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Southern drawl 8B+ (C) by Taylor McNeill  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTaylor McNeill has done the second ascent of James Webb's Southern drawl in Chattanooga suggesting an upgrade to 8C.

"15 days over two years. Hardest to date by a longshot. 100% my style, couldn't have designed a better boulder for my body. Ultimate satisfaction in finishing the one the last day of my trip. Drove 8 hours immediately after sending to catch my flight out. A true battle to make the 2nd ascent of this one. Jimmy is on one, I'm sure consensus will land at v15 when/if this gets repeated.A huge step up in my climbing, ON TO THE NEXT!!

It should be noted that previously, several of James' FAs have been subject of being upgraded. Three days ago, Daniel Woods reported on Insta that he has done Squoze in Red Rocks.

"@jwebxl proposed 8B+(v14) but hes too damn strong in this style... i dont suck at compression nor is it my forte, but felt it took a shit on all the v14 compression lines I have done. will leave it at 14/15 and others can confirm."

 
 
Bio-Affinity 8B by Oriane Bertone (13)  (1) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done Bio-Affinity 8B in Rocklands which is an extended version to War of Attrition 8A+, which she did two days ago. Both boulders were put up as 8B's by David Graham in 2014. The 13 year old is now the new ranking game #1. The video is just mind blowing.

 
 
No Kpote Only 9A FA in Font barefoot by Charles Albert  (49) Facebook
 

Grimper reports that Charles Albert has made the FA of No Kpote only 9A in Fontainebleau. "Mowgli" stopped using shoes some five years ago and says the biggest problem is that you have to rest more in order for the toe skin to recover.

Previously he has done a handful 8C's and one 8C+ in Fontainebleau, out of which several unrepeated. Video from last year together with Giuliano Cameroni, who comments.

"If you use climbing shoes you need them super soft and no you would execute a slightly different move: instead of swinging with your left arm straight and your body out of the wall, you try to rock on the right foot, stay close to the wall and fall into the shoulder. The first three moves are more or less 8A. The the two crux moves, iron shoulder into cross, followed by the 7C+ stand."

It should be mentioned that the 7C+ finish, which is not in the video, was chipped some years ago.

 
 
La Fabelita 8c by Nika Potapova (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNika Potapova has done her second 8c, La Fabelita in Santa Linya. The pic by Henning Wang is three years old when she first tried it being 12 years old.

"She worked on the route just for few days and fell several times on the last hard move on her last day. The hanger of the last bolt had fell of so she took some very long falls and hit the wall some times due to a bad belayer. Great will power to try hard."

Some months later she did her her first 8c. When she was 13 years old, Nika hung on the Zlagboard for some 2 min and 40 seconds, which is an un-official female world record.

 
 
8B and 8A+ flashes by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has flashed his second 8B, PFC in Albarracin where he the day before flashed Zarzaparilla 8A+. One year ago he had a bad snow board accident where he ruptured the acromion joint that left him with two plates in the shoulder. He started training in May and then in September he was #25 in the Boulder WCH. More pics and training videos on his Insta.

 
 
Ondra's Hot Pork Sundae 8b from a drone perspective  Facebook
 

 
 
Le monde perdu 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  (6) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 149th 8a+, Le monde perdu in Destel. "An exceptional route defined by a very physical endurance effort (for me anyway) as you climb on the edge of a prow-like overhang. Took me 2 days to get the right beta and was totally wasted afterwards! Today, I managed to send it straight away after warming-up, thanks to the perfect conditions and Seb cheering me. Getting fit again after a bad cold which lasted 3 weeks feels good!

In total the 53 year old has done 703 routes 8a to 8b during the last 25 years. Interestingly, like one third she has done second go. Possibly it is time to raise the bar to 8b+ in 2019?

 
 
13 boulders 7C to 8A+ by Max Bertone (11)  Facebook
 

Max Bertone, little brother to Oriane, starts to catch up to her level. During two weeks, the 11 year old has done 13 boulders 7C to 8A+, ouct of which second go of Proa 7C+ and Light Saber 8A+ in less than ten tries sticks out. As a matter of a fact, the latter was put up by Dave Graham as an 8B but it has been recorded as a soft 8A. Both are captured in this video.

