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Get better endurance by resting in the top jug  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHolding your arms above the head, as you are doing most of the time when you are climbing, improves the blood circulation. Once your are lowered down, your forearms are at risk to be flooded which will reduce the blood circulation.

In order to get better endurance and reduce the time until your next burn, you better stay at the top jug and rest for a minute. Make your partner take most of the load in the rope and shake out as normal. This will reduce the risk for the fore arm to get flooded and optimize the blood circulation.

If you fall, you could immediately grab the rope with straightened arm pretty hard and once you are at the ground, you can shake out by grabbing some jugs you can reach from the floor.

 
 
Jakob Schubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+(8C)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has flashed Chris Sharma’s Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova del Ocell, giving it a personal, ”Low end” 8B+ grade instead of 8C. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

During the last week Jabob also did Stoking the Fire 9b and Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya.

Previously, Daniel Woods has flashed an 8C, Entlinge which nowadays are considered a soft 8B+. Also Adam Ondra has flashed a boulder which in the beginning was considered 8C, Jade.

 
 
Which is the best crash pad - 2018?  (2) Facebook
 


 
 
9b again by Stefano Ghisolfi  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9b the last 12 months, La Capalla in Siurana which Adam Ondra put up six years ago. Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana

Last year, the Italian was #2 in the World Cup after a steady progress in the ranking and as a matter of a fact, his scorecard shows the same up going trend. In the latest 9a and harder overall statistics, the 24 year old jumps to #4 and including his scorecard, he should be considered the second best sport climber in the world right now.

Interesting is also that he did win the Italian Speed Championship some years ago, and has been #6 in a Boulder WC, so Stefano is one of the contenders also for a medal in 2020.

 
 
9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

 
 
9a and 8c+ by Janja Garnbret in Santa Linya  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who finished of 2017 by doing a 9a in Santa Linya, started of 2018 in the same way by doing La fabela pa la enmienda 9a and Blomu 8c+. Tobias Lanzanasto

 
 
Shauna Coxsey Boulder WC winner 2017  Facebook
 

 
 
Jonwong Chon 2017 highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Third 9b by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the very best competition climbers the last eight years, reports on Instagram that he has done Stoking the Fire 9b in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

 
 
The Story of 2 Worlds 8C by Alex Khazanov  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Khazanov has done Dave Graham classic from 2005 The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano. The FA name referred to the grade inflation that was going on in the area and part of the reason why it stopped was this boulder that many have thought warranted 8C+. Now the pendulum has shifted and some say it is soft also because of new sequences have been found. Iddo Kolker

"A great way to start my 2018! One of my all time dream lines. Also managed to climb mithril with a wet top out, right after! The weather here in ticino is the worst I have experienced in Any of my climbing trips so far, rain, snow, fog, you name it. Fortunately there was one good day to used to my advantage, some times miracles do happen! Is it 8C(v15)? Perhaps, perhaps not, but who am I to judge? A small dream just came true!"

 
 
Beto Rocasolano doing 8B+/8C and 8C FA's  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
8C FA by Dai Koyamada (41)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who previously has done some 40 boulders 8B+ or harder, reports on Instagram that he started off 2018 by doing the FA of Gekirin 8C in Ryutosen. The 41 year old Japanese has been one of the top climbers in the world since he was #4 in a Lead World Cup in 1998.

 
 
8c+ and 9a by Janja Garnbret (18)  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who set a new IFSC record in 2017 by winning nine World Cups, has done her first 9a, Seleccio natural in Santa Linya and the 18 year old just needed five tries. The day before she did Open your mind 8c+ meaning that the Slovenien takes the Sport Climber of the year crown from Adam Ondra who has had if for the last seven years straight. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
8B+ FA by Giuliano Cameroni  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has spotted an amazing line on a new block in Cresciano and made the FA of Great Escape 8B+. The big question is how did he move next from the crazy position on the picture?

""Amazing boulder! The crux is really intense and it consists on this crazy double-toe-hook that unlocks a great compression on perfect rock. One of the best boulders in Ticino for sure! Situated above "La Proue".

Giuliano recently made many first ascents in Ticino and a video will come up soon. In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year old Swizz is #5.

