8c+ by Jenya Kazbekova  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJenya Kazbekova, Youth World Champion in 2010 who was #8 in Chamonix (Lead) and #13 in Munich (Bouldering) this year, has done her first 8c+ Güllich in Crimea. (c) Ilia Karpenko

"First time I tried it was ten days ago. This route was really hard for me, but it was my style of climbing. First part is vertical wall with very small crimps and after is overhang with few powerful moves. I think, I did it in 10 attempts.

In October I'm going to China on two World cups and after also in Slovenia. I hope, that I will have a chance to go on rocks after the season of comps. I would also like to try the Olympic format."


Her father Serik has won World Cups both in Lead and Bouldering and her mother Nataliya Perlova, has a silver and a bronze in Bouldering World Championships. Jenya did her first 8b+ when she was 13 years old so all together the Ukraine family is among the most successful climbing families in the world.



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Live-streaming on Sunday from Edinburgh  Facebook
 

From the qualification results from the Lead World Cup in Edinburgh we can see that seven female and for male topped both routes. Here is the live-streaming schedule for Sunday.

09:30-12:00 Lead Semi-Finals (LIVE)
12:30-13:30 Speed Finals (LIVE)
16:30-17:30 Lead Finals (LIVE)



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Adam Ondra - it takes a lot to do 9c  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTraining Beta has made a great one hour interview with Adam Ondra focusing on what it takes to do 9c; Physical training, physiotherapist, relaxation, speed, kneebars with calf focus, diet, visualization and being happy. This just might the most in-depth training interview ever done with Adam.



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Puccio: My mental game is a lot stronger  Facebook
 



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Riverbed 8B by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who just have won Arco Rock Master and Adidas Rockstar, has done her 22nd 8B, Riverbed in Magic Wood. "Psyched! second day on it. Also got to watch Joel (Zerr) smash the boulder first try today! This place is so beautiful, psyched for more boulders in the forest!!! :)"

The 28 year old is #1 in the ranking game which she has been more or less for eight straight years in spite of some bad injuries. During her last 23 World Cups her worst result is #10 including taking the silver in the World Championship in 2014. (c) Joel Zerr

" I will be taking over @vertical.life.climbing Instagram today! I will be posting some pictures from our climbing day and I'll post a story of our day, make sure to check out @vertical.life.climbing Insta!!!"



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8b again and again by Cathy Wagner (52)  Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner, who has done more than 600 8a and harder, has done two 8b's, Nelson Mandela and Paulololol in Verdon. Checking her scorecard we can see that she is at her peak with 11 routes 8a+ and harder the last 12 months. Cathy did her first 8a in 1994.

Here are some previous comments from the 52 year old how she has been able to keep up her level. "I warm up less and less. I have not the patience to deal with and it's an error. My best flash routes have been done completely cold. The few warm up I do it's tai-chi movements, I started lessons a year ago. It permits at the moment for me to keep moving my energy with softness and to focus about the moves of the route I'm trying when I'm at the ground."

 
 
8c+ in Flatanger by Paige Claassen  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaige Claasen reports on Facebook that she has done Odin's Eye 8c+ in Flatanger, after some ten days of projecting. On the picture from Trainingbeta she is on the, "burly undercling sequence that I struggled to link even from the hang.

Paige, who was #14 in the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, has previously done Just do it 8c (+). So it seems she very well knows how to handle both 3D climbing as well wall climbing at crimpers. More info at her website

On her Instagram she has added, Now I can move on to my secondary project of trash cleanup around the crag - the global climbing community should be embarrassed by all the trash that is tucked beneath that talus field. We're all to blame, as it's easy to accidentally leave things behind, but c'mon folks. We can definitely do a better job to keep our crags trash free!

 
 
9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done a 9a+ FA in Flatanger, which starts from Thor's Hammer 1, 9a (+). The 80 meter link up makes for a new 9b+ project. ( c) Bernando Gimenez

On his way home, Adam stopped in Hell, a small village just located by Trondheim airport, where he did the FA of Hello 9a. In total the 24 year old, has now done 134 routes 9a and harder. The runner up, Alex Megos, has done almost half as many.

