GO TO GLOBAL SITE   SWE ESP USA FRA ZAF ITA
DEU CAN AUS NOR
AUT BRA RUS CHE
GBR POL NLD SVK
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
 
 
 
The 8B+ send including interview with Oriane Bertone (12)  Facebook
 

 
 
Golden Shadow 8B+ by Oriane Bertone (12)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has set a new standard in bouldering by doing Golden Shadow 8B+ in Rocklands. Including a 7C+ flash yesterday, the 12 year old is #2 in the ranking game once it is added to her scorecard. EpicTV is preparing a video and an interview to be released later today.

The previous 8B+ youngest world record holder was Ashima Shiraishi who did the same boulder when she was 13 years old. These two girls are quite superior to the boys as Adam Ondra (most probably) has the record being 15 years old.

It should be noted that some have said Golden Shadow is soft and five out of the 27 ascents have marked it as 8B so it is border line to be reported as 8B (+). Nevertheless, as Ashima did the same boulder it is in any case a new record.

Including the 8C by Shiraishi when she was still 14 years old and Angy Eiters 9b last year, we can once again say that climbing is unique when it comes to gender and age equality for physical sports.

 
 
Stay updated on ascents in crags and friends  Facebook
 

"My Updates" in the left column list the ascents from Scorecard and Crags you are interested of. Just go to your friends scorecard and add it and the same you can do with crags, where you also can specify which grade filter wanted.

 
 
8A by Max Bertone (10) in Rocklands  (12) Facebook
 

Max Bertone has for the third year in a row done an 8A, Dirty Epic in Rocklands. If he wants to stay on par with his two year older sister Oriane, he needs to do an 8B within a year. Bear in mind that climbers normally avoid the 30+ temperature in Rocklands during the summer, meaning they can only climb very early and very late during the day. In between, the children have schooling. Do not miss the great video!

 
 
Canada Youth World Champions - Cancelled  Facebook
 

IFSC has sent out info to the federations that the Youth World Champion in Canada has been cancelled. Officially, IFSC have not reported it but they hope to use the same dates 7 - 19 August in another location.

 
 
Get better endurance by resting in the top jug  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHolding your arms above the head, as you are doing most of the time when you are climbing, improves the blood circulation. Once your are lowered down, your forearms are at risk to be flooded which will reduce the blood circulation.

In order to get better endurance and reduce the time until your next burn, you better stay at the top jug and rest for a minute. Make your partner take most of the load in the rope and shake out as normal. This will reduce the risk for the fore arm to get flooded and optimize the blood circulation.

If you fall, you could immediately grab the rope with straightened arm pretty hard and once you are at the ground, you can shake out by grabbing some jugs you can reach from the floor.

 
 
Jakob Schubert flashes Catalan Witness the Fitness 8B+(8C)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has flashed Chris Sharma’s Catalan Witness the Fitness in Cova del Ocell, giving it a personal, ”Low end” 8B+ grade instead of 8C. (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

During the last week Jabob also did Stoking the Fire 9b and Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya.

Previously, Daniel Woods has flashed an 8C, Entlinge which nowadays are considered a soft 8B+. Also Adam Ondra has flashed a boulder which in the beginning was considered 8C, Jade.

 
 
Which is the best crash pad - 2018?  (2) Facebook
 


 
 
9b again by Stefano Ghisolfi  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9b the last 12 months, La Capalla in Siurana which Adam Ondra put up six years ago. Vertical Eye - Matteo Pavana

Last year, the Italian was #2 in the World Cup after a steady progress in the ranking and as a matter of a fact, his scorecard shows the same up going trend. In the latest 9a and harder overall statistics, the 24 year old jumps to #4 and including his scorecard, he should be considered the second best sport climber in the world right now.

Interesting is also that he did win the Italian Speed Championship some years ago, and has been #6 in a Boulder WC, so Stefano is one of the contenders also for a medal in 2020.

 
 
9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

 
 
9a and 8c+ by Janja Garnbret in Santa Linya  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who finished of 2017 by doing a 9a in Santa Linya, started of 2018 in the same way by doing La fabela pa la enmienda 9a and Blomu 8c+. Tobias Lanzanasto

 
 
Shauna Coxsey Boulder WC winner 2017  Facebook
 

 
 
Jonwong Chon 2017 highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Third 9b by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, one of the very best competition climbers the last eight years, reports on Instagram that he has done Stoking the Fire 9b in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa

 
 
The Story of 2 Worlds 8C by Alex Khazanov  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Khazanov has done Dave Graham classic from 2005 The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano. The FA name referred to the grade inflation that was going on in the area and part of the reason why it stopped was this boulder that many have thought warranted 8C+. Now the pendulum has shifted and some say it is soft also because of new sequences have been found. Iddo Kolker

"A great way to start my 2018! One of my all time dream lines. Also managed to climb mithril with a wet top out, right after! The weather here in ticino is the worst I have experienced in Any of my climbing trips so far, rain, snow, fog, you name it. Fortunately there was one good day to used to my advantage, some times miracles do happen! Is it 8C(v15)? Perhaps, perhaps not, but who am I to judge? A small dream just came true!"

