8A+ by Alex Puccio again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her 54th 8A+, Right Martini in Hueco Tanks. "The BIG move was hard to stick from the start. Long Boulder! Psyched to be getting fitter and stronger! :) I LOVE BIG moves!" (c) John Bishop

In 2014, Alex was runner-up in the world championship but both in June 2015 and 2016, she badly injured herself in World Cups and had to undergo knee and spinal surgeries. In a Climbing interview she said,

“Everyone thinks I heal abnormally fast, but the reality is I don’t give up during an injury," she said. "Some people get injured and sit around waiting to heal. I find ways to work around my injury so I can stay fit and come back sooner than expected.“



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Combined Sport Climbing in Youth Olympics 2018  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIFSC comes with the great news that Sport Climbing has been added to the Youth Olympic Games (YOG) in Buenos Aires, which will begin on October 1, 2018.

"IOC meetings are taking place this week in Lausanne, Switzerland, and yesterday the IOC Executive Board officially agreed to add three sports to the YOG Buenos Aires 2018 Sports Programme: Dance Sport, Karate and Sport Climbing. These sports are in addition to the 28 sports currently on the programme for the third summer of YOG. The Sport Climbing event will be a combined event of the three disciplines (Bouldering, Lead, Speed) for both males and females."

IFSC is working with the Combined format together with the federations and they have also asked 8a to send our suggestions. The format will be presented the next spring. In practice, it is just to start training Speed climbing as most probably at least part of the selection will begin during the Youth World Championships in Austria starting 30/8 in 2017.

Noteworthy is also that there will be a record number of European Youth Cups in 2017, out of which nine will take place before the Youth Worlds but there is just one Speed event on 27/8.



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Greenspit 8b (+) trad by Fred Moix (40)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFred Moix, one of the leading climbing photographers of the last 12 years, has done the iconic Greenspit 8b (+) in Valle dell'Orco, Italy. Amazingly, it was his second trad ascent ever! Full story on his Instagram. (c) Eric Blanc

" It's kind of a love story for me with this route as I was belaying my close friend Didier Berthod in 2003 during the first historical pinkpoint ascent of Europa's hardest crack, and was lucky enough to shoot that special picture which went published worldwide just after. This route kind of launched Didier's career as a climber and totally rocketed my photographer's one on the side of my main passion as an osteopath."



 
 
One more 8C FA barefoot by Charles Albert  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done one more 8C FA, La révolutionnaire in Fontainebleau. The 20-year-old stopped using shoes about four years ago. (c) Neil Hart

"I'm the only one who tried it. It took me some 20 sessions during 1,5 year. There is like 8 moves and the climbing is pretty basic just compression with bad holds in a roof up to a big swing I think it's harder with shoes. It's just a weird pocket for the right foot and I don't think the shoes fits there.

In February, he did a direct version of Le pied à coulisse 8C (+) which is said to be impossible with shoes. Even so, Charles suggested 8B+ for his version. In practice, we do not know what grade his last FA gets for the guys using shoes but it could actually be 8C+ or even harder. We will follow up with an article discussing the potential need to adjust some grades because the lines are more easily done barefoot.



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8B by Melissa Le Neve in Font  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelissa Le Neve reports on Instagram that she has done La cicatrice de l'ohm 8B in Fontainebleau. This could be the first female who has done an 8B in the Forest.

In the Boulder World Cup Melissa was #3 but she has said that she will stop competing. With a rope, she has done three 8c+'s.

 
 
Jorg Verhoeven - World Class multi discipline challenger  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven won the World Cup in 2008 and this year he has been on the podium in a Boulder WC (photo: (c) Heiko Wilhelm). He has also done the first repeat of the 25-pitch-long Dihedral 8b+ in Yosemite (photo: (c) Jorg Verhoeven).

Please explain how your climbing interest has shifted over years and why it has been like this?
I've always been drawn to many different types of climbing, already during the first years of doing world cups I found myself in the mountains or doing multipitches. Throughout the years I slowly moved from training - sportclimbing/bouldering - competitions to more adventurous stuff like alpine ridges, multipitch climbing in the Alps and abroad, trad climbing etc.

What are your plans for 2017 and what about the Olympics?
2017 will see some more adventures like trad climbing in England, multipitch routes in Morocco and maybe even a short Yosemite trip. I will probably do some bouldering comps, but not more than 5 or so. The Olympics is quite a while ahead of us and frankly I will be too old to join the Games. By then I most likely will have ended my competetion career (about time after almost 20 years) and I will probably be hanging on an arctic bigwall or something...

