Skin care by Climbskin  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbskin has helped us out with with some skin care advises. Chris Sharma is one of their ambassadors,

- "It is a great product, it moisturizes and rebuilts your skin. It is not like the waxy or oily materials, you can actually put it on before you climb which is one of the most amazing things. Climbskin is gonna change people's climbing. It is by far the best product on the market".



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First 9a by Mark Anderson (39)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMark Anderson from Rockclimbers training manual has done his first 9a, Shadowboxing in Rifle. It took the 39-year-old 28 days of projecting and it is all nicely explained in the blog. (c) Mike Anderson

"Physically, I was able, but mentally I was not prepared to accept that I was good enough to climb such a hard route. Overcoming that barrier and sticking with it to the end was the most mentally difficult thing I’ve ever done—harder than the Cassin Ridge, finishing a marathon off the couch, Boot Camp, or the endless drudgery and starvation of high school wrestling. Never have I had to persevere through so much persistent failure, so many setbacks, over so many days and multiple seasons. So many times I could have quit, and I would have been well-justified in doing so. But I kept going. Each off-season, I looked at fat Mark in the mirror and wondered if I’d be able to regain my form in time for the next season. Each time I did. The day of the send was a microcosm of the entire campaign. So many things didn’t go perfectly, so many moments of doubt or indecision crept in to derail my focus. But I kept moving towards the goal, and I was rewarded for it."



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Fifth 8c for Laura Rogora (15)  Facebook
 

Laura Rogora, who did her first 9a this spring, being 14 years old, has made an one day ascent of Redbull 8c in Collepardo, where she also onsighted an 8a. The 15-year-old is in the #1 in the female ranking game as well as in the overall Age & Gender ranking where Adam Ondra is #2.

"On my second go I fell on the last move. The next try I felt more tired but fought until the chain sending my first 8c in a day. The route is about 20-25 meters long with a hard boulder in the last meters. Now I am training for the world championship in November in China. it will be the last competition of the season and then I hope I will be able to climb on rock and to find a new hard project."



 
 
2nd 8c for Martina Cufar Potard (39)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartina Cufar Potard, the World Champion 2001, has done her second 8c, Max Power in Bionnassay.

"Hard for me (crux being a long move)!!! I didn't count the tries...but I knew the moves before I even tried it, when belaying Nico 5 years ago (pregnant) when he did the FA. He told me I am supposed to do the first female ascent...it took me one summer of serious tries:-)"

The Slovenian did her first 8c in 2005, at the same time as she finished her very successful competition career, which started some 20 years ago. Martina was the first world class competition climber from Slovenia. It is also interesting that she just climbs and does some campus only once in a while. In total, she projected the 8c for some 20+ sessions but now she says will be back on onsight mode again.

 
 
9a again by Daniel Fuertes and José luis Palao  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Fuertes and José luis Palao, in the picture by Javi Pec, have done Autoengaño 9a in Rodellar. In total, Daniel has done six 9a's just in 2016 and for José it was the second one as he also did Siempre inconformistas last week.

 
 
Narasaki & Ganbret Adidas Rock Stars  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOnce again, Adidas Rockstars pulled off an amazing show, which as always finished with a superfinal, where two finalists battled the last Boulder on time. As for the female, it actually took Janja Garnbret 4+ minutes while Tomoa Narasaki needed just 16 seconds. Tomoa has previousy won both the WC and the World Championship whereas Janja is on one of the top positions in the Lead WC and won the World Championship. The runner-ups were Jessica Pilz and Jan Hojer.

In total, 72 athletes from 22 countries were invited. During the qualification and semi, normal IFSC rules applied. In the final with 3 500 spectators, a knock-out format was used and only three competitors remained after the first two Boulders. The fourth Boulder was a superfinal for the two best.

 
 
Sharma fell about 30 times from 18 meters on Alasha (9b?)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureImagine, spending about 20 days, mainly alone, and falling like 20 times from 18 meters down into the Mediterranean sea. The impact hitting the water is enormous and a bit dangerous, but even so, when Chris Sharma reached the surface he couldn't stop swimming around looking for a new crux sequence. After ten more monster whippers, he decided to rappel down finding out that it was an 8B Boulder!

Could you please explain how you projected Alasha from when you found it?

I found the wall about five or six years ago. Miquel Riera and I did a reconnaissance mission where we swam about 6 kilometers scoping out all the caves and walls. After seeing this line from below I inevitably had to rappel in to see the line and holds better. I then began trying the route from the bottom.

