Chon and Coxsey win in India  Facebook
 

Jongwon Chon and Shauna Coxsey won the Boulder World Cup in Indian which were their second in a row victory. They both also won the semifinal and had secured their gold before they did the last boulder just before the 4 minutes so the event finished in the best way possible.

1. Shauna Coxsey GBR - Jongwon Chon KOR
2. Miho Nonaka JPN - Rei Sugimoto JPN
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN - Alexey Rubtsov RUS
Complete results

The Japanse domination continued overall and five out of the Top-8 male respectively three out of the Top-5 were Japaneses.



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Bouldering training with different partners and style is best both physically and mentally  Facebook
 



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WC Bouldering in India live on 25/6  Facebook
 

Live streaming from Mumbai in India on 25/6 GMT - 5.30
09:00-11:15 Men and Women Semi-Finals
17:30 Men and Women Finals

As Janja Garnbret does not participate as she prepares for the next weekends European Championships in Italy, Shauna Coxsey only needs to ne #9 to secure the overall title. Among the male, Alexey Rubtsov is in the lead, followed by Chon, Watabe, Narasaki and Fujii who all have great chances of winning.

The Japaneses continue their domination with seven out of twenty qualified to the semifinal and all ten in the team was Top-25. Complete results



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8C barefoot again by Charles Alber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarefoot Charles comes with the impressive news on Facebook that he has done another 8C barefoot, Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands. Fred Nicole set it up in 2002 calling it 8B+ but the handful that have repeated it have all agreed to upgrade it.



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30 m ground up DWS 8b+ by Chris Sharma  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has established a 30 m DWS 8b+ ground up which he says is one of the best routes of his life. (c) Giancola Foto

"The Pont d'Arc is an absolute dream line. It's hard to believe something like this even exists! After 4 days trying from the ground up and taking some big falls I was finally able to link to through the arch. It tops out at around 30 meters on the far side of the arch (that you can't see in the photo). A perfect line, on perfect rock in a perfect location. It's hard to get more perfect haha."

Wow, but how dangerous was this?
You know I have a family so I would never do anything really dangerous. I did jump of several times to check the landing and the impact at most up from probably 25 meters.



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Jungle Boogie 9a+ by Alex Megos  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos does his third 9a+ during just the last week by Jungle Boogie in Cëûse. Amazingly he did it on his first day on after having tried it for 15 minutes three years ago. "The video of Stefano Ghisolfi motivated me to try this route again after 3 years! One of the goals of my trip is done!" (c) Liam Lonsdale. Vertical-Life has just presented a new digital version of the Céüse guidebook by Laurent Girousse, Arnaud Petit and Rolland Marie.

 
 
Outdoor: Shoes, ropes, belay devices, and innovations  Facebook
 

The 2017 edition of the Outdoor in Friedrichshafen was the most impressive out of all 8a have visited. There is a strong feeling that the climbing industry is doing well and that everyone wants to have a bite of the cake and it is especially about shoes for different segments.

Both Black Diamond and Wild Country launched their shoe line and most of the the established shoe producers presented new models with a greater focus on comfortable gym shoes, female shoes as well as more extreme softer shoes. Just on Outdoor there were about a dozen shoe brands presented. A logical next step for the manufacturers would probably be to continue this trend of comfort to produce a hybrid shoe in between a normal running and a climbing shoe that you never take off during the whole gym session including coffee break. For the kids, La Sportiva has already done it with their climbing sandals for kids where you also get stickers and Ondra cartoons in a package.

Many producers also presented their new or updated semi-locking belay device. In practice, this means safer and possibly also cheaper semi-locking device that will push traditional belay gear out of the market.

When it comes to innovations, the scary Escaper from Beal where you can first rapell and then pull down the full 60 meter length of your rope was most extreme. Other than that Edelrid did, as always, present some cool new things. Tendon has a new technology TeFIX which permanently bonds the sheath to the core. We will present more details later of everything that was interesting at Outdoor.

 
 
Beal Esacaper - Scary magic to rappel and pulling 60 meter rope  (9) Facebook
 

 
 
Dramatic traffic increase for 8a  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAccording official statistics on Similarweb, 8a has doubled up the traffic during the last four month and for the first time ever, we are now higher ranked than both Rock & Ice and Climbing.

