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Poison the Well 8C+ FA by Giuliano Cameroni  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureGiuliano Cameroni, who previously has done seven 8C's, has sent his first 8C+ by the FA of Poison the Well in Brione. It starts with a four move 7C intro followed by two crux moves around 8C before an easier top out. In total, the Swiss needed eight days for taking it down. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old Swiss is #3 after Woods and Webb.

"It’s been a know project for more than ten years now, it’s the logical direct version to the classic Pamplemousse (8A). It took me 8 days during a month and a half. The key was resting the specific muscles and waiting for the good conditions. Since you have to be super accurate, you also need a bit of luck to stick the crux hold perfectly. But the stronger you are and the easier it is to be precise, so after 8 days everything felt a little better."

 
 
14 8A to 8B+ last month by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt, #4 in the Combined ranking, has had a super productive last month doing 14 boulders 8A to 8B+. Last year he also had a nice pyramid in routes starting with two 9a's. (c) Lars Decker - Kalokagathia 8B.

How do you have time for all these sends and what about the 2019 plan and ambition?
I am living in the middle of Frankenjura. I'm taking my time after school and at the weekends. As long as the weather is good I never go training indoors so I can go bouldering outdoors all the time.

Maybe some traveling around Europe and seeing different places. Of course also trying some hard routes/boulders as well as some FAs. Routes and boulders, I think I will continue to do both equally so I won't get out of shape in any of them.

What about trying to project down 8C and 9a+' instead of scooping around in easier terrain?
I have no explicit focus. Just climbing without expectations.

 
 
Odyn's crack 9a+ by Edu Marin in China  (3) Facebook
 

Edu Main comes with great news on Insta. "A process of four months for climb in free all the pitch’s of Valhalla. To be honest I've been tempted to give up sometimes. Endurance, discipline, perseverance and lots of motivation to release every single pitch!
I've build a sentence that I repeat myself every day when putting on my climbing shoes: "limits are thoughts feeding on our fear of failing". I know Valhalla is madness and that it became my biggest obsession."

 
 
Piotr Schab towards the top with 3 rest days a week  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PicturePiotr Schab did Era Vella 8c+ (9a) when he was 16 years old and his first 9a+, Papichulo when he was 19 years old. In 2018, he did four 9a+' and last week he did one more, La Rambla. (c) Pablo Benedito

"The biggest goal of the year is to climb a 9b. I’d love to go back to Fight or Flight. Now it’s time to train again and the plan is to make a month long Catalan trip again in April. Hopefully I’ll be ready to try hard then and the conditions will make the efforts possible. If not I’ll switch again to my favorite style, onsighting and quick redpoints. There are still a lot of routes in a 9a/+ range that are waiting to be climbed. 8c+ onsight is a second big challenge that I look forward to achieve this year.

So please tell us something about training?
This winter I used to do 7 sessions in 4 days a week (3 gym training's included). 21 hours a week, super intense. Now it’ll be different - less volume, more intensity so I hope to take a step further.

Do you really mean three rest days a week?
Yes - Neither climbing nor gym 3 days a week. While you’re doing Raw power sessions in a gym I think it’s more efficient. I’m quite satisfied with the results - in 14 days in Spain I could climb hard 2 days in a row followed by one rest day and it does not happen that often for me.

Piotr finished off his Catalan trip by quickly doing 20 años después 9a and Sin acido clorhidrico 8c+. "They are both are pretty manufactured but the moves and lines create a nice challenge."

 
 
8c+/9a by Iker Pou  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIker Pou reports on Instagram that has repeated Xavi González' route Santaropa 8c+/9a in Majorca. ©Pedro Bover

"Taking advantage of spring temperatures and good conditions, I get to get "SANTAROPA" 8c + / 9a in #Mallorca. First repetition, after the strong climber from Mallorca Xavi González."

 
 
Adam Ondra: Road to Tokyo #1  Facebook
 

 
 
Jimmy Webb portrait projecting down Dreamcatcher 9a  Facebook
 

 
 
Michaela Kiersch wins in Hueco Rock Rodeo with 5 8A and >  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMichaela Kiersch, #1 in the Lead ranking game, won the Hueco Rock Rodeo by doing five boulders 8A and harder during one day. Highlights were two 8A+'; Barefoot on Sacred Ground and Tequila Sunrise. Once they are logged, she will advance to #5 in the Boulder ranking game. Merrickales

1. Michaela Kirsch 6 870 - Keenan Takahashi 7 290
2. Alex Puccio 6 630 - Sam Davis 7 050
3. Paige Claasen 5 910 - Thilo Schröter 6 990
Complete results

 
 
Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+ by Tina Johnsen Hafsaas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Johnsen Hafsaas continues to deliver in Hueco Tanks and five days ago she did the classic Barefoot on Sacred Ground 8A+. Yesterday, during the Hueco Rock Rodeo, she did Dark Ages 8A. In the Combined ranking, the Norweigian is #3. Thilo Schröter

The winners of Hueco Rock Rodeo 2019 were Michalea Kirsch and Keenan Takahashi. Report to follow.

