Moon Board presentation that just might use 8a score in the future  Facebook
 



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Ned Feehaly flashes Trust Issues 8B+ in Rocklands  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNed Feehaly publishes in Instagram that flashed yesterday Nalle Hukkataival's problem Trust Issues 8B+ at the Realm in Rocklands. Days ago Ned also did classic Amandla 8B+ too. (c) Shauna Coxsey

"Trust Issues - Rocklands. It's not very often you find a problem that suits you so well - heel hooks and huge lock offs on sloping holds. It's a total stunner of a line too.

A while ago I set myself the challenge to flash 8b. A few times I've been painfully close, but always managed to drop the ball when success seemed all but inevitable. While I still haven't flashed an 8b, I did flash this 8b+ instead... Thanks @alexandermegos and @dave_graham_ for the cheerleading and beta. And of course @nalle_hukkataival for putting this amazing line up!
"



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Verhoeven and Korenaga tie-break winners in World Games  (11) Facebook
 

As in the last World Cup, the route setters had dufficulties seperating the finalists. All three female on the podium got to 39+ and the following two 39. Among the male, the qualification result had to separate the first two and #4 to 6 did also get the identical final scoring.

1. K Korenaga JPN - A Verhoeven BEL
2. Y Hada JPN - J Garnbret SLO
3. S McColl CAN - J Chanourdie FRA



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Kalymnos paradise escapes from the earthquake  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAris T, the topo producer, confirms that the earth quake that had it's epicentrum some 5 km from Kalymnos and badly hit Kos, did just have a very mild impact on Kalymnos.

"We have very often small quakes at Kaly. Without any problem though as this time. Just well shaken not stirred! I have some info for 1-2 falling stonew at Pescatore left and at Afternoon. Maybe it is just loose rock that already exists high above the routes and sometimes with heavy rain or now with earthquake."

Aris also says that there are some 200 climbers on the island and that they have been climbing on Secret Garden and Odyssey in 27 degrees and a nic breeze lately.



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Alex Megos repeats Hukkataival's 8C in Rocklands  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos comes with great news on Facebook with a great picture by Ken Etzel.

"What a battle! Sometimes things just take a while but when they happen it's even more rewarding! After 5 us of work I did the first repeat of "The Finnish Line" put up by @nalle_hukkataival a few weeks ago! Maybe the best line of all time?!"

In regards the grade, Hukkataival said it was a contender to be the hardest in Rocklands which has four 8C's.



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Ogata wins World Games Bouldering finals  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureExcellent route setting and commentating in the World Games Bouldering. The only thing that was missing was a clock as well as the live-streaming changed to swimming when there were two climbers left. Yoshiyuki Ogata (19), currently #8 in the WC, had secured the victory already after he had done all the three first boulders. Surprisingly Jan Hojer, who has successfully been focusing on Lead during the summer, got the silver after having missed qualifying for the last ten Boulders WCs.

1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 4t9 4b6 (c) Eddie Fowke
2. Jan Hojer GER 3t6 3b4
3. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 2t3 4b8
4. Mickael Mawem FRA 2t4 4b7
5. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1t4 4b5
Updated results

22:30-23:00 Women's Bouldering Final (DELAYED)
23:30-24:00 Women's Bouldering Final - continued (DELAYED)

Saturday 22nd July: 22:30-23:00 Speed Finals (DELAYED)
23:30-24:00 Speed Finals - continued (DELAYED)

Monday 24th July: 01:00-03:00 Lead Finals (DELAYED)

 
 
Upgraded server means faster access to 8a  Facebook
 

Sorry for the downtime but now we have upgraded to a modern server with much higher capacity which means faster access to 8a. It might be that some things needs to be optimized but as it stands now the response time is more than double as fast :)

 
 
Chris Sharma DWS 8b+ above a river  Facebook
 

 
 
No major quake problems on Kalymnos  Facebook
 

With the epicenter some 60 km east of Kalymnos, a 6.7 magnitude quack stroke 00:30 friday night and from Kos reports two dead and hundreds injured. Many buildings on Kos, which was closer to the epicenter, were destroyed and also a tsunami hit the sourranding islands.

