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The 8B+ send including interview with Oriane Bertone (12)  Facebook
 

 
 
Golden Shadow 8B+ by Oriane Bertone (12)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has set a new standard in bouldering by doing Golden Shadow 8B+ in Rocklands. Including a 7C+ flash yesterday, the 12 year old is #2 in the ranking game once it is added to her scorecard. EpicTV is preparing a video and an interview to be released later today.

The previous 8B+ youngest world record holder was Ashima Shiraishi who did the same boulder when she was 13 years old. These two girls are quite superior to the boys as Adam Ondra (most probably) has the record being 15 years old.

It should be noted that some have said Golden Shadow is soft and five out of the 27 ascents have marked it as 8B so it is border line to be reported as 8B (+). Nevertheless, as Ashima did the same boulder it is in any case a new record.

Including the 8C by Shiraishi when she was still 14 years old and Angy Eiters 9b last year, we can once again say that climbing is unique when it comes to gender and age equality for physical sports.

 
 
Ondra/Markovic and Stöhr/Moroni win in Milan  (2) Facebook
 

The first big climbing competition in 2018 was hold in Milan and the winners in Lead were Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic and in Boulder Anna Stöhr and Gabriele Moroni. Runner-ups were Laura Rogara and Stefano Ghisolfi and Kilian Fischhuber and Katha Saurwein.

The World Cup 2018 starts in Switzerland with Bouldering 13/4.

 
 
Stay updated on ascents in crags and friends  Facebook
 

"My Updates" in the left column list the ascents from Scorecard and Crags you are interested of. Just go to your friends scorecard and add it and the same you can do with crags, where you also can specify which grade filter wanted.

 
 
8c+ FA in Siurana by Tomas Ravanal  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTomas Ravanal, who last week did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, has made the FA of Sin acido clorhidico 8c+, in the same famous El Pati sector. It just took the Chilean ten tries to do the almost 40 meter route which shares the start with 20 Años Después 9a. El Pati is one of the most famous hard core sector in the world and Tomas just made the eleventh 8c+ and harder.

"Dani changed some bolts and it is a perfectly fine. The route was clean when I started to try it! I don't really know why anyone has climbed before."

 
 
8A by Max Bertone (10) in Rocklands  (12) Facebook
 

Max Bertone has for the third year in a row done an 8A, Dirty Epic in Rocklands. If he wants to stay on par with his two year older sister Oriane, he needs to do an 8B within a year. Bear in mind that climbers normally avoid the 30+ temperature in Rocklands during the summer, meaning they can only climb very early and very late during the day. In between, the children have schooling. Do not miss the great video!

 
 
Old dog (49) tries to do 8b+ with new tricks  Facebook
 

 
 
Canada Youth World Champions - Cancelled  Facebook
 

IFSC has sent out info to the federations that the Youth World Champion in Canada has been cancelled. Officially, IFSC have not reported it but they hope to use the same dates 7 - 19 August in another location.

 
 
8A and 8A+ by Kintana Iltis (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKintana Iltis has done Dirty Epic 8A and Tea With Elmarie 8A (+) in Rocklands. Her father gives us the story and says that the big goal is the Youth World Championship in Canada.

"Kintana begin to climb in Reunion Island (fr) when she was 9 years old. At first time it was a choice imposed by the shark crisis in Réunion because Kintana prefer to surf and was detected for competition. Now she's 14 years old, very happy to climb in natural crags, routes and boulders and gifted for competition. She like sports challenges.

We started climbing family trips in India at Hampi when Kintana was 10 years old. Since then, we are finding places for climbing in our holidays. South Africa is not far from Réunion Island, so it's a good place for us to go with friends to search goods news experiences in routes or boulders."

 
 
Another 8B+ FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

 
 
Get better endurance by resting in the top jug  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHolding your arms above the head, as you are doing most of the time when you are climbing, improves the blood circulation. Once your are lowered down, your forearms are at risk to be flooded which will reduce the blood circulation.

In order to get better endurance and reduce the time until your next burn, you better stay at the top jug and rest for a minute. Make your partner take most of the load in the rope and shake out as normal. This will reduce the risk for the fore arm to get flooded and optimize the blood circulation.

If you fall, you could immediately grab the rope with straightened arm pretty hard and once you are at the ground, you can shake out by grabbing some jugs you can reach from the floor.

 
 
Jakob Schubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+(8C)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has flashed Chris Sharma’s Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova del Ocell, giving it a personal, ”Low end” 8B+ grade instead of 8C. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

During the last week Jabob also did Stoking the Fire 9b and Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya.

Previously, Daniel Woods has flashed an 8C, Entlinge which nowadays are considered a soft 8B+. Also Adam Ondra has flashed a boulder which in the beginning was considered 8C, Jade.

 
 
Which is the best crash pad - 2018?  (2) Facebook
 


 
 
9b again by Stefano Ghisolfi  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9b the last 12 months, La Capalla in Siurana which Adam Ondra put up six years ago. Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana

Last year, the Italian was #2 in the World Cup after a steady progress in the ranking and as a matter of a fact, his scorecard shows the same up going trend. In the latest 9a and harder overall statistics, the 24 year old jumps to #4 and including his scorecard, he should be considered the second best sport climber in the world right now.

