First 8C+ for Dave Graham  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham, one of the best guys out there the last 15 years, comes with the amazing news on FB that he has done his first 8C+. (c) Bearcam

"WOW!!! Elated to make the 2nd ascent of @dawoods89 new rig Creature From the Black Lagoon yesterday up in Upper Chaos!!! After around 16 days of effort since the spring, I managed to figure out the incredibly subtle change to my sequence which opened the gateway for the send!! After so many days of regression and frustrating conditions, late night pondering, hundreds of failed ideas, the solution had been in front of me the entire time. A crazy arm-torque turned stand-up yoga-type movement was the enabling addition in my sequence, allowing me to engage the undercling I battled with for so long properly, and achieve the body position I needed to keep it moving forward."

"Reality set in, it was time to NOT punt, the dreaded possibility of failure existed, but soon enough the sketchiest moves were finished, I was in a knee bar, upside down, the switch was flipped, sport climbing mode, breathing, nervous, toe hook, SLAB, SUMMIT!!! Huge thanks to @dawoods89 and @giuliano_cameroni for rollin up there with me so many times and supporting my struggles on what is probably the hardest thing I have ever climbed! This climb suits me, but still pushed me farther than anything I have ever done that is graded 8C. Time will tell, but 8C+ seems completely logical. Photos and video coming soon up at @island_io

Hubble 8c+ (9a) by William Bosi (18)  Facebook

UKC reports that William Bosi has done the seventh ascent of Ben Moon's Hubble from 1990. Moon suggested 8c+ and although none of the repeaters have suggested an upgrade some have made this speculation. Interesting is that UKC does not mention this but just state that Hubble is a 9a, meaning it being the first route of this grade in the world.

Lucifer 8c+ by Michaela Kiersch  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch has done her second 8c+ in Red River Gorge in 2016, Lucifer. (c) Andy Wickstrom

"Sooo psyched!!!! Surprise send on one of my projects this weekend, Lucifer. It's so rewarding to know that my hustlin is paying off. I will be the first to admit that juggling school, work, and climbing has been overwhelming and challenging this year. But education is something I value deeply and I take pride in knowing that I can succeed in climbing and in school. After stuffing my face with and driving the looooong 7 hours home I snuck in some studying for this 8am exam that I'm about to take. Wish me luck!

8B by Nicolai Užžnik (15)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolai Užžnik has done his first 8B, Wrestling with an Alligator in Malatal. What is interesting, he found a new beta so instead of doing the dyno and taking the swing, he just kept crimping.

"I sent the boulder in my first session in Maltatal after more than 2 months without climbing because of a finger injury. I did not expect to climb it that fast because the last few holds where completely wet, so I'm really happy about that. This season didn't worked as I wanted it, due to my injury where I missed both boulder and lead European Youth Championships and now also the World Youth Championships in China.

Woods talks about his 9A project this spring  Facebook

Hukkataival's 9A as a push to add a + to some 8C's  (2) Facebook

It is great that Nalle Hukkataival did not go for a slash grade and instead marked himself one grade above everyone. The first 8Cs were suggested some 15 years ago and even if at least a dozen 8c+s have been put forward, original 8C+s have never been confirmed, instead all have been down graded.

In fact, Nalle Hukkataival has always been said to be one of the guys who keep the grades very hard and that you should use the lower grade when in doubt. It is interesting that he actually changed his mind since his grade article in 2010 which was part of the reason why we shifted from grade inflation to deflation.

"Last June I did the first ascent of Livin' Large in South Africa. It is by far the hardest boulder I've climbed so far, a lot harder than any 8C that I have climbed in the past. Does that mean that it is 8C+? Maybe, just maybe. Does that mean that I should grade it 8C+? I don't think so. Why do we always have to shoot high first and then wait for the downgrade. Why is it never the other way around? I graded it 8C because I feel certain that it is at least 8C. If other people feel like it's harder, they can upgrade it. Why do people always choose the egotistical approach to these things instead of "playing it safe"?