Aris T, the topo producer, reports that they wake up during the night and that there were some shakings for like 30 seconds. He has not heard about any problems on the island and he is going out climbing on Secret Garden and will give us further updates. It might be wise to pay attention for loose rock.

 
 
Beta site updates included bugs  (13) Facebook
 

It's now possible to add new ascents using the beta site! We've added a quick-add option so it's easy to add new ascents when you're at the crag. Previously you can get all news, data base access and also driving directions to several thousand crags in the world. The bugs have also been fixed.

Read the full newsletter here

Check out the beta site

 
 
21th 8B by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her 21th 8B, The Shining in RMNP and she got it in just two hours in bad conditions. (c) Joel Zerr

"Wow, psyched! First day ever at this boulder!!! 90% of the holds were VERY damp and some were actually fully wet! Took about 2 hours of work. Would be a lot nicer to climb without a lake under the start. 2 really cool boulders!!!""

The runner up on the 8B and harder list is Ashima Shiraishi with 15, Isabelle Faus with 12 and Anna Stöhr with 8. Including two 8B+'s, Puccio has done 23. In total there are some 20-25 female who have done an 8B boulder depending on which grades you use.

 
 
Dani Andrada: "It is harder to climb a 9a+ than boulder an 8C"  (17) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAfter a conversation with Dani a few days ago climbing together, he told us his concerns about the fast hatching of the boulderers and the late blooming for route climbers. First of all this is only an evaluation without acrimony, simply extracted from a personal conversation with him. (C) Talo Martín - Muérdago Films

"How many climbers can, in their first years of climbing, get to do the maximum grade in bouldering? I think quite a few. And now, how many people who in less than 4 years can climb a 9a+? They almost don't exist.

In bouldering I see that it is increasingly unnecessary to have a certain experience and in routes is totally the opposite. You need tenacity, psychology, baggage.. For me, it is easier to climb routes than bouldering. It may also be because of the age, but if I find a problem that suits me, that's it.

The real strength is up to about 32 years old. There are many people who have started to climb and have quickly reached to the highest level in bouldering but not in routes. For bouldering you don't have to climb very well if you have pure strength. There are some of the high-level boulderers who have problems to climb a 8a route.

Which is even more impressive is that almost the highest grade in bouldering has been climbed barefoot many times by Charles Albert during the last years, even downgrading a 8C+ proposal in Fontainebleau or the last repeat to Monkey Wedding 8C in Rocklands, and nevertheless on routes, just a few have done 8c barefoot. I have tried at least 8 times an 8c+ in Rodellar that I fell on the last bolts barefoot."

 
 
9b+ link done by Ondra in Flatanger  Facebook
 

Adam Ondra comes with great promising news for his 9c Project Hard in Flatanger on his Instagram

"Finally some progress on Project Hard. I did the "9b+ link", which is linking the whole route without the first 20m of 8b. Possibly my hardest route ever, except for the fact that is not a route at all... Yet."

 
 
Three female tops and Garnbret win again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret cruised the final route with ease and said it was amazing to do in front of the huge crowd but also that she was not even pumped. Anak Verhoeven, who made the first top, was pleased but at the same time frustrated as she thought they deserve harder routes as they train hard.

Including the male four tops, the commentators tried to say it was a great show but in the end everyone agreed that it was a big route setting mistake again.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Jain Kim KOR
3. Anak Verhoeven BEL
3. Tina Johnson Hafsaas NOR
5. Jessica Pilz AUT
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Four Tops and Bombardi won being faster  (8) Facebook
 

Marcello Bombardi, who was #28 in the World Cup 2016, started the season by being #7 in the European Championship and now he won in Chamonix when he entered his first WC final. In fact, four guys topped the route and based on count back, the Italian won against Keiichiro Korenaga having topped faster! Complete results

1. Marcello Bombardi ITA
2. Keiichiro Korenga JPN
3. Yuki Hada JPN
4. Romain Desgranges FRA
5. Loic Timmermans

It should also be noted that 22 guys topped both the qualifications routes and the first route was actually topped by 42 climbers. In other words, this was possibly the worst route setting since IFSC started in 1989. The live-streaming was excellent with follow up interviews and also that for the first in 2017 a clock was visible in the screen and also for the climbers.

