Set wide pyramid grade goals  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe 8a scorecard system, counting the Top-10 ascents, was set up in 2000 in order to promote pyramid grade goals. Such goals are more fun and will reduce the risk for injuries in comparison to just work on the next grade progress. To have a broad base in your pyramid will also make you a better climber in the long run.

If your personal best is 7a, try to do at least four before going to 7a+ and try to continue this 4-multiple so the day you do your first 7b, you have already around 16 7a's. The biggest risk if your pyramid starts looking like a spire is that it can very easily break and you might end up climbing.

The pyramid in the picture is from Christof Rauch's showing that there are much more potential to progress if he aims adding some rocks on the top of his grade pyramid. Also Adam Ondra has a solid base with more than 90 9a's.



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Moritz Perwitzschky (17) sets new standards  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Perwitzschky has done ten boulders graded 8A to 8B in Kochel this weekend. This means that the 17-year-old has done a total of 44 boulders 8A and harder in 2017! In 2016, he did a total of 22 boulders 8A and harder, seven out of which he sent in December. Something has really kicked in!

How can you explain this extreme progress?
I focused on rope climbing last year and also had school, so this year there's much more time for bouldering and I also use that for training too. Seems it works quite well for me.

Is it not time to raise the bar and go for something really hard?
I think not. I just want to climb as much as possible and the result doesn't even matter. The fitness and the sends will come sooner or later, if you don't get injured. And as I don't do any systematical training, I don't really know, what I'm capable of so let's see.



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Another two 8A (+) by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done Rumble in the Jungle and The Flame in Hueco Tanks, both originally 8A+ but now mostly considered as 8A's. "Two 8A's today! And I didn't use a single kneebar on this boulder! :) I tried both of these boulders many year ago psyched to have returned back to them today!" (c) Westmountainmedia



 
 
How to quickly improve your dyno technique  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIf you do not like dynos, you seldom practice them and as a result, your technique for this kind of move gets even worse. In the end you cannot even catch the next hold. You end up as a static climber but sometimes dynos or long reaches are the only way for doing your project or onsight. Here are the 14 advanced technical tips which may help you practice. Hopefully you will start liking and performing long dynos as you get better at them.

Do not let the picture frighten you. If you have not trained or practiced dynos or long catches during the last months, you should start very slowly. Even so you will improve your dyno technique tremendously after just few sessions as well as getting that nice adrenaline. Then you could opt for the 14 advanced technical tips.



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Megan Mascarenas's (19) portrait from Font  Facebook
 

This nice Font video shows a good portrait of Megan Mascarenas, #4 in the 8a ranking game, who was always in the Top-4 in the last six World Cups.

 
 
8B by Alex Puccio again  (3) Facebook
 

Alex Puccio, who previously has done two 8B+'s, has done her sixteenth 8B, Luther in Hueco Tanks." A bit more of a battle then I thought it was going to be. Would be an amazing climb if the beginning was higher off the ground, but the Chablanke wall is SO beautiful! Bigger power moves into an awesome climb! Skin is getting tougher for the real proj!!! :)"

 
 
Seb Bouin - The silent crusher  Facebook
 

Seb Bouin has done 21 routes 9a and harder. Even so, the silent crusher is not very well-known. In the video he explains his climbing vision, why and how he does this sport.

 
 
9a by Roberto Podio (36)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRoberto Podio jumps two grades up and does his first 9a, Grandi Gesti in Sperlonga.

"I started to try the route in December and the movements came naturally from the very start. I honestly thought that I would have done it in a short time but I have to admit that I had underestimated it, as you need a huge dose of concentration and endurance to do it.

It is extraordinary for me to join the èlite of people who can do the 9a, as it is an incredible emotion and this demonstrates that with the right amount of determination you can achieve everything. A special thanks to the Vertical Park gym and to all the friends who accompanied and supported me in this experience."

 
 
8c by Ida Kupś (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIda Kupś, who was #7 in the Boulder Youth Championship 2016, has done her first 8c, Fabelita in Santa Linya. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz tells us that in fact it was on her last day before going back to Poland.

"I was on a three-week climbing trip in Spain, mostly in Santa Linya, except few sessions in Oliana, Terradets and others nearby crags. This route was my main goal so I focused especially on it. I think it was more or less 10 days of work.