How do you think the scene will change it 10 years and where do you see yourself in 2026?
We'll probably see a bigger drift between the competitive and the outdoor scene. To be cutting edge in one discipline you will need to specialize. Of course there'll always be climbers that do not specialize but they won't be pushing the limits of the sport. Already now there's not really a climber that can push the limits in more than 1-2 disciplines. Adam is amongst the best (not the same as pushing limits) at several disciplines, but only if he specializes for a certain period.

I think the main point to understand is that most of the times, non-specializing athletes are not looking to be 'the best' at something. I can only speak for myself, but I've always aimed for personal goals, that have little to do with the actual level and its maximum. For example I've set myself 9b as a goal, although 9c would be pushing limits.

 
 
8B by Karoline Sinnhuber again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, #5 in a Boulder WC this spring, has done her thrid 8B, Heart shaped box sit in Weststeiermark. ""It is a power-endurance problem in a roof which suits me pretty well with some tricky heel- and toehook features. (c) Chris Rauch gave me the perfect beta :-)"

What about your injury, winter plans and the Olympics?
Before the World Championships in Paris I got an inflammation in my biceps tendon. Had to make a break then and after some weeks I started to do some easy lead climbing again. The tendon is still not fully healed, but thank god it's getting better :-)

After Christmas I'll spend nearly 2 weeks in Ticino, afterwards the gym is calling again for the preparation for the World cup season 2017. About the Olympics: I think the selected format is not perfect. For me it's unintelligible why a Boulderer should compete in Lead and Speed too.

 
 
How to qualify for Tokyo 2020 in three steps  Facebook
 

As the Combined Olympic event will take place over three days, it would be best to select who will participate in Tokyo based on qualifications run in the same format. On the other hand it is practically impossible to make World Cup organizers set up such 3-days events. The World and Continental Championships would be as close as you could come but even so, such championship with several hundreds of athletes doing qualifications, semi and final will not be the same as the Olympics with just 20+20 participants.

At the same time, it would be important for both competitors and IFSC to organize a pre-Olympic rehearsal event that also could make the final selection for the 20+20 that will compete in Tokyo. Such event could run early in 2020 in Tokyo as the Combined World Championship where only 50 + 50 selected can compete. Possibly the 6 + 6 best that have not qualified to the Olympics in 2019 yet, could be selected from the pre-Olympic event.

During 2019, 8 + 8 can qualify through the Continental Championship with extra spots for Europe and Asia. The remaining 6 + 6 could qualify through the Combined ranking that already IFSC are running.

The selection for the 50 + 50 to the pre-Olympic Combined World Championships in early 2020, could be based on the 8 + 8 qualified from the Continental Championships and the rest from the Combined World Cup 2019. Another possible qualification way could be that the three World Champions from 2018 are guaranteed a spot.

 
 
New editors for France and Italy and more wanted  Facebook
 

Stefano Bertone is our new editor-in-chief translating news for Italy and France where also Andrea Schwartz helps out. Previously we have local editors for Spain, Poland, Turkey and we are always looking for more guys that could help out. A country specific editor can also post local news such as competition invitations etc.

 
 
The 8a Olympic format in three steps  (11) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMany federations, coaches and top climbers have forwarded different Combined Olympic format suggestions to IFSC, or are about to do it. Some suggestions are just impossible as IFSC has made some promises to IOC;

One set of medals, no new disciplines, the best climbers must take part, 20 + 20 climbers, Lead/Boulder/Speed, easy to understand, podium ranked in the final.

Here is an easy format schedule to be carried out over three days using the existing IFSC formats. How to qualify in three steps will be presented later.

Day 1. Qualification Lead + Qualification Speed
Day 2. Qualification Boulder: Calculate Combined Top-8 ranking
Day 2. Final Boulder
Day 3. Final Speed + Final Lead: Calculate Combined Top-4 ranking
Day 3. Duel Semi & Final on a 10 meter long 8a route.

 
 
9a FA by Jakob Schubert  Facebook
 

 
 
No pressure, just enjoyment - Domen's winning recipe  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic, #2 in the 8a ranking game, has had a slow but steady progress in World Cup rankings, just as he wanted. Suddenly in 2016, the Slovenian 22-year-old won three out of the first four events. (c) Stanko Gruden (Interview with his fiancee Janja Garnbret is coming up).