 
 
The Wheel of Fortune 8B by Isabelle Faus  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done her
17th 8B, The Wheel of Fortune in Clear Creek Canyon and she is #1 in the 8a ranking game. In total, she has now done 107 boulders 8A to 8B+. Next project is Memory is Parallax 8B+.

"Started trying last year. Two of the moves took me like ten sessions to be able to do... super outta my style... one huge move and another really dynamic pop. Coming of an injury I was kinda using this boulder as a way to learn how to do big moves. Last year after a lot of effort I eventually made my way to the last move... and then we flew to Swiss the next day.

This year I got back to my high point quickly and fell there a bunch. Then yesterday I found slightly better beta for this move and did it pretty quick after that. Really satisfying to do moves easily that last year seemed crazy... next is the top section and try and link em."

 
 
The Master Key 8B by Oriane Bertone (13)  (11) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done another three hard boulders in Rocklands; Sassy squash 8A, The arch 8A+and The Master Key in Rocklands. "Fantastic hidden boulder ! One hard move. I found my beta at the third session and solve this problem. Very happy for this ascent!

In total, the 13 year old has now done 39 boulders 8A to 8B+, out of which 19 the last 12 months and she is #2 in the 8a ranking game. One more 8B, and she takes over the crown from Isabelle Faus.

 
 
8c+ and 8B's FA by Toni Lamprecht (47)  (4) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToni Lamprecht, legendary hard core FA-ionist in all disciplines; 9a routes, 8C boulders, 8c MPs and 8c DWS, has recorded his sends from 2018. On the pic he shows god adaptation to the modern school with his double dyno of Seitensprung 8c in Kochel. Add to that 8c+ and 8B boulders FAs. With his 88 kg on his 187 cm, the 47 year old might be the biggest multi-discipline climber operating world class level. In total he has put some 2 000 boulders, routes, MPs and DWS. 8a interview from 2009 - Insta 2019.

What are you most impressed by the new generation?
The most impressive is the huge number of very very good climbers and a lot of them almost unknown, too. And of course the top five people doing everything from boulder to multipitch and they seem very "grounded" and open minded. Wish the political world would have leaders like that..

How do you train nowadays and what is your 2019 ambition?
Normally 2-3 times in the week. I rest if I go skiing or in the summer while surfing. No training the last years only climbing outdoors or trying projects, because my "old" body needs a lot of rest after every climbing day.
In 2019 I'd like to try a really hard boulder project nearhome (15m roof), work on the FSK-Project, a possible solid 9th-grade-route and travel a lot for skiing.

 
 
A Muerte 9a by Jan Hojer  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer, #3 in the Combined WCH in Innsbruck, has done his second 9a route, A Muerte in Siurana. His first was Action Directe in 2010. The 186 cm tall and 78 kg powerhouse has also done the 9b DWS, Es Pontas last year.

"My only goal for the 2019 season is to qualify for the Olympics. If I qualify at the world championship I will spend a lot of time on rock afterwards! Right now I just want to enjoy some rock before the season starts and climb a bunch of nice routes here in Spain."

How many World Cups do you plan to do this year?
As many as I need to qualify for Toulouse. (The qualification event for the ones not getting their ticket in the WCH). If I have great results in Meiringen and Moscow I will not go to China.

How much Speed focus in your training?
I try to train speed once a week but haven’t done any leg training. I think with better coordination and technique I can still improve a lot. I hope to get to 6.7 until the world championship.

 
 
8B and two 8A+' by Ashima Shiraishi (17)  (2) Facebook
 

Ashima Shiraishi, #5 in the Lead WCH in Innsbruck, reports on her Insta that she has done two 8A+' and Tilted World 8B. (c) Ben Burk

The 17 year old is a contender for having the best boulder and route ticklist out of all female. She did her first 9a being 14 years old and two years ago she did an 8C boulder, Horizon.

