Two 8c+' by Rafa Fanega (42)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRafa Fanega, who started climbing at 16 and did his first 8c+ being 39 years old, has done another two 8c+' the last week, El engaño and the FA of Maldita envidia both in Villanueva del Rosario. The 163 cm tall and 42 years old has now done nine 8c+'.

In total, Rafa has recorded 1 679 routes, out of which one third are FAs. Most of his FAs are from Fin del Mundo outside Madrid, which has been one of the most popular crags in Spain recently, although it is closed between January 15th to June 15th. The picture by Raul Santano is from Fin del Mundo. Interview by our spanish editor Talo Martin.

Do you think this could be the season to climb your first 9a?
To be honest I don't know. My life is bolt routes somewhere here and somewhere there. I climb as much as I bolt new routes, and in this way it is hard to be focus in something hard. The days I climb something hard is always without any expectations. I work 121 days a year and that gives me loads of free time, and with so much rock I don't rest too much.

Have you any idea of how many routes do you bolted?
I think that more than 1.000, but I guess I should count them. Since the day I live in Andalusia I don't know.. It's true that I could have bought a pretty nice camper van with the money I spent in the last decade. Always there are friends who help you with some bolts and hangers and I appreciate that. For me bolting is important as climbing.



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Yoga for Climbers  (1) Facebook
 



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Interesting gender insight by Hazel Findlay  Facebook
 



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8C FA again by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch has done his third 8C FA in just eleven days, Carinthian Dreams in Kärnten. Prior to these amazing sending days that have made him #1 in the 8a ranking game, he had done 450 boulders 8A to 8B+/C basically in just four years. The picture shows his wide pyramid. Interview with the full time technician who got his first sponsor just some months ago.

"Oh my god! Seems like I'm in the best shape ever! This is the hardest and one of the best problems I've ever done. It links the crackline (~8A+) into "Punching in a Dream" (~8B+). I've never put so much effort in a boulderproblem, all in all it took me about 17 sessions. Got really lucky with todays windy and pretty cold conditions. Compared to all the other hard boulders I've done/tried I would say it sits probably on the upper range of the grade. Just happy now!" (c) Simon Brunner



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Jernej Kruder does 2:nd ascent of Sharma's Es Pontas  Facebook
 



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Ethan Pringle does 2:nd ascent of Sharma's Jumbo Love  Facebook
 

Rvproj presents the full story including a uncut video form Ethan Pringle's send of Jumbo Love 9b. Ethan had been projected it for eight years when he did Sharma's 80 meter test piece in 2015.

Here is part of what Ethan wrote on Facebook after his send, "WOW!!! Yesterday I climbed my ultimate lifetime dream route, the most bad-ass sport climb I've ever laid eyes on, Chris Sharma's ‪#‎JumboLove‬ ! WOW. I can't believe it's over. I say that half in a literal sense because when I sent it, it was almost like an out of body experience that I can barley remember happening. My story on Jumbo Love spanned over eight years and involved every emotion I can think of: awe, excitement, love, admiration, longing, apathy, fear, frustration, anger, resignation, acceptance, and eventually, MOTHERFUCKEN GLORY!!!"

In 2000, Ethan took the silver in the Youth World Championship and his best result out of seven Lead and Boulder WC's is #16. On rock he has done a handful of 9as and Biographie 9a+ in 2007, when he was the #1 in the 8a Combined ranking game thanks to three 8B+ boulders he also climbed that year.

 
 
Two 8c+' by Daniel Fuertes (36)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Fuertes has done two 8c+' which share the same start in Rodellar. One is CHC which was put up by Dani Andrada with finisjes with a 7b+ after a good rest. The other is Los Cucos which is a FA of Fuertes where the exit is 8b+.

"It can be 9a, but this route has a good rest between the two hardest sections and I think that it's 8c+/9a. This fantastic route is 25 meters of super overhanging where you climb down!! Wow!! It's crazy!!! I want to say thank you to Alejandro Bada and Kymy de la Peña, because they climb with me this days there, and the area was so wet!! I feel lucky, with friends like this, impossible to fail!!"

On the picture by David Lopez Campe, Daniel is working on the 15 year project, No pain no gain which is thought to be 9a+. It is 40 meter long out of which 30 meters goes in a roof.

 
 
8C FA again by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch has done his second 8C FA the last ten days by Styrian Delirium in Weststeiermark. The 23 year old Austrian, who is working full time and got his first sponsor just some months ago, is the one who has done most 8A's and harder the last three years, 300+. He is also the new #1 in the 8a ranking game.

