31 January 2010

Andrada comments Huber ethics

"This week I read an article by Alex Huber in 8a.nu and although I like to keep out of these debates, I decided to show my point of view, which at best will not be shared by everybody.

To begin, I think many web pages are destroying the essence of climbing, creating quarrels, which in most cases don't exist. On the other hand we have a lot of lies that come through these media which are not able to do any kind of review to a completely innocent and respectful public. This way it's created an image of "objective truth" which is totally imaginary, a climbing rankig is built with absolutely no credibility, although most climbers know the truth.

As for the routes and graduation, I think there are easy and hard ones everywhere. Yes, I can agree that the ancient technical routes were harder. But, just for the simple reason that nowadays people climb more in overhanging stuff.

Regarding the lines without repetition, I also have routes which have not been repeated yet. Nevertheless, I think it may be, not only for their hardness, but just cause they have not been tried.

It is just that when there is a place like Santa Linya, with 21 good quality routes from 9a to 9b, with good access and good weather, and that most of the strongest climbers in the world are passing by to climb very oftenly, it seems normal to me that these routes are more repeated, isn't it?!

I also believe that when we speak of some routes and accusations are made, it would be nice if, at least, you have tried them or, at least, you have been under them ...

As for "Action direct" 9a? I think Wolfgang did not give it much importance whether it was 8c+ or 9a. I tried it in 1994 and it is easy to talk without having done it... It has many repetitions and is hard, isn't it?! Surely it is, as it is 10 meters long. Tell me how many 9a of 10 meters are not. It is very difficult, if not impossible, to compare a 10 meters bouldery route with power endurance or endurance routes with 40 or 50 meters.

I don't know but I think that "not everything that glitters is gold".

I could also say many things, like that in many of my routes new holds appear and people keep on thinking that they keep being the same grade. There are things that doesn't make sense... Or the other thing: many climbers have to sell, things that don't exist, like solos that are boulders and many other things ...

In the end, everyone knows what he does. We should be more humble. You are not a hero by the fact that some of your routes had been upgraded. It's said that reality hurts, so what has to be done is to climb, to open more routes and less talking.

Lock off or die forever ..."



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