Chris Sharma transforms into a climbing machine through PUC-training  (1) Facebook
 



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Chipping of an old 8b in La Balme  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic climbing reports that Genesis, a very sandbagged 8b in La Balme, with just three ascents in ten years, has been chipped this summer, which added six newly drilled holds. It was Mathieu Bouyoud who found that it was chipped and then he forwarded his critical thoughts.

Some 25 years ago, it was quite popular to chip routes in France. A good example are most of the hard core routes in Gorges du Loup, which have drilled holds. 8a has been active trying to stop chipping and you can even mark chipped routes in the scorecard. Hopefully, FAs do not want to be on that list and actually Adam Ondra has been active reporting chipped routes. Another way of stopping chipping could be for topo authors to mark them them as chipped, just next to the FA name. 8a also try to avoid reporting chipped ascents.

It should be emphasised that chipping an old and climbable route is probably as low as you can reach in the terms of climbing ethics.



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Add News & Videos to the Global page  Facebook
 

Now all 62 000 8a members can add News including Pictures and Videos to the Global Page.

Just go to your Profile Page, click Add News/Videos on the top and start editing. For Videos, we need the embed code and the file should be 370 pixels wide. Later, the News and Videos will be moderated before publishing.



 
 
First 8C by Matt Fultz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHaving done seven 8B+'s, out of which four were FAs,Matt Fultz has done his first 8C, The Wheel of Wolvo in Mt Evans. "Wow, such an amazing boulder! Sent in 5 days over the course of a week. Definitely my style and so much fun to work on! New beta may make it easier, but we will see what other repeaters think."

Interestingly, the 25-year-old has had six years of continuous progress and he is currently #8 in the 8a ranking game.



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8A by Angie Scarth-Johnson (12)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngelina Scarth-Johnson, who did her first 8c route when she was 9 years old, has done two 7C+ Boulders and Panoptikum 8A. "The Cruxs is trying to stay off the ground."

 
 
Speed and Lead Final highlights from Arco  Facebook
 

The video starts with the amazing Speed final where 166 cm Marcin Dzienski beats 190 cm tall Danyil Boldyrev with 5 split seconds. Check those feet!

 
 
9a/+ FA by Seb Bouin in Verdon  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin has done the FA of L'homme demain 9a/+ in Verdon, meaning that he has done 27 routes graded 9a to 9b.

"The route was bolted by Antonin Rhodes. It's the hardest route of the crag, which now hosts four 9th-grade challenges. The route is 50 meters long, a stamina monster that Seb describes as an 8c+ followed by an 8c in the steepest part of the wall." Photo : Jan Novak Photography

 
 
8b+ and 8c by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (11)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi arrived to Podzamcze some two weeks ago with a personal best of 8b. There he first did an 8b+ and yesterday he stepped up by doing Pijane trójkąty 8c.

- I found a best place for me to climb. Almost every crag, rock and route are mostly vertical, with small holds and balancy moves,
that's my favorite style of climbing. But even when the rock is like my style it is still very hard to send this line. It is long, pumpy and has three cruxes all over the line, so I did maximum two tries a day. At first two days I did only one try though.

His mother, Ann, explains that Illya started climbing some four years ago but he has never had any trainers beside his parents, who climb in the 6th grade. Most of the times, Illya climbs outdoor as his parents normally work with IT and travel abroad. In 2014, he won Arco Rock Junior being 9 years old, when he also did his first 8a+.

 
 
Ondra and Saurwein win Arco KO Boulder  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Adam Ondra and Katharina Saurwein won the Arco KO Boulder contest. Actually, Katha had the best result on all four problems meanwhile Adam only won on the final Boulder. Runner-ups were Jan Hojer and Giorgia Tesio followed by Jeremy Bonder and Stasa Gejo. (c) Giulio Malfer

 
 
Dreamcatcher 9a in one day by Alex Megos  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos continues his rampage in Canada and does Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher 9a in just one day, video, and he comments on Facebook.

