Challenge interaction "Gamba!" focus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTalking to many of the Japanese coaches and athletes in regards their extreme success recipe, it is about problem solving in a challenge interactive mode. There is no Japanese secret, they just go to the gym five times a week and basically just have fun doing and interacting on spectacular boulders, beside stretching every day.

The focus from their coaches is technique. Strengh weeknesses are solved by doing specific boulders rather than hanging on a campus board etc. In Munich there were five coaches filming and writing comments on their athlete feedback paper. The culture is about learning new things and interact in order to optimize their performance.

After the comp they talk to the route setters and then they all show up trying to solve the problems again, again and again. At the same time the after party starts, the Japaneses have their after climb at the stage in their sneakers. Once their competitors are drinking beers, tape is put on trying to stop the blood in order to squeeze in some more crazy double or triple dynos. "Gamba!"



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Ondra's power-endurance training recommendations  Facebook
 



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Munich final highlights  Facebook
 



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Hojer and Garnbret win epic show in Munich  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer, competing against five guys from Asia, put on an amazing show in the Boulder World Cup final in Munich. Some 3 000 spectators got crazy for each top and when he also topped the last boulder and secured the victory it was an epic thunder and lightening moment. Jan got emotional and after the event he took the michro phone and explained how much their support mentioned.

Among the female, Janja Garnbret who has won the three first Lead WCs this year won her third Bouldering WC. Once again she did it by showing a spectacular technique using all of her body from the toes to the head continuing and stopping big pendelum swings. The young Slovenian also saved the show for the route setters, together with Stasa Gejo, as the other four climbers basically could not establish the start or doing the first move on two consecutive boulders. (c) Eddie Fowke Complete results

1. Jan Hojer GER 4t10 4b6 - Janja Garnbret SLO 3t10 3b6
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 3t6 3b3 - Shauna Coxsey 2t2 2b2
3. Taisei Ishimatsu JPN 3t7 3b4 - Akiyo Noguchi 1t1 2b4
4. Jongwon Chon KOR 2t3 3b4 - Stasa Gejo 1t3 3b9
5. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 2t3 3b4 - Alex Puccio 1t3 2b4
6. Kokoro Fujii JPN 2t9 2b6 - Petra Klingler 0 1b4

Follow up article where the Japaneses, Chon and Hojer explain their success recipe is coming up.



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Stasa Gejo European Champion after super final  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret and Stasa Gejo both scored 4t6 4b6 in the semifinal of the Munich Boulder World Cup which made the route setter had to rebuild one of the male problems. After both had failed to do the first move and dyno twice, Stasa made it and reached one more hold putting pressure on Janja, who missed the dyno again.

Among the male Jan Hojer won ahead of Alex Megos creating some unfairness for Jan as he has to stay waiting for the cermony. Jan was not so Happy of the new rule having the European Champion during the semi. At the same time the Japaneses and Jongwon Chon left the venue directly after the semifinal getting some food and rest at the hote, Jan is still here waiting for the medal cermony.

The unfairness was even worse for the female having to do one more boulder. The World Cup final starts 18:00.



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Munich Live Saturday 10:00 semi and 18:00 final  Facebook
 

The qualification has started and here you have the Updated results. Live-streaming on IFSC starts with semifinal at 10:00 and Final 18:00.

Shauna Coxsey has already secured the title and among the male, Jongwon Chon is #1. If Alexey Rubtsov wins the last event, Chon needs to be #3 to secure the title. The Russian could also win if he is third in Munich and Chon is #12 or worse. In theory, Keita Watabee could also win overall.

 
 
Chuck Odette's (61) 8b+ FA great story  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureChuck Odette started climbing in 1978 and did his first 7a+ 1989 being 34 years old. Since two years, he is a full time retired climber who is getting a new peak being 61 years old doing the FA of Bulletproof Monk 8b+ in Logan Canyon. (c) Heidi Baxter

"Technically, it's been a 2 year process. My wife (Maggie Odette 8b+ in 2016 being 46) and I have been on the road full time since June of 2015, which helps a lot. We've been living in our little Scamp Trailer for the past 2 years and 2 months! We change location about every 2 or 3 month, following the weather usually. We're able to climb and rest on our schedule rather than climbing just on weekend and training during the week. Full time climbers have it made :) blog.