 
 
Two 7C+' by Keegan Sullivan (9) in Hueco Tanks  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKeegan Sullivan, who did his first 7C when he was 7 years old having climbed in just over a year, has done two 7C+'s in Hueco Tanks; Dead Serious and Stubby of the Bush Veldt. During the week he also sent three 7C's and onsighted two 7A+' and three 7A's.

His father Brandon comments, "Being in Hueco exemplifies what we love about climbing. In traditional sports, few athletes have the opportunity to engage with the professional experience. Yet in climbing, we can visit the same venues, read the same beta, and pull on the same holds as the legends that precede us. Keegan loved the opportunity to send problems that have been ticked by many of his idols."

Family blog with more pics
and info about also his two younger bouldering brothers Killian (7) and Lochlann (5).

 
 
Amazing 8a offwidth trad fight by Adam Ondra  (2) Facebook
 

 
 
A Muerte 9a (8c+) by Vojtěch Trojan (19)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVojtěch Trojan, who won the Czech bouldering Championship last month, has done his first 9a (8c+), A Muerte in Siurana. (c) Martin Pelikán

"It took me 5 days. I think that this route suits me well. It's short, bouldery and powerful, almost without rest, pretty similar to competition climbing style nowadays. definitely one of the best routes I've ever climbed.

In 2019, I'm gonna try my best in WC circuit for sure, but still want to focus at outdoor climbing more than ever."


Three years ago, Vojtěch fell from 8 meters in the gym and which also created some fatigue syndroms and it was not until last year he could train maximum again. His personal best was 8c before A Muerte which he did two weeks ago in Margalef.

 
 
Eight 8A's by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, #8 in the last Boulder WC 2018, has had a very productive trip doing eight 8A's out of which La persistencia de la memoria (8A+ in the topo) and Pamplemousse 8A sticks out. "Might be the most beautiful boulder in Ticino." (c) Michael Eisenmann - Entwash.

"I was in Ticino from 26th December till 5th January. Due to perfect weather we had only 3 rest days. I spent a lot of time in the gym the last couple of weeks to get in shape for the trip, which worked out quite well. I havn't really done much boulders in Ticino yet, so I decided to literally "run through" the 8As and go for harder stuff next time. I might return in February for a week or so, if the weather is fine.

2019... I'm super psyched at the moment for outdoor climbing! Definitely have to go to Maltatal again to finish "Air" 8B. Rocklands in summer are also tempting to finish "Ray of Light" and "L'Arche", both 8B. Or maybe Hueco through December. So many wishes and possibilities, so little money to spend! Bummer. Regarding competitions: we will see how it goes. There are now only 5 starting spots (instead of 6) for the world cups and we are around 10 girls who want to compete. And the young guns are pretty strong :)"
Full blogspot report with more superb pictures.

 
 
Two 8B's by Clay Gordon (17)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClay Gordon reports on Insta that he has sent in different days but in one session, two 8B's in Bishop, Spectre and Buttermilker. He also did The Mystery 8A+ and Evilution Direct 8A. Pic from Spectre, © Michael Pang

Clay was 4th at the Youth World Championships in 2016 and four times he has been the national champion in USA.

 
 
Estato Critico 9a (8c+) by Marcello Bombardi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarcello Bombardi, winner of the Chamonix Lead WC in 2017, has done Estato Critico 9a (8c+) and L'odi Social 8c+ in Siurana. (c) Elisa Negro

"They took me two days each, five attempts for Estado Critico and seven for L'odi social. In 2019 I will focus on the competition and especially on the combined, trying to get a pass for Tokyo 2020. It would be a dream to qualify for the Olympics."

 
 
Goofy 8c by Alex Totkova (13)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Totkova, who is #9 in the 8a ranking game, has done her first 8c, Goofy in Leonidio. "Cool route is Goofy. It starts with less difficult movements. You can squeeze your knees twice. Passage is the transfer from one route to the other. Then go on 8a+."

Alex compared her previous achievement, a route called "4x4" at the home crag Vratsa 8b+, as "The cruxes at Groofy were riskier. Now I would try something harder"."