"This was the only route I knew when I came to Canada! And today I grabbed the 4th ascent of it in one day! "Deamcatcher" 5.14d (9a)!!! Super stoked to have climbed this world class route! One of the best of all time!" (c) Ken Etzel

 
 
Desgranges & Verhoeven winners in the perfect show in Arco  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Verhoeven and Romain Desgranges were the only two who topped out the semifinal and so they started last in the final, they really pleased the crowd. Anak topped out her fourth straight route in Arco and Romain tied Jakob Schubert's result, winning after the countback.

The previous superior leaders overall, Janja Garnbret and Domen Skofic were #3 and #4 meaning that the leader board was tightened up. Adam Ondra did his first WC in 2016 and he said he needed to adopt to plastic again. In three weeks, the World Championship in Paris starts. (c) More great pics from Eddie Fowke.

1. Romain Desgranges 44+ : Anak Verhoeven Top
2. Jakob Schubert 44 + : Jain Kim 49+
3. Dimitrii Fakiryanov 42 : Janja Garnbret 29+
4. Domen Skofic 39+ : Methilde Becerra 29
5. Adam Ondra 39+ : Mina Markovic 27
Complete results

 
 
16 double tops in Arco - Semi Live at 12 and Final at 20  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn contrast to Imst last weekend with only two double tops in the qualifications, nine male and seven female topped both routes in Arco, including Adam Ondra who did his debut in the WC 2016. Here is a video from Arco where he talks about what he has been up to lately. Qualification results.

The only two top climbers who also go for the Speed, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg, qualified as #23 and #30 respectively. Charlotte had also the best result being #24 out of 29 in the Speed with 10.54.

Live-streaming of the Semi starts at 12. The Speed final starts at 18.15 and the Lead Final 20.00.

 
 
Two 8a+ onsights by Jan Vopat (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Vopat has onsighted Mal Amores and Montserrat, both 8a+, in Rodellar, meaning that during the last two weeks the 13-year-old has onsighted six routes graded 8a to 8b. In the 8a ranking game, The Czech is #1 among the 14-year-olds and #13 in the overall junior ranking.

 
 
Chris Sharma doing the craziest move on his Le Blond 9c project  (5) Facebook
 

 
 
#2 in the 8a ranking game - Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Ryuichi Murai did three 8C's in a month this spring. Here we present his great video profile.

 
 
Adam Ondra to compete in Arco  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Arco this Friday and Saturday and the interesting news is that Adam Ondra will participate. The live streaming starts at 12.00 on Saturday with the semi followed by the final at 20.00.

Only two established Lead WC climbers, Charlotte Durif and David Firnenburg will also compete in Speed. The qualification begins at 9.30 on Saturday and then the participants have to go into the semi isolation at 11.00.

On Sunday, the 30th edition of the Rockmaster will take place with KO boulder and Duel where ten qualified athletes will climb neck-to-neck and the fastest climber goes to the next round. In Bouldering, seven invited climbers including Adam Ondra will first train and then redpoint four Boulders and the lowest-ranked of them will be eliminated after each Boulder. In total, Adam Ondra could win 9 000 Euro if he wins all the three events.

 
 
The 2020 Combined Solution  (19) Facebook
 

The normal solution for calculating who should win the gold in Sport Climbing Combined would be to sum up the results from all three disciplines. This is also more or less how they do it in disciplines such as decathlon and triathlon - in terms no extra credit being given to the winner of one discipline.

However, if IFSC stick with the actual scoring system that is adapted to 20 athletes, this is how it could look like: #1 = 100, #2 = 75, #3 = 60, #4 = 50... and #20 = 1.

