Patxi Usobiaga profile presentation  (1) Facebook
 



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8a.nu and Vertical-Life are hiring!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life is about to redesign and improve the 8a.nu platform. Are you a software engineer and would like to work together with a highly motivated team? Please send your application to
office@vertical-life.info.

Required skills:
- Object oriented programming
- Experience with relational databases
- Basic web development skills (CSS, Javascript, DHTML, HTML)

Desired skill:
- C# / ASP.NET
- Ruby / Ruby on Rails



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Garnbret and Yushiyuki most impressive in China  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMost of the best competition climbers did take one more trip to China to finish of the season. Janja Garnbret won in Lead, climbing faster than Jessica Pilz, who also topped both rounds. In bouldering, Miho Nonaka won and and Garnbret was second. Miho was also the fastest among the Combined competitors with 10.30 and Janja Garnbret did her debut with 13.60. Overall, Janja would have won the Combined if such multiplication would have been done.

Among the male, Jakob Schubert got one more victory and in bouldering Jongwon Chon did also win again. When it comes to Speed, Jan Hojer was superior among the Combined guys by being #11 which also was his results in Lead. In Boulder he was #4. The best Combined male result was however achieved by Ogata Yushiyuki (19), who was #3 and #3 and #17, third last, in Speed. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke



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Patxi Usobiaga is #4 in the 8a ranking game  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga, one of the best competition climbers in the history, has updated his scorecard and goes to #4 in the ranking game. In total the 37 year old has recorded 20 routes 9a and harder. Soon to come a follow up interview from his recent 9a+/b personal best. (c) Ignacio Sandoval Buron



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Two 8C's in Font by Ryohei Kameyama  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama has had an extraordinary three weeks trip to Fontainebleau where he did two 8C's The Big Island (c) Takuya Nakamura and Jour de chasse as well as three 8B+'. Interestingly, the 20 year old Japanese have done three Boulder World Cups with the best result #43! We will follow up with comments.



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Who is your female climbing hero?  (8) Facebook
 


 
 
Who is your male climbing hero?  (6) Facebook
 


 
 
Two 9a's by Adam Ondra  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done another two 9a's, the FA of Ci Sta in Arco and Mongo in Schleier Wasserfall. In the picture by Roland Hemetzberger you can see it was done in snowy conditions.

Overall, the 24 year old has now recorded 149 routes 9a to 9c in his scorecard that has been opened 2.1 million times. Alex has done 74 routes 9a and harder and is runner up on this list ahead of Ramon Julian Puigblanque (66) and Dani Andrada (65).

 
 
Digital topo for Taragona (Siurana, Margalef etc.)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life Climbing App recently integrated the Tarragona Climbs guidebook by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada in its topo collection. This means that there is now a digital version of the famous climbing guide, which presents some of the major crags of Catalonia, among others Siurana and Margalef.

Tarragona is known to be a treasure trove for sport climbers and one of the most important sport climbing destinations in Europe. A very active climbing community has turned the area into a true climbing mekka for pros and for amateurs alike. The second edition of the guidebook by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada contains more than 100 crags, which represent only part of the huge range of available sectors. However, the authors have taken their choice carefully and made sure to present the most worthwile areas.

The digital guidebook is now available in the Vertical-Life App, where climbers can purchased the full guidebook or smaller chapters. The printed guide will be out by the end of November.

 
 
Shauna Coxsey & Leah Crane in California  Facebook
 

 
 
Anna Stöhr Living Legend Presentation  Facebook
 

 
 
Kranj World Cup sum up  Facebook
 

 
 
Record big IFSC competition season 2018  (1) Facebook
 

Based on the IFSC provisional calendar 2018 it seems there will be a record number of comps during 2018. In total the senior calendar includes seven Lead and Boulder World Cups plus the World Champion. For the juniors, there will be a total of ten Euro Youth Cups in Lead and Boulder, a World Champion and also Olympic Games.

At the same time there are more comps then ever, they are spread out more meaning more travel. For the guys focusing on Tokyo 2020, the schedule is so hectic that it will almost not be possible to do all Boulder and Lead events, without loosing some valuable training time.

Boulder
13/4 Meiringen - Switzerland
21/4 Moscow - Russia (Speed)
5/5 Chongqing - China (S)
12/5 Taian - China (S)
2/6 Tokyo - Japan
8/6 Vail - USA
18/8 Munich - Germany

Lead
6/7 Villars - Switzerland (S)
12/7 Chamonix - France (S)
20/7 Briancon - France
27/7 Arco - Italy (S)
29/9 Kranj - Slovenia
20/10 Wujiang - China (S)
27/10 Xiamen - China (S)

World Championships/Games
6-16/9 Innsbruck - Austria
7-19/7 Central Saanich - Canada: Youth
6-18/10 Buenos Aires - Argentina: Youth A

 
 
Moffatt and Klingler Mental Training  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Is it counterproductive to train Speed before 2020?  (43) Facebook
 

Although nobody agreed on the Combination format in the Olympics, many of the best have said they will go for it or have started trying the other disciplines. However, with the multiplication format it might be counter-productive to seriously train Speed before the qualifications are over.