How can you explain the great development in 2016?
I seriously have no idea how that happened. I had a lot of trouble with the pain in my lower back at the start of the year and had to avoid certain moves as it was to painful. I also decided to skip bouldering because of it. I was rarely happy with my training, as it was always a half of what I wanted to do. With special exercises and treatments with physio therapist, I was able to recover in time, but I was still seriously doubting my shape before the season kicked off. Somehow I was able to relax and didn't even care about my goals anymore.

I came to Chamonix without any expectations, just super thrilled that competitions finally started. I knew that I'll have to fight and risk it all, to make a good result. It was just the opposite situation compared to last year, when I was feeling in the best shape of my life and full of expectations, taking podiums for granted. I then finished 9th on the first two comps and this year I won 3 out of 4. So I guess that played the biggest role, being free of self-made pressure and just enjoy the competition scene no matter what happens. After all this success I couldn't control my expectations anymore and deep down I wanted nothing less than a podium in Paris. Finishing 4th again after Gijon two years ago was a heartbreaker. I admit I lost some motivation and at the same time I didn't want to mess up the overall. The last two comps were mentally the hardest for me. Defending is way harder, than attacking. Luckily, I managed to keep it together to the very end and pulled off something I would call crazy dreams just two years ago.

What was the feeling and nervousness about starting the final in front of your home crowd?
I have to admit that this was my mentally hardest competition ever. The hardest part was definitely just before semis, where I had to perform perfect to make it to finals. Luckly, I didn't know I had to actually top the route. It got a lot easier, when I knew I got in the finals, but still, it wasn't over yet. When I watched the replay of the stream commentator said, I surely knew I already won the overall before my final climb, but I didn't. I heard Jakob finished fast, but so did all before him. I only saw that Romain wasn't sitting in one of the leader chairs. Jakob was still to sit down on some of them. So it was a nerve wrecking battle to the very end. The route was tough, but when I slipped off in the middle of the route, still with lots of gas in the tank, I thought I surely failed. I got to know that it was enough for second place and that I got the overall from Urban only after I tied off the rope. I can't describe the feeling of the relief and happiness afterwards.

What is the next plan, 2017 aim and what about the Olympics?
I want to continue with my slow and steady progress and achieve what I still haven't... I'm definitely giving most of my focus on bouldering next season and try myself there to. I would definitely like to find some time for outdoors and finish the unfinished business.

The Olympics are still far and we still don't know how they're going to be. The format and how to qualify is still not known. I would definitely like to compete there one day, but only if climbing doesn't change drastically in the process of becoming an Olympic sport. I would seriously have a hard time to decide whether to go or not, if I had to start training speed as we know it today.

 
 
Adam Ondra proudly sums up Yosemite and gives credit  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, who now has 51 000+ followers on his Instagram proudly sums up his six weeks in Yosemite. (c) Pavel Blazek

"Yosemite climbing is hard. Like really hard. The Free Nose is even harder. @_linacolina_ 's (Lynn Hill) achievement is one the most radical achievements in the climbing history, in my opinion, still not fully appreciated. Hats off.

The Dawn Wall is the hardest. I am proud to have done it. Possibly my proudest achievement im climbing. Nevertheless, the effort I had to make is incomparable to what @tommycaldwell and @kjorgeson had to go through, not knowing where to climb and if it is climbable. I think they can be way prouder than me for what they did.

El Cap is bad ass. That is the fact. No choss."

 
 
beta.8a.nu - responsive mobile platform  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOur new web developer Tieme has added some more nice features to our new responsive mobile platform beta.8a.nu. It is still in beta but especially browsing on your phone or tablet is a lot easier than on the current site.

1. New Crag and Ticklist search optimised for mobile.
2. Search "Nearby Crags" based on your location and get driving instructions.
3. Separated News and Video pages.
4. Share to FB and Twitter etc.

Read more and subscribe for updates to our Beta newsletter here. Currently you cannot add ascents, pictures or anything to your scorecard. This is our next priority and will be updated next year. Please feel free to post any feedback!

 
 
8a onsight by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who previously has done an 8c, has ticked off three 8b's and onsighted his first 8a last week, Pollastre de granja in Margalef.