 
Stefan Billmeier

Bamboozalled, V7 Laos/T
hakhek - a perfect bloc
, wonderful line, solid
V7
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Jon Shen

Floflo Grunewald on OAK
A IC (8a) at Limeri.
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Sebastian Maya

El Techo del Puma, Ciud
ad Universitaria, Méxic
o
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Miska Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
nik
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Kyra Condie and Zach Galla win US Combined  Facebook
1. Kyra Condie - Zach Galla
2. Brooke Raboutou - Nathaniel Coleman
3. Natalia Grossman - Sean Bailay
4. Ashima Shiraishi - Collin Duffy
5. Margo Hayes - Drew Ruana

Kyra won actually all but Speed where she was #3 and should be put on the short list for one of the contenders for qualifying to Tokyo. Both Margo and Ashima suffer most from being like three second slower than best in Speed.

Among the male, Zach's victory must be considered as big surprise as he was #9 and #16 in the Youth World's last year. The 18 year did below 6.84 in three rounds which is at the highest standard for the non-Speed specialists. Complete results
 
Mellow - New Climbing Media Collection  Facebook
Shawn Raboutou, Giuliano Cameroni, Jimmy Webb, Keenan Takahashi, Kevin Takashi Smith and Daniel Woods has started a youtube channel called Mellow.

"A climbing media collection for climbers by climbers. A media platform designed to get you hyped to go out and rage them rocks. Subscribe to our youtube channel and follow our journey."
 
The most repeated are the ones getting down graded  (5) Facebook
The best indicator to spot which routes and boulders are too soft for it's grade is to use statistics, i.e. the number of repeats and personal records. Here is a list of the most repated and almost all are actually subject of being down graded but the classical Action Directe which was put up as a 8c+/9a. It should be mentioned that the routes might be 9a now or in the future because of broken holds.

37 Era Vella
36 Estado Critico
26 Underground
25 Action Directe
20 La Fabela pa la Enmienda confirmed
19 Escltamasters
19 A Muerte
19 Seleccio Natural
17 La Cabane au Canada

In practice, you can search the 8a data base for any hard core grade and you will find that almost all the most repeated are the ones also being subject for a down grade. Climbers are, logically, like water finding the easiest way to set a personal best :)
 
Is barefoot Charles' 9A the hardest boulder in the world?  (8) Facebook
Charles Albert has done seven 8C to 9A boulder problems but what is unique is his barefoot style. If he could go beyond his ethics, using one shoe, there are probably many more hard core boulders to be done, which could be unrepeated for several years. It would take any climber several months to learn and develop their toe strength, bouldering shoe less, but for Charles it is just to lace up.

In regards his No Kpote Only FA in Fontainebleu, there are some ethics question to be answered before we could call it the hardest graded boulder in the world. The grade 9A suggest that when it comes to difficulty it can only be compared to Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams.

The hassle is that it seem more like a constructed problem and not a natural boulder as the start seem contrived. Instead of starting in the first logical sit start position, three traverse moves have been added to the left. This is quite often done in bouldering in order to increase the difficulty. Creating harder challenges are just great but for me, they should be called problems instead of boulders. Further more, the problem finishes with some chipped holds.

In route climbing, sit starts can be said to be the same constructed problems opting for a high grade. The dilemma is that we should not have the hardest and glorified routes and boulders as contrived chipped problems, as this could just popularize such ethics.

So for me, No Kpote Only is not the hardest graded boulder in the world although it is the hardest graded problem. On the other hand, Charles is possibly the first contender to set up the world's first 9A+ if he started to use one shoe!
 
The Free Solo competition is dead - Honnold won  (26) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFREE SOLO is the mind blowing documentary of Alex Honnold preparing and, without a rope, climbs the 900 meters Freerider 7c in Yosemite. Watching him training and doing the boulder crux was almost like watching a horror movie. He and his girlfriend come out as such nice people and just thinking about him falling 900 meters to the ground... On the other hand, there is probably a greater risk trying to summit K2...
Photograph © 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Alex has recorded 961 climbs including three 8c+'. This is his comment of Freerider which he did 17-06-03."Solo! 3:56 on route. The end of an epic life dream. Such an experience. Logged it as a boulder problem - thanks 8a."