"F**k yessss!! Feels like we have some low gravity days. Felt so much stronger on those moves. Amazing progression from dreaming about climbing this whole line and eventually doing it. Honestly this is not the best line but it connects the two coolest problems in the cave, "The Unnamed Ungraded" 8B, about 15 moves, into the 19 moves of "Sound in Motion" 8B. With the little rest in between this thing climbs more like a route than a boulder. Definitely feels harder than all the other really long boulders I've done. All together it took me around 15 sessions."

The picture is from the FA of Traumata 8A+ which he put up this Thursday. In total, the Austrian has done 16 FAs 8A amd harder the last seven weeks.

 
 
Ondra reports great progress on his 9c Flatanger project  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture"I can see it happening this year, hopefully." Adam Ondra comes with great progress news on Instagram.

 
 
9a onsight again by Alex Megos  (16) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos, who did the first ever 9a onsight four years ago, reports on Facebook that he has done it again and this time in Gravere. The name of route is TCT which was put up by Stefano Ghisolfi, who commented, "I want to dedicate this route to Tito Claudio Traversa (that's why I called TCT), because I want everybody will remember him forever." TCT is chipped link-up of an 8c and an 8b+ but it was not Stefano who chipped it.

Adam Ondra has also onsighted it before and is one ahead of Megos with three 9a onsights. Amazing is however that Megos has onsighted 100 % of the 9a's he has tried to onsight.

Wow! How was it? How many 9a's have you tried to onsight but failed?
It was great! Kinda funny because I didn't expect it at all. I felt really bad warming up, got pumped very fast on the warmup routes and felt my finger a little bit which is normally a sign that I climbed a little bit too much too soon. So first I thought I will not try it at all but then got talked into it and decided to just give it a go.

It was anyway a totally unplanned thing that we ended up at Gravere. We were planning on going somewhere else but then the evening before Stefano's car didn't work anymore so we had to find someone to go climbing. Marcello Bombardi said he was going to Gravere so we went with him.

At the crag they told me that there is a 9a here that Adam onsighted a couple of years back so they were really excited and told me I should try it. Despite feeling not very good I thought I might as well just give it a go. And then it worked out!
I'm not totally sure but I think that was the first 9a I really tried to climb onsight.

It never worked out for me that I had a proper chance to try it. In the Frankenjura I've done already everything and it's super hard to onsight routes, and then all the other times I climbed a 9a either there were no quickdraws in or no chalk or I just bailed. So I ended up never really preparing and trying."

 
 
8b under the radar by Margarita Martinez (58)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureMargarita Martinez, a former ballet dancer who came to USA from Puerto Rico at 16 years old, started climbing at 34 years old. Having had many injuries, health problems and also working hard baking wedding cakes she stopped climbing having reached 7c+ due to Rheumatoid Arthritis (see picture) for four years until she was 49 years old. At 53, having done several 7c+' again she decided to start pushing harder.

Margarita started to focus on pull-ups and also pushing hard on the Maxi-pull endurance hang board until she got a new serious shoulder injury. The doctor suggested a replacement which should have meant stopping climbing. With a magic therapy she recovered again and having done four 8a+'s, she did Whole Shot 8b in Maple Canyon last year which originally was 8b+. (c) Edwin Teran

Now she has made great progress on two 8b+ projects but once again she has gotten a serious health problem due to a spinal fracture. "Getting old sucks but you make lemonade with all the lemons of life." Climbing less for the moment she is focusing more on her new business, Drypointe, which is a small ball that will dry out the smell and bacteria from your shoes.

How is it possible that your amazing story has not been picked up by the climbing media?
Not sure, I guess I don't advertise myself. Some people like to kiss and tell but not me I climb because I love it. The grade or notoriety is not important to me. I don't want to be defined by climbing. I want to be defined by a good person to others, a good mother/wife and a good human.Trainingbeta has done a podcast interview with me.

 
 
Ticklist, Ticklist...Ticklist  Facebook
 

There are now more than 4.3 million star rated climbs in the 8a data base which will guide you to the best crags in the world. You can also search the Ticklist by the highest onsight percentage or thumbs up percentage and you can search by specific grades. By checking the number of ascents you also get a good knowledge if the routes are worth trying.

If you want to go into more detail, you can check if many females or youngsters have done it or read comments in order to find out if the routes are good for you.