On the other hand, as it turned out to be a route where it was about climbing the fastest, it was difficult to follow who climbed faster.

 
 
Time will be an issue in the male Chamonix final  Facebook
 

The first male qualification route in Chamonix was topped by 46 athletes and the second route got 23 tops. Overall, 22 climbers topped both routes which is a new IFSC record since the World Cup was started in 1989. During the semifinal, we did not see any tops but three + three guys had the same results, meaning time will be used to split these guys if they get to the same hold in the final. In other words, we just might see the climbers try to climb faster than normal during the final.

Complete results The female semifinal starts 11:00 tomorrow and it will be streamed-live.

 
 
Chamonix World Cup  (22) Facebook
 

The Lead World Cup in Chamonix begins today with the qualification at 10.00. Updated results
Live-Streaming from the male semifinal today 20:00-22:30 and for the female tomorrow between 11:00-13.30. Finals 20:50-22:30 tomorrow.

 
 
Monkey Wedding 8C in 30 min by Alex Megos  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Megos report on FB, with a nice picture from Natacha Jagd, that he has done Monkey Wedding in Rocklands in just 30 minutes.

"Did try it 3 years ago for half a day but thought I was too weak. This trip it didn't feel very hard at all! Totally suites my style I guess. Super excited for more! "

 
 
Crutches but progress to 8B+ by Thomas Blaabjerg  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureThomas Blaabjerg has done his first 8B+, The Never Ending Story in Magic Wood four years after he had a bad accident which still forces him to use crutches during the approach. When it comes to landing on the crash pad he cannot land directly on his just feet, instead he has to fall down on his back. (c) Camilla Hylleberg

- In 2013, I had an accident climbing on the auto-belay in my local gym, that resulted in an eight meter long free fall leaving me with a broken wrist, two crushed heels and, according to the doctors, some bad prospects for the future.

Today, 4 years later, I still have to do a lot of rehabilitation; I still have trouble with walking, everyday activities and many things in climbing. However, if I’m careful, it’s still possible for me to climb hard, especially on rock, where it is easier for me to compensate for the lack of movement and strength in my feet. In climbing, there are a lot of things, which is almost impossible for me now, but there are still lots of things that I can do, so I’m very happy with that!

I tried the line on and off over 4-5 days, but it was only the last 2 days where I gave it actual send burns from the bottom. In the crux (the connection of part one and two) it all comes down to a hard right heel hook, which I found very difficult. Therefore I spent the first sessions trying to connect this part. When I did that, around 3 moves before the red point crux, I knew I was able to do the full line.

 
 
Magic strike by Ryuichi Murai in the Wood  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai has done 12 boulders 8A+ and harder in Magic Wood including two 8C's: In Search of Time Lost and Practice of the wild. Amazingly, the Japanese did it in just eleven days although it rained half of the time and he is now #1 in the ranking game.

"By the bad weather I could perceive importance to climb problems that I want to climb regardless of the grade. In the second half of this tour, the weather improved and I could produce many good results! I already can't wait next trip!"

How did you prepare yourself before Magic Wood?
There are many hard roof problems in Magic Wood, so I went to Shiobara which has many big roofs.

What is the next plan and ambition?
First, I want to complete my big project in Shiobara roof. This Magic Wood tour was also good training for it. The project links original part (8A+) to UMA 8B+. So hard and long, maybe more than 40 moves.

Then I want to climb V16. I haven't even tried yet though.

 
Igor Katalinski

Funky Shit (7c+/8a), Pa
klenica, Croatia.
 
