By: Jens Larssen  | Date: 2006-10-09  | Category: Training    | (1) Comment  
 8a.nu

Suddenly you realize that you are only 2-3 weeks away from your next climbing trip or competition. You are not in shape and you want to chicken out or at least spread the word that you will focus on wine and 6a's. However and amazingly, the history tells us that climbing is an unique sport where you can peak very quickly. With some smart tactics over a fortnight with some 5-7 training sessions, you can be back on track enjoying the adrenaline and performing.

The main reason why this works is the muscle memory. You may feel super week, but with some recruitement training you will alert the old muscle fibers. It is like an old bush which you have forgotten to water (train). The roots, the stem and the branches are still there. Just add some water (training) to the system and you will see the leafs rising again. However, you have to be super patience no to chock the fibres with to much water (lactid acid) in the system, as it might kill all the structures.

1.      Blood-circulation:
Focus on as many metres/moves as possible including short rest in between. This training should be super easy just to wake the muscles and to create blood-flow. You should not flood you veins, just open up the system again and avoid lactid acid.

2.      Recruitment:
Recruit your maximum power by doing some campus moves or two-moves boulders. You should do some 50 – 100 moves in the beginning of every session, in order to reconnect the nerve synapses. You will be very motivated as you immediately will get stronger.

3.      Technical adjustments:
Analyse which type of climbing technique is on demand; Crimp/Open Hand, Knee-drop/High step, Steepness etc. You should train the same style that will be challenged.

4.      Stretching & Massage:
If you have been lazy with your training, you are probably more stiff than usual. Do some stretching after the session and while you are climbing. Try to put your feet in unnatural positions which will make you more flexible. It can also be a good idea to get some massage to loosen up and get some good blood-circulation in old injuries.

5.      Equipment:
Check and clean your gear and if needed by some new stuff that might get you some free energy. Get that liquid chalk. You should also try to avoid to much water contact for your fingers as you don't want your fingertips to be soft.

6.      Select routes:
Search the 8a database and topos to find the best routes for you. During a week you will only climb some 10 – 15 climbs at your level. Select the ones that others of your length, sex etc have onsighted.

7.      Diet:
There is little time for loosing weight, however there might be time to clean out the junk food in your system. Be careful of what you are eating and drinking after your training sessions.

8.      Mental training:
Do some exercises when you try to remember and feel some of your best climbing memories. Do it at the bus, when you try sleep etc. Get that good feeling beeing at the top, full of adrenalin.

9.      Lazy & Sleep:
Most of us have a hectic life and use vacations in order to get energy and load the batteries. If you really like to perform during the vacation you have to start loading the batteries two weeks prior to departure. Try the best you can to skip everything that can wait until you get home full of energy. 

10.  Funny weak guys:
Try to avoid competitive training with your antagonists. As the sessions should be soft, go for the the funny and nice looking climbing partners and start to build that confidence you have when you were peaking last summer. 

8a.nu