Interesting is also that he did win the Italian Speed Championship some years ago, and has been #6 in a Boulder WC, so Stefano is one of the contenders also for a medal in 2020.

 
 
8C FA by Tamás Zupán  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTamás Zupán has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star Wars film comes."

It was an old project close to the village where I live. It is a big roof. It is hard to climbing here because it is often wet. I tried for three years. I climbed a stand start version (the force awakens 8A+) last year. After I did a lot of training with weight vest on a big overhang. And now i managed to do it, so I'm very happy.

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Tomas Ravanal  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Ravanal has after some 25 sessions done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, video. In July 2016 he left Chile and has since been living in a van and also doing WCs with #14 as his best result.

"I have been climbing in Siurana for quite a long time, and after a did Estado Critico 9a, I only think of lL Rambla. I think the route suit me very good and I was working during two months . I did not climb every day and every session in La Rambla. I always tried to not give it so much importance until I realized it would be possible to climb it for me.

The last month I have been doing redpoint tries. For me it was a dream when i started climbing in 2005 with the video of Dani Andrada. Now I am 33 years old and I achieved one more dream and feeling like I am learning a whole new stile of climbing.

 
 
9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

 
 
9a FA by Harry Edwards (17)  Facebook
 

R & I reports about Harry Edwards having done the FA of Frequency 9a in at East Clear Creek. The first time Harry made 8a news was when he was 12 years old when he did several 8b+ and 8c. Later he stopped climbing completely for almost two years focusing on group singing/dancing performances.

 
 
8A again for Oriane Bertone (12)  (3) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done her 16th 8A, Nutsa in Rocklands where she also flashed Tea Garden Roof 7C. The 12 year old did her first 8A when she was 9 years old and last year she did her first two 8B's.

In order to escape the summer heat in Rocklands they boulder until 08.30 and after 19.00. This morning at 10 am 35 degrees reaching up to 45 during the day. The latest news is that she is super close to send Golden shadow 8B+! Videos are coming up.

 
 
9a and 8c+ by Janja Garnbret in Santa Linya  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who finished of 2017 by doing a 9a in Santa Linya, started of 2018 in the same way by doing La fabela pa la enmienda 9a and Blomu 8c+. Tobias Lanzanasto

 
Max Renner

Trela 7a, Kalymnos
 
Umberto Tilomelli

Indigo 7b, Lumignano
 
Amanda Berezowski (f)

Slow dance 7c+, Bishop
 
Sascha Gierlings

Zorba's restaurant 7a+,
Kalymnos
 
Antônio Sérgio Monteiro

Red label v6 no setor 1
do Oriente.
 
David Duez

Nine Lives 7c, Chattano
oga
 
Sam Davis

The Reflecting Pool 8b,
Red Rocks
 
Roberto Priace

Racó de l'heura
 
Christian Winklmair

DER Wasserfall in Steeg
zeigt sich von seiner
besten Seite!
 
Sixto otxis

toubkal, go to the ras
peak onder 4000m
 
Adam "Gaduła" Karpierz

Urban climbing in Marga
lef village
 
Ove Skagen

Free Hug 7b, Fontainebl
eau
 
Dante Quartermain

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Nicolo balducci

Croveo le momo 8a
 
Candice Bagley

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Chuck Odette

Big Man On Campus, Hurr
icave, UT
 
Mike Gabl

Samanta in "die Kante"
6b / Klettergarten Stam
s /Tirol
 
Adrien Ruffie

Eclipse (Almenara style
) 7b, Albarracin
 
Search & Add Ascents
Bram Honorez - La persistencia de la memoria 8A+, chironico
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Ondra & Usobiaga: Climbing & Training Camp  Facebook
ADVERTORIAL - Margalef, March 2018. Rockbusters invite you to join a unique climbing masterclass with Adam Ondra, Patxi Usobiaga and Pablo Scorza. Redefine your limits, stay injury free and enjoy years of sustainable progress.

Adam Ondra’s coaching in Margalef focuses on specific OS/RP strategies and attitude required for success in hard routes. You’ll identify your strengths and weaknesses and work on immediate performance improvement.

Patxi Usobiaga’s indoor training workshop details advanced exercise protocols which allow climbers to go far beyond their preconceived limits. You’ll learn how targeted training translates to success on the rock.

Pablo Scorza is a physiotherapist specializing in the bio-mechanics of climbing. You’ll gain an understanding of the cumulative effects of climbing and training, learn about injury prevention and maximize the efficiency of your movement.

Join the event at Rockbusters.net

 
Ice Climbing in South Tyrol  Facebook
 
Hueco Tanks sector reopened after 20 years  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson comes with the great news that one sector in Hueco Tanks has been reopened. (c) Keith Allan - A new map of hell 8A, FA Fred Nicole 1996.

