8c FA by Jonathan Hörst (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Hörst, who did his first 8b+ when he was 10 years old, has done an 8b+ and the FA of Valkyrie 8c in Ten Sleep. "New route on our Frankenjura Wave Wall. Hardest route I've ever climbed. Power climbing on really small holds."

Jonathan's father is Eric Hörst, one of the most famous climbing coaches, who has published many training books. As you can see in the picture, the focus is building a wide pyramid rather than just go for the the hardest grades.



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Onsight slaughter by Adam Ondra again and a 9a+ FA  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has visited six crags in Switzerland and Germany in the last two weeks and added 17 routes 8a and harder. The most impressive are two 8c+ onsights, Barracuda in Kaitersberg and Gimmel Express in Grimmelwald.

"8c in the guidebook, but it felt like dfferent level compared all the other 8c's in the last weeks... And Jonathan seems to go for 8c+ too. Amazing fight in a really desperate warm conditions."

In total, the 23-year-old has now onsighted 17 routes 8c+ and three 9a's, excluding some personal grades. The runner-up in the onsight ranking is Alex Megos with one 9a and then there are some guys who have onsighted a couple 8c+'s.

Furthermore, Adam did the FAs of Hyper finale 9a+ and Super finale 9a in Rawyl. Apart from that, he conquered Black Label 9a in Frankenjura in 25 minutes.



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Wild Country's Revo belay device  (4) Facebook
 

James Pearson is telling 8a.nu about the new Wild Country's Revo belay device during the Friedrichshafen Outdoor Fair 2016:



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Briancon World Cup summary  Facebook
 



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Monkey Wedding 8C also by Nalle Hukkataival  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the 8th ascent of Fred Nicole's Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands.

- Feels good to complete a climb I started such a long time ago, but crossing one last climb off my list also marks the end of an era for me in Rocklands. Luckily there are still plenty of great projects in sight to keep busy and new areas to continue developing!

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has done his first 8C, Monkey Wedding in Rocklands. "Today I did the main project of my trip in Rocklands! I'm very satisfied! Today will be a party!"

During the last 12 days, the Russian sent 14 boulders 8A and harder including four flashes up to 8B and he goes to #7 in the 8a ranking game.

In 2014, he did a very strong debut in the Boulder World Cup as he was #6 but later he could not make it to the semi in most events.

 
 
Drew Ruana (16) sends Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a and more  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDrew Ruana has started his Euro trip amazingly good by sending Le Cadre Nouvelle 9a on his fifth try including two tries last year. (c) Kyle O'meara

The 16 year old has previously done one 9a, the FA of The Assassin in Sith Rocks which was harder for him. Further more Dews has done Chronique 8c and Le parte du Diable 8c+ in just three goes during the first four days in Céüse.

 
 
First 9a for Andy Winterleitner  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndy Winterleitner has done his first 9a, Jungfraumarathon in Gimmelwald, after two years of projecting.

"We went to Gimmelwald after a storm with heavy rain. It was quiet and special weather and I felt really calm. On my first try today I climbed perfect the first section, did well the hard boulder in the middle and the head was ready to fight for the last part which burns your body out with every move. This Go was perfect and I couldn’t find some words after clipping the anchor. No shouting of joy and reaction. Just sitting on the floor and crying for a moment. Overwhelmed to have finished a long business.

Some months of only training indoors the last winter, doing a lot of bouldering and campusboards sessions were important for my success. For doing this the mental part was really important and sometimes I have struggled to hang just on plastic holds."

 
 
Janja Garnbret (17) superior again  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePouring rain and wet holds did not stop Janja Garnet from topping in the final after a great fight although she was timed out. The 17-year-old Slovenian has not been beaten by any of the 12 routes during the 2016 World Cup. (c) Luka Fonda
Complete results

1. Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Jessica Pilz AUT
3. Magdalena Röck AUT

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins again  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture- It is a mental change for sure. I have not trained more...and I did not let Villars destroy my feelings, Domen Skofic comments on his progress in 2016 getting his second victory, in the live-streaming. The Slovenian takes the overall lead with 225 points ahead of Sean McColl with 208 points. Last year Domen, who is #3 in the 8a ranking game, was #4 overall. (c) Luka Fonda
Complete results.