In practice, this would mean that the best guys like Adam Ondra would most probably get the Olympic gold if they win one discipline and take the third place in the other, at the same time being dead last in Speed. Measured by points they would get 161 points and so beat a guy being #4 in all three disciplines, as that person only gets 150 points. Basing on the more logical ranking score, Ondra would get 24 points clearly beating the triple fourth guy getting only 12 ranking points.

It would be a bit peculiar about the point method that in fact until the qualifications are over, it would be more or less meaningless for all Boulder and Lead climbers to practice Speed. The reason for this is that the normal Speed climbers will anyhow most certainly get all high scores in that discipline.

Once the qualifications are over, some of the 20 qualified may focus on Speed as winning that event in combination with just one Top-10 position, could actually give you an Olympic medal at some 120 points.

An alternative to the scoring system, giving more or less the same results, would be to multiply the rankings in the three disciplines as it is done in Lead WC flash qualifications.

 
 
Jan Kareš, 42, sets new 6 h pull-up record = 3 569  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Kareš, who was #17 in a Lead World Cup in 1998, has set a new Guiness World Record by doing 3 569 pull ups in six hours. The 42-year-old, weighing some 80 kilos, has since 2008 spent some 150 days bolting in Sardinia, paying everything by himself, and that is what he does all his vacations.

- I love climbing this is only because some people invite me to events:-))

The record was a part of an event streamed live and Jan started with 500 sets of 5 pull-ups, followed by 300 sets of 4 pull-ups. He has been training and going for world records for the last seven years and he is also the current, one set, record holder with 232 pull-ups.

 
 
The best sport climbing all-rounders in the history?  (25) Facebook
 

Here is a draft list of the best sport climbers in the world based on their all-round top performance in all disciplines, from bouldering to multi-pitch, including also competitions. Surely, several names are missing so please suggest names. UPDATE: Many names have been forwarded but all of them do not have any good senior WC results.

1. Adam Ondra
2. Lynn Hill
3. Yuji Hirayama
4. Catherine Destivelle
5. Jorg Verhoeven
6. David Lama
7. Chris Sharma
8. Nina Caprez
9. Edu Marin
10. Klemen Becan, Caroline Ciavaldini, Kilian Fischhuber, Dani Andrada, Cedric Lachat

 
 
Europeans dominate the Lead World Cup  (1) Facebook
 

1. Domen Skofic 325 - Janja Garnbret 351
2. Jakob Schubert 232 - Magdalenda Röck 271
3. Sean McColl 208 - Anak Verhoeven 255
4. Stefano Ghisolfi 201 - Jain Kim 250
5. Gauthier Supper 200 - Jessica Pilz 157

The fifth stage will take place in Arco this weekend.

 
 
Skofic & Röck win in Imst  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic took his third victory in 2016 and levels up with his girlfriend Janja Garnbret, who was fifth after three straight victories, saying that she was so stressed about timing out. Anak Verhoeven was timed out even though she had a watch on her wrist and in fact, none of the female would have been able to reach the top within eight minutes. The wall in Imst is 21 meter high and rather vertical in the lower parts making it hard to climb fast. More great pics from (c) Eddie Fowke.

1. Domen Skofic SLO 53+ : Magdalena Röck AUT 56+
2. Jakob Schubert AUT 53+ : Mina Markovic SLO 56
3. Gauthier Supper FRA 50 : Jain Kim KOR 56
Complete results

Interestingly, all 16 finalist but one made it to hold 39 and in the end just the final itself took more than 2.5 hours.

 
 
Edu Marin does WoGü 8c (+) MP  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin, one of the very best allround climbers, comes with the great news on Instagram that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's WoGü 8c, 7c+, 8b+/c, 8b, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+, multi-pitch in Rätikon. Edu has previously said that he thinks the first pitch is 8c+.

- Yesterday I achieved the first repetition of "WOGÜ" the Monster of the Alps!!! Eight years have passed since its first free ascent by Adam Ondra in July 2008. A nice and hard process in which I've been submerged for nearly two months. The conditions in August were not the best: rain, moisture, heat, etc ... Perseverance, constancy, humility and motivation are some of the keys to unlocking this amazing line opened by Beat Kammerlander in 1997 in honor of Wolfgang Güllich.

