8c+ in Flatanger by Paige Claassen  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaige Claasen reports on Facebook that she has done Odin's Eye 8c+ in Flatanger, after some ten days of projecting. On the picture from Trainingbeta she is on the, "burly undercling sequence that I struggled to link even from the hang.

Paige, who was #14 in the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, has previously done Just do it 8c (+). So it seems she very well knows how to handle both 3D climbing as well wall climbing at crimpers. More info at her website

On her Instagram she has added, Now I can move on to my secondary project of trash cleanup around the crag - the global climbing community should be embarrassed by all the trash that is tucked beneath that talus field. We're all to blame, as it's easy to accidentally leave things behind, but c'mon folks. We can definitely do a better job to keep our crags trash free!



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9a+ and 9a FAs by Adam Ondra  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Instagram that he has done a 9a+ FA in Flatanger, which starts from Thor's Hammer 1, 9a (+). The 80 meter link up makes for a new 9b+ project. ( c) Bernando Gimenez

On his way home, Adam stopped in Hell, a small village just located by Trondheim airport, where he did the FA of Hello 9a. In total the 24 year old, has now done 134 routes 9a and harder. The runner up, Alex Megos, has done almost half as many.



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Lucas de Jesús: "We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020"  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureUniversity student (although candidate to firefighter if his diopters don't get increase), Lucas de Jesús is one of the young spanish crushers that send 9a's. After a successful summer in Rodellar, he answers some questions about his workday routine to send his first 9a. (C) Guillermo Domínguez

Looks like 2017 is your year, isn't it?
I think that 2017 is the more I have ever climbed. I moved to study in Huesca last september and since february I have been climbing 4-5 days per week. I almost stop with the gym just to be focused outdoors and climb everywhere around. During the summer I've been woriking in Rodellar and I could climb everytime I wasn't wornking.

Did you clearly think to climb a 9a when you started climbing of was it just 'accidental'?
I couldn't believe it. Two years ago I was still talking with my friends about 9a's as something out of our range. It was something big and I never had the courage to try once. This suited me and it was just be stubborn and persistent.

What about Olympics, do you fancy?
I love the idea about the climbing scene into the Olympics because it will bring many advantages to this sport, but the format is a mistake because in Speed there will be not seen anybody climbing that 15m wall in 6 seconds, and the same in Boulder and Lead. Can you imagine a non-disciplines athletic championships where a guy like Usain Bolt is out of the final cause he wasn't good in marathon? Maybe is excessive, but in many ways is the same.

And of course that I would like to go, but I think that I will watch it on TV.. I'm realist and I know it will not happen cause in Spain there are a lot of climbers with a level above mine and in addition they're focused on it. We need to push the youngsters for Tokyo 2020."



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Adidas Rockstar - Best of  Facebook
 



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Puccio and Narasaki excel at Adidas Rockstar  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio, who just won the Arco Rockmaster after having prepared in Magic Wood, did again in Adidas Rockstar. She was in the lead after the two first boulders where three out of six were eliminated and she was in the lead in before the superfinal. In the interview she said that after some competition break she has come back with a, "free spirit and stronger mentality."

Last year, Tomoa Narasaki won after having done the super final boulder in 14 seconds and this year, he did it in 16 seconds. Also the Japanese lead after all rounds coming into the super final. From the complete results we can see that among the 6 + 6 finalists, 3 + 3 of them where from Japan. In total, only Shauna Coxsey from a country in western Europe and she was tied at last place.

Overall, the Adidas Rockstar was again a huge success for the organzer and 3 500 in the crowd, as well as the athletes, enjoyed it to the fullest. The six route setters did, as almost always in bouldering comps nowadays, a perfect job.