Although Hukkataival has never given an 8C+ grade for any of his Boulders, he suggested 9A for his Burden of Dreams. This must mean that he has taken into account the amount of time this project has taken and how much stronger he thinks he is now compared to last year. Furthermore, he must feel that the Boulder is very much his style.

Possibly, some guys will try Burden of Dreams and think it is just one grade harder compared to some sandbagged 8Cs. Possibly they could use Hukkataival's 9A as the new standard and upgrade some of the 8Cs that deserve it. It is also interesting that Hukkataivals's 9A is much shorter then most of the 8C and 8C+ problems in the world, which are often more endurance based.

Hukkataival opens the world's first 9A  (16) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNalle Hukkataival, who has never suggested 8C+ for a Boulder he has done, comes on Facebook with the amazing news that he has done the FA of Burden of Dreams 9A.

"Yesterday I had another session on the Lappnor project. The routine that goes into it after all this time isn’t all that exciting; the same warm up, driving an hour on the same road, brushing the all too familiar holds, re-warming up, systematically trying the same sequences in the same order. Some days you feel strong and confident and get totally shut down. Other days you’re not feeling a 100 percent and it could be the best session you’ve had. All logic seems to have gone out the window a long time ago.

Many sessions I wish I could forget. Can’t do a move I’ve done countless of times before. Last highpoint was a year ago. Weeks and months turned into years of uncertainty and self-doubt. Trying to keep that little spark of hope in the back of your mind alive.

Walking up to the boulder with all the positivity I can muster, I still can’t ignore what the boulder has become to represent; failure of varying degrees.

Sitting under the boulder I can feel the weight of it. Pulling on always feels like a déjà vu, like the thousands of times before. It always starts the same way and ends the same way. Except this time. This time was different.
Snap to reality, I’m hanging on the lip of the boulder, disoriented, heart racing. Contain the panic. I’m on top of the boulder trying to grasp how I got there. Lots of feelings coinciding; surprise, relief, happiness, confusion. As reality hits that quickly turns into ecstatic happiness with a dash of disbelief.

Waking up today I can’t help but look at the world with different eyes. Having achieved the first ascent of Burden of Dreams marks a new level in my climbing. With a handful of existing 8C+ boulders in the world, proposing 9A is the logical step.

Huge thanks to my friend Marko Siivinen for showing me the line! What a journey it’s been! Stay tuned for a film of the whole story with the boulder. It will be something extraordinary!

Alex Puccio back on track with an 8A flash  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who during the last two years has badly injured herself twice in Boulder World Cups (being forced to undergo a knee and a back surgery, respectively), is back on track with an 8A flash of Skull in Joe's Valley. "I'm just psyched to be getting back outside!!! Didn't expect to flash it. Worth taking the shoes off to cross the river. "

In 2014, Alex got the silver in the World Championship, and since then, in spite of the bad injuries, she has done 12 Boulders 8B and harder. Here you can find her story: The Comeback Queen. (c) Joel Zerr

Megos repeats Bock's manufactured 9a+  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos has done yet another 9a+ in Frankenjura, Markus Bock's "Becoming", meaning that he has done all the Top-5 hardest. He reports on Instagram that the route seems manufactured. "Well built that thing but the Sika doesn't seem of good quality, it crumbles..."

Please explain some more what you mean by "Well built"?
I wanted to say that the route is "well built" (sarcasm) cause normally you don't build routes outside. And then I wanted to point out that it's not even well done because the Sika crumbles.

It's built like a route in the gym almost. Just that they didn't use colored holds... Pick a stone from the ground and glue it onto the blank wall where there was nothing before.

I don't want to say exactly how many holds are chipped or glued. But it's definitely a few. At least a hand full in that route and then a few more in the route to the right of it and a few more to the route to the right of that.

Highlights from Xiamen  Facebook

Ghisolfi and Garnbret win in China  (4) Facebook

The sixth and second last stage of the Lead World Cup took place in Xiamen, China this weekend. The world champion, Janja Garnbret, took her fourth victory and so she has secured the overall title. Among the male, Stefano Ghisolfi won for the first time since his first victory in 2014. The overall leader, Domen Skofic, also from Slovenia, was just #9 meaning that also Jakob Schubert and Romain Desgranges are on the run for the 2016 title.

