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Training articles  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureHere are some old training articles that could motivate you to keep pushing.
Patxi Usobiaga Zlagboard training
Running can be contra productive
Steve McClure training
Training 40+
Technical endurance advices
Dyno tips
Recruitment finger training

 
 
8b and 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCathy Wagner, who did her first 8a in 1994, has done her 8a+ #155, Da Lineking in Rodellar. "Sooo happy! Fell at the last move on my first go 2 weeks ago totally pumped and today, despite the wobbly warm-up, I felt steady. IMO, the right knee-bar in the middle of the 3rd part of Maskoking makes the route easier, so I'd say a soft 8a+."

The 53 year old teacher did her first 8b in 2001 and yesterday she did her 17. Interesting is that she has never started off a year as good as in 2019! If Cathy would have taken part in the ranking game, she would have been #2 in the Age & Gender ranking game, after Adam Ondra.

 
 
Sterling the best climbing rope with a very small margin  (1) Facebook
 

Based on some 1 500 unique votes, "Best climbing rope 2019?", we can see very small changes in comparison to the 2016 results, shown in brackets.

19 % Sterling (21)
18 % Beal (19)
17 % Mammut (18)
15 % Petzl (12)
14 % Edelrid (13)
10 % Tendon (12)
06 % Other (5)

 
 
Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 9a (8C) Matt Fultz  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has done the third ascent of Peter Würth's Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3 in Magic Wood, video. First you climb the boulder roof and then you clip in finishing with four bolts in order to climb and stand at the top of the gigantic bloc. "Soft 8C? Or 9a? Either way, might be Earth’s best rock climb."

In the Combined ranking game, Matt is #5 and actually with just one 8c+ route he will be #2. (c) Nevin Rajen

 
 
Muttertagsdach 8B+ FA by Toni Lamprecht (48)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToni Lamprecht, who previously has set up 14 boulders 8B+ and harder, has done the FA of Muttertagsdach 8B+ in Kochel, actually twice and there is still an extension.

"I'm working on the "Stoamatz-Projects" since last winter. The lower start in the roof is sometimes wet, that's why I climbed the "Muttertag"-version first. Then I moved some stones on the ground and now it is possible to start 2 hard moves lower. And there would be the extension.

Next to this roof-project I have some 5 other hard projects around Kochel and of course the same number of route projects. And there's more in the pre-alps of Bavaria, so it never gets boring..."

 
 
Paint it Black 8C by Daniel Fong  (5) Facebook
 

Daniel Fong, who did three 8B+' last year, has done his first 8C, Paint it Black in RMNP in just four sessions. Video on his Insta Daniel Woods put up the 65 degrees overhanging.

"Really cool to get on a hard climb that is also high quality. 4 sessions, first two were basically figuring out the second move aka my crux. Had a ton of support from the homies and tried hard, psyched to get it done before the heat comes. Out of my depth in this grade range so I’m going with consensus."

 
 
Munich Highlights  Facebook
 

 
 
Steppenwolf 8B flash by Matt Fultz  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz has had a great start of his Ticino trip. Five days ago he did 28 boulders up to 8A in order to celebrate his 28th birthday. Yesterday, he did his first 8B flash, Steppenwolf in Magic Wood. (c) Freddy High

In total, he has done 11 boulders 8A and harder including two 8B+' in the first ten days. In the 8a ranking game, he is now #6 after having had ten years of almost straight progress.

 
 
Victory for Schubert and Garnbret in Munich  (19) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra did the first three boulder first go and it seemed he had secured the win. Then Jakob Schubert did the fourth boulder putting some pressure on Ondra to at least get the zone but he did not get very close actually. This was the third WC Boulder victory for Schubert who also has won 18 Lead WC's. (c) Eddie Fowke

1. Jakob Schubert AUT 34 - Janja Garnbret SLO 44
2. Adam Ondra CZE 33 - Fanny Gibert FRA 44
3. Jan Hojer GER 24 - Mia Krampl SLO 33
4. Aleksey Rubtsov RUS 23 - Julia Chanourdie FRA 22
5. Anze Peharc SLO 14 - Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 13
6. Jongwon Chon KOR 13 - Katja Kadic SLO 12
Complete results

Among the female, Janja Garnbret won her seventh straight Boulder World Cup by just needing five attempts for the four final boulders. Runner-up was Fanny Gibert needing eight tries to top them all.

It most be mentioned that the five best male Japanese who all where in the Top-7, two weeks ago, did not participate as they are training and competing at home as a preparation for the WCH. Among the female, six of the Top-8 in Wujiang, out of which the four best from Japan, did also not participate.