Interestingly, most of the traffic for our competitors come through links on Google and Facebook etc. The 8a visitors, instead, actively write www.8a.nu in the browser in order to get to 8a. Here is a "direct" traffic comparison including also showing that half of the traffic for our main competitors come from their country of origin. At the same time the 8a visitors are evenly spread around the world.

82 % 8a.nu: Traffic spread evenly around the globe
36 % UKC: Traffic 59 % from UK
26 % Planet Mountain: Traffic 59 % from Italy
24 % R & I: Traffic 49 % from USA
24 % Climbing: Traffic 46 % from USA

It should also be noted that 8a is only focusing on sport climbing meanwhile our competitors cover and get visitors interested in all climbing disciplines.

 
 
19th 8B by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Alex Puccio, who was #4 in the Vail WC has done her 19th 8B, Bear Toss in RMNP. She has also done two 8B+ and she is the female who has done most hard core boulders in the world.

 
 
Ondra: Create your own boulders  Facebook
 

 
 
Teaser of Ondras's Project Hard 9c?  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra has finally set up the website AdamOndra.com where we found this video and plenty of insight info including amazing pictures.

 
 
Beta site updates  (11) Facebook
 

It's now possible to add new ascents using the beta site! We've added a quick-add option so it's easy to add new ascents when you're at the crag.

Read the full newsletter here

Check out the beta site

 
 
Google Earth presents Yosemite  Facebook
 

 
 
We have ordered more server capacity  (3) Facebook
 

Lately, the response time surfing on 8a has been rather slow. We have asked our server provider to increase the capacity so that problem should be solved soon.

 
 
Coxsey and Chon win in Vail  Facebook
 

Shauna Coxsey, who won the Worldcup in 2016, won her third event this year and in practice she has almost secured the overall title 2017. Among the males, Jongwon Chon, who won overall in 2015 got his second win in 2017 and he is #2 in 2017, counting all but one events.

1. Shauna Coxsey GBR - Jongwon Chon KOR
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN - Meichi Narasaki JPN
3. Miho Nonaka JPN - Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
4. Alex Puccio - Alexey Rubtsov RUS
Complete results

It should be noted that Japan participated with ten male and in the qualifications, they had nine in Top-10. In the semifinal, they had seven in the Top-10. The Japanese domination is a trend that has been going on for a couple of years.

 
 
Liam Vance flashes Sky 8B  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLiam Vance, who previously has done four 8B's, does his fifth through a great flash of Sky in Rocklands which originally was put up as an 8B+. Instagram video

"Sky was a boulder I dreamed about trying for 8 years or so since I first saw it on video. It suites me very well as I like to climb dynamically and I'm pretty tall. Still I didn't think I could flash it until I somehow stayed on the rock through the second swing and stuck the final jug. I'm still shocked that my 8 year dream came true with a flash."

 
 
Ondra: Easier to solo a 9a than Freerider 8a  (1) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra says on Facebook, "We can only discuss whether the free-solo climbing is good or not, whether we should write about it or not… Anyway, it takes tremendous amount of courage to free-solo “Freerider”. From my point of view, it is easier to solo 9a sport route than this one."

 
 
9 male japaneses Top-10 in qually  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapan has dominated the Boulder WC in 2017 but in Vail some kind of record was set with 9 male Top-10.

On Saturday, the live-streaming starts at 10.00 with the semifinal and the final will take place 16.30, GMT-6. Male qualification results will be updated here and female here.

 
 
9a (8c+) by Julia Chanourdie  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJulia Chanourdie, who was #8 in the lead WC last year, reports on Facebook that she has done Stefano Ghisolfi's Hell'Avaro 9a (8c+) in Tetto di Sarre. Earlier this year she did her first 9a as well as being #2 in the French bouldering championship so she is one of the very few that can perform world class in many disciplines. On the picture is also her climbing partner Ghislain Pipers who did L'Avaro 8c+.

 
Robert De lafondue

Sing While you May, Tar
gassonne
 
Chuck Odette

maggie sky dancing her
way up don't mess with
texas
 
David Palanjyan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Rick Carpenter

Get in Yer Box 7b+, Loo
king glass
 
Klaus Haaken

Basti clean onsight in
Le Mitard, 8-.
 
