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Gold Rush 8B FA by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done the FA of Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek meaning that she has now done 23 boulders 8B and harder. In the 8A ranking game she is #1.

"Started on Pay dirt and finished on the Ashima trav. Has a hard sequence to get to the jug (v11/v12), then you have a V10 to do. I tried this a couple years ago and didn't find a way, and thought it would be awkward even if I did.. but this year I finally did the ashima trav with the new master beta, and then decided to see if I could link from Pay dirt. I found a really fun sequence and got psyched, did it my next day at the boulder. I think my method is V13, well see how it turns out in the end. Fun climbing!!"

 
 
Super Finale 9a by Samuel Ometz  Facebook
 

Samuel Ometz has done Super Finale 9a in Rawyl in just eight goes."Ggod route with boulder problems separated by good rests! Good consolation prize after not finishing my spring proj."

 
 
Battle Cat 8c makes Solveig Korherr #1 in the ranking game  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSolveig Korherr has done her second 8c, Battle cat in Frankenjura in just four tries over two days.
Including also Cringer 8b+ second go, two weeks ago, the 20-year-old is the new ranking game #1. (c) Dorothea Karalus

This iconic line in Franken has always been a dream of mine. I was surprised to find that it was so attainable after my first go up it. I guess all the hard hours of training are really paying off. I‘m going to Spain to Rodellar and Norway this summer. I will go to Flatanger and then Lofoten to try some trad climbing for the first time.”

 
 
Selah Schneiter (10) climbs The Nose - 950 meters  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureSelah Schneiter (10) has climbed the iconic 31 pitches The Nose in Yosemite in a five-day push together with her father Mike and Mark Reiger. She led a couple of pitches and cleaned about 80% of the pitches.

The 132 cm tall and 27 kg says, "The hardest part was hiking to the base and hiking down. Big, heavy loads."

She says there wasn’t a most fun part that it was all fun. She loved cleaning pitches, doing lower outs, spending the nights on the wall and checking out the free climbing on pitches like changing corners. Mike, who runs and owns Glenwood Climbing Guides, continues.

"Selah started climbing as soon as she could walk. Even before she could walk she would be crawling and climbing on boulders. I’ve done the Nose in a day a couple times and many other walls on El Cap and elsewhere. My daughter did a lot of training in western Colorado for years including lead climbing, multi pitch, leading multi pitch and doing aid climbs and small practice big walls.

She started climbing on a rope when she was 18 months. She’s always been into it and climbs a to,on our indoor home garage wall and outside with me. As a climbing guide I’ve spent a lot of time climbing with her and our other kids and have tried to teach her best practices so hence, she is incredibly competent and often more competent than other climbers who are much older. She’s pretty dialed with what she’s learned."

 
 
Tierra Negra 9a (+) by Gonzalo Larrocha  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGonzalo Larrocha, who did La Rambla 9a+ in March, has done Chris Tierra Negra 9a (+) in Margalef. In total, the 34 year old who did his first 9a being 30, has done 12 routes 9a and harder.

Interesting to see from his scorecard is that he started climbing being 13 years old. Being 22 he did his first 8a and then he has had a continues progress for 12 straight years almost. The successful strategy seems to be to do several of each grade building a solid foundation of his grade pyramid before starting projecting a new grade. In total, the Spaniard has done more than 1 100 routes 8a and harder.

 
 
Pretty Tall - Woods, Cameroni and Raboutou in Rocklands  Facebook
 

 
 
Manphibian 9a by Jonathan Siegrist  (6) Facebook
 

Jonathan Siegrist has done his 33rd 9a, Manphibian in Mt Charleston. "Strength endurance underclings and squeezing with a full-on slab crux finish!" More info on his Insta.

Including also two 9b's and nine 9a+', the 167 cm tall climber should be in the All Time Top-10 sport climbers. Next up is finishing bolting his big multi-pitch project.

 
 
Spray of Light 8C by James Squire  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJames Squire has done Skadossh 8B+ in just 30 min and Spray of Light 8C in Rocklands. "Amazing boulder. Two sessions this trip and a few days last year. Happy! Video on his Insta with some "Ondra-screaming".

How can you explain your recent peak performance?
The only thing I have done differently on this trip would be investing more time into single hard boulders rather than trying to tick larger amounts of slightly easier boulder problems. This sounds simple but is mentally very difficult when you are in Rocklands and you have a million five star lines to distract you. I tried about four other 8C boulders before deciding to sick with this one, so having more patience I think is what helped most with my recent performance."

