GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
Amazing day in Hueco by Matt Fultz  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has had an amazing first day in Hueco Tanks where he did Esperanza 8B+, Diabolique 8B and two 8A (+) "second go", Barefoot on Sacred Ground and Tequila Sunrise. The latter two he had tried once 13 years ago when he was 14 years old so some could have called it flashes. Ethical discussion and comments on his Insta.

It should be mentioned that the two "flashes" most consider 8A+ but Matt put it up as 8A's. In the 8a ranking game Matt is #11 but he would have been #6 if he had not been so conservative. Further comments in the right column.

8a flash by Cathy Wagner (53)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner, famous for having done 709 routes 8a and harder since 1994, has done Aromes de Fontanella 8a (+) in Tres Ponts and flashed Andrada 8a in Roc Galliner at 1 500 metres in Spain. Noteworthy is that this was just her fourth 8a flash and the first in seven years for the 53 year old.

"Crazy line at the top in a major sector with memorable access! 4 hours round trip and a perfect flash between the two!

Build Finger Strength with Midtbö with 200' followers  Facebook

Magnus Midtbö, #4 in the World Champion 2011, has over 200 000 followers on his Youtube channel. He is also known for doing several one-finger pull ups. In short six seconds dead hang followed by four minutes rest and four sets. Also boulder problems without feet.

Seleccio Natural 9a by Fedir Samoilov  Facebook

Fedir Samoilov, who did his first 9a when he was 18 years old, has done his third Seleccio Natural in Santa Linya. "The hardest 9a I've ever tried totally unfit to my stile of climbing."

In 2017, the Ukrainian was #9 in the Lead World Cup and last season he was Top-11 in the last three events.

72 athletes and 12 medals in Paris 2024  (4) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIFSC reports that in the Olympic Games in Paris 2024 there will be a separate set of medals for Speed as well as for a Lead/Boulder Combination. In Speed there will be 16 athletes and in the Combination 20 athletes per gender. In Tokyo, only 40 athletes will participate for six medals so it is great news for the climbing community.

It should be noted that this decision that was announced in a press conference in Paris which is not final. "The proposal will next be presented to the IOC Executive Board on March 26th-28th. If accepted, the proposal will then be put forward to the 134th IOC Session on 24th June in Lausanne, Switzerland. "

Keenan Takahashi wins Hueco Rock Rodeo  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureKeenan Takahashi won the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing Diabolique 8B and five 8A+'s during one day. Four of the boulders he did first try. (c)

"Super stoked to have had what may be my best climbing day and to have nabbed gold after such a big day with a bunch of friends, new and old. Cheers to the americanalpine for hosting such a rad event and to Westmountainmedia for the pics", Keenan reported on his Insta.

Poison the Well 8C+ FA by Giuliano Cameroni  (3) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni, who previously has done seven 8C's, has sent his first 8C+ by the FA of Poison the Well in Brione. In the ranking game, the 21 year old Swiss is #3 after Woods and Webb.

"The boulder is a 40 degree overhanging wall. There aren’t many trickeries, only think you need is power and finger strength. There are seven moves, but the crux involves around the 5th and the 6th move, which could be considered 8C itself.

It’s been a know project for more than ten years now, it’s the logical direct version to the classic Pamplemousse (8A). It took me 8 days during a month and a half. The key was resting the specific muscles and waiting for the good conditions. Since you have to be super accurate, you also need a bit of luck to stick the crux hold perfectly. But the stronger you are and the easier it is to be precise, so after 8 days everything felt a little better."

14 8A to 8B+ last month by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt, #4 in the Combined ranking, has had a super productive last month doing 14 boulders 8A to 8B+. Last year he also had a nice pyramid in routes starting with two 9a's. (c) Lars Decker - Kalokagathia 8B.

How do you have time for all these sends and what about the 2019 plan and ambition?
I am living in the middle of Frankenjura. I'm taking my time after school and at the weekends. As long as the weather is good I never go training indoors so I can go bouldering outdoors all the time.

Maybe some traveling around Europe and seeing different places. Of course also trying some hard routes/boulders as well as some FAs. Routes and boulders, I think I will continue to do both equally so I won't get out of shape in any of them.