Most likely, some 20 Speed specialist will try it out, as if you win the Speed and get lucky in Boulder, you just might make it to Tokyo. This means that the very best Speed climber, out of the regular guys focusing on Lead and Boulder, can only get #21 in Speed. On the other hand, training Speed and especially the leg muscles, will most certainly have some negative aspects on Boulder and especially Lead performance.

Here is the math showing that it might be counter-productive to seriously train Speed before the qualifications is over. The base of the analysis is that you drop (at least) one position in Lead and Boulder if you seriously train Speed.

21 (Speed) * 3 * 3 = 189, looses to 47 * 2 * 2 = 188
21 (Speed) * 2 * 5 = 210, looses to 52 * 1 * 4 = 208

Training Speed seriously to become #21 in the World Champion qualification should mean at least 5 hours a week. This will make you gain at least 2 - 4 kilos at the same time you will have less time for training Lead and Boulder as well as getting outdoors. In other words, the guys investing in serious Speed training will loose much more than just one position. This means that the "ordinary" results in the World Cup also will deteriorate and if you can not evolve yourself into an Olympic robot, your mental health and strength will be poor when the qualification starts.

In fact, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra just might have greater chances to win the golds by totally skipping any serious Speed training what so ever. First they will enjoy and have fun winning all the World Cups as many of their competitors will be weaker both physically as well as mentally.

The twist of this counter-productive claim is that in Tokyo, where all the Speed specialists that eat Lead and Boulderers as breakfast, have failed to make it. The #21 Speed guy would finally get turn on his investment winning Speed in the first round where 20 competes. Any how, if Ondra walks the Speed track in 20 seconds and then win Boulder and Speed, he will get an multiplicative score of 6 points. Even if the Speed winner remarkably gets #2 and #3 in Lead and Boulder, he is runner up overall.

1 (Speed) * 2 * 3 = 6, looses to 6 * 1 * 1 = 6 on count back

 
 
9b FA by Adam Ondra in Arco  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra publishes on his Instagram a new FA in Arco, One Slap 9b. First he climbed Stefano Ghisolfi's One Punch (9a+ suggested by him and more in the 9a+/9b range for Ondra) and then he added with local Mauro Mabboni one more bolt to make a harder route.

"After a while, I got to experience the moment when conditions are perfect, my mind is fully aware of it, that influence my state of mind, I climb free and confident, and I have the feeling of ease, flow and joy.
First, I ticked off One Punch in Arco, a great first ascent from @steghiso. He gave it 9a+, but 9a+/b is probably closer to reality. It took me a few days over the last months.
Then we added one more bolt and I made a first ascent of a harder start, calling it One Slap 9b. What a day!"

 
 
Schubert cheering up the crowd before topping out in Kranj  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAmazing moment in Kranj captured by the one and only Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing. Imagine how millions of spectators will get amazed by our sport in Tokyo when climbers cooperate together in isolation and with the crowd fighting for the gold. Do not miss the great interview, starting 55.45 where a smiling Jakob says it is about getting rid of the pressure and just enjoy what you are doing. Mental training at it's best to listen to Jakob!

 
 
Lead overall 2017  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Romain Desgranges 477 - Janja Garnbret 665
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 413 - Jain Kim 525
3. Keiichiro Korenaga 373 - Anak Verhoeven 444
4. Domen Skofic 325 - Jessica Pilz 374
5. Marcello Bombardi 289 - Julia Chanourdie 362
6. Jakob Schubert 265 - Mina Markovic 304
Complete results

 
 
Perfect show ends the 2017 season  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret put on yet another amazing show winning her ninth World Cup victory in 2017 in Kranj. In total, she won six Lead World Cups and in the remaining two she was third. Jain Kim was second and secured her second position also overall. In total, she was Top-4 in all but one event. Molly Thompson-Smith set a new personal best and she is the without any doubt the biggest surprise on the female scene in 2017. Last year she was mainly doing Youth comps but never better than #7. Including in her preparation for Kranj, she did her first 8b+ in Raven Tor this week! (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

1. Jakob Schubert AUT - Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Alex Megos GER - Jain Kim KOR
3. Dmitrii Fakiroanov RUS - Molly Thompson-Smith GBR

Interesting Jakob, who has just done three Lead WCs in 2017, 1 - 3 - 1, explained that part of his success is that he has done less comps and did not feel any pressure. Further more he said he does not follow a strict training schedule. The same goes, in fact, also for the runner-up Megos who prior to Kranj, climbed eight days in a row and did just have time for one gym sessions before Kranj. For Dmitrii it was his first World Cup in 2017.

