First 8c+ slab in La Pedriza by Ignacio Mulero  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBelmez Face publishes in FB the FA of Territorio Comanche 8c+ in El Hueso, La Pedriza by Ignacio Mulero. The route is a extreme-friction 35m climbing, starting with a section of 7c+ with 'no hands', followed by a bouldery little roof before the never ending upper slab where Mulero was falling over and over again in the last few weeks. Mulero has previously done a few 9a's and 8C boulder, and during the last two winters, he did the hardest slabs to date up to 8b+ and free climbed some old trad routes in the 8b+ range. (C) Talo Martín - Muérdago Films.

After a very long process in which he was losing skin and partners to join him (1h hike), luckily and despite the bad conditions (it was sunny and it needs a cloudy and cold day for the south face climbing), he and his partner woke up very early to be at the crag (07:20), and after a warm up placing the draws for the last time he did it in his first go.

La Pedriza is just 50km from Madrid and with its 3 600 routes and 2 500 boulder problems makes it one of the biggest granite crags in Europe. The route should be one of the hardest slabs in the world considering that there are basically no holds. It is just smears and microscopic crystals that could not be compared to slabs like Tough Enough 8c+ in Madagascar or Meltdown 9a in Wales where there are 'holds'. An interview to Ignacio Mulero will come soon to 8a.nu.



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Chongqing highlights  Facebook
 



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Papichulo 9a+ also by Felipe Camargo  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo, who two months ago won 35 000 USD in a Neflix "Ninja Warrior" show, has done his first 9a+, Papichulo in Oliana. Chris Sharma made the FA in 2008 and the Brazilian got it's 17th ascent. (c) Lena Drapella

"I worked the route six weeks last year and seven days this trip. Trained a lot of endurance and tried to set my traverses in the gym with similar amount of hard moves, resistance and boulders. Like 28 moves to the first bad rest, then 12 moves boulder, better rest and then 40 endurance moves to the top. I never worked so hard or wanted anything as bad as I wanted this route!"



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First 9a by Gregor Vezonik  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGregor Vezonik, who was #31 in the first Boulder WC in 2017 and who has done more than ten 8B boulders, has done his first 9a, Aikula in Burjakove peci which is his local home crag. (c) Rok Klancnik

"The line was bolted 20 years ago by my uncle and Uros Perko got the FA. Then some holds broke and then Domen Skopfic did it two years ago. I tried it for the first time six years ago as a joke. Then a couple of times later. Started working seriously on it three years ago and almost sent it two years ago when I was trying it with Domen. Last year I probably had four sessions on it and this year I did it on my second session. it has been an incredible journey to finally tick it off."



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Convincing victory by Chon and Garnbret in China  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret, the Lead overall winner in 2017, was superior in the Boulder World Cup in Chongqing, winner all three rounds and topping al 13 boulders in a superior style. Runner up was Shauna Coxsey who overall did ten boulders.

Among the male, Jongwon Chon #4 in the Boulder World Cup last year, won both the semifinal and the final and in fact he had to do the final boulder twice as he misunderstood how to top out in his first try.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 4t11 4b7 - Jongwon Chon KOR 4t6 4b5
2. Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t4 4b5 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t2 3b3
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 3t13 4b13 - Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 2t2 3b3
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke



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Chongqing finals live 18.00 GMT+8  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ by Philipp Gaßner (16)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePhilipp Gaßner, who did his first 8c+ when he was 14 years old, has done his second, Pain makes me stronger, every day! in Frankenjura.

"The route fits my style pretty well because it's short and bouldery with pockets. I just needed a few tries to stick the crux move that is a little dyno to a good pocket and to send the whole route.

After my finger injury in 2016 I want to climb outside as much as possible. In summer my plan is to travel to Rocklands and the psyche is already high so let's see."

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done two impressive FAs in Camaiore; La Terza Eta 9a which he did in four tries and Naturalmente 9a+.