 
 
Memory is Parallax 8B+ by Isabelle Faus  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus reports on Insta that she has done Memory is Parallax 8B+ in RMNP which is a 3-star line where the crux revolves around two knee drops. Isabelle is the new #1 in the ranking game and she will be #45 among the males ones it has been recorded. In the history of 8a, only Alec Puccio has had a higher female score but with one more 8B+ by Isa, she is the #1 All Time.

"I tried really hard and found the right beta, it took probably ten sessions maybe more. The key was this new foot sequence I found, makes one move a bit harder but sets me up really well for the ending. Finding that beta definitely made it all click together. In a month I go to Swiss and then Africa this summer again. I wanna try hard and have fun!"

 
 
Four 8B+' in a month by Keenan Takahasi  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKeenan Takahashi did his first 8A being 23 years old and then he has had a strong progress for four straight years. Just during the last one month he has done four 8B+', out of which two the last week in Hueco Tanks; Blood of a Young Wolfand The Seventh Circle. (c) Brian Hedrick

How can you explain this peak?
I’m feeling pretty fit and motivated this year; I started doing some basic supplemental training to work my biggest weakness (core). Otherwise just lots of volume trying hard boulders, and some added training at the end of climbing days which I’ve never tried/done before.

What is the plan and ambition for 2019?
I’m heading to Switzerland for 6 weeks soon; the last couple of months have kind of just been preparation for that trip. I haven’t really climbed in the Ticino area so I’m really excited to finally get to spend a good chunk of time there and hopefully find some new stuff. The other big trip I have planned for the year is to get back to Rocklands in summer; I have two boulders I want to repeat but mostly want to try and develop hard highballs. It’s always been my biggest driving factor and finally having more power I’m hoping it can open doors to really pushing myself both physically and mentally.

 
 
Aggravated Assault 8B+ by Zach Galla (18)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureZach Galla, who recently won the US Combined Nationals, has done his first 8B+, Aggravated Assault in Griffin Falls.

"Oh my god yes. Used some weird heel beta. Thought it was gonna make it 8B but it still felt quite a bit harder than the others I’ve done." Full video by (c) Ashima Shiraishi

 
 
Kirk Windstein 8A (+) by Karoline Sinnhuber  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKaroline Sinnhuber, who was #8 in the Boulder WC last year, has done La Pelle left 8A and Kirk Windstein 8A (+) in Cresciano. (c) Fabian Leu

”I decided to stop competing a few weeks ago and just do outdoor stuff from now on. There are so many areas I wanna visit and I’m not really psyched for that comp style anymore.”

 
 
Sanjski par extension 9a by Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch has done his second 9a, Sanjski par extension in Osp/Misja Pec after some 35 tries, video.

"In the last two weekends I had some very close attempts but yesterday it was finally done. The route is very overhanging, partly even a horizontal roof, where you need a lot of bodytension and fingerstrength on small crimps. This is something I really love.

My ambition for 2019 is to climb more hard stuff, but for now it's time to visit my home climbing areas, to do some training and just have some fun. In spring I want to go again to Frankenjura for making some tries on the famous route "Action Directe".

At the moment there are no comps around, maybe (if it takes place this year) I will compete at the event "Free Solo Masters" in Lienz. I'm still a passionate ROCKclimber but we will see what the future will bring."

 
 
Kuzan 8C by Ryohei Kameyama  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyohei Kameyama has done his third 8C, Kuzan in Mie which is a seven moves 8B+ that finishes with a 8B dyno. (c) Muraguchi Liao

"This hard boulder was established two years ago by Toshi Takeuchi. I tried it for three sessions. I'm so happy and satisfied to feel my progress. I would like to try "Off the wagon low start" and "Sleepwalker". These boulders are so cool!"

 
 
Neanderthal 9b and Catxasa 9a+ by Adam Ondra  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has done Catxasa 9a+ and Neanderthal 9b in Santa Linya. Ondra started working the Chris Sharma 9b back in 2011 and then he tried it for several days also in 2015, 2017 and 2019 until he sent it. (c) Artofroute

"There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Neanderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally succeeding was a huge lesson."

In total, the 25 year old Czech has now done 24 routes 9b and harder. The runner ups are Chris Sharma with eight followed by Jakob Schubert and Stefano Ghisolfi with five 9b's or harder.

 
 
8A and 8A+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has had a nice day in Clear Creek Canyon where she did Off the books 8A (c) Robin O'Leary and No Halfway Crooks 8A+.

"Really fun climb! SOOO cold out! The only way I was able to climb today was from the hype and motivation from Fausey, Chad, Daniel and Robin! Thanks guys and thanks for showing us this boulder! :)"

 
 
Witness the Fitness 8C by Woods in 2013  Facebook
 

 
 
Three 8A+ flash by Thilo Schröter in Hueco  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThilo Schröter started off his trip to Hueco Tanks with an inflamed finger which luckily healed. During the first three weeks the Norweigian has done a total of 22 boulders 8A and harder out of which seven flash. More pics by Tina Hafsaas. More pics on his Insta.

