Ghisolfi relocates to Arco to take it to the next level  Facebook
 



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8A (+) by Oriane Bertone (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has done Tea with Elmarie 8A (+) in Rocklands. "Fantastic & funny line. Probably soft for tall climbers. Oriane needed many sessions to do the last move," reports her father. Video.

During the last eight months, the 11-year-old has done eight Boulders between 8A to 8B and she is #4 in the ranking game.



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8B by Isabelle Faus again  Facebook
 

Isabelle Faus has done her 7th 8B in the last eight months, Free Range (aka Cage Free Assis) in Boulder Canyon. "Battle for me, psyched to do it. On to the next."

In the 8a ranking game, Isabelle is #1 among the female and #19 overall, which actually makes her the highest ranked female since 8a started in 2000. Her score is also the highest ever! Here you can find the freshly released video of her doing an 8B+.



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Best Climbing rope 2017?  Facebook
 




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Exclusive training weeks with Ondra, Usobiaga & Findlay  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRockbusters invite you to a very exclusive training camp in Siurana and Margalef where Adam Ondra will be your personal onsight and redpoint coach for two days. For the first two days you will have Patxi Usobiaga as your personal coach analyzing your strengths and weaknesses.

"Expect a lot of climbing with a focus on strategy and mindset. The goal? To send a route first time that’s above your normal level. Not only is there bucket loads of hands on coaching from Adam but all the typical Rockbusters fun."

The camp starts on the 11 of March and the week before Rockbusters will run a one week mental coaching course with Hazel Findlay.



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Training For Climbing EP 5 w/ Eric Hörst  Facebook
 

 
 
Rocklands has got cheaper, Railay - more expensive  (6) Facebook
 

Railay beach has been considered the cheapest climbing destination in the world but as the baht is getting stronger and prices, especially for bungalows, have increased, Kalymnos actually turns out to be cheaper.

Norway is considered the most expensive climbing destination in the world and that is probably still true even if the Norwegian crown has dropped over the last few years.

The 'climbing currency' that has dropped the most in the last five years is the South African rand so Rocklands is about 30% cheaper for most foreigners compared to only three years ago. It should also be mentioned that the USD is getting stronger so it is more expensive to go to Red River Gorge, Hueco Tanks and other US crags.

 
 
Groundbreaking ascents 2016  (6) Facebook
 


 
 
Two 8c+'s by Matteo Menardi (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatteo Menardi, who did his first 9a two years ago, has done two 8c+'s in Fonzaso, Drumtime and Il Gladiatore.

What are you projects/plans, what about training and comps?
Probably I will come back to Fonzaso, because there is still one stunning line to climb; otherwise I'm going to try some unfinished projects closer to my home. I'm also looking forward to climb in the Osp Cave!

Because I like climbing outside, I train climbing on hard routes. I also train indoor and, when I do not have the possibility to lead climbing, I enjoy training on a small board in my house. I will climb outdoor and, afterwards, I'm going to decide about the training for the competitions.

 
 
8c+ by Ola Przybysz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOla Przybysz, who had a personal best of 8b some eight months ago, has done her first 8c+, Spicy Noodle in Yangshou. A possible explanation for the great progress can be found on Facebook. (c) Eben Farnworth

"Recently I realized that the last couple of years of my life were just a sick game to a person that I thought was really close to me. The heaviness and premeditation of the actions are a real shock to me. There are some things that even with the most detailed explanation I will never understand. It’s just not something from the world I am from....This climb worked like a cure."

 
 
9a again by Nicolas Favresse  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Favresse has done Du neuf avec du vieux 9a in Briançonnais after a month of training as a preparation for his next big Patagonia project. The route was put up by Yann "Diego" Ghesquiers in 2015. It is interesting that Nicolas never trains indoor or even uses a hang board.

"For the past 3 years I have been struggling with a few injuries which have prevented me to push myself in climbing. First I tore a ligament in my wrist which forced me not to climb for a total of 8 months. It was my longest break ever. Then I started to have some issues with my cervical spine which i damage a while ago on a 10m ground fall in the Gunks. The tricky thing is it irritates a nerve whenever I do any physical exercise and then my shoulder tend to become less stable because of that.

So the solution for me is to climb mostly on low angle climbs, take a lot of rest and replace indoor training with ski touring in the mountains or other cardio activities. I am really surprised to see how well it works for me.

I am pretty psyched because in a few days I go to Torres del Paine, Patagonia with my friends Sean Villanueva and Siebe Vanhee and we need to be strong because our goal is to attempt to free climb a line on the East face of the central Tower. The Torres del Paine has some of the best quality granite in Patagonia and the East face of the Central Tower is longer than El Cap in Yosemite and just as blank and steep! Off course we will bring musical instruments on the wall so that we can elevate ourselves with our music."

