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Finals cancelled in Wujiang  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret started last out and looked to have everything in control three moves from the top when she slipped and it was obvious that the hold was wet, as the exact same thing had just happened for Jain Kim. As the rain seemed to just get stronger they decided to cancel both the finals. This means that the final results was based on the semifinal. As both Janja and Jain topped both qually routes and had the same scoring in the semi, we got two winners among the female. This also means that Janja Garnbret secured her overall title 2018.

1. Janja Garnbret/Jain Kim - Romain Desgranges
2. Jakob Schubert
3. Jessica Pilz - Hyunbin Min
4. Akiyo Noguchi - Hidemassa Nishida
5. Katharina Posch - Stefano Ghisolfi
Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Among the male, Romain Desgranges got his first victory in 2018 and Jakob Schubert secured the overall title without having to climb the final. Overall, Japan got sex male and female in the Top-15 although some of the top male did not participate.

 
 
Back Road 9a by Stefan Scarperi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Scarperi, #3 in the Euro Bouldering Championship in 2015, has done Back Road 9a in Rovereto after three days of projecting. In the Combined ranking game, the Italian is #11. (c) Fabio Fin

"Next week I will go to Frankenjura for two weeks. The main goal is to climb Action Directe and other cool stuff, then bouldering in Ticino.

 
 
9a and 9a+ by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is on a roadtrip in Balcan and in Mavrovo he first he put up Macedonian Trip 9a. "Project bolted by Klemen Becan in 2014. Amazing tufa line, almost 50 meters of perfection. 3 goes."

Then he made the FA of Czech Trip 9a+. "Harder and longer exit of Macedonian trip. Bolted with headlamp on day 1, cleaned on day 2, rested on day 3, sent on day 4. (c) Bernardo Gimenez

 
 
Semifinal Wuijang  Facebook
 

Updated results The finals start 12.30 Euro Time.

 
 
Lead WC in Wujiang with streaming on Sunday  Facebook
 

From the Start List for the coming weekend's Lead World Cup in Wujiang, we can see that Stefano Ghisolfi will try out Speed but in general, the interest for Speed is not so big for the Lead specialists. Further more many of the top ranked Japanese will not participate and instead there are some new names out of the 15 that will participate. In general, eight of the Top-21 male ranked are missing and that goes also for the following weekend in Xiamen.

Live-streaming of the semi, 13.00 - 15.30 on Sunday followed with the finals at 18.30.

If Jessica Pilz wins the last two events, Janja Garnbret secures the victory overall by being runner up in one event and #3 in the other. If Jakob Schubert wins in Wujiang, he secures the overall title even if Stefano Ghisolfi is #2 in Wujiang and wins in Xiamen.

 
 
Weatherman 8a+ DWS by Julija Kruder  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJulija Kruder did follow her brother Jernej to Mallorca to try out DWS for the frist time. No fear - she started by doing a 7c onsight and then it just took her eight tries to do Chris Sharma's Weatherman 8a+ including some falls from 12 meters. This might be the hardest female DWS ever?

"I was extremely surprised, because she didn't feel any fear." Jernej, who also put up two 8b+' says that there is a video coming up.

 
 
Reel Rock 13 - Trailer  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Stargate 8A+ by Ivana If Řezníková (36)  (3) Facebook
 

Ivana If Řezníková has done Star gate 8A+ in Szklarska Poreba. This was her second 8A+ this year when she also did six 8A's. More info on her blogspot.

 
 
8C and 8B+ by Vadim Timonov in Magic Wood  Facebook
 

 
 
Walk of Shame 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  (1) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 81+ #148, Walk of Shame in Verdon. Just during the last 12 months the 53 year old has done 17 8a+, which is a new personal best.

"No misunderstandings possible, it is 8 and very high class thanks to the vision of the talented Mr. P'tit Louis. a big thanks to him!"

 
 
Raining Bats and Dogs 8c by Mina Leslie-Wujastyk  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Raining Bats and Dogs in Malham. " Great route, fell 11 times on the big move on the headwall before doing it. Powered by hairdo strawbs :)" (c) John Thornton

In 2009, Mina did her first 8A and she was also a successful competition climber having been #10 in a World Cup. In 2017, she did her first 8B (A+) but since her focus seems to have shifted to doing routes.

 
 
Le Cadafist 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined WCH in 2016, has done the first repeat of Gerome Pouvreau's Le Cadafist 9a in Saint Léger.

