Patxi Usobiaga profile presentation  (1) Facebook
 



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8a.nu and Vertical-Life are hiring!  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life is about to redesign and improve the 8a.nu platform. Are you a software engineer and would like to work together with a highly motivated team? Please send your application to
office@vertical-life.info.

Required skills:
- Object oriented programming
- Experience with relational databases
- Basic web development skills (CSS, Javascript, DHTML, HTML)

Desired skill:
- C# / ASP.NET
- Ruby / Ruby on Rails



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Who is your female climbing hero?  (8) Facebook
 




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Who is your male climbing hero?  (6) Facebook
 




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Digital topo for Taragona (Siurana, Margalef etc.)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life Climbing App recently integrated the Tarragona Climbs guidebook by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada in its topo collection. This means that there is now a digital version of the famous climbing guide, which presents some of the major crags of Catalonia, among others Siurana and Margalef.

Tarragona is known to be a treasure trove for sport climbers and one of the most important sport climbing destinations in Europe. A very active climbing community has turned the area into a true climbing mekka for pros and for amateurs alike. The second edition of the guidebook by Pete O’Donovan and Dani Andrada contains more than 100 crags, which represent only part of the huge range of available sectors. However, the authors have taken their choice carefully and made sure to present the most worthwile areas.

The digital guidebook is now available in the Vertical-Life App, where climbers can purchased the full guidebook or smaller chapters. The printed guide will be out by the end of November.



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Anna Stöhr Living Legend Presentation  Facebook
 

 
 
Kranj World Cup sum up  Facebook
 

 
 
Record big IFSC competition season 2018  (1) Facebook
 

Based on the IFSC provisional calendar 2018 it seems there will be a record number of comps during 2018. In total the senior calendar includes seven Lead and Boulder World Cups plus the World Champion. For the juniors, there will be a total of ten Euro Youth Cups in Lead and Boulder, a World Champion and also Olympic Games.

At the same time there are more comps then ever, they are spread out more meaning more travel. For the guys focusing on Tokyo 2020, the schedule is so hectic that it will almost not be possible to do all Boulder and Lead events, without loosing some valuable training time.

Boulder
13/4 Meiringen - Switzerland
21/4 Moscow - Russia (Speed)
5/5 Chongqing - China (S)
12/5 Taian - China (S)
2/6 Tokyo - Japan
8/6 Vail - USA
18/8 Munich - Germany

Lead
6/7 Villars - Switzerland (S)
12/7 Chamonix - France (S)
20/7 Briancon - France
27/7 Arco - Italy (S)
29/9 Kranj - Slovenia
20/10 Wujiang - China (S)
27/10 Xiamen - China (S)

World Championships/Games
6-16/9 Innsbruck - Austria
7-19/7 Central Saanich - Canada: Youth
6-18/10 Buenos Aires - Argentina: Youth A

 
 
Moffatt and Klingler Mental Training  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Is it counterproductive to train Speed before 2020?  (43) Facebook
 

Although nobody agreed on the Combination format in the Olympics, many of the best have said they will go for it or have started trying the other disciplines. However, with the multiplication format it might be counter-productive to seriously train Speed before the qualifications are over.

Most likely, some 20 Speed specialist will try it out, as if you win the Speed and get lucky in Boulder, you just might make it to Tokyo. This means that the very best Speed climber, out of the regular guys focusing on Lead and Boulder, can only get #21 in Speed. On the other hand, training Speed and especially the leg muscles, will most certainly have some negative aspects on Boulder and especially Lead performance.

Here is the math showing that it might be counter-productive to seriously train Speed before the qualifications is over. The base of the analysis is that you drop (at least) one position in Lead and Boulder if you seriously train Speed.

21 (Speed) * 3 * 3 = 189, looses to 47 * 2 * 2 = 188
21 (Speed) * 2 * 5 = 210, looses to 52 * 1 * 4 = 208

Training Speed seriously to become #21 in the World Champion qualification should mean at least 5 hours a week. This will make you gain at least 2 - 4 kilos at the same time you will have less time for training Lead and Boulder as well as getting outdoors. In other words, the guys investing in serious Speed training will loose much more than just one position. This means that the "ordinary" results in the World Cup also will deteriorate and if you can not evolve yourself into an Olympic robot, your mental health and strength will be poor when the qualification starts.