As the topo authors can not try all the routes in the data base, they have to trust the FAs, which they might be a friend of. Surely, these guys can also have the preference for a certain types of routes that might not reflect the 8a community opinion. A good example of this is the E.T. sector in Kalymnos, which is one of the highest star rated crags on the island at the same time it has not gotten good score in the 8a databas.

 
 
GriGri and GriGri+ presentation and comparison  Facebook
 

 
 
Barbara Zangerl - The world's best female rock climber  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureTen years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including two 8c+'s and several 8c's she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she recently did an 8c FA, Gondo Crack. Even so, multi-pitches should be her best discipline and here she the #1 female, here the full very impressive tick list. The good news is that she is now fully recovered from her back injury and last week she was a superior winner in the Melloblocco.

"The injury is still there. It is a broken disc. On the MRI pictures it looks still bad but I think I am totally recovered which means I have no more pain. But of course if do a lot of bouldering, jumping down from the blocs---then it comes back, I feel pain and I have to rest. I'm always doing a lot of bouldering in our home gym, especially in winter. There we have extra soft pads where I can train without any risk of hurting my back--- while jumping off the wall."

What is your plan and ambition for 2017?
My focus will be on bigger walls....I love alpine and big wall climbing....and maybe I can push my sport climbing limit a bit further--we will see. But in general I get the best out of climbing if i combine all styles of climbing....that is my way to stay motivated all over the years and I love it to do trad alpine and sport....and a bit of bouldering...

This summer I want to climb in Chamonix....I never have been there before....or I would be also interested to climb a route on Eiger, if the weather is good this summer.....In Autumn we will go to Yosemite again....
8a interview from 2015. (c) Thomas Senf & Klaus Dell'Orto

 
 
8A+ again by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Alex Puccio has done her 46th 8A+, Position of power in RMNP. "Fun power endurance boulder. Got a bit pumped at the end."

In total, the vice-world champion from 2014 has done 142 boulders 8A to 8B+ and she is #3 in the All time high ranking where Ashima Shiraishi is #1.

 
 
The best of Greece beside Kalymnos  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAris Theodoropoulos, who has made all Kalymnos topos, has just finished a new topo which covers the best of Greece. In total, 31 crags are presented in 435 pages also including over 1 000 routes in Leonidio. Just by looking at the map and the high number of high rated climbs, it should be on every climber's to do list to fly down to Athens and make a three week road trip (at least!) on the main land. Basically, this looks like the most weather proof winter destination in Europe as the stats says it very seldom rains and the average winter temperature is 10 degrees.

More info on Climb Greece where you also can buy it for Euro 40. The topo is produced together with Vertical-Life which means their App guide is included.

 
 
Zangerl and Gullsten win Melloblocco  Facebook
 

The 14th Melloblocco ended on Sunday May 14th with the presence of 2700 registered athletes and exitmated 6000 climbers reaching the valley.
Melloblocco is the widely recognized bouldering event with the most participants in the world. Held in Val Masino 100 km north of Milan, Italy, takes the name from “Mello” and “Blocco”: Mello is a lateral valley of Val Masino, and blocco means boulder. Unique for a competition, Melloblocco is held on real rock with new competition boulders every year. Val Masino offer, still, unlimited possibilities of new boulders all of them easily accessible.

In the competition, there were 12 boulders to do and Barbara Zangerl was superior by doing eleven up to 8A. Among the male, Anthony Gullsten won ahead of Jorg Verhoeven by counting the number of flashes. It should be mentioned that Alex Megos did his ten in just three days. More info (c) Klaus del Orto

1. Barbara Zangerl 11 (6) - Anthony Gullsten 11 (4)
2. Lara Neumeier 7 (1) - Jorg Verhoeven 11 (2)
3. Madeleine Eppensteiner 6 - Alex Megos (10) 1

 
 
O-Key also a Safety First innovation  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSome twenty years ago, an Italian World Cup climber fell to the ground and injured himself badly, as he had not tightened his bowline knot. Directly afterwards IFSC made it mandatory to use the eight knot during comps. At the same time, in every WC competition there is a problem to untie the knot that sometimes results in 1 - 2 minutes delay.

The O-Key device solves this problem by squeezing it in the knot before climbing. Back on the ground you just take the it out and untie will become much simpler. Possibly IFSC will make it mandatory to use on World Cups.

On the other hand, the O-Key is in fact also a Safety First innovation because by squeezing it in, it is like confirming that you have finished your eight knot. Most us have forget this once or have had friends who have forgotten it and in some cases it has resulted in bad injuries. Most of us re-check the knot high up on the route and with the "Safety First" device, all these guys will feel more comfortable.