1. Domen Skofic SLO
2. Romain Desgranges FRA
3. Sean McColl CAN

 
 
The new La Sportiva performance climbing shoe  Facebook
 

Pietro Dal Pra describes for 8a.nu the new La Sportiva performance climbing shoes during the recent Friedrichshafen Outdoor Fair 2016:

 
 
Domen and Janja, Anak and Jain win the semifinal in Briancon  Facebook
 

Great show in Briancon final, where Janja Garnbret was the first one to top and the 17-year-old did it shaking out on most of the last moves. In fact, this was the eleventh WC route in 2016 and nobody has reached higher than Janja on any route. Also Jain Kim and Anak Verhoven topped the 8b+ route meaning that if they are tied in the final, the faster climber will be ranked the highest.

Among the male, Domen Skofic got the highest by touching the top jug. Once again, there was great live streaming with comments also from the route setter and interviews with many athletes including Domen and Janja. Complete results -
Live streaming on Saturday at 19.30.

 
 
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini climbing in northwestern Spain - Ep. II  Facebook
 

Check the first video of this series here.

 
 
Live streaming tonight 19.30 from Briancon  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe third stage of the Lead World Cup starts today in Briancon, from where the semifinal will be live-streamed between 19.30 and 22.30.

Interesting is that three of the Top-6 ranked male boulderers will participate: Sean McColl from Canada and Alex Rubtsov with Rustam Gelmanov from Russia. (c) Eddie Fowke from The Circuit
On Sunday, the female finals start at 19.30 followed by the male at 21.00.

 
 
Tea with Elmarie 8A (+) by Nóra Király  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNóra Király who did her first 7C+ this spring, has had a very good month in Rocklands, where she has done two 8A's and Tea with Elmarie 8A (+). "A huge battle with myself. I won. :)" In the great picture by Tibor Varga, the Hungarian is doing Slash and Burn 7B.

 
 
8B by Megan Mascarenas (18) again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMegan Mascarenas, who won the last Boulder World Cup, has done her second 8B, Mars Block 3 in Pikes Peak. "Hands down the best line on Pikes Peak! the movement and rock have so much power and flow! Today was awesome!"

Here is a video of Pikes Peak, where you boulder mainly above 3 000 meters.

 
 
8B by Karoline Sinnhuber again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber has done her third 8B, Skiroute project in Silvretta. (c) Andi Aufschnaiter
One week ago she returned from Rocklands, where she did six Boulders graded 8A to 8B. We asked her for some comments.

"I was in Rocklands two years ago and was pretty surprised how easy i could climb the boulders, which were unclimbable 2 years ago. Thank god training payed off"

 
 
Karo Sinnhuber up to 8B in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Karo Sinnhuber is having a great year including being #5 in World Cup in China. Here is her great video from her recent trip to Rocklands.

Karo Sinnhuber in Rocklands from Karoline Sinnhuber on Vimeo.

 
 
Alex Megos presents the new Tenaya shoe  Facebook
 

 
 
8B flash by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov is having some great days in Rocklands, having done one 8B+ and five 8B's including the flash of Quintessential. "Small sharp crimps and coordinational dyno."

 
 
9a revenge for Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, who was #2 in Chamonix and #9 in Villars, has done Condé de choc in Entraygues. "Nice revenge after disappointing 9th place in World Cup. 3rd pre clipped for me too."

The start has been graded as 8A+ and Adam Ondra has actually said that clipping the third quickdraw is the crux. If you miss it, you could even hit the ground. In the 8a Practice & Ethics we give a yellow card for "Two or three pre-clipped if it is for safety reason". Until like 15 years ago, climbing with three pre-clipped quickdraws would not count as a valid ascent but nowadays it is getting more common. It is great of Stefano to have gone public and it would be interesting to know the number of pre-clipped quickdraws by Tony Lamiche back in 2006. In the picture of Tony we can see that the third bolt is high above the second.

 
 
Seb Bouin does Thor's Hammer, which goes down to 9a  (13) Facebook
 

Fanatic Climbing reports that Seb Bouin, who has done five routes 9a to 9b last year, has done Thor's Hammer in Flatanger, which was put up by Adam Ondra as a 9a+ and which has seen many repeats lately. Seb started working on the route last year and this year it took him five days to fight bad conditions and wet holds. He was also given a new sequence at one of the cruxes which makes the route 9a according to Adam and Seb.