"One of the best routes I can imagine. Slightly overhanging wall, tiny crimps, undercuts, shitty feet, resistant, bullet-proof rock. Tried for two days three weeks ago, now it went down after checking the moves. Rather high-end 9a+ I would say."

The level is going up in 2017 and Ondra is leading the pack. During four days, the 23 year old has done two 9b's, two 9a+' and two 9a's. It will be interesting to follow the progression during 2017.

 
 
Japan superior among the male in China  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapan participated with ten male in the Boulder WC in Chongqing in China and all of them were Top-17. In practice this meant that several of the top guys did not make it to the semifinal; McColl, Gelmanov, Sharafutdinov, Stranik, Bonder, Kurder, Skofic and Levier. (c( Eddie Fowke

Now the female do their qualification, follow the digital results. On Sunday there will be live-streaming starting with the semi at 09.30 and the final at 18.00 GMT+8.

 
 
9b and 9a in a day by Adam Ondra  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra publishes on his Instagram that yesterday he did Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus 9b in Andonno, Italy. The same day, after two hour driving, he also did Perfect Man 2.0 9a on 2nd go in Castelbianco. (C) Jan Novak

"Lapsus 9b in Andonno gets its second ascent today after @steghiso. Amazing conditions and feeling pretty strong today. It was that good that we drove down to Castelbianco the same afternoon and I did 2nd go ascent of Perfect Man 2.0 9a after @Matteo_gambaro. Planet Mountain has got some comments from Adam.

 
 
Ondra's advice to the kids - onsight and varied styles  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra did his first ever interview with 8a when he was 11 years old, where he said;

"I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time. If I see a nice route, no matter the grade or the character, I want to climb it. Cracks too. I aim to climb all types of routes on various types of rocks."

What are the changes you see on the scene in comparison to when you were like 13 years old? What are the advises you could give to the young climbers?

I think the scene of youngsters has changed as there are way more kids
climbing pretty hard. More coaches, more scientific approach, but the
problem for many remain the same - I often see too much pressure from
the coaches and parents (which is even worse), not letting the kids
being more independent in climbing and just having more fun in general.

Kids should be motivated and psyched to climb themselves - if not, they
will probably quit climbing sooner or later. It is important to be ambitious but not focusing too much on the performance. I think kids in general often climb only in certain areas and certain routes, which fit their style and they can push their limits very fast and high.

We know that grades are relative, most importantly for someone being only 130cm. It can be frustrating for the youngsters when they grow up, their bodies changing and they do not make any further progression, or not even maintain the level. I think it is very important to climb everything and everywhere when it comes to sport climbing, mostly onsighting but not all the time, and not onsighting in the usual areas suitable for onsights.

That way one learns the most and you gain the experience to have fun in the future, because you will be capable of climbing well in any style.

 
 
Ondra talks onsight and then does an 8c (+)  (3) Facebook
 

 
 
8A+ by Mile Heyden  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMile Heyden, who last month did her first 8B+, has done La Cicatrice de l'ohm 8A+ (B) in Fontainebleau. (c) Matti Stanek

" I was able to do all the moves in the first session and it took me four to finally climb it. Two times I fall on the last move before the top out. My next plan is Magic Wood for three days if the weather gets better. Got some open project there like Pura Vida :)

 
 
Two 8B+' by Jimmy Webb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJimmy Webb has done two 8B+'s in Shelter in Bavona and Ill Trill in Magic Wood. Eddie Fowke

In total, Jimmy has done 77 boulders 8B+ which is among the Top-5 in the world. When it comes to flashes, he is #1 with ten 8B's and 29 8A+'s and bare in mind that he is one of the guys who most often gives personal grades.

 
 
9a route as preparation for the three Asia Boulder WCs  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic, Lead overall World Cup winner in 2016, will be competing in three Boulder World Cups in Asia starting this weekend in China. Four days ago, he did the first repeat of Jernej Kruder's In Time 9a in Sopata. He also did an 8c second go as well as tried Kruder's 9b+?, picture by Luka Tambaca. "It was just a small break to leave those plastic holds for a day or two."