 
 
First 8c+ by Iuri Reusa (43)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIuri Reusa has done his first 8c+, L'extremacura plus in Gravere. On the picture is also his coach and his two sons, Michele (10) and Matteo (9), who have already done 7c+ respectively 7c on top rope. (c) Marco Guidotti

"I started to climb twenty years ago. After one year I was able to climb my first 8a. In the next years I climbed without regularity and without a specific training. Three years ago I started to climb more seriously because my sons had started to climb and mostly I started to train with the help of my brother, who is my personal coach. I think that my improvement was made possible also for the opening in my city of a beautiful climbing gym, Kuota, where I train often.

Last year I was able to climb my first 8c and after numerous 8b and 8b+ in a few attempts my coach recommended me to try to break my limits. After five days of attempts I was able to climb it. My goal for the future is try to send "TCT" a famous route in Gravere opened by Stefano Ghisolfi and graded 9a.

 
 
Lucas de Jesús: "We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020"  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUniversity student (although candidate to firefighter if his diopters don't get increase), Lucas de Jesús is one of the young spanish crushers that send 9a's. After a successful summer in Rodellar, he answers some questions about his workday routine to send his first 9a. (C) Guillermo Domínguez

Looks like 2017 is your year, isn't it?
I think that 2017 is the more I have ever climbed. I moved to study in Huesca last september and since february I have been climbing 4-5 days per week. I almost stop with the gym just to be focused outdoors and climb everywhere around. During the summer I've been woriking in Rodellar and I could climb everytime I wasn't wornking.

Did you clearly think to climb a 9a when you started climbing of was it just 'accidental'?
I couldn't believe it. Two years ago I was still talking with my friends about 9a's as something out of our range. It was something big and I never had the courage to try once. This suited me and it was just be stubborn and persistent.

What about Olympics, do you fancy?
I love the idea about the climbing scene into the Olympics because it will bring many advantages to this sport, but the format is a mistake because in Speed there will be not seen anybody climbing that 15m wall in 6 seconds, and the same in Boulder and Lead. Can you imagine a non-disciplines athletic championships where a guy like Usain Bolt is out of the final cause he wasn't good in marathon? Maybe is excessive, but in many ways is the same.

And of course that I would like to go, but I think that I will watch it on TV.. I'm realist and I know it will not happen cause in Spain there are a lot of climbers with a level above mine and in addition they're focused on it. We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020."

 
 
8C+ by Daisuke Ichimiya  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaisuke Ichimiya has done his first 8C+ by repeating Daniel Woods' Creature from the black lagoon in RMNP and is #3 in the ranking game. "I took seven days. 3rd and 4th move was hard for me, so I trained to pull up on those holds! I also practiced many other moves and the knee bar." (c) Chikara Ishizuka

The Japanese, who has been some 40 days in Colorado, says the environment is so good with all these strong climbers has three more days and hopes to do some more hard stuff. Once back, he might start competing again.

 
 
Adidas Rockstar - Best of  Facebook
 

 
 
9a by Mateusz Haladaj  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMateusz Haladaj has repeated Stal Mielec 9a in Dolina Kluczwody. "The hardest line of Poland, was close to make the FA in 2015. Feeling fit after a first real training period in my life." Before doing any real training, the Pole had done ten 9a's and two 9a+'. Adam Kokot

 
 
Puccio and Narasaki excel at Adidas Rockstar  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who just won the Arco Rockmaster after having prepared in Magic Wood, did again in Adidas Rockstar. She was in the lead after the two first boulders where three out of six were eliminated and she was in the lead in before the superfinal. In the interview she said that after some competition break she has come back with a, "free spirit and stronger mentality."

Last year, Tomoa Narasaki won after having done the super final boulder in 14 seconds and this year, he did it in 16 seconds. Also the Japanese lead after all rounds coming into the super final. From the complete results we can see that among the 6 + 6 finalists, 3 + 3 of them where from Japan. In total, only Shauna Coxsey from a country in western Europe and she was tied at last place.

Overall, the Adidas Rockstar was again a huge success for the organzer and 3 500 in the crowd, as well as the athletes, enjoyed it to the fullest. The six route setters did, as almost always in bouldering comps nowadays, a perfect job.

 
 
Filip Schenk (16): World Champion in Boulder climbs everything  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFilip Schenk, who got a gold in Boulder and silver in Combined at YWC, flashing all the eight final boulders, lives in Val Gardena high up in the middle of the Dolomite mountains. In the picture Filip is flashing a light after having climbed a multi-pitch that starts from his village. Thomas Monsorno

- I started climbing when I was six years old and the first years we went out rock climbing every weekend up in the mountains and sometimes also multi-pitches. Once I started to train for competition less outdoors but I always have also some outdoor projects.