"Fred Nicole was climbing in this one area in Hueco Tanks on east mountain more than 20 years ago. it was a small area called the 5 bimbos area. There are a few established climbs there. At the end of last season they reopened the area to climbing. They closed it to erosion i believe but they now have anti erosion measures in place and the boulders are back open! I bet there is potential for about 5-10 new climbs."
 
Crackoholic - Bohuslän 2010  Facebook
 
Rainbow climbing indoors  Facebook
Many think flash and onsight are most fun and it is also what counts in competitions. The dilemma is of course that instead most of the time you end up with projecting redpoints.

The easy way to have more fun and get better training indoors is to create new climbs by mixing up different colors of harder climbs or simply just add a specific color for your feet. This is also a good way to reduce some of the frustration for the kids who often do not reach making a climb impossible or just totally wrong graded.

On the other hand, you can also select new rainbow challenges by mixing colors but take out some specific jugs. The possibilities are endless and it will sure have a great impact and you will get out of the grade focus.

Remember that back in the old days, the boulder walls were covered with holds and you had to create and execute different moves in every sessions.
 
Where to stand and How to belay?  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureIn theory, you should spot your partner before the first clip is done and we can sometimes see this done by very experienced World Cup belayers. In practice, the dilemma is that you end up like 1.5 m from the wall meaning that if he/she falls directly after the clip he/she will land on top of you as you are taking in the slack.

Sure there are cases when a good spot is needed and you should pay attention or use another friend, as often the case in World Cups, but normally the first moves are super easy. Another option is of course to pre-clip the first quick draw. Once it is clipped in, you should try to stay close to the wall on the side of the climber and you should remain there until the first two-three drawers are clipped in.

Later you can step out half a meter for every clip until you stay 3 - 5 meters from the wall, especially when there are rope drag in the system. Once the person falls you should move inwards in order to make the fall more dynamic. If it is impossible to step out from the wall, you could try to jump up a bit if your partner falls high up in a rope drag situation.

The problem is that your instinct will most probably make you sit down instead of jump up during the fall. The simple solution for this is to bend your legs in a critical situation which makes it impossible to sit down and increase the impact of the fall.

It most be underlined that, even if the sliding in and jumping up sounds logical and easy, it is very difficult. In order to be a good belayer you need to practice a lot and the best place is of course indoors. You should also try to belay climbers that are both lighter and heavier than yourself including working with different rope drag.

The light belayer should almost never stay a long way from the wall and does not need to bend the legs. The risk is instead to get caught into the first quick draw. On the other side, the relatively heavy climber can move a longer away from the wall or bend the legs in order to avoid high impact falls.

It takes several years and hundreds of falls to become an experienced climber and there are many special cases especially in trad climbing like feeding out extra slack or even run or jump down. The above advice are general and should be tried out in practice in order to make you and your partner feel safe both climbing as well as belaying.

Please also note that most would think that the WC belayer stand too fare from the wall but the reason for this is that he can move forward in order to give out slack during the clip, i.e. only for the expertise.
 
Tarragona Climbs - New edition with App  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTarragona in Catalonia, Northeast Spain, is one of those destinations a climber must know. Whether world class climber or ambitious amateur, sooner or later you should pick a project and go for it. Right on time for high season in the area, the new edition of „Tarragona Climbs“ with more than 3800 routes is now available.

Especially the content on the world-class zones such as Siurana, Montsant and Margalef has been considerably expanded compared to the previous edition. The guidebook is written by Pete O’Donovan in collaboration with Dani Andrada, who opened hundreds of routes in the area. For the first time, this guidebook is also available in the Vertical-Life App. The combination of printed book and digital content, that can be unlocked through a code inside the book, is available exclusively on orders via the Vertical-Life online shop.
 
How should Schubert's flash be reported?  (31) Facebook
Jakob Schubert's flash of Catalan Witness the Fitness got reported as 8B+ (C) by us, as all five repeaters who had done it before had called it 8C, Chris Sharma 8B+/8C but Jakob gave it low end 8B+.

Is it not strange that the other two big Euro websites did chose to report it as either 8B+ or 8C in both the headline as well as in the article. The media needs some kind of guidelines so we will stop misleading our readers. How do you think Schubert's flash should be reported.
 
Climb Fast then Stop - Repeat  Facebook
Eric Hörst has made some interesting analysis of Margo Hayes ascent of Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. From the video, it can be seen that she climbs the 30 m route in five intervals, around one minute of fast climbing followed by a rest in between one to three minutes.

This goes in line with old previous training articles here on 8a and also how Adam Ondra climbs. In practice, this means that you are going for an indoor onsight, you should try to climb very fast and then do full stop and rest every six meters or 45 seconds as you are probably not as fit as Hayes and Ondra.

In the video we can also see that Margo finishes off every session by first clipping and the start to rest. In theory, she could have saved some energy by actually first rest and midways in her resting, clipped the quick draw. This would have means shorter intervals with intense climbing and more time spent in a resting mode.
 
France Combined Nationals  Facebook
 


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