After having used it for some days in Kalymnos, I am very positive about it and possibly this is a game changer when it comes to safety. Once my belayer says, - On belay!, I check my knot answering with - Safety First! Having kids, I will make it mandatory for them to use it and it will be nice to pass it over to my friends, showing I care.

The O-Key or "Safety First" device is an invention by Albi Schneider, who ten years ago introduced the belay glasses to the market. He will present the O-Key at Outdoor in Friedrichshafen in June. Yesterday, he got the message that his O-Key made it to the finals where they are about to present the best new products of 2017. The price will be 4 or 5 Euros but Albi also plans to sell them in packages of five for Euro 10, so you can have a package in your rucksack and give away to friends.

The O-Key can also be used as your small stick opening your carabiner while going for a stick clip.

 
 
Fifth 9a in 2017 by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who has done four 8b+ and harder onsights the last two weeks, is halfway of his goal to do ten 9a's in 2017 by sending Victimas Perez in Margalef. (c) Wojtek Kozakiewicz

"Endurance climbing on pockets with an insecure jump at the end. Extremely painful but all in all it's worth some struggle :)"

Now the plan is to start training for the Lead competition season that starts with the European Champion in Italy 30/6.

 
 
8C FA of Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, famous for having done more than 350 boulders 8A and harder the last 3.5 years, has done his second 8C FA, Iron Knuckles in Kärnten.

"Perfect moment! Surely one of the biggest fights I've ever had, and definitely the hardest problem I have ever climbed. I feel in really good shape at the moment and I've never put so much effort into a single boulder problem. I just really wanted to climb this thing and it was always fun to try those moves. All together I worked on this beast about 14 sessions. Two hours after my ascent it started to rain really heavily, so I got soaked on the 50 minute walk back to the car.

The problem links a perfect shaped crack with a little feet first section, about 8A+ at itself, into "Hard Knock Life" 8B, all in all about 20 hard moves and there is still an harder exit..."


Directly after the send Christof, who is working full time as an electrician and engine building technician, started to work linking the 8A+ traverse with an 8B+ finish. Another fun fact is that it is a 50 min hike to the boulder and as many times before, he did it by himself, in order to get a full day experience challenging some rocks out in the nature.

 
Alizée Sanchez

Fontainebleau
 
Michaela Kiersch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Eric Hörst

Cameron Horst sending T
hanatopsis (8c).
 
David Duez

Capoeira 7c+, Dayton po
cket
 
Christian Winklmair

DER Wasserfall in Steeg
zeigt sich von seiner
besten Seite!
 
Andrew Roepke

Andrew Roepke pulling t
hrough the the first ha
lf of Supercollider 8a.
 
Simon Kinigadner

Algund, Egyptian Arete,
 
Viktor bauch

Crazy Wolf 7a+, Erzgebi
rge
 
Elis Rees

Sam Clarke pulling hard
on Achilles Wrath, 8b.
 
Stefano Ghisolfi

Pure Imagination 8c+, R
ed River Gorge
 
Georgios Rouss

Sudostwand 6b, Meteora
 
Christian Bortz

Bread Loaf Factory (V10
/7C+)
 
Alex Knapp

Wenn Kuadreck Butter wa
r 8a, Zillertal
 
Sascha Gierlings

Zorba's restaurant 7a+,
Kalymnos
 
Michael Füchsle

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Mohsen beheshti rad

New project in iran_qaz
vin_niagh Maybe 8b
 
Jonathan Elter

Virgen Extra 8a, Margal
ef
 
Michaela Kiersch

Divine Punishment 5.13b
/8a
 
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Petra Queitsch (f) - Käpt´n hook 7c, Frankenjura
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Onbouldering summarize the last month  Facebook
 
What is most extreme?  (3) Facebook
 
Commentating video should be made standard  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureBasically, I find often climbing videos pretty boring as you have no insight of how the route is like and how it felt for the climber. One example of this is the 30 min documentary of Ethan Pringle doing Jumbo Love but if you get Ethan's comment as he climbs it, it did become one of the most interesting climbing videos I have ever seen. Commentating videos like this should be made standar but possibly it is just Ethan and a few others that can pull it together. Video on demand for USD 3.

