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8B and 8A+ by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Quintessential 8B in Rocklands. © Chad Greedy In total, she has now done 47 boulders 8A+ to 8B+ and she is runner up in the female ranking game.

"Psyched! Also I did Steak House 8A+ the other day! Not a crazy hard boulder but way outta my style so I’m pretty psyched about it... Gonna try and continue my theme of classic boulders still unclimbed by women."

 
 
Entrevista a Daniel Jung sobre The Recovery Drink 8c+++?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung empezó a probar The Recovery Drink en 2012 junto a Nico Favresse. Al año siguiente también volvió y también cuando Nico hizo la FA, en 2015 y 2017 también hizo largos viajes al remoto Jössingfjord en Noruega pero sin éxito. Este año volvió con más fuerza, tanto que rompió algunos cantos dejando la vía significativamente más difícil. Al final tuvo que prolongar su viaje 4 días más, para poder anotarse la que probablemente es la vía de fisura más dura del mundo. Como Favresse, Daniel ha evitado graduar la vía aunque le haya costado tanto como cualquiera de sus 9a+.

¿Has entrenado específicamente para la vía?
Después del primer viaje hice estiramientos, ya que tuve problemas con un movimiento debido a que estaba muy rígido. También finge unos volúmenes en un muro muy desplomado en el rocódromo Schlüsselstelle. Entrene como descansar en desplomes con empotres de mano abierta, lo que me vino muy bien. Para este último viaje, sabía que era bueno llegar con un montón de fuerza resistencia, así que entrene en bloques muy largos, generalmente por la noche porque hacía mucho calor antes de las 22:00. Entrenar durante el verano ha sido muy duro.

¿Qué es lo que tiene esta vida para hacerte volver durante tres largos viajes?
Lo más importante para hacer la vida sin duda precioso lugar en el que está y el muro tan perfecto que es. Hasta llegar a hacerlo ha llevado un tiempo, pero no hay porque rendirse cuando se está cerca, ¿verdad? Además soy muy malo echándome atrás.

¿Cómo se podría comparar la vía con las vías más duras que has hecho en deportiva?
Realmente no puedo comparar la vía, es única en su estilo, y totalmente diferente a lo que he hecho con anterioridad.

 
 
9a again by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his 17th 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco, which Adam Ondra put up this spring. " It would be a hard 9a if Adam wouldn't find this kneebar after the first section of the route, so it is "just" 9a." (c) Sara Grippo

In the Lead World Cup, the Italian is #2 after having won one event out of four. Currently he is training hard often in Innsbruck in order to prepare for the upcoming World Championship next month.

 
 
Two golds and bronzes for Japan in Youth B Bouldering  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapan continues to dominate Bouldering in the Moscow Youth World Championship. In Youth B, they got two golds and two bronzes in great finals with almost perfect route setting were all boulders were done. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Rei Kawamata 44 - Natsuki Tanii 34 (6)
2. Thomas Podolan 34 (4) - Naile Meignan 34 (8)
3. Nukui Ryoei 34 (5) - Hana Kudo 24

Rei, who also won last year, did his first 8B+ this summer. He has no trainer and his training is just made of my working and repeating the high class boulders at his gym.

 
 
Tráiler de Honnold Free Solo  Facebook
 

Alex Honnold fijó un nuevo estándar de escalada con la ascensión sin cuerda de los 30 largos de Freerider 7c (+) en Yosemite el pasado año. En su libreta podemos ver, incluyendo 949 ascensiones, que ha comentado: "En solo! 3:56 en la vía. El final del sueño de mi vida. Vaya experiencia. Me lo he apuntado como un bloque. Gracias 8a!"

El estreno de este documental de National Geographic titulado Free Solo, is será estrenado en teatros el 28 de septiembre.

 
 
Avezou & Rogora winners in Youth A Bouldering  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of strange finals for Youth A in bouldering. A bit too easy for the boys and too hard for the girls. All three medalists among the male got almost identical results as they all did four tops in just five tries. The two best did take the four zones in five tries meanwhile the bronze guy needed five tries.

For the female, only two of the boulders were done and the winner, Laura Rogara flashed them both. (c) Eddie Fowke Complete results

1. Laura Rogora 23 - Sam Avezou 44 (5/4)
2. Lucka Rakovec 14 (4) - Eneko Carretero 44 (5/4)
3. Futaba Ito 14 (5) - Nathan Martin 44 /5/5)

Overall, Japan has been the best country in bouldering with one gold and two bronzes. The big sensation is that Austria has not had one finalists!

 
 
Slaney & Narasaki take first bouldering golds  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHanna Slaney, who never has stood on a IFSC podium before, won the first bouldering gold in Moscow after having been #12 in the qualification and #4 in the semi. Among the boys, Meichi Narasaki, who was second last year in both Lead and Boulder, arrived on top. It was a perfect start thrilling to end with perfect route setting by Jacky Godoffe and his crew. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 

Excellent start of the Youth World's in Moscow with great boulders on volumes and 02.30 PM GMT+3 (Euro 13.30) the junior finals in bouldering starts. Among the male, three Japaneses were ahead in the semifinal and for the female, there were two from Slovenia and one from Japan in the top.