 
 
8C again by Ichimiya Daisuke  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIchimiya Daisuke has done the third ascent of Horizon 8C in Hiei after seven days of projecting. It was put up by Dai Koyamada and repeated by Ashima Shiraishi. "This problem is a long roof like an horizon..so cool!!"

The 23-year-old's biggest plan for 2017 is to go back to Colorado again, where he has unfinished business with Jade 8B+ and The Game 8C.

 
 
20 min endurance boost  Facebook
 

 
 
First Ley 9a+ by Stefano Ghosolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his seventh 9a+, First Ley in Margalef, which shares the stat of his ultimate goal, First Round First Minute 9b. The Italian is #2 in the ranking game. (c) Paolo Sartori

" I fell around 6 or 7 times at the last crux but today I finally sticked it and climbed easily until the chain. I just checked the last section of First Round and it is pretty hard, tomorrow I will try to link some moves."

 
 
8a news also in German  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe 8a news is now available in Spanish, Italian, French, German, Swedish, Polish and Slovak. Just click on the flag in top right of the site and the big headline news will be presented in your language. You can also find the latest hard ascents from a total of 40 countries. If there is anybody who would like to help out as a new country specific editor, just send an email to jens@8a.nu.

 
 
Best Climbing shoe 2017?  (4) Facebook
 


 
 
8B by Pietro Biagini (16) in Varazze  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePietro Biagini, who won one Euro Boulder Cup in 2015 and was #4* in the Combined World Championship 2016, has done his first 8B, Alphacentauri in Varazze. He also did Raptor 8B, skipping the elimination holds, and suggested a personal grade of 8A for this variation. In the 8a combined ranking game, the 16-year-old is #3 among the juniors.
The photo is from Smeagol 7C.

* In the original official results, Pietro was #3 and he also got his bronze standing on the podium in China. One week later, IFSC admitted that they had published the wrong calculation.

 
 
8b (a+) by Cathy Wagner (51) in two tries  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCathy Wagner has done La Kanabica in Rodellar in just two tries, suggesting a personal 8a+ grade. "One of my favourite routes in Rode! Like other climbers, I think there is some inconsistency in the grading... Classics like Florida (L1) or Gladiator are so much harder and much closer to 8b than la Kanabica." In total the 51-year-old has done 572 routes graded 8a and harder, out of which 49 up to 8b in 2016.

Fanatic Climbing has helped with a translation of their interview. "I warm up less and less. I have not the patience to deal with and it's an error. My best flash routes have been done completely cold. The few warm up I do it's tai-chi movements, I started lessons since a year. It permits at the moment for me to keep moving my energy with softness and to focus about the moves of the route I'm trying when I'm at the ground."

 
 
Two 8b flashes and two 8c+'s by Peter Dawson (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePeter Dawson has had a great trip to Spain again. He has done his first two 8b flashes and also his first two 8c+'s, Blomu R3 in Santa Linya and Joe Blau in Oliana. In the Junior 8a ranking game the 18-year-old is #6.

"The most valuable lesson I can take from this trip is to enjoy the process. If it was easy it wouldn’t be worth doing. If it’s hard there is doubt and worry but you must keep going. Sending the route is only half the fun!" Full report on his blogspot.

 
 
First 8C by world champion Alexey Rubtsov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlexey Rubtsov, the World Champion 2009 and #3 in the World Cup 2016, has done his first 8C, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico. It has been a long time project for the Russian but interestingly he did it just over four attempts on this trip.

"From the beginning of 2016 I don't work, so now, for the first time I consider myself professional. So I feel myself better now, and climb better! I will try to get a ticket to Olympics, but I still don't decide if I will change my training program to become overall climber or to stay just a boulderer, that might be enough!

This year I will go on all Boulder World Cup stages, World Games, maybe will try to compete in Lead once.My nearest plans are to go to ABC nationals in USA and little bit rock climbing there. After again training, because soon will be first WC!"

 
 
9a (+) by Jakob Schubert  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert, who has done two 9a+'s in Oliana during the last two weeks, reports on Facebook that he has done Seleccio Anal in Santa Linya, calling it 9a (+). "an amazing goodbye gift after another very fun catalunya trip." (c) Elias Holzknecht

What are your 2017 and Olympic plans?
"I'm never 100% sure about my plans since I like spontaneous decisions, but right now I'm planning to go back to bouldering Worldcups this year. There are more reasons to it, first I'm enjoying bouldering a lot too and kind of wanna take the challenge to get back into it, it seemed to have changed a lot over the last years and I had troubles to adapt. Second I really want to travel to some crags that are best in summer and fall and that is why I probably want to skip most lead worldcups for the first time. I'm talking about Rocklands but also have some others in mind, we will see.