During this summer he has been in Magic Woods where he did two 8B's and flashed Jack's Broken Heart. The week before the YWC he went to Frankenjura where he did an 8c.

- I train mainly in my home gym also because it is not easy to find the time because we had many comps this summer. I normally train about 5 times a week and there for 2 till 4 hours, it depends always from what I have to do. I often do endurance and power exercise or also just trying boulders and routes.

It was really nice and also interesting to compete in the combined because it was something new. Also if I have to say that I like the individual disciplines more but maybe I will change opinion with some more speed training! For the youth Olympics I will for sure do some more speed training. Before Innsbruck I haven't done much speed maybe about 10 sessions. Tokyo would be for sure nice but also quite difficult that I can go because of the low number of participants but I will definitely try it!

 
 
8c+/9a DWS FA by Chris Sharma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has made the FA of Big Fish 8c+/9a on Mallorca with the crux 20+ meters above the Mediterranean sea. When it comes to DWS, Sharma is the master of both grade and beauty, including the FA of Es Pontas 9b and his recent 8b+ above a river. (c) Joao Giacchin

- I actually scoped it like 12 years ago. Last year I climbed part of the line but with an easier finish so this year was great to take it up a couple steps and finish the complete line. I did work it out on a rope. Without bolts I had to do some very creative aid climbing to get in to the holds and try the moves. Anyways of course it's high and I fell several times at the very top but I don't want this to be seen as a crazy reckless activity. The mentality is very similar to bouldering and once you test out the falls you gain more confidence but still always have to be somewhat in control.

 
 
Nalle does the FA of The Finnish Line 8C/+  Facebook
 

 
 
The Japanese show that Power and Endurance are less important  (30) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt seems like the new route setting mainly on volumes goes hand-in-hand with the recent extreme progress for the Japanese national teams. Previously, route setting with smaller holds and more obvious solutions, seems to more have favored power in Bouldering and endurance in Lead.

Climbing on volumes means instead that your technical, tactical and mental skills are challenged more. It is not good enough to be the strongest any longer. If there are volumes ahead of you, you need a bigger repertoire of moves and to be able to make intuitive decisions how to find rests and clip in strange positions. It is about going for the next unknown hold dynamically, losing balance and just keep going, rather than doing an obvious hard lock-of static cross over closed crimp move and then rest for 30 seconds on some jugs.

In fact, the Japanese coaches have said that power and endurance are what they focus on least. Instead, they just to go for as many challenges as possible, having fun jumping around above the madras. This also goes along with the Japanese culture focusing on improvements and continuous cooperation. If the coaches see that an athlete lack a particular strength, they just build and recommend doing such moves rather than start lifting weights.

The sweet thing is of course that once all gyms around the world have more volumes and walls with more different angles, climbing will become even more fun to watch, we might see less closed crimp finger injuries for the youth and it will be more fun to train in order to become the Olympic Champion. We are back to the roots - Monkey swinging climbing! (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Youth A Combined highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Paraclimber World Champion Urko Carmona does 8a+ and 7c+ onsight  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOne legged World Champion Urko Carmona has done Mal de Amores in Rodellar, which is his first 8a+. During his summer trip around some Spanish crags, he also did his first 7c+ onsight, in a new area in Cantabria. (C) Beto Abad

"This year I also did one of my hardest routes, Mal de Amores 8a+ in Rodellar. It was one of my goals for 2016. It is for sure one of my hardest because is 40m long, with a few hard boulder problems and endurance with just a few goodish rests. I guess that trying this route gave me the strength, endurance and trust to onsight the 7c+. I have been always close to do 8a or 7c+ onsight, but I just could do it on my second go. I'm very happy. "

 
André Funari (Frango)

Koberle no Faber Castel
l 6c+, Sao Bento doSapu
cai
 
Leo Skinner

dizdira 7C at albarraci
n, spain
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

Herculane - Surplomba
 
Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haładaj on Stal
Mielec 9a/+, Dolina Kl
uczwody
 
Eric Hörst

Cameron Horst sending T
hanatopsis (8c).
 
Mike Kimmel

Attempting "Good Day Ba
d Day" 8A. Moab.
 