 
 
Fred Rouhling's Akira 8C+ instead of 9b?  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn 1995, Fred Rouhling put up Akira at Le Périgord as the world's first 9b in 1995, when 9a+ did not exist, after several months of projecting. It starts with an horizontal 12 meter boulder roof and then you tie in and finish an eight meter 8a, video. Previously he had done some 9a and 8B+ out of which some are still not repeated. Back then and until Climbing.com presented an article in 2004 most thought he was a liar, although 8a had backed him up. Still, he has not gotten the full credit for taking the biggest grade step in the history of climbing. Insta with pictures from his work as an artist.

Chatting with him you understand that possibly it would have been best to suggest 9a+ or even better 8C in 1995 and indicate that it could be harder waiting for an upgrade.

"For sure now it’s obvious but at that moment there was nothing comparable. There was not even any crash pads and no roof boulders in Fontainebleau or elsewhere. Fred Nicole open the first 8B+ Radja in 1995 the same year of Akira. If I have said 8C+ it would have been the same problem."

Fred has done a total of six FA 9a or harder including Salamandre 9a+ and the three unrepeated; De l’autre côté du ciel 9a, Mandallaz drive 9a, pictured, and Empreintes 9a+.

"I was quite obsessed with the limit between the possible and the impossible. It’s only in the first ascent that we can have this sensation. It is not funny to have detractors but on the other hand to have done things that other consider impossible it’s a consecration especially if these climbers are supposed to be among the best."

Many of the best including Alex Huber (who was right about that 9b+ for Bernabe Fernandez) and Dani Andrada, said they did not believe Fred.

Today he thinks he is more poet than a sport climber. "I enjoy spending time in contemplate nature, reading books and picking stones. I kept a lot of strength and I can still do 8A without training or tiredness, just happiness! I prefer do small boulder with only one or two hard moves. There are not so many in this style which are more than 8b. La Proue, one move 8B, is incredible. It was a nice opportunity to open Akira and I'm grateful for that."

 
 
Ondra and Garnbret win the semi  Facebook
 

Janja Garnbret must have set some kind of superiority record in the semi in Munich by doing all four boulders in eight tries at the same time runner up Ievgeniia Kazbekova did just get one top and no extra zones. Imagine how the route setters felt as it took 300+ attempts until the first top! Half of the field did at most do one zone out of which four no zones at all.

Among the male, Adam Ondra won being the only one to top all four boulders. Strangely enough, the Japanese who were among the best in the qually were all among the last in the semi. Complete results

 
 
5 female and 3 male from Slovenia in Top-12  (3) Facebook
 

Slovenia with two million inhabitants dominated the qually in Munich when Japan had nine of their Top-10 absent. Anyhow, three of the Top-7 male were from Japan. The winners of the respectively groups were Janja Garnbret, Urska Repusic, Yoshiyuki Ogata and Anze Peharc. Complete results

 
 
James Webb #2 to reach 12 000 points  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLast week, we reported that Daniel Woods became the first boulderer to reach 12 000 points in the 8a scorecard ranking game. Now, with the FA of Primitivo 8C in Valle Bavona, James Webb has gotten 12 040 points, only 3 points below Daniel.

On the other hand, only counting flashes, James is kind of superior with 14 8B flashes. (c) Keenan Takahashi

 
 
9 of the Top-10 from Japan skip Munich  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAccording to the Munich starting list, the Top-4 female and Top-6 male from Japan (but Yoshiyuki Ogata) are not scheduled to compete in Muncih. These nine boulderers have made it to the semi 28 out of 31 times in 2019. (c) Eddie Fowke

In the last event in Wujiang, the four female were all Top-7 and the five male were all Top-7! Shauna Coxey as well as Stasa Gejo are also missing. This means we will see many new faces in the semi and in the finals at the same time this will be the most important WC in 2019, to get a good combined ranking score.

 
 
Best Climbing Rope - 2019  Facebook
 


 
 
Ondra Road to Tokyo #13 - Wujiang  Facebook
 

 
 
Mandanga Total 9a (8c+) and three 8c+' by Jonathan Siegrist  (10) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist, who did a 9b in Villanueva del Rosario ten days ago, has at the same crag done Mandanga total 9a (8c+) and another three 8c+' the last week. (c) Javi Pec

"Hard boulder problems and very good rests. Any line that goes to the top of this cliff is automatically 4 stars! Tough to grade, but seems like low 9a for the cliff. 3 tries including the bottom. No knee bars."

J-star is #3 in the 8a ranking game and in total he has now done 43 routes 9a and harder. More info on his Insta. "This last week has been awesome for me, feeling relief that the main objective is over and climbing a muerte on these other 5 star lines. At this point my body and mind are completely blown out, and it’s time for some serious rest."

