GO TO GLOBAL SITE   se es us fr za it
de ca au no
at br ru ch
gb pl nl sk
Home | News | Videos | Articles | Gallery | Crags | Gyms | Search - Tick List | Forum | Ranking | Blogs | Contact | New Member
 
 
 
Three 8c+ by Stefano Carnati  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Carnati, who did Biographie 9a+ this autumn, has had eight very productive days doing three 8c+. First the FA of Vortex in Gajum which he has tried for few days during the last four years, see picture. More info on his Insta.

Then he traveled to Spain and did A Muerte in Siurana and La Ley Innata in Margalef. "Nemesis is over!! 3AM alarm clock made its work! Spent several days last year and it drove me crazy. Today sent straight after a warm-up go."

 
 
Stefano Ghisolfi 9b+ and Olympic interview  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn between day #8 and day #30, Stefano Ghisolfi did not see any physical progress on Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef as he kept falling on the same move.

"I just felt a slow progress on sensations and feelings on the route. I improved on the first part to make it perfect. I did visualization when I was home and try to reproduce the feelings. I trained my legs too because in the rest before the hard section I had to push with my left leg to stay in the position. The process has been very complicated and frustrating, during this year I had a lot of emotions, motivation and sometimes I thought to give up, but I never did. "

Stefano won the Italian Speed Championship in 2010 with 7.96 so he has actually not started any Speed training yet. He has deliberately postponed it in order to reduce the months with almost only focusing on indoor training prior to Tokyo 2020.

"My plan was to stay in Spain for a month until end of December, bit I did the route at the second day of the trip, so now I have one more month to train. Now I can focus on Olympics 100%. I will continue with some rock project but closer to home, while I can train boulder and speed. Living in Arco will help my outdoor climbing. But maybe not big projects before the Olympics. During 2019, I will do all Lead WCs and maybe 3 or 4 bouldering and Speed WCs."

 
 
Three 8A+ by Michaela Kiersch  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch has had a great trip to Hueco Tanks where she quickly did three 8A+; Rumble in the jungle, Tequila Sunrise and Phantom Limb (c) Brandon Fox - The Foxes Photography In the Combined ranking game, Michaela is #1 among the female and #13 among the male.

"I went into this trip with no objectives other than to have fun and enjoy my climbing. The weather has been perfect and I’ve been with amazing friends. Couldn’t have been a better trip! Usually I do have plans, but this trip was more for my mental health and enjoyment than for sending super hard projects. My plan for the winter is to train, get stronger, and enjoy the holidays with my family. 2019 is still open ended for me, I really need to start thinking of some good new year resolutions."

 
 
Hypothèse assis 8C+ FA by Charles Albert barefoot  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCharles Albert, the famous Font barefoot boulderer, has made the FA of yet another 8C+, Hypothèse assis. It adds two moves to the 7C+ stand start. "It’s just another hard boulder, it’s not very beautiful and it’s chipped. I did it because it was dry. It took me three quick sessions and a long one. I don’t think it’s easier or harder with shoes the next project is another hard boulder.”

Charles climbs barefoot and he has established and repeated several 8C's and done the Fa of La Revolutionnaire 8C+. The pic by Neil Hart is from an 8B+ in Font.

 
 
9a+/b FA by Seb Bouin  Facebook
 

 
 
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefano Ghisolfi, #2 in the Lead World Cup the last two years, reports on his Insta that he has repeated Alex Megos Perfecto Mundo 9b+ in Margalef which originally Chris Sharma bolted. (c) Javi Pec

"I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal..."

 
 
Terre de sienne 8B by Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus has done Fred Nicole's Terre de Sienne 8B in Hueco Tanks. "hard dead point.. was trying the bump method for the first couple days... then started trying to go straight up to it and did it that sesh, didn't split any tips!!"

Originally it was given 8C, but then Dave Graham came and called it 8B/+. Some continued to grade it 8B+ but now it seems the consensus is 8B. Isabelle, who often gives personal downgrades, has recorded 16 8B's and two 8B+, making her tick list one of the most impressive by a female. In the 8A ranking game, Isabelle is #1.

 
 
Southern Smoke 8c+ by Margo Hayes  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes reports on her Insta that she one month ago did Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. During the same trip the 20 year old did Golden Ticket 8c+ and probably some more great routes. (c) Jan Novak

I had a wonderful time visiting The Red for the first time in a while! I met up with friends from France and was able to spend some time climbing with my dad. He’s always my favorite partner. I wanted to try a some classics and some routes that looked intriguing to me. I climbed the Golden Ticket and Southern Smoke in 5 tries each.”

Including the two 9a+ classics from last year as well as a 9a and other 8c+', Margo must be a contender for having the most impressive ticklist in the world. The only two girls that challenges her are Angy Eiter and Anak Verhoeven.