In 2017 I'd like to focus on bouldering comps, especially to prepare as good as I can for the WYCH in Insbruck. I plan to participate in some senior World Cups, probably Switzerland, Germany and Japan. I hope to have time for some small climbing trips outdors, mainly in Poland and maybe somewhere abroad during the summer holidays. These are my plans for now, but who knows what future will bring."

 
 
8c onsight by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Piotr Schab, who has already done four 9a's in February, has onsighted L'espiadimonis 8c in Margalef, which originally was an 8c+. Cold fingers, free mind, good flow, big fight!" In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year old Pole is #3.

 
 
Lucid Dreaming 8C by Toru Nakajima  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToru Nakajima reports on Facebook that he has done Paul Robinson's Lucid Dreaming in Bishop. It took the Japanese three years and 16 sessions. Given that Paul originally thought the problem was an 8C+ and that Alex Megos called it his hardest, it might be a contender to be upgraded?

"We arrived Bishop at 15th but rain kept us inside until yesterday. Rain stopped yesterday noon, i realized I can check holds and my condition on everything. we walked laughed load because of heavy snow this January. I cleaned up holds, put mats, and practiced crux move as like last year. I realized I can do crux move far easier than last year. Although my middle finger skin split, I thought I can complete this problem and have to do it now. I started from the beginning, caught the grassy and small pinch, and caught the final crimp like it was practice. I couldn't believe it while my way to the top, even I descended to the ground. I paid enormous energy and time, I felt heavy mental pressures during last two years, however I felt it more easier than I expected. I was really happy, but as times go on, I became confused. May be i have to wait for a while to understand what meaning this three seasons. Thank you everyone who cheered and supported me!!"

 
 
Monster whipper by Ondra on Neanderthal 9b  Facebook
 

Henning Wang got the last day action from Adam Ondra's tries on Neanderthal 9b, where he got very high up "Despite the conditions, (wet tufa, 20+ degrees, high humidity)," and after skipping many quickdraws did fall probably some 20 meters.

 
 
8c+ by Pietro Biagini (16)  Facebook
 

Pietro Biagini, who did his first 8c+ almost two years ago, has done Anchorage 8c+ in Albenga, and he only needed two sessions. In the Combined Youth World Championship, the Italian got the bronze but later it turned out that the calculation was wrong and he was #4.

What is you plan and ambition 2017?
I really don't know if I can be part of the team that will go to the Olympics in 2020, but this year one of my most important objectives in addition to the world championships in Innsbruck will be definitely the qualification for the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires in 2018. In fact this year I will train more the Speed ​​for having more chances in the combined! Of course I also have many ideas for the rock and I would also participate in some of the World Cup.

A dilemma for Pietro is that it is two hours driving from where he lives to the nearest IFSC Speed wall so he also agrees that it would be better if there were verious speed climbing routes.

 
 
8C FA by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi has done the FA of Kuzo 8C in Mie, which adds an 8B dyno intro to Borsalino 8B+. In the 8a ranking game, the Japanese is #2.

"Finally stick the Dyno from start!!!! 7 moves 8B+ and 1 move 8B (Crux Dyno). I am very proud to add new vision for this legendary problem. Could be C+ but I don't have such a experience to judge that border line. Time will tell:) On to the next!!!"

 
 
First 8A by Leo Skinner (just 13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLeo Skinner, who turned 13 two days ago, has done his first 8A, Butch Cassidy at Dinas Rock and it went down fast.

"Three and a bit sessions and it went down in the wet. glad to get this done whilst I'm still young! stuck the bottom crux moves and power screamed through until the finish. out of nowhere!"

Here is a video from Albarracin he edited some 10 months ago and his coach, Morgan Preece, they got the 8A on film.

 
 
8B (A+) by Caroline Sinno in Font  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCaroline Sinno, who had sent three 8A+'s previously, has done Miroir de vanité 8B (A+) in Fontainebleau. In the 8a ranking game, the owner of Crimpoil is #11.