In the Youth A category, with the finals on Sunday, two Japanese girls stood out and among the boys, Sam Avezou, who was #16 in Speed, was the only one with four tops in the semi.

 
 
8c and 8b+' by Chaehyeon Seo (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChaehyeon Seo, who last week did her first 9a, has done Wacka Flocka 8c and the two 8b+'in Rifle; Simply redlined and Zulu. In the 8a ranking game, the 14 year old is #2.

Chaehyeon's father, Jungkuk was #10 in an Ice WC in 2015 and in 2016 he did an 8b+ in Red River Gorge. Back home in Korea, he is a youth trainer in his own gym in Korea. Her mother, Chigon is also an 8a climber and has participated in some World Cups.

 
 
Primer 8A+ para Maria Davies Sandbu  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu ha blocado su primer 8A+, Steinbukken en Dirdal, después de haber hecho previamente 15 o 8A's. (c) Martin Mobråten

"Lo habré probado probablemente unos 15 días durante los últimos 3 años. He aprendido a ser paciente y a darle a muerte sin importarme las condiciones. Algunos días fueron épicos en cuanto al tiempo, la mitad de los días llovía y Martin tenía que secar los cantos mientras iba escalando. Un día, incluso le pusimos una lona por encima al bloque para mantenerlo seco. A veces el trabajo te da su recompensa.

 
 
El Mundial Juvenil en Moscú ya ha comenzado  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEl Campeonato del Mundo Juvenil ha arrancado hoy en Moscú con las clasificatorias en la categoría Junior de Bloque, con resultados actualizados aquí. En total, 699 participantes de 5 continentes y 43 países participarán en este evento. Calendario completo del 9 al 16 de agosto.

"Todas las finales y semifinales serán retransmitidas en directo en la página de la Federación Internacional de Escalada Deportiva IFSC, y también puedes seguir los resultados en directo a través de la aplicación “YWCH 2018”. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
The Recovery Drink 8c+++? para Daniel Jung  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung publica en su Insta que ha hecho la primera repetición de la vía que abrió Nico Favresse The Recovery Drink en Jössingfjord en Noruega, en 2013. Nico no dijo nada acerca del grado de esta monstruosa fisura de 35 m aunque sí dijo que sin duda era la más dura que había hecho jamás. De hecho, 8c+ o más parece ser el consenso de muchos escaladores fuertes que la han probado.

Comparando la vía con otras de deportiva de 9a, está debería ser tan dura o incluso más que otras pero parece que los grados de fisura (hasta 8c+) trabajan en otra escala. Una de las razones puede ser porque en fisuras, los seguros se colocan mientras se escala, y en escalada deportiva eso se fue perdiendo en el principio de la era moderna. Hay que decir que Daniel ha hecho La Rambla 9a+, y además puso todos los seguros desde abajo, mientras que Nico dejó algunos en las zonas fáciles diciendo que alguien lo haría más puramente que él. (c) Fred Moix

 
 
8B (A+) para Alizee Dufraisse  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizee Dufraisse ha blocado The Arch 8B (A+) en Rocklands. En el ranking de 8a, esta exitosa escaladora de competición que además cuenta en su haber con La Reina Mora 9a (8c+), es 6ª.

"Empecé a probarlo este año y me ha llevado 8 días. Fue difícil manejar la situación con mi cerebro ya que estuve cerca de hacerlo, pero las temperaturas eran muy altas. Estoy muy feliz de haberlo hecho hoy finalmente. ¡Ahora ya puedo probar nuevos bloques!"

 
 
9a FA de nuevo para Thibault Lair  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThibault Lair ha hecho su tercera FA de 9a en Bielsa, My little princess, después de 15 días de trabajo.

"Comparte la misma entrada que "Soul surfer". La primera parte es un gran 8c. Entonces llegas a un reposo malo antes de atacar la sección dura qué son unos 15 m de lucha de pura resistencia. Para mí, la segunda parte es también 8c. Gracias a Daniel Fuertes por equiparla."

 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
nik
 
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Bram Honorez

souvenir 8A/+ Chironic
o
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/
Geyikbayırı
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Lando Peters

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
8A #19 for Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 
0.1 point for touching/controlling the Top in Bouldering  (2) Facebook
As you probably know, based on the change in the IFSC bouldering rule, it is possibly to present the results as points. Last year I was part of a Working Group in IFSC invited to a meeting in Munich where I suggested one bonus point for a flash as well as increase to two zones.

One reason for this is to make competitions more fair based on how good the athletes did climb. Two zones will also reduce the risk for going home empty handed with zero zones, aka 0 points as happened often for 10 % of the field like in Moscow YWC.