What about trying to project down 8C and 9a+' instead of scooping around in easier terrain?
I have no explicit focus. Just climbing without expectations.

Odyn's crack 9a+ by Edu Marin in China  (3) Facebook

Edu Main comes with great news on Insta. "A process of four months for climb in free all the pitch’s of Valhalla. To be honest I've been tempted to give up sometimes. Endurance, discipline, perseverance and lots of motivation to release every single pitch!
I've build a sentence that I repeat myself every day when putting on my climbing shoes: "limits are thoughts feeding on our fear of failing". I know Valhalla is madness and that it became my biggest obsession."

Piotr Schab towards the top with 3 rest days a week  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) when he was 16 years old and his first 9a+, Papichulo when he was 19 years old. In 2018, he did four 9a+' and last week he did one more, La Rambla. (c) Pablo Benedito

"The biggest goal of the year is to climb a 9b. I’d love to go back to Fight or Flight. Now it’s time to train again and the plan is to make a month long Catalan trip again in April. Hopefully I’ll be ready to try hard then and the conditions will make the efforts possible. If not I’ll switch again to my favorite style, onsighting and quick redpoints. There are still a lot of routes in a 9a/+ range that are waiting to be climbed. 8c+ onsight is a second big challenge that I look forward to achieve this year.

So please tell us something about training?
This winter I used to do 7 sessions in 4 days a week (3 gym training's included). 21 hours a week, super intense. Now it’ll be different - less volume, more intensity so I hope to take a step further.

Do you really mean three rest days a week?
Yes - Neither climbing nor gym 3 days a week. While you’re doing Raw power sessions in a gym I think it’s more efficient. I’m quite satisfied with the results - in 14 days in Spain I could climb hard 2 days in a row followed by one rest day and it does not happen that often for me.

Piotr finished off his Catalan trip by quickly doing 20 años después 9a and Sin acido clorhidrico 8c+. "They are both are pretty manufactured but the moves and lines create a nice challenge."

8c+/9a by Iker Pou  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIker Pou reports on Instagram that has repeated Xavi González' route Santaropa 8c+/9a in Majorca. ©Pedro Bover

"Taking advantage of spring temperatures and good conditions, I get to get "SANTAROPA" 8c + / 9a in #Mallorca. First repetition, after the strong climber from Mallorca Xavi González."

Adam Ondra: Road to Tokyo #1  Facebook

Jimmy Webb portrait projecting down Dreamcatcher 9a  Facebook

Michaela Kiersch wins in Hueco Rock Rodeo with 5 8A and >  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch, #1 in the Lead ranking game, won the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing five boulders 8A and harder during one day. Highlights were two 8A+'; Barefoot on Sacred Ground and Tequila Sunrise. Once they are logged, she will advance to #5 in the Boulder ranking game. Merrickales

1. Michaela Kirsch 6 870 - Keenan Takahashi 7 290
2. Alex Puccio 6 630 - Sam Davis 7 050
3. Paige Claasen 5 910 - Thilo Schröter 6 990
Complete results

Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ by Tina Johnsen Hafsaas  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Johnsen Hafsaas continues to deliver in Hueco Tanks and five days ago she did the classic Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+. Yesterday, during the Hueco Rock Rodeo, she did Dark Ages 8A. In the Combined ranking, the Norweigian is #3. Thilo Schröter

The winners of Hueco Rock Rodeo 2019 were Michalea Kirsch and Keenan Takahashi. Report to follow.

Memory is Parallax 8B+ by Isabelle Faus  (1) Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Memory is Parallax 8B+ in RMNP which is a 3-star line where the crux revolves around two knee drops. Isabelle is the new #1 in the ranking game and she will be #45 among the males ones it has been recorded. In the history of 8a, only Alec Puccio has had a higher female score but with one more 8B+ by Isa, she is the #1 All Time.

"I tried really hard and found the right beta, it took probably ten sessions maybe more. The key was this new foot sequence I found, makes one move a bit harder but sets me up really well for the ending. Finding that beta definitely made it all click together. In a month I go to Swiss and then Africa this summer again. I wanna try hard and have fun!"