"Nice trav opened by Jean-Pierre Bouvier back in the days on the boulder of haute tension in Rempart. I found the moves very cool and it's pretty short and intense (around 15 moves) so I didn't feel I was pump but more struggling for the last hard move and a bit scared for the top out. Good training for my other project la cicatrice! I was thinking more 8a+ for the grade but I don't know?"

 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi gets the Highpoint on the Project  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi got the highpoint on the Project as a nice birthday present and in fact he could be called superior. In reality, the show and route could have been better as we did not see too much fight as it starts very easy in comparison to World Cup routes. Furthermore, the limited rest and possibly also the fact that conditions got worse due to the crowd, which warmed the place, made the second attempt mainly worse.

The climber who has the highpoint each year Will get 1 000 euro. If you manage to top out, you get 5 000 euro. It seems impossible even if Adam Ondra will try later this spring.

 
 
The 10a-ish Project in Stockholm  Facebook
 

 
 
Less climbing time in Boulder and Speed WCs  (26) Facebook
 

According to the French Mountaineering Federation, IFSC has reduced the maximum climbing time in the semis and finals in Lead competitios in 2017 from eight to six minutes. Interesting is that 10 years ago climbers were allowed to spend 15 minutes up on the route. Since then 8a has several times suggested that six minutes should be the maximum and also that time should decide on ties, which has been the case for some years now.

IFSC has also reduced the time in bouldering finals to four minutes instead of 4+ minutes. Last year, the finalists were allowed to start the last attempt at 3.59, resting as much as possible. In 2017, they will have to start about 3.30 in order to top out before the bell.

In practice, this might make the final attempt more exciting for the spectators. Most probably, some guys will fail due to the new time constraint. Furthermore, it will make the final more of an endurance challenge as the boulders will have to rest less in between attempts and also in between boulders.

 
 
9a FA by Cody Roth  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCody Roth, #6 in his Lead World Cup debut back in 2003, has done the FA of Me I Eat Dust 9a in Texas. "I'm not at liberty to give the name or location of this secret spot, but if someone is interested in trying these routes, access can likely be arranged" (c) Kilian Fischhuber

- This route does the crux of I, Me, Mine, (downgraded to 8c+ which Kilian actually did second go and he also flashed an 8b+) then carries into an 8A+/8B boulder problem with no rest in between. It's basically a 20 move sequence where only one hand can be chalked.

Time wise, last year after I did I Me Mine, I started trying this thing but tore a pulley three days in. I recovered and made some progress in the Spring, but then Summer arrived. I resumed trying it in October or November before suffering the breaking hold set back. Hard to say how many days I put in, for sure more than anything else I've done, but I have little to zero interest in grading anything harder than 9a, I'm old school!

A few weeks ago I did my first 8b+ flash and red pointed two 8c+ in a handful of tries, although I downgraded one of them. I guess I'm in a good vein of form. I'm now 33 and climbing maybe better than ever mainly because I know it's fleeting. In my 20's I wasn't very good at prioritizing, I'd stay up until 3 partying and wake up at 9 to go climbing. I never wanted my climbing to be forced or planned. I didn't want to overthink it. I owe a lot of my recent success to my girlfriend and my community here in Austin, they keep me grounded and motivated.

 
 
400 registered for Melloblocco in 48 h  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelloblocco has been the biggest climbing festival in the world for several years. The dates for 2017 are 11-14 May and already, after 48 h from opening the registration, more than 400 boulderers have signed up.

 
 
15 Boulders 7C to 8B in six days by Moritz Perwitzschky (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Perwitzschky is in the flow, which he proved doing 15 boulders graded 7C and harder during the last six days, including four 8A+'s and one 8B. To make his recent performance even more impressive, he has done 31 boulders 8A and harder only in 2017. One of his tricks to keep warm. New video.

"For keeping our Fingers warm we heat up some stones to put them in the calkbag which works quite well." (c) Hannes Pablitschko

 
 
Age & Gender Ranking and more  (20) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the list of the Top-5 in our Age & Gender ranking game. You can also find ranking games based on onsight or flash. Another option is to play the game with your friends for specific crags, where you can set your specific criteria.