"It was very scary to clip the last bolt, I did not want to fall. The hardest part is on the first part. It is overhang climbing on small pockets but you can see the way to climb it. After the crux it is nice, vertical climbing that you cant see from the ground. It is my 5th try of trying to onsight an 8a."

His mother, Ann, explains that Illya started climbing about five years ago but he has never had any trainers beside his parents, who climb in the 6th grade. Most of the times, Illya climbs outdoor as his parents normally work with IT and travel abroad. In 2014, he won Arco Rock Junior being 9 years old, and did his first 8a+.

8a encourage youngsters to focus mainly on onsights and a broad grade tick list pyramid. We will normally not publish ascents for kids mainly projecting hard redpoints.

 
 
Ashima Shiraishi (15) one of the best rock climbers in the world  (47) Facebook
 

 
 
Stay auto-updated on Friends' and Crags ascents  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJust like on Facebook, you can select from which Friends and Crags you will get notifications when an ascent has been added. Just go to your "Friends'" scorecard, click the button at the top and you will automatically see which climbs have been recorded lately. You can do the same thing for Crags and there you can also select which grades you want to follow.

The picture shows where to click on "Add to My Friends" in Adam Ondra's scorecard to always stay updated on his latest ascents. Just his scorecard has been visited almost 1 million times. Adam's new Instagram has already 51 000 followers.

 
 
Find the best winter climbing destinations  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe picture shows in which months the ascents in Leonidio have been recorded in the 8a data base. In Europe only Geyik Bayiri and El Chorro of the popular crags have a similar concentration in the winter season as Leonidio. Other great winter destinations in Europe are San Vito lo Capo on Sicily, Osp/Misja Pec, Arico on Tenerife, Fenda near Lisbon, Mallorca and crags around Malaga, Valencia and Barcelona.

 
 
Angy Eiter - The combined format does not make sense  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngela Eiter, the best female lead competition climber in the history who has won four world championships, is equally negative towards the suggested Olympic format as Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Pic from Paris 2012, (c) Red Bull/S. Gruden

"Speaking for myself, I think this Olympic format develops a new direction of competition climbing, where the original philosophy of climbing moves into the background. Nevertheless, it is quite likely that the younger generation adapts better to the new format and probably benefit from training all disciplines and the social settings. Anyway a difficult topic!"

So would you have gone for it during your career?
No, I wouldn't have gone for it. For me this format doesn't make sense.

IFSC has forwarded some suggestions for the combined format which have been questioned by almost all federations. Some of them have gone together informally to suggest a new combined format. The IFSC decision will be made next spring. In fact, there are more top athletes that are equally negative but they have said they want to wait with their comments until the competition season is over.

 
 
Kranj summary  Facebook
 

 
 
8b onsight again by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has onsighted her third 8b, Dragon in Gole del melfa. The 15-year-old is actually #11 in the 8a onsight ranking game. (c) Sofia Mariano

"Dragon is divided in two halves. The first part is an hard boulder followed by a pretty good rest and a very beautiful and technical groove on small holds. When I did the first boulder I understood that the hardest part was done. I had only to keep calm until the chain. When I exit from the groove and I hold the last good holds I felt so excited!!

I train 5 times per week. 3 times in my bouldergym and in the weekend I go outdoor. In 2017 I would like to try some hard routes (I don't know where yet) and naturally continue competing. Naturally I am very happy that climbing got a place in the olympic games. Our sport is fantastic and it is fair that now it is an Olympic sport. I admit that I am not very happy about the format."

 
 
Domen and Janja World Cup winners 2016  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Janja Garnbret SLO 530 - Domen Skofic SLO 472
2. Anak Verhoeven BEL 495 - Jakob Schubert AUT 402
3. Jain Kim KOR 395 - Romain Desgranges FRA 380
4. Magdalena Röck AUT 345 - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 356
5. Mina Markovic SLO 306 - Gauthier Supper FRA 281
Complete results

Slovenia, with just 2 million inhabitants, did get an impressive double through youngsters Janja Garnbret and Domen Skofic. The maximum points is 600 so in reality they were both quite superior. Janja's worst counted result was #3 and Domen would have won only counting five of the best seven results. (c) Manca Čujež

Anak has been #4 the last two years and she has made great progress in 2016 always being close to Janja's performance. Jakob Schubert has been Top-4 in the World Cup all years since 2009. In the overall point statistics, he is the second best Lead climber in the world after Ramonet.