"In Time 9a is Jernej's ex project with a scary 8A dyno at the start followed by a bouldery 8c route. Jernej originally bolted the start two meters to the left but as it was to hard he decided to jump over it :) It's hard to find such complete route that makes boulderers and lead climbers happy at the same time.

I will compete the whole world cup circuit, bouldering and lead. I just want to get better in bouldering, some finals would be great. I have a conditioning coach now. I started working with him one month ago but on the wall I still coach myself, no changes there."

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ also by Klemen Becan  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan reports on Instagram that he has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana. This was the 19th ascent, out of which six just in 2017, of Ramon Julian Puigblanque's classical route from 2003. (c) Anja Becan

Last year, the 35 year old Slovenian did his first two 9a+'s, Joe Mama and Papichulo both in Oliana. He should also be considered as one of the best onsight climbers in the world with several 8c's under his belt. Until 2013, Klemen competed intensively in the World Cup for 13 years and won the event in 2008.

 
 
9b knee-dropping, clipping and screaming :)  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
Adam Ondra opens Arco's first 9b and repeats a 9a+  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has opened Arco's first 9b by doing the FA of Queen Line located in an ex-dry tooling crag with two more projects.

"17 moves of super hard intense pinching, crimping and drop-knees, into an easier finish. Quite hard 9b for sure, but probably only the harder finish breaks into 9b+. 4 days of work this trip, a few goes three yrs ago.

Stefano Ghisolfi is working a 9a+ and comments. (c) Matteo Pavana

"At the half of the wall of Queen line there is a small rest and then right after an easy top out. If you go straight after the rest it adds an 8c and that is the King line."

Directly afterwards, Adam moved to Masone where he repeated Ghisolfi's 100 moves 9a+ Ultimatum. "Icing on the cake after Queen Line." Read more on Ondra's Instagram with 100 000 followers.

In total, Adam has now done 17 routes 9b or harder which can be compared with the runner up, Chris Sharma, who has done eight. Then there are three guys who have done two: Stefano Ghisolfi, Jakob Schubert and Alex Megos.

 
 
10th 8B+ in seven months by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who the last three years has done more than 300 boulders 8A and harder has had a new strike. During the last week, he has done twelve 8A to 8B+, half of them FAs. Just during the last seven months, the full time electrician has done ten 8B+.

"Yesterday I checked out a possible extension into my new 8B+, see picture, which is about 8A on its own. It's a really cool and supertricky crack with a little feet first double toe hook section. Freaky! I think this thing will definitely get the 8C. There are a lot of other projects around 8A-8B+ in this area as well. Beside that I don't have any hard projects at the moment. But if the weather is fine I'll maybe go for a week to Switzerland at the beginning of May."

When it comes to doing multiple hard boulders, the 22 year old Austrian is probably #1 in the world. Interestingly, he got his first free climbing shoes this year. In total, Christof has done 445 boulders 8A and harder. The 8a member who has done the most 8A and harder is Paul Robinson with more than 800 listed.

 
 
Four 8a to 8a+ (b) onsight Alberto Gines (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlberto Gines has had a very productive week in Margalef having onsighted two 8a's and two 8a+', including Man of Steel, which many think are 8b. The 14 year old also redpointed Flash Over 8b+. He was also close to doing Fish eye 8c in Oliana, which would have been his third 8c. "It felt very good, I fell four moves from the top three times."

 
 
8B in some hours by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has had yet another amazing day doing an 8B, 8A, 7C+ and a 7C flash in Leavenworth. (c) Joel Zerr of The tea cup 8B.

"Wow.... had the most AMAZING first day EVER in Leavenworth! This place is BEAUTIFUL!! This line took me a couple hours or less. Sent Coffee Cup, Abstraction, The Practitioner and the Tea Cup all on my first day here, psyched for the rest of the trip!!!"

