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Briancon Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
9a FA by Manu Lopez who just became a father  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureManu Lopez has done his third 9a FA, Coup fourré in Faron nord after some 30 days of projecting it. Fanatic Climbing has the full report including more pics by (c) Théo Cartier

"I wanted to finish it this spring before the birth of my son but conditions were bad and the route remained wet. I finally did good progress after the birth, tired by short nights but more fresh with more rests between the climbing days."

 
 
8B again by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus, who previously has done two 8B+’, has done her 14th 8B, Doppelgänger Poltergeist in RMNP, in just four sessions. James Lucas

Did all the moves the first day and fell on the end on the 2nd, then the boulder started being wet. Ending up doing it while it was soaked just cause I was so psyched, and i tired super super hard to make sure I finished it! Psyched to step my game up more! Great power endurance boulder tho! Definitely a hard 8b, excited to feel good coming to Africa :)"

 
 
13th 9b FA by Adam Ondra  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done the FA of Disbelief 9b in Acephale. "Project from Calgary climber Josh Muller who worked on it quite a bit and actually did all the moves! Took me 8 days of effort, mental battle with one low percentage. In the end, I think it is pretty high-end 9b, but I do not have the courage to call it 9b+. 7C+ into 8C boulder without any rest into easy finish."

More info on his Insta where he also says, "I cannot think many other routes where I climbed so close to my limit."(c) Petr Pavlicek - Bernartwood

In total Adam has now, beside three 9b+' and one 9c FAs, 19 routes graded 9b out of which 13 FAs. The runner ups in the 9b and harder stat are Chris Sharma with eight routes followed by Stefano Ghisolfi four, Alex Megos, Jakob Schubert and Dani Andrada with three.

 
 
Megos and Garnbret win in Briancon  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, winner in Chamonix last week, topped the spectacular route putting pressure on Anak Verhoeven and Janja Garnbret who started last out. Anak did also reach the top jug but fell of meanwhile Janja seemed to have full control, securing her 12th Lead WC victory.

Among the male, Alex Megos got his first victory by getting two holds further than the rest touching the last hold. He said he thought the route suited his style with some crimpers in the end instead of the modern volume and vulcano style holds. Noteworthy is that none of the athletes were even close to be timed out so it seems the athletes are getting used to climb a bit faster at the same time the route setting was quite straight forward. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Janja Garnbret SLO - Alex Megos GER
2. Jessica Pilz AUT - Roman Desgranges FRA
3. Anak Verhoeven BEL - Domen Skofic SLO
Complete results

 
 
Exciting end of the semi in Briancon  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKind of a slow semi until Anak Verhoeven was timed out and pulled down as she was getting ready for dynoing to the top. Then, suddenly, a heavy rain storm started as Janja Garnbret and Romain Desgranges started to climb and luckily they both made it to the finals as the wall begun to get wet from above. If the rain storm would have come just some minuters earlier, the whole semi might have been cancelled. (c) Eddie Fowke

Noteworthy is that 50 % of the female finalists come from Slovenia and Domen Skofic is leading among the male. It should also be mentioned that most of the best Japanese and Jain Kim from Korea did not participate due to the Asian cup coming up. Nevertheless, Japan did have seven guys into the semi. Complete results

 
 
8A+ (B) by Anna Liina Laitinen  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnna Liina Laitinen reports on Insta that she has done Daniel Woods’ Fragile Steps 8A+ (B) in Rocklands. (c) Jess Talley Previously, Anna has done several 8c+’ as well as 8b onsight.

This year I wanted to go somewhere where I haven’t been before and Rocklands is a good place to go on a summer time and it was a new one for me. I also wanna get more powerrrrr :)

I learned alot on this trip and everything I’ve learned will help me on sport climbing. I’d also love to do trad this year and get better as a climber in general, challenge myself in a different levels etc!!!”

 
 
8a+ flash and much more by Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOriane Bertone has during the last two weeks done ten routes 8a to 8b including four flashes where La Ballade d’abdallah 8a+ in St Leger sticks out. Previously the 13 year old has done two 8B boulders, being 11 years old, and one 8B+ being 12.

 
 
Ondra's skin and onsight school in Canmore  Facebook
 

 
 
8b by Cathy Wagner (52) again  (3) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 15th 8b, Requiem in Précipice de Corbière. The almost 53 year old did her first 8b being 35 years old and as a matter of fact, during the last year she has done three 8b's and 16 routes 8a+, meaning she has her best year ever. In total, Cathy has done 670 routes 8a and harder, out of which possibly a third second go.