Without you father this would not have been possible. Thank you for your patience and for calming the beast. Thanks Marc for your positive energy!!
This is also yours!! Dream Team!!!

 
 
4 million ascents in the database  Facebook
 

The 8a scorecard was launched in 2000 and today, the ascent #4 million has been added. In total, 62 500 members have added ascents on 3 935 crags and 1 686 boulder areas, which will help you to find the best climbs in the world. You can find the best and most popular climbs in our Tick List.

 
 
Imst final  Facebook
 

 
 
Video-interview with Sean Bailey  Facebook
 

Some few days after Sean Bailey was able to send 'Biographie' 9a+ in Céüse, one of our Spanish site editors, Ignacio Sandoval Burón, had the opportunity to chat with him about such a great ascent and many more things. You can watch it now in the following video-interview:

 
 
Finals in Imst live at 19.30  (2) Facebook
 

Ramonet and Anak Verhoeven won the semi in Imst. Complete results. The finals will be live-streamed at 19.30.

 
 
9a by Daniel Fuertes in Rodellar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Fuertes is in his best shape ever having done his fourth 9a this year, Siempre Libre in Rodellar. In the 8a ranking game, the 35-year-old is #7. (c) Iris Matamoros

- I tried the route about one month, twenty five tries more or less. The route was bolted by Dani Andrada and Luis Penin, few years ago. Dani did it in June, and now it would be the first repetition. It's a cool route!!! Very hard and technical. I liked to did it!!

 
 
8b and 8a+ onsight by Jan Vopat (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Vopat, 13, has onsighted an 8a+ and Le plaisir qui démonte 8b in Gorges du Tarn. By looking at Czech's scorecard, including 52 7c onsights, we can see that his focus is onsight climbing and that his personal redpoint best is also 8b.

8a believes that focusing on onsight is great for all kids as creating a wide grade pyramid is the best start for all youngsters and it is actually how Adam Ondra started. 8a try to stay away for promoting redpointing kids hunted by their parents.

 
 
The Path 8b+R trad by Alex Megos  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKen Etzel reports with a great picture on Instagram that Alex Megos has done a great debut of hard trad climbing by flashing Sonnie Trotter's the Path 8b+R in Lake Louise. R stands for it being run out with risk of injury. Actually, it was a 20 year old project, where Sonnie chopped the bolts before making the FA.

- At the base of the climb, we had to teach him how to place a cam. With Sonnie belaying and relaying beta, Alex embarked on the most inspiring piece of rock climbing I've ever seen. Over the next 40 minutes he calmly ticked his way through each of the bouldery cruxes, at times being 20-30ft run out over C3's, which hopefully were placed correctly. Pulling v10 over a suspect 000 absolutely blows my mind. Alex is not just a sport climber or a boulderer, he's a world class ROCK CLIMBER who will change the face of our sport.

 
 
Two 8c+'s by Jakob Kronberger (15)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger, who did his first 9a more than a year ago, has done two 8c+'s in Arco, Bucking Bronco and Warbeast, suggesting 8c for the latter as it went down quickly.

 
Chuck Odette

Charlie-Big Man on Camp
us (8b) - Hurricave, UT
 
Jordi Mata

Formula weekend 8a, Ter
radets
 
Koen Baekelandt

Chamonix bad night 7c+,
Freyr
 
Marina Inoue

Better Eat Your Wheatie
s 7b+, Hueco Tanks
 
Kim de Wolff

The right hand of darkn
ess 8a, Magic wood
 
Bonar McCallum

Samantha Li Working on
99 Heroin Balloons V9,
Hueco Tanks
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Tout à Bloc 2015 1st pl
ace
 
Eduard Vendrell

Shere Khan, 7c/+. La Se
lva, Camarasa.
 