 
 
9a FA by Thomas Dauser in Ulassai  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas Dauser has done his third 9a through the FA of Il gusto della liberta in Ulassai. (c) Klaas Willems

"So happy!! It was a long way to the top of this dream line. In total, split over two stays, I spent around 10 days working on it, checking out the moves, making link-ups, and finally sending it in perfect evening conditions. I did my first 8c now already 5 years ago and then my first 9a one year ago. My main focus is on climbing outdoors, a lot in Frankenjura. But the last few years I did more specific training as well.

 
 
Fabelita 8c by Molly Thompson Smith  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMolly Thompson Smith, #7 in the Lead WC 2017 and #11 in the World Championship, has been on a climbing trip in Spain together with Jan Hojer. In Siurana she did Kale Borraka 8b+ and in Santa Linya she did Fabelita 8c. Jan's best was Open Your Mind 8c+ in Santa Linya.

So how come so few comps this year and what is the 2019 and Olympic plan?
I ruptured 3 pulleys in my ring finger at the end of Dec last year and had to have surgery in the New Year. Took me a while to get back to climbing, and especially at a decent level so wasn't able to do any comps until World Champs. Next year I plan to do all the lead WCs and some bouldering ones.

I'll try for the Olympics, hopefully I can enter all the events I need to next year but we don't know what the selection criteria is yet and I've got a lot of catching up to do anyways!

 
 
El Bon Combat 9a+ (9b/+) by Jakob Schubert  (18) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJakob Schubert reports on Insta that he has done the second ascent of Chris Sharma's El Bon Combat in Cova de l'ocell giving it a personal grade of hard 9a+.

"I know it's easy to not think about it and just take the grade of the first ascensionist which in this case is 9b/+ but I feel the responsibility to have more thoughts about it. For me it felt easier from the first day I tried it and I would guess it is a hard 9a+. Curious what others will think."

Jakob has been one of the leading competition climbers in the World the last ten years and this year he was the Lead as well as the Combined World Champion, beside winning the Lead World Cup. The 27 year old Austrian has previuosly done three 9b's, seven 9a+' and two 8C boulders.

El Bon Combat is located just 40 min oustide Barcelona and it was bolted by Martí Iglesias Galobart. It is 25 meters and the really spectacular route is made up by a mixture of sand stone and conglomerate. The difficulty is based on several 8A Boulder problems connected with poor rests. (c) Javi Pec

 
 
Honnold's 1 000 m solo from the filming crew perspective  Facebook
 

 
 
Amazing video of Ondra high up on The Salathe Wall  (12) Facebook
 

Adam Ondra during the end of his onsight attempt of The Salathe Wall in Yosemite, where he fell on an 8a+ trad pitch.

 
 
Pure Imagination 8c+ by Matilda Söderlund  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatilda Söderlund reports on Insta that she has done Pure Imaginaation 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Andy Wickstrom

In 2012, Matilda was #6 in the World Championship and later she focused on getting a Master degree in Business Administration. This year she is back with four routes 8c and harder.

So, so happy that I managed to keep it together and send it on the very last day! I was very close about a week earlier and then it got super cold (too cold for me to be able to climb on the crimps of Pure Imagination haha). Then we got one day with perfect conditions and I was able to send it I learnt a lot and enjoyed the process of projecting and all of the mental challenges & mind games that it includes.

Pure Imagination is an amazing line (bolted by Kenny Baker), a lot of nice crimps and fun sequences. Can’t wait to come back to the Red for more climbing!”

 
 
Gancho perfecto 9a (+) by Felipe Camargo  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo, who previously has done one 9a+ and one 8C, has repeated Chris Sharma's 9a Gancho Perfecto in Margalef. Although it was put up ten years ago it only has had five repeats, out of which everyone calling it hard. The Brazilian with 66 000 followers on Insta suggests an upgrade to 9a+. (c) Anva Creative

"I tried it for basically 2 months now! But the second month, the end of the route was totally wet! So I just trained in the gym here at Sharma climbing and climbed a lot on the bottom! Now it dried and i did it :) I have two weeks left in Spain and I think I will focus on Bon Combat. I dunno if I can do it but I want to get close and comeback to it. It is amazing."

 
 
Six 8c+ in RRG by Hannes Puman  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHannes Puman, #4 in the Euro Championship in 2017, has had an amazing trip to Red River Gorge doing six 8c+'. On the picture by Kristoffer Klev he is doing Pure Imagination but the best one was Golden Ticket.