In fact, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra just might have greater chances to win the golds by totally skipping any serious Speed training what so ever. First they will enjoy and have fun winning all the World Cups as many of their competitors will be weaker both physically as well as mentally.

The twist of this counter-productive claim is that in Tokyo, where all the Speed specialists that eat Lead and Boulderers as breakfast, have failed to make it. The #21 Speed guy would finally get turn on his investment winning Speed in the first round where 20 competes. Any how, if Ondra walks the Speed track in 20 seconds and then win Boulder and Speed, he will get an multiplicative score of 6 points. Even if the Speed winner remarkably gets #2 and #3 in Lead and Boulder, he is runner up overall.

1 (Speed) * 2 * 3 = 6, looses to 6 * 1 * 1 = 6 on count back

 
 
9b FA by Adam Ondra in Arco  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra publishes on his Instagram a new FA in Arco, One Slap 9b. First he climbed Stefano Ghisolfi's One Punch (9a+ suggested by him and more in the 9a+/9b range for Ondra) and then he added with local Mauro Mabboni one more bolt to make a harder route.

"After a while, I got to experience the moment when conditions are perfect, my mind is fully aware of it, that influence my state of mind, I climb free and confident, and I have the feeling of ease, flow and joy.
First, I ticked off One Punch in Arco, a great first ascent from @steghiso. He gave it 9a+, but 9a+/b is probably closer to reality. It took me a few days over the last months.
Then we added one more bolt and I made a first ascent of a harder start, calling it One Slap 9b. What a day!"

 
 
Schubert cheering up the crowd before topping out in Kranj  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAmazing moment in Kranj captured by the one and only Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing. Imagine how millions of spectators will get amazed by our sport in Tokyo when climbers cooperate together in isolation and with the crowd fighting for the gold. Do not miss the great interview, starting 55.45 where a smiling Jakob says it is about getting rid of the pressure and just enjoy what you are doing. Mental training at it's best to listen to Jakob!

 
 
Lead overall 2017  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Romain Desgranges 477 - Janja Garnbret 665
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 413 - Jain Kim 525
3. Keiichiro Korenaga 373 - Anak Verhoeven 444
4. Domen Skofic 325 - Jessica Pilz 374
5. Marcello Bombardi 289 - Julia Chanourdie 362
6. Jakob Schubert 265 - Mina Markovic 304
Complete results

 
 
Perfect show ends the 2017 season  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret put on yet another amazing show winning her ninth World Cup victory in 2017 in Kranj. In total, she won six Lead World Cups and in the remaining two she was third. Jain Kim was second and secured her second position also overall. In total, she was Top-4 in all but one event. Molly Thompson-Smith set a new personal best and she is the without any doubt the biggest surprise on the female scene in 2017. Last year she was mainly doing Youth comps but never better than #7. Including in her preparation for Kranj, she did her first 8b+ in Raven Tor this week! (c) Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

1. Jakob Schubert AUT - Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Alex Megos GER - Jain Kim KOR
3. Dmitrii Fakiroanov RUS - Molly Thompson-Smith GBR

Interesting Jakob, who has just done three Lead WCs in 2017, 1 - 3 - 1, explained that part of his success is that he has done less comps and did not feel any pressure. Further more he said he does not follow a strict training schedule. The same goes, in fact, also for the runner-up Megos who prior to Kranj, climbed eight days in a row and did just have time for one gym sessions before Kranj. For Dmitrii it was his first World Cup in 2017.

It should also be mentioned that the commentating with the experience competitions climbers did a great job including great interviews. Complete results

 
 
Kranj Final starts 17.00  Facebook
 

 
 
Record in ties and Hojer and Coxsey to the final  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureThe Kranj semifinal possibly set a new record when it comes to ties. Nine male came to hold 34 out of which seven got a plus and in the end it was the qualification result that decided whether you made it to the final. Romain Desgranges was ninth but was probably satisfied anyhow with this as that made him secure the overall victory. The biggest surprise was Jan Hojer at #5 but other then that, the boulderers had difficulties at the relatively short wall. Last out was Jakob Schubert, who saved the show, by touching and winning the male semifinal.

Among the female, we got four tops and 17 girls on hold 30 or 30,5. When a 0,5 hold is given it normally means that the route setters have missed that a foot hold created an easier sequence. In the end, Akiyo Noguchi was the only one on 30.5+ to make it to the final. The big surprise and very good news was that Shauna Coxsey made it to the final. Complete results (c)Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing

 
 
Kranj World Cup this weekend  (1) Facebook
 

The eight and last stage of the Lead World Cup will take place this weekend in Kranj. Janja Garnbret has already secured the overall title and Romain Desgranges needs to be in Top-15, otherwise Stefao Ghisolfi could get the title.

