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9a again by Stefano Ghisolfi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi has done his 17th 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco, which Adam Ondra put up this spring. " It would be a hard 9a if Adam wouldn't find this kneebar after the first section of the route, so it is "just" 9a." (c) Sara Grippo

In the Lead World Cup, the Italian is #2 after having won one event out of four. Currently he is training hard often in Innsbruck in order to prepare for the upcoming World Championship next month.

 
 
Two golds and bronzes for Japan in Youth B Bouldering  Facebook
 

Japan continues to dominate Bouldering in the Moscow Youth World Championship. In Youth B, they got two golds and two bronzes in great finals with almost perfect route setting were all boulders were done. Complete results

1. Rei Kawamata 44 - Natsuki Tanii 34 (6)
2. Thomas Podolan 34 (4) - Naile Meignan 34 (8)
3. Nukui Ryoei 34 (5) - Hana Kudo 24

Rei, who also won last year, did his first 8B+ this summer. He has no trainer and his training is just made of my working and repeating the high class boulders at his gym.

 
 
Honnold Free Solo Trailer  (1) Facebook
 

Alex Honnold sat a new standard in climbing by free solo the 30 pitches Freerider 7c (+) in Yosemite last year. In his scorecard, including 949 ascents, he commented, "Solo! 3:56 on route. The end of an epic life dream. Such an experience. Logged it as a boulder problem - thanks 8a!"

The National Geographic documentary Free Solo is set to open on theaters September 28.

 
 
Avezou & Rogora winners in Youth A Bouldering  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of strange finals for Youth A in bouldering. A bit too easy for the boys and too hard for the girls. All three medalists among the male got almost identical results as they all did four tops in just five tries. The two best did take the four zones in five tries meanwhile the bronze guy needed five tries.

For the female, only two of the boulders were done and the winner, Laura Rogara flashed them both. (c) Eddie Fowke Complete results

1. Laura Rogora 23 - Sam Avezou 44 (5/4)
2. Lucka Rakovec 14 (4) - Eneko Carretero 44 (5/4)
3. Futaba Ito 14 (5) - Nathan Martin 44 /5/5)

Overall, Japan has been the best country in bouldering with one gold and two bronzes. The big sensation is that Austria has not had one finalists!

 
 
Slaney & Narasaki take first bouldering golds  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHanna Slaney, who never has stood on a IFSC podium before, won the first bouldering gold in Moscow after having been #12 in the qualification and #4 in the semi. Among the boys, Meichi Narasaki, who was second last year in both Lead and Boulder, arrived on top. It was a perfect start thrilling to end with perfect route setting by Jacky Godoffe and his crew. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 

Excellent start of the Youth World's in Moscow with great boulders on volumes and 02.30 PM GMT+3 (Euro 13.30) the junior finals in bouldering starts. Among the male, three Japaneses were ahead in the semifinal and for the female, there were two from Slovenia and one from Japan in the top.

In the Youth A category, with the finals on Sunday, two Japanese girls stood out and among the boys, Sam Avezou, who was #16 in Speed, was the only one with four tops in the semi.

 
 
8c and 8b+' by Chaehyeon Seo (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChaehyeon Seo, who last week did her first 9a, has done Wacka Flocka 8c and the two 8b+'in Rifle; Simply redlined and Zulu. In the 8a ranking game, the 14 year old is #2.

Chaehyeon's father, Jungkuk was #10 in an Ice WC in 2015 and in 2016 he did an 8b+ in Red River Gorge. Back home in Korea, he is a youth trainer in his own gym in Korea. Her mother, Chigon is also an 8a climber and has participated in some World Cups.

 
 
First 8A+ by Maria Davies Sandbu  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMaria Davies Sandbu has after 15 8A'a done her first 8A+, Steinbukken in Dirdal. (c) Martin Mobråten

"Had probably 15 sessions over the last 3 years. I learned to stay patient and try hard no matter the conditions.. I had some epics with the conditions/weather on this one, probably half of the sessions were in the rain and Martin had to dry/prep the holds while I was climbing :) one session we even tied up a tarpaulin over the boulder to try and keep it dry... eventually all the work payed off though!"

 
 
Youth World's in Moscow has begun  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThe Youth World Championship started today in Moscow with the Junior Bouldering Qualifications, updated results. In total, 699 youth athletes from 5 continents and 43 countries will participate. Full schedule 9th to 16th August.