1. Stefano Ghisolfi ITA - Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Dmitrii Fakiryanov RUS - Anak Verhoeven BEL
3. Jakob Schubert AUT - Jain Kim KOR
4. Gauthier Supper FRA - Akiyo Noguchi JPN
5. Romain Desgranges FRA - Mina Markovic SLO

Ondra back on the ground after being almost at pitch #16  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has made fast progress on The Dawn Wall and this is his latest Instagram report.

"@kjorgeson giving me the jugging up master class the other day and as well as beta for the pitches. The third day up on the Dawn Wall I fixed the lines almost to the top of pitch 16 (dyno pitch). I checked the moves on the crux pitches and it looked definitely hard.

Beautiful, HARD, intimidating and motivating project. @tommycaldwell was a huge visionary to see this line in the middle of the blank wall."

On the Black Diamond FB Adam gives some more insight to his strategy.

"I would like to emphasize that I am not free climbing everything yet. The goal right now is only to go ground-up to the top, free-climbing and using a little bit of aid climbing, to fix the whole line with ropes and start working on the pitches properly to have them ready for the final free push later. So if the crux is around the protection, I just touch the holds to see how the sequence would be and continue. The first crux-pitch looked definitely super hard to free climb. Almost impossible. I will have to take a look at all these razorblades more closely."

More updates on  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureOur new Web Developer, Tieme Van Veen, has deployed some updates to our new responsive

New things:

1. Click Search and you will get a list nearby crags with distance to them and driving instructions.
2. Filter Crag Ticklist to find your best climbs (not mobile yet)
3. All news in a handy mobile format -"
4. Check your and friends' scorecards

Next up is making it possible to add ascents to your scorecard. The plan is to have most ready within a few months but keep the old website so you can choose between them.

La Sportiva on sale on EPIC TV SHOP  Facebook

EPIC TV shop has La Sportiva sales this week. Testarossa is offered at just Euro 109 with free shipping. This price is actually lower then what La Sportiva offers at their own Outlet.

Chris Sharma... back in business! "Joe Mama" 9a+  (1) Facebook

The Dawn Wall Ondra updates  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBlack Diamond comes with the latest Dawn Wall updates with some quotes from Adam Ondra. (c) Heinz Zak

“We started pretty late yesterday and the fact that we are very inexperienced was obvious right from the beginning—I’ve done a lot of jugging up in my life, but only sport climbing and always using one GriGri and one ascender. Bad technique resulted in being super slow and tired after having jugged up the first 7 pitches. It was 3:30 p.m. by that time, so I managed to get to the top of pitch 10 until it got dark.

It was quite intense, a lot of bold climbing again, especially on pitch 10, which is another horrendous layback with poor protection. A combination of aid climbing, French-freeing and fear got me to the top without ripping out any of my pieces of pro. I didn’t feel like going for more adventure in the dark, so we just fixed our ropes and I tried pitch 7, 8 and 10 (5.14a, .13d and .14a) on toprope with headlamp. These pitches are not only bold, but freaking hard too! Definitely no easy grades for these ones—Tommy and Kevin are tough guys! I tried the moves all over again to get some confidence and we got back to the camp by 12:30 at night. Big day for sure."

First 8c+ by Neil Gresham (45)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNeil Gresham, a well-known trainer for the last 20 years, has done his first 8c+, Sabotage in Malham. © Ian Parnell Photography

"I guess I've reached a peak in sport climbing in my mid forties because I didn't really do any sport climbing in my thirties - I was just going adventuring and doing trad, ice DWS, and so on. I pushed my sport climbing pretty hard in my early twenties but training methods and facilities were primitive back then and I used to get injured quite a lot. There were also way less routes to choose from back in the early 90s and most of the routes in the high F8s were short and powerful and didn't really suit me.

