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Two 8c+' by Domen Škofic  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDomen Škofic, Lead WC winner 2016, has had a great day in Kotecnik where he did two 8c+'; Miza za šest and Beautiful Mind, which he did second go. (c) Just Vidic

How is your training preparations for the Lead WC going
Nothing special, the only thing is that I finally started to climb more outside again and I like it a lot. I feel in a good shape but everybody trains hard and we’ll see what happens this year. I’m just excited for the season to finally start again.

 
 
"Comfort Zone" - Hard core training with Honnold and Siegrist  Facebook
 

 
 
Seventh 9a by Gonzalo Larrocha  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGonzalo Larrocha has done Victimas Perez 9a in Margalef. In total, the 33 year old has done 1 063 routes 8a and harder. ©Silvia Abad

"Perfect breezy day. Thanks Campe for coming on his rest day, Sergio for all the days he came up and Silvia cause always encourages me. Fell 8 times in the very last crux but finally happy."

 
 
3 climbing Outdoor award winners  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOutdoor in Friedrichshafen is the biggest trade show in the world for the climbing industry, awarding innovative new products.

Vertical-Life won their seventh award and this time through their Smart scorecard for running competitions. - "This is the first ever fully digital solution for running climbing and bouldering competitions. The innovative, user-friendly design is impressive.

MadRock won for their Haywire climbing shoe - "The Haywire rock shoe has the entire toe box made of one piece of rubber thanks to a new moulding technology."

Tindeq won the start up category for their gymnastic rings. - "Training rings with all the functionality of a fingerboard, but lighter and more portable. They also function as rings to allow core training exercises and warm up routines. The high-quality, ergonomic, plywood construction feels great and wont wreck the skin on your fingertips.

 
 
Sixth 8c onsight by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, who just did Biographie 9a+, has onsighted his sixth 8c, Nuria in Cuenca. "So happy to be able to control everything all the way to the top."

Including also eleven 8b+ onsights, the 21 year old Pole should be among the Top-10 best onsight climbers in the world. The superior number one is Adam Ondra with 81 onsights between 8c and 9a. A possibly runner up is Kleman Becan with around ten 8c and 8c+ onsights. Here is an 8a onsight interview from 2005. The first climber to onsight 9a was Alex Megos with Estado Critico.

 
 
Projecting a 9a after a bad accident - looking for uncertainty  Facebook
 

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, with a personal best of 8c, started projecting Rainshadow 9a almost three years ago. In august lat year, she fell up-side-down and was taken to the hospital with a helicopter. In a Tedx event she explains her drive in climbing and that she is actually looking for uncertainty to meet her goals. In all, her talk is a lesson in mental training and part of why we all love climbing.

 
 
Four 8a's in a week by Cathy Wagner (52)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCathy Wagner, who has done 665 routes 8a and harder, has done four 8a's, the last week. Just during the last year the 52 year old has done 60 routes 8a and harder meaning she is having her most productive year ever. Is there any other female who has done more 8a's or has a more wide grade pyramid?

 
 
8c+ by Jakob Kronberger (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Kronberger who did his first out of six 9a's when he was 14 years old, has done Schneller als der Schatten 8c+ in Salzburger land.

"I've never sent a route this hard so quickly. The crux includes one of my favorite dynos in any route I've ever climbed. More info on his Insta.

 
 
9a by Adam Mach  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Mach has done two 9a’s; Acapulco extension and Stal Milec in Dolina Kluczwody. The katter was originally an 8c+ with artificiell holds which was taken out in 2012.

Probably I am the first who did both the most difficult routes in poland. At the beginning of this year I was able to train 2 times a day which probably resulted in some degree of success. When I work abroad I spend a lot of time on the trx handles of the wheel and kettle. I want to thank everyone that came with me to the cave and everyone who belayed me.

 
 
9a FA link-up by Jon Cardwell  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJon Cardwell, who previously has done three 9a+' and often gives personal grades, has done the FA of Z Nation in Rifle, calling it a hard 9a. (c) Bearcam

"It's actually a link-up between three existing routes; Zulu, The Crew, and Bad Girls Club. I envisioned the link because another project I have in the canyon had some wet holds and I figured it would be a nice endurance challenge in the meantime. After climbing the first few bolts of Zulu, which is pretty bouldery, you get a good rest and then connect into the Crew via a pretty difficult boulder problem. After that, it's a pure endurance challenge to the end with the most difficult section coming at the last bolts of Bad Girls Club.

 
 
Kaddi Lehman does Kryptos 8C  (42) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatrin "Kaddi" Lehmann has done Franz Widmer's Kryptos in Balsthal becoming the second women to do 8C. It has previously been repeated by Fred Nicole and Kevin Heiniger. She discovered it 15 months ago and since the end of last year she has been projecting it hard. More info on Black Diamond

“I knew in May I wouldn’t have much time. Since it was so warm already, I drove to the area after work late in the evening. I only arrived at midnight. Slept there, got up at 6am, had coffee and some breakfast, cycled or walked up to the boulder, tried some moves, cycled down to the car, drove back and went straight to work. It was hard to get up so early and try hard. People who know me, know that I am not really an early morning person. But all that effort was worth it. I thought even if it didn't work out, I had a nice time outside. And then on the 14th of May I was able totop out this boulder”. (c) Michael Steimle FA video.

