By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2010-02-19  | Category: Tips & Tricks    | Comment

Heigth, Weigth and Finger optimization   (5) 01/04/09

Debate/Jens: Different types of rock suite different physical appearances: Height, Weight and Finger sizes. You might be able to optimize your performance by specializing in certain routes/boulders:

Short/Skinny = Long overhanging routes/competitions
Short/Muscular = Very steep bouldering
Tall/Skinny = Long vertical (trad) routes
Tall/Muscular = Vertical bouldering

Of course, there are exceptions: Chris Sharma, Jorg Verhoeven and Josune Bereziartu have performed well in a variety of forms.

Type of rock vs. size of fingers and heigth
Limestone pockets = Children/Women (small fingers)
Limestone tufas = Big hands
Granite lists = Tall (number of lists are often limited=reachy)