 
 
Climbing school for the very poor in Rio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCentro de Escalada Urbana was founded in 2010 and aims to use climbing as a tool to engage and mentor at-risk youth from the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. It was co-founded by Andrew Lenz, a professionally certified climbing instructor with over 15 years of experience running community outreach programs in different slums around the city. The program offers free climbing classes (both indoor and outdoor) to youth from the ages 8 to 20 years old in Rocinha, the largest favela in Rio. It also has a scholarship program that supports 3 youth mentors, allowing them to stay in school and in the program rather than leaving their studies behind to work mediocre jobs in order to pay bills. These youth receive a monthly scholarships and in exchange are responsible for finishing their high school studies, opening and managing the indoor climbing wall in Rocinha 3 times a week, studying English at a course the program enrolled them in, competing in local climbing competitions, as well as climbing outdoors once a week with the goal of working towards getting their professional guiding certification.

Today the program counts on the support of the local climbing community for volunteer work and on the international climbing community for gear and monetary donations. The program has a monthly cost of about 1200 Euros per month to cover the rent of the community space that houses the wall, the three scholarships and small operational costs (for those that think this is high, its good to remember that, although Rio has wide spread poverty and social inequality, its still one of the most expensive cities in the Americas). In the beginning, the program was mostly just Andrew taking a small group of about 4 -5 kids out to climb on the 200 meter cliffs that tower over the Rocinha slum. During the first few years the greatest challenge was logistical, managing to get the youth together, travel around the city and safely teach them on the multi-pitch routes that Rio has most off, all with limited resources and volunteers.

The number of students attending the program never surpassed 8-10. But in 2015, through the support of a few international organizations such as Beyond Gear (USA) and Urban Uprising (UK) he was able to put together enough funds to rent a space inside the slum and build a small bouldering wall. This immediately helped double the size the group of youth the program was were able to work with as well as the sort of attention they are able to give them. C.E.U. still depends on volunteer instructors though, which makes it difficult to maintain consistent outing and focused training.

Today they still teach outdoor climbing, but have widely expanded their indoor program. The state wide junior boulder championship was won by one of students. We have another student climbing as hard as 7c on single pitch routes and V10 boulder problems, and still another that is specializing in multi pitch trad routes.

2018 has a lot of potential for C.E.U. They want to double the size of group, working with up to 40 youth, including a program just for young women climbers. We want to bring in more professional instructors (our dream would be able to offer paid positions, ensuring quality and consistency) and are also hoping to expand on many parallel cultural and environmental activities that can be offered to our youth. It could be a difficult year though if the program doesn’t manage to raise enough funds to at least pay their monthly costs. At this point they are guaranteed to operate until May of 2018.

More info and here you can support them with cash.

 
 
Alex Honnold Free Solo Climbing Yosemite's El Capitan  Facebook
 

 
 
Barbara Zangerl one of La Sportiva's strange hero  Facebook
 

 
 
8a Climber of the year 2017 - Draft  (30) Facebook
 

Here is a quick draft for Climber of 2017. As all previous years, we give more credit to the ones doing many ascents in different disciplines. Please comment to update the list.

1. Janja Garnbret
2. Adam Ondra
3. Alex Megos
4. Stefano Ghisolfi
5. Alex Puccio
6. Anak Verhoeven
7. Jan Hojer
8. Angela Eiter
9. Margo Hayes
10. Alexey Rubtsov, Tomoa Narasaki, James Webb, Shauna Coxsey, Ashima Shiraishi, Jongwon Chon, Mikaela Kiersch, Jernej Kruder, Jakob Schubert, Romain Desgranges, Laura Rogara, Keita Watabe, Christof Rauch, Akiyo Noguchi, Stasa Gejo, Moho Nonaka, Jain Kim, Nalle Hukkataival, Charles Alber, Kokoro Fujii, Claire Buhrfeind, Domen Skofic, Mina Markovic, Jonathan Siegrist, Jessica Pilz, Julia Chanouride, Molly Thompson-Smith, Keiichiro Korenaga, Chris Sharma, Ryuichi Murai, Alberto Rocasolano, Piotr Schab, Paul Robinson, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Daisuke Ichimiya, Dai Koyamada, Lara Neumeier, Karoline Sinnhuber, Nina Williams, Katherine Choong, Jorg Verhoeven, Steve McClure, David Graham, Daniel Woods, Anna Stöhr, Sasha Digiulian, Dani Andrada, Nina Caprez, Sean McColl, Melissa Le Neve, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Giuliano Cameroni, Seb Bouin, Steve McClure, Gabri Moroni, Mathieu Bouyoud, Patxi Usobiaga, David Firnenburg, Toby Saxton, Daniel Fuertes, Ned Feehally