I've been pretty structured in terms of applying a very specific focus on my projects. Both Sabotage and Freakshow (my 8c at Kilnsey last year) had moves that I couldn't do, so I had to gain the specific strength for them (by doing replica blocs and working the same finger grips on a hangboard etc) and I also trained endurance at the same angle, style and intensity as the routes. As for 9a, it isn't a goal unless my next project at Kilnsey turns out to be 9a, in which case I will square up to it!"

Adam Ondra has reached pitch #10 on the Dawn Wall  (5) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureBlack Diamond reports that Adam Ondra has started his Dawn Wall challenge. "“First day on the big wall in Yosemite, and straight onto the Dawn Wall! Foolishness, lack of respect or boldness? Well, not necessarily any of it. The Dawn Wall just dries up quickly after the huge rain on Sunday. And it went all right. Definitely scary and adventurous. Tiny footholds and insecure climbing, smearing my feet onto glassy footholds of Yosemite granite and all that with poor protection by copperheads, peckers, tiny cams and occasional bolts.

I ripped some copperheads, took some falls but made it to the top of pitch 7 and fixed our ropes. Leading the pitches with all the fear definitely felt super hard, but once I had the rope from above, the moves felt OK. But grades on the Dawn Wall are definitely not overrated. Grecesat success for today and 5 pitches to go tomorrow to have our ropes fixed under the crux pitches.”

The picture is from Adam's Instagram showing him at the end of the 10th pitch during a night session.

First 9a by Mathieu Pauwels  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMathieu Pauwels has done his first 9a, Punt'X in Gorges du Loup. (c) Petr Blaha

- I try the myth in summer 2015. When I returned to Belgium I decided to train myself to make Punt'X. I train very well with my coach Muriel Sarkany during the 2015/2016 season and I returned to southern France early summer 2016. I stayed a certain time that summer but no success for me but got very good feelings in Punt'x! I decided to go and come back stronger in October. It worked because the beginning of my trip I makes my first 9a Punt'X !! A dream come true! Thanks to my super coach!

The Wideboyz on the 9a+ trad mono Crucifix project  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFive years ago, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker made the FA of Century Crack 8c after years of projecting and replica training. Last week they did the FA of the Millenium Arch Project, which is a 100 meter long roof crack. This was just a quick side project when waiting till their main goal dries up, the Crucifix 9a+ project, which they found after one months of searching.

- Just pacing out the top of the crack made you shiver with the sheer size of what lay beneath. The roof was around 180 foot in length. This was the very last cave on The Rim that we were checking out and we’d hit the absolute jackpot. All the abseiling, jumaring and legging it round the desert in the blistering sun for the last two weeks was worth it for this one.

Essentially we’d found a mother-ship of intertwining roof cracks running from left to right and weaving in and out of cave systems. Right in the centre was ‘The God Line’ that we’d been looking for. A full 180 foot, straight from the depths of the hollowed out cliffside piercing right through the centre of the cave and out to the lip. Strangely enough, it was also bisected by another crack which gave the appearance of a giant Crucifix in the ceiling and seemed to bring about a theological context to our subsequent days and thoughts on the line. The next question was, ‘is it climbable?’

The crux is broken down into the 5 Holy Hangs (and involves 7 very hard moves around these positions). The holds are almost exclusively mono finger locks in a roof. This wouldn't be a huge problem, except for the fact that the footholds are almost nothing. It feel like trying to campus monos in a front lever position. And that's not easy!!

Section 1 = 10m 8a+
Section 2 (main crux) = 5m 8B+
Section 3 (other easier cruxes) = 35m 8b

Lifelist - Saurwein and Verhoeven in Australia  Facebook

The Wideboyz do 100 the metres 8b+ crack  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTom Randall and Pete Whittaker, aka The Wideboyz, have done the Millennium Arch Project, which is a 100 meters 8b+ crack and they did it in one pitch.

