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8c+/9a by Iker Pou  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIker Pou reports on Instagram that has repeated Xavi González' route Santaropa 8c+/9a in Majorca. ©Pedro Bover

"Taking advantage of spring temperatures and good conditions, I get to get "SANTAROPA" 8c + / 9a in #Mallorca. First repetition, after the strong climber from Mallorca Xavi González."

 
 
Piotr Schab towards the top with 3 rest days a week  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) when he was 16 years old and his first 9a+, Papichulo when he was 19 years old. In 2018, he did four 9a+' and last week he did one more, La Rambla. (c) Pablo Benedito

"The biggest goal of the year is to climb a 9b. I’d love to go back to Fight or Flight. Now it’s time to train again and the plan is to make a month long Catalan trip again in April. Hopefully I’ll be ready to try hard then and the conditions will make the efforts possible. If not I’ll switch again to my favorite style, onsighting and quick redpoints. There are still a lot of routes in a 9a/+ range that are waiting to be climbed. 8c+ onsight is a second big challenge that I look forward to achieve this year.

So please tell us something about training?
This winter I used to do 7 sessions in 4 days a week (3 gym training's included). 21 hours a week, super intense. Now it’ll be different - less volume, more intensity so I hope to take a step further.

Do you really mean three rest days a week?
Yes - Neither climbing nor gym 3 days a week. While you’re doing Raw power sessions in a gym I think it’s more efficient. I’m quite satisfied with the results - in 14 days in Spain I could climb hard 2 days in a row followed by one rest day and it does not happen that often for me.

Piotr finished off his Catalan trip by quickly doing 20 años después 9a and Sin acido clorhidrico 8c+. "They are both are pretty manufactured but the moves and lines create a nice challenge."

 
 
Adam Ondra: Road to Tokyo #1  Facebook
 

 
 
Jimmy Webb portrait projecting down Dreamcatcher 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Michaela Kiersch wins in Hueco Rock Rodeo with 5 8A and >  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch, #1 in the Lead ranking game, won the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing five boulders 8A and harder during one day. Highlights were two 8A+'; Barefoot on Sacred Ground and Tequila Sunrise. Once they are logged, she will advance to #5 in the Boulder ranking game. Merrickales

1. Michaela Kirsch 6 870 - Keenan Takahashi 7 290
2. Alex Puccio 6 630 - Sam Davis 7 050
3. Paige Claasen 5 910 - Thilo Schröter 6 990
Complete results

 
 
Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ by Tina Johnsen Hafsaas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Johnsen Hafsaas continues to deliver in Hueco Tanks and five days ago she did the classic Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+. Yesterday, during the Hueco Rock Rodeo, she did Dark Ages 8A. In the Combined ranking, the Norweigian is #3. Thilo Schröter

The winners of Hueco Rock Rodeo 2019 were Michalea Kirsch and Keenan Takahashi. Report to follow.

 
 
Memory is Parallax 8B+ by Isabelle Faus  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Memory is Parallax 8B+ in RMNP which is a 3-star line where the crux revolves around two knee drops. Isabelle is the new #1 in the ranking game and she will be #45 among the males ones it has been recorded. In the history of 8a, only Alec Puccio has had a higher female score but with one more 8B+ by Isa, she is the #1 All Time.

"I tried really hard and found the right beta, it took probably ten sessions maybe more. The key was this new foot sequence I found, makes one move a bit harder but sets me up really well for the ending. Finding that beta definitely made it all click together. In a month I go to Swiss and then Africa this summer again. I wanna try hard and have fun!"

 
 
Four 8B+' in a month by Keenan Takahasi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKeenan Takahashi did his first 8A being 23 years old and then he has had a strong progress for four straight years. Just during the last one month he has done four 8B+', out of which two the last week in Hueco Tanks; Blood of a Young Wolfand The Seventh Circle. (c) Brian Hedrick

How can you explain this peak?
I’m feeling pretty fit and motivated this year; I started doing some basic supplemental training to work my biggest weakness (core). Otherwise just lots of volume trying hard boulders, and some added training at the end of climbing days which I’ve never tried/done before.