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Filip Schenk (16): World Champion in Boulder climbs everything  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFilip Schenk, who got a gold in Boulder and silver in Combined at YWC, flashing all the eight final boulders, lives in Val Gardena high up in the middle of the Dolomite mountains. In the picture Filip is flashing a light after having climbed a multi-pitch that starts from his village. Thomas Monsorno

- I started climbing when I was six years old and the first years we went out rock climbing every weekend up in the mountains and sometimes also multi-pitches. Once I started to train for competition less outdoors but I always have also some outdoor projects.

During this summer he has been in Magic Woods where he did two 8B's and flashed Jack's Broken Heart. The week before the YWC he went to Frankenjura where he did an 8c.

- I train mainly in my home gym also because it is not easy to find the time because we had many comps this summer. I normally train about 5 times a week and there for 2 till 4 hours, it depends always from what I have to do. I often do endurance and power exercise or also just trying boulders and routes.

It was really nice and also interesting to compete in the combined because it was something new. Also if I have to say that I like the individual disciplines more but maybe I will change opinion with some more speed training! For the youth Olympics I will for sure do some more speed training. Before Innsbruck I haven't done much speed maybe about 10 sessions. Tokyo would be for sure nice but also quite difficult that I can go because of the low number of participants but I will definitely try it!

 
 
8c+/9a DWS FA by Chris Sharma  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Sharma reports on Instagram that he has made the FA of Big Fish 8c+/9a on Mallorca with the crux 20+ meters above the Mediterranean sea. When it comes to DWS, Sharma is the master of both grade and beauty, including the FA of Es Pontas 9b and his recent 8b+ above a river. (c) Joao Giacchin

- I actually scoped it like 12 years ago. Last year I climbed part of the line but with an easier finish so this year was great to take it up a couple steps and finish the complete line. I did work it out on a rope. Without bolts I had to do some very creative aid climbing to get in to the holds and try the moves. Anyways of course it's high and I fell several times at the very top but I don't want this to be seen as a crazy reckless activity. The mentality is very similar to bouldering and once you test out the falls you gain more confidence but still always have to be somewhat in control.

 
 
Nalle does the FA of The Finnish Line 8C/+  Facebook
 

 
 
The Japanese show that Power and Endurance are less important  (30) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIt seems like the new route setting mainly on volumes goes hand-in-hand with the recent extreme progress for the Japanese national teams. Previously, route setting with smaller holds and more obvious solutions, seems to more have favored power in Bouldering and endurance in Lead.

Climbing on volumes means instead that your technical, tactical and mental skills are challenged more. It is not good enough to be the strongest any longer. If there are volumes ahead of you, you need a bigger repertoire of moves and to be able to make intuitive decisions how to find rests and clip in strange positions. It is about going for the next unknown hold dynamically, losing balance and just keep going, rather than doing an obvious hard lock-of static cross over closed crimp move and then rest for 30 seconds on some jugs.

In fact, the Japanese coaches have said that power and endurance are what they focus on least. Instead, they just to go for as many challenges as possible, having fun jumping around above the madras. This also goes along with the Japanese culture focusing on improvements and continuous cooperation. If the coaches see that an athlete lack a particular strength, they just build and recommend doing such moves rather than start lifting weights.

The sweet thing is of course that once all gyms around the world have more volumes and walls with more different angles, climbing will become even more fun to watch, we might see less closed crimp finger injuries for the youth and it will be more fun to train in order to become the Olympic Champion. We are back to the roots - Monkey swinging climbing! (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Paraclimber World Champion Urko Carmona does 8a+ and 7c+ onsight  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOne legged World Champion Urko Carmona has done Mal de Amores in Rodellar, which is his first 8a+. During his summer trip around some Spanish crags, he also did his first 7c+ onsight, in a new area in Cantabria. (C) Beto Abad

"This year I also did one of my hardest routes, Mal de Amores 8a+ in Rodellar. It was one of my goals for 2016. It is for sure one of my hardest because is 40m long, with a few hard boulder problems and endurance with just a few goodish rests. I guess that trying this route gave me the strength, endurance and trust to onsight the 7c+. I have been always close to do 8a or 7c+ onsight, but I just could do it on my second go. I'm very happy. "

 
 
9a+ FA by Anak Verhoeven  (34) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnak Verhoeven, #2 in the World Cup last year and winner of the European Champion in 2017, reports that she has done the FA of Sweet Neuf 9a+ in Pierrot Beach, which is a link up of an 9a and a 8c/+. She did the FA of the 9a, Sang Neuf, last week. The route then goes and links the second pitch of Home Sweet Home.