"Every semi-final and final round in Moscow will be live streamed on the IFSC homepage, and follow scores from your phone by downloading the “YWCH 2018” results application. (c) Eddie Fowke

 
 
9a by Ryan Sewell  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyan Sewell has done his second 9a, Moonshine in Wild Iris. Video of the ascent (c) Jacob Mutchler-Brown

"It took around 12 tries total. I first tried it during the summer of 2017 to see how it would feel but didn't return that season. This year I went out to The Wild Iris with the goal of doing Moonshine specifically. I put in a few goes to dial in the body positions, because with a route that's only 24 moves every move needed to be executed precisely. Over three weekends this summer I had six attempts falling on the crux move- a dynamic stab to a slot that's only good for two fingers (photo is of this move.)

In the end, the time I stuck the move I went to the top. The route definitely suits my style being that it's more bouldery and powerful. The pockets are actually much nicer that it might seem and the movement is excellent. BJ TIlden is the routes developer and first ascensionist and he did an amazing job with this route and so many others at The Wild Iris. We all have so much appreciation for everything he's done for the Wyoming climbing community."

 
 
The Recovery Drink 8c+++? by Daniel Jung  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Jung comes with the amazing news on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Nico Favresse’s The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord in Norway from 2013. Nico did not suggest a grade of the 35 meter trad route but saying it was his hardest ever crack. In fact, 8c+ or harder have been mentioned by very experienced trad climbers having tried it.

Comparing it to 9a sport routes, this just might be as hard or even harder than some but it seems trad grades, currently going to 8c+, use another scale. One reason for this could be that in trad you are supposed to place all gear on lead meanwhile in sport climbing this ethics were left in the beginning of the sport era. It should be mentioned that Daniel, who has done La Rambla 9a+, did place on lead menwhile Nico left some gear in place on easier sextions saying a more pure ascent could be done. (c) Fred Moix

 
 
8B (A+) by Alizee Dufraisse  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlizee Dufraisse has done The Arch 8B (A+) in Rocklands. In the 8a ranking game, the former successful competition climber who also have done La Reina Mora 9a (8c+), is #6.

"I start trying this project this year and it took me eight sessions, it was hard to manage with my brain because I was really close for a long time but the temperatures were hot!!! I'm really happy to have finally send it today!! Now I can try new boulders :)"

 
 
9a FA by Thibault Lair again  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThibault Lair has done his third 9a FA in Bielsa, My little princess after 15 days of projecting.

"It has the same start as "Soul surfer". A first part that must make a big 8c. Then comes a bad rest before attacking the hard section and then there is 15 meters of climbing where you have to fight the resistance. For me, the second part is also worth 8c. Thanks to Daniel Fuertes for bolting it."

 
 
8B flash and an 8C by Daniel Woods  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta that he has flashed Eskimo Brothers 8B in Topside and done the first repeat of Paul Robinson's recent The Pirate's Code 8C in Three Corners. "Sent on my 3rd night session. It bakes in the sun all day, so night sessions are the way to go.(c) Chikara Ishizuka

Daniel has been one of the very best climbers in the world during the last 15 years having done 20+ routes 9a to 9b, 20+ boulders 8C and 8C+, flashed 8B+ and won a Boulder WC in 2010.

How was the 8B beta flash story?
Haha that one was a bit better. I got the flu a couple nights before and was up all night vomiting. After a rest day I knew I had to get out of bed and get the blood flowing to feel better. After an intense uphill hike, I got to some easier problems and felt ultra weak on them. I wanted to try something harder so checked out Paul's (Robinsons) crimp line, Eskimo brothers. The condis were perfect and the line straight forward, so I decided to try and flash it and then it just happened

How much beta did you get?
Actually no beta. Was probably more onsight, but since you can grab every hold from the ground it takes away that true onsight feel. To be honest its hard to truly onsight lower boulders due to that. Was pretty stoked. I'm not the best first try climber haha, so when I get that experience it feels good.

Do you not forget your big flash of Nicole's Entlige? (A confirmed 8C that now is 8B+.)
Haha, ya that was another lucky moment.

 
 
8B (A+) by Jule Wurm  (23) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJule Wurm, world champion in 2014 who retired from the scene in 2015 after having won the European Championship, has done Fragile Steps 8B (A+) in Rocklands.