However after trying for many days over several trips I realized that my effort was a bit hopeless unless I came back with a rope and really figured the moves out. So this September I came and spent about 7-8 days just working the upper section on rappel. The crux sequence is so tricky for the feet and body positions and is very powerful for the fingers. Bit by bit though I started to understand the moves better and better until I felt like I could give some good goes.

It was a very special morning when I sent. With just my buddy Ricardo filming and the waves crashing. One of my top 10 moments in climbing for sure!

 
 
9b? DWS FA by Chris Sharma on Mallorca  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma opened the DWS Es Pontas ten years ago. No grade suggestion was forwarded but he agreed that it might be a 9b and in fact nobody has come close to repeating it. Now Chris reports on Facebook that he has done something similar. (c) Adrian Garcia

"Last week I was able to send a long term project that I'd been trying over the last 5 years on the northwest coast of Mallorca. In honor of my beautiful daughter I named the line #Alasha. So proud of this one. I really had to work hard, dig deep and pull out all the tricks in the book. As you can see it's quite a stunning piece of stone in a very epic location. It's a very different style to Es Pontas but I'd say it's somewhere in the similar difficulty range.

In this picture I'm entering the crux boulder sequence (maybe around 8B) at about 18 meters high. Somewhat auspicious was the fact I sent it around the 10 year anniversary of my ascent of Es Pontas . As time passes , it's crazy to see so many things change and yet the passion is still quite the same. Life is good! A nice note to be entering the climbing season on! So much gratitude to my wife."

 
 
It became an 8C Obsession for Łukasz Dudek  (4) Facebook
 

Łukasz Dudek had done 13 routes graded 9a before doing Obsession, a very long roof 8C Boulder. During 2016, Dudek has also done some multi-pitches up to 8b+, although he took a bad fall once. Planet Mountain has the MP story.

 
 
8A+ by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk in Grampians  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Silver Platter 8A+ in Grampians. "Very satisfying as a last day send! In between rain showers, being keen paid off!" Here is her blog report about her two month long trip, including also sending Punks in the Gym 8b+, with David Mason, who took the picture of her on So you think you can dance 8A.

 
 
8C in Rocklands by Ryuichi Murai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done his fourth 8C this year by Spray of Lights in Rocklands. "I managed to climb this king line after 4days working. Extreme smearing made me excited!!"

During the last two weeks he has sent eight Boulders graded 8B and harder and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game. Check out his Facebook account with many short Instagram videos.

 
 
Ryan Air stops flying to Kos/Kalymnos in 2017  Facebook
 

News.gtp.gr comes with the very sad news that Ryan Air will stop their flights to Kos next year. Already this year they cancelled several flights and it is said that there are about 20% less climbers on the island.

 
 
8c+ trad by Ethan Pringle  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEthan Pringle reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of Black Beards Tears 8c+ at the Promontory protecting the 40 meters by 15 cams and one stopper. For the history books, this is the second 8c+ trad ascent - first was Beth Rodden's Meltown.

- This is definitely one of, if not the coolest and most unique FAs I've ever done in my life! I'd fantasized about how this fabled crack climb might look and feel for weeks before I saw it at the start of the month. When I first laid eyes on it, my jaw hit the floor.

On September 2nd I rapped in and installed an anchor right below the very top of the wall. I knew as soon as I saw the line up close that it was going to have some bad ass climbing on it and it did not disappoint. After 10 days of the usual kind of hard work and of course a fair amount of blood, sweat, a few tears right there at the end, I nabbed the red point.

 
 
Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast year, Tomoa Narasaki was #4 in the Youth World Championship and #30 overall in the World Cup. The Japanese started out 2016 with being #18 and #15 but then something kicked in. During the last six events, his worst result was #2.

- I' am so happy about my result and my performance also. My two dreams "World Cup winner and World Champion" have come true this year. I am thankful for all the support.

I think my successful result this year is due to changing attitude and environment. I tried to go outside climbing for improving my technical skill. I met a good body training coach last year. I often train how to use my body in the fitness gym. I watched video of Boulder World Cups for learn body position, then I make similar problems to my self.


The 170 cm tall and 58 kg heavy guy started climbing when he was ten years old because of his brother. Previously he had been training apparatus gymnastics. Outdoors, he has done 8B+ and he says that he is going for the Olympics in Tokyo 2020 for sure. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
8B+ FA in Malatal by Christof Rauch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChristof Rauch, who did 81 Boulders 8A and harder just last year, has done the FA of The Source 8B+ in Malatal. In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #4.