"We had to break all the rules of normal trad climbing. As the pitch is so long and also near the start quite easy to hit the ground, you have a pretty massive rack. So we pre-placed the gear whilst dogging the route to make it like a sport route and also left a rope in place for the last 25m as our first rope wasn't long enough. It's not a sport route, it's not a trad route. It's a challenge

The other problem is that to get to the cave you have to access via rope and each time you lower off you also have to climb a pitch of easy climbing to get back to the belay! It's quite an adventurous big cave... Big walling for single pitch climbers.!

The 8b+ was actually just a side project as their big 9a+ trad project, The Crucifix was wet. Tomorrow we will present a progressive report :)

6th 8C by Ryuichi Murai  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his sixth 8C in the last 12 months and the seventh ascent of Asagimadara in Mizugaki. The 167 cm tall Japanese is the new 8a ranking leader.

"Finally I managed to climb "Asagimadara 8C" put up by Tokio Muroi for three days. Yesterday, I tried it for the first time in one year. I could remember my moves soon because Mizugaki is the best season now. I had attempted to deal with crux move (4th hold) by campusing so far. But I couldn't the move. Eventually, I could resolve by leaving right heel on start hold. Actually I wrote this move off by reason of short reach, when I touched Asagimadara at first. So I felt more surprised than happy!!

Loic (14) and Chris (42) Zehani do a 9a FA in Orgon  Facebook

Loic Zehani has done his second 9a FA, La Lessiveuse in Orgon and it was repeated by his father Chris (42) who gives us the story.

"It was a great moment to send the route the same day. For me, there was a lot of try because I have no more this level and I was oblige to do many session in my style of climb, stamina with a lot of little moves.

For Loic, I think it was just a lap. The route is located just behind "canal +" sector. There is 12 short routes (8 to 12meters) between 7a to 8c. La Lessiveuse begin by Supersonique a powerfull 8c and cross on the left by following the border of the little cave. In total it's 48 moves but the difficulty is concentrated in the 30 first moves."

8B-C FA by Fred Nicole (46) in Rocklands  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureFred Nicole, the leading boulderer some 20 years ago, has put up Chakija in Rocklands saying it is between 8B and 8C. Here his full story from Instagram.

"What a crazy week! The last climbing day in the #Rocklands I managed to climb this line on the beautiful orange wall just left of "Stalker" - I was looking at it more closely since my last visit there in May. It is a beautiful orange wall with quite a few strange moves, that took me a while to figure out. I named it "Chakijana", a Zulu storyteller tells it is a meercat, others a hero of their culture... I just liked the sound of it.

As for the grade it is difficult to say as I can imagine it sticks better with really cold conditions; it should be around 8b/c - time will tell! In the meantime I was back in Switzerland for a few days and I am now in China! I hope for a great winter bouldering season when I get back to Zurich!"

8th 8C FA by Dave Graham  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDave Graham, one of the leading climbers of the last 15 years, reports on Instagram that he has done an unexpected FA of Topaz 8C in RMPN/Wild Basin. The first 8C FA by Dave Graham was The Story of 2 Worlds, which has become one of the most famous Boulders in the world.

"This boulder is somehow long-winded; it begins with some strange technical footwork and a tedious set up for a punchy frontal divisive move to a pinch, the gateway to the last precarious sequence of foot moves and hand shifts and mini bumps. I had no clue I would end up on the top the try I actually climbed it, in a really rare rock climbing moment, tension and nerves through the final sequemce were toned down as each move I completed, I genuinely thought I was falling and about to slip off every move of the final sequence. AMAZING."

9a+ FA by Alex Megos in St Leger  Facebook

Fanatic Climbing has got some comments from Alex Megos after his FA of Supercrackinette 9a+ in St Leger.

"It took me 3 days and I think it's 9a+. About the sends in the East face, I did l'Enfumette but I think it's 8c+ (originally graded 9a by the man who did the first ascent Kevin Aglaé). Took me 4 tries. I did as well too "Concept Extension", 8c+."