Four 8B+' in a month by Keenan Takahasi  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKeenan Takahashi did his first 8A being 23 years old and then he has had a strong progress for four straight years. Just during the last one month he has done four 8B+', out of which two the last week in Hueco Tanks; Blood of a Young Wolfand The Seventh Circle. (c) Brian Hedrick

How can you explain this peak?
I’m feeling pretty fit and motivated this year; I started doing some basic supplemental training to work my biggest weakness (core). Otherwise just lots of volume trying hard boulders, and some added training at the end of climbing days which I’ve never tried/done before.

What is the plan and ambition for 2019?
I’m heading to Switzerland for 6 weeks soon; the last couple of months have kind of just been preparation for that trip. I haven’t really climbed in the Ticino area so I’m really excited to finally get to spend a good chunk of time there and hopefully find some new stuff. The other big trip I have planned for the year is to get back to Rocklands in summer; I have two boulders I want to repeat but mostly want to try and develop hard highballs. It’s always been my biggest driving factor and finally having more power I’m hoping it can open doors to really pushing myself both physically and mentally.

Aggravated Assault 8B+ by Zach Galla (18)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureZach Galla, who recently won the US Combined Nationals, has done his first 8B+, Aggravated Assault in Griffin Falls.

"Oh my god yes. Used some weird heel beta. Thought it was gonna make it 8B but it still felt quite a bit harder than the others I’ve done." Full video by (c) Ashima Shiraishi

Kirk Windstein 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #8 in the Boulder WC last year, has done La Pelle left 8A and Kirk Windstein 8A (+) in Cresciano. (c) Fabian Leu

”I decided to stop competing a few weeks ago and just do outdoor stuff from now on. There are so many areas I wanna visit and I’m not really psyched for that comp style anymore.”

Sanjski par extension 9a by Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch has done his second 9a, Sanjski par extension in Osp/Misja Pec after some 35 tries, video.

"In the last two weekends I had some very close attempts but yesterday it was finally done. The route is very overhanging, partly even a horizontal roof, where you need a lot of bodytension and fingerstrength on small crimps. This is something I really love.

My ambition for 2019 is to climb more hard stuff, but for now it's time to visit my home climbing areas, to do some training and just have some fun. In spring I want to go again to Frankenjura for making some tries on the famous route "Action Directe".

At the moment there are no comps around, maybe (if it takes place this year) I will compete at the event "Free Solo Masters" in Lienz. I'm still a passionate ROCKclimber but we will see what the future will bring."

Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Sebastian Maya

Momento es un boulder d
e los más bonitos de Mi
neral, un super clásico
que no te puedes perde
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Always a grey (ethical) area  Facebook
Based on Matt Fultz thoughts in regards flashes and grades, it might be interesting checking the 8a Practice & Ethics presented in a traffic light system; Green - Yellow - Red.

Once I onsighted a route in Kalymnos. Hours after I proudly recorded it in my scorecard Aris T, sent me a smiling message that he had belayed me on my first onsight of the same route like 10 years ago. Kind of fun and I had to change it to second go.

At the same time it is quite normal also by top climbers to start an onsight and then down climb to the ground and save the onsight. Further more, belaying friends several times and then go for an onsight has been done on what some consider the first 8c onsight.

The 8a take is that when it comes to world class ascents, we have to apply the ethics more strict but at the same time if Matt Fultz had no recollection of trying the moves, so he had no advantages from what he did 13 years ago, he could possibly have called them flashes.

The bottom line is that we have to accept that there is a grey area, even if it is much thinner for "world records". If you mother lifts you up being 8 years old feeling the first holds on Action Directe, you can of course try to flash it ten years later. The same onsight ethics goes for asking your friend to pre-clip two quickdraws for safety reasons, even down climb once below the first quickdraw or even belay your friend once. It is up to you to make the final ethical "grey" call based on the current community accepted ethics.

Please share your opinions :) Can you onsight or flash a climb twice?
Verhoeven and many more are critical towards the Olympics  (1) Facebook
Jorg Verhoeven, Lead World Cup winner in 2008 and for many year an athlete spokesmen for IFSC, has posted a critical view on his Insta in regards the Olympic format in Tokyo and Paris.