I really started focusing on this route last year when I bombed out in Maple trying to do a couple of the longer 8b+ routes there. I was very close, but the best I could do was to repeat a couple 8b/8b+ routes last summer. The two routes, Ego Boost (8b/8b+) and Mexican Rodeo (8b/8b+), I had done when I was a much younger 50 year old... HA!

Logan Canyon was essentially my local "home" crag for many years (1994 to 2002) so it made sense to go back to Logan and try something hard there this year. I had put up a new line called Shaolin (8b) in 2014 and linked it to a harder longer endurance finish and called it Golden Child (8b+) also done in 2014. I tried to link Shaolin into another, more direct finish at that time, which is the finish I just did, but I felt like it was too powerful for me to do at my advanced age. It's 7B or 7B+ boulder grade maybe? Hard for old geezers... or so I thought...??? :)

Being away from the route for three years made me think about it more and I felt that it might be possible for me to do if I trained specifically just for that finish. Maggie and I decided to return to Logan Canyon this year so she could do a couple of FFA's or harder 8a+ and 8b grade possibly, and so I could work on linking Shaolin into this much harder finish...

To prepare for this, we spent 6 weeks bouldering in the Priest Draw of Northern Arizona, which is steep pocked limestone (like China Cave) and very powerful movement. We trained hard on our portable tripod back in camp every night after bouldering, three days a week. We did weighted pull ups, gymnastic ring push ups and lots of core training stuff. Power is our weakness, so all we did was work our weakness during that time. On our rest days, we both do a lot of Ashtanga (power) yoga for recovery and opposition muscle strength training. Basically, we were doing active recovery while balancing out our pull muscles to help prevent injury.

When we arrived to climb in China Cave (Logan Canyon) we were both extremely fit for it. I repeated a handful of routes to build a pyramid toward the ultimate goal of sending the new and harder finish to Shaolin. After repeating The Golden Child, during this phase, I knew I was ready to link the harder variation. It took three climbing days (over a five day period) to work out the moves to the new finish. Three more climbing days later (and another five day period) I linked the entire rig for the redpoint. I felt lucky since my physical, mental and emotional states were all at peak performance levels. Coincidentally, my peak performance level corresponded with cooler temps. We had been climbing in 30-32C temps (in the shade!) and on the send day it was only 25C. Sometimes there's a bit of "luck" involved when sending something at your limit!"

 
 
8c+ trad hybrid by Bernd Zangerl after big injury  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBernd Zangerl, one of the pioneers of Magic Wood and a leading boulderer some 15 yeras ago, took a very bad fall in 2015. (c) Ray Demski

"I landed hard on my back on my crash pad, followed by a somersault into the forest’s stony ground. Conscious again, I was sitting on my knees looking up at the project five meters above me. There was only little pain in my neck, which I didn’t give much attention to, and I went back home.

The next day I went to a spa, relaxing. I didn’t think the fall was anything serious, until a few days later when the pain became unstintingly severe.
After a MRI, the doctors explained to me that I was very lucky, but I’d badly injured the 5th and 6th vertebra in my neck.

When I woke up a few days later, I couldn’t feel my thumb and index finger anymore. A funky feeling. A few hours later my muscles on my back (terres major and serratus anterior) started vibrating. That was the moment when the brain stopped sending impulses to the muscles. The atrophy started slowly. I didn’t know what was going on. I felt the results eight weeks later back in the gym. I wanted to hold on some jugs, but I couldn’t do it anymore. My arm straightened without any resistance. I totally lost the two most important muscles in climbing, the terres major and serratus anterior!

After a 1,5 year of physio training indoor and specific mental work every day, I was super happy to be outside, to climb on the rock again. Into the Sun (8c+) starts with a six move 8A+ traverse into Fred Nicole's old top rope boulder Murgtal Tag & Nacht 8A+ (where gear is placed) and tops out with a 7b link.

After this injure, it is not the grade which is important to me. It never really was. The way back to bouldering, to climbing, to what I love can not be measured with numbers. Words can't tell how happy I am to be back on the rock. I still have some more projects which I want to climb in future. I am still not as strong as before my accident but I am getting there:-)

 
 
8b+ FA by Chuck Odette (61)  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChuck Odette continues to progress being 61-years-old doing the FA of Bulletproof Monk in Logan Canyon which was his tenth 8b+. "Linked Shaolin into the Monk finish. soooooo good... sooooo pumpped! still pumped a day latter :)"
Interview follow up to come. (c) Heidi Baxter

 
 
Digiulian and Marin make first repeat of 8c MP in Madagascar  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureSasha Digulian and Edu Marin, some of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world, have made the first repeat of the 700 metres Mora Mora 8c in Madagascar. It was bolted ground-up by Francisco Blanco and Toti Valés and in 2010, Adam Ondra made the FA. Full story including more great pics by Francois Lebeau.