1. Romain Desgranges 440 - Janja Garnbret 565
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 362 - Jain Kim 445
3. Keiichiro Korenaga 339 - Anak Verhoeven 404
4. Domen Skofic 270 - Jessica Pilz 330
5. Marchello Bombardi 246 - Julia Chanourdie 307

As the Olympics is getting closer, several boulderers will try out Lead; Shauna Coxsey, Stasa Gejo, Jongwon Chon and the Japanese boulderers. Interesting is also that Alex Megos, who won the semi i Arco, will try it again after having prepared himself outdoors in Leonidio.

Saturday 11th November
08:00 Men's Lead Qualification - Updated results
13:00 Women's Lead Qualification - Updated results
20:00 Lead Semi-Finals LIVE-STREAMING

Sunday 12th November
17:00 Lead Finals (LIVE)

 
 
Patxi Usobiaga sends Pachamama 9a+/9b  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePatxi Usobiaga, one of the very best competition climbers in the history has done Pachamama 9a+/b in Oliana. It was put up in 2009 and it has been repeated five times out which some have said it is hard for the grade. Patxi is the first to suggest 9a+/b. Patxi's story of the eight year battle.

Patxi has a special relationship with this route cause back in 2009 was where he got injured his shoulder and months later due to the car crash he stopped climbing for years. Last april Patxi sent again 9a+ with Papichulo and then he tried the route for a while. (c) Javipec

 
 
Megos prepared for Kranj WC mainly in Leonidio  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureListening to the Alex Megos "talkshow" with Klemen Becan at the Leonidio Festival and talked to him and his coach Dicki Korb, the message is clear, it is about enjoying the challenges. They can be served as projects, onsights, WC competitions, training exercises or complicated yoga positions. Megos says he enjoys them all and his trainer underlines that it is about using your creativity to make also the hardest training like a fun challenge.

Tomorrow, Alex is competing in Kranj and meanwhile his opponents have done sessions in their gym to optimize their plastic feeling the last weeks, the 24 year old have enjoyed eight climbing days in a row in Leonidio plus one gym session. Two months ago he competed in Lead in Arco, having just returned from a bouldering trip in Rocklands, and he won the semifinal. (c) Micha Schreiber

- It is also about meeting friends in Kranj that I not meet so often. It will be fun. I have not yet made up my mind if I will go for the Olympics. There are so many things to do. Participating at the Olympics with no commitment makes no sense for me. Therefore I have to bring some sacrifices, bigger than ever before in my climbing. It's a situation where you shouldn't make a rushed decision. Sure I will have great fun challenging the Speed route in the beginning but it will take much more.

The good thing is of course that with the multiplication format, during the qualifications, it will be most important to perform on the highest level in two disciplines. Once you are among the 20 going for the Olympics, the result also in Speed will become more important.

 
 
Hukkataival talks the Lappnor Project 9A  (4) Facebook
 

 
Maggie Odette

Toadstool Traverse (6C)
, Marioland, Utah.
 
Alice Hafer (f)

Beatle Juice 7a+ Franch
ard Cusiniere, Fontaine
bleau
 
Heiko Queitsch

Today I was able to cli
mb -Rehabouldern- fb 7c
the right exit of -Vol
lkontakt- fb 7c a 1st.
ascent I did last week!
! The power comes more
and more back!! Photo:
Chris Rupp
 
Eric Hörst

Cameron Horst sending T
hanatopsis (8c).
 
Nuno Topas Gonçalves

Senhora do Salto,Pangei
a Titânio,8b.
 
Matteo Humar

Falesia del Vauzo, Pali
nuro
 
Araz Rasaee

chicos 7b, Keshar e sof
la
 
Pin Astur

La Marie Rose The firs
t 6a at Fontainebleau
 
Claudia herrmann (f)

Out of the Bleau, V5
 
Georgios Rouss

Ntinos Mprentas on 'Dou
ble Penetration', Kleis
oura crag
 
Miguel espejo

Aquiles 7c, Villanueva
del Rosario
 
Eric Zschiesche

Tiny 8a. Thin vertical
crimping and compressio
n moves,... Sweet stuff
!!
 