"The single disciplines are slowly crumbling, with many federations choosing to fund/send their 'Olympic climbers', rather than their best climbers. An entire generation of comp climbers is focusing on a discipline that the IFSC has already chosen to abandon."

As an example, Gabri Moroni has posted on his Insta that the Italian federation has decided to not cover any costs what so ever for the guys not focusing on all three disciplines.

The Paris Olympic news looked good for the development of Sport Climbing but on the other hand, from the athletes point of view it is rather strange. From May 2020, there will only be 20 male and 20 female who will train all three disciplines in the world. Once the Olympic Games is over in August 2020 and the medals have been handed out, there will never in the future be climbers who will focus on competing all three disciplines.
Chris Rauch sends 'From Dirt Grows The Flowers' 8C  Facebook
Adidas Rockstars in Lufthansa and Swiss Air  Facebook
From April to October you can broadcast the Adidas Rockstars 2018 on Lufthansa and Swiss Air.
The Speed specialists will be #4 in Tokyo  Facebook
Based on that Speed respective Lead/Boulder will be included in the Olympic Games 2024, we can almost certain say that even if no Speed specialists will qualify to Tokyo, the tripartite selection will go to a Speed specialist.

Mathematically, based on the results in the Olympic Youth Games in Buenos Aires, getting 1 - 20 - 20 will mean qualifying to the Top-8 final in Tokyo.

In that final, 1 - 8 - 8 will most probably mean ranking fourth or possibly fifth. In theory, such a result could also mean getting the bronze.

The reason for this is that instead of adding the results, they are multiplied. This means that it is not so important to have a good result in all three disciplines but instead it is best to win one discipline. If adding the results in all three disciplines was the rule, the Speed specialist would most probably be ranked #12-14 in Tokyo.
Europe & Asia Ch. best Tokyo options for Speed pros  Facebook
The last chance to qualify to the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020 are the five Continental Championships during April and May 2020. This should also, especially among the male, be the best chances for the Speed specialist to qualify. As there is a cap of two per country, in the 2019 Asian Championships with all the super strong male guys from Japan, you might qualify being #10.

On the other hand, any Speed specialist qualifying to the Top-8 will mathematically be at worst #5 overall but most probably #4 just by finishing 1 - 8 - 8. Then the Speed specialist just have to hope the 3-4 guys in front did already get their ticket in 2019. To sum up, chances are great that at least one Speed specialist per gender will make it to Tokyo.

If not there is the Tripartite commission for one selected male and female who did not qualify through results.
Honnold solar foundation in his van  Facebook
Read more about the Honnold Foundation that Alex has run for ten years in order to, "PROMOTING SOLAR ENERGY FOR A MORE EQUITABLE WORLD".

Kyparissi Festival 10-12 May with new beach sector  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKyparissi, located some four hour respective one hour south of Athens and Leonidio, is #1 in the 8a Crag trend ranking. In between 10-12 May they will run their second Festival, more info. Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, has started to open a new sector just by an amazing beach which he says has one of the most beautiful settings he has ever seen and the potential in a gorge is almost endless. He will bring a team to continue they work in the end of April and he hopes that this new sector will be opened with 100 new routes during the festival.
Nicholas Perreth - Lifestyle climber on one leg  Facebook
Wanting to stop the guy who already stopped chipping?  (27) Facebook
Rock & Ice have published an open letter - Chipping and Manufacturing Climbs in Ten Sleep Canyon Needs to Stop. The original letter is mainly pointing out one guy who last week come clean and said he had stopped chipping almost a year ago. This is how he finished a post in a Facebook thread.

"I also in no way am trying to discount what I have done. Regardless of what was done previously in the canyon, I have crossed lines when bolting some of my routes. I own this 100% and have paid for those choices, am now paying for them, and will no doubt pay more in the future for them."

I have been in contact with the guys writing the open letter and asked the question why they run the - Stop the chipping campaign, when it was stopped almost a year ago? As I did not get any answer, is there anybody who knows what this really is about, as also R & I picked it up?

RSS News | More News & Numbers ->