 
 
Beto Rocasolano doing 8B+/8C and 8C FA's  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
8C FA by Dai Koyamada (41)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDai Koyamada, who previously has done some 40 boulders 8B+ or harder, reports on Instagram that he started off 2018 by doing the FA of Gekirin 8C in Ryutosen. The 41 year old Japanese has been one of the top climbers in the world since he was #4 in a Lead World Cup in 1998.

 
 
8c+ and 9a by Janja Garnbret (18)  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, who set a new IFSC record in 2017 by winning nine World Cups, has done her first 9a, Seleccio natural in Santa Linya and the 18 year old just needed five tries. The day before she did Open your mind 8c+ meaning that the Slovenien takes the Sport Climber of the year crown from Adam Ondra who has had if for the last seven years straight. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
8B+ FA by Giuliano Cameroni  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni has spotted an amazing line on a new block in Cresciano and made the FA of Great Escape 8B+. The big question is how did he move next from the crazy position on the picture?

""Amazing boulder! The crux is really intense and it consists on this crazy double-toe-hook that unlocks a great compression on perfect rock. One of the best boulders in Ticino for sure! Situated above "La Proue".

Giuliano recently made many first ascents in Ticino and a video will come up soon. In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year old Swizz is #5.

 
 
Climbing school for the very poor in Rio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCentro de Escalada Urbana was founded in 2010 and aims to use climbing as a tool to engage and mentor at-risk youth from the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. It was co-founded by Andrew Lenz, a professionally certified climbing instructor with over 15 years of experience running community outreach programs in different slums around the city. The program offers free climbing classes (both indoor and outdoor) to youth from the ages 8 to 20 years old in Rocinha, the largest favela in Rio. It also has a scholarship program that supports 3 youth mentors, allowing them to stay in school and in the program rather than leaving their studies behind to work mediocre jobs in order to pay bills. These youth receive a monthly scholarships and in exchange are responsible for finishing their high school studies, opening and managing the indoor climbing wall in Rocinha 3 times a week, studying English at a course the program enrolled them in, competing in local climbing competitions, as well as climbing outdoors once a week with the goal of working towards getting their professional guiding certification.

Today the program counts on the support of the local climbing community for volunteer work and on the international climbing community for gear and monetary donations. The program has a monthly cost of about 1200 Euros per month to cover the rent of the community space that houses the wall, the three scholarships and small operational costs (for those that think this is high, its good to remember that, although Rio has wide spread poverty and social inequality, its still one of the most expensive cities in the Americas). In the beginning, the program was mostly just Andrew taking a small group of about 4 -5 kids out to climb on the 200 meter cliffs that tower over the Rocinha slum. During the first few years the greatest challenge was logistical, managing to get the youth together, travel around the city and safely teach them on the multi-pitch routes that Rio has most off, all with limited resources and volunteers.

The number of students attending the program never surpassed 8-10. But in 2015, through the support of a few international organizations such as Beyond Gear (USA) and Urban Uprising (UK) he was able to put together enough funds to rent a space inside the slum and build a small bouldering wall. This immediately helped double the size the group of youth the program was were able to work with as well as the sort of attention they are able to give them. C.E.U. still depends on volunteer instructors though, which makes it difficult to maintain consistent outing and focused training.

Today they still teach outdoor climbing, but have widely expanded their indoor program. The state wide junior boulder championship was won by one of students. We have another student climbing as hard as 7c on single pitch routes and V10 boulder problems, and still another that is specializing in multi pitch trad routes.

2018 has a lot of potential for C.E.U. They want to double the size of group, working with up to 40 youth, including a program just for young women climbers. We want to bring in more professional instructors (our dream would be able to offer paid positions, ensuring quality and consistency) and are also hoping to expand on many parallel cultural and environmental activities that can be offered to our youth. It could be a difficult year though if the program doesn’t manage to raise enough funds to at least pay their monthly costs. At this point they are guaranteed to operate until May of 2018.

More info and here you can support them with cash.