 
 
8C FA by Toshi Takeuchi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToshi Takeuchi, #3 in the ranking game, has made the FA of Babylon 8C in Toyota and there is a video coming up. (c) Horinori Baba

"Finally managed to do Longstanding project in Toyota. One of the best and hardest things I've ever done. I first touched this project 2 years ago. Since then, I tried this project a lot but never had chance to link all the moves. In my opinion, 11 moves hard V14 +12moves V11. Total 23moves. On to the next project:)"

 
 
WC Kranj Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Halenke & Verhoeven win in Kranj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Verhoeven won her second WC in 2016 in great style finishing just a couple of moves before the top of a great route. Akiyo Noguchi, #4 in the Boulder WC, was the runner up six moves behind Anak in just her second appearance in Lead this year. Janja Garnbret, the 17-year-old world champion who had already secured the overall title, was third. More pictures and full story by Eddie Fowke.

As for the men, Sebastian Halenke won his first event and saved the route setters by climbing two thirds of the route. He said that it was the hardest competition route he had ever climbed. Both in qualifications and semis there was a record number of tops which probably made the route setters increase the difficulty in the final. Unfortunately, and probably because of the stressful atmosphere created by 5 000 spectators, almost all competitors feel on the same move.

However, as Domen Skofic was second and won overall together with his girlfriend Janja Garnbret, the home crowd seemed very pleased anyhow.

1. Sebastian Halenke GER 37 - Anak Verhoeven BEL 47
2. Domen Skofic SLO 23 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 41
3. Jakob Schubert AUT 20 - Janja Garnbret SLO 40+
Complete results

 
 
Server provider problems  (4) Facebook
 

We are extremely sorry for the downtime which was caused due to our server provider's capacity problems which might have occurred because of the record numbers of visitors last week. Once again, we would like to apologize and promise that we will make sure it will not happen again.

 
 
8c+ by Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora has made the FA of Tomorrowland extension 8c+ in Collepardo after eight tries. " It is one of the most beautiful route I have ever tried, congrats to Intorre Domenico who bolted this super line leaving it completely natural." (c) Franco Loadi

This spring the 15-year-old did her first 9a and she is #1 in the 8a ranking game. When it comes to onsights, she is actually quite superior with four 8a+'s and two 8b's.

 
 
Jongwon Chon wins Legends with 5 straight tops  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJongwon Chon, the World Cup 2015 winner, has made an amazing show in the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm by doing all five problems in his first try. The format was redpoint and the competitors had worked the problems on Thursday. In the final they had three tries and with many tops, Jongwon had actually secured his victory in just 1 hour. It is interesting that actually only the winner uses La Sportiva. Video.

1. Jongwon Chon KOR 5t5 5b5
2. Kokoro Fujii JPN 5t7 5b6
3. Alex Megos GER 4t4 4b4

 
 
La Sportiva Legends preparation for streaming at 20 on Saturday  Facebook
 



Black Friday Weekend at EpicTV Shop! Amazing deals on a large range of apparel and gear at their Outlet store, available between 25 and 28th of November.

 
 
La Rubia 8c+ by Muriel Sarkany (42)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMuriel Sarkany, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has done the 50 meter long endurance monster, La Rubia 8c+ in Villanueva del Rosario. Three years ago, the 153 cm tall did her first 9a Punt'X being 39 years old. Between 1997 and 2004, Muriel won the Overall WC 5 times and the remaining 3 years she was the runner-up! (c) Julie Sprooten

- I tried the project two weeks in April until it became completely wet and then I came back last week. For the next month, I would like to use my good shape to try others routes but I have to see with the forecast! Here these last days, it rained a lot and been very cold, 7 degrees. After around 35-40 min of climbing, my feet were like ice and I wasn't feeling them anymore. It was really mental.