I do have the goal to make it to the Olympic Games in 2020, still waiting for the final decisions how the qualification for it and the actual format will look like. Obviously I'm not very psyched to start training speed, but it's a sacrifice that I will take nevertheless."

 
 
8C barefoot in Font again for Charles Albert  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of SDS to Délire onirique 8C in Fontainebleau after about 10-15 sessions. "Easy 8c for tall dudes. Gotta find new hard projects now." Charles is around 183 cm tall.

In December, "Mowgli" did the FA of La révolutionnaire 8C and earlier he did the direct version of Le Pied à Coulisse 8C, which is considered impossible if you use shoes. EpicTV video presentation

 
 
8c+ in Oliana by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has done Joe Blau 8c+ in Oliana. The 15-year-old extends her lead in the 8a ranking game and in fact, in the history of female climbers' ranking her last year tick list is among the Top-5 ever. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi

"I did one try four days ago but I thought it was too hard because I had only two more days left before the end of the trip. Yesterday, after a rest day, we come back to Oliana. I wanted to try Mind control but there were too much people on the route so I decided to try Joe Blau again. I understood all the moves and I did a very good try. I fell at the very last move because of the blood on my finger. Today I felt tired and my skin was almost finished but I decided to try it and after a long battle I reach the chain."

 
 
8c OS and a 9a (+) RP by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, #4 in the Lead WC 2016 including a victory in one event, has done Definicion de resistencia democrata in Terradetts, which he gives a personal 9a grade. (c) Fabio Fin. A few days later he onsighted his first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana, which took some 30 minutes. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old Italian is #3.

"2017 will be focused on both competition and rocks, I did not have plans know for the Olympic until the official rules will be decided! I don't know what is the best format in speed, I don't like it too much."

 
 
Ondra Vs Stranik Climbing Duel  Facebook
 

 
 
Many death trap bolts in Sardinia and other marine crags  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGianluca Piras has published a horror video from a 6b+ in Masua, Lovely Licia. The glue-in bolt was just some ten years old but it breaks in his hands after seconds. Maurizio Oviglia, a Sardinia local, says that the first breakage on the island happened in 2012 and later at least another 20 stainless steel 304 bolts have got broken. The terryfying fact is that bolts which appear to be in quite good shape can break as well due to SCC internal stress corrosion cracks, mainly in marine environment.

We have asked the bolt manufacturer Raumer to comment and we will follow up. Here is the UIAA report from 2015, warning against stress corrossion. Oviglia would like to spread the info that bolts are at risk, especially in Biddiriscottai, Casarotto, Millennium and Cala Fuili/Cala Lina. It should also be mentioned that the glue-in bolt should have been placed much deeper so that the ring would have contact with the rock.

 
 
8c's in Oliana by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has had two amazing days in Oliana having done two 8c's: T1 Full Equip and Fish Eye. (c) Fabio Fin

The 15-year-old and 151 cm tall Italian explains what she likes the most in climbing. "I like climbing because every time is different and every move has different solution and I love search and find my method sometimes using other holds. When I climb my mind is free. I like the contact with the nature and the battle with myself."

 
 
8C/+ by Jonathan Flor  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Flor reports on Instagram that he has done Crisis 8C/+ near Crevillente, which was put up by Nacho Sánchez. The 20-year-old's second last Instagram post was from the Boulder WC in Munich, 20 weeks ago, when he made it to the semi. Previously, the Spaniard has done six 8c+ Routes and three 8B Boulders.

 
 
Seleccio Natural 9a also by Evan Hau  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEvan Hau, who did his first 9a in 2013, has done Seleccio Natural 9a in Santa Linya. (c) Firnenburg brothers

" Yes!! My second 9a! Feels good, I haven't climbed this grade since 2013 even though I feel much stronger than I was back then. After sampling this route last year I knew I had to come back to give it a solid try! One of the best climbs I have ever been on!"

 
 
Eric Karlsson: popular vlog trainer and motivator  Facebook
 

Eric Calsson started doing one bouldering video each day in June and normally his videos get more than 5 000 views a day. The concept is high quality training video. Check out his channel!

 
Selcuk Dilki

Burnout-Syndrom 7a+, Ok
ertal
 
Thomas anelli

Tom..Lagalb 23/12/2015
 
Claudia herrmann (f)

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Robin Reusser

Not the best conditions
...send the boulder aft
er 1 hour raining. Very
nice one.
 