8c DWS for Jernej Kruder and his Es Pontas challenge with Hojer  (2) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureJernej Kruder, one of the best all-rounders with his activity ranging from Bouldering comps to multi-pitches, comes with great news on Instagram. © Kerstin Helbach

"Baam! Yesterday I stucked the dyno once again :) but this time decided to finish in direct finish named Pontax 8c. @chris_sharma opened this line a year before he sent Es pontas, so it must be a second ascent after 11 years.
Luckily I feel more comfortable on dyno now, so I started working on original line. Together with @janhojer we're getting higher now and I think we have equal chances of success. So there is no battle for second ascent, cuz after 10 years, few days wouldn't make any difference. Let's hope the waves calm down and we can be back in the game.

Thor's Hammer 9a (+) by Magnus Midtbø  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMagnus Midtbø has done Thor's Hammer 9a (+) after some 15 days of work on the 55 metre long upside-down monster in Flatanger. Magnus bolted it in 2011 and then Adam Ondra got the 9a+ FA. Later an easier sequence was found and Magnus has decided to say it is a very hard 9a like Ondra and Seb Bouin. (c) Matthew Moore McMahon

"I went to Flatanger two times this summer for working on it. This trip I did it already on the fourth day. I still had the moves dialed from the summer and the friction was much better.

This winter I plan to travel to Spain several times. We are just about to open a new climbing center in Oslo and that will take some time.

What about competitions and the Olympics?
No plan but most probably I will compete some more but just not now. Olympics within four years is absolutely one alternative. Even if I am not a fan of the format I think it is a good start.

Pearson's 2nd Vlog - Jumping Out A Helicopter at 3 800 m  Facebook

Stefan Bednar

Opium 8a, Fontainebleau
Heiko Queitsch

"Claude Monet" fb 8a/8a
+ or 8a+ first ascent
-Frankenjura- Photo
: Frank Kretschmann
David Palanjyan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Claudia Vanessa Moser

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Stefan Scarperi

Gioia stand 8b, Varazze
Rupprich pati

secret spot, near imst
Leo Skinner

Peckitts Traverse 7C at
Biblins Cave
Sven Otto

Super Bosna 7a, Magic w
Michał Kwiatkowski

Super cantina marina 8a
, Chulilla
Markus Adamaszek

Liebe ohne Chance, 9 (7
c), Frankenjura
Mikołaj Nowotnik

Unendliche Geschichte 1
8a+, Magic wood
Andoni Esparta

White Zombie 8c, Baltzo
Mikhail Lyubimov

Bal 6a, Pesherka
Maciej Szuchta

Chuck Odette

Petri Dish / Moe's Vall
Ferran Cavallé

El cortayemas 7b, S'est
Dan Nelson

Evilution (to the lip)
7c+, Bishop
Robin Reusser

Not the best conditions
...send the boulder aft
er 1 hour raining. Very
nice one.
Viktor bauch

Mali Ivo Sit 7c+, Chemn
Ryuichi Murai

Utsusemi 8b, Hourai
Artem Galushko

The Story of Two Worlds
Pablo Gómez Ruiz

Mundello 8a, Moclin
Bonar McCallum

Samantha Li Working on
99 Heroin Balloons V9,
Hueco Tanks
Tom Burton

James Burton on 'Hang'n
Loose. DWS at The Bac
kside, Maui
Eduard Vendrell

Shere Khan, 7c/+. La Se
lva, Camarasa.
Search & Add Ascents
Stefan Bednar - Sofa Surfer 8a+, Magic wood
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Ondra makes proud effort to onsight the Nose with his father  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureBlack Diamond reports that Adam Ondra has tried to onsight The Nose with his father but failed on Great Roof and Changning Corner. They made it to the top at midnight in the starting rain but could not find a descent route so they had to spend the night in a small cave.

The Nose was established in 1993 by Lynn Hill who rated it 8a but nowadays most think it is an 8b or 8b+.
Looking for a new Spanish and other country specific editors  Facebook
Ignacio Sandoval Burón started helping us out with translations, interviews and stories from the Spanish scene directly from the start of 8a, 15 years ago. Unfortunately, he had to stop working for us and therefore we are looking to hire new translators and editors. Ignacio would like to thank specifically all pro-climbers he has had the opportunity to interview.