Chelsea Murn

Spineless 5.12c Deep Cr
eek, WA
 
Manuel W

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Chuck Odette

Dreading the Mantle, Mo
e's Valley, UT
 
Georgios Rouss

Ntinos Mprentas on 'Dou
ble Penetration', Kleis
oura crag
 
Flavio Castagnari (Massa)

O Medo é Servidão 9a br
(7c fr) Climber: Flav
io Castagnari (Massa)
Falésia dos Olhos / Bra
sopolis / MG Brazil
 
Georgios Rouss

Apostolis Karras tries
to FA 'Alexandrou Anava
sis, Pyli crag, sector
Ano
 
Matteo Humar

Falesia del Vauzo, Pali
nuro
 
Andre Krause

Der König der Welt fb 7
c, Okertal
 
Barone Davide

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Bernhard Schwaiger

SWAT, Saalachtal
 
Kamil Wójt

Pijus Magnificus 6b, Mo
ntesa
 
Tomek Zacharewicz

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Michael Füchsle

Michael Füchsle Boulder
n Konstein
 
Leo Skinner

dizdira 7C at albarraci
n, spain
 
Maggie Odette

Pipe Dream 8b+, Maple C
anyon
 
Gabriel Bello

Boulder "Limão - V9"
 
Mike Kimmel

Un Rime Estupide 7c+, R
ocklands
 
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Alex Di Stefano - Twilight of the Idols V10, Black Mtn. CA
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Euro Bouldering Champ just got new rules  Facebook
Jorg Verhoeven explains on UKC the new rules for the European Bouldering Championship that takes place during the World Cup in Munich 18-19i/8. "A solution has been reached, but does it 'solve the problem', so to speak?"

The problem that Verhoeven tris to solve is the unfairness, especially for the male, where the Europeans might end up competing in a qualifying group with many Japaneses. In one group the #4 ranked Europe might end up as #11, missing the semifinal, meanwhile in the other group possible the seven best Europeans qualify to the semi. Originally Verhoeven suggested to cancel the whole European Championship.

The new rule is that the European Championship will be held during the semifinal of the World Cup. After the Top-20 World Cup semifinalists, also the remaining Top-10 Europeans from each qualification group will be allowed to compete.

At the same time some unfairness has been solved, the new set up has also some disadvantages. In practice, the already long live-streamed semifinal (2.5 hours) could possibly take 50 min more if ten extra Europeans will be included in the semifinal. There are a risk for strange and confusing results.

1. The #1 European in the WC, possibly standing on the WC podium, might not stand on the ECH podium.
2. In theory, The European Champion might be #30 in the World Cup.
3. Possibly the Top-6 from the semifinal, or even the #1, will not be allowed to compete in the Munich final.

I agree that Verhoeven's solution could solve a possibly unfair qualification round for the Europeans. However, most probably there will not be an unfair qualification and five male Europeans from each group will make it into the semi. If so, the new set up of rules will not have had any advantages but we could end up with a long and strange competition with confusing results.
 
Seb Bouin tries Move 9b (+) in Flatanger  Facebook
 
Loopo Lite 85 gram harness  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureEdelrid's Loopo Lite at 85 grams is probably the lightest harness on the market. Actually, to get it out of the super small bad that fits into your hand and put it on feels like a joke. Before I was allowed to test it my wife told me that I had to send Edelrid a mail confirming that it besides ski-touring also is allowed to take falls on.

After I got the, Sure, like any other harness it is certified according to the EN 12277, C. we tested it and surely it is not comfortable taking a full but it does the job. If I would have been a World Cup sponsored Edelrid climber I would surely gone for it getting some 250 grams advantage towards all my competitors.
 
Alex Honnold also a master of personal grades  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is the best climber in the world and he is also the top climber that uses most personal grades, helping the topo producers and the community to get unanimous grades.

Alex Honnold just might be the runner up in the personal grade recording. During the last three weeks he has done 17 routes 7c+ to 8b+ (8c), including suggesting 7c+ for his onsight of Hellion in Ten Sleep which everyone says is 8a+. (c) Jimmy Chin

In total, Alex has recorded 755 climbs on his scorecard and for more than hundred, personal grades or soft comments have been made. One reason for this could be that he is doing many trad routes and also use these routes as bench marks. In the trad ranking game, Honnold has been #1 for many years.
 