Jesús Muñoz Chuchi

Black Ops 8a, Hoya moro
s
 
David Wimmer

Johanova 7c+, Osp/Misja
Pec
 
Heiko Queitsch

"Claude Monet" fb 8a/8a
+ or 8a+ first ascent
-Frankenjura- Photo
: Frank Kretschmann
 
Bertino Marco

Scoiattolo rosso 7a+ M
ontestrutto Piemonte se
ttore Big wall
 
Chuck Odette

Charlie O - Habitat for
Humanity (V7)
 
Markus Ixmeier

 
Kay Martin

Cafe Grande 7c, Franken
jura
 
Maria Stefania Ionel (f)

Bloody Mary, Cheile Tur
zii
 
Ryuichi Murai

Utsusemi 8b, Hourai
 
Joanna Tracz

Kant Krzywej 6c, Sokoli
ki
 
Roberto Martin (cabe)

Thriller 7c+, Yosemite
 
Jose E. Agustí

Massa pelis 8c+, Sant L
lorenç del Munt
 
David Palanjyan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Alex Guide

Sahara sector
 
Philippe Lacroix

Pleine lune 7a, Carsac
 
Juliette liso-y-claret

My first 8a "Electric U
mbrella"!! at Roquebrun
es, south of France! lo
cal bouldering spot!
 
Javier Elizondo

Cagadubtes, 8a. My fir
st 8a route. Some rest
between lots of crimps
and finger pockets.
 
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Erica Gatland - Its About Time V5
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
The future of climbing guidebooks is (also) digital  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe well-known German publishing house Panico Alpinverlag has started a long-term partnership with Vertical-Life, developer of the fastest growing digital guidebook app. 13 Panico guides of the most important areas in Germany have been digitalized already, as reported by Vertical-Life. More are to follow soon. The available app guides include the brandnew 10th edition of the Frankenjura guides by Sebastian Schwertner.
The Vertical-Life App now covers more than 2,000 sportclimbing, bouldering and multipitch spots all over Europe, including Yosemite. Climbing guide authors can contact office@vertical-life.info for more information on cooperation opportunities.
[App download here](https://x.zlag.it/vertical-life-app)
 
Voie Petit 8b attempt - Grand Capucin, Chamonix  Facebook
 
Are knee pads getting too good?  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSend Climbing has sent us some knee pads to try out and they are actually so confident that they present it as "The Downgrader". Earlier this summer Jorg Verhoeven actually gave an Hueco Tanks 8A a personal grade of 7B because of using a knee pad.

Some have actually said knee pads are getting so good that they should be forbidden both on rock and in competitions and Send Climbing's super sticky version belongs to this group. 8a can just agree that this is the best knee pad we have ever tested and it is also very user friendly. We can also agree on all their listed selling points.
 
Balázs Kovács (45) crushes harder and harder  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureBalázs Kovács started climbing in 1996 being 25 years old, when they opened one of the very first climbing gyms in Hungary. He started training and climbing more seriously some years later, and became successful on 7C Boulders and 8a Routes while working as an electrician and being a father of two girls. At the age of 43, he did his very first 7C+ Boulder and he is still progressing. In this picture, you can see him on one of his hardest projects, an 8b+, and he is very close on it.
 
Ondra and Garnbret winners of Arco Rock Master in Duel  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret won the 30th edition of the Arco Rock Master, which was held in a Duel format. Climbers climb on the same route competing one against the other.
 
Andrada and Markovic get the Arco Awards  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PicturePlanet Mountain reports that Dani Andrada won the Salewa Rock Award and Mina Markovic won the La Sportiva Competition Award in the Arco Legends of fame. (c) Giulio Malfer

Dani Andrada (41) is the legend that has bolted most hard core routes in the world and it is mainly thanks to him that the crags around Lleida have been the hardcore epicentrum of the world. Previously and since 2006, the Awards have been given based on the last year performances but clearly, they changed it in order to not give Adam Ondra his fifth award. The Czech has done many more hard routes compared to Andrada as well as bolting at least last year.
 