"A new Kingline is born! My best first ascent ever! Beside the "Bügeleisen" (new video is out) this is the best line in the valley! Did it on the last go of the day, after falling 5 times on the last hard move. Really surprised myself to stick the last move at this try. Can't be more psyched. Onto the next!"

 
 
Paris Bouldering Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Adam Ondra's fairytale story from Paris  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra, the double World Champion from 2014, shares his thoughts on the World Championship in Paris, where he was #1 in Lead and #2 in Boulder. "Additionally, there is finally one Instagram account which is official and truly mine."

- My overall feeling from Paris is for sure like a dream. I think the
whole 2016 season just worked out perfectly in order to be 100% prepared for Paris. Even though I have been focusing on my outdoor projects, I
have been in the strict training regime in between the trips and thus
trained indoors a lot anyways, especially in the spring season when I
was finishing university. And just those few weeks before Paris, I could transform all the training into the plastic - like being used to the PU holds and style of WC routes and boulders.

Every day before Paris my confidence was growing and the last training in Innsbruck was extremely satisfying. Being in Paris, I felt strong and confident every single round and that is obviously incredibly important in order to stay calm relaxed, yet motivated. In bouldering finals, I was slightly disappointed also because I felt so good in the previous rounds and I knew I did not make my best, but of course 2nd place itself is great. So disappointment was mainly about my own performance. It is completely possible that if more big names had made to the finals, I would not have been 2nd. But that is the game.

I just think that for semifinals and finals of World Championships, the style of setting could have been more diverse. The boulders were mainly technical and feet were smears. It was not necessarily bad for me, I actually like technical problems, but in my opinion, the World Champion should be decided on wider range of problems. But it was bit of a problem of the bouldering wall, which was bit too much vertical/slabby, so the routesetter must have had hard time
to set more diverse problems.

Lead was just a fairy-tale story. I was a little afraid that I would be a little tired, climbing 5 days in a row, but it did not really affect that much. I think I just got so fit due to the PUC training. I felt a little tired on the warm up, but as soon as I started climbing in the final route, I just felt great. The route was very nice to climb, with different sections and making that final dyno and enjoying the crowd going crazy just before making the easy topout - it was a lifetime experience... Unforgettable...
(c) Eddie Fowke catching the moment once again.

 
 
Lead final highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
A simple Olympic format solution  (21) Facebook
 

Based on the constraints IFSC has put forward in regards to IOC demands, here is a simple Olympic format solution. All 20 participants will first do one round of Speed, Boulder and Lead. The Top-8 qualify to the final, which is dependent on the ranking sum.

In the final round, all 8 finalists will do all disciplines again and the ranking will determine the medalists. Alternatively, only 6 qualify to the Lead superfinal based on ranking sum of Speed and Boulder.

Day 1: Speed and Boulder qualification format
Day 2: Lead semi format and appointing who is in the Top-8

Day 2: Speed Final
Day 3: Boulder Final and Lead Final/Superfinal

The advantage of this simple solution is that all competitors will compete in all three disciplines, which is not possible in the IFSC suggestion. Only minimal additions would be made to the World Championships and Continental Championships, which will count as the Olympic qualifications.

 
 
Adam Ondra wins in possibly the best show ever  (41) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra was last out on the super spectacular final route and the excitement in the arena was full on. In the end everyone was standing up and once the 23-year-old sticked the last double dyno, he turned to the spectators full of adrenaline and continued to the top. Many of the guys in the live-streaming said it was the best show they had seen. Sport climbing is ready for the Olympic Games. (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit

 
 
Male Lead Finals  Facebook
 

 
 
Petra Klingler gets the gold - epic moments  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePetra Klingler found the key toe-hook on the fourth problem unintentionally and the emotions were just overwhelming. She gets her acts together and does a dynamic catch to the right stopping the pendulum by ending in the big cross. On topping out, she starts crying.

- Mind blow! It is nothing in your head anymore. It is just like happiness going through your whole body... it does not matter what the ranking would be. It was just so much fun to climb this final. (Picture and comments from the very nice live-streaming).

Last out was Akiyo Noguchi, who had onsighted two Boulders and had both hands on one problem, but she could not handle the pressure and she was #3. The silver was taken by Miho Nonaka, who was also #2 in the Boulder World Cup 2016. Complete results.