8a has a general policy to not publish solo or death potential climbs but we have often made exceptions for Alex Honnold, as his free solos are out there anyway. The very good thing with Freerider is that he has probably more or less killed the free solo genre. Sure some will continue to climb without a rope but the competition is over.
 
Lack of relationship between performance, chronic injuries and BMI  (1) Facebook
Gudmund Grønhaug, project leader at Østfold hospital trust and Flatanger pioneer, has recently published a study showing no associations of performance, chronic injuries and BMI. The study, which includes a web-based questionnaire with 667 climber, is one of the largest epidemiological studies on climbers so far and the only to assess chronic injuries alone.

Although the conclusion seems counter intuitive, the study gives a good explanation on the lack of relationship between performance, chronic injuries and BMI.

For a short-term goal, losing weight might seem to be a good idea to increase the strength to weight ratio. Still, loosing weight means to put a significant stress on the body by under-eating. In this period of undernourishment, the possibility for injuries and sickness or disease raises at the same time as the ability to train as hard as possible drops. In periods of malnutrition restitution is prolonged as well. And that’s for the short-term goals!

In the longer term it seems to be a far better idea to have a few kilos extra, live a happy life and train injury free rather than being skinny! The reason is simple; the body adapts to whatever stress we put to it and losing weight also means training with a lower resistance at each repetition.
The full paper is to be found here.
 
Robinson in beautiful Swiss up to 8B+  Facebook
 
40+ Sport Climber of 2018 - Draft  Facebook
1. Chuck Odette (63)
2. Cathy Wagner (53)
3. Toni Lamprecht (47)
4. Franz Fackler (48)
5. Dai Koyamada (42)
6. Iker Pou (41)
7. Maggie Odette (48)
8. Fabrizio Peri (47)
9. Israel Olcina (43)
10. Matteo Gambaro, Nicola Vonarburg, Johnny Dawes (54), Dino Lagni (50), Gareth Parry (45), Bernhard Schwaiger (43), Jędrzej Wilczyński (44), Duygu Haug (42), Katrin Grûndler (40)
 
IFSC need to clarify the bouldering "onsight" rule  (17) Facebook
Almost everyone knows that you are not allowed to look at the next boulder during comps although it is called flash. However, sometimes it is almost impossible to not have a glance of your next boulder once checking your personal boulder.

The big problem is that in the rules, there is no paragraph, saying that you are not allowed to look at other climbers trying your upcoming boulders. Most probably, a climber checking the other boulders, will be told to not do so by the judges but nevertheless, the important beta might just have been found.

What will happen if a climber neglects what the judge say and go around checking the other boulders during the Olympic qualifications? Based on the rules, it seems very hard for the judge to disqualify that person as he/she is not breaking any rules, beside fair play.

IFSC need to add a paragraph saying that bouldering is an onsight competition, as in Lead, where you are not allowed to see the other climbers trying your upcoming boulders.
 
Teenager Sport Climber of 2018 - Draft  (5) Facebook
1. Janja Garnbret (19)
2. Oriane Bertone (13)
3. Laura Rogora (17)
4. Jakub Konecny (19)
5. Rei Kawamata (15)
6. Moritz Welt (17)
7. Kai Harada (19)
8. Futaba Ito (16)
9. Meichi Narasaki (19)
10. Chaehyeon Seo (14), Sandra Lettner (17), Margo Hayes (19), Loic Zehani (17), Keita Dohi (17), Giorgia Tesio (18), Angie Scarth-Johnson (14), Alex Totkova (13), Ema Seliškar (14), Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13), Filip Schenk (18), Philipp Gaßner (18), Zander Waller (15), Natsuki Tanii (15), Elena Krasovskaia (18), , Brooke Raboutou (17), Sam Avezou (17), Ai Mori (15), Shuta Tanaka (17), Alberto Lopez (16), Katie Malinowski (18), Cameron Hörst (16), Conner Herson (15), Jan Vopat (15), Jakob Kronberger (17), Kintana Iltis (15), Lukas Mayerhofer (18), Clay Gordon (17), Lucka Rakovec (17), Hannah Slaney (19), Vita Lukan (18), Nika Potapova (15) Yannick Flohé (19)
 


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