only did four comps in total in 2007.

  20.  (11) Josune Bereziartu -72 SPAIN


  21. (34) Cedric Lachat -84 SWITZERLAND
    #6 WC Lead: 4 – 3 – 7 – 4 – 7 – 1
    #3 Lead World Champion
    #3 Boulder World Champion
    Underground, 9a+

  22. (3) David Lama -90 AUSTRIA
    #1 Europe Boulder Champion
    #7 WC lead: 1 – 7 – 25 – 9 – 5 – 4 – 10

  23. (41) Kleman Becan -82 SLOVENIA

  24. (30) Rosta Stefanek -77 CZECH REP.

  25. (55) Paul Robinson -87 USA

  26. (27) Sean McColl -87 CANADA
    8a Lead:
    8Aa Combined:

  27. Laura Griffiths -89 USA
    8A Boulder:

  28. (36) Emily Harrington -86 USA

  29. (48) Tyler Landman -90 UK

  30. (24) Martina Cufar -77 SLOVENIA
    #14 8a Lead:

  31. Dmitry Sharafutdinov -86 RUSSIA
    #1 World Boulder Champion
    #11 World Speed Champion
    #4 European Boulder Champion
    #2 WC Boulder

  32. (33) Olha Shalagina -83 UKRAINE
    #2 Europe Boulder Champ

  33. Magnus Midtbö -88 NORWAY
    #1 European Youth Cup: 2 – 1 – 1 – 1 – 1
    #10 WC Lead: 20 – 17 – 16 – 6 – 6 – 5
    #8 World Lead Champion
    #20 World Boulder Champion

    In the end of the season he move down to Innsbruck to train at Tivoli. It seems that this had an impact to his results.

  34. Martin Stranik -90 CZECH REP.

  35. Michael Fuselier -81 FRANCE
    #3 Serre Chevalier
    Nice to eat you, 9a FA
    50 years of pump, 8c+ FA

  36. Nalle Hukkataival -86 FINLAND
    #4 8A Boulder:
    #2 European Boulder Champion
    #8 WC Boulder
    #2 Arco Rock Master

  37. Mina Markovic -87 SLOVENIA

 

  1. (28) Flavio Crespi -80 ITALY

  2. Muriel Sarkany -74 BELGIUM
    #2 World Champion

  3. (26) Katharina Saurwein -87 AUSTRIA

  4. (55) Chris Webb-Parsons -85 AUSTRALIA

  5. Anne Gray -61 SWITZERLAND

  6. (37) Iker Pou -77 SPAIN
    Gilette, 8B Wazabi, 8B, Begi Puntuan

  7. (16) Sandrine Levet -82 FRANCE

  8. (25) Barbara Bacher -82 AUSTRIA
    #12 8a Lead:
    #15 World Champion
    #15 WC Lead:
    #16 WC Boulder:

  9. (60) Daila Ojeda -81 SPAIN
    #11 8a Lead:

  10. (54) Said Belhaj -81 SWEDEN

  11. (53) Markus Bock -79 GERMANY
    Zugszang, 8c+ FA Odd Fellows, 8c+ FA

  12. Erik Lopez -91 SPAIN

  13. Steve McClure -71 UK

  14. Silvie Rajfova -89 CZECH REPUBLIC

  15. (59) Andrea Szekely -89 USA

  16. Yuka Kobayashi -87 JAPAN

  17. Akiyo Noguchi -89 JAPAN

  18. (21) Olga Bibik -76 RUSSIA

  19. David Gambús -84 SPAIN

  20. Gareth Perry -73 UK
    Berezina, 7C Blindfolded

  21. Kevin Jorgeson -84 USA
    The beautiful and damned, 8B, 35', Ode to the modern man, 8B+
  22. Tino Lois -78 SPAIN
    #12 8a Lead:

  23. Christophe Zehani -74 FRANCE

  24. (42) Yuji Hirayama -69 JAPAN

  25. Bernhard Schwaiger -75 AUSTRIA

  26. Alexandra Taistra -82 POLEN

  27. (22) Christian Core -74 ITALY

  28. (31) Alex Chabot -81 FRANCE
    PuntX, 9a+

  29. Gabriele Moroni -87 ITALY

  30. Jenny Lavarda -82 ITALY
    #1 Ice WC: 1 – 2 – 1

  31. Sylvain Millet -78 FRANCE
    #11 World Champion
    #14 WC lead:

  32. Alex Puccio -89 USA

  33. Barbara Zangerl -88 AUSTRIA

  34. (52) Dave Macleod -78 UK

  35. Gabor Szekely -90 HUNGARY
    #24 8a Lead:
    #9 8Aa Combined:

  36. (39) Jon Cardwell -89 USA
    #1 USA Lead

  37. Olena Ostapenko -76 UKRAINE

  38. Chris Lindner -84 USA

  39. Layla Mammi -75 GERMANY


  40. Yulia Abramchuk -82 RUSSIA
    #2 Arco Rock Master

  41. Stephane Julien -77 FRANCE
    #4 World Champion
    #5 WC Boulder:
    #6 European Boulder Champion

  42. Akito Matsushima -82 JAPAN
    #12 World Boulder Champion
    #10 WC Lead Japan
    #12 WC Boulder:

  43. (44) Evgeny Krivosheytsev -69 UKRAINE
    #1 Ourey Ice
    #1 Ice World Champion

  44. Tony Lamiche -77 FRANCE, 9a, San ku Kai in Entraigues

  45. Pablo Barbero -81SPAIN
    #29 World Championship

83.  Sonnie Trotter -79 CANADA
The Path, 8c R means mandatory run-outs
www.sonnietrotter.com

84.  (23) Caroline Ciavaldini -85 FRANCE
Alter Ego, 8b OS, Geminis, 8b+

85.  Vasya Vorotnikov -87 USA

86.  Cedric Lo Piccolo -82 FRANCE
The Abysse, 9a

87.  Jarmilla Tyrill -76 AUSTRALIA

88.  Chloé Gratitaux -87 BELGIUM

89.  Alexandra Eyer -81 SWITZERLAND
#12 World Champion
#24 World Boulder Champion

90.  Ekaitz Maiz -? FRANCE

91.  Tatiana Ruyga -78 RUSSIA

92.  Melissa Lippani -75 USA
8A (7C+) Negro Negro

93.  Sachi Anma –89 JAPAN
#1 World Youth Championship

94.  Sang-Won Son -82 JAPAN
#5 World Boulder Champion


95.  Joey Kinder, #21 8a lead

96.  Alex Johnson -? USA
#1 Salt Lake Boulder

97.  Sabine Bacher -84 UK

98.  Fabian Dugit -84 FRANCE
#10 World Champion
#9 WC Lead

 

99.                  Jacinda Hunter -78 USA
Mother of two boys, Kaden (9), Kyler (7), and two girls, Jayne (4), Olivia (2). ‘
My husband and I both work full time as registered nurses.  We try to climb either at the local gym during the week, or in our small basement gym my husband built. We climb mostly outside on the weekends.  My husband Mike, and I take turns going out while the other stays home to watch the kids.  Sometimes we get a babysitter and climb together, but we end up going out together with the kids a lot too.  The girls love to play and run around in the dirt while we climb, and the boys have started to like bouldering.’

100.                  Monique Forestier -73 AUSTRALIA

101.                  Justin Hawkins -77 SOUTH AFRICA
8c Streetfighter, 8B

102.                  Andreas Bindhammer -51 GERMANY
La Rambla, 9a(+), Broadway, 8c+

103.                  Antoine Vandeputte -86 FRANCE
Kheops ss, 8C FA, Gecko assis, 8B+ FA
164 cm

104.                  Johanna Ernst – 92 AUSTRIA

105.                  Christina Schmid -89 AUSTRIA

 

106.        Alex Honnald -85 USA

 

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