 
Bartek Sroka

Die zwei Muskeltiere 8a
, Frankenjura,
 
Rupprich pati

secret spot, near imst
 
Leszek Iwan

Kraniec Świata 7b, Żerk
owice
 
Stefan Bednar

Sofa Surfer 8a+, Magic
wood
 
Dominik Jeschke

Kunstwerk 8b, Altmühlta
l
 
Falco Filotto

Sky 8b, Rocklands
 
Josan Ardila

Julia, 7b San Martín de
Valdeiglesias
 
Falco Filotto

The Vice 8b, Rocklands
 
Stefan Bednar

Sofa Surfer 8a+, Magic
wood
 
Margo Hayes

Smith Rock, Oregon
 
Carlos García Sierra

Porreros y melenudos 8A
/ Teverga
 
Stasa Gejo

Memento 8b+, Kotečnik (
Slovenia) Photo taken
in March, but the route
got crushed today :)
 
Maggie Odette

The "football move" on
A Wyoming Sheep Shagger
(8b), Maple Canyon, Ut
ah.
 
Chuck Odette

Ego deflation on Ego Bo
ost (8b)
 
Jorge diaz-rullo

Dándole duro a "Vafalun
go", Zarzalejo.
 
David Duez

Megatron, v8 at HP 40
 
Chuck Odette

maggie sky dancing her
way up don't mess with
texas
 
Jonathan Guadalcázar

Hipertension 7c+, Crevi
llent
 
Mani Hubär

Äolsharfen 8c, Thalhofe
rgrat
 
Vladimír Calda

Chopman 8A, Korzár, New
Project
 
Andreas Hanisch

Ekel 7c+, Frankenjura
 
Artem Galushko

The Story of Two Worlds
8C
 
Jonathan Guadalcázar

El lado oscuro 8a+, Cue
va tapada (ELche)
 
James Simmons

Fantasy Island, put up
by JC Hunter, with few
repeats. Made good gain
s until sustaining a se
ason ending pulley inju
ry. Still on the projec
t list. Bouldery and Be
UTAHful.
 
Ivan Kuvacic

Croatian Chilam Balam
 
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Sven Otto - Crocodile 6a, Fontainebleau
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Barefoot ascents might change some hard core gradings  (2) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin dropped one shoe and repeated a 9a and calling it an 8c+. It is somehow logical that if a climb is easier without shoes, the grade should go down.

When Charles Albert, who has been climbing barefoot for the last years, repeated an 8C (+) in Font he said it was 8B+ for him, even though he did a much more difficult direct line (9A or harder with shoes). Now the 20-year-old has done an 8C FA barefoot in Font which he thinks is harder with shoes.

Once this barefoot trend grows bigger, we might see some downgradings. On the other hand, as the grades are supposed to reflect the difficulty, Charles's latest 8C FA might be considered an 8C+ or even 9A in the future.

Charles has developed an amazing skill pulling with his big toes for four years, contrary to the standing stability strength all climbers with shoes train. Even if the best boulderer tried the 8C FA shoeless, it could take years before they would develop the big toe pulling strength needed. In other words, the best boulderers in the world might consider the 8C FA and the direct 8B+ mentioned above equally hard to repeat as Hukkataival's recent 9A.

Furthermore, in the future the most difficult route and boulders to repeat might be climbs where you actually need to take the shoes off and put them back on while climbing, as you approach different cruxes.
 
Job opportunity in the climbing sector: Vertical Life  Facebook
Are you a climber and love to combine your passion and work? Vertical Life is hiring experts in software development and communication specialists. The young startup company is located in South Tyrol / Dolomites area – a gorgeous place for climbing and skiing. Check out the job profile and apply!
 
Leo Houlding on 1 200 m Mirror Wall in Greenland  Facebook
 
Sport climber of 2016 - Draft  (3) Facebook
Here is the draft of Climbers of 2016 List. Please comment and give opinions. As in previous years, the list is based on sport climbing with more credit for those doing FAs and all climbing disciplines.

1. Adam Ondra CZE
2. Janja Garnbret SLO
3. Ashima Shiraishi USA
4. Domen Skofic SLO
5. Alex Megos GER
6. Anak Verhoeven BEL
7. Tomoa Narasaki
8. Jakob Schubert
9. Jernej Kruder
10. Sean McColl, Stefano Ghisolfi, Nalle Hukkataival, Alex Puccio, Megan Mascarenas, Melissa Le Neve, James Webb, Alexey Rubtsov, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Laura Rogara, Jonathan Siegrist, Ryuichi Murai, Paul Robinson, Shauna Coxsey, Seb Bouin, Chris Sharma, Karoline Sinnhuber, Isabelle Faus, Jain Kim, Romain Desgranges, Dani Andrada, Margo Hayes, Edu Marin, Sebastian Halenke, Jessica Pilz, Kokoro Fujii, Petra Klingler, Piotr Schab, Jan Hojer, David Firnenburg, Christof Rauch, Gabri Moroni, Katharina Saurwein, Martin Stranik, Miho Nonaka, Akiyo Noguchi, Gauthier Supper, Daniel Fuertes, Mathieu Bouyoud, Toshi Takeuchi, Michaela Kiersch, Carlo Traversi, Angela Eiter
 
Roadtrip in Peloponnese  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureEva Eskilsson from Mountain Spirit Guides has spent some weeks in Peloponnese, Greece and here is her report and recommendations.