It should also be mentioned that the commentating with the experience competitions climbers did a great job including great interviews. Complete results

 
 
Kranj Final starts 17.00  Facebook
 

 
Peter Doubell

Rocklands
 
Antônio Sérgio Monteiro

Red label v6 no setor 1
do Oriente.
 
Matteo Humar

Falesia del Vauzo, Pali
nuro
 
Jason Kester

Peter Pan 7b+, Rocher d
u Mauvais Passage, Font
ainebleau
 
Roman Batsenko

Maja Rudka on her first
8b, Codigo Norte in Sa
nta Linya, Spain
 
Markus Adamaszek

Zig zag, Fb 7a bloc, Al
barracín
 
Pedro Nicoloso

TNF Master de Boulder 2
017
 
Yau Ka chun

8b Local Spirits, Centr
al Crags HONG KONG
 
Matteo calledda

Tony Orrù - Cristal Wav
es 7a, Ulassai
 
Gus Carter

Great White 7a+/V7, Joe
's Valley
 
Dave Ayton

Carbide 7A, Fairhead
 
Peter Sebio

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
David Vicente

"EL PROCESO" 40m 8a. Fo
z de Zafrané, ZARAGOZA.
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

Herculane - Surplomba
 
Vladimir arnaoudov

Vladimir Arnaoudov, Gue
re d'usure, Claret
 
Leo Skinner

Cromlech Roof Crack 7A+
/V7 at Cromlech boulder
s, north wales
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+, Geyik Bay
iri
 
Camilla Moroni

Première 7c+, Seynes
 
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Gus Carter - Great White 7a+/V7, Joe's Valley
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Nice beta on The Dagger 8B (+)  Facebook
 
The 6a to 9c history and the female history  (1) Facebook
Emontana has put together long article including all details how the climbing grades have eveloved from 6a to 9c.

At the same time Climbing has put together a list for female achievements since 1799.
 
Increase Bouldering finalist to 8 or even 12 participants  (6) Facebook
8a has suggested a new bouldering format to IFSC allowing more finalists. The Norweigian Sports manager and National coach Reino Horak, hope to see 12 finalists next year on their national competitions.

- 12 finalists mean that double as many get the opportunity to challenge themselves and have fun in the final. It also means a bigger interest to travel to a competition as many more will hope to be able to do two rounds. It is a waste of route setters time to just allow six guys in the final and further more, the more finalists, the greater chance for tied score and drama on the last boulder. I think all coaches and athletes would agree that more finalists would be more fun.

The simple solution for increasing the # of finalists is simple to make three participants rotate on the first three boulders. After a short break, the Top-6 athletes will make it into the "super final", starting in reversed order. This means an increasing drama where everyone will exactly know what the last guy out needs to do to get the best overall score. When it comes to competition time, the rotating format, including 8 or 9 finalist, will save around 20 minutes. Also though having 12 finalist will not increase the competition time.

8a has also suggested a new point scoring system that will be presented in a few days.
 
La Sportiva Female Legends 25/11  Facebook
La Sportiva Legends Only will take place for the seventh year in a row in Klättercentret in Stockholm 25/11 and it will be a live-streaming. The line up is impressive as always. Shauna Coxsey, Petra Klingler, Staša Gejo, Katja Kadić, Fanny Gibert and Mélissa Le Nevé.
 
Boreal Mutant 2018  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the last months in 8a we have been testing the excelent Boreal Mutant. This well designed shoe (as many of Boreal) is extremly precise in many of the rock types we have tested on. The shoe is leather made and adjusts with one velcro strap. They're also made in Spain. (c)Talo Martín - Muérdago Films

It is very interesting the LTS (lateral torsion system) that avoids the shoe to lose the shape, spreading the tension over the sides and keeping the comfort. The covering for the toes is made with Friction Skin that makes the toe-hooking very comfy and accurate. The midsole works super good on edges feeling the holds way bigger.

The heel is completly filled with no gaps, wich makes it easy to use even in small crimps despite being rounded. The sticky 4mm Boreal Zenith rubber completes this sending pack for your proyects.
 
Toru Nakajima exploring his lifestyle  Facebook
 
Paul Robinson - Bügeleisen 8B+  Facebook
 
Marcel Remy (94) climbs 450 m and flies tandem down  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMammut has the great story from when Marcel Remy, born 1923, climbed the 450 meter Miroir de l'Argentine in Western Switzerland.

Talking to his son, Claude, one of the most dedicated bolters in the world, he said that the 5b+ grade is a super sand bag. In reality comparing to modern sport climbing it is in fact much harder.

 
Season diagram - Leonidio  (10) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFor every of the 5 000 crags in the 8a data base, you can find a season diagram that can help you to find the best time of the year to visit a specific crag. The upper diagram is from Leonidio which just might have the biggest proportion of winter ascents. Below you have Kalymnos diagram, which shows a stronger concentration during late spring and autumn.
 
Leonidio Climbing Festival 2017  Facebook
 


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