The video producer is Spenser Tang-Smith and he says that, "Ethan was really happy to do it too, it helped him bring the whole experience to a conclusion." Interestingly, Ethan says that Jumbo Love did not take his full 100 % mental and physical capacity and he shares some insights about that most of the time we only use 80 % of our total capacity.
 
Future Risk Management in Sport Climbing  Facebook
"You climb at your own risk" is a mantra that is used in climbing but clearly that does not include broken anchors or anything like that in an indoor gym.

In Sweden, the Consumer Government Agency have said that if a club point out some specific routes that are good for beginners to start leading, this can only be done on well protected safe routes. If it turns out that the novice did fall to the ground although the belayer did nothing wrong, the club can be hold responsible.

With the big increase of gym climbers who want to go out and try leading for the first time, it is important that the local clubs and communities can recommend some safe routes, especially for the teenagers.

It might have been that previously all outdoor beginners did know that, "You climb at your own risk" but in 2017, there are probably thousands of gym climbers who just assume that the beginner routes are safely protected like in the gym.

Here are the 8a bolting recommendations for easier routes:

#1 at 3 meters
#2 at 4 meters
#3 at 5.5 meters
#4 at 7.5 meters
#5 at 10 meters

If we are talking about very hard routes with a relatively much easier start, it is normally OK with longer distance in between the bolts. When it comes to clipping positions and grades, on a 6a route the clipping positions should be adjusted to 160 cm climbers meanwhile on an 8a route, 170 cm could be applicable.
 
8a.nu and Vertical-Life team up  Facebook
Click to Enlarge Picturewww.8a.nu was started as my personal blog where I wanted to spread news of the new routes I put up and also where I did share the training tips I gave as the coach for the Swedish Youth team including Said Belhaj. In 2000, the scorecard was developed by my webmaster Leif Jägerbrand and within some few months, 8a did become a very popular global website. Most of the actual scorecard pages are actually looking the same as they did in 2000.

In 2002, Jonas Emanuelsson joined as the new webmaster and the actual website including Ticklists etc is his work. During several years, we have tried to find new webdesigners that could help us redesign 8a to state of the art look community interaction and user friendliness. Tieme van Veen has helped us with the beta.8a.nu available for the mobile phone and within a week or so, you will be able to add routes here much quicker.

During this spring, I have lived with my family in Bressanone, Italy, where Vertical-Life is located. It was started by Matthias Polig and friends in 2012, with the aim of creating a worldwide premium topo platform. Vertical Life offers a system to combine printed guidebooks with all the advantages an app can offer. In fact all there partners guidebooks offer a code to unlock their digital version for free. Till now Vertical Life offers approved content for 50 destinations including Kalymnos, Frankenjura, Yosemite, Magic Woods to name a few. Right now they are working on the Céüse guidebook in collaboration with Arnaut Petit.

I do like this approach to base topos on the local community instead of ripping off these local guys by just copying their work and selling it. The local FAs and the community around them including topo authors, rebolting and taking care of access issues etc, are the key in our very fast growing climbing community.

Lately, they have also created an App where gym owners can manage their routes, which then also can be Zlagged by the climbers in order to create a training-log. The platform is becoming a more open tool for different players such as gyms, coaches and events.

Based on our mutual focus and because VL, in fact, is also a design company, having put up the exhibition The Climbing Gardens of the world in Berlin, we started discussing if they could make a total make over of 8a.

I am very happy that finally we have made a deal and that VL will invest in 8a and that they have started to work on this big mission. At the same time, I will remain as the editor-in-chief allowing me to spend more time finding and presenting the latest news and training articles etc.

I am very sure that this cooperation will create a much better product. There will be less banners on the first page and it will be easier to add and find routes in the database. Please feel free to give your suggestions on what we should improve and what could be included in the upcoming modern website in order to give you a better experience visiting 8a.nu.
 
Five Ten dominates the Boulder World Cup  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureFive Ten has punlished Boulder World Cup Mid-Season Update including many nice pictures and videos linked. As a matter of a fact, Five Ten is the leading shoe manufacturer in the overall rankings. (Coxsey #1, Garnbret #2, Narasaki #3 and Fujii #5: La Sportiva is second with Watabe #1, Noguchi #4, Chon #4, Klingler #5)

"Janja Garnbert whose main focus is actually lead climbing is just 8 points behind Shauna Coxsey in the overall rankings. In the men, Keita Watabe sits in first overall with Aleksei Rubtsov and Tomoa Narasaki in second and third respectively.

With just three rounds to go in Vail (USA), Navi Mumbai (India) and Munich (Germany) it would appear to be all to play for in both the men’s and women’s."
 
