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Jacopo Larcher does the world's hardest trad?  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJacopo Larcher, who three years ago did La Rambla 9a+, has done his hardest route ever. "I have never invested so much time in a route before. Anyway, I decided not to grade it ;)"

The Italian found it six years ago and the last year the 25 meter line in Cadarese, Italy, has been his big focus. He says that he has worked on it during possibly 50 sessions or more. In regards placing the gear, Jacopo says it is not so hard to place. "It just makes it more pumpy between the two hard sections." (c) Paolo Sartoro Photo

It is a well known fact that trad grades are harder than sport grades. One reason for this is that in the beginning of the sport era, you had to place the quick draws as you were climbing as you had to place the trad gear. Later, the sport ethics changed towards pre-placed quick draws. Further more, it seems that at the same time we have seen grade inflation for sport routes there has been deflation for trad. Currently there exist some four 8c+ trad routes meaning that there possibly should be a two grades gap comparing it to sport routes.

Understanding that the gear placement did not have so much impact on the difficulty for Larcher, it just might have been 9a+ or 9b with bolts. So what do you think? Did Jacopo do the first 9a trad route in the world?

 
 
Papichulo 9a+ by Margo Hayes  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMargo Hayes reports on Insta that she Papichulo 9a+ in Oliana. Including her two previous 9a+', La Rambla and Biographie, the 21 year old is a contendor for having the best ever female tick list. (c) Jan Novak.

Last year she was #10 in the World Championship. In two weeks, she will change the 45 m wall in Oliana to compete in the bouldering WC in Meiringen, hopefully to get a good start on her Olympic quest.

 
 
Pata Ledovce 8C by Martin Stráník  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMartin Stráník, #2 in the World Champion in 2007, has made the first repeat of Adam Ondra’s Pata Ledovce 8C in Holstejn. In the 8a ranking game the 29 year old Czech is #3. Video

"4 days this year, I have never thought that these moves are possible but it has changed this year, great climbing including power, finger strenght and technique. First repeat of some Adam´s 8C in CZ."

In two weeks time, Martin will compete in Meiringen where he got the silver in 2016. (c) Jakub Konečný

My ambition is to compete on 'Europe' world cups in lead and bouldering and in Tokyo (World Championship). I am also trying to learn speed, but not too much as I could cause I am still working full time (meteorologist).

 
 
Valhalla 9a+ possibly the hardest MP in the world  (9) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFirst he was assisted by his brother for two months drilling and hammering in 250 bolts. On the second trip, which lasted five months, his father was mainly his partner. Waking up at 06.00 for breakfast then walking 1.5 hour before starting climbing or jumaring to the roof.

"It was the hardest process of my life to be totally focus on this project for 2 + 5 months. I feel really happy to finish this crazy project. I did not know if it was possible to climb free. I was worried about to find some impossible points for climbing.

Every two weeks I had to go to Guiyang to train indoors to keep my power. It was also hard to not talk to people for a long time because the Chines in general do not talk English."


Edu did his first 9a being 17 years old and he has previously done three 9a+ and Chilam Balam 9a+/b. With 14 pitches including one 9a+ and two 8c+', Valhalla is a contender for being the hardest graded multi-pitch in the world. The FA took nine hours. Some days ago, he fell on pitch 12 after a foot hold broke. More info and pictures on his Insta (c) David Lopez Campe

 
 
Valhalla 9a+ FA by Edu Marin - 304 m roof!  (1) Facebook
 

Edu Marin, who in 2006 won the World Cup in Chamonix, has done the FA of Valhalla 9a+ in Getu which has 14 pitches and overhangs by 304 meter. More info to come.

 
 
Squoze 8C by Taylor McNeill  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTaylor McNeill has done his third 8C, Squoze in Red Rocks. Video on his Insta

"Couldn’t do any of the 3 hard moves for my first two days on it. Had a breakthrough on day 3, but still had some figures to do. Day 4 I sorted it out and somehow got it done Hardest I’ve ever climbed in shorts. Dope one from Jwebb. Hard to say on the grade. It’s the fastest I’ve ever done a boulder this hard but I’m also feeling really fit."