Climb in Kymi

Antonis Anyfantakis enj
oying the onsight of 'H
ippocles', Katavolo cra
g, Kymi
 
Arthur (Mylos)

Rambo Haze 7a+, Lapa do
seu antao
 
Leo Bøe

Sátiva Patática 8a, Mar
galef
 
Koen Baekelandt

Chamonix bad night 7c+,
Freyr
 
Szőcs Károly-Csaba

Supernova 7C, Magic Woo
d
 
Jonathan Guadalcázar

Cantosaurio 8c+, Crevil
lent
 
Eric Hörst

When I was a young girl
I had me a cowboy 7c+,
Wild Iris
 
Vladimír Calda

Chopman 8A, Korzár, New
Project
 
Jorge diaz-rullo

Haciendo el blocazo "el
australiano" en Zarzal
ejo.
 
Gocha Bożek

Sokoban 7a, Bor
 
Bernhard Schwaiger

STRESSED OUT, Hohe Taue
rn
 
Bernhard Schwaiger

BURNOUT, Hohe Tauern
 
Eduard Vendrell

Font picant 8a, Camaras
a
 
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Tj Ovesen - Moon Hill
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Coxsey has secured the overall title  Facebook
1. Shauna Coxsey 480 - Jongwon Chon 412
2. Janja Garnbret 370 - Alexey Rubtsov 365
3. Miho Nonaka 340 - Keita Watabe 332
4. Akiyo Noguchi 316 - Tomoa Narasaki 324
5. Petra Klingler 243 - Kokoro Fujii 280
Complete results

Shauna Coxsey has already secured the overall title also in 2017. Among the boys, if Rubtsov win the last event in Munich, Chon needs to make it to the podium to beat him. In theory, it is good enough for Rubtsov if he is #3 in the last event, Chon needs to be at worst #10. Also Watabe can win if he wins the last event but then it is good enought for Chon to be #9.
 
Verhoeven thinks the Euro Champs in Bouldering should be cancelled  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureJorg Verhoeven has presented an article on Facebook where he points out fairness problems for the European Championships in Bouldering as it takes part during the World Cup in Munich. (c) Heiko Wilhelm

With the current domination of male Japanese boulderers it just might be that the Euro podium will be decided during the semifinal. Further more, if you are unlucky to end up in a qualifier with many Japaneses you could end up as #3 out of the Europeans but still not make the semi. In the other group there just might be seven Europeans qualified.

Verhoeven: "In conclusion, there seems to be no way to have a fair bouldering ECH within a worldcup, that's why in my opinion the better solution would be to have no ECH at all."

Good points by Verhoeven but I think it is too late to make any changes or to cancel the European Championship. In practice, this unfairness problem for ending up in a tougher qualifier already exist and is part of the game. During the first WC in 2017 Meiringen, the only one in Europe so far, the Top-7 ranked come all from the group B. Yuka Hada from Japan was #11 in group B and if he had competed in the other, not so strong group A, he would probably have made it to the semi.

As a matter of a fact, the best guy from group A did just do one top in the semi, meanwhile seven in group B did two boulders or more. Another example showing the unfairness with having two starting groups is that Moroni was seventh overall, but nevertheless he had almost identical result as #10 in the qualifier as #11 Hada from Japan.
 
Failure and success for Cardwell on La Rambla and Papichulo  Facebook
Jon Cardwell spent some three weeks including 30 tries on La Rambla but no success.

"It was very hard for me, mostly because I arrived to Spain with poor endurance. It was good training for Oliana (Papichilo) though! More than anything, it was a mental challenge for me as I kept falling at a single move, just before the main crux.

it would be my opinion that with current standards, to climb to the move where you stab for a left hand two-finger pocket is most certainly a 9a; roughly where the original climb ends. What remains, with the best beta, is no more than 7c route in-itself. However, people have fallen past this move to the pocket. Most certainly an impressive ascent in 1994? And one of the most difficult routes in the world at that time.