It is noteworthy that Petra did not even make it to the semifinal in the last World Cup and she has just made it into the final once in 2016. The 24-year-old is like a late bloomer as she was not so successful in the Euro Youth Cups and it took her eight World Cup events to make it to the semifinal.

 
 
Female Bouldering at 12 and Male Lead at 15.30  Facebook
 

 
 
Marcin Dzieński - Speed World Champion  Facebook
 

Marcin Dzieński, who did win the three last Speed WCs and who was interviewed by 8a last week, is the new Speed World Champion. Actually, he was superior in all four rounds and amazingly, he was the fastest in the Final, 5.83, which was his fourth run in just about 40 minutes.

 
 
Narasaki wins in the amazing show  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTomoa Narasaki, the overall World Cup 2016 winner, has won the gold in a spectacular show in the World Championship in Paris. Last year, the 20-year-old was #30 in the Boulder World Cup and #4 in the Youth Worlds. The Japanese started the 2016 season being #18 and #15 and then something clicked as his worst result in the last five WCs was #2.

During the final in Paris he made quick work on the three Boulders. He only failed on the second Boulder, where it seemed he was hindered by his height. Adam Ondra, the double World Champion from 2014, was second, putting up a great show. The World Championship was actually his first Bouldering competition in 2016 and last year he was #6 on average, counting the last three WCs.

Manual Cornu, who is currently second in the Combined after winning Speed at 7.83, did get the bronze. The French was actually leading after two problems and had one hand on the top of the third problem. On the fourth he fought so hard that he got a standing ovation.

Noteworthy is that the winner, Narasaki, was last into the final and started first out. Since 2007, the guys starting first have gotten five golds and three silvers during eleven events.

 
 
Janja Garnbret (17) wins in the extraordinary show  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret grabs the second last hold, slips of for a split second, takes it again and continues to the final hold. Once again a World Championship in Paris proved to be an amazing show. Anak Verhoeven actually topped earlier with a margin but as she had worse result in the semi, Janja is the winner, which was based on countback.

In the junior events, Janja has been superior for many years. When she started to compete win the seniors in some WCs last year she was was mainly runner up. This year she started by winning the three first World Cups but in the two last events she was #3 and #5 before she got the biggest title in Paris.

 
 
Elena Krasovskaia (16) in the Boulder final and about to win in Combined  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureElena Krasovskaia (16), who was #14 in the European Youth Bouldering Championship last month, was the big sensation making it into the Final with five big favorites. As she is #20 in Speed at 9.83, she is in the leading position to win the Combined. (c) Eddie Fowke

17:30-19:00 Bouldering Final Men
19:30 Awarding Ceremony
20:15-21:00 Speed Final Men
21:00-22:00 Lead Final Women
22:00 Awarding Ceremony

 
 
Ondra has won the Lead semifinal  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureComplete results.

 
 
Semifinals: WOMEN Bouldering / MEN Lead  Facebook
 

 
 
All big names safely through  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureComplete results.

 
Derrick Starling

Derrick Starling on Sci
ence Friction V6/7A
 
Marina Inoue

Bush League 7b+, Hueco
Tanks
 
Viola Battistella

Viola Battistella tout
a Bloc 2015 4 class.
 
Josh Greaves

Faberge 7c, Fernkloof
 
Derrick Starling

Glue Sniffing Bandit Mo
nkeys 6c+, Hillside Dam
s
 
Tamás Zupán

Spina-de-mul 7c+, Suste
npass
 
James Simmons

Fantasy Island, put up
by JC Hunter, with few
repeats. Made good gain
s until sustaining a se
ason ending pulley inju
ry. Still on the projec
t list. Bouldery and Be
UTAHful.
 
Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haladaj on Firs
t Ley 9a+, Margalef
 
Christian Welkhammer

Speed 8b, Karlstein
 
Chuck Odette

maggie sky dancing her
way up don't mess with
texas
 
Alizée Sanchez

Fontainebleau
 
Jonathan Guadalcázar

Vaya vecinos 8c+, Tárbe
na
 
Gerry Retzloff

Pink Moon, V5. Hueco Ta
nks.
 