Dubard Loïc

CDF 2016 qualifications
 
Unai Martínez Malaxechevarría

The Climb Open Boulder
Festival 2017
 
Nicholas Allan

Cassy 6a+, Rocklands
 
Christian Welkhammer

El Gauhara ss (fb8a/+)
Zillertal, Breitlahner
 
Tomek Zacharewicz

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gabriel Bello

Boulder "Limão - V9"
 
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Javier Iniesta - Batman (sit start) 7c+, Teresa de cofrentes
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Selected Top List ->
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Nice beta on The Dagger 8B (+)  Facebook
 
The 6a to 9c history and the female history  (1) Facebook
Emontana has put together long article including all details how the climbing grades have eveloved from 6a to 9c.

At the same time Climbing has put together a list for female achievements since 1799.
 
Increase Bouldering finalist to 8 or even 12 participants  (6) Facebook
8a has suggested a new bouldering format to IFSC allowing more finalists. The Norweigian Sports manager and National coach Reino Horak, hope to see 12 finalists next year on their national competitions.

- 12 finalists mean that double as many get the opportunity to challenge themselves and have fun in the final. It also means a bigger interest to travel to a competition as many more will hope to be able to do two rounds. It is a waste of route setters time to just allow six guys in the final and further more, the more finalists, the greater chance for tied score and drama on the last boulder. I think all coaches and athletes would agree that more finalists would be more fun.

The simple solution for increasing the # of finalists is simple to make three participants rotate on the first three boulders. After a short break, the Top-6 athletes will make it into the "super final", starting in reversed order. This means an increasing drama where everyone will exactly know what the last guy out needs to do to get the best overall score. When it comes to competition time, the rotating format, including 8 or 9 finalist, will save around 20 minutes. Also though having 12 finalist will not increase the competition time.

8a has also suggested a new point scoring system that will be presented in a few days.
 
La Sportiva Female Legends 25/11  Facebook
La Sportiva Legends Only will take place for the seventh year in a row in Klättercentret in Stockholm 25/11 and it will be a live-streaming. The line up is impressive as always. Shauna Coxsey, Petra Klingler, Staša Gejo, Katja Kadić, Fanny Gibert and Mélissa Le Nevé.
 
Toru Nakajima exploring his lifestyle  Facebook
 
Paul Robinson - Bügeleisen 8B+  Facebook
 
Marcel Remy (94) climbs 450 m and flies tandem down  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMammut has the great story from when Marcel Remy, born 1923, climbed the 450 meter Miroir de l'Argentine in Western Switzerland.

Talking to his son, Claude, one of the most dedicated bolters in the world, he said that the 5b+ grade is a super sand bag. In reality comparing to modern sport climbing it is in fact much harder.

 
Season diagram - Leonidio  (10) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFor every of the 5 000 crags in the 8a data base, you can find a season diagram that can help you to find the best time of the year to visit a specific crag. The upper diagram is from Leonidio which just might have the biggest proportion of winter ascents. Below you have Kalymnos diagram, which shows a stronger concentration during late spring and autumn.
 
Leonidio Climbing Festival 2017  Facebook
 
Leonidio - The best winter destination  (13) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFor several years, we have ranked the best winter destinations in Europe and last year we said Leonidio is #1. The weather statistics from he last 10 years show rather stable weather with around 10 degrees with many sunny days and few rainy days, even if January 2017 was pretty bad. Climbing wise, there are 1 300 routes divided in some 60 sectors including many multi-pitches. We stayed at Troumpas close to the see who also is a farmer. Climb in Leonidio (c) Sam Bié

As Leonidio is like 3.5 hours from the airport, I very nice option is to stop at Nafplio halfways with great climbing mainly up to 7a in great scenary. The picturesque city and the old fortress makes the visit even better.

45 min south of Leonidio, you will find Kapsala with an amazing red wall packed with high quality routes around 7a. If you continue 30 minutes more you reach Kyparissi which is a beautiful village by the see surrounded with walls with just a couple of minutes approach. Hotel Paraliako is 150 metres from the small harbour and 500 meters from a nice sector with 30 routes in the sixth grade. They try to become the center of climbing and plans to build a warming up wall etc.

In Kyparissi, you also have Babala which is the best hard core sector in Greece and in reality a future world class wall 7c and above. Kyparissi (876 ascents) is #1 in the world's trend crag rating followed by Leonidio (6 405 ascents).
 

Charles Capron

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