 
 
8a Female Climbing Hero - Margo Hayes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBased on some 1 800 unique votes, Female Climbing Hero?, with 2017 figures in brackets, Margo Hayes were voted #1. Here is a short 8a interview after she did La Rambla 9a+. Later she has also done Biographie. (c) Matty Hong.

18 % Margo Hayes (15)
14 % Angela Eiter (11) and Lynn Hill (35)
13 % Alex Puccio (10)
10 % Barbara Zangerl
08 % Janja Garnbret (9), Akiyo Noguchi
04 % Shauna Coxsey (6), Josune Bereziartu (8)
02 % Sasha Digulian
05 % Other

 
 
Two 8As by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber has done two 8A's in Silvretta; High Society and X-Ray, "FINALLY! Took my Silvretta nemesis boulder down! Shitty conditions in the hole, kinda slippery and dampy next stop: Rocklands!" In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #7 with a perfect score of 10 000 points, having done ten 8A's the last 12 months.

 
 
Hukkataival opens a new sector in Rocklands  Facebook
 


Nalle Hukkataival in Rocklands - The Realm from Kevin Takashi Smith on Vimeo.

 
 
Vail gallery by Eddie Fowke  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio wins in Vail and Eddie Fowke has created a stunning gallery.

 
 
Highlights from Vail  Facebook
 

 
 
Japan dominates the overall ranking  (5) Facebook
 

1. Jernej Kruder 400 - Miho Nonaka 500
2. Tomoa Narasaki 396 - Akiyo Noguchi 495
3. Rei Sugimoto 322 - Fanny Gibert 305
4. Alexsei Rubtsov 296 - Stasa Gejo 222
5. Jongwon Chon 247 - Katja Kadic 202
6. Kokoro Fujii 233 - Janja Garnbret 180

The above ranking calculates all six events before the last event in Munich. Counting all but one, Tomoa and Akiyo are in the lead. Complete results

Country ranking
1. Japan 2269
2. Slovenia 1107
3. France 751
4. Austria 584
5. Russia 543

 
 
Excellent show in Vail with four Japanese on the podium  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture1. Alex Puccio USA 33 - Rei Sugimoto JPN 34
2. Miho Nonaka JPN 23 - Sean Bailey USA 24:2
3. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 13 - Tomoa Narasaki JPN 24:3
Complete results

Alex Puccio, doing her first WC in 2018, was last out and flashed the boulder and secured the victory in front of her home crowd. All boulders were topped out. Among the male, Rei Sugimoto was in the lead before the last boulder which he could not top. Then it was Sean who on his flash attempt could not hold the swing on the top hold and the same situation later ocurred for Tomoa. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Biographie 9a+ by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his fourth 9a+, Biographie in Céûse. More info on his Insta. In the ranking game, the 21 year old Pole is #3. (c)Jan Novak

”I’ve tried it a lot in July 2016, got very close but then the downturn began. I’ve tried to come back 3 times but there was always something disturbing and I wasn’t ready. Noe I came back stronger and mentally fresh and climbed it in the 4th day, just when the conditions and head made it possible. As you can see in my insta the send means so much to me, I’ve felt everything that you can feel on the project while trying Biographie.. so now Just pure happiness, relief and pride.”

 
 
Vail Bouldering WC: 8 Japanese Top-12 in qually  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe sixth and second last Bouldering World Cup 2018, starts today in Vail and there are 91 male and 58 female participating. Last year, 59 male and 55 female competed. Updated qualification results, 8 male Japanese Top-12. Gabri Moroni who won last week was #29 and failed to make semi. © Eddie Fowke - The Circuit Climbing


GMT-6
Saturday: 9:30-11:45 Semi (LIVE) - 14.45. Finals (LIVE)

 
Umberto Tilomelli

Indigo 7b, Lumignano
 
Christian Winklmair

Big XXL 7a, Mallorca
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Dubard Loïc

Storm - 7C/V9, Ravine d
es Avirons
 
Jonathan Shen

Floflo Grunewald on OAK
A IC (8a) at Limeri.
 
Miguel Espejo

Líneas Cruzadas 7c, La
Piedra
 
Luca Polucci

Sweatheart 6a+, Zillert
al
 
Furkan Akkaya

Chain Erection 8a
 
Heiko Queitsch

Willenbergdach fb 8a Ch
ironico/Tessin Switzerl
and
 
Fabian Poels

Grotta raptor 7a+, Grot
te d'Oréac
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Raffaella Cottalorda (f)

Encadene de el 7c+ : se
ctor PARKING-Albarracin
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Heiko Queitsch

thanks Frank for this n
ice picture.. first "Gr
eenpoint" o. "cleanasce
nt" from the super clas
sic "Chasin theTrane" (
9/7c) (E7/6c) years ago
!
 