It’s my first trip to Hueco, so naturally I have a lot of moderate classics to sample, and that’s what I’ve done. Milage is a lot if fun but after a month of rampage it’s time to get on some harder things. Two more weeks in Hueco ahead, and then a week checking out Red Rocks before flying back home. Then I’ll have a month to train and enjoy good conditions in Norway before the BWC‘s start. As of now I’m only planing on competing at the first three that are in Europe, and focus more on rock for the rest of the year with trips to Rocklands, Grampians, Font and the Norwegian west coast. And I plan to do Tokyo as well.”

 
 
Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) by Tina Hafsaas  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTina Hafsaas, #4 in Chamonix Lead WC in 2017, has done two 8A's and Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks. More pics and info on her Insta, (c) Thilo Schröter.

"I’m having a blast here in Hueco Tanks. The style suits me pretty well with steep and long climbing mainly on crimps. I had a great week by sending Le Chninkel and Sunshine each in one session and finish Rumble in the Jungle pretty fast as well. Now I’m sucked into project mode on a few boulders that feel harder for me. They challenge me in styles and techniques I’m not as good at and I hope I will finish them off before we head to Red Rocks.

I will do the full lead World Cup and the European and World Championship in lead. I will not aim for the Olympics as the format does not feel like the sport I am passionate about."

 
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
 
Frederico Gonçalves

Boulder: Abrigo de Ferr
o V12/8a+
 
Andrew conroy

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
ırı
 
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/
Geyikbayırı
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
ari
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Marina Jasic

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Europe & Asia Ch. best Tokyo options for Speed pros  Facebook
The last chance to qualify to the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020 are the five Continental Championships during April and May 2020. This should also, especially among the male, be the best chances for the Speed specialist to qualify. As there is a cap of two per country, in the 2019 Asian Championships with all the super strong male guys from Japan, you might qualify being #10.

On the other hand, any Speed specialist qualifying to the Top-8 will mathematically be at worst #5 overall but most probably #4 just by finishing 1 - 8 - 8. Then the Speed specialist just have to hope the 3-4 guys in front did already get their ticket in 2019. To sum up, chances are great that at least one Speed specialist per gender will make it to Tokyo.

If not there is the Tripartite commission for one selected male and female who did not qualify through results.
 
Honnold solar foundation in his van  Facebook
Read more about the Honnold Foundation that Alex has run for ten years in order to, "PROMOTING SOLAR ENERGY FOR A MORE EQUITABLE WORLD".

 
Kyparissi Festival 10-12 May with new beach sector  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureKyparissi, located some four hour respective one hour south of Athens and Leonidio, is #1 in the 8a Crag trend ranking. In between 10-12 May they will run their second Festival, more info. Aris T, aka Mr Kalymnos, has started to open a new sector just by an amazing beach which he says has one of the most beautiful settings he has ever seen and the potential in a gorge is almost endless. He will bring a team to continue they work in the end of April and he hopes that this new sector will be opened with 100 new routes during the festival.
 
Nicholas Perreth - Lifestyle climber on one leg  Facebook
 
Wanting to stop the guy who already stopped chipping?  (20) Facebook
Rock & Ice have published an open letter - Chipping and Manufacturing Climbs in Ten Sleep Canyon Needs to Stop. The original letter is mainly pointing out one guy who last week come clean and said he had stopped chipping almost a year ago. This is how he finished a post in a Facebook thread.

"I also in no way am trying to discount what I have done. Regardless of what was done previously in the canyon, I have crossed lines when bolting some of my routes. I own this 100% and have paid for those choices, am now paying for them, and will no doubt pay more in the future for them."

I have been in contact with the guys writing the open letter and asked the question why they run the - Stop the chipping campaign, when it was stopped almost a year ago? As I did not get any answer, is there anybody who knows what this really is about, as also R & I picked it up?
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano  Facebook
 
Puccio and Faus doing Halfway Crooks 8A+  Facebook
 
K2 is much more dangerous than Honnold's Free Solo  (23) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureNational Geographic has presented some more insights in regards Alex Honnold's Free Solo of the 950 meters Freerider 7c in Yosemite.

It turns out that he had practiced the boulder crux, midways up, >60 times. "One move on the most difficult section required him to cling to a pea-size nub while “karate kicking” one leg to reach a toehold."

The Freeblast slabs he practiced >90 times and the Enduro corner >40 times. This just underlines the strong message in the movie that Alex is not a lunatic but instead he had rehearsed so much so the risk was very low. In practice, the boulder crux was probably 7A+ meaning for him it was just more or less a technical and mental difficulty and the same goes for the Freeblast slab.

Alex has 961 climbs recorded in his scorecard out of which two 8A+' as well as three 8c+'. (His next climbing goal is to do 9a). So his safety margin doing 7c pitches and one 7A+ boulder was probably very big.

In reality, the best estimation how dangerous it was might be to say that if he had done it 100 times, he had fallen to the ground once. This 1 % risk of death could be compared with trying to summit K2 with a much higher probability to die.

So the million of movie viewers should instead think about how much dangerous it is to summit K2. "About one person dies on the mountain for every four who reach the summit."
 
Devastator 8A+ by Ashima inventing a new move  (4) Facebook
 
Vertical-Life Smart Quickdraw ISPO winner  Facebook
 


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