 
 
How Ondra choose his climbing shoes  Facebook
 

 
 
Vail Bouldering Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Pure Dreaming 9a by Angy Eiter  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngy Eiter, four times World Champion and 25 WC wins, has done Adam Ondra's Pure Dreaming 9a in Arco. In total, the 154 cm tall has now done four routes 9a and harder including La Planta de Shiva 9b which puts her as #1 also outdoors in the history books. (c) Bernie Ruech

So how do you train nowadays and what is next?
Nowadays I listen what I need and what motivates me, I have no strict plan. This winter I followed strength exercises (push-ups, pull ups, muscle ups, rings) and did bouldering in the gym.

I don‘t have any specific projects, I want to climb nearby my homeplace because of my working tasks I want to want to fullfill at the moment. I guess in autumn I go for a climbing trip with Bernie, but no idea where yet :-)"

On Angy's Insta, Adam Ondra comments, "Mindblowing how you can jump between those distant holds on the top!"

 
 
Ogata wins in Vail but Narasaki gets it overall  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureYoshiyuki Ogata got his first ever World Cup victory which moved him from #11 in the ranking to #3. (c) Eddie Fowke Tomoa Narasaki was second and got the overall victory, ahead of Adam Ondra, although just participating in four out of six.

1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN
3. Jongwon Chon KOR
4. Jan Hojer GER
5. Adam Ondra CZE
6. Sean McColl CAN
Complete results

 
 
Janja wins her eight straight Boulder WC  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret becomes the first boulderer who wins all events during a season. Adding also two victories from last year, she has now won eight straight boulder world cups. (c) Luka Fonda

1. Janja Garnbret SLO
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN
3. Fanny Gibert FRA
4. Miho Nonaka JPN
5. Locy Douady (15) FRA
6. Mao Nakamura JPN
Complete results

 
 
Chon and Gibert win Vail semi  Facebook
 

Five male topped all four boulders in the semi with Jongwon Chon on top only needing seven attempts. Both Tomoa Narasaki and Adam Ondra did make it needing 12 respectively 14 tries. All nine Japanese in the Top-16.

Among the female, Fanny Gibert won ahead of Janja Garnbret who missed one boulder coming back from having done 41 straight WC boulders. In total three Japanese made it to the final. The biggest sensation was that 15-year-old Lucy Douady was #5 in her World Cup debut. Complete results

 
 
Total male Japanese domination - Kruder is out  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJapan set some kind of record during the male qualification in the Vail Boulder World Cup. In Group A, where Yoshiyuki Ogata topped all in six tries, Sean Bailay #5 was the only non-Japanese in the Top-8. In Group B, Adam Ondra won ahead of last year World Champion Kai Harada and Keita Dohi, Youth Olympic Champion. The only one to miss the Top-20 semi was Rei Sugimoto who won the last year in Vail. (c) Eddie Fowke

The biggest sensation was that last year overall winner Jernej Kruder, failed to make the semi again. The Slovenian has won one event in 2019 but in the remaining five his best result was #11 but he probably enjoyed it as always.

Interesting is also that only 57 athletes participated in comparison with 91 in 2018. Speed Champion Bassa Mawem just might be the one increasing his chances the most for Tokyo ending #43. It should also be mentioned that USA, who have struggled in 2019, had four guys Top-15. Complete result The semi starts 17.30 European Time and the Final starts 23.00.

 
 
Five Japanese in the female Top-12 in Vail  Facebook
 

For the first time ever, following the male, the Japanese female dominated the Boulder qualification. Also USA got their best result by having four in the Top-15 and further more Brooke Raboutou was #21 and Ashima Shiraishi #23. Complete results

It should be mentioned that only four of the Top-10 ranked did participate and also that Janja Garnbret, who won one group, was the only Slovenian participating. In the last WC in Munich, Slovenia had five girls in the Top-8!

 
 
Intercooler 8c by Sarah Kampf (38)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureSarah Kamf (born Seeger) has done her seventh 8c Intercooler in Frankenjura. The 38-year-old mother of two is having her best year with three 8c's the last year and this time she only needed five sessions to take it down.

So what is the secret? How can you explain being stronger than ever?
There is no secret. Climbing in general and particularly Frankenjura and the people I'm climbing with keep inspiring and motivating me, I'm a lucky girl enjoying what I do. I think I have reduced my weaknesses (finger strength) by specifically looking for routes or boulders that target them from time to time or by doing some hangboard training when time is short. In general, I have been climbing a lot for the past 10 years which sure had some improving effect. And maybe I am climbing a bit more strategically nowadays and approach projects more focused than in the past. 24 years of climbing experience might have left their marks.