 
 
New kids climbing shoes from La Sportiva  Facebook
 

 
 
8c+ by Loic Zehani (16)  (2) Facebook
 

Loic Zehani, who did two 9a FAs last year, has done his sixth 8c+, Alien Carnage in Castillon in just six tries. Check the video. In the 8a ranking game the 15-year-old is #9.

 
 
Lattice Performance Training  Facebook
 

 
 
Christof Rauch does two 8A's or harder every week  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFor the last three years Christof Rauch has been doing almost two 8A or harder Boulders every week, including 10 8B+'s just last year. To make it even more impressive, he works full time as an electrician and building technician on a water plant where he always has Fridays off.

What is your drive going for so many hard Boulders instead of just projecting 8C's?
Actually I try a lot of hard boulders at the 8B+ and 8C range but most of the time I try some slightly "easier" climbs as well. It's just frustrating for me when I climb nothing for a while. I would say that I have some really good substance. When I am on the rock I mostly climb for about 8h with a few breaks around 20-30 min.

Basically I train 1 or 2 times a week in the gym after work and on the weekend I always climb outdoors for 2 times. For example the whole last year i had less than 10 gym sessions on the weekend. If you have no problem with a lot of driving and you're motivated enough you always find a dry spot.

I have no specific way to choose my projects. I just try what looks cool and could suite me at least a little bit, then I decide if I keep trying it or put it to rest till I get stronger. Sometimes I do some specific preparation for my projects. For example when I have a project with a lot of underclings I try to built some similar boulders in the gym. But most of the time I just do some basic training with a little bit of fingerboarding and campusing.

What about your stretching exercises?
I do a lot of stretching for my arms and my legs every day but beside that I do some massage on my forearms and fingers cause of some chronical tendinitis/inflammation. After that I do a few stretching exercises for my fingers and wrist as well.

Interview by Stefan Koechel from last December.

 
 
More big ascents by Ondra in Oliana  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, who did a 9b FA in Oliana three days ago, has during the following two days onsighted one 8b+ and two 8c's as well as doing the FA of an 8c, and Happy Day 9a/+. "Super crimpy and weird moves, which is my style. Extension of Happy Hour. Bolted by Dani and Jon Cardwell?"

In total, the 23-year-old has done 73 routes 8c to 9a, which can be compared with the runner-up with about 15 lines within this grade range. In the picture taken by Pierre Delas from Fanatic Climbing, you can also see Adam's girlfriend Iva Vejmolová, who just did her first 8b+, Gorillas en la niebla.

 
 
9a (+) and 9a in a day by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who did two 9a's in Santa Linya last week, has done another two today: Fuck the System and Selecció anal, which is actually considered a 9a+ by other repeaters. (c) Pablo Benedito

Please tell us about your new training regime.
"In my training program there is almost everything it takes to be a professional in any sport. But above all there is a group of highly motivated people. This makes the biggest difference in the progression. When there are positive vibes during training, it can become a priority in ones everyday life. Each day needs to be scheduled and balanced, while being patient and consistent is the key. Seems like all the rest should be our club's mystery.

My coach is Maciej Oczko and physio is Magda Terlecka. This physio work was a key to let me train hard all the time. In Kraków we have a good team spirit and an experienced coach so we can test a lot of methods.

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg has done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana after just six days of projecting. "I opened the door to a new personal dimension in climbing. Curious about what I am capable of accomplishing in the future. Vamoooooooossssss amigos!" (c) Iuliia Leonova

So how were you able to open that door?
"Well, since I haven't trained specifically for the route it must have been my mental state and the strategy I've chosen how to cope with the challenge, I guess. I didn't put any big pressure on myself, took it easy. Dedicated trying the route over and over again and didn't switch to easier routes to build up the required endurance there. Got better with every try I made, adapted and optimized my beta after every fall or mistake. Finally the right conditions set in (cold and windy), I was convinced of sending it and suddenly stood on top."