Kamil Wójt

Pijus Magnificus 6b, Mo
ntesa
 
Kathrin Ziegler

Goldener Mittelweg
 
Fabian Poels

Liesbeth Moesen on Tacc
he ticche 6c, Bausu Cen
trale, Albenga
 
Bastian Wagner

Grampians, Australia "T
ouchstone Pictures, 7c+
"
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Climbing with kids outdoors  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKids love to climb but it is rather difficult to make the youngest once start liking outdoors. Indoors it is much easier as the holds are bigger, the mattress are softer and it is easier to be rappelled down, on a vertical wall. In fact, rope climbing outdoors will almost always end up with a problem lowering down the small kids on a slab, especially when they have a full body harness. In such case, it is almost impossible to make the youngsters to lean out backwards to be able to walk down like the firefighter.

In one way, it is best to start climbing by bouldering outdoors if possible. You do not need any climbing shoes. Just help them push their gymnastics against the rock so the do not slip and hurt their knees. The only climbing shoes our kids use is the sandal look-a-like, Grip-it from La Sportiva. These they can use for hours and even walk to and from the crag. All normal climbing shoes they refuse to use. They are simply to hard and uncomfortable.

Do not forget the helmet and once again it should be a cool and comfortable one so it can stay on for several hours. It is also good to have knee pads or rough trousers because the most common incident we have had is bruises on their knees.

It should as always be noted that once inviting beginners to our rock climbing scene, make sure you begin super ultra easy on short walls. In practice this means bouldering grade 2a on 2 meters boulders or 8 meters rope climbing. Then they are of wanting to challenge themselves on more difficult and higher walls. It will not take long until they learn the grade system so you better start setting goals like climbing 100 meters or doing 10 boulders instead.
 
Dream experience?  Facebook
 
Gimme Kraft: Mobility for climbers - lower body  Facebook
 
Grade changes and historical achievements  (1) Facebook
Wolfgang Güllich's Action Directe in Frankenjura from 1991 is known as the first 9a, even if the proposed XI german grade, at that time, was translated to 8c+/9a. Today many in the UK scene think Ben Moon's Hubble from 1990 also should be upgraded to 9a. It just might be that in a few years, the history books have to be rewritten saying Moon put up the first 9a in the world?

An example where the history books already have been rewritten is Bernabe Fernandez Chilam Balam which originally was claimed to be the first 9b+ in the world. Now it is considered 9a+ or 9b. Based on this list we can see that like a third of the 9a ascents now have been listed as 8c+/9a.

The most known example of a grade change is Era Vella in Margalef. It was repeated and confirmed by some 20 climbers before Jonathan Siegrist said that for him personally, he did know other 8c's that were equally hard. This together with also that many of the repeats could be considered personal best, made some others say it should be down graded.

In one way this shows that there are no such thing as confirmed grades that can be written on stone and the same goes for historical achievements. Grades will always be subjective and in practice it means that most probably we will see the history rewritten when it comes to first of the grade. In the same way, this means that professional climbers' CV's also need to stay updated.
 
SLO & ITA dominated in Brunico  Facebook
In the Lead European Youth Cup in Brunico, Slovenia and Italy got nine medals out of which eight in the two oldest categories. Complete results

99: Filip Schenk ITA - Vita Lukan SLO
01: Luka Potocar SLO - Laura Rogora ITA
03: Ondřej Slezak CZE - Lucija Tarkus SLO
 
Amazing solo climbing by Raccoon  Facebook
 
Jerry Moffat and mental training  Facebook
R&I has published a long article where Jerry Moffat explains how he dealt with mental pressure. Jerry was one of the best climbers during the 80’s on rock but had problems to perform in comps.

A week or so later the proverbial light went on. I realized I didn’t need more power, or endurance. I didn’t need to lose weight. I needed to be strong mentally. I needed to know what exactly I should be thinking. If I couldn’t utilize my power or technique under pressure, I would never win."
 
Increased Japanese domination in Boulder WC  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIn 2013, Japan was runner up in the Boulder World Cup ranking with 1 523 points behind Austria at 1 946. In comparison to the total Top-5 countries score, Japan got 21 %. This figure has been on a steady increase over the years and in 2018, they are 43 %.
 
Kruder vs Narasaki and Nonaka vs Noguchi in Munich  (3) Facebook
The seventh and last Boulder WC will take place in Munich 17-18/8 and it is a two + two person battle. Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka are in forefront. Tomoa Narasaki needs to be #9 or better and beat Jernej to win and Akiyo Noguchi needs to be #2 and beat Miho to win. Complete rankings
 
How many have done 8a and harder?  (13) Facebook
It is impossible to say how many have done an 8a. One way to come up with a guess is to use factor 3.5 for every grade. In practice, a factor 4 fits better for the the somewhat official stat we have for 9a to 9c but the history shows that many of them will probably get down graded. Anyhow, in one way, such calculation helps us to understand the width of the grades and how the grading system works.

1 = 9c (Ondra)
3.5 = 9b+ (Ondra, Sharma and Megos)
12 = 9b (Some 16 guys)
43 = 9a+ (Around 70 guys)
150 = 9a
525 = 8c+
1 838 = 8c
6 433 = 8b+
22 519 = 8b
78 815 = 8a+
275 854 = 8a
 


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