Kemal SEZEN

So you think you can da
nce 8a, Grampians
 
Frederike Förster (f)

2nd Skin, Silvretta
 
Bartek Sroka

Die zwei Muskeltiere 8a
, Frankenjura,
 
Limetta limetta

kalymnos, aegialis 7c o
nsight
 
Seth Zachek

 
James Simmons

Classic leg pumping AF
stem. One of the best f
or the grade in the can
yon. Photo Cred: Three
Peak Films
 
Maciej Szuchta

Albarracin
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Under Pres
sure" fb 7c -Val Masi
no- Italy
 
Mohsen beheshti rad

New project in iran_qaz
vin_niagh Maybe 8b
 
Ryuichi Murai

Sky 8b+, Rocklands
 
Climb in Kymi

Antonis Anyfantakis enj
oying the onsight of 'H
ippocles', Katavolo cra
g, Kymi
 
Andreas Hanisch

Unendliche Geschichte 2
8a, Magic wood
 
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Markus Adamaszek - Sledgehammer, 9- (7b+), Frankenjura
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Smart climbing at the Kalymnos Festival 2016  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe 10th edition of the world-famous Kalymnos Climbing Festival introduces an innovative contest modus: there will be an open fun marathon, which is based on the Vertical-Life Climbing App. Climbers can participate in pairs (female, male or mixed category). They will gather points for their ascents by marking them directly in the app. The scoring system corresponds to the 8a ranking game.

As we have seen, the contest system by Vertical-Life proves to be a useful tool for Climbing Festivals: it had worked for other open competitions such as Melloblocco, Dolorock and the Austria Festival before. App.vertical-life.info
 
Zangerl, Ojeda & McInerney's boot camp  Facebook
 
TNF Festival below The Eiger with 500 participants  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureLauterbrunnen, Switzerland – 500 people from 21 different countries, some as from far away as the USA and Canada to Hong Kong, descended upon The North Face Mountain Festival over the weekend for three days of intense outdoor adventure and exploration. Massive 70 plus activities were completed, which included everything from trail running, climbing and hiking, to paragliding, canyon jumping, canyoning, rafting and alpinism.

Away from the outdoor pursuits, festival goers could enjoy all that the event’s Base Camp had to offer – the aim being to inspire, learn and celebrate after returning from the mountains. Inspiration started in the form of tales from the brand’s athlete team, such as Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger’s first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. Foodies could learn how to transform basic food supplies into tasty and nutrious meals to fuel their bodies during an expedition. Creative minds learned how to best capture the great outdoors through a photography workshop. Performance obsessed explorers discovered new ways to preprare their bodies for the mountain. Finally, there was a chance to celebrate the day’s events and stunning surroundings with locally sourced food and drinks, live bands, and DJs.
 
The Hourglass 8B in Västervik  Facebook
 
Adam Ondra's endurance training  Facebook
 
Chris Frick is peaking at 48  (4) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureChris Frick (48) started climbing in 1982. By doing Enfant de Bohème 8c at Basler Jura in 2015 and then Goldfinger 8c at Gimmelwald in August he reached a personal best. Some days ago he did his 300th route in the realm of the french eighth grade.

- Progressing at 45+ is still possible. It's all about motivation and love for climbing. One can't neglect busy times with family, job, etc. But take care of yourself. Climbing means life quality. After a surgery (labrum fixation) four years ago I tried to redefine my climbing. Clear structure in days on and off helps as well as intelligent training including antagonist and stretching exercises. Most important was to get rid of so-called energy vampires in life, work and food. I found vegan nutrition works best for me. Weight control is now a piece of cake (-10 kg!). All this resulted in an energy blast that now holds on since two years. If you feel the fire inside, then go and live your dreams. Don't be stupid and say you're too old and get trapped in convenience and passiveness. To be still on is great. Enjoy life!
 
New Matt Fultz Sending and Training  Facebook
 
Age & Gender Ranking  (2) Facebook
We have played with the rankings giving 150 points extra per year once you turn 36, 250 extra points for every year if you are younger than 19 and also 1 000 bonus points for female.

13 840 Adam Ondra 1993 - 11 900 Isabelle Faus 1993
13 832 Laura Rogora 2001 - 11 853 Alex Puccio 1989
13 193 Loic Zehani 2001 - 11 786 James Webb 1987
13 150 Ramón Puigblanque 1981 - 11 700 Ryuichi Murai 1994
13 050 Jakob Kronberger 2001 - 11 532 M Mascarenas 1997
13 045 Chuck Odette 1955 - 11 500 Toshi Takeuchi 1986

Further down in the list there are many names very high up in the ranking that have not been in the headlines yet, like: Franz Fackler (56), Ida Kups (17), Anna Enrich (54), Steve Crow (59), Amelia Marcusson (14) and Toma Strnad (41).
 