Daisuke Ichimiya

Horizon 8c, hiei
 
Eric Hörst

Jonathan Horst sending
He Biggum (13d), Ten Sl
eep
 
Flavio Castagnari (Massa)

O Medo é Servidão 9a br
(7c fr) Climber: Flav
io Castagnari (Massa)
Falésia dos Olhos / Bra
sopolis / MG Brazil
 
Jose Manuel Cano

Fugazzi 8a, Sant Lloren
ç del Munt
 
Mikolaj Blaz

Si vols pots 7a+, Chuli
lla
 
Bastian Wagner

Grampians, Australia "T
ouchstone Pictures, 7c+
"
 
Georgios Rouss

Sudostwand 6b, Meteora
 
Philipp Gaßner

Pain makes me stronger,
every day! 8c+, Franke
njura
 
Chuck Odette

Big Man On Campus, Hurr
icave, UT
 
Dubard Loïc

CDF 2016 qualifications
 
Sascha Gierlings

Zorba's restaurant 7a+,
Kalymnos
 
Moi Barea

tonsai ( tailandia ) ta
mtrum 8a+
 
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
The science of falling  Facebook
 
Female elite are skinnier than male elite  (4) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureBody weight in climbing is a hot topic of discussion and has been for a long time. It’s widely acknowledged that carefully controlled body fat composition can help in some situations, but is lighter always better?

We (Lattice Training) have looked at this in the past but it’s always good to have more data, so we’ve teamed up with 8a.nu to have a little look at some of the climbers in their database. As a starting point we’ve looked at the distribution of BMIs for all (non-anonymous) climbers in the top 100 female/boulder/route rankings (183 females and 124 males).

The female average is 19.3 and the male average 21.1. The ‘healthy’ BMI range is typically given as 18.5 - 24.9 so, 85% of the women lie within the healthy range and of the remaining 15% of women the majority are only just below the ‘healthy’ mark. For the men, 99% are in the healthy range.
 
Tendon technology  Facebook
 
Fred Moix doing Greenspit 8b+ trad  Facebook
 
Mina's accident might change harness design  (12) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk was taken to hospital two weeks ago after a bad up-side-down fall on Rainshadow 9a. She is OK now and has said it was probably due to the harness being too big for her.

Having watch the video and talking to Mina, who wants to spread awareness, here are my five factors, beside the size, that possibly had some impact on why she turned up-side-down.

Falling and rotating sideways:
Prior to the fall she was standing high on her right foot. As she fell she rotated to the right with her right foot still high up. As the rope caught her, her right hip had turned almost sideways to the wall, still having her leg high.

Tie-in point moved towards her right hip:
The up-side-down fall could possibly be explained by her tie-in point had moved some 10+ cm sideways towards her right hip. A couple of the cm can be explained by her harness being over sized but most of the movement of the tie-in point were probably due to: long elastic leg loops (2) and the very long and loose strap under the tie-in point (1). See picture.

Body type, bolt placement and belay:
Further more, as Mina is 170 cm and 57 kilo with relatively small hips and rather broad shoulders, her upper body including her head is placed far out from her center of gravity. The bolt was placed midways out in a roof and as she fell standing from the lip further out of it, the rope dragged her inwards. Lastly, the belay was normal meaning it could have been more dynamic.

Lessons-learned could be: In order to avoid having the tie-in point moving towards the hip, harnesses should have shorter elastic leg-loops which also should include warnings. The elastic leg-loop is in one way misleading as you think it fits when it is in reality maybe five cm too big. In practice, it would be great with in between sizes if you can not adjust the leg loops. Further more, the producers should reduce the length of the distance from the leg loop to the tie-in point (3) as well as make the tie-in point (1) more narrow.
 
European Youth Championships (B) - Slany (CZE)  Facebook
Jan-Luca Posch AUT - Franziska Sterrer AUT
Peter Ivanov BUL - Elena Krasovskaia RUS
Paul Jenft FRA - Naile Meignan FRA
Complete results

Overall, France and Austria were the best nations and Slovenia continues the trend with relatively poor results. Interesting was that the results in between the qualification and the final were up-side-down. The six winners qualified to the final as 4.2, meaning that they started early and had the advantage with fresh holds. None of the qualification winners, won also the final. Instead, they placed on average 3.2 in the final.
 
Adidas Rockstar - Livestreaming 20.15 on Saturday  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMore info atAdidas Rockstar.
 
Down climbing holds in Stockholm  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKlätterverket in Stockholm follows the trend in Stockholm to put up holds you can down climb boulders in order to avoid problems in knees and the back etc.
 
Jakob Schubert in regards the changes on the Boulder WC scene  (4) Facebook
 
How Aliens are made  Facebook
 


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