 
Viktor bauch

Mali Ivo Sit 7c+, Chemn
itztal
 
Andreas Hanisch

Ekel 7c+, Frankenjura
 
Chuck Odette

Charlie on Habitat for
Humanity (V7)
 
Unai Martínez Malaxechevarría

The Climb Open Boulder
Festival 2017
 
Alizée Sanchez

Fontainebleau
 
Aleksandra Taistra (f)

Metallica 7c, Tatry
 
Stefan Bednar

Opium 8a, Fontainebleau
 
Andre Krause

Der König der Welt fb 7
c, Okertal
 
Stefano Ghisolfi

Pure Imagination 8c+, R
ed River Gorge
 
Leon Trip

Water soloing in Hydra
Greece
 
Fiz Gomez Gratacos

Pablo en "Agujeros de C
aracol", 7b, Cova do Re
i Cintolo
 
Iris Gutiérrez

La bella 7b, Lliber
 
Unai Santa Kruz

ARR-B53-L8 7b, Albarrac
ín
 
Werau Chimmer

Pinswang "Stein des Ans
toßes" 2016 (2)
 
David Duez

Slurpee Stand 7b+ Cumb
erland Boulders
 
Heiko Queitsch

"Claude Monet" fb8a+ fi
rst ascent -Frankenju
ra- Photo: Frank Kre
tschmann
 
Christian Welkhammer

Priesterrat (fb8a+), Bg
l Priesterstein
 
Mikołaj Nowotnik

Unendliche Geschichte 2
8a, Magic wood
 
Michael Füchsle

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
User Deactivated

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

Peckitts Traverse 7C at
Biblins Cave
 
Markus Köhler

Christian Burkhart doin
g the FA of "Mr. Nice",
Pfalz
 
Chuck Odette

Training session in Mar
io Land, UT
 
José David Martínez

Tiburon 7a+, Pedregosa
 
Ryuichi Murai

Sky 8b+, Rocklands
 
Search & Add Ascents
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Roman Batsenko - Maja Rudka on her first 8b, Codigo Norte in Santa Linya, Spain
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Adjust your strength for specific routes/boulders  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIf you train hard on crimpers you actually, in the short run, loose some strength on sloopers or deep two finger pockets. In other words, if you train hard indoors for your next trip or outdoor project, you better train on the same type of holds and gripping positions.

The good thing is that it just takes some few sessions to adjust your strength for specific routes/boulders by recruitment finger training.

The weakest position for most climbers is normally the open crimp as in the picture. By making this gripping position stronger, in between open hand and closed crimp, you get a more balanced repertoire.
 
More arguments for a varied IFSC Speed route  Facebook
As Combined Climbing will be part of the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, Speed climbing will also be included in most of national Youth Championships. The dilemma is that 13-year-old girls and boys will be challenged on the same route as professional adults. The current fixed 6b+ is actually much harder to do for a 140 cm tall girl.

The last Youth World Championship showed that also the younger girls can climb it quite fast. You needed to do the climb in 12.28 seconds to make it into the final, which is almost doubled time for adult male. However, in the Oceania Championship, the winner climbed the Speed route in 55 seconds. Imagine how many short 13-year-olds will actually not be able to top out or to do it in less than one minute in upcoming nationals.

Somebody could argue that there could be Speed routes fixed for different ages, height and levels but this would not be fair as the very best youngsters would need to optimize their training on different routes.

The simple solution is to skip the fixed Speed route and instead let it vary for each event, like Lead routes. In practice this means that the Speed route could be any grade from 5a to 7a making everyone focus on Speed instead of trying to redpoint the Olympic Speed route sub 1 minute.
 
The female Combined Ranking Game  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureThere are few climbers who perform at a high level on both routes and boulders. Here is the Top-5 Combined female ranking where Amanda Berezowski (in the picture) is #2. Last year she did her first 8b+ and during the last week, she did her first three 7C+'s. The boulder in the photo is Slow Dance in Bishop.

"Climbing is my life! I started in Calgary on a competitive youth team, travel, climb and compete internationally, was part of developing the Virgin Gorda." Check her blog!
 
Anchor grabbing ethics  (4) Facebook
"Can you record a route where you grabbed the anchor?"

If you grab an anchor, you do the route artificially and you should not record it. In general this also means that the anchor is misplaced and you can add a variation of the route with a lower grade if you just reached the clipping position. Climbing accomplishments should be about doing sequences and not jumping to anchors or reaching high up to clip a misplaced anchor.
 