What is the plan and ambition for 2019?
I’m heading to Switzerland for 6 weeks soon; the last couple of months have kind of just been preparation for that trip. I haven’t really climbed in the Ticino area so I’m really excited to finally get to spend a good chunk of time there and hopefully find some new stuff. The other big trip I have planned for the year is to get back to Rocklands in summer; I have two boulders I want to repeat but mostly want to try and develop hard highballs. It’s always been my biggest driving factor and finally having more power I’m hoping it can open doors to really pushing myself both physically and mentally.

 
 
Aggravated Assault 8B+ by Zach Galla (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZach Galla, who recently won the US Combined Nationals, has done his first 8B+, Aggravated Assault in Griffin Falls.

"Oh my god yes. Used some weird heel beta. Thought it was gonna make it 8B but it still felt quite a bit harder than the others I’ve done." Full video by (c) Ashima Shiraishi

 
 
Kirk Windstein 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #8 in the Boulder WC last year, has done La Pelle left 8A and Kirk Windstein 8A (+) in Cresciano. (c) Fabian Leu

”I decided to stop competing a few weeks ago and just do outdoor stuff from now on. There are so many areas I wanna visit and I’m not really psyched for that comp style anymore.”

 
 
Sanjski par extension 9a by Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch has done his second 9a, Sanjski par extension in Osp/Misja Pec after some 35 tries, video.

"In the last two weekends I had some very close attempts but yesterday it was finally done. The route is very overhanging, partly even a horizontal roof, where you need a lot of bodytension and fingerstrength on small crimps. This is something I really love.

My ambition for 2019 is to climb more hard stuff, but for now it's time to visit my home climbing areas, to do some training and just have some fun. In spring I want to go again to Frankenjura for making some tries on the famous route "Action Directe".

At the moment there are no comps around, maybe (if it takes place this year) I will compete at the event "Free Solo Masters" in Lienz. I'm still a passionate ROCKclimber but we will see what the future will bring."

 
 
Kuzan 8C by Ryohei Kameyama  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama has done his third 8C, Kuzan in Mie which is a seven moves 8B+ that finishes with a 8B dyno. (c) Muraguchi Liao

"This hard boulder was established two years ago by Toshi Takeuchi. I tried it for three sessions. I'm so happy and satisfied to feel my progress. I would like to try "Off the wagon low start" and "Sleepwalker". These boulders are so cool!"

 
 
Neanderthal 9b and Catxasa 9a+ by Adam Ondra  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has done Catxasa 9a+ and Neanderthal 9b in Santa Linya. Ondra started working the Chris Sharma 9b back in 2011 and then he tried it for several days also in 2015, 2017 and 2019 until he sent it. (c) Artofroute

"There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson."

In total, the 25 year old Czech has now done 24 routes 9b and harder. The runner ups are Chris Sharma with eight followed by Jakob Schubert and Stefano Ghisolfi with five 9b's or harder.

 
 
8A and 8A+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has had a nice day in Clear Creek Canyon where she did Off the books 8A (c) Robin O'Leary and No Halfway Crooks 8A+.

"Really fun climb! SOOO cold out! The only way I was able to climb today was from the hype and motivation from Fausey, Chad, Daniel and Robin! Thanks guys and thanks for showing us this boulder! :)"

 
 
Witness the Fitness 8C by Woods in 2013  Facebook
 

 
 
Three 8A+ flash by Thilo Schröter in Hueco  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThilo Schröter started off his trip to Hueco Tanks with an inflamed finger which luckily healed. During the first three weeks the Norweigian has done a total of 22 boulders 8A and harder out of which seven flash. More pics by Tina Hafsaas. More pics on his Insta.