The runner up in the Boulder World Championship 2014, is also runner up in the 8a ranking game. In total, the 27 year old has done 139 boulders 8A to 8B+, including four flashes which makes her the best overall female boulderer. In 2017, she plans to do the Boulder WC in Vail and Munich beside Arco Rockmaster and Adidas Rockstar. In the long run, she might also go for the Olympics.

The next day she did one 7C+ and Monarch 8A on her second go, "Another good day in the woods. Should have been a rest day since my skin and body felt wrecked, but apparently the rain is coming tonight so forced rest day tomorrow! This place is amazing!!! :)"

 
 
8B+ (C) by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, who was #6 in the last Boulder WC, has done Chris Sharma's Practice of the Wild in Magic Wood giving it a personal 8B+ grade.

"If I compare POTW with New Base Line for example I would say they are the same challenge more or less. Though, POTW didn't feel like a real 8C to me. Not like this significant step towards another higher level compared to the other 8B+'s I've done in the past. I really want to be convinced by the difficulty of a climb to call it my first 8C boulder."

Last year, the full time psychology University student got the bronze in the Combined World Championship and the 21 year old is going for the Olympics. He also plans to do most of the World Cups in 2017. In the 8a Combined ranking game, the German is #6.

"Bouldering and Lead work well. Slowly improving in every area in trainings. I started to train speed as well but need to integrate it more into trainings. My personal best last year was around 8,5 seconds." (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Alizée Dufraisse does Estado Critico 9a  Facebook
 


Estado Critico 9a, Siurana, Alizée Dufraisse from Stéphane Hanssens on Vimeo.

 
 
Another extreme strike by Moritz Perwitzschky (17)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Perwitzschky has during the last eleven days recorded 24 routes 7c and harder, of which seven onsights. After the first rest day after his big Frankenjura marathon, the 17 year old finished off by doing his second 8c+, Pain makes me stronger, every day!

In February, Moritz did do a similar strike in bouldering with 23 ascents 7C to 8B over 13 days. Then we asked him, "Is it not time to raise the bar and go for something really hard?"
I think not. I just want to climb as much as possible and the result doesn't even matter. The fitness and the sends will come sooner or later, if you don't get injured. And as I don't do any systematical training, I don't really know, what I'm capable of so let's see. (b) Simon Weisser

 
 
No-Edge Technology explained  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c when she was 11 years old, has done Lucifer 8c+ in Red River Gorge. "The conditions haven't been the best at the Red and I definitely didn't believe in myself at times." (c) Melissa Mooney

What is interesting is that nowadays, the top young girls perform at the same level as the top boys at the same age. However, still Adam Ondra's track record, especially when it comes to onsight, is not yet beaten. He did his first 9a redpoint when he was 13 and first 9a+ when he was 15 years old.

Here is an 8a interview from last year where she says she started climbing in trees at seven years old and once she fell down her non-climbing parents took to a gym.

"I don’t have a trainer, I tried for a couple of months having an online trainer but it didn’t work out, so I just went back to training myself.

I write my own programs and have done this since I was 8. I find that this really works for me.

The hardest thing for me is keep myself motivated. I do this by setting goals, climbing with my adult friends and traveling overseas."

 
 
8c+ (9a) and a 8b+ flash by William Bosi (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureWilliam Bosi, who has done two 9a's before, has sent Jungle Speed in Siurana confirming down grading suggestions to 8c+. "So pyched I managed to do this amazing route in a day." Hubble, the former 8c+ by Moon in 1990, took six sessions so Bosi's very quick ascent of Jungle Speed, once again confirms the grade inflation.

The 18 year old also did his first 8b+ flash by El Món de Sofia where actually half the route was onsight as he only had beta for the first half.

What is the plan and ambition 2017?
I am here till the 22nd so I'll hopefully do some more stuff. I have been working on a film with Hot Aches Productions due out at the Kendal Film Festival this year so my goals are to get ticked some of the U.K.'s hardest routes. Still focusing on lead comps doing lots of the youth and some seniors.