David Duez

Nine Lives 7c, Chattano
oga
 
Viola Battistella

Viola Battistella tout
a Bloc 2015 4 class.
 
Pablo Gómez Ruiz

Mundello 8a, Moclin
 
Amandine Lonchambon

Andonno, Italy
 
Mirthe van Liere

Impulse 7c, Maltatal, A
ustria.
 
Mike Gabl

Samanta in "die Kante"
6b / Klettergarten Stam
s /Tirol
 
Seth Zachek

 
Mattijs van der Knaap

Baloo 7a+, Fontaineblea
u
 
Roman Pfitscher

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Kamil Mucha

Margarita 6c, Kalymnos
 
Stefan Bednar

Sofa Surfer 8a+, Magic
wood
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Tout à Bloc 2015 1st pl
ace
 
Rafa J. García

Papa ven en tren (7a+),
Salinas
 
George Carmichael

Enter the Dragon 8A+, T
remeirchion
 
Ryuichi Murai

Kudama 8b+, Shiobara
 
Stefan Bednar

The left hand of darkne
ss 8a+, Magic wood
 
Elliot Gaunt

The Politician 7b+, Rum
bling Bald
 
Jan Hasenbichler

Austria, Steinernes Mee
r, Waldeinsamkeit 7c+
 
Mikhail Lyubimov

Bal 6a, Pesherka
 
Chuck Odette

maggie sky dancing her
way up don't mess with
texas
 
Andreas Hanisch

El varano 7c+, Albarrac
ín
 
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Which ropes should you use?  Facebook
 
Speed routes must vary!  Facebook
Eddie Fowke gives his ideas for reinventing Speed climbing and I do agree but I would also like to add that the key issue for an Olympic success is to allow varied routes. In fact even the world record holder Danyl Boldyrev agrees that a fixed route is boring and actually, even in the World Championships and most of the World Cups 2016, it was not allowed to set new records as the walls were not certified.

However, the most important reason for why IFSC should go for varied routes is that only few gyms in the world have IFSC speed walls. In other words, most climbers in the world need to travel hours by car or even by plane to find a speed wall with the right angle and the holds in the right place.

In the long run it is of course much more boring just to train on the same identical route. Furthermore, it will take much more time for a climber to tune in on the fixed speed climbing route. If the routes would vary, Ondra and the crew could probably challenge the best during the Olympics. If IFSC keep the same old identical route, the top climbers still will not have a chance.

If we cannot make the best climbers want to go for the Olympics and make the event a great show, chances are low that climbing will be a part of the Games also in 2024.
 
Big scale climbing industry at Railay  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge Picture- Put the left foot to the light!

Climbing at any of the three beginner crags at Railay is super hectic. Some instructors even have a laser pointer to coach their clients on routes that are way too hard. As can be seen in the picture from Phra'Nang, the instructor is trying to support the beginners, pulling them up. At the same time, they are mostly really nice so you can even borrow their top rope while their clients rest.

During the six months of high season, more than 100 people climb daily with an instructor at Railay and with 50 every day during low season, there are about 25 000 beginners trying it out annually. Most pay 1 000 baht, 300-350 out of which is paid to the instructors. This means that there are people making more than 30 000 baht a month during high season. For Thai standard this is quite good as they do not pay any taxes. The head instructor says that even so it is quite hard to find new workers as they normally need to work for free for 2-3 months before they can pass the test. Moreover, the hardest thing for the newcomers is actually to learn English well enough.
 
Eric Carlsson: Youtube sensation vlogger  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureEric Carlsson started with daily climbing videos a few months ago and now he has 18 000 followers on his Youtube channel with over 2.5 million views. The simple idea is to follow one boulderer doing a problem in his gym Klättercentret in Stockholm, where he works full time running the cafe. He also does training videos and spend about 40 hours a week filming and editing.

What is your climbing and filming background?
I tried climbing for the first time around 5-6 years ago, got really into it for 2 months, then I started traveling and ended up living in Australia. So after nearly 2 years away from climbing I got into it again and I haven't stopped since.

I had never done any filming/photo In my life prior to starting this, so I started completely from scratch, luckily there Is a lot of creative and kind people in the climbing world/gym that helped me every time I needed it!

How much time does it normally take to shoot and edit a video?
It varies, some days it can take 5h and some days as much as 10h but the average is around 6-7h everyday, so its a fair amount of time each day but its what I enjoy the most, so Im psyched!