It’s my first trip to Hueco, so naturally I have a lot of moderate classics to sample, and that’s what I’ve done. Milage is a lot if fun but after a month of rampage it’s time to get on some harder things. Two more weeks in Hueco ahead, and then a week checking out Red Rocks before flying back home. Then I’ll have a month to train and enjoy good conditions in Norway before the BWC‘s start. As of now I’m only planing on competing at the first three that are in Europe, and focus more on rock for the rest of the year with trips to Rocklands, Grampians, Font and the Norwegian west coast. And I plan to do Tokyo as well.”

 
 
Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) by Tina Hafsaas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Hafsaas, #4 in Chamonix Lead WC in 2017, has done two 8A's and Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks. More pics and info on her Insta, (c) Thilo Schröter.

"I’m having a blast here in Hueco Tanks. The style suits me pretty well with steep and long climbing mainly on crimps. I had a great week by sending Le Chninkel and Sunshine each in one session and finish Rumble in the Jungle pretty fast as well. Now I’m sucked into project mode on a few boulders that feel harder for me. They challenge me in styles and techniques I’m not as good at and I hope I will finish them off before we head to Red Rocks.

I will do the full lead World Cup and the European and World Championship in lead. I will not aim for the Olympics as the format does not feel like the sport I am passionate about."

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Piotr Schab  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab has done his fifth 9a+ the last year, La Rambla in Siurana. The Pole did his first 9a being 16 years old and then he has had seven years of continuous progress and he is #2 in the ranking game after Adam Ondra.

"I’ve started trying La Rambla this week, giving it a warm-up go and one try each day. Yesterday during the warm-up go I changed betas in three different sections so sending the route right afterwards was very unexpected. Felt solid all the way up + the conditions were prime. Eventually I sent La Rambla during my 4th day on it, 8 tries with 4 warm-ups included. Such a shame Dave (Graham) fell on the very last move right after my ascent.

 
 
Ondras does 9a and projects 9a+ in Chile  Facebook
 

 
 
No half way Crooks 8A+ by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done her 35th 8A+, No half way Crooks 8A+ in Clear Creek Canyon. Previously she has also done 17 8B's and two 8B+'

"It took me probably five sessions. I felt really close from the beginning, but there was one move that I couldn't do correctly on the try. Once I did it right I did it.

I guess next is Memory is parallax (8B+), feeling good about it, but I also wanna check out Everything gneiss (8B+) and try Dark waters (8B), which are both in the same canyon as no half way crooks :))"

 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Sebastian Maya

El Techo del Puma, Ciud
ad Universitaria, Méxic
o
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
ırı
 
Sebastian Maya

Momento es un boulder d
e los más bonitos de Mi
neral, un super clásico
que no te puedes perde
r!
 
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Marina Jasic

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Bram Honorez

souvenir 8A/+ Chironic
o
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Nicholas Perreth - Lifestyle climber on one leg  Facebook
 
Wanting to stop the guy who already stopped chipping?  (1) Facebook
Rock & Ice have published an open letter - Chipping and Manufacturing Climbs in Ten Sleep Canyon Needs to Stop. The original letter is mainly pointing out one guy who last week come clean and said he had stopped chipping almost a year ago. This is how he finished a post in a Facebook thread.

"I also in no way am trying to discount what I have done. Regardless of what was done previously in the canyon, I have crossed lines when bolting some of my routes. I own this 100% and have paid for those choices, am now paying for them, and will no doubt pay more in the future for them."

I have been in contact with the guys writing the open letter and asked the question why they run the - Stop the chipping campaign, when it was stopped almost a year ago? As I did not get any answer, is there anybody who knows what this really is about, as also R & I picked it up?
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano  Facebook
 
Puccio and Faus doing Halfway Crooks 8A+  Facebook
 
K2 is much more dangerous than Honnold's Free Solo  (22) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureNational Geographic has presented some more insights in regards Alex Honnold's Free Solo of the 950 meters Freerider 7c in Yosemite.

It turns out that he had practiced the boulder crux, midways up, >60 times. "One move on the most difficult section required him to cling to a pea-size nub while “karate kicking” one leg to reach a toehold."