 
 
Estado Critico 9a by Alizée Dufraisse  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizée Dufraisse has done the first female ascent of Estado Critico 9a in Siurana. Including five previous 8c+ or harder, four 8As and several top competitions results, the French woman must be considered as one of the best female climbers in the last ten years. (c) Jacopo Larcher

Full story on on her blog: "Last year, I spent quite some time on it, I was very close. As I chose to take part of the World Cup circuit of Bouldering, I had to leave without the ascent and I was very sad, but choices are like that, we can t have everything all the time. This year I realize that climbing outside is my priority and this is the reason of my climbing."

 
 
The Hukkataival 9A Documentary  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureBlack Diamond has, free of charge, published a 33-min documentary of Nalle Hukkataival doing the FA of Burden of Dreams 9a in Finland. The documentary is about fanatical dedication in its purest and finest form, coming close to insanity as Einstein says.

Nalle says he usually can do all the moves on any of the hardest boulders in the world in one session, but Burden of Dreams took him ten sessions. Hukkataival, who previously had 8C (+) as his personal best in max 13 days, does not comment on why he suggested it to be the world's first 9A, besides using this time comparison.

"So if you compare 13 days with 80+ days, that is a pretty major contrast." (Not counting indoor replica sessions).

Besides that, the documentary talks a lot about all of the factors that have to be working together like conditions, working out beta with friends and just pure luck when everything come together. In practice, these variables are the same as presented by 8a in 2008 for the Time Comparison Grading theory, see the second picture.

 
 
Going for 9a being 49 years old and 159 cm  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndrea Gennari Daneri from Pareti Magazine has conducted an interview with Alfreddo Webber, who at 49 years old is developing into a 9a climber. Last year, he has done four 8c's, including Reini's vibes 8c+, Video, in Arco.

"I’m close to 50 yo and now I work full time in a quarry, five days a week, 8 hrs a day. I wake up at 7am, breakfast, then 20 kms drive to the quarry. Back home at 6pm. Two days a week I have training on my wall at home. It’s a 1h 30’ work, basically long sequences, with intervals of some harder moves; then some hangs on crimps. When I’m projecting something hard for Sunday I have to rest on Friday and Saturday, otherwise I get weak. I’m less powerful than 20 years ago, but now I know myself better and I manage better my energies.

How’s that you reached the top at 49 and not 25 years ago?
Because I broke up with climbing at the age of 26, but I figure out that, if healthy, I have still some chances of improvement. (In 2013, he had a bad accident doing a big pendulum in Arco. It is just recently he removed the last steel from his leg.)

Aged climbers usually prefer slab climbing?
I like overhangs because I’m very short (1,59) and I need to find different betas for some sequences. I like slabs, too, but on lower grades.

 
Viola Battistella

Mamy on sight 7b, MUZZE
RONE
 
Andoni Esparta

White Zombie 8c, Baltzo
la
 
Aleksandra Taistra (f)

Mind Control 8c, Oliana
 
Lévy Desmarais

Divine Punishment 8a, R
ed River Gorge
 
Stasa Gejo

Memento 8b+, Kotečnik (
Slovenia) Photo taken
in March, but the route
got crushed today :)
 
Chris Barker

A Gift of Wings 7c at T
he Mine
 
Antônio Sérgio Monteiro

Red label v6 no setor 1
do Oriente.
 
Bonar McCallum

Lea Juszkiewicz on Kill
by Numbers V5, Joes Va
lley
 
Umberto Tilomelli

A 7a, Lumignano
 
Tobias Haug

tufa-party in the new r
ocks of Citdibi - Turke
y
 
Ryuichi Murai

Utsusemi 8b, Hourai
 
Monika Kastner

"Diabolo" 7b
 
Michael Füchsle

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Seth Zachek

 
Robin Reusser

Not the best conditions
...send the boulder aft
er 1 hour raining. Very
nice one.
 