Sasha: I am excited to have arrived at a point in my fitness that I could send my hardest big wall climb yet! We each sent every pitch from the ground up and both lead the Crux.

Edu: It has been a tremendous challenge with a very technical style and really small holds. One of the most incredible and beautiful experiences of the last years.

 
 
OHM - A future smashing success  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureMy 19 kg son tried belaying me at 67 kg for the very first time and thanks to the OHM it worked great. Olle was really pleased to have full control and I had to climb up two meters several times so he could lower me down.

- Dad! This is cool. How does it work?
- The OHM in the first bolt assists small belayers by creating friction.
- I want to try again. Now I can work as your belayer when you are drilling.

It should be noted that the official Edelrid manual says,
"Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer): 10 - 40 kg Minimum weight belayer: 40 kg".

The OHM is first of all produced to assist lighter belayers when their partner takes a fall. Often in a gym or even outdoors you see smaller belayers attached to some kilos of sand or so. It says that the OHM does not increase the rope drag for the lead climber but when we tested the device on a slab, sometimes it rotated and some ropedrag was created. On steeper terrain we noticed almost no increased ropedrag.

I do think this will be a smashing success especially for families with kids. I will certainly not allow my kid to belay me climbing for several years but in order to get everyone more involved, I will let Olle, under my careful supervision, belay his little brother. I am very sure they will be both very proud and it is very good for them to learn the safety protocol and how to trust each other.

 
 
Tips and tricks for beginners and up  Facebook
 

Are you ready to take that next step and move up a level?
8a Glossary
The ABC of Climbing

 
 
The 8a Ticklist gives you the best climbs in the world  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThere are now over 4.4 million star rated ascents in the 8a database. In the Ticklist, the 4 173 biggest crags respectively the 1 744 biggest boulder areas in the world are listed. These lists will guide you to climb the best and and most popular climbs in the world.

You have different search criterias like; Grade, Onsight/Flash Rate and Stars. You can also check who has done the ascents and read their comments.

In the crag Ticklist, you will also find their respectively trend popularity ranking. For each crag you will also find the average onsight percentage as well as star rating. For each crag, you can also find who has done the hardest ascents the last month, which grades and months are most popular.

 
 
Ondra's power endurance campus boarding  (6) Facebook
 

 
 
Barbara Zangerl injured at Psicocomp  (3) Facebook
 

During the Psicocomp DWS in Salt Lake City, Barbara Zangerl took a a bad fall while jumping from the 17 meter wall. Although she got a stiff neck and some pain in my upper spine and later a strange feeling in her leg, she continued the DWS comp all the way to the semifinal.

- I pushed myself too hard away from the top during my first jump from the top of the wall. At the very end, just before I hit the water, I had a really bad body position. Under the water I knocked my head in between my knees and my whole spine got forward overstretched. This is the reason for 3 protrusions TH5-7 and my old back injury got inflamed again.

I can start with easy climbing soon! But I have to completely rest until I have no more dragging pain in my leg. I think 2 weeks and then I will start again.

What could be learnt from this? Always try to straighten out your legs and arms with maximum body tension as you hit the water?

Yes that's true all about body tension. Only at the very last second try to be straight with your whole body and don't hold your nose. If you try to be straight too early then it is easier to fall in a side, front or back way and lost the balance. Try to stay open and keep the balance with your arms first and short before you hit the water. Head down, arms on your body and stay stiff and straight with your whole body.

 
 
Biographie 8c+ by Laura Rogora (16) after just four days!  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLaura Rogora, who was #6 in both the European Championship and Villars WC, reports on Instagram that she has done the 8c+ part of the legendary Biographie in Céüse. In fact, she skipped the Briancon WC as she was a bit tired from all the comps and wanted to climb on rock.

Video of when the 151 m tall first did the bouldery start, which is due to a broken hold much harder in comparison to when Chris Sharma did the FA of Realization which is her goal.

- The start was the hardest for me. It took me three days to do the boulder. I did all the moves of the second 9a+ part. I tried it for 4 days doing 2-3 tries per day.