 
 
8c again by Anna Stöhr  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAnna Stöhr, possibly the best ever female competition boulderer, could not participate in the WCH last year due to a back injury. Last month she reported on Insta that she for the first time did not think of her back and did her hardest route Riflessi 8c. Yesterday, the bouldering queen did one more long endurance, Cinque Uve in Arco. (c) Michele Bort

Anna has won both the World and the European Championship twice. Four years she has won the Boulder World Cup overall and in total the Austrian has won 22 WCs. In 2010, she became the second women to do an 8B, Riverbed.

 
 
Two 8B+' by Matt Fultz in a day  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has had a great day in RMNP, having done two 8B+' in a day. In total the 27 year old has done 21 boulders 8B+ and as can be seen on his scorecard, he has been on a ten year almost steady progress. More info on his Insta.

How have you been able to raise your level in 2019?
The US Bouldering competition ended a couple months ago, so I have been 100% climbing outside or training on the hangboard/Tensionboard/ Moonboard. Just improving finger strength and power, and not worrying about long days in the gym doing comp-style problems. But most importantly, I’ve been psyched!

 
 
Life Of Villains 9a (+) by Jonathan Siegrist  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist has done the second repeat of Joe Kinder's Life Of Villains in Hurricave giving it a personal 9a grade. "It was a long and ferocious winter but through fiery stubbornness and many wet climbing days something cool finally."

In total, the 33 year old has done 40 routes 9a to 9b and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Chris Weidner

 
 
Sid Lives 9a by Enrico Lovato  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEnrico Lovato jumps 8c+ and does his first 9a, Sid Lives in Arco. (c) Lorenzo Rossato

"Two weeks ago I was advised by a friend of mine to try a short bouldery 9a in Nago crag, near Arco. The route consist of a 8b Boulder into an another 7b Boulder without any rest. In the first session I figured it out all the moves and after the 2nd session I began to fall high. In the 6th session I won the mental battle against this intense route. The strange thing is that I’ve never done an 8c+ route, I usually dislike long and endurance routes, and considering I love bouldering, I found this route very similar to my climbing style, so I didn’t care about the grade. I think maximal force trainings, using moonboard and hangboard, helped me a lot to achieve the goal."

 
 
La Rambla 9a+ by Gonzalo Larrocha  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGonzalo Larrocha has done his second 9a+, La Rambla in Siurana. More info to come. (c) Javi Pec

 
 
La Révolutionnaire 8C+ by Ryohei Kameyama  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama, who just recently did the first repeat of Charles Albert's No kpote only 9A (8C+) in Fontainebleau has done the equivalent by doing La Révolutionnaire 8C+. It only took him four sessions. (c) Ryosuke Hibino

"This boulder has small crimps and slopers, so I struggled to maintain my endurance. Next project I think is "Trip hop" (8C). I couldn't climb this boulder my last bleau trip."

How do you train?
I feel my training key is campus board training. I often do ladder training. ladder training is simple. climb up and down, but I perform it as fast as possible and long time. It train endurance and agility, finger strength.

 
 
Two 9a's by Gabriele Gorobey in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
 

Gabriele Gorobey reports on Facebook that he has had some amazing days in Osp/Misja Pec having done his two very first 9a'; Halupca 1979 and Sanjski par extension. The multi-discipline climber, is known for establishing everything from hard core boulders to big walls.

 
 
Killer Z 8c by Chris Weidner (44)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureChris Weidner has done his second 8c, Killer Z in Hurricave which is a horizontal extension to an 8b. He started climbing in 1988 and did his first 8c being 40 years old. They key is hard training. (c) Lindsey Tjian

"It's an endurance route that, for me, required as much mental stamina as physical. There are a number of decent rests, but at each one I found it challenging to maintain tension with only the muscles required to stay on and to relax everything else. I used to run marathons and when I lowered from the redpoint, which took about 25 minutes, I felt like I had just crossed the finish line.