This is the first time ever a female does a 9a as well as a 9a+ FA. Margo Hayes was the first female who did 9a+ with L Rambla last year. Anak has previously done 22 routes 8c and harder including Era Vella which most think is 9a. (c) Sébastien Richard

- Last year in April, after I had done the FA of Ma Belle Ma Muse, I tried Sang Neuf (9a) for about 3 climbing days, but had to leave the project due to bad weather. Although very overhanging, the moves are very technical with bad footholds. The move between the second and the third quickdraw is very far and you need a good belayer because if you fall you end up quite close to the ground.

At that time I was able to do all the moves but not every time I tried them. Especially the last boulder move before the chain, with an extreme shoulder move, was so hard that I wondered if I would ever be able to do it after I had already climbed the rest of the route. Before leaving the place, my mother had filmed all the sequences so that, in case I would come back, I would remember the moves and not have to spend too much time working out the route again.

 
 
Marcel Remy (94) has done a 12 pitches 5b+  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarcel Remy, over 94 years old, has climbed the north-west of Miroir de l'Argentine, 450 m high, 12 pitches, 5b+with his two sons and friends. Mammut will make a video about the ascent as well as how he came down flying a dual-parapente. The film will also include climbing from Kalymnos and Leonidio where he is a frequent guest.

 
 
Very impressive and Olympic promising Youth Worlds  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Youth World Championship in Innsbruck was a huge success for the organizers, IFSC and competition climbing. The new route setting style mainly based on volumes and the great live streaming made it really fun to watch. Many of the youngsters showed that they are well ahead of the seniors in Speed and maybe a dozen of them will actually make it to Tokyo. It should also be mentioned that it seemed just one climber was timed out based on the new 6 minute rule.

In regards the results, the team from Japan, USA and Russia totally dominated at the same time as the mid European countries got relatively poor results. In the last two YWC Japan did get one gold each and this year they got eight golds and a total of 24 medals! USA has gotten almost as nice of progress.

Improvements are possible when it comes to false start in Speed which create total anti-climax. One easy solution is to add about two seconds for a false start so some excitement can be kept. As it is called and defined as the best Combined climber, it would be better if the ranking for each disciplines were added instead of multiplied. As it stands, it is more important to be excellent in one or two disciplines instead of being very good in all three.

Things that have to be fixed is to show time in Lead and also to mark up the boulders so there are no more confusing misunderstandings how to top out. (c) Eddie Fowke - Collin Duffy tops out and wins Youth B was one of the highlights. Fast forward to 1:07:30 on the video.

 
 
Second Combined gold for Austria  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSandra Lettner won the Youth A category ahead of Ashima Shirashi who for the first time in a Youth comp did not stand on the top of the podium. Sandra has not yet competed in the World Cup but she has won the European Youth Cup in 2017 in both Lead and Boulder.

1. Sandra Lettner AUT 10 * 1 * 4 = 40 (S * B * L)
2. Ashima Shiraishi USA 13 * 4 * 1 = 52
3. Brooke Raboutou USA 9 * 3 * 5 = 135
Complete results - (c) Eddie Fowke.

 
 
Sam Avezou wins through his Speed  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSam Avezou from France won the Combined Youth in a dramatic final climbing faster than Filip Schenk to their scoring 37+. If Filip, who started last, had controlled hold 38, he would have won. Sam is, among the ones performing in all three disciplines, the world's fastest Speed climber, 7.51 and a contender for a medal in Tokyo 2020.