James Simmons

Classic leg pumping AF
stem. One of the best f
or the grade in the can
yon. Photo Cred: Three
Peak Films
 
Maria Stefania Ionel (f)

Bloody Mary 8b, Cheile
Turzii
 
Michał Kwiatkowski

Super cantina marina 8a
, Chulilla
 
Markus Adamaszek

Zig zag, Fb 7a bloc, Al
barracín
 
Camilla Moroni

Première 7c+, Seynes
 
Mateusz Haladaj

The shoulder killer mov
e on Seleccio Natural 9
a, Santa Linya
 
Alex ey

Pedro Bergua in Superno
wa. Vadiello, Spain.
 
Casamatta hostel Hotel

Boulder: Nega Tereza V5
Sector - Eco Vila Pir
enópolis - Brasil Casa
mattahostel.com
 
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

The Big Island 8c, Font
ainebleau
 
Andre Krause

Der König der Welt fb 7
c, Okertal
 
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Lévy Desmarais - Divine Punishment 8a, Red River Gorge
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Traversi and Condie wins Floclimbing DWS  Facebook
Floclimbing, famous for almost closing a three year live-streaming contract with IFSC, has run Tuck Fest DWS. Carlo Traversi and Kyra Condie won the USD 5 000. In order to see this comp live you had to pay a monthly fee of USD 20 as wuld have been the case also for the World Cup streaming.
 
Confusing dilemma with the new 4 min rule  (4) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTwo weeks ago, I published, "A boulder final can turn into a horror show with the new 4 min rule", explaining that a boulderer might reach the top within the 4 min but might not get an OK. The IFSC rule says that in order to get an OK you should within the max 4 min,

"Controlled the marked finishing hold of the Boulder with both hands."

Ask can be seen on the picture, Alexey Rubtsov is dynoing to the top hold when there are two seconds left but even so he did not get an OK. It took him some three seconds to control the last holds with both hands as, his feet cut loose, to move his left hand, his feet cutting loose again.

Imagine if this had been in the Olympics and he had been one second earlier and most would have believed he made it and then it would have been up to the judge estimating split seconds, in order to give him an OK.

At least, the new 4 min rule must be changed so it is good enough to get to the last hold within the 4 minutes and then you are allowed to establish the controlled position for some seconds.
 
"Why strong fingers matter"  Facebook
Eric Hörst, a well known climbing trainer, explains Why strong fingers matters. This article might balance out the Cafe Kraft guys with a focus on almost everything but finger power.

"The bottom line: By increasing your limit strength and advancing your high-end climbing ability, the submaximal level at which you can climb with relative ease and aplomb—and in high volume—is elevated. Therefore, by making a long-term training commitment to getting stronger (and improving your mental and technical game) you may someday find your current maximum climbing level to be “moderate” and achievable in volume."
 
Ondra makes the highpoint on the way too hard Project  Facebook
It was nice to hear the interviews with Adam Ondra and his trainer Patxi Usobiaga and climbing wise Ondra set a new highpoint which some spectacular moves through the roof. However, as the start of the route is very simple, this was not as great show you would have expected, especially since the route must be considered way to hard. Nobody will top it getting the 5 000 Euro. In fact, the Klättercentret has said it might be as hard as 10a and you understand that this is cover up to make sure they do not have to pay out the money.

As the route is supposed to be a challenge for everyone, I find it hard to understand why they have not marked some holds or clip with grades. The idea was great but the route has to be rebuilt with a difficulty that could be possible to reach not just for Ondra.