My whole life I've valued outdoor climbing much much more than indoor climbing and training. I only climbed in the gym when it was impossible to climb outside. I've changed my way of thinking, and am now putting a lot of time and energy into training. Turns out it works :)

This winter I committed to strength training for a few months. I did a repeaters cycle on the fingerboard then max hangs once or twice a week. More importantly for the Hurricave, which is often horizontal climbing, I trained core and upper body strength. For the first time since I was in high school I lifted weights. I gained a few pounds of muscle (I hope it's muscle!) but my strength to weight ratio feels higher than ever."

 
 
Off the Wagon 8B+ by Lasse von Freier (16)  Facebook
 

Lasse von Freier has done his first 8B+, Off the Wagon in Valle bavona. " Finally my hard training this winter payed off! A few days ago I repeated the classic„Off the Wagon” (8B+) in my second session. Skipping the 8B grade felt kind of unexpected."

 
 
8C by Nico Pelorson with one shoe  (6) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNicolas Pelorson, who previoulsy has done eight 8B+', has done his second 8C Délir onririque assis in Rocher Saint German. (Nico’s first was The Big Island in Font this December.) FA Charles Albert did climb barefoot, Nico used one climbing shoe and it took him some 20 sessions. "It's not so many harder with two shoes I think. Video

 
 
Coup de Grace 9a by Marco Zanone  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMarco Zanone, who has done three 8c+' in 2019, has done his first 9a, Dave Graham's Coup de Grace in Ticino. (c) Matteo Pavana

"I started trying this route back in 2016, I was recovering from a bad injury to my middle finger and I was definitely not strong enough for even climbing all the single move, but I knew that I was investing well my time because maybe in the future I would have been able to climb it.

Then in Autumn 2017 I came back with my brother Andrea with a different mindset, the conditions were prime and even if I was attending a Film School in Milan with limited time for climbing, my shape was quite good.
My progressions on the route was steady and after few days I was able to climbed the route from the second bolt to the top, but adding the 8A boulder problem at the start was another story.

I was feeling very close, cause I fall few time at the end of the roof, but then the winter came and I had to give up. 2018 was a bummer, the route was always wet I've never been able to give a proper go from the bottom. This year the spring arrived earlier than ever and after climbing A Muerte in Spain last month I felt ready to come back there. On the second day of attempts I eventually found my self topping out this outstanding boulder of granite, marking my first 9a.

My brother Andrea climbed this route back in autumn 2017; I was there belaying him on the send go and since then I've never stopped dreaming to feel all the emotions he felt during that day."

 
 
Agresija II 8b+ by Ema Seliškar (14)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureEma Seliškar has done her fourth 8b+ the last six months, Agresija II in Kotecnik. In the Age & Gender bonus ranking the 14 year old Slovenian is #13. Last year she was between #9 and 12 in all four European Cups she entered. (c) Lucija Tarkuš

"Last year I was really nervous on comps, so I couldn't show my best and because of that I decided that I was not ready to compete in the Worlds yet. I am really looking forward and training hard to participate in the Youth Worlds this year in Arco. Nowdays I train 5 times in a week for 3-4 hours a day."

 
 
Climbing ethics based on a traffic light system  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge Picture8a first presented climbing ethics in 2003. We used a traffic light visualization in order to say that there is no absolute strict rules. However, when it comes to "world records" we think you should not move towards getting a "yellow card". Do you agree with the presented ethics?

"In sport climbing, compared to most other sports, there are few written rules or use of referees. Instead, the climbing community creates and circulates their own Practice & Ethics. Beginners are sometimes struggling to understand what is "normal" behavior and what's allowed and what's not. Over time, the general procedure has been modified and in different subcultures different ethics apply."