1. Sam Avezou FRA 3 * 7 * 2 = 42
2. Filip Schenk ITA 15 * 1.5 * 3 = 67.5
3. Peter Ivanov BUL 6 * 3 * 4 = 72
Complete results

It should be noted that in Youth A, the Top-20 from all disciplines competed as it was also a qualification for the Top-13 to the Youth Olympic Games in Argentina in 2018. In the Olympics, the Combined event will finish with a final with Top-6 from the semifinal. (c) Eddie Fowke.

 
 
Junior Combined Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Youth B Combined highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Olympic candidates in male Juniors  Facebook
 

1. Meichi Narasaki JPN 1 * 1 * 4 = 4
2. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN 2 * 2 * 1 = 4
3. Kai Lightner USA 3 * 3 * 3 = 9
Complete results

Japan took another double victory followed by a bronze for USA in Junior male Combined. As all three guys, in fact, are very good Speed climbers performing in between 8.00 to 8.74 seconds, chances are high that some of them will also compete in Tokyo 2020.

A highlight of the competition was when Ogata, in his normal yo-yo style, finished one boulder on his 11th attempt. Measuring how many attempts, i.e. training, he puts in when he does not top, as well as his senior WC results, he should already now be pointed out as a contender for a medal in Tokyo.

 
 
Another Japanese tripple in female Youth B  Facebook
 

In Lead and Boulder, the Japanese Youth B girls got all six medals and in the Combined event they did it again. The final finished by Natsuki and Ai topping out as they also did in the Lead final.

1. Tani Natsuki JPN 1 * 2 * 1.5 = 4.5
2. Mori Ai JPN 5 * 1 * 1.5 = 7.5
3. Ito Futaba JPN 2 * 3 * 3 = 18
Complete results

Pictures and full report at Austria Climbing

 
 
Japan and USA win again and again...  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN - Claire Buhrfeind USA
2. Meichi Narasaki JPN - Aika Tajima JPN
3. Kai Lightner USA - Heloise Doumont BEL
4. Taito Nakagami JPN - Victoria Perkins USA
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

The result says it all. The Youth World Championship is just about to become a Japan and USA battle in Lead and Bouldering. Japan has gotten six golds and USA five. Talking about number of medals, Japan has been awarded by 17 and USA 9. Europe, who always has dominated the Youth World Championships, has just one gold and a total of ten medals.

In the Youth World Champion in 2015 in Arco, Japan got six medals in total out of which one gold. Europe got eight golds and a total of 24 medals. The tables have completely turned in just two years. It should also be mentioned that while the best nations in Europe often have participated with six guys in each category, Japan has just participated with 2 - 4 athletes in each category.

 
Markus Adamaszek

Zig zag, Fb 7a bloc, Al
barracín
 
Nikolay Manuylov

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Michael Alégoët

Recherche en platernité
acte 2 7a+, Fontainebl
eau
 
Dubard Loïc

Bataille cok - 7C/V9, R
avine des Avirons
 
K Wierzchu

Bastard 7A+
 
Dave Ayton

Carbide 7A, Fairhead
 
Nicolas Telford

The Stimulator 7c, Rock
lands
 
Adam Cook

Mental Warfare (5.12d)
 
Bastian Wagner

Totem Pole 7b, Tasmania
Bastio in P1
 
Tj Ovesen

Moon Hill
 
Ema Seliškar

Vaya con dios 8a, Šegin
ov potok
 
Rick Carpenter

The Wave, V1: Captain C
ook Recreation Area
 
Antônio Sérgio Monteiro

Red label v6 no setor 1
do Oriente.
 
Furkan Akkaya

Chain Erection 8a
 
Moi Barea

tonsai ( tailandia ) ta
mtrum 8a+
 
Russ Timothy

What's the secret to lo
oking adorable? Climbin
g hard, wearing purple
pants, and rocking wome
n's Solutions
 
Eric Hörst

Cameron Horst sending T
hanatopsis (8c).
 