15 male and 13 female participated in Combined  (4) Facebook
IFSC has experienced some server problems but finally there are the Combined results. What is interesting to see is actually that just a couple of the best male and female participated and none of the best Speed climbers. As an example, Seungwon Cho was close to get the bronze after being 39 - 71 - 37.

Regarding the Combined format suggested by IFSC in Paris, the latest news is that they have withdrawn this and they are considering alternative solutions like the one from 8a.
 
Leonidio Climbing Festival 10-13/11  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMore info from the new crag with some 800 routes three hours from Athens.
 
"Upside-down" results confirmed in Paris  (79) Facebook
In Bouldering finals, the starting order is reversed in comparison to the semifinal Top-6 results, i.e. the first guy out in the final was the last guy to qualify. However, the competitor with the worst semi result is normally the best in the final. In the 12 events since 2007, the athlete starting on fresh holds has won five golds and three silver.

Beside fighting with worse friction, the last person out has to deal with much more pressure. In Paris, Akiyo Noguchi was #1 before the last Boulder but she had to listen to the arena exploding when Petra Klinger did it. Later Miho Nonaka finished it as well and by then Akiyo did very well know that she was no longer going to be #1. Instead, she did know that she had to top to get the gold.

Suddenly, the winner of the qualification and semifinal, who had also performed best on the three first Boulders, could not handle the pressure. In reality, only one of the girls had worse results on the last Boulder problem.

Already in 2007, I started to talk about this "upside-down" result since I witnessed it live in Aviles and spoke to Daniel Dulac. He had won the qualification and in the semi he was the only person onsighting all four problems. In the final, he was dead last with no tops. Daniel said it was just awful to sit and listen to the others top out making the spectators go wild and as a matter of a fact, this was his last competition.

What I am putting emphasis on sre five golds and three silvers out of twelve sets of medals. IFSC has to deal with this and find a solution.
 
IFSC athlete commission without a word  Facebook
IFSC has an athlete commission including eleven of the very best World Cup climbers. "The commission provides a channel for communication between athletes and the IFSC Board."

Now it turns out that the representatives were just informed about the IFSC Olympic suggestions one week before the World Championship without any possibility to communicate their opinions.

If the best athlete does not agree to the format and boycott the Olympic, climbing will surely be kicked out in 2024. Why do IFSC run an athlete commission if they do not bother to listen to their elected representatives?
 
Speed Medalists but no results from IFSC  Facebook
Based on the podium pictures, below are the Combined medalists and their overall result in Lead - Boulder - Speed. It should be mentioned that in the Combined calculation, only athletes doing all three disciplines are included. However, IFSC has not presented any results in Combined.

1. Sean McColl CAN 6 - 17 - 38
2. Manuel Cornu FRA 51 - 3 - 32
3. David Firnenburg GER 17 - 49 - 44

1. Elena Krasovskaia RUS 29 - 6 - 20
2. Claire Buhrfeind USA 7 - 24 - 41
3. Charlotte Durif FRA 13 - 26 - 33

How is it even possible not to present results in the discipline which is supposed to be Olympic in 2020? Should not IFSC give higher priority for this showing the direction for the athletes?
 
Thin Trad FAs in Utah Desert  Facebook
 
Slapstick Olympic presentation by IFSC  (15) Facebook
Yesterday, IFSC had an Olympic presentation for the athletes and coaches in Paris and most of the audience actually just shook their heads. In the suggested format 20 competitors should start with Speed, where four of them are knocked out. Then the remaining 16 continues to Boulder with some more cut offs before the big Lead final deciding on the medalists.

The athletes and coaches were asked to make written comments and suggestions before the deadline of 25th September in regards to this knock-out format. When it comes to qualification, IFSC said that the decision of this part should be up tonational federations!

Many critical comments and questions were raised. Jakob Schubert addressed some as well but he was interrupted by an IFSC representative asking: "Could you please present yourself?"

IFSC explained that IOC had given the Olympic conditions: One set of medals, 20 participants, the World Champions in the three disciplines have to participate. Further more, there must be something in the form of a superfinal where the medalists are picked. IFSC did not want a calculated gold medal.

The IFSC President, Marco Scolaris, said that it was very important for us to create a good show in order continue with climbing as an Olympic sport; hopefully with three sets of medals in 2024.
 


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