 
Mental training with Adam Ondra  Facebook
 
Tendon: Permanent connection between core and sheet  Facebook
When the sheath/mantle breaks on your rope, the core like 12 strings appear which is scary and dangerous. Now Tendon has invented a technique where the strings are permanently bonded with an extra sheath/mantle.
 
Joker Plus from Boreal  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureJoker Plus is presented among Boreal's "Comfortable" shoes and the 2017 version has an updated fit and rubber compound. The 8a testers have said that this is the most comfortable shoe that they have ever used. As soon as you put it on you will notice the soft padding in the front of the shoe which will make you feel like you have a sock on your foot.

Also the heel is padded and below it you have the cushioned heel system which will make boulder landings softer. This anti-impact system feels similar to what is found in running shoes when we actually tried to run with the climbing shoes. This shoe you can use comfortably for an all day session. If you decide to go for smaller size, it is easy and fast to take off and on with the three opposing straps.

Even for the advanced climber who mistreat their feet, this could be like a present for the feet, while warming up or doing laps in the indoor gym.
 
Also Schubert complain about route setting  (5) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMany have complaint about the trend with less steep and parkour route setting in Boulder World Cups which we also did see especially in the qualification in Vail. Jakob Schubert has expressed it nice on his Facebook. (c) Wilhelm Heiko

"3 out of 5 boulders were slabs and only one boulder was pure fitness on holds, some might say that's the new style of bouldering, but in my opinion it's bad setting. Bouldering shouldn't only be about standing on your feet.. When you are done with Qualification and feel like you haven't even climbed today since no boulders were exhausting at all it just feels wrong to me.

I like to fight in boulders, feel the physical strain. Sure slabby boulders are part of the game but they shouldn't be the most important thing in my opinion. Crimps, slopers, pinches, big moves, campusing, jumps, coordination, toe hooks, heel hooks, power endurance,...there are so many things, that's what I love about this sport.

To be fair, it was difficult for the routesetters because the wall in Vail is not great and they did a very good job in both semis and finals. But still I wanna shout out to all routesetters to try to set more diverse in the future in all rounds and especially also in Qualifiers, I don't think the randomness that some Qualification rounds had are good for this sport. there shouldn't be only crimpy boulders nor only volume boulders nor only slabby ones.. lately holds have fallen out of favor and huge volumes that look cool have taken over, but a mix of both of them would be the best in my opinion.

The style of a lot of boulders has nothing to do with rock climbing anymore, that's a fact, whether you think it's good or bad is a matter of opinion. In my opinion some funky boulders are definitely fun, but I don't think we should forget the origins of this sport! Peace!"
 
Achievement list most get (grade) updated  Facebook
In the same way as Bernabe Fernandez's Chilam Balam has been taken away from the 9b+ pedestal and listing, everyone who presents Hall of Fame ascents and lists must try to keep them correct based on confirmed down- or up-gradings. Today, many such lists are dead wrong and are misleading and spread grade inflation. Further more, it discredits all the honest guys that give personal grades.

Surely, based on the subjectivity of grading and that holds can break and get polished, it is impossible to know when to draw the line and kick out a previous mentioned ascent. In such cases, it is possible and necessary to just make a note or put them on a pending list.
 
The Classics - Boulder EP#1 Midnight Lightning  Facebook
Ron Kauk did the FA of Midnight Lightning in 1978 and here he shares the story from back then.
 
Honnold's achievement is truly unique and should not be compared  (43) Facebook
Evening Sends says that probably Honnold's free-solo is the greatest sport achievement ever.

I am very sorry but this is really stupid to say something like this. Honnold did it for the challenge and absolutely not for being compared to other sports achievement. Such a statement by Andrew Bisharat is just embarrassing for everyone involved. Physically and technically, it is like running 100 meters on 10.5 seconds.

Just imagine how uncomfortable Honnold would be during an award ceremony for the "greatest sport achievement ever", sitting next to; Usain Bolt, Christiano Ronaldo, Michael Jordan, Michael Phelps, Wayne Gretzky and others that have won at least five Olymic Golds or have set five world records.

Bisharat's statement might encourage others to do the same to be superior to the above mentioned athletes. We should just salute Honnold's achievement as truly unique and absolutely not compare it with others.
 

samson yannick
sex is violent 7c, Eptingen

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