Saturday, 19 September
Mina Markovic has been one of the best competition climbers during the last 15 years. In between 2010 - 2015, she had her peak having won 23 World Cups, including two in bouldering. During the last years, she has been studying psychology and biopsychology, which created interest and passion into understanding the consequences of low energy availability. A report of this knowledge in regards health prevention has been published, acknowledging and detecting low ea and disordered eating in sport, including climbing.
This work will soon be possible to access on her IG profile 😋 @miiiinam_psychilogy) as well as invitations for some webinars, workshops and other discussions around this topics in sport). The plan is to follow up and possibly give some further recommendations. (on biopsychology, nutritional psychology and mental health prevention in sport.
During the last season, she started to get some 'random' health issues. No 'real reason' was found but she was advised to gain some weight.
"After a while, it turned out, that my body was more than thankful to me for this step. 🙇♀️, my recovery and training gains become notable. But moreover, what means to me more, I feel free, relaxed and psyched for what life is offering to me. Enjoy all the special moment(s) and smile a lot on every single day! 🤣👌🤣 I would (maybe) prefer not to discuss my weight as I want to avoid those 'numbers' maybe to be taken into the wrong direction by some (especially young) climbers and triggers for some people, to actually achieve this weight ...which I believe is not best approach. But, I can easily mention, that I am at least up for about 4 kg since my comp shape. Climbing (maybe) better and stronger than ever 😋." More thoughts on her Insta.
This summer she has done two 9a's, Halupca 1979 and Waterworld (c) Luka Fonda. The pictures show her new more muscular shape. It should be mentioned that Urska Repusic, also from Slovenia, who won the Euro Boulder Championship last year, has just recently come forward with eating disorder thoughts on her Insta.
Saturday, 19 September
James Webb has logged his first routes since he did Dreamcatcher 9a back in 2018; three 8c's and Bad Girls Club 9a (8c+) in Wicked Cave. "Maybe 8C+? Felt pretty hard to me but then again, I'm not much for endurance routes. Rad line. Props to Joe for the vision and Matty for the FA."
"Jimmy" has been one of the leading boulderers the last ten years having done 292 boulders 8B and harder, out of which 14 flashes.
Friday, 18 September
Mathieu Bouyoud, who previously has onsigthed 18 8b+', has onsighted another two as well as Bongo X 8C in Iluardia. "Big big fight! And it went crazy 😀. A good dose of physical resistance." In the onsight ranking game, the French is #3.
Thursday, 17 September
Alex Megos reports on Insta from his productive five days trip having done six routes graded 8c+ or harder quickly. Interestingly, he has given personal grades (in brackets) for all of them including two upgrades and four down grades.
- Hades 9a (8c+?) 2nd try: A well confirmed 9a in the 8a database.
- Fonax 8c+ (8c+/9a?) 5th try
- Lichtjahre 8c+ (8c+/9a?) 3rd try: Removed chipped hold and broken foot hold (c) Michael Meisl
- Claudio Caffè 8c+ (8c?) 2nd try
- Underground 9a (8c+/9a) Flash
- Pure Dreaming 9a (8c+/9a? with kneepad) 2nd try: A well-confirmed 9a.
To give personal subjective grades are actually rare and in the big perspective, Adam Ondra is the who has done it the most among the hardcore climbers. Even so, it is widely known that there exist many old-school routes that deserve an upgrade meanwhile some of the more modern and steeper endurance routes should be downgraded.
Noteworthy is that most media but 8a and Climbing have reported Megos flash of Underground as a 9a.
Wednesday, 16 September
Samuel Ometz has done his fourth 9a in 2020, Black Beauty in Dossen. "One of the best! Dyno crux at the start, then some power endurance and hard boulder without rest at the top. It is the 1st line they bolted on that cliff. It's super obvious following a black stripe first and then going diagonally on crack systems. Patrick Aufdenblatten did the FA last fall. I lost count of the number of days, more than 10 over two years. Counting the days where I came for nothing because it was wet. Already looking forward to back next summer because there are several really good hard projects there and its probably the sport crag with the best conditions in the summer in Swiss."