The Freeblast slabs he practiced >90 times and the Enduro corner >40 times. This just underlines the strong message in the movie that Alex is not a lunatic but instead he had rehearsed so much so the risk was very low. In practice, the boulder crux was probably 7A+ meaning for him it was just more or less a technical and mental difficulty and the same goes for the Freeblast slab.

Alex has 961 climbs recorded in his scorecard out of which two 8A+' as well as three 8c+'. (His next climbing goal is to do 9a). So his safety margin doing 7c pitches and one 7A+ boulder was probably very big.

In reality, the best estimation how dangerous it was might be to say that if he had done it 100 times, he had fallen to the ground once. This 1 % risk of death could be compared with trying to summit K2 with a much higher probability to die.

So the million of movie viewers should instead think about how much dangerous it is to summit K2. "About one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit."
 
Devastator 8A+ by Ashima inventing a new move  (4) Facebook
 
Vertical-Life Smart Quickdraw ISPO winner  Facebook
 
Petra Klingler bronze in UIAA Ice World Cup  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PicturePetra Klingler, Boulder World Champion from 2016 and who last year was #6 in the Combined WCHin Innsbruck, got the bronze last weekend in the UIAA Ice World Cup. Vladek Zumr

In 2015, Petra was #2 overall and since then she has just done few and actually most of the time gotten a medal. Interesting to see world class skill in two totally different climbing disciplines. She is active on Insta and we can see she enjoys all disciplines and training hard with the goal qualifying to Tokyo.
 
8 guys in Olympic finals but only three problems  Facebook
From the updated 2019 IFSC rules we can see that they have increased the number of finalists in the Combined finals to eight instead of six. Further more, in bouldering there will be only three boulders separating the finalists.

The reason for this is of course that bouldering otherwise would have taken some two hours but with just three boulders around 90 minutes.

This means more pressure on the route setters and the risk for ties and random results will increase. In practice, most probably this means easier problems and the one onsighting the most will win. Further more, due to worse friction and more pressure on the guys in the end of the starting list (the ones who were the best in Speed), the risk for up-side-down results will increase. On the other hand, this some will feel is good for the excitement before Lead.
 
Boldyrev is going for Tokyo - could get gold  (16) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDanyil Boldyrev believes he and some other Speed specialist have a great chance of qualify to Tokyo during the WCH, where the Top-7 get an Olympic ticket. He will go for at least two Lead and Boulder World Cups before the WCH in Tokyo and he thinks and hope at least 15 Speed specialist will participate.

Training wise his focus is Bouldering and he hopes to be Top-40. In Lead, it might be harder for the explosive power house at 193 cm and 85 kg to fight the endurance. "In the competition I will be 78-80 kg.


"I love bouldering so much and train three to four times a week. I am a sprinter and athlete in mind, blood, muscles and I love competitions. I always focus and enjoy, and say God, thank you for new day."

The key for Boldyrev or any other Speed-specialist making it to Tokyo is not so much their personal result in Lead and Boulder but how many Speed specialists that will compete in the WCH. Further more, as only the first Japanese get a ticket to Tokyo in the WCH, in theory also #12 can qualify if all the Japanese are Top-11.

If Boldyrev win Speed and becomes #40 and #80 in the other two disciplines he should mathematically be #10 - 15 if some 15 Speed specialists participate in Combined. If there are 25 Speed specialist he would mathematically be #8 - 12. So it is certainly a long shoot for the Ukrainian or any other Speed specialist to reach Tokyo.

On the other hand there is the Tripartite option, meaning some guys will invite a qualification Lucky looser to participate. Once in Tokyo, there is like a 20 % chance that 1 * 20 * 20 will make it to the Top-8 final. Once in the Top-8 final, mathematically the chances for the bronze is like 10 %.

However, for 193 cm Boldyrev there is always the chance that he on a slab or a vertical problem he might use his reach and become one of the few doing it. Later he can just hope that the route setter has made a mistake and almost no other top the remaining three and Boldyrev gets #10 in Bouldering. In the Combined final there are just three problems 2019 so theoretically the Olympic gold winner in Tokyo can be Danyil Boldyrev.
 


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