What about trying an 8c+?
Sure I am psyched to try other hard routes, but I don't want to put too much pressure on myself. There are some routes which I am curious to try but projecting is time and energy consuming so the whole setting needs to be compatible with family and work. If I find a route which fulfills these requirements .

 
 
Everything is Karate 8c+/9a by Zangerl and Larcher  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBarbara Zangerl was on her way to Yosemite but a bad weather forecast made her opt for plan B to Pine Creek with her partner Jacopo Larcher. After six days of climbing she could do Ethan Pringle's Everything is Karate 8c+/9a, which also Jacopo did. (c) Benjamin Ditto - The Bishop Area Climbing Coalition (BACC) works to educate visitors about responsible use of our beautiful landscape.

"The original plan was to go to the valley to try the Nose free. But due to the weather we needed a plan B. The climbing here, around Bishop is amazing. Fun routes in every difficulty! I had a hard time on the last long move....got a really small mono edge and from there extended to a bad 3 finger crimp....I had to go dynamic....that felt really insecure and hard to me! More info on her Insta.

Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including one 9a and several 8c+' she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she has done several 8b+' and 8c. Even so, big-walls and multi-pitches should be her best discipline with three FFA's in Yosemite up to 8c. So she is the best female multi-discipline rock climber out there, and in fact, a rather superior #1.

 
 
Live-stream from Vail this Saturday  (4) Facebook
 

The sixth and last Boulder World Cup in 2019 starts on Friday in Vail with the qualification. Among the male, overall it is a battle in between Adam Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki although in theory also Kokoro Fujii could win. If Narasaki wins, Ondra will secure the overall victory being runner-up.

Janja Garnbret has won all five events and she just might be the first in the IFSC history to have won all during one season. In 2018, she just participated in three events out of which she won the last two.

Interesting is that only four out of the Top-10 in the female ranking participate. Among the male, Anze Peharc and Jakob Schubert, who in theory could have won, will not participate as well as Alexey Rubtsov, currently ranked as #3.

The major reason for all these absents is probably that the athletes have given the Olympic qualification a higher priority. The season is very long and they need to rest and train Speed. Shauna Coxey is the one having taken this to the extreme having just participated in two events in 2019.

The Combined overall ranking is based on the two best results in the three disciplines. The ones desperately needing a good result in Vail are; Miho Nonaka, Kyra Condie, Ashima Shiraishi, Brooke Raboutou, Margo Hayes, Alex Megos, Sean Bailay, Mickael Mawem and Sean McColl.

Friday June 7:
Women’s Qualifications - 10am ET
Men’s Qualifications - 3:30pm ET

Saturday June 8:
Semifinals - 11:30am ET (LIVE)
Women’s Finals - 5pm ET (LIVE)
Men’s Finals - 6:45pm ET (LIVE)

 
 
Dreamcatcher 9a by Nicholas Milburn  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicholas Milburn has done Chris Sharmas' Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish. (c) Matty Hong

"This route took me about 10 weeks of work over three seasons. I came really close last year, but ran out of time. I trained hard before returning this year to make sure I would be strong enough to send. The weather was also the best I have ever seen in Squamish. The day I sent was super windy which made a huge difference. Matty taught me some advanced sport climbing strategies and I finally caught the dream. I'm psyched that such an iconic route is my first of the grade."

 
Jon Shen

Floflo Grunewald on OAK
A IC (8a) at Limeri.
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Mike Gabl

Sami in "Les aneaux de
saturne" 7b / Quinson /
France
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Sebastian Maya

El Techo del Puma, Ciud
ad Universitaria, Méxic
o
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+
 
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Albarracín
 
Paolini Yohann

Alpina rocket 8a, La Ma
ladière
 
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Albarracín
 
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
na
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Frisson 8A+ in Font by Oriane Bertone (14)  Facebook
 
Female dream climbing partner  (1) Facebook
 
Male dream climbing partner?  (5) Facebook
 
The world's hardest trad climbs  (21) Facebook
Click to Enlarge Picture99 boulders has published another great article listing 44 trad routes in the world from 8b+ to 8c+. There is also some ethical thoughts and some "grey zone" ascents have been included. But in in order to make the list, "the majority of the difficult climbing is protected by removable gear (placed on lead)."