 
Duygu Haug

Debut les Morts, Galati
ani, Kalymnos
 
Marcel Reimann

Le Surplomb de la Coqui
lle assis (gauche) 7a,
Fontainebleau
 
Unai Martínez Malaxechevarría

The Climb Open Boulder
Festival 2017
 
Tomasz Cygnarowicz

8a+ Mi può fare accende
re - San Vito lo Capo
 
Ema Seliškar

Corto 8a, Osp/Misja Pec
 
Georgios Rouss

Ntinos Mprentas on 'Dou
ble Penetration', Kleis
oura crag
 
Chuck Odette

Bulletproof Monk, China
Cave, UT
 
Heiko Queitsch

thanks Frank for this n
ice picture.. first "Gr
eenpoint" o. "cleanasce
nt" from the super clas
sic "Chasin theTrane" (
9/7c) (E7/6c) years ago
!
 
Sascha Gierlings

Zorba's restaurant 7a+,
Kalymnos
 
Adrien Ruffie

Eclipse (Almenara style
) 7b, Albarracin
 
Sam Davis

The Reflecting Pool 8b,
Red Rocks
 
Krzysztof Korabik

Viatge a Cuba 7b, Gandí
a
 
Duygu Haug

Chaine erection 8a, Gey
ik bayiri
 
Moi Barea

muy guapa... entrada di
recta ( 8b )
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Antônio Sérgio Monteiro

Red label v6 no setor 1
do Oriente.
 
Marina Inoue

Never Believe 7c, Rifle
 
Stefano Ghisolfi

Definicion de resistenc
ia democrata 9a, Terrad
ets
 
Search & Add Ascents
Email:
 
Bram Honorez - La persistencia de la memoria 8A+, chironico
Click to Enlarge Picture
Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Ondra & Usobiaga: Climbing & Training Camp  Facebook
ADVERTORIAL - Margalef, March 2018. Rockbusters invite you to join a unique climbing masterclass with Adam Ondra, Patxi Usobiaga and Pablo Scorza. Redefine your limits, stay injury free and enjoy years of sustainable progress.

Adam Ondra’s coaching in Margalef focuses on specific OS/RP strategies and attitude required for success in hard routes. You’ll identify your strengths and weaknesses and work on immediate performance improvement.

Patxi Usobiaga’s indoor training workshop details advanced exercise protocols which allow climbers to go far beyond their preconceived limits. You’ll learn how targeted training translates to success on the rock.

Pablo Scorza is a physiotherapist specializing in the bio-mechanics of climbing. You’ll gain an understanding of the cumulative effects of climbing and training, learn about injury prevention and maximize the efficiency of your movement.

Join the event at Rockbusters.net

 
Rainbow climbing indoors  Facebook
Many think flash and onsight are most fun and it is also what counts in competitions. The dilemma is of course that instead most of the time you end up with projecting redpoints.

The easy way to have more fun and get better training indoors is to create new climbs by mixing up different colors of harder climbs or simply just add a specific color for your feet. This is also a good way to reduce some of the frustration for the kids who often do not reach making a climb impossible or just totally wrong graded.

On the other hand, you can also select new rainbow challenges by mixing colors but take out some specific jugs. The possibilities are endless and it will sure have a great impact and you will get out of the grade focus.

Remember that back in the old days, the boulder walls were covered with holds and you had to create and execute different moves in every sessions.
 
Where to stand and How to belay?  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureIn theory, you should spot your partner before the first clip is done and we can sometimes see this done by very experienced World Cup belayers. In practice, the dilemma is that you end up like 1.5 m from the wall meaning that if he/she falls directly after the clip he/she will land on top of you as you are taking in the slack.

Sure there are cases when a good spot is needed and you should pay attention or use another friend, as often the case in World Cups, but normally the first moves are super easy. Another option is of course to pre-clip the first quick draw. Once it is clipped in, you should try to stay close to the wall on the side of the climber and you should remain there until the first two-three drawers are clipped in.

Later you can step out half a meter for every clip until you stay 3 - 5 meters from the wall, especially when there are rope drag in the system. Once the person falls you should move inwards in order to make the fall more dynamic. If it is impossible to step out from the wall, you could try to jump up a bit if your partner falls high up in a rope drag situation.

The problem is that your instinct will most probably make you sit down instead of jump up during the fall. The simple solution for this is to bend your legs in a critical situation which makes it impossible to sit down and increase the impact of the fall.

It most be underlined that, even if the sliding in and jumping up sounds logical and easy, it is very difficult. In order to be a good belayer you need to practice a lot and the best place is of course indoors. You should also try to belay climbers that are both lighter and heavier than yourself including working with different rope drag.

