19 February 2010

Mental traffic light system

The mental traffic light system   21/12/09
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTraining/Jens: When climbing your brain is active and gives green-yellow-red light to the next move. The hard core climbers are less prone to listen to their mental brake-pedal-system, and use their physical accelerator to push pass through despite the warning (red light).
Every climber would climb 1 - 3 grades harder with a brain like Sharma or Ondra but very few climbers actually focus on the mental game even if the potential improvement is enormous. As all skills, your mental capacity is a fresh product that you have to continue training.

It is relatively easy to train your traffic light system. You just do as many "violations" as possible. Based on your rainbow, focus on moves with a slightly more reddish colour (moves that you think are possible but really hard). If you reach dark red or even purple, you will start to understand how the best climbers feel when they do a 9b crux at the top of a climb.

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