"Probably my favorite place on Peloponnese was Kiparissi, because of the amazingly pretty setting. However the most spectacular climbing there (on Babala wall) is reserved for strong climbers (routes from 7c and up). Nedousa and Lagada was also amazing for sport climbing, and in a more mountainous atmosphere, completely different to the dry and warm Mediterranean cost (even though it’s just 30min drive from the sea). There are several big sectors and much more climbing then I expected (good from 5b to 8b), and I would like to spend a lot more time in each of these places.

Nedousa is a crisp river gorge with fresh water, forest, and beautiful camping spots, but also not far to drive to from Kalamata (as a hotel can be nice this time of the year). Lagada is more open and even higher in altitude, closest larger town is Sparta, and it is popular spot for Greek climbers. Still we didn’t meet any other climbers and the routes remain unpolished and almost completely free from chalk (at least in November).

In Varasova we did one of the long routes to the summit of Varasova (the mountain, 900m) which was quite an adventure. The face is unfortunately interrupted by 300m of scrambling on a ledge, but still offers 600m of climbing and a great ambiance above the sea."


Aris from Kalymnos will publish a new Best of Greece topo early in 2017.
 
The easy way to find the best climbs - Ticklist  Facebook
There are now over 4.1 million star-rated ascents in the 8a database that could help you to find the best routes and boulders in the world. There are four different ways to find and use the Ticklists.

1. You can search crags from the top right bar on the website. Later you can select grades and print your ticklists out.

2. You can go to our responsive mobile site beta.8a.nu, which will direct you to the nearest crags or you can search for Ticklists for specific crags.

3. You can download Ticklists with our 8a.nu App.
 
Training For Climbing - EP 2 with Eric Hörst  Facebook
 
Lifestyle climbing versus performance training  (22) Facebook
One of the biggest changes in the climbing community in the last years is the increased focus on performance training. Adam Ondra started it some years ago and now even Chris Sharma follows the trend. You can read about training and the shortcuts to achieving higher level everywhere. Letting mobile clock structure how much time to climb and rest is the new thing sometimes even for the kids.

With this trend for getting stronger it is important to state that Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma did get their best based just on the Lifestyle climbing approach. Now they are successfully adding some Performance Training into their climbing lifestyle.

If you instead start with the performance training approach, you may risk injuries and motivation problems when your performance level stops increasing. The easiest way to stay away from these problems is just to start climbing for several years like Ondra and Sharma did and then, when you reach a plateau, you can go for some performance training short cuts. Alternatively, you can continue just "lifestyling" like Graham, Woods and Hukkataival and still continue to progress.
 
Three ways to add routes  (1) Facebook
There are 4.1 million routes in the 8a database and all of them have been added using one of the following options.

1. Click "Add" up to the left and write free text including all details.
2. Click "Add via mobile" with less details.
3. In the search column to the right, start writing the crag name and find your route in the Ticklist.

If you have done a popular climb at a popular crag, the fastest way is the option three. If you put up something new or climb unpopular climbs, then the option 1 is the fastest.

Later there will also be an option to add routes using option 3 in the mobile responsive site.
 
1 018 pull ups in 1 hour by Jan Kares  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureJan Kares, #17 in 1 Lead WC 1998, is a pull-up and bolting fanatic. Yesterday, he set two new world records by doing 555 pull-ups in 30 minutes first and then 1 018 during 1 hour.

His next plan is to go to Sardinia and continue his bolting mission with 600 bolts. Since 2008, the 43-year-old has spent some 150 days bolting, paying for everything by himself. His dream is that this area, close to Cala Gonone, will be one of the best and most famous climbing areas in Europe.
 
8a in more languages - more editors are welcome  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureCurrently, the 8a global news are translated into Spanish, French, Swedish and Polish by local contributors that can also publish country specific news. We are looking for more translators and local editors. Just send an email to jens@8a.nu.