"Yeah!!! 2nd ascent after Gerome. Very good job for the FA mate! Such a nice line! Bouldery sections at the start and at the top on crimps, mini pinches and pockets. Pumpy when you link it. Was heartbreaking to slip with my foot once at the very top after I climbed the hardest moves but today I came back, excited and with strong will and did it with style. Proud ascent! "

 
 
Yip and Fultz won Portland Boulder Rally  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOn October 6th Alannah Yip and Matt Fultz won the 8th Portland Boulder Rally, one of America's premier bouldering events with a $10,000 cash purse and all-day festival. (c) Rich Crowder Event highlights

 
 
Jain Kim has won most IFSC comps  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJain Kim won the last World Cup in Kranj and with 28 victories, she has won most the in IFSC history. Overall, the 153 cm tall worst result since 2009 is #3. (c) Eddie Fowke

28 Jain Kim
25 Angela Eiter
22 Mina Markovic, Sandrine Levet
22 Anna Stöhr
21 Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Kilian Fischhuber, Akiyo Noguchi, Alex Chabot
20 Jakob Schubert, Muriel Sarkany
18 Janja Garnbret
17 Francois Legrand
14 Robin Erbesfield, Adam Ondra

It should be mentioned that the first Lead World Cup was held in 1989 and the first Boulder W in 1999. Note that in the early years there were normally less events per year meaning that probably that climbers like Chabot, Levet, Legrand, Sarkany and Erbesfield would probably been higher up in the list based on equal competition conditions.

 
 
Two 9a's by Lukasz Dudek  Facebook
 

Lukasz Dudek has done another two 9a's, Der Lange Atem in Höllental and Sid Lives in Arco. "Short bouldery route. Looks ugly but it's a good piece of rock with some bad pinches and tiny crimps, 2 days."

In total the Pole has now done 18 routes graded 9a, 31 8c+ and 61 8c's, so the base is ready for a 9a+ cherry on the cake.

 
 
Dur Sex 8c+ by Laurent Vigouroux (40)  (1) Facebook
 

Laurent Vigouroux is clearly in the best shape of his life having done one more 8c+, Dur sexe in Lubaron and now he goes for his first 9a. In the 40+ ranking game, he is #3.

"Without doubts, I benefit actually of a really good shape and I also benefit of a series of success. For this one, I was under pressure since I knew that the weather forecast would not permit one more session in this route before the next summer. So, very happy to succeed in such mental pressure conditions, which is not my best quality.

Mathieu Bouyoud also did it one hour before me. Mathieu helped me a lot with some new methods. Next step for me in this spot is to combine this 8c+ with the hard end of "Le moutchiky, 8c" for a probable 9a. So I'm still on the way for my dream ;-)"

 
 
Male highlights in Buenos Aires  Facebook
 

 
 
La cène du roi lézard 9a+ by Cedric Lachat  (25) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing reports that Cedric Lachat has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's La cène du roi lézard 9a+ in Jansegg. Watching Cedric go more to the left, during his first sessions out of ten, avoiding the original elimination dyno, Pirmin thought Cedric solution was more logical and had already down graded it to 9a+ which Cedric confirms.

Cedric, who previously have done 22 routes 9a and 9a+, has never worked so long for a 9 graded route. He also tried Pirmin's La barrière 9b, which is the same route but instead of the 8b start it begins with a 9a variation, but he could not do all moves. (c) Adeline Helg

 
 
Nilbru 9a by Edu Marin  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEdu Marin is back home in Spain after driving back from Flatanger for almost four days, where he among others did Valhalla 9a/+. They stopped in Rodellar where Edu did Nilbru 9a in four sessions. (c) Esteban Lahoz

Edu Marin is one of the best multi discipline climbers in the world, from winning the Lead World Cup in Chamonix in 2006 to do world class big wall ascents.

 
 
Female highlights in Buenos Aires  Facebook
 

 
Lando Peters

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Albarracín
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
 
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone Wow Prow
"Death camp into stomp
omp blues" 8a+ flash
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
ari
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
IFSC can not afford cancelled events any longer  Facebook
Several of the finalists in Wujiang were upset about the cancellation of a final again in China and said unofficially that they will not compete in China next year. Most of the athletes spend a full day travelling from Europe and then they are not allowed to climb a final in fair conditions or to climb the final at all.

As this has also happened in Europe, it is time for IFSC to either have all events indoors or to really cover the walls so it is possible to compete also during heavy rain. Do you know any other sports, beside regatta sailing and snow sports, where cancellation like this happens as often as in climbing?
 
Schubert & Garnbret WC winners 2018  Facebook
1. Jakob Schubert 495 - Janja Garnbret 550
2. Stefano Ghisolfi 437 - Jessica Pilz 460
3. Romain Desgranges 313 - Jain Kim 330
4. Domen Skofic 270 - Manon Hily 238
5. Alex Megos 230 - Hannah Schubert 202
Complete results

National Team Ranking
1. Austria 1 526
2. Slovenia 1 328
3. Japan 1 298
4. France 945
5. Italy 759
 
Hours and outdoors are what counts for youngsters  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra is the best climber in the history and he is also probably also the one, relatively to his age, who has climbed most hours in the world. Sure there great short term physical training programs which will make you improve but the #1 criteria to have a long term progress is how many fun challenging hours you put in.

A coach that can motivate her/his group to train and challenge themselves 20 hours a week, is probably much more successful in comparison to the best physical climbing trainer in the world, motivating the group just 10 hours a week. At the same time a youngster that not also love outdoors, if possible, will have hard time to keep the hours and motivation during the summer.