 
 
Garnbret & McColl win in Villars  (13) Facebook
 

The second stage of the Lead World Cup in Villars was as great as the first in Chamonix. Sean McColl got the highest in the final, into which almost all big names failed to qualify. The Canadian was also the only participant also competing in Speed, where he was second last. Among the female, last out Janja Garnbret took her second in a row victory and in fact, she waved to the spectators preparing for the move on which four girls had failed. More info to come. It should also be noted that this was possibly the best live streaming ever with continuous updates of live results and several interviews with the athletes directly after they had climbed.

 
 
World Cup live streaming on Saturday  Facebook
 

The second Lead World Cup takes place in Villars in Switzerland and there will be live streaming on Saturday: 10.00 - 12.30 Semi and 20.00 Finals. Complete results

 
 
Safety first on Outdoors  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDuring Outdoors trades in Friedrichshafen, safety was in focus with the new Grigri from Petzl and the Revo from Wild Country beside some safer carabiners from several producers and more helmets. 8a will be sent products to test soon. We were very impressed with them all. We will present videos during the next few days.

Petzl did also inform us that they have asked Petzl USA to check exactly what went wrong when Ashima fell to the ground from 14 meters.

Other than that, more indoor focus with many hold manufacturers etc and an augumented climbing wall where boulder problems are lighted up via a projector connected to a computer with endless possibilities.

 
 
Dino Lagni (47) flashes an 8c  Facebook
 

Planet Mountain reports that Bernardino Lagni, the world champion from 1999 who did his first 9a being 43 years old, has flashed Mantieni la calma 8c in Ai Piccoli.

"I happened to meet Omar, who was trying the route, and he explained all the moves. I didn’t set off with the idea of flashing it, but with a little luck and driven on by the cheers of those below me… I clipped the anchor!"

 
 
Sharma and Becan projecting 9a MP episode #3  Facebook
 

Looking at the video, remember that Chris bolted it ground up during some months four years ago, mainly with hooks!

 
 
Sharma and Usobiaga trying something new  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga, the world's best overall Lead competitor between 2006 to 2010, when he was injured in a traffic accident, has become the first trainer of Chris Sharma. Patxi says it was his hard training that made him become the world champion and it is very interesting that he did not go for the common full periodization training. Instead he combined campus, bouldering and endurance on the same day and this is also how he works with Sharma and Ondra.

- Everyone is different and it is about motivation and having fun. There is nothing wrong with a strict robot training as long as you find it fun and you learn from it. Ondra and Sharma have a different approach but basically I give them a scheme with similar excercises to follow. The PUC concept always combine different challenges. Even while focusing on endurance, we need to do boulder or campus to keep it fun and more motivating.

Both Chris and Adam are famous for becoming the best in the world just by climbing rather than train in a systematic approach. Chris says he was curious to try out something new and as he started up his gym and has just become a father, it was the perfect timing.

- It is interesting, fun and motivating to try something new. I could continue going to Oliana putting up a new 9b or even harder but that would be doing the same over again. Now my focus is to set up a new 9a multi-pitch in amazing settings with Klemen Becan. I plan to continue to follow the PUC training until there are better conditions for our project.

 
 
Domen Skofic from Slovenia wins in Chamonix  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Skofic won in great style in Chamonix continuing his nice progress trend. As a junior, he was the best in the world and in the last three World Cups the 22-year-old has been improving every year being 9 - 5 - 4. Domen is also the #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Domen Skofic SLO 51
2. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA 48+
3. Jakob Schubert 48
4. Gauthier Supper FRA 48
5. Roman Desgranges FRA 47
Complete results

 
 
Janja Garnbret (17) from Slovenia takes her first WC victory  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret has just taken her first World Cup victory by winning all rounds in Chamonix including cruising the final shaking her way to the top. Last year, she was 2 - 2 - 3 in her debut season. Also Anak Verhoeven had a big margin in the final but she was beaten on countback.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO Top
2. Anak Verhoeven BEL Top
3. Jain Kim KOR 49+
4. Magdalena Röck AUT 43+
5. Yuja Kobayashi JPN 33+
Complete results

 
Rafa J. García

Papa ven en tren (7a+),
Salinas
 
Eduard Vendrell

Shere Khan, 7c/+. La Se
lva, Camarasa.
 
Klaus Haaken

Basti clean onsight in
Le Mitard, 8-.
 
