By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-11-30  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment
Train only your strongest points  (52)

Training/Jens: If you can do 7B closed crimp moves but only 7A open hand moves, most would say that you should train your open hand skill. However, if you focus on your weakest point it is a big risk that, in the short run, your maximum will be 7A+ moves on both closed crimp and open hand.

This can easily be tested on a campus board and the reason for this is that the whole recruited muscle chain is somewhat contra productive in between different skills and the same goes for vertical/steep, high steep/knee drop and balance/dynos etc. As you warm up before your redpoint climb, make sure you opt for similar holds/moves as on the crux.

It should be underlined that in general, especially for young and not so experienced climbers, and competition climber who can not select their challenges, working on your weakest points are crucial for progress in the long run.