"Really unexpected to do this outstanding king line! A massive overhang offering climbing at its best:perfect rock, two hard sections, a technical wall at the end and knee bars to make it possible to control this beast! What a great day shared with a lot of friendly climbers! Super contente!!"

 
 
Briancon Paraclimbing Highlights  (1) Facebook
 

 
 
Robinson's exploring SA video  Facebook
 

 
 
8C FA by Paul Robinson  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePaul Robinson, who has done some 900 boulders 8A and harder, has done the FA of Pirate’s Code in Three Corners. In total, Paul has put up 75 boulders here out of which 26 8A and harder. Three Corners is located

"Words cannot really describe this one. It has been a dream of mine to climb this boulder since i first found it in 2014. 16, 17, 18 were spent working this monster of a line and now it is complete. the king line in my favorite place in the world. does it really get any better than this!? Climbing is such an incredible thing and it feels really good to complete this goal after thinking about it for so so long. *I have eliminated the stand start from last year since it is a slightly arbitrary start. the full line is the line and now is THE PIRATE'S CODE! I look forward to some other strong guys trying this climb one day! I only ever tried it by myself so it will be great to see what others think of it :)"

 
 
8c+ by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt has done Demonstrating my Style 8c+ in Frankenjura on his fourth go. The 17 year old is one of the 8a members that are ticking most routes and boulders and just the last three weeks, he has done 16 routes 8a and harder.

 
 
9a+ FA by Jorge Díaz-Rullo  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Díaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that has done the FA of Panorama 9a+ in Patones, Spain. ©Germán González

"Yes! After a lot of days trying it, getting the good betas and even failing ... Today I've done maybe the hardest route I've climbed so far! It's never easy to climb a first ascent, and much less if the betas are yours ... I'm already wishing to someone's repeat! I will miss the wall but Panorama 9a +? is already on my list !!

In the ranking game Jorge #1 in Spain and #5 in the world ranking.

 
 
9a+ in Rodellar by Piotr Schab  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab, #2 in the 8a ranking game, has done Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ in Rodellar. "What a way to finish the trip! Extra extension, in my opinion makes a big difference. Super complicated route, to get to know all the tricks seems to be a crux. First ascent of this combination I guess."

 
 
8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did an 8c in 2016 being 11 years old, has done the fourth ascent of Szydercze zwierciadło 8c+ in Podzamcze. video

"It is very short - 5 quickdraws, and 12 cruxy moves on slopy mono holes, so it is quite hard to find the beta there. The holds were so bad, that I couldn't even use my chalk bag. But when the beta was finally found, i understood, that the hardest work is still undone. For example, I found the beta on the third day of climbing, and I climbed the route only on the 8-th day. It is due to the required accuracy of the moves. If i will put the leg a centimeter higher, I won't be able to do the move. And exactly the same situation happened with hands."

 
 
Pilz and Ghisolfi win another perfect show in Chamonix  (19) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz and Stefano Ghisolfi were the only ones topping out the great final routes in Chamonix in front of 10 000 spectators. For Jessica it was her first WC victory after having been second six times. For Stefano, it was his fourth WC win. (C) Eddie Fowke

1. Jessica Pilz AUT - Stefano Ghisolfi ITA
2. Janja Garnbret SLO - Jakob Schubert AUT
3. Jain Kim KOR - Alex Megos GER
Complete results.

 
 
Battle Cat 8c/+ by Sarah Kampf (37)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Kampf, who pre- viously has sent four 8c's, has done Battle Cat 8c/+ in Frankenjura after some 15 days of work. © Lars Decker

"Battle Cat is the most beautiful route I have climbed so far. The line is amazing and with its ca. 30 meters it is really uni- que for Fran- ken. It requi- res both endu- rance and max power, the single parts are pretty varied. Clipping the anchor of Battle Cat means a lot to me and I am very grateful for the people who supported this journey, it wouldn't have been possible without them."

How can you explain continuing being on your peak being 37 and with two small kids?
Hm, not quite sure, it is probably several reasons. I love climbing so much and I am really motivated. I have great climbers surrounding me who are inspiring me a lot. Furthermore, I am lucky to only work parttime which gives me time to train. And most important: I get awesome support by my husband. I don't follow a specific training regime but when time is too short to climb outdoors I often do some finger board training at home.