There are five 8c+' listed with all ascents: (*pre-placed gear)
Blackbeard's Tears - Ethan Pringle
Meltdown - Beth Rodden, Carlo Traversi
Pura Pura - Tom Randall
Recovery Drink - Nico Favresse*, Daniel Jung
Rhapsody - Dave MacLeod*, Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, James Pearson, Jacopo Larcher, Gerome Pouvreau

Jacopo Larcher's recent Tribe was not given a grade but it should be at least 8c+ as he thinks it is his hardest ever. In regards, Rhapsody there are some controversies and also the grade has been questioned. The FA-ionist did place the gear on lead but then he downclimbed it 25 meters to the start. On the actual sent he did not place any gear. It has further more been called an eliminate.

The diagram shows the ones having done most 8b+ and harder with Jacopo Larcher and Sonnie Trotter on top. Noteworthy is that Barbara Zangerl is up there tied #7. Including also Beth Rodden's Meltodown, it is obvious that the best female is almost equal to the male. It just might be that trad climbing is unique when it comes to gender equality of all the thousand sports out there? In the record book, Alex Megos flash of The Path 8b+ R should be mentioned.

Comparing trad grades to sport grades, it is quite obvious that sport grades are at least one grade softer. Almost all of the trad experts have, relatively fast, done harder grades in sport.
 
Japan and Slovenia total domination in Bouldering  (4) Facebook
Japan won the national team ranking for the sixth year in a row. Slovenia, with just two million inhabitants, had their best year ever. The country struggling the most were Italy at #15 with only 156 points.

1. Japan 1 693
2. Slovenia 1 359
3. France 766
4. Austria 591
5. Germany 534
Complete results

Noteworthy is that Japan could participate with ten male in 2019 as they had five guys in the Top-10 ranking in 2018. Currently they have just three but there are another five who can make it with good results in the Tokyo WCH. However, IFSC have reduced the extra-quota so only six male from Japan is allowed to participate.
 
Janja Garnbret sets record in superiority  (8) Facebook
Janja Garnbret set a new IFSC Boulder WC record by winning all six events in 2019. In total she failed to top only four out of the 78 boulders she tried. Her most extraordinary superiority was shown in the semi in Munich by doing all four problems in just eight tries at the same times her 19 opponents did together just manage to get one top and on an average 1.26 zones!

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 500
2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 320
3. Fanny Gibert FRA 308
4. Futaba Ito JPN 206
5. Jessica Pliz AUT 203

6. Petra Klingler SUI 180
7. Lucka Rackovec SLO 163
8. Katja Kadic SLO 161
9. Julia Chanourdie FRA 157
0. Shauna Coxsey GBR/Ievgennia Kazbekova UKR 145
Complete results
 
Male Boulder WC 2019  Facebook
Tomoa Narasaki, who won in 2016 and was runner-up the last two years, is the Boulder World Cup winner in 2019, in spite of just participating in four out of the six events. His worst result was #2. Adam Ondra, who has not done any Boulder WCs sin 2015, was the impressive #2 only five points behind. The biggest step forward was done by 21-year-old Yoshiyuki Ogata who advanced from #13 in 2018 to #3 this season. In total there were 8 guys from Japan in the Top-16.

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 340
2. Adam Ondra CZE 335
3. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 264
4. Jongwon Chon KOR 228
5. Kokoro Fujii JPN 227

6. Jan Hojer GER 223
7. Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 214
8. Anze Peharc SLO 205
9. Jernej Kruder SLO 191
0. Jakob Schubert AUT 184
Complete results
 
ALEON by Fred Nicole and Five Ten  (9) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureNew to Spring 2019 is the ALEON, developed by Fred Nicole together with Five Ten. Fred’s passion for design began at art college with sculpture work, however his transition into shoe design was self taught, saying it was simply a “natural & instinctive process”.

What is the best & worst part of the design process?
I find it all interesting, however the hard part is when people critic a shoe you’re proud of. On the other hand it's great when people are psyched about what you have produced.

If you could go and re-climb any of your problems in the world, in the ALEON to make the problem easier, what would it be?
It would be great to re-climb Amandla (8B+), Slashface (8B) & Terremer (8C) in the ALEON, as they have really small footholds and require a very precise shoe with good heel tension.
 
UIAA presents corrosion locations  (27) Facebook
UIAA has presented a map with known corrosion locations and interestingly almost all spots are crags very close to the sea.

 
Eastern Europe dominate in Youth Color in Imst  Facebook
220 youngsters up to 14 years old participated in the Youth Color Climbing Festival in Imst. Interesting is that Bulgaria was the best country and in general Eastern Europe dominated. Everyone climbed at least six routes and in the qualification the belayers were parents, coaches and friends.

12: Nina Hentschel SUI - Timo Ossig GER
14: Martina Bangeeva BUL - Andrei Rapa Darius ROU
Complete reults
 


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