Prana - the great female supporter  Facebook
Alan Moore has done a research on Which Climbing Companies Sponsor The Most Women?. Here is his list of top 10 out of 19 companies primarily taken into account. It interesting that all the six companies who have had banners on 8a last year are at very top of the list, written in bold.

1 Prana 45%
2 Sterling Ropes 41%
3 Mammut 38%
4 Five Ten 36%

5 Evolv 35%
6 Metolius 31%
7 Mad Rock, North Face, La Sportiva 29%
10 Black Diamond, Petzl 28%

Here you can find another research showing that only some 5% of topos have been written by female.
 
Suggestions for The Project  (4) Facebook
The idea and concept of Klättercentret's challenge, The Project, is really nice. Here are some suggestions how to make it more interesting.

1. Make the route a 9b, it will still be the hardest indoor route in the world and if someone tops it out, just make the last move harder, i.e. 9b+.

2. Put up a first 9a anchor with equal money prize for the female. The current Euro 5 000 for the top is a bit discriminating for the female.

3. Attach grades to the some holds on the way so an average Joe could try and go for a personal best.

Naturally sponsors can say that they want their athletes to go and try the route but in reality why should a rock climber invest weeks for working on a project they know they cannot do. Would the rock climber not try to do their 9a project instead?
 
Red Rocks from Mobråten  Facebook
 
The steepest ice climbing in the world?  Facebook
 
La Sportiva Climb in 60 Gyms starts today in Moscow  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe annual Climb-In-Gym Tour starts today in Moscow and until 25/4, the LaSportiva will visit 60 big gyms in 13 countries in Europe.
 
Athletes try and comment The Project  Facebook
 
8c+ by Adam Ondra - OS or RP?  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done Politicamente Corruptos 8c+ in Margalef, which he has recorded as a redpoint, commenting, "Just did the other 8c+ seven years ago which share the same start (more or less 7c+)...so going ethically into the detail, hard to say if it is actually an onsight." The photo by Henning Wang is from Neanderthal 9b, which is Adam's current project.

Basing on the 8a Practice & Ethics we think this is just OK to call it an onsight and many would do. It is impossible to use a black or white onsight definition as climbers often get some onsight beta hanging out at the crag and sometimes even belaying a friend.

Thus, onsight is often in the grey zone. Let us say that the shared start was just a 6a climb - then everyone would agree on Adam's onsight. This is 8a's green light for onsight. Do you agree?
"When the shared part of the climb is more than a full grade lower, i.e. two 7c+ routes have the same 6c start."
 
Hueco from Martin Mobråten  Facebook
 
Smart climbing gym from Vertical Life  Facebook
 
La Reina Mora 9a (8c+) by David Firnenburg  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenberg, who just did his first 9a+, La Rambla in Siurana, finished the trip off by sending also La Reina Mora 9a (8c+). "It might be one of the most beautiful climbs in whole Catalonia." (c) Jon Cardwell

David was #3 in the Combined World Championship and he is trying to make it to Tokyo 2020.

What is your opinion about the Olympic format?
In my opinion the Olympic Games offer a chance to professionalize our sport. Therewith connects the hope that more climbers and also better than before can live from climbing. Though, this process must be fulfilled in a responsible manner. The experience from other sports show that the more money is involved the more questionable and even unfair practices are being made and the original idea is alienated. Therefore, we must observe the effects and also side effects related to the Olympic Games critically. This includes the format which is shaped by the IOC and IFSC. I suppose that factors such as TV-suitability, dramaturgy and successive selection are consulted as decisive. Probably it won’t be a format, like in the actual overall-ranking of the World Championships or proposed by 8a.nu, where the athletes collect points and a calculated overall-title is certain in the end but rather a format which generates a clear winner for the layperson to be identified on the last day of the games.

The option of a duel format is already part of speed climbing and can be nicely accommodated here. The essentials of bouldering and lead climbing are different from time comparison in the first place and should get their chance to be expressed, too. I appreciate that 8a.nu gives the athletes a platform to proclaim their thoughts and I hope that this contributes to a better result for everyone finally.
 
First 8C by Nicholas Milburn  Facebook
Nicholas Milburn sending his first 8C, Paint in Black in RMNP in December. Last month he did his first 8B+, Jumpman in Boulder Canyon.
 


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