Hörst' brothers go for the healthy pyramid approach  (10) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureCameron Hörst (16) has climbed two 8b+ routes in a day at Wild Iris, Wyoming, including a rare ascent of Todd Skinner’s legendary “Throwin’ the Houlihan” (historically graded 8b+, but now considered 8c by local consensus). The younger Hörst brother, Jonathan (14), has climbed multiple 8b routes in Wyoming, most prominent being his first ascent of “Threat Level Midnight” at Ten Sleep Canyon.

It’s worthy to note that the Hörst brothers only climb 7 months of the year, thus taking a break to play other sports. Their father, renowned coach and author Eric Hörst, endorses a diverse approach to youth sports and training…for optimal physical and mental development, and to reduce risk of overuse injury among adolescent climbers. Read his article, Youth training and growth plate injuries.

Four years ago Jonathan did his first 8b+ being 10 years old and he has now done 24 routes 8b and 8b+. Cameron did his first 8b+ being 11 years old and he has now done 17 routes 8b+ and 8c.
 
European Youth Cup - L'Argentière  Facebook
98: Yannick Flohe GER - Johanna Holfeld GER
00: Nathan Martin FRA - Urska Repusic SLO
02: Alberto Gines ESP - Luce Douady FRA
Complete result

Interesting is that Germany, who has struggled with poor junior results for several years, did get two golds and some more good results. Laura Rogara, who was in the Lead WC final, was just fourth among the 16 year old's. Nikita Potopova, who has been totally superior in Lead this year, was just seventh.
 
Old-school crags are getting popular again  Facebook
Frankenjura, Arco and Finale are three crags where sport climbing were born and they are all Top-20 in the crag data base. Based on the trend rating, we can see that 11-12 % of the added ascents are from the last 12 months meaning that they have all increased in popularity the last year. The crags that have lost in popularity are in general crags from France, Kalymnos and Railay Beach.
 
IFSC route setters need guidelines for harder routes  (4) Facebook
Based on the route setting fiasco in Chamonix, clearly the route setters need some guidelines for how hard the routes should be. Obviously, everyone knows that one top in the final creates the ultimate show but on the other hand such goal can easily ruin the show making the route to easy with multiple tops. Here are example of guidelines that IFSC could give to their route setters. Any further suggestions?

Quarterfinal male grades (female -2) (and #of climbers reached)
Third clip = 8a, Midways = 8b+ (26), Penultimate hold = 8c+ (3), Top = 8c+/9a (1)

For the semifinal and final, the grades could be the same as it is onsight instead of flash as in the quarterfinal. Further more, the route setters should opt for one third to be eliminated around midway and just one climber reaching the penultimate hold.

If there were more than one double top in the quarter final, the route setters should increase the difficulty with half a grade. If there are ties among the Top-5 before the final, the route setters should increase the estimated difficulty by one grade.

The above suggested grades will also help the inexperienced climber to understand if there is any idea to participate. Often it seems that the routes are too easy in the beginning, sometimes, also based on the new 6 min rule, turning Lead into a boulder battle instead of measuring who has the best endurance.
 
Black Diamond's Momentum very impressive  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe Momentum from Black Diamond has become my wife's favorite climbing shoe. She like that the discrete "Yoga look" instead of climbing in pink, orange or other bright colors. It is very easy to put on and off as well as it is not so sweaty due to it's great breathability. The last is flat and the midsole is very soft making it a very comfortable shoe.

What amazes me is how sticky and durable the 4.3mm NeoFriction rubber is. In other words, it performs really well for both beginners, standing on big holds or doing shorter routes, as well as for experts who do not want the down turned shoe.

Black Diamond will launch several different shoes in 2018 which are produced in Korea. Video presentation
 
New female Zlagboard record by Nika Potapova (14)  (2) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureNika Potapova, who has been totally superior in the European Cup this year, has set a new female Zlagboard record with 02:02:94 in a Vertical-Life event during the World Cup in Chamonix. Video

Although many world class climbers had a go, only 12 climbers (10 male, 2 female) have managed to hang for more than 2 minutes. Ramón Puigblanque has the current record at 02:44.35. The organizers of the Zlagboard Contest promise 1,500€ for a new hangtime record. Nika will be able to go for the prize money when she turns 16 in 2019.
 

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