Wow! So how do you like RRG and which was the best route and what about going for a 9a?
I like the Red, it's a nice place with a lot of cool routes. The general style is quite basic and the grades are often soft. My favorite route that I have climbed is The tube, the line is beautiful, the holds are nice and it climbs very well. When I did the madness cave in one day I onsighted two 8b+ but I haven't done any harder onsights than that.

I think there are two 9a's here but both of them look bad so I don't want to try them. In total i have done over 40 routes 8a and harder (guidebook grades). Grades and climbing 9a are not so important for me. Although it would have been awesome to do Biographie and Action Directe.

 
 
Off the wagon low 8C+ by Shawn Raboutou  (15) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureOff the Wagon in Valle Bavona is an iconic boulder due to the one meter cross over move where you face outwards. It was put up bu Nalle Hukkataival as an 8C but later everyone who has praised it calls it 8B+, video. Now Giuliano Cameroni reports on Insta that Shawn Raboutou has done the low start, 8C+.

Just some days ago, Shawn did Foundations Edge 8C and prior to that he made the FA of L’Oeuvre in Bouddha crag saying it is either 8c+ or 9a. In retro perspective being in the best shape of his life it seems and also always being modest with grading, it just might be a very hard 9a :)

 
 
Golden Ticket 8c+ by Melissa Le Nevé  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMelissa Le Nevé, one of the leading competition boulderers in between 2010 and 2016 who also have done 8B+, has done her fourth 8c+, Golden Ticket in Red River Gorge.

On her Insta, "I think I haven’t been happier yet to climb a line! Back in 2012, I was very impressed by the line and even more when I saw @adam.ondra onsighting it (which was one of my most inspiring experience in climbing)."

Back then it was considered 9a but Ondra he actually down graded it after his onsight. Melissa used a bathang on her send and Jan Novak got it as she practiced it.

 
 
Three 8c+'s in RRG by Andrew Nimmer  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAndrew Nimmer came to Red River Gorge wit one 8c and one 8c+ as personal best. One week later he leaves with three new 8c+'; Southern Smoke, Pure Imagination and Golden Ticket. (c) Matty Hong, from last year when Andrew did Lucifer 8c+.

 
 
Evolution 8c+ by Ben Moon (52)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 1990, Ben Moon made the FA of Hubble at Ravens Tor as the world's first 8c+. Today many think it should be upgraded to 9a. Three years ago he repeated Rainshadow 9a and now he once again show the uniqueness in climbing in regards age and performance by doing Evolution 8c+ at Ravens Tor. "It’s a great end to the year for me which has been one of the best of the past 35 years climbing." (c) Moon Climbing

"To be honest I didn’t really do anything different in my training. Just a lot of indoor bouldering and quite a bit of low intensity, high volume climbing (aero cap). I also climbed a lot outside this year. We had amazing weather for most of the year. In May and June I was mainly trying Northern Lights and came pretty close, definitely the best year yet on that route and then easier routes in the Peak District during the summer. I did a route called Hajj at Ravens Tor about 3 weeks ago and although it only gets 8c, several people who have climbed this route and another of the Mecca extensions called Kaaba (8c+) say it’s harder. Hajj is one of the Mecca extensions so you do Mecca to a good rest then you do a route 8b which probably has a Font 7c boulder on it. Really crimpy like most routes at Ravens Tor. I felt fit and strong after doing this route which was good preparation for Evolution.

The crux of Evolution is the start which is probably a 3 move Font 8a and then you are straight into a route 8b with no rests. The route is a classic Tor route, sustained bouldering on vicious crimps and a real test of finger strength. I was at the Tor the other day when Pete Dawson did it which was great to see. We both agree that there probably isn’t a full grade difference between Evolution and Rainshadow. Maybe Evolution is hard 8c+ and Rainshadow easy 9a. I think Northern Lights is in a different league grade wise to all these other routes and I reckon one day will be considered 9a+. Time will tell but only 3 ascents in 18 years…."

 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
 
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
nik
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
na
 
Calvin Wagner

Green Lantern (Low) 7b+
, HP 40
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Bram Honorez

el varano, 7C+ Albarra
cin
 
Jon Shen

Flofo Grunewald on Fata
Morgana (8a).
 
Bram Honorez

souvenir 8A/+ Chironic
o
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Lando Peters

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Albarracín
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Andrew conroy

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Living Legend Neil Gresham  Facebook
 
Adam Ondra America roadtrip Vlog #7  Facebook
 
Female Best Bouldering Ticklist  (1) Facebook
Here is a draft of which female have the most impressive bouldering tick list. Please comment to add names or change the ranking.