"I love training as much as competition!" is a recent quote from Akiyo Noguchi which also Ondra and other top climbers often say in public. Ondra interview from when he was 11-years-old. "More meters, more experiences, more fun!"

The bottom line is that you and the coaches should carefully pay attention of what motivates the youngsters in order to make them climb 20 hours a week. This might of course be a training programmed but it can also just be climbing. Everyone is unique but it is a fact that most of the best climbers did not have any coaches focusing on short term progress through strict training programs, when they were kids.
 
Platforms are part of the climbing future  (2) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureSA Mountain report that platforms at the base of Montgu have been built and that more are coming. It seems such platforms are coming all over the place in order to increase access. Such initiatives will increase the facility to the gym rats and families to try out climbing outdoors.

At the same time we see more hikes being comfortized as well as more via ferrata etc. Climbing is booming and the society is starting to understand that climbing, especially outdoors, have a great impact on public health. With Tokyo 2020, most probably what we see in order to lower the first step to get outdoors climbing, is just the beginning.
 
Is the Dawn Wall both 9a and 9a+?  (26) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureFanatic Climbing presents an interview with Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in regards their Dawn Wall ascent which has become a movie. Interesting is that Tommy had to do a variation pitch, including down climbing, as he could not do the dyno going more straight up. In fact, they say that either Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist could not manage the dyno and even Adam Ondra did choose the loop pitch. In the topo, both the loop as well as the dyno pitch are graded 9a but in practice, Jorgeson's straight up pitch is probably more like 9a+?
 
Leonidio Festival 1-4/11 with Angy Eiter  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTake part in the 3rd Leonidio Climbing Festival on November 1-4, 2018, in Leonidio, Greece. Join the festival and climb alongside Angela Eiter, the first woman to ever climb a 9b (5.15b) and Petzl team athletes Klemen Bečan and Said Belhaj. Remember to take part in Vertical-Life's Zlagboard contest!
The event is organized by the Region of Peloponnese and the Municipality of South Kynouria, and sponsored by Petzl!
 
OPERATION REBOOT  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureLa Sportiva celebrates its 90th anniversary with a reboot of its climbing line: there are 3 classic models involved in the modernization operation with more modern designs and aesthetic solutions in line with the times. Make way then for the new versions of Miura, Futura, Cobra, Katana and Solution!
 
Buenos Aires route setting change the conditions  (1) Facebook
The Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires was a great show although different when it comes to topping frequency in comparison to WCH in Innsbruck. This certainly made it more fun to watch for the general public but some climbers think Lead should be about difficulty and not Speed. In general, I think the Speed element in Lead could be nice for the semifinal which otherwise sometimes can be more boring. However, in any case split times are crucial to increase excitement to understand who is climbing faster 3/4 up the route. Further more, having more than two guys topping out the final must be considered a route setting mistake. IFSC should make a statement how they want the route setting in order to inform if the Olympic candidates should also start training sprint up Lead routes below three minutes.

When it comes to bouldering, more tops are great like in Buenos Aires. On the other hand, the boulders seemed to involve less moves. Was the walls lower and less steep than normal? Possibly the route setter could lower the starting position with half a meter so there can be more action upwards to the top. And once again, two zones will force the route setters to make the boulders more interesting which both the climbers and the spectators will benefit from.
 
The Speed experts were dead wrong  (3) Facebook
In 2015, 8a asked some Speed specialist how difficult it would be for the non-Speed specialist to reach a very good standard. Based on the times of Tomoa Narasaki and Sam Avezou etc, they were actually dead wrong. At the same time, it seems that the younger ones much quicker adapt to going super fast in time.

2015: "In order to go below eight seconds, you probably need to do specific physical training for a year and also do many competitions, which would get you to understanding how to deal with the mental pressure.

To get below 7 seconds in Tokyo 2020 you need to focus half of your training on Speed as well as gaining some weight in the whole body. Thus you will also have to deal with the mental pressure that your standard in Lead and Boulder will deteriorate and you will have to climb outdoors less."


Narasaki did below 7 seconds after just three sessions and clearly he has sub 6.5 seconds capacity. Most probably we will see multiple non-Speed specialist doing sub 7 seconds in 2019 and during the Olympics, we just might see several doing around 6.5 seconds.
 
Lead Olympics is more about Speed  Facebook
As there is no count back to previous round in the Olympics, Lead will be much more about Speed. In the male qualifation in Buenos Aires, we did see three tops separated by time and another seven further down the list. Among the female, nine out of the 21 had to be separated by time as they had the same hold score.

In general, many climbers will take chances and climb faster including going for the "+" instead of taking every rest. It just might be that there is a crux midways, where several falls and then it is about to be fastest to that position if you are not one of the top climbers. In the same way, if the route setters have made it too easy, it is about sprinting to the top. The guys starting late will have the advantage listening to the crowd going crazy for the first top.

The problem is that without digital split results like in slalom etc, it is very hard to know who is relatively fast etc. One solution is to measure split time 3-4 times to be used once the athletes score the hold.
 


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