Previously the 16 year old has done two 9a's and three 8c+'s, out of one has been suggested to be upgraded to 9a by the first repeater. In other words, the young Italian who mainly trains in a bouldering gym in Rome is currently one of the best female climbers in the world.

 
 
4 know-how things for shoes  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Route setting problems again - Finals at 20:00  (20) Facebook
 

Three current best females have topped the first three routes in Briancon meaning that who climbs faster will decide who wins if they are tied also in the final. Among the males, only one hold separated the first eleven best meaning count back decided who made it to the final. It was obvious that the male route was way too easy in the start. Complete results The
Live-streaming starts 20:00.

 
 
Briancon live-streaming semifinal 19.30  (1) Facebook
 

The fourth stage of the Lead WC starts today and the semifinal will be streamed live on Friday 19.30 and the final on Saturday also 19.30. Go to www.ifsc-climbing.org. Updated results

 
 
Ryuichi Murai sending in Magic Wood  (3) Facebook
 

 
Barone Davide

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Tj Ovesen

Yangshuo China, Yangshu
o Bang 8b+,Riverside
 
Bastian Wagner

Totem Pole 7b, Tasmania
Bastio in P1
 
Daisuke Ichimiya

Horizon 8c, hiei
 
Leo Skinner

roof of a baby buddha 7
c+/v10
 
Chuck Odette

Dreading the Mantle, Mo
e's Valley, UT
 
Jesús Gascón

Sangre de un Tsunami Et
erno, La Muela
 
Ove Skagen

Like a squirrel 7a+, Ro
cklands
 
Matteo calledda

Tony Orrù - Cristal Wav
es 7a, Ulassai
 
Eric Hörst

Cameron Horst sending T
hanatopsis (8c).
 
Jose Manuel Cano

Fugazzi 8a, Sant Lloren
ç del Munt
 
Eric Zschiesche

Tiny 8a. Thin vertical
crimping and compressio
n moves,... Sweet stuff
!!
 
Unai Martínez Malaxechevarría

The Climb Open Boulder
Festival 2017
 
Marina Inoue

Never Believe 7c, Rifle
 
Georgios Rouss

Ntinos Mprentas on 'Dou
ble Penetration', Kleis
oura crag
 
Mark Zaus

Halber Wahnsinn 7b+, Ka
rlstein
 
Chuck Odette

Maggie on Bat Roof full
traverse
 
Chuck Odette

Training session in Mar
io Land, UT
 
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Everyone is going for the Olympics  Facebook
Having talked to most of the top male WC boulderers and many of the coaches, it seems like everyone is going for the Olympics. Nobody, beside the French guys, have started any serious Speed training but many say they will start this winter.

In one way, it is good for the athletes that most give low priority for Speed which make it feel less hard to become a very good Speed climber. On the other side, the French guys did perform relatively bad in Munich which could be explained their broader focus already.

Alexey Rubtsov said specifically that he plan to not train Lead but just Boulder and Speed as it is not a problem to be weak in one discipline if you are good in the other two. The Combined result is calculated by multiplication.
 
Boulder WC Overall  Facebook
1. Jongwon Chon KOR 453 - Shauna Coxsey GBR 560
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 404 - Janja Garnbret SLO 470
3. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 399 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 380
4. Keita Watabe JPN 372 - Miho Nonaka JPN 377
5. Kokoro Fujii JPN 327 - Petra Klingler SUI 290
6. Rei Sugimoto JPN 278 - Stasa Gejo SRB 234
7. Jan Hojer GER 235 - Katja Kadic SLO 227
8. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 232 - Michaela Tracey GBR 190

Five Japanese male in Top-8!
 
Check the backside of fixed quick draws  Facebook
Fixed quick draws are potential death traps as the lower carabiner can get so wear down that it becomes like a knife cutting off a rope. This is something that is quite easy to check. A death trap which is much harder to observe is the webbing being worn down on the back side due to friction against the rock.

In Sweden a climber broke the webbing on a fixed quick draw on a popular crag some weeks ago. Earlier this spring another climber broke the webbing after just many side falls over a lip. Check also the backside of the webbing the next time you see fixed quick draws especially if it has contact with the rock.

A bolter should also have this in mind to never place a bolt which might put the webbing in friction danger. It might also be wise to check your quick draws including the webbing once in a while to check that they are in good shape.
 