The light belayer should almost never stay a long way from the wall and does not need to bend the legs. The risk is instead to get caught into the first quick draw. On the other side, the relatively heavy climber can move a longer away from the wall or bend the legs in order to avoid high impact falls.

It takes several years and hundreds of falls to become an experienced climber and there are many special cases especially in trad climbing like feeding out extra slack or even run or jump down. The above advice are general and should be tried out in practice in order to make you and your partner feel safe both climbing as well as belaying.

Please also note that most would think that the WC belayer stand too fare from the wall but the reason for this is that he can move forward in order to give out slack during the clip, i.e. only for the expertise.
 
Tarragona Climbs - New edition with App  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTarragona in Catalonia, Northeast Spain, is one of those destinations a climber must know. Whether world class climber or ambitious amateur, sooner or later you should pick a project and go for it. Right on time for high season in the area, the new edition of „Tarragona Climbs“ with more than 3800 routes is now available.

Especially the content on the world-class zones such as Siurana, Montsant and Margalef has been considerably expanded compared to the previous edition. The guidebook is written by Pete O’Donovan in collaboration with Dani Andrada, who opened hundreds of routes in the area. For the first time, this guidebook is also available in the Vertical-Life App. The combination of printed book and digital content, that can be unlocked through a code inside the book, is available exclusively on orders via the Vertical-Life online shop.
 
How should Schubert's flash be reported?  (31) Facebook
Jakob Schubert's flash of Catalan Witness the Fitness got reported as 8B+ (C) by us, as all five repeaters who had done it before had called it 8C, Chris Sharma 8B+/8C but Jakob gave it low end 8B+.

Is it not strange that the other two big Euro websites did chose to report it as either 8B+ or 8C in both the headline as well as in the article. The media needs some kind of guidelines so we will stop misleading our readers. How do you think Schubert's flash should be reported.
 
Climb Fast then Stop - Repeat  Facebook
Eric Hörst has made some interesting analysis of Margo Hayes ascent of Biographie 9a+ in Céüse. From the video, it can be seen that she climbs the 30 m route in five intervals, around one minute of fast climbing followed by a rest in between one to three minutes.

This goes in line with old previous training articles here on 8a and also how Adam Ondra climbs. In practice, this means that you are going for an indoor onsight, you should try to climb very fast and then do full stop and rest every six meters or 45 seconds as you are probably not as fit as Hayes and Ondra.

In the video we can also see that Margo finishes off every session by first clipping and the start to rest. In theory, she could have saved some energy by actually first rest and midways in her resting, clipped the quick draw. This would have means shorter intervals with intense climbing and more time spent in a resting mode.
 
France Combined Nationals  Facebook
 
Social media vs Mental training  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureInstagram is a great communication tool but it can also create pressure that can be hard to handle. It might be wise for especially youngsters to not report/show of with good training and keep saying, on a daily basis, that everything is so good in order to get many likes, as this could build up anxiety. Sooner or later there is a competition coming up and what you have been saying on social media might feel like pressure.

On the other hand, if you are a very experienced and successful climber who will not loose your sponsors just because you fail once or twice, you can do as Jorg Verhoeven. Use social media to put pressure on yourself so you have to commit 100 %.

Some months ago, the World Cup winner 2008 who is a high class climber in all disciplines from bouldering to big-walls, declared that his goal is to do an 9b. If you do not have such a broad climbing background as Jorg, you better avoid such Instagram posts but I am sure it works for Jorg :)

"The idea is to come back in Febuary, and send in March (or even April) when conditions are prime. That means not a whole lot of training time left, but it for sure is possible. I feel like power endurance (20-40 moves) needs to increase, but also pure power (so that I'll need lees endurance). I put the odds at 75:25!"
 
Ondra is superior 9a and harder  (8) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThis diagram tries to show how superior Adam Ondra is when it comes to 9a and harder. We have given points for 9a to 9c based on a multiple of three which actually almost perfectly fits Ondra's grade pyramid. As grades are subjective and sometimes get down graded the scoring is somewhat speculative. On the other hand, Ondra is known to be the one using most frequent personal. Source is the 8a data base and escalade9.

It should be mentioned that if we were to make such a diagram for onsighting 8b and harder, Ondra would have been way more superior followed by Megos. At the same time as Ondra has onsighted 21 routes 8c+ and harder, the runner ups have at most onsighted four.
 
Best Climbing Shoes - 2018?  Facebook
For the 15th year in a row...

 

Catherine Boivin
Bryce Canyon, utah Avril 2005

RSS News | More News & Numbers ->