How is your life and climbing nowadays?
Life is good! It’s great to be in Rocklands! I spent a year in the US last year for my studies and did neuroscience research for my MD thesis. Did lots of climbing while being in Boston, broke my ankle in spring climbing outdoors and then broke my arm in a gym there in the beginning of October.

How did you train to speed up the recovery?
For my arm I had surgery right after the accident and they put two metal implants to fix the fractures. Recovery went slower then I had wished, but I tried to listen to my body and did whatever felt okay. I returned to Germany earlier this year to finish med school and did lots of training to get in shape for Rocklands.

Lots of fingerboarding, board sessions on a 45 degree wall and TRX training. There still are some hand positions that don’t feel comfortable for my arm, but all in all I’m very happy with where I am climbing wise!

What kind of job are you looking for and how will you combine this with hard core climbing?
I'm not really sure yet what I wanna do later. I either wanna do research again or work as a doctor, or maybe some kind of public health related job not really sure yet. And of course I hope to always find enough time for climbing no matter what job I will do.

 
 
Second 8A+ by Leah Dempsey  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLeah Dempsey has done her second 8A+, Myology in XXXX. In the female 8a ranking game the Australien is #9. (c) Matt Norgrove

 
 
International Climbing Survey  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAre you a passionate rock climber? Do you prefer climbing in the gym? How can your climbing gym improve their service? Share your thoughts in the climbers’ survey – as a reward, you will get a climbing guidebook of your choice in the Vertical-Life Climbing app.

This international survey is intended to learn more about climbers’ habits and their requirements for climbing gyms. The results will be published in special interest media and will be shared with climbing gyms and route setters.

You can take the survey in English or in German

 
 
9a FA by Ramonet again  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRamon Julian Puigblanque, the double lead world champion, has done his 14th 9a FA Escalfit in Collsuspina. "A project of many years very similar to Frankenjura, today I have done the first ascent! Now for more! (c) Riki Kalamontse

In total the 36 year old and 159 cm tall has done 50 routes 9a and 9a+. Including also 20 World Cups win the last 18 years, he should be considered one of the best climbers in the world since 2000.

 
 
9a (8c+) by Chaehyeon Seo (14)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureChaehyeon Seo, who did her first 8b+ being 12 years old, has done Bad Girls Club 9a Rifle. Few have suggested 8c+ but Daniel Woods have commented, "For sure harder than most 9as that I have done."

Her father is a gym owner and takes her for long climbing trips every year. "She climbs and trains after she gets out of school. Her training time is about 5hours a day when she does. I make her training plans and I make new climbing problems for her on the spray wall daily. I would like her to be a climber that truly joins climbing."

 
 
Speed and Lead Highlights from Arco  Facebook
 

 
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Albarracín
 
Mike Gabl

Sami in "Les aneaux de
saturne" 7b / Quinson /
France
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
ırı
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Michaela Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Andrew conroy

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Gus Carter

Mullentino V6/7A
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
0.1 point for touching/controlling the Top in Bouldering  (2) Facebook
As you probably know, based on the change in the IFSC bouldering rule, it is possibly to present the results as points. Last year I was part of a Working Group in IFSC invited to a meeting in Munich where I suggested one bonus point for a flash as well as increase to two zones.

One reason for this is to make competitions more fair based on how good the athletes did climb. Two zones will also reduce the risk for going home empty handed with zero zones, aka 0 points as happened often for 10 % of the field like in Moscow YWC.

Another way, or in a combination, to make the comps more fair and understandable for the spectators could be to give 0.1 point for touching (or controlling) the final hold with one hand. Alternatively, you can define the second zone as controlling the top with one hand.

It is simply not fair that one climber who just reaches the zone gets as good score as, or possibly even better, compared to the one who climbs several moves longer and falls matching the final hold. It should be mentioned that such unfairness happens more often for the ones further down the list who do not make several tops.
 
Total Japanese domination in Bouldering  Facebook
In total, Japan did get three golds and four bronzes. The runner up is France with one medal in each color and a total of five finalists. The big sensation is that Austria has just have had one athlete in the final which can be compared with 12 for Japan.

In 2017, Japan got nine youngsters on the podium and a total of ten finalists. The country that has dropped the most in 2018, is USA who got two golds and another two medals in 2017. This year, they just did get two in 6th position.
 