The biggest country specific pages are USA, Germany, Spain, Italy, Austria, France, Switzerland and Sweden. These countries make between 800 and 3 000 sessions a day.
 
Lead climbers who stick out  (6) Facebook
Here are some of the Lead competition climbers that stick out in the history. Five out of ten are still active top climbers. Who do you think is missing that should be mentioned in the history books of Lead competition climbing as of 2016?

Ramon Julian Puigblanque: Competing for 16 straight successful years and when it comes to overall points he has almost twice as many as the runner-up Jakob Schubert. The 159 cm tall has won the world championships twice.
Jakob Schubert: Ten successful years on the circuit and in 2011 he started by winning seven straight WCs. World Champion once.
Alex Chabot: During only seven years he was on the podium 30 times winning 21 times!
Adam Ondra: He won overall being just 16 years old and when it comes to male average results, he is #2 after Chabot. World Champion three times.
Legrand: Totally dominated the circuit in the 90-ies and won in total 17 World Cups. World Champion three times.

Angela Eiter: She won 25 events in just eleven years and in total she was on the podium 43 times. She has won the World Championship four times.
Muriel Sarkany: She is #1 when it comes to total points and she has been on the podium 45 times during 19 seasons, which is the most for any lead climber. World Champion once and runner-up four times.
Jain Kim: She has won 22 WCs, which is second after Eiter. World Champion once.
Robin Erbesfield: Dominated the sport during the ealy 90-ies with 14 World Cup victories. World Champion once.
Mina Markovic: Second most Lead career points after Sarkany during 13 seasons.
Liv Sansoz: Over 32 events, her worst result was #9. World Champion twice.
Susi Good: Out of 17 World Cup starts, her worst results was #4. World Champion twice.
 
Great Dawn Wall interview with Adam Ondra  Facebook
Rock & Ice presents a nice and long Dawn Wall interview with Adam Ondra including the new angle. What do you wish you had known before?

"I brought so many different shoes, but in the end only Katana laces work for me. And "comfortable sized" shoes just do not work on DW, not even on relatively easy pitches. Tight shoes only.
I would have started using Antihydral earlier.
I would know that climbing Dawn Wall is so condition dependent. Part of the reason why the pitches felt so hard in the first weeks was because it was so hot. Some days it is better not to even bother going up.
I would have brought more comfortable sleeping mattress.
More toilet paper for the wall, book on the portaledge, bring much MORE chalk...
And I would have trained my legs, especially calfs. You are standing for HOURS on tiny feet, and my weak legs of sport climber simply got shaky and tired."
 
A 9a goes to 8c+ barefoot  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Seb Bouin has made the first repeat of Enzo Oddo's Salidad de Sol in Cantobre giving it a personal grade of 8c+.

"Funny trick : for the send, Seb Bouin has left one climbing shoe for doing the crux barefoot for being able to grip a hole with the big toe, finishing the route with a shoe less. Charles Albert attracts imitators!"

This could possibly create a new trend. Where you can stick in your big toe in a two finger pocket and pull with the toe it might be an easier way compared to just standing on some millimeters on the outside of the little pocket. Charles Albert has already showed this in Bouldering.

Last year 8a said that in the future there might be a market for shoes where the big toe is actually separated from the other four toes. Alternatively, climbers could start with a shoe which they can easily take off, doing the crux barefoot, and later put it on again. This could actually mean that some routes could be downgraded! That might be the case for routes with drilled two finger pockets!

The picture shows Marius Morstad's design from some 25 years ago which he sent to some shoe producers.
 
Angela Eiter is back in shape after her injuries  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAngela Eiter, the best female Lead competition climber in the history, reports that she is back after her injuries. During the last months she has done two 8A Boulders in Silvretta, British Airways and Shining. With rope, she has just done three 8b+'s in Jaen and flashed Lagunas mentales, 8a+ (b).

"This year I have struggled with an inflammation on the tendon of my ringfinger, which almost recovered. Moreover, I ripped a tendon on my thigh, but regular therapy help me recover. I am sure that recovery periods are essential when you focus on hard climbs and maybe more when you are getting older. Climbing on high level bears the risk for injuries. Therefore I need a sensitive body feeling and have to listen deeply to the signals of my body.
This method payed off!"
 


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