Camilla Moroni

Première 7c+, Seynes
 
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Fred Moix doing Greenspit 8b+ trad  Facebook
 
Mina's accident might change harness design  (6) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk was taken to hospital two weeks ago after a bad up-side-down fall on Rainshadow 9a. She is OK now and has said it was probably due to the harness being too big for her.

Having watch the video and talking to Mina, who wants to spread awareness, here are five factors, beside the size, that possibly had some impact on why she turned up-side-down.

Falling and rotating sideways:
Prior to the fall she was standing high on her right foot. As she fell she rotated to the right with her right foot still high up. As the rope caught her, her right hip had turned almost sideways to the wall, still having her leg high.

Tie-in point moved towards her right hip:
The up-side-down fall could possibly be explained by her tie-in point had moved some 10+ cm sideways towards her right hip. A couple of the cm can be explained by her harness being over sized but most of the movement of the tie-in point were probably due to: long elastic leg loops (2) and the very long and loose strap under the tie-in point (1). See picture.

Body type, bolt placement and belay:
Further more, as Mina is 170 cm and 57 kilo with relatively small hips and rather broad shoulders, her upper body including her head is placed far out from her center of gravity. The bolt was placed midways out in a roof and as she fell standing from the lip further out of it, the rope dragged her inwards. Lastly, the belay was normal meaning it could have been more dynamic.

Lessons-learned could be: In order to avoid having the tie-in point moving towards the hip, harnesses should have shorter elastic leg-loops which also should include warnings. The elastic leg-loop is in one way misleading as you think it fits when it is in reality maybe five cm too big. In practice, it would be great with in between sizes if you can not adjust the leg loops. Further more, the producers should reduce the length of the distance from the leg loop to the tie-in point (3) as well as make the tie-in point (1) more narrow.
 
European Youth Championships (B) - Slany (CZE)  Facebook
Jan-Luca Posch AUT - Franziska Sterrer AUT
Peter Ivanov BUL - Elena Krasovskaia RUS
Paul Jenft FRA - Naile Meignan FRA
Complete results

Overall, France and Austria were the best nations and Slovenia continues the trend with relatively poor results. Interesting was that the results in between the qualification and the final were up-side-down. The six winners qualified to the final as 4.2, meaning that they started early and had the advantage with fresh holds. None of the qualification winners, won also the final. Instead, they placed on average 3.2 in the final.
 
Adidas Rockstar - Livestreaming 20.15 on Saturday  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMore info atAdidas Rockstar.
 
Down climbing holds in Stockholm  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKlätterverket in Stockholm follows the trend in Stockholm to put up holds you can down climb boulders in order to avoid problems in knees and the back etc.
 
How Aliens are made  Facebook
 
Floodlight from Outdoor Research  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureWaterproof down jackets are a rare breed. The 800+ fill power down of the Floodlight Jacket is utterly undaunted by wet weather and storm, thanks to the completely seam-taped Pertex Shield+ shell-material. The updated Floodlight also includes 20 % more RDS-certified (Responsible Down Standard) down for increased insulation, and is slightly longer at the hem for more coverage. This jacked should do the trick keeping you warm resting in between attempts in prime winter conditions.
 
Mobråten does Shantaram 8B+ (C)  Facebook
 
Ondra: Programs can add pressure and take away the fun  Facebook
Climbing has made an interview with Adam Ondra who did not have trainer nor did he follow a program when when he was a teenager. He just climbed and he did not want to sacrifice anything.

"I think many kids these days have climbing programs when they’re young. That adds pressure and takes away fun. I didn’t have that; I just climbed with my feeling and fun and developed an approach. It’s much more important to develop the right climbing technique, which only happens when a kid is having fun. With more climbing more power will happen."
 
Adidas Rockstar Trailer - 16/9 20:15  Facebook
 

Eric Sethna
Flingus Cling 7b, Murrin Park, Squamish

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