Currently, the Spanish page has over 1 000 unique visitors every day and 8a would like to say thank you for all your good work creating a very good Spanish page and helping out globally as well.
We are also looking for more country specific editors and other people who would like to help out. Please contact
A Slovenian double most likely  (2) Facebook
1. Domen Skofic 392 - Janja Garnbret 465
2. Romain Desgranges 337 - Anak Verhoeven 395
3. Jakob Schubert 337 - Jain Kim 350
4. Stefano Ghisolfi 301 - Magdalena Röck 308
5. Gauthier Supper 255 - Mina Markovic 251

The overall ranking above is based on five out of six events. If Anak wins the last event, she will get 495 points but Janja has 516 points counting all six so she has already secured the overall title.

If either Romain Desgranges or Jakob Schubert wins in Kranj, Domen has to be #6 in front of his home crowd to secure the title. Overall, only 20 male and female have competed in all six events in 2016.
9a climbing in La Balme de Yenne by Lachat and Bouyoud  Facebook
Cafe Craft presents their holistic approach once again  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureGimme Kraft presents their second training bible after they first success - a book that sold out several times.

The book, written by physiotherapist Simon Friedrich, contains some 240 pages and in practice it is about showing and describing non-climbing exercises. The overall message is "Climb Better, Feel Better" and "Climbing Training Meets Good Health also through MOBILITY - STABILITY - STRENGTH."

It feels as if the whole book wanted to grab and shake all the gym rats focusing on finger power and inspire them with some odd training we seldom have seen before in climbing. The book is very user-friendly and you can more or less open it randomly and get very inspired. It is actually quite extreme and you just wonder what effect such training would have had on all climbers saying they never do any complementary training because this is what it is all about.

Hannes Huch give some more insight:

"Our first Gimme Kraft! book, written by Dicki Korb and Patrick Matros, was and still is a huge and unexpected success with nearly 25000 copies sold in less than 3 years. We received a lot of positive feedback from all over the world. The people especially seem to enjoy the easy-to-understand and inspiring design. It's more the Mac than the Microsoft among the training books :) But we also heard that people were missing entry level exercises, which gym-climbers can easily add to their bouldering to stay healthy. So we switched to our Café Kraft physiotherapist Simon Friedrich, who's repairing all the climbers who want too much in too short time. We invented a very easy to handle training plan so that even a newbie can create his own additional program to his climbing training. There's a lot of emphasis on mobilisation and stabilisation, things a lot of climbers lack of! Nevertheless working with the book is intended to be fun and enjoyable and to keep your motivation high. Gimme Kraft!

The Café Kraft brand is growing again: In 2017 we will open another big franchise location ... but we can't tell the city yet. And we will release another book which will be about mental training. Main author will be none other than the rockgod himself: Jerry Moffatt!"
Onsight ranking available  (2) Facebook
In order to promote onsight climbing, the webmaster has created an onsight ranking. Enjoy!
Inside Tick List Tips on Kalymnos  (1) Facebook
With more than 3 300 routes spread over some 70 sectors it can be quite hard to find your preferred routes to try. One great assistance can be the 8a Ticklist, where you can search for grades and the best routes, for example by onsight percentage etc.

However, based on your personal wanted routes and daily conditions, you might be better off by a local Kalymnos insider that knows the topo and the Ticklist.

Based on the idea of providing Inside Tick List Tips on Kalymnos, Wild Sport will start doing it next week in their main shop. Just show up there and they will help you to find the best sectors and routes for you.
Kalymnos: from soft to hard grades  (23) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKalymnos is well-known for its soft grades but in reality in 2017 the new gym climbing generation will probably say the grades are hard. The reason for this is that almost half of the first steep routes have been downgraded, some lines are a bit polished and there has been a change in the climber profile and average strength.

Some ten years ago, gyms were limited especially when it comes to Bouldering. Nowadays, new Boulder gyms are popping up everywhere and more and more climbers are performance oriented, following training programs.