Blanco: the new shoe from Five Ten  Facebook
 
Comfortable and designable kids shoes from La Sportiva  Facebook
 
New harness from Singing Rock  Facebook
 
Five Ten dominates Boulder WC 2016  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureFive Ten has published a nice wrap-up of the Boulder WC 2016, where they proudly say that it was dominated by Five Ten Athletes. In fact, among the male both #1 and #2, Narasaki and Fuji, as well as #1 and #3 among women, Coxsey and Le Neve, all wear Five Ten shoes.

In the wrap-up, there is also a conversation with Melissa Le Neve where she explained her success by getting new motivation to train very hard, having fun as well as sacrificing outdoors climbing, which she will pick up again later this year.
 
IFSC need to speed up the comps  (10) Facebook
Have you ever heard about an Olympic sport where both the semifinal and the final take more than 2.5 hours each, with no break? Here are some suggestions to speed up the competitions, which is needed, at least until Tokyo 2020.

1. Don't untie. Pull down the rope instead.
2. Skip the 40 seconds extra viewing.
3. Use time in the final as a tie breaker.
4. Maximum time at a 15-meter-high wall: 6 minutes.
5. Inform the climbers and spectators about the time.
 
8b+ FA by Jonathan Hörst (13)  Facebook
 
The Technical, Physical and Mental Speed Olympic challenges are extreme  (4) Facebook
After talking to some of the best Speed climbers in the world, you understand that these guys are real professionals and dedicated athletes. Running up 15 meters sub 6 seconds cannot be reached in 2020 for the current best Lead and Boulder World Cup climbers.

Most of top male Lead or Boulder World Cup competitors will probably reach 10 seconds after some weeks starting to get the sequence right. Without any specifically explosive or lower body training, the most talented will go sub 9 seconds once the sequence has been optimized to perfection.

Sean McColl, who has continuously competed in Speed for some 15 years, including gaining gold in Youth World Championship, is normally doing mid eight seconds. The Canadian can also be said to have a similar physics to the best Speed climbers.

In order to go below eight seconds, you probably need to do specific physical training for a year and also do many competitions, which would get you to understanding how to deal with the mental pressure.

To get below 7 seconds in Tokyo 2020 you need to focus half of your training on Speed as well as gaining some weight in the whole body. Thus you will also have to deal with the mental pressure that your standard in Lead and Boulder will deteriorate and you will have to climb outdoors less.

To get below 6.5 seconds will only be possible for the very talented ones who would mainly focus on Speed until Tokyo. This means that you will go at least 10 000 times full on, on the 15 meters 6a+ Speed wall.

It should be added that Libor Hroza, currently #2 in the Speed World Cup, after reading the draft of the article, said:

- It looks good. I totally agree with climbing less outdoor, for those who will go to Olympics there won't be too much time for rocks. Rocks will be just an award when season is done. You have to look at climbing in the Olympics as a competitive sport, without typical lifestyle climbing thinking. The sport is way too far from rock climbing and it will go even further because of the Olympics.
 
Inside Alex Honnold  Facebook
 
Only McColl continously competes in Combined but he would be better at 100 m against Usain Bolt  (19) Facebook
Sean McColl is the only climber in the world who has continuously competed in Combined. At the same time he is one of the very best in both Lead and Boulder, and one of the worst in Speed. Normally he runs the fixed Speed track some 40% slower than the best guys.

Imagine Sean participating in 100 meters run in the 2020 Olympic standing next to Usain Bolt. Within one second, Sean would have been long behind and the audience would start smiling as he would probably be some 30% slower. This can be compared to when Sean stands next to any of the Top-10 World Cup Speed climbers, he is normally 30 to 50% slower.
 


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