Dani Arnold sets new Speed record above Chamonix  Facebook
 
7C+ by Keegan Sullivan (8)  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKeegan Sullivan started climbing being four years old and did his first 7A being six years old. Now two years later he has done his first 7C+, Freedom Fries in Grayson Highlands State Park. Even more impressive is his grade pyramid made out of 101 recorded ascents. His father Brandon says the family focus is outdoors and just the last year they have traveled 29 times to twelve different locations, also including two younger brothers also pushing hard.

Our family was brand new to climbing just four years ago. Keegan would not be climbing at this level without the amazing support we have received from our local community. His gyms, coaches and teammates keep climbing fun. Our friends, the Collin and Kelly families, introduced us to crags, climbing technique, competitions, and to an even larger community.

Perhaps the thing that separates Keegan most from other youth climbers is his mature ability to project challenging problems. When arriving at a boulder, Keegan will set out the pads, clean and brush holds, and work all of the moves. Then he will meticulously link sections of the boulder until he finds a nice flow in the sequence. We routinely see him work problems with intense focus and persistence, sometimes lasting hours and multiple
sessions.”
 
Junior Boulder Finals Euro 13.30  Facebook
 
Cody Roth under the radar interview  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClimbing has presented an interesting under the radar interview with Cody Roth (34). He has been a very dedicated climber half his life although not following the mainstream and thus staying under the radar in spite recently doing his first 9a+, being #6 in his first Lead WC being 19 years old, made the first repeat of a Manolo 8b+ and also done hard sport routes on trad. Insta mainly non-climbing focus.

Having grown up in the outskirts of Albuquerque, New Mexico, I’m not used to being around a lot of people, so crowded crags don't make me happy,” Roth told Climbing over the phone from his seasonal home in one of the world’s most remote places, Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. There he does rope access work in oil fields seven days a week, 12 to 16 hours a day, for 24 weeks a year, before taking the rest of the year off to climb with his wife."

Now Cody and his wife Melissa have started to work for Vertical-Life and they will be moving to Brixen in the autumn working with sales, development and content. Just recently, they introduced the first U.S. climbing gym to the VL app, Crux Climbing Center, in their current home town Austin.
 
Ghisolfi agrees to 8a flash ethics  Facebook
Stefano Ghisolfi has published some interesting thoughts on his Insta which goes in hand with the 8a suggested ethics.

"About my recent post, I think if 2 routes share a part it is not possible to flash both. So, my second one it is not flash, but first go! But I think there should be some exceptions, like if the part in common is much easier that doesn't add any difficulty, maybe it is possible to consider both flash. The most important thing is to be very fair with yourself and the others and tell clearly everything you do."
 
IN OWN MATTER: Designers and Software Engineers wanted  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureProject and After Sales Manager
Are you an organisational and communication talent? As a Project and After Sales Manager at Vertical Life, you will work closely with different divisions of our team, above all with Sales, Support and Marketing. Among other tasks, you will be responsible for account management and support, after sales marketing, relevant promotional activities and performing other tasks needed to ensure customer satisfaction. You will also be involved in the strategic communication planning and in the creation of campaigns. As our company is growing fast, new ideas are welcome and your self initiative is required.
Job and application details

UX / UI Designer
Are you enthusiastic about user experience design? Do you enjoy the challenge of transforming strategic customer journeys into appealing interface design? Vertical-Life is looking for an experienced UX Designer for mobile and web projects. You will be joining our highly motivated team of climbers, business strategists, product managers, designers, engineers, and merchandisers. You will be working on user experience strategies for our existing apps and websites as well as for new projects from the ground up.
Job and application details

Software Engineer Mobile
As a software engineer with focus on iOS and/or Android mobile development, you will develop next-generation, large scale mobile apps. You support our team in existing projects, as well as manage individual products, priorities, deadlines and deliverables. You develop, test, deploy, maintain and enhance software solutions.
Job and application details

Applications to: careers@vertical-life.info
 
Schenk and his crew in Céüse up to 9a  Facebook
 
Boulder "problem" topo for Moravian Karst  Facebook
Click to Enlarge Picture"Bouldering in Moravian Karst is a strange discipline..." By reading Adam Ondra's describing his backyard training area and checking the topos you understand that we are more talking about problems like in the gym rather then doing boulders in Font or Rocklands.

Another striking thing is the extremely steep looking 5C's next to a 7C. If some of the low graded boulders are not severely sandbagged there are several future classical super juggy to be found. On the contrary, Lidomorna should be the hardest cave for bouldering in whole world (5x 8C and harder, 5x 8B and harder just on few square meters). Free Digital version or buy the printed version.
 


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