1. Alex Puccio USA
2. Ashima Shiraishi USA
3. Isabelle Faus USA
4. Anna Stöhr AUT
5. Karoline Sinnhuber AUT

6. Oriane Bertone FRA
7. Megan Mascarenas USA
8. Shauna Coxsey GBR
9. Alizee Dufraisse FRA
0. Nina Williams USA
Mile Heyden GER
 
Female most impressive sport climbing tick list  (9) Facebook
Here is a draft of which female have the most impressive sport climbing tick list. Please comment to add names or change the ranking.

1. Margo Hayes USA
2. Angy Eiter AUT
3. Anak Verhoeven BEL
4. Josune Bereziartu ESP
5. Julia Chanourdie FRA

6. Ashima Shiraishi USA
7. Allizée Dufraisse FRA
8. Charlotte Durif FRA
9. Janja Garnbret SLO
0. Michaela Kiersch USA, Laura Rogora ITA, Mar Alvararez, Janja Garnbret, Muriel Sarkany, Barbara Zangerl, Plorence Pinet, Katherine Choong
 
Practical breathing tips  (1) Facebook
There are several ways on how breathing can improve your climbing and here are some examples. You should try it out or even take some Yoga breathing lessons in order to best use your breathing while climbing.

1. Breath before you set of = Increase focus and concentration
2. Less nervous by thinking of how you breath
3. Get more alert/stronger by hyper ventilation (fast breathing)
4. Improved resting by slow, long and deep breathing
5. A focus on breathing will make you more relaxed while climbing

Just close your eyes and focus on breathing and notice what happens in your body and soul and you are half way there.
 
Leonidio third most popular in 2018  (7) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDuring the last 12 months, 7 298 ascents have been recorded in Leonido making it the third most zlagged in the world after Frankenjura and Kalymnos. Actually, 50 % of the total recorded ascents in Leonidio have beed added just the last year. Kind of remarkable that it is more popular than Rodellar, Arco and Railay Beach together. The second most trendy crag to visit is Kyparissi like 1.5 hour south of Leonidio.

The good news is that both these crags situated like 3 hours south of Athens are climbable also during the winter. Here you can buy the guide-book which also comes in an App.
 
Sharma's routes are the greatest  (12) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureLooking in the 8a database trying to identify who has made the FAs of the most popular and highest ranked hard core routes, Chris Sharma sticks out.

2.8 Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana
2.2 Mind Control 8c (8c+) in Oliana
2.1 Era Vella 9a (8c+) in Margalef
2.0 Biographie 9a+ in Céüse

In fact, almost all Chris hardest routes have later been hailed and recommended. Here are some examples of some with few repeats;
First round first minute 9b, El Bon Combat 9a+ (9b/+), Fight or Flight 9b, Es Pontas 9b . (c) Chris Insta with 455 000 followers.
 
Larcher and Zangerl doing 1 300 m 8a+ on Eiger's north face  Facebook
 
Lack of hardcore onsights and flashes  (8) Facebook
During the last years, we have seen a great progress when it comes to redpoint grades for both male, female, youngsters and oldies. Strangely enough, when it comes to route onsights it seems the level is decreasing beside Adam Ondra. Nowadays, it is very seldom we hear about 8c's respectively 8a+' being onsighted by male and female. In comparison, Ondra has done 84 onsights 8c and harder.

In bouldering, we saw some progress up to 8B and even 8B+ some years ago but last year, almost none did flash an 8B. Kind of strange as there exist videos of most of the hard 8B out there and also that there are many more to choose from compared to five years ago. Among the male, James Webb sticks out with 19 8B boulders flash.

When the 8a scorecard was set up in 2000, we choose to award onsights very high in order to motivate more onsights. Maybe it is time to increase the bonus and also report more high class onsight? Remember that it might not be a coincidence that Adam Ondra had a focus on onsights being a teenager. In general, many coaches and trainers say that it is better to build a wide onsight pyramid instead of just redpointing a personal best.
 
Growth plate fractures at risk for the advanced kids  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureOver the years, doctor and coaches have warned for an increased number of growth plate fractures and 8a has often informed about the problem. Here is a Eric Hörst article from 2017 and here is one by Volker and Isabelle Schöffl from this spring.

Sadly and very unfortunate we have just lately heard many more stories preventing some advanced kids to stop climbing. The fracture often appears during the year of the highest growth velocity for the youngsters focusing to much on power in the gym. It seems most coaches are aware of the problem but this seems not to be the case for the parents and kids.

Two coaches have recently reached out to 8a asking us to write another warning article as they see an increase risk for more fractures that actually could mean the kids are forced to totally stop climbing.

Campus board and repeativey working on the same bouldering moves are the worst thing. In fact, all type of intensive finger training should be avoided during the year when the youngster grow the most. Remember that Adam Ondra being a teenager his focus was onsight, technic and endurance.
 


RSS News | More News & Numbers ->