 
 
8 male Japanese Top-19 in Chamonix qually  (11) Facebook
 

Alexander Megos, Jakob Schubert, Janja Garnbret, Jain Kim, Anak Verhoeven and Akiyo Noguchi topped both qualification routes in Chamonix. Other then that, all big names but Max Rudigier #76 and Julia Chanourdie #32made it to the semi. Interesting is that eight male Japanese qualified Top-19 and among the female four made it to the semifinal. In total, 92 female and 111 male participated. Complete results

 
Sebastian Maya

Momento es un boulder d
e los más bonitos de Mi
neral, un super clásico
que no te puedes perde
r!
 
Michaela Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Albarracín
 
Bram Honorez

souvenir 8A/+ Chironic
o
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone Wow Prow
"Death camp into stomp
omp blues" 8a+ flash
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Sofia Boulder EYC  Facebook
99: Pierre Le Cerf FRA - Urska Repusic SLO
01: Alberto Gines ESP - Camilla Moroni ITA
03: Eliot Barnabe FRA - Luce Douady FRA

France dominated the Euro Youth Cup in Sofia with three golds. Urska Repusic was the only one to top out all 8 + 4 boulders. Complete results
 
Lead World Cup 2018  (3) Facebook
1. Janja Garnbret 280 - Jakob Schubert 235
2. Jessica Pilz 260 - Stefano Ghisolfi 206
3. Ashima Shiraishi 150 - Alex Megos 202
4. Jain Kim 130 - Romain Desgranges 164
5. Manon Hily 120 - Domen Skofic 163
6. Anak Verhoeven 116 - Sascha Lehmann 101
Complete rankings
 
Karo Sinnhuber in Silvretta  Facebook
 
The Simplicity and Beauty of bouldering  Facebook
 
Kyparissi  Facebook
 
Provisional Combined Ranking 2018  Facebook
As a preparation for the Olympic Games qualification, IFSC has changed the Overall ranking. Only athletes that have participated in at least two events per discipline are included in the ranking. In other words, in the below ranking, Tomoa Narasaki's score of 8 is based on 1 * 1 * 2 * 4 * 1 *1 (Boulder/Lead/Speed). His best result is Speed is #31 but as none of the 30 higher ranked have participated in also Lead and Boulder, he is the #1 ranked in Speed. Noteworthy is that 9 out of the Top-8*2 come from Japan.

1. Tomoa Narasaki 8 - Miho Nonaka 24
2. Jakob Schubert 192 - Akiyo Noguchi 120
3. Kokoro Fujii 270 - Iuliia Pantaleeva 3 528
4. Yoshiyuki Ogata 960 - Mei Kotake 8 064
5. Jernej Kruder 9 504 - Petra Klingler 8 600
6. Kai Harada 10 800 - Futaba Ito 15 360
7. Yufei Pan 21546 - Jain Kim 16 016
8. Keita Dohi 45 696 - Elena Krasovskaia 17576
Complete results
"11.7.8 Only competitors who compete in a minimum of 2 (two) World Cup competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) in the current season shall be given an Overall World Cup Ranking. When a competitor participates to more than 2 (two) competitions in a discipline than the best 2 (two) results in that discipline shall be selected.
11.7.9 The Overall World Cup Ranking shall be calculated as follows:
i. Each eligible competitor shall be awarded “Ranking Points” for each completed competition equal to the relative ranking calculated by ranking in ascending order (i.e. lower values are better) only competitors satisfying Article 11.7.8.
ii. A Ranking Point Total shall be calculated for each relevant competitor by
multiplying together the Ranking Points awarded for each eligible competition.
iii. Each relevant competitor shall be ranked in ascending order of the Ranking Point Total calculated for each competitor (i.e. lower values are better)."
 
Chamonix Finals Highlights  Facebook
 
Free topo for Silvapark  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureVertical-Life is giving away a free topo for Silvapark bouldering in their app! With the promo code BUMERANG, you can unlock the area, which is part of the Alpen en Bloc climbing guidebook by Panico.

authors: Florian Wenter & Lorenz Delago
picture by Daniel Horwath
 
New topo for Rocklands with 2500+ boulders  (3) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureTonight there will be a release party for the new topo of Rocklands with 2500+ problems in 480 pages. Livin' Large has been given 8C+ by author Scott Noy. Grades have been updated and for morpho (height dependent), slash grades have been used.
 
Ondra's recovery from an 8 meter ground fall  (1) Facebook
Adam Ondra did have an eight meter ground fall in February. Here is his recovery story from his Physio/Osteopath Klaus Isele.
 


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