 
 
Jonathan Siegrist signs up with 31 9a's and harder  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist, one of the top climbers the last ten years who did three 9a+' this year, has signed up to 8a with 270 recorded ascents, including several personal grades. He is also active on Instagram.

In the 8a ranking game J-Star is #4 and Rock & Ice has done a 2017 summary interview.

 
 
First repeat of Salamandre 9a+ from 2007 by Dherbilly  (3) Facebook
 

Baptiste Dherbilly did the first repeat of Fred Rouhling's Salamandre 9b from 2007 this October. As his personal previous best was 8c+ he could not comment on the 9a+ FA suggestion. "I like the sensation when I climb at my supra max level because I have to be really focus on the present moment and all the other thing about the life are leaving my head. I am just thinking about my movement and my climb. This route was a myth for me because the poster of Fred was my first climbing poster when I began climbing."

 
Mike Kimmel

Un Rime Estupide 7c+, R
ocklands
 
Carlo crespi

If you are travelling i
n Milan (Italy), you ar
e welcome to stay in my
house, search for clim
bing house on AIRb&b
 
Gus Carter

They Call Him Jordan 7b
+/V8, Joe's Valley
 
Camilla Moroni

Plugim-pujant 8a, Marga
lef
 
Robert De lafondue

Sing While you May, Tar
gassonne
 
Duygu Haug

Chaine erection 8a, Gey
ik bayiri
 
Chuck Odette

Anorexic Nerve Damage s
ession
 
Climb in Kymi

George Rousalis lowerin
g from 'Sycophant exten
sion', Katavolo crag, K
ymi
 
Ema Seliškar

Corto 8a, Osp/Misja Pec
 
Manuel W

Blocage violent. Ceuse
 
Moi Barea

en la zona nueva..... 7
a+
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
ari
 
Flavio Ruffinatto

Vagabond d'occident 7c,
Céüse
 
Fran Roldan

Trying 'Pirates d'aigua
dolça' (8b+)
 
Mike Gabl

Samanta in "die Kante"
6b / Klettergarten Stam
s /Tirol
 
Markus Adamaszek

Zig zag, Fb 7a bloc, Al
barracín
 
Frederico Gonçalves

Boulder: Abrigo de Ferr
o V12/8a+
 
Chuck Odette

Dreading the Mantle, Mo
e's Valley, UT
 
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SEVDA GEYİK - Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/Geyikbayırı
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Tarragona Climbs - New edition with App  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTarragona in Catalonia, Northeast Spain, is one of those destinations a climber must know. Whether world class climber or ambitious amateur, sooner or later you should pick a project and go for it. Right on time for high season in the area, the new edition of „Tarragona Climbs“ with more than 3800 routes is now available.

Especially the content on the world-class zones such as Siurana, Montsant and Margalef has been considerably expanded compared to the previous edition. The guidebook is written by Pete O’Donovan in collaboration with Dani Andrada, who opened hundreds of routes in the area. For the first time, this guidebook is also available in the Vertical-Life App. The combination of printed book and digital content, that can be unlocked through a code inside the book, is available exclusively on orders via the Vertical-Life online shop.
 
How should Schubert's flash be reported?  (28) Facebook
Jakob Schubert's flash of Catalan Witness the Fitness got reported as 8B+ (C) by us, as all five repeaters who had done it before had called it 8C, Chris Sharma 8B+/8C but Jakob gave it low end 8B+.