 
 
Who is Adam Ondra - Road to Tokyo #4  Facebook
 

 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Albarracín
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone Wow Prow
"Death camp into stomp
omp blues" 8a+ flash
 
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+
 
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
na
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Mike Gabl

Sami in "Les aneaux de
saturne" 7b / Quinson /
France
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
 
Miska Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Best Climbing Shoes - 2019?  Facebook
For the fifth year in a row...

 
Adam Ondra Road to Tokyo #5  Facebook
 
Kruder's up-side-down beta  Facebook
The Slovenian team had a comp simulation on Boulderwelt München and Kruder did go up-side-down!

 
222 participants in Meiringen 5-6/4  (13) Facebook
Last year there were 208 participants in Meiringen and this year there are 222 in the Starting List. Each country are allowed to participate with five male and five female plus the Top-10 in the world ranking, which means Japan will participate with ten males.

In the qualification, it is the highest ranked who start first. Among the ones, who did not get Top-30 in any World Cup or WCH, the starting order is done by random. In practice, this mean that Stefano Ghisolfi could start last having to fight both worse friction and higher temperature in comparison to the guys going out first. Noteworthy is that Gabri Moroni, who won one event last year, will not compete for Italy as they have made in mandatory to go for all three disciplines, in order to get support.

In the schedule, it says that the isolation will close 08.00 for the male and that the female will be finished by 22.00. Based on the large number of participants, they possibly will have to extend it. Ghisolfi just might have to spend 6 hours in isolation.
 
Raboutou and Cameroni in Valais  Facebook
 
38 % (3 000 routes) access ban in Grampians - Petition  (3) Facebook
Save Grampians Climbing: "It is with shock and confusion that Australia’s climbing community has received news from Parks Victoria about substantial access bans to over 3,000 climbs (38% of total climbs) in the Grampians National Park. Sign a Petition - Stop Climbing From Being Banned in the Grampians.
 
14th Plenary Assembly in Tokyo: Olympics, Gender and Para  Facebook
The 14th IFSC Plenary Assembly took place this week in Tokyo and Olympics, Gender equality and Para climbing were on the agenda.

"The proposal to add a female athlete representative to the IFSC Executive Board was approved during the IFSC Plenary Assembly on Saturday. The representative will be elected at the upcoming IFSC World Championships in Hachioji in August, alongside other members of the Athletes’ Commission. A new career path is also being put into place to include more women on the routesetting and officiating teams for IFSC events."

It was decided that the World Championship in 2021 will take place in Moscow. Further more, Vertical-Life did a presentation in regards the new results system they are developing. "The workshop concluded with a presentation from Matthias Polig, CEO of Vertical-Life. Contracted to develop a new membership database and competition result software, the company provides a range of digital tools to improve climbing development. Matthias’ presentation gave attendees a view of the digital future of our sport."
 
New competition stars 2019  Facebook
It is less then a month before the World Cup season will start. Here are some names that might be the new starts in 2019.

Vadim Timonov, Yannick Flohe, Sam Avezou, Natsumi Hirano, Luka Potocar, Naile Meignan, Laura Lammer. Any more names you think can evolve to become a star 2019 on the senior circuit.
 
Climb and develop more locally - Eco friendly crags  (12) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureProtect our winters is a new platform where climbers can talk about climate change. 8a also want to encourage climbers to climb and develop more locally.

Rock climbing is one of the best sports when it comes to having less impact on the climate. We play in the nature and limited equipment are needed. The carbon footprint we create is almost solely related to how we transport our self to the crags. The best way a climber can reduce their impact on the climate change is actually to climb and develop more locally, especially on the crags that can be reached by train or by bike.

Eco friendly crags should be promoted locally but also for climbers planning their next trip in order to create minimal carbon footprint. Göteborg in Sweden has some 1 000 climbs that can be reached within 10 min train from the city center and then 10 min walk, alternatively 30 min with a bike. Please share recommendations for other Eco friendly areas and crags.
 
Alex Puccio FA of Mammoth Rub 8A+  Facebook
 


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