Top-10 Apps for Climbing  (5) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureFriction Labs has listed the Top-10 Climbing Apps including commenting Pros and Cons and the first mentioned is Vertical-Life

"Vertical Life is the most well-designed app on this list. It’s pleasing to the eye, features inviting color schemes and photos, and is easy to navigate. Its guide topos (i.e. visual representations of the routes on a wall) are beautifully crafted and easy to follow."
 
Mitterdorf European Youth Cup  Facebook
Heloise Doumont BEL - Stefano Carnati ITA
Sandra Lettner AUT - Andoni Esparta Frade ESP
Camille Pouget FRA - Alberto Gines ESP
Complete results

Interesting is that Spain, that has had poor youth competitions results for many years, was the best nation. In female Youth A, Austria and Slovenia shared the first six positions followed by Laura Rogora from Italy, who was #6 in the Villars World Cup last month. The last few years, Austria has dominated but it seems that some others countries have had great progress.
 
Sendai Vent for trecking/scrambling and super easy climbing  (7) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureI have used the new Sendai Vent from Boreal when I have been setting up easy bolted routes this summer and they are perfect. Instead of using climbing shoes that get painful after an hour or so, I use this in between climbing and trecking shoe. The Sendai Vent is a regular lightweight comfortable approach shoe that you in fact also could use during easy climbing warming up.

For some reason, the shoe industry has not fulfilled this in between segment for the new generation of climbers who do not want to invest in climbing shoes doing some scrambling or climbs graded 3 and 4. More info
 
8b+ greenpoint by all-round expert Jernej Kruder  Facebook
Jernej Kruder is one of the leading multi-discipline climbers in the world who was #2 in the Boulder World Champion in 2014. Last year he did the DWS Es Pontas 9b and he has also done several hard multi-pitches. In the video he does an old bolted 8b+ on trad gear. Next is the Lead World Cup in Arco, followed by the Boulder World Cup in Munich. Later he will also start training Speed in order to try to qualify to Tokyo 2020.

 
175+ male competitors in Munich  Facebook
There are already 287 athletes signed up for the Bouldering World Cup in Munich 18-19/8, out of which 175 male and couning. The deadline is on the 13th.

This is very good news at the same time it means that some guys will have to stay in isolation for possibly eight hours starting from 07.30, without getting any proper meal. At the same time, it could be that the last female will compete until 24:00.

Then the semfinal isolation on Saturday closes at 09:00. Including the additional European separate semifinalist, the last guys out might spend another four hours in isolation. In between the final isolation closes at 17:00, there is also a award semifinal for the European Championships so it just might be that one or two athletes will spend some 10 + 10 hours in the arena before the final starts.

In the future, IFSC need to limit the number of competitors from each country. There are 19 male from Germany and several countries have 6 - 10 guys participating.
 
How to grade up to 4c?  Facebook
Grades are supposed to reflect how hard it is to redpoint a route with the best optimal beta. At the same time, the grades should assist a beginner who is searching a 4a to warm up on, irrelevant how hard it is to redpoint. Further more, if we are talking kids or guys who try out climbing for the first time, also length, reach and potential pendulum swing etc have impact on the perceived difficulty/grade.

In other words, a 25 meter route climbing a bit diagonal on reachy granite will never be perceived as grade two even if an expert never need to use their hands. On the other hand, a seven meter straight up where you always need your hands to pull, could be graded two.

Nevertheless, in practice, the grading for both the 8a as well as the 4a, are done based on the same idea. The success rate and time invested for the community! The only difference is that, the lower you go down in grades, the more the grade should reflect the onsight and flash difficulty.
 
Join the competition sharing interaction  Facebook
It is said that tight cooperation among the Japanese climbers is part of their success. Everyone is participating in the sharing in order to optimize their performance which is also part of the Japanese culture. How the competition climbers cooperates during the observation is also something non-climbers are really fascinated about.

This sharing culture is nice to follow and pick up on the federations Facebook pages. Almost every week, you read about how different nations have had some training sessions or have joined some local competitions.

Another example of this is that four days before the World Cup in Munich, Boulderwelt invites competitors for a pre-comp down in semi mode on four problems. "After the simulation, the route setters will talk you through boulders, explain what their ideas was and give you feedback". It is free of charge and there are still some open space!
 

Laurent Zoutte
On s'pète la ruche 8b, Omblèze

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