Another way, or in a combination, to make the comps more fair and understandable for the spectators could be to give 0.1 point for touching (or controlling) the final hold with one hand. Alternatively, you can define the second zone as controlling the top with one hand.

It is simply not fair that one climber who just reaches the zone gets as good score as, or possibly even better, compared to the one who climbs several moves longer and falls matching the final hold. It should be mentioned that such unfairness happens more often for the ones further down the list who do not make several tops.
 
Total Japanese domination in Bouldering  Facebook
In total, Japan did get three golds and four bronzes. The runner up is France with one medal in each color and a total of five finalists. The big sensation is that Austria has just have had one athlete in the final which can be compared with 12 for Japan.

In 2017, Japan got nine youngsters on the podium and a total of ten finalists. The country that has dropped the most in 2018, is USA who got two golds and another two medals in 2017. This year, they just did get two in 6th position.
 
Dani Arnold sets new Speed record above Chamonix  Facebook
 
7C+ by Keegan Sullivan (8)  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKeegan Sullivan started climbing being four years old and did his first 7A being six years old. Now two years later he has done his first 7C+, Freedom Fries in Grayson Highlands State Park. Even more impressive is his grade pyramid made out of 101 recorded ascents. His father Brandon says the family focus is outdoors and just the last year they have traveled 29 times to twelve different locations, also including two younger brothers also pushing hard.

Our family was brand new to climbing just four years ago. Keegan would not be climbing at this level without the amazing support we have received from our local community. His gyms, coaches and teammates keep climbing fun. Our friends, the Collin and Kelly families, introduced us to crags, climbing technique, competitions, and to an even larger community.

Perhaps the thing that separates Keegan most from other youth climbers is his mature ability to project challenging problems. When arriving at a boulder, Keegan will set out the pads, clean and brush holds, and work all of the moves. Then he will meticulously link sections of the boulder until he finds a nice flow in the sequence. We routinely see him work problems with intense focus and persistence, sometimes lasting hours and multiple
sessions.”
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 
Cody Roth under the radar interview  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClimbing has presented an interesting under the radar interview with Cody Roth (34). He has been a very dedicated climber half his life although not following the mainstream and thus staying under the radar in spite recently doing his first 9a+, being #6 in his first Lead WC being 19 years old, made the first repeat of a Manolo 8b+ and also done hard sport routes on trad. Insta mainly non-climbing focus.

Having grown up in the outskirts of Albuquerque, New Mexico, I’m not used to being around a lot of people, so crowded crags don't make me happy,” Roth told Climbing over the phone from his seasonal home in one of the world’s most remote places, Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. There he does rope access work in oil fields seven days a week, 12 to 16 hours a day, for 24 weeks a year, before taking the rest of the year off to climb with his wife."

Now Cody and his wife Melissa have started to work for Vertical-Life and they will be moving to Brixen in the autumn working with sales, development and content. Just recently, they introduced the first U.S. climbing gym to the VL app, Crux Climbing Center, in their current home town Austin.
 
Ghisolfi agrees to 8a flash ethics  Facebook
Stefano Ghisolfi has published some interesting thoughts on his Insta which goes in hand with the 8a suggested ethics.

"About my recent post, I think if 2 routes share a part it is not possible to flash both. So, my second one it is not flash, but first go! But I think there should be some exceptions, like if the part in common is much easier that doesn't add any difficulty, maybe it is possible to consider both flash. The most important thing is to be very fair with yourself and the others and tell clearly everything you do."
 
IN OWN MATTER: Designers and Software Engineers wanted  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureProject and After Sales Manager
Are you an organisational and communication talent? As a Project and After Sales Manager at Vertical Life, you will work closely with different divisions of our team, above all with Sales, Support and Marketing. Among other tasks, you will be responsible for account management and support, after sales marketing, relevant promotional activities and performing other tasks needed to ensure customer satisfaction. You will also be involved in the strategic communication planning and in the creation of campaigns. As our company is growing fast, new ideas are welcome and your self initiative is required.
Job and application details

UX / UI Designer
Are you enthusiastic about user experience design? Do you enjoy the challenge of transforming strategic customer journeys into appealing interface design? Vertical-Life is looking for an experienced UX Designer for mobile and web projects. You will be joining our highly motivated team of climbers, business strategists, product managers, designers, engineers, and merchandisers. You will be working on user experience strategies for our existing apps and websites as well as for new projects from the ground up.
Job and application details

Software Engineer Mobile
As a software engineer with focus on iOS and/or Android mobile development, you will develop next-generation, large scale mobile apps. You support our team in existing projects, as well as manage individual products, priorities, deadlines and deliverables. You develop, test, deploy, maintain and enhance software solutions.
Job and application details

Applications to: careers@vertical-life.info
 
Schenk and his crew in Céüse up to 9a  Facebook
 

Diego Marsella
Entrenando para WC 2009. Diego Marsella.A 3 meses del titanio en el craneo.

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