What's your plan and ambition for these videos?
My plan Is to continue sharing these stories, to continue to build a platform were people can share there progression, motivation, failure and success, so we can all keep the psyche high in climbing. I have spent these first 6 months at Klättercentret Telefonplan and It has been great! but I'm planing to travel more, meet more people from around the world and share there stories, see were they climb outside, the gyms that they train In and see what the climbing world has to offer as a whole!
 
Uncharted lines with Paul Robinson  Facebook

Uncharted Lines from Uncharted Lines Vimeo channel.

Paul Robinson has been working on this film featuring Webb, Woods, Ceria, Sharma, Graham, Martin and others for 2 years.
Please tell us about the process.
Yeah, it has been quite the crazy process! The whole idea began a while back when I wanted to create a film all about the process of doing first ascents all over the world. I was lucky enough to have some amazing friends come along on the journey and be a part of the film. From failures in Siberia, to searching for rock in Zimbabwe, to watching Daniel Woods send one of the hardest boulders in the world, it has been an incredible 2 years.

 
Zlagboard Pro presentation  Facebook
 
Best Crash Pad 2017?  Facebook
 
Two 8B FA by Sharma, Lopez and Roca  Facebook
 
Michaela Kirsch and her Golden 8c+ ticket  Facebook
 
Rustam Gelmanov in La Sportiva Legends  Facebook
 
Crowdfunding for Austrian Paraclimbers  Facebook
Katharina Saurwein, one of the best female climbers in the world for the last ten years, has been training Austria Paraclimbers for a year in preparation for the World Championsihip in Innsbruck 2018. In order to increase their possibilities, she has started a Crowdfunding project for them.

"Climbing always gave me so much joy, I found a lot of new friends, it created a lot of new goals for me and I had something to look forward to. Also it helped me over hard times, for example when my mum died. While I was climbing was the only time I could forget or at least not think about it for some time. All the Paraclimbers had hard strokes of fate and I hope that climbing will help them forget about it and their handicap, even if it's just for minutes. That's why I'm training them and why I'm so motivated for it."
 
Two 8A (7C+) Boulders by Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 
Ice Climbing World Cup - Beijing  Facebook
 
Identifying dangerous bolts - contribute to rebolting!  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAfter the recent frightening report from Sardinia, we asked Emanuele Pellizzari, who has been selling bolts for 15 years, to explain some more what to look out for in order to be able to identify dangerous bolts and about other safety measures.

"Most of marine locations have been bolted with 304 (A2) stainless steel. Some areas are under rebolting either with 316 (A4) or other materials (Titanium/Titan Climbing or Duplex/ Fixe bolts products, or a treatment of 316/Raumer).

While a zinc-plated hanger becomes rusted quickly, and therefore the level of rust define its strength (more rust means weaker), a stainless anchor looks ok, but can hold barely body weight. Given the scale of the rebolting needed, to expect all routes to be safe, we talk about a timeline of a decade and a lot of money. In some areas, more money is needed than probably the return from tourism.

The general rule is that grey rock, often is less aggressive to anchors, since the rain, once in a while, washes the protections. Yellow rock (overhangs) is where most problems occur. I personally see no difference between glue ins and bolts in strength and resistance to corrosion, while some believes glue ins are more resistant. Some rocks are more aggressive than others.

If a climber is not able to remember the handful shapes of hangers or glue ins used in the word, it should restrain from climbing in marine locations since he can’t judge if the route has been bolted recently, rebolted, and/or which gear has been used. In other words, “stay away if you can’t tell”. Big majority of climbers can’t tell, but they can study, since bolts producers are very few.

If a climber does not take the care while climbing to check the protection, he should restrain from climbing in marine locations. In fact, all “new” gear has marked the kind of material they are made from. Said before, to investigate the shape of hangers or glue ins, it’s a matter of less than a dozen shapes. Some brands have the year of production stamped. So, if a climber checks, he can understand the kind of material and with a guess when if was bolted.

Most important of all: contribute, contribute, and contribute on rebolting. Open your valet to pay. If the climbing community as a whole, does not contribute, very likely we better stop climbing in marine location in many areas of the world.

A note of the materials used. 304 is lasting from 8 to 15 years in marine Mediterranean (warm) locations with some exceptions. 316 should last 30% more. How long it will last zinc plated is a guess, from years to very long. How long it will last the resin (glue) they use in titanium or duplex it’s a guess since no supplier has certified the resin for these materials and neither will warranty for longer than 3 years.

So, each route that has been bolted more than 10 years ago, should be checked before committing to it. My opinion is that HCR expansion bolts are the best long term choice. Better than glue ins made from titanium/duplex."


More UIAA official info.
 
Sharma and friends doing a bouldering roadtrip  Facebook
 


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