In Kalymnos, the unique and classical routes are long, 3-dimensional, with focus on resting and technique, which makes them almost the anti-style of Bouldering. After one attempt on the classical Aegialis 7c, (c) Jörg Zeidelhack, most need an hour's rest and can do a maximum of three attempts per day.

This can be compared with the Bouldering lifestyle where you could do 30 attempts a day and instead of just ticking Aegialis, you could do at least five 7Bs. Amazingly, during the last month, Aegialis has been ticked only five times, which is just half of the average ascent number of the last ten years. At the same time, more lines of around the 7B grade are added to the 8a database.

As the difficulty scale in climbing is supposed to reflect how hard the community has to struggle for doing different routes, it is time to stop saying that the typical routes are soft in Kalymnos and start to regard them as rather hard.
Numerous Speed climbing incidents  Facebook
In the Speed World Championship in Paris we could see that what was decided on the winner was a little mistake, like slipping foot etc. The official video from the last Speed WC in China shows the same problem.

Other then that, Anouck Jaubert took her fourth consecutive WC win and Marcin Dzienski also secured his overall title being third.
Kalymnos at its best but there are less climbers  (14) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2016, some 150 routes have been opend and 300 new routes have been bolted on Kalymnos including Arginonta Valley, which has become possibly the most popular sector on the island. The approach is five minutes, it is very well protected, both the longer vertical easier routes and the shorter steeper routes around 7a are of high quality and it is in the shade.

Even so, there have been around 20% less climbers this year and in fact, the topo author Aris, estimated that October started with the least climbers since 2005. The main reason for this is said to be climbers not being comfortable been the refugee situation from last year and the fact that Ryan Air stopped some 50% of their flights.

Another possible reason might be the fact that bouldering, especially indoors, has exploded creating a different climber profil: less interested to climb long steep routes on jugs. Instead of getting super pumped needing long recovery and actually feeling the grades for this type of routes to be hard, they might have chosen to travel to Fontainebleu this autumn.

As of 2017, 8a will try to present all possible flight connections now when Ryan Air will stop flying to Kos and there will be less flights directly to Kalymnos. Many other ideas, like bolting more short routes, adding bolts on some ”oldschool” routes, creating circuits, climbing festivals etc have been put forward and 8a will follow up on it.
Another great Kalymnos Festival  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAfter three years of North Face Festivals including many celebrities, the locals continued the festival and the marathon climbing tradition together with Vertical-Life. A couple of hundred people gathered at Elena Village during three nights with Zlagboard competition, slide shows from big wall climber Roger Schaeli, amputee Urko Carmona Barandiaran and the final cermony with great prizes from local shop Wild Sport.

Everyone who signed up to the Festival did get a free T-shirt and some bar coupons. During one day, the municipality did also take out everyone to the DWS area outside Vathy. Overall, the Festival was a success as always and plans for the next year have already started.
Question Madness  Facebook
Speed climbers might be embarrassing in Tokyo  (6) Facebook
Marcin Dzienski has won the last four Boulder World Cups and the World Championship in Paris. Last weekend, the Pole competed in the University Championship also in Lead and Boulder, where his results suggest that it will be impossible for him to qualify to the Olympic based on Combined results.

In Bouldering he was dead last with no zones even if you have to do four problems just to qualify to the semifinal. In Lead he was third last, only beating two guys who were said to struggle on 7a moves.

The only option for Marcin and probably all speed specialists is to win the Speed World Championship as IOC has requested that that person qualify. However, just imagine how strange it would be for him and also the spectators to watch him not being able to move from the marked starting position.
Funny Calendar 2017  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDown load your Funny Calendar 2017, which comes in several different languages.
Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClimb Greece has the latest news about the Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11. Leonidio is located some 3 hours south east from Athens.

"Leonidio is on the south east coast of Greece, and it is hands down one of the best winter climbing destinations in Europe. It now features more than 800 sport routes, some of which were rebolted earlier this year, amidst stunning mountain and sea backdrops."

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