Unai Santa Kruz

Ineschakra 7b, Albarrac
ín
 
Roberto López

Asturias o trabajas? 8b
+, Sella
 
Josh Greaves

Faberge 7c, Fernkloof
 
Marina Inoue

Better Eat Your Wheatie
s 7b+, Hueco Tanks
 
David Aran

Tierra Media, Albarraci
n
 
Loic Zehani

La fracture sociale, 8b
+(Flash) , spot secret
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

The Hatchling (8A/V11)
Rocklands
 
Climb in Kymi

Antonis Anyfantakis enj
oying the onsight of 'H
ippocles', Katavolo cra
g, Kymi
 
Sebastián Aceves

Tizoc 8a+, Mineral del
Chico
 
Klaus Haaken

The Sladinator climbing
Spirit 8A+. More on: f
acebook.de/Padpilger
 
Kamil Mucha

Margarita 6c, Kalymnos
 
Araz Rasaee

Seven Dreams 7c, Darban
d
 
Roberto López

El algodón no engaña 8a
, Sella
 
Markus Hofer

cave man, Schalders
 
Vladimír Calda

Chopman 8A, Korzár, New
Project
 
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen

The Big Island 8c, Font
ainebleau
 
Andoni Esparta

White Zombie 8c, Baltzo
la
 
Margo Hayes

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Claudia Vanessa Moser

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Pol Costa

Cliqui-Claca (8b+) Cald
ers,Spain
 
Rupprich pati

prince of darkness, unt
erwelt, pitztal
 
Marcel Reimann

Duel dans la Lune 6c, F
ontainebleau
 
Search & Add Ascents
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Jörg Stiefelreiter - Little Bastard 7b+, Hampi, India, during the first ascent
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Childcare in Kalymnos  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMonster Cafe does baby sitting while you are climbing on Kalymnos. They charge Euro 7 per hour for the first child and Euro 5 for the sibling.
 
Alex Megos doing Hubble 8c+ (9a)  Facebook
 
IFSC needs better commentating  (5) Facebook
This year the live streaming has been better than ever, with great camera work and nice interviews. However, it is not OK that the commentator sometimes misled the audience by giving wrong results or could not directly say that Domen Skofic won, even if it was very clear for any climber with competition experience. On the other hand, unless a non-experienced commentator can understand who is in the lead etc, IFSC should work on live scoring in addition to marking at least some holds with a score.

It is also very hard to understand why before Jain Kim started he did not explain to the audience that time will be decisive about the winner if she got identical results as Janja Garnbret. To give the audience split time to get a feeling who was the faster climber would have increased the excitement.

I am afraid it has been like this since the World Cup live streaming start and it is sad that IFSC does not demand at least a co-commentator that could provide us with correct facts and updated results. Probably the best solution would be to have one of the route setters as a co-commentator.
 
Hades 9a by Angy Eiter  Facebook
 
Shock absorption heal from Boreal  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDuring Outdoor in Friedrichshafen, Boreal presented a patented shock absorption heal system which will be used in their Joker shoe. This sounds interesting as it is quite common to get an injury in your heal after falling in Bouldering or hitting the wall hard when falling on a route. 8a will receive some samples to test this autumn.

"One of the major changes has been to our Heel Fit System, a cushioned layer beneath the heel for improved shock absorption. This year, a modified outsole incorporates a special cavity beneath the heel, preventing excessive compression of the EVA layer. This provides improved cushioning while maintaining excellent fit inside the shoe."
 
MP classic by Mammut - Supertramp  Facebook
 
9th 8A by Oriane Bertone (11)  Facebook
 
Augmented computer game climbing: The future!  Facebook
 
Pics wanted from Cresciano, Chironico and Gottardo  Facebook
Vertical-Life is collaborating with local developers, climbing guide authors and climbers from all over the world for the development of a worldwide digital climbing guide.

Send us your best pictures of bouldering in Cresciano, Chironico and Passo del Gottardo with information on the sector, name of the boulder, grade, photographer and climber. The best pictures will appear in the Vertical-Life app guide. You can count on our gratefulness: for the chosen pictures, we give away the corresponding topos of the area in the Vertical-Life App.
Please send your photos to: content@vertical-life.info
 
Award winners on Outdoors: La Sportiva and Edelrid  Facebook
Click to Enlarge Picture"Mythos Eco is the re-edition of the famous Mythos climbing shoe of the 80s, made with eco-friendly materials to minimize the environmental impact. The versatile shoe par excellence, it is suitable for long routes and to use on long walls thanks to the exceptional comfort fit. Almost all of the components (95%) used come from recycled materials and contribute to a reduced environmental impact. The La Sportiva Eco-Rubber outsole is obtained by recycling the rubber used in the production process at La Sportiva. Performance on holds and duration are equal to a standard compound but with reduced environmental impact."