Is it not strange that the other two big Euro websites did chose to report it as either 8B+ or 8C in both the headline as well as in the article. The media needs some kind of guidelines so we will stop misleading our readers. How do you think Schubert's flash should be reported.
 
Climb Fast then Stop - Repeat  Facebook
Eric Hörst has made some interesting analysis of Margo Hayes ascent of Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. From the video, it can be seen that she climbs the 30 m route in five intervals, around one minute of fast climbing followed by a rest in between one to three minutes.

This goes in line with old previous training articles here on 8a and also how Adam Ondra climbs. In practice, this means that you are going for an indoor onsight, you should try to climb very fast and then do full stop and rest every six meters or 45 seconds as you are probably not as fit as Hayes and Ondra.

In the video we can also see that Margo finishes off every session by first clipping and the start to rest. In theory, she could have saved some energy by actually first rest and midways in her resting, clipped the quick draw. This would have means shorter intervals with intense climbing and more time spent in a resting mode.
 
France Combined Nationals  Facebook
 
Social media vs Mental training  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureInstagram is a great communication tool but it can also create pressure that can be hard to handle. It might be wise for especially youngsters to not report/show of with good training and keep saying, on a daily basis, that everything is so good in order to get many likes, as this could build up anxiety. Sooner or later there is a competition coming up and what you have been saying on social media might feel like pressure.

On the other hand, if you are a very experienced and successful climber who will not loose your sponsors just because you fail once or twice, you can do as Jorg Verhoeven. Use social media to put pressure on yourself so you have to commit 100 %.

Some months ago, the World Cup winner 2008 who is a high class climber in all disciplines from bouldering to big-walls, declared that his goal is to do an 9b. If you do not have such a broad climbing background as Jorg, you better avoid such Instagram posts but I am sure it works for Jorg :)

"The idea is to come back in Febuary, and send in March (or even April) when conditions are prime. That means not a whole lot of training time left, but it for sure is possible. I feel like power endurance (20-40 moves) needs to increase, but also pure power (so that I'll need lees endurance). I put the odds at 75:25!"
 
Ondra is superior 9a and harder  (8) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThis diagram tries to show how superior Adam Ondra is when it comes to 9a and harder. We have given points for 9a to 9c based on a multiple of three which actually almost perfectly fits Ondra's grade pyramid. As grades are subjective and sometimes get down graded the scoring is somewhat speculative. On the other hand, Ondra is known to be the one using most frequent personal. Source is the 8a data base and escalade9.

It should be mentioned that if we were to make such a diagram for onsighting 8b and harder, Ondra would have been way more superior followed by Megos. At the same time as Ondra has onsighted 21 routes 8c+ and harder, the runner ups have at most onsighted four.
 
Best Climbing Shoes - 2018?  Facebook
For the 15th year in a row...

 
Zlagboard PRO chosen by EpicTV  Facebook
 
The most popular articles  Facebook
 
Baunei - Another climbing paradise in Sardina  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureJan Kares, multiple pull up world record holder, has during the last ten years bolted some 300 routes in Baunei in Sardina. The last years he has come back 4-5 times mainly for bolting. His next project, together with Riky Felderer, is to make a new topo and also include all the rebolted routes by Maurizio Oviglio.

"This place has an incredible potential thanks to its magical beauty and possibilities to climb not far from the sea with a minimum of people. I traveled the whole Europe seeking best climbing options but only at Sardinia I found a climbing paradise. I have no reason to go anywhere else ever.

This Christmas I even managed to fulfill my dream and bolted a new multipitch to the most beautiful mountain of Sardinia - Punta Giradili with my climbing friend Honza Hrnčíř. I named the route BOREAS 7c+, the God of cold wind. With 5 lengths I was smiling the whole time when climbing it, how beautiful the route is! Travers just above the big cave in the beautiful rock, tufas everywhere. It’s just a dream.

The other multipitch I bolted this Christmas and I’m proud of as well is called LEVIATAN. Perfect for those huge overhangs and heavy lengths lovers. The difficulty around 8b-c is the easier option, I guess. It has 3 lengths and the direct route is the hardest route I've ever bolted in my life. This is on the way to the shelf towards Punta Giradili. The route has not been climbed yet."
 

Dejan Mesko
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