Euro Cup in Bouldering in Portugal  Facebook
98: Baptiste Ometz SUI - Johanna Holfeld GER
00: Leo Favot FRA - Camilla Moroni ITA
02: Davidi Moroco ITA -Naile Meignan
Complete results
 
How to climb with small kids outdoors?  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureOur youngest son was 18 months when we first put on a harness on him. Proudly we saw him crawl ten meters up before we realized that we had not taught him to get down... Later we did understoond that it is almost impossible to get down from a slab using a full body harness before they are at least three years old. At that time, we had anyhow started using just a normal harness which is not recommended as they can easily rotate upside down as their head including helmet are relatively heavy.

We have never had such a problem but we were very careful in the beginning at the same time we made them just hang and also use a chest harness as a compliment.

However, in practice and although our summer place is located just ten meters from a beginner crag they did not start climbing until one month after we had placed gymnastic rings above our sofa in our living room. One hour daily playing with them made they suddenly want to go for the 10 meter routes in the gym. Before this, it seemed that just the challenge was to big for them.

When it comes to outdoors, we practice them same comfort philosophy and almost always pull in the rope and try to let them climb as easy and short routes as possible. They also use knee-pads as they otherwise often actually hurt themselves.The biggest success so far is by timing them on the possibly easiest route in the world, 1-2-3 ABC in Kalymnos. During the latest session, they played on it ten times each in a row optimizing the start position as well as tick mark the key holds, to set new records. When it comes to shoes, it works almost as good with just regular shoes.

Now their focus is to go for personal record in heights and during the last session, we could here the older one actually hum when he was approaching the anchor at 25 meters. We also often give them a mission cleaning or putting in draws. Yesterday, we actually understood that possibly we should not have focused so much on their climbing as we now spend more time belaying them than we climb ourselves.

1. Buy gymnastic rings and knee pads
2. Let them try the harness at home including hanging in it
3. The shoes must be so comfortable that they can use them several hours
4. Practice hanging and coming down before starting climbing
5. Pull all the time in the rope when they climb
6. Start with the shortest and easiest routes possible
7. Give them missions with the quick draws and chalk
 
Rock Ljubljana  (1) Facebook
Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon put on a stellar performances as they both flashed all four final boulders and won Euro 3 000 each in the Rock Ljubljana which was shown on Slovenian TV.

1. Jongwon Chon (KOR) - Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2. Jernej Kruder (SLO) - Katja Kadic (SLO)
3. Aleksej Rubcov (RUS) - Chloe Caulier (BEL)
4. Jan Hojer (GER) - Hannah Midtbo (NOR)
5. Domen Skofic (SLO) - Mina Markovic (SLO)
More info and pics
 
Emil Abrahamsson (20) from overweight to almost worldclass in five years  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureEmil Abrahamsson started climbing when he was 15 years old, being quite overweight at 158 cm and 75 kg. Two years later he climbed outdoors for the first time and during his second outdoor year he did several 8A's. Now he is an 183 cm powerhouse at 77 kg doing 8B without any specific training and twice he has been #4 in the Swedish Nationals.

"In 2017, I started to focus on something I had skipped before, crimping. I actually began crimping just last year, before that I refused as I was afraid of getting injured. I have always been strong at pinching and grabbing slopers and slowly I am also building up my crimping strength. Finally I feel I can increase my crimping strength without being afraid of injuries. I have noticed that this has improved my climbing a lot."

What's interesting is it that he has not had a trainer or done any structured or organized complimentary training. His focus is outdoor and repeating as many problems as possible instead of just going for the hardest projects.

"I climb as much I can but I am quite limited by my university studies and I feel as though my body needs to rest a lot to prevent injury. During good weeks I can climb 4-6 days a week but if it is good weather then I'll just be climbing outdoors.

I have not done so much gym training before this year, which is when I began doing some core training which helps a lot. I try to do it after every indoor session but nothing structured yet."


In regards to being asked questions about having been a super talent and if he had been very successful in any other sport when he started training, then he explained that he had been overweight!

"I have never thought of myself as being very talented. This is something I like a lot so my body has just adapted to it. I am always focused for climbing and the sport is something I want to continue with forever. The feeling of sitting on top of a boulder after a send with a cup of coffee is just the very best thing. Nowadays, this is my focus and the absolutely best way to get away from stress and the ordinary life." Erik Carlsson video from when Emil did an 8B which he thought to be 8A+.
 


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