Edelrid also won awards for their harness of 80 grams and a balanced crash pad made of polystyrene balls in the bottom, which works very well even on bad landing zones.
 
FrictionLabs Launches Websites for European Rock Climbers  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIt’s now easier and less expensive for climbers across Europe to get their hands on FrictionLabs chalk — the cleanest and highest purity chalk anywhere.

The Denver, Colorado-based company has launched seven e-commerce websites for climbers in Austria, France, Germany, Italy, Sweden, Spain, and the UK to purchase its products online with fulfillment directly from Europe, eliminating high shipping costs and enhancing delivery reliability.
 
Bulletproof carabiner from Edelrid  Facebook
 
Pirmin Bertle's 9b story  Facebook
A little about Pirmin Bertle, the very best unknown climber in the world who has made an 8C+ FA Boulder. Here is the amazing story of him doing a 9b FA.

The art of mixing chromosomes - Meiose, 9b, Charmey, Switzerland from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

 
Brand-new Yosemite Guide and App  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSome of the most legendary Yosemite climbs are now joined in the new guidebook Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley and also available in the Vertical-Life climbing app. The famous Yosemite Valley is probably a must in a serious climber’s career: no other area offers such a high number of easy accessible towering routes on super solid granite. The new climbing guide is the result of intensive work carried out by E. Sloan, L. Barth, C. Bedinghaus and M. Jakubowski.

It contains topos of famous routes such as the Nose, the Dawn Wall, Separate Reality and Northwest Face. Climbers can buy the new guide including a free app code, which means that all the topos will be available also for your smartphone – paperwork was yesterday! You can download all the topos beforehand, as cellphone service is a scarce resource in the valley. It is the first guide outside Europe to be published in the Vertical-Life climbing app, which so far covers some of the most important European climbing areas.
Find out for yourself: Vertical Life App
 
Safety is #1 - The community needs to know why Shiraishi fell to the ground  (14) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTen years ago, I confronted some of the very best and most famous climbers in the world because they were using the GriGri in a dangerous way. They did not use the velat loop for their screw carabiners, instead it was placed where you tid in twisting the Grigri 90 degrees. This made it harder for the Grigri to lock, and actually during that time several bad injuries were reported.

8a warned and explained why a twisted Grigri did not work properly in several articles. We also suggested a new Grigri method, which Petzl copied later. Four years ago, I confronted Petzl that their GriGri video that had been shown 500 000 times recommended a dangerous method. Finally Petzl took it out.

Later Petzl started to recommend a new Grigri technique but the problem is that only some 10% of climbers use it today and there are very few experienced climbers among them.

For me checking safety is like a disease and actually last week I witnessed the worst safety situation ever. A 40-year-old at 80 kg made her 12 year old daughter at 30 kg belay him leading. As I saw she was secured to the ground and they were using a Grigri I did not confront him until he was safely at the ground, although I had previously asked if they wanted some assistance. Actually, it turned out that the daughter was lead belaying for the first time and that was why the father screamed instructions. Furthermore, he had secured her to the ground with two meter slack. Of course, it is always very unpleasant to confront somebody about safety but this is something the whole community needs to take more responsibility about.

Safety is #1 and do not forget the tragic loss of Tito Traverso some years ago. My point is that companies, athletes and the whole community must give higher priority to look over the shoulder and confront climbers who are not doing it right.

Regarding the 14 meter ground fall for Ashima Shiraishi, I hope Petzl and the gym will make an investigation how her father could have made such a mistake as we all can learn from it. For me it seems impossible that a very experienced belayer can drop a 40 kg climber to the ground from 14 meters, if he was doing everything right. I mean, it seems quite unlikely that this was the first time he made that mistake out of those several thousands of times he has belayed her.

Climbing is growing, especially among the kids, and sooner or later all parents will know that the best female climber and the potential Olympic winner in just four years was dropped to the ground by her very experienced father. We cannot just pretend that nothing has happend and keep climbing. Just imagine Ashima being dropped to the ground from 15 meters outdoors, perhaps hitting a rock.
 


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