Tuesday, 15 September
Alex Megos, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, reports on Insta (with 300K followers) that he has flashed Underground 9a (8c+) in Arco. The super steep roof was put up by Manfred Stuffer in 1998 as an 8c+. After the first repeats, it was upgraded to 9a but lately, some have said 8c+ again. It has now been repeated around 30 times. In total, the 27-year-old has done 87 routes 8c+/9a and harder including the world's first 9a onsight, Estado Critico in Siurana.
He got the beta from Cesar Grosso who has done the neighbouring 9a but still not Underground. "Really impressive!!! He did a perfect climb on flash! Before I climbed it bolt-by-bolt showing and brushing the holds and moves... unbelievable. On the first (and hardest) crux, he almost fell... its hard and more than anything, super complex with hooks, jam, gastons, twist to the right, after to the left... hard to understand even on flash. After that, he was in cruise mode. He climbed it perfect. Now I want to go for it again! 💪😃. I felt many times with the anchor in my face so I was feeling psychologically blocked to do it.
The belayer was his trainer Dicki Korb. "Every move locked totally controlled, it felt like I had the harder job, belaying from the humid/ dark cave 😊" "We also asked Alex about his emotions before, during and after the send?
Before I was not sure if I should go for it. I already climbed an 8c that day and I didn't prepare super well for the flash. Cesar said the biggest problem will be to get through the first crux out of three so I put my focus on that one. Once I passed that crux there were two more to go and with every move, I gained confidence. The second and third crux was a bit weird and with bad feet so I just tried to control the moves as much as possible. After topping I was very relieved that it worked out and that it was good saving the route for some time and not trying it on a previous trip. I'm very grateful for the perfect beta Cesar gave me. It wouldn't have been possible without him.
Also I think that 9a seems a bit over the top. 8c+/9a is more appropriate but it could as well only be 8c+. It's always hard to say if you only tried once.
Monday, 14 September
Natalia Grossman, who has done four 8B's in 2020, has done her tenth 8A+ during the last five months, Phallus in RMNP. "Proud of this one:) My biggest mental battle to date!"
What the #4 in the 8a ranking game is talking about is that she injured her bicep on the first day she tried the sit start forcing her to take some time off. Later when she started bouldering again she did not want to push hard but even so tried it a bit. "Deep down I knew I shouldn’t be trying Phallus so I took a month off from the climb. Yesterday, I finally went back after feeling healthy and strong and sent 1st try!" Full story on her Insta.
Monday, 14 September
Moritz Welt has done his sixth 9a during the last 12 months, Lulu in Céüse. Among the teenagers, he is #1 in the 8a ranking game.
"Tried this one straight for the last three weeks, at least about seven sessions or something. Fell a lot of times at the very end. Once even after the last crux in the final slab. Did it on the last day of my trip a few minutes before it started to rain".
Sunday, 13 September
Julia Chanourdie, who previously has done one 9a+, reports on Insta that has done her second 9a, Sang Neuf in Pierrot Beach. Directly after the send, she tried the extension Sweet Neuf 9a+ and says she will come back once the temperature has dropped. Anak Verhoeven has done the FA of both routes.
Chanourdie was #4 in the Lead World Cup and has since tried to make it to the Olympics and she made it happen in Toulouse where she was #2. Her Speed PB is 8.94 which is one of the best among the non-specialists and here on 8a, she has been predicted to be Top-8 overall in Tokyo, even before she had qualified.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
The Euro Youth Cup in Augsburg started yesterday and based on the first results, the route setters were right on target with just one top out in two categories and were few tied results. In total, some 120 youngsters participated. Here you can follow the live-streaming. The finals start at 15.00. 0…
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