 
Ondra vs the Project  Facebook
 
Kaplov set new Speed record at 7.46  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIuliia Kaplov won the first stage of the Speed World Cup and in the semifinal she set a new Speed record by 7.46. Among the male, Vladislav Deulin won but the fastest time was done by Danyil Boldyrev at 5.62, just 2 split seconds after his world record. It might be that a new auto belay system is part of the reason for the very good times also in general. High light video

Interesting is that no Boulderer, beside Sean McColl, at 8.45, did do any fast time. (c) Eddie Fowke
 
Boulder WC after two events  Facebook
1. Alexsey Rubtsov 145 - Shauna Coxsey 180
2. Kokoro Fujii 137 - Janja Garnbret 147
3. Jongwon Chon 128 - Stasa Gejo 102
4. Keita Watabe 120 - Miho Nonaka 102
5. Tomoa Narasaki 89 - Petra Klingler 94
Complete results

Interesting is that Japan has four guys within the Top-6. Only Shauna, Stasa and Keita have made it into the finals in both events.
 
Klemen Becan (34) enjoys late blooming  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKlemen Becan did 60+ WC before he won in Kranj 2008 being 26 years old. On rock he has also enjoyed late blooming and with three 9a+' the last year. With several 8c onsights he is already among the Top-3 in the world. One was actually 8c+ but has gotten down graded and he has been close on several 8c+'.

"Still my main goal is to onsight 9a hopefully also this will come one day as well, if not I will just enjoy the way until there. I was close to one 9a in Cuenca some time ago.", where he actually placed the quick draws. (c) Anja Becan

How many sessions did you need for La Rambla and how was the process?
I gave it one try 10 years ago and now I was trying it since the beginning of the year. Could maybe have done it faster if I would be focused only on this one, but where is the fun in that? Too many cool routes around here to do only one at the time :)

How can you explain your late progress on comps and rock?
Well I never thought I was a bad competition climber. Yes, I could have a better results but that is another story. Also I think the focus was never a big problem since even if I was "just" climbing I was still "training" more than many people. Not with written program and blindly following someone but with many tests and trying what is best for my body.

Now I still don't have a training plan. It's all in my head and apparently it works. I know enough to train myself
 
Fightclub 9b FA by Alex Megos  Facebook
 
Sean McColl wins no foot contest  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureYann Corby reports that Sean McColl won the No Foot Contest in Roc en Stock in Strasbourg.

"This year after the first round Sean was third, winning three tests; the campus board, a Parkour on climbing wood balls and the boulder. During this round Louis Giuca made an incredible performance with 14 one arm pull ups, see the picture by © Freddy"

Only two days later, Sean traveled to China and possible the No Foot Contest took to much juice as he missed the semifinal.
 
Siegrist projects down Pachamama 9a+  Facebook
 
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Bouldering is booming but not Combined  Facebook
The next weekend, the World Cup tour continues in China and based on the starting list we can see that bouldering is booming. There will be some 20 % more participants compared to last year and all the big names are listed. Interestingly, very few take the opportunity to try out Speed and the same for Speed climbers not trying Bouldering. Talking to several of the athletes, it seems that they wait for the qualification format to be set before they make the decision to go for Combined.
 
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Stefano Ghisoli a challenger for the Olympic gold  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMany have said that Sean McColl is the favorite to win the gold in Tokyo 2020 as he has won many Combined titles and as he has been competing in Speed for so many years.

The first challenger, beside Adam Ondra, could be Stefano Ghislofi who is currently the Italian Champion in 2010 and is 17 years old, at 7.96. Video The Italian has also won two Italian Cups in bouldering as well as being in one WC final in 2014.

"I do not plan to start training Speed until the Italian Federation prepares some training. My focus is climbing on rock besides the Lead World Cup and I think I could be as fast as in 2010 without so much training. I have not been thinking about it that much but I hope I do not need to sacrifice any outdoor climbing until the last year before Tokyo."

The dilemma for all the guys with Olympic ambitions that do not have any previous Speed background is that they will sacrifice outdoors. Most likely, the Speed training will actually make you drop some in your Boulder and Lead performance, and that can create anxiety.

The guys who ultimately will perform the best will probably be the climbers who do not need to train Speed to qualify. They can just continue as normal and start focusing hard on Speed just some months before the Olympic event. It just might be very hard to mentally start training Speed now and understand that you might perform worse in comps and outdoors for three straight years, just to have the chance to get a medal in 2020.
 


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