26 March 2014

Boreal meeting in Chulilla

By mid March, Boreal gathered some of its most representative athletes in Albarracín and Chulilla in order to get some shots of them climbing with the new climbing shoes which they have recently released. Three nice days spent with the base camp set in the refugio de Chulilla, a place for climbers managed by the once strong Spanish climber, Pedro Pons, together with his girlfriend, Nuria Martí.


Satori, Dharma and Marduk were the new tools of the trade presented which are said to be awesome by the few sponsored athletes who have already been lucky enough to break in on one of these. The very few of us who were invited to the meeting could also try them out as well as enjoying the show provided by climbers like Dani Andrada -the team's alma mater-, Edu Marín, Raquel Hernández, Urko Carmona, Nacho Sánchez, Silvia Vidal, Ignasi Tarrazona, Bruno Macías, Manu Córdova, Alex Germanovych, the British Nathan Lee, James Mchaffie and Jordan Buys, and the Germans Robert Leistner and Julia Winter.


Dani Andrada climbing in the Chorreras sector.

Edu Marín fired this 8c off on his third go.

Raquel Hernández in 'Moon Safari' (7c/+)

Urko Carmona climbing the same route as Raquel in El Balconcito sector.

Nacho Sánchez in 'El Varano', 8A in Albarracín

James McHaffie in the Chorreras sector (Chulilla).

At 8a.nu we took advantage of this great opportunity to have a quick chat with some of the Boreal's sponsored athletes, about what their plans are and what they think of the new climbing shoes. All this is fitted out with some great images shot by David Munilla.



Nacho Sánchez


It seems that this year we haven't heard much about you. Is it that you're training for the World Cup circuit?

Nowadays I'm training for a project in Crevillente and living in Asturias, which means I'm quite far from it. I'm mainly training power-endurance for this project and also for the World Cup. I will not be able to attend all the events but only to a few. There are two WC events which coincide with the Spanish Cup events, so I still don't know what I'm going to do.


What's it like living in Asturias?

Very well. It rains a lot, but the rock dries very fast. So, even if one day it rains, you're going to be able to climb the next day. Since I'm also working, I haven't got all the time which I'd fancy. 


What do you think about the new climbing shoes from Boreal and, out of all of them, which is the one that you like the most?

The one which I've used the most is the Satori. The new climbing shoes line is awesome. We've been testing a prototype and I've been giving some advices on how to improve it. The final result is brilliant.



Raquel Hernández


It seems like the girls' trend in Oliana once they send 'Fish Eye' is to start trying 'Mind Control'... Is this the same for you?

No, I'm already trying a different one in the same sector, but I didn't feel like trying 'Mind Control' since, as both routes are so desired, I already had to queue up to try 'Fish Eye' and I didn't want the same thing to happen now. Maybe in the future, since it's a really good one but not now. 


Are you in a peak performance period, have you just finished your season or still have some good tries left?

I think I still have some good days left before Summer. I feel I'm close to send this route which I'm trying now.


What do you think about the new climbing shoes line from Boreal and which one is your favourite?

The new models have nothing to do with the precedent ones. They're way better! Everything has substantially changed to the better. These are completely different climbing shoes! They've got a way more modern design, they fit the feet and the heels perfectly. It's like if you would be breaking in a glove. Internally, this shoes have got the foot bed and toes anatomically shaped which makes the feet fit perfectly inside them. The outer toe shape is different... it's completely different to the previous ones... It allows for much more precision in really small foot holds and, the Zenith rubber is super sticky with a curved shape which makes them more streamlined.   


YOU'VE GOT TO TRY THEM OUT TO EXPERIENCE THE METAMORPHOSIS THE BOREAL CLIMBING SHOES HAVE GONE THROUGH TO THE BETTER!


  

Edu Marín


Have you thought about competing in the international circuit this season?

I would like to compete in the World Championships, but I don't want to focus too much in the competitions since I've been competing during many years and now I'm motivated for other stuff, such as Big Wall climbing, hard routes, boulder, etc. I've always been super focused on competition climbing, but during the last injury I had I realized that there's other things which motivate me more and I want to do them.


You've recently sent a 9a and you're back in shape for hard climbing. Have you got any other project in mind before Summer?

Yes, I'm trying a 9a+ in Santa Linya which I think I can make quickly. Although the heat is already hitting the cave, I'm not worried since I know I'm fit and if it can't happen now it will be for next Winter. In my mind I see myself doing 9a+ and 9b. Why not??


What is your opinion on the new Boreal climbing shoes line and which is the one that you like the most?

I think that Boreal has been doing quite a lot of research on climbing shoes. They've thrown themselves into their sponsored athletes' opinion, especially into Dani Andrada's, and it's pretty visible that they've released some very nice climbing shoes. 


My favourite are the Dharma. It's a very versatile climbing shoe, quite aggressive, more technical. The rubber has also improved, it's still called Zenith but it's stiffer so it's better in edging -which was what didn't work so well before-. 


I think these are 3 new models which will give people a lot to talk about since they represent a big evolution in Boreal and we are all super happy with them.




At 8a.nu we want to thank Boreal for the invitation and the nice treatment. We're already trying these new climbing shoes, thus expect our review article soon.





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