 
 
Faus, Webb and Cameroni doing Primitivo 8B & 8C  Facebook
 

 
 
La Padrina 8a+ Cathy Wagner (53)  (12) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done La Padrina 8a+ in Capçanes in just three days, "greatly facilitated by the powerful unexpected wind of the evening."

The 53-year-old has done 63 8a's to 8b during the last year and in total, 720 since 1994, out of which 23 % second go.

 
 
The Game 8C by Ryuichi Murai  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRyuichi Murai reports on Insta that he had done The Game in Boulder Canyon which was his tenth 8C.

"I’m so happy to send Daniel’s masterpiece ! It took 2 days to send. First day, this boulder was bad condition due to rain and snow. I could do compression moves of upper part on the day, but bottom part (from start holds to 3rd hold) was so wet, and I couldn’t do.

Second day, this boulder was better condition and I managed to climb it in the evening. When I touched this boulder at the first time, I was certain that I can climb because I’m good at roof climbing and compression moves. So I could do quick ascent though it's a hard problem."
(c) Oda Momo

 
Markus Adamaszek

TEC-B6-L6, Fb 6a bloc,
Albarracín
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Saint Joseph
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Andreas Hanisch

Jungle Book stand 7c+,
Cresciano
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Kleopatra 8a, Alabalık/
Geyikbayırı
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

Aren de hembras 8a ferr
ari
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Gonçalo "Gongas" Coutinho

"Manuel Fruto do Mel" -
6a - Atlântida
 
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
na
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Many of the best skip Vail  (10) Facebook
From the starting list to the Boulder WC we can see only four of the female Top-10 will participate. Among the male, the winner in Munich Jakob Schubert and Anze Peharc skip it. In practice this means that in Vail, like also in Munich last week, many of the best do not participate.

Most probably, the reason for this is that many think the Olympics is more important. The season is very long and will be finished with the qualification event in France.
 
Eddie Fowke presentation  Facebook
 
FAs in Val Bavona  Facebook
 
Poor Olympic qually results for the Americans  Facebook
Sean McColl from Canada, who has won the Combined WCH three times, has had a bad start in the World Cup in 2019 as well the whole male USA team. Nathaniel Coleman is #22 in the Bouldering WC and Sean is #32. The rest of the male from Canada and USA have in total not once been in Top-25 although competing with normally 3 + 4 guys, during the five events.

Among the female it is better with Alannah Yip from Canada #12 and for USA, Alex Johnson #13 overall, followed by Kyra Kondie #22. On the other hand, big names like Ashima Shiraishi, Brooke Raboutou and Margo Hayes have not done performed according expectations.

In two weeks, the last Boulder World Cup in Vail takes place. If there will be any Americans in the Olympic Top-20 qualification event in Toulouse in November it is time to step up. As it stands, Nathaniel Coleman and Allanah Yip have the best chance as they have done some relatively good results in Speed. However until now, no American have been Top-6 and this is crucial as the Combined ranking is based on just multiplication of the two best results. In order to qualify to Toulouse, you are better off with one or two really good results in each discipline, instead of being multiple times around position #15.
 
Overall after five out of six events  (8) Facebook
Counting four out of five before the last WC in Vail in June.
1. Adam Ondra CZE 284 - Janja Garnbret SLO 400
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 260 - Fanny Gibert FRA 243
3. Anze Peharc SLO 193 - Akiyo Noguchi JPN 240
4. Kokoro Fujii JPN 190 - Jessica Pilz AUT 194
5. Jakob Schubert AUT 184 - Petra Klingler 180
6. Jernej Kruder SLO 182 - Futaba Ito JPN 178
7. Alexsey Rubtsov RUS 180 - Katja Kadic SLO 147
8. Rei Sugimoto JPN 171 - Shauna Coxsey 145
Complete results

In practice, the overall male title is a battle in between Adam Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki although all Top-5 can in theory win. If Tomoa wins in Vail, Adam need to be runner up.
 
Janja Garnbret (20) best competition track record ever  (10) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureJanja Garnbret has won the last six WC boulder events she has entered. In Lead, she has missed the podium once in all the 25 WCs she has done since she was 15 years old. In total, she has won 62 % of all Boulder and Lead WCs she has competed in. In the four World CH events she has participated in she has won three gold and one silver. (c) Eddie Fowke from last year winning in Munich.

Interestingly, she has been selective and not done all comps any year. Last year she just did three out of seven Boulder WCs and in 2016 she did not participate in the WCH. During the years we have seen many youngster being very successful being 15 or 16 years old but all most of them stopped competing quite early. Adam Ondra has also been careful selecting comps in the start of his career.
 
France dominated in Graz  (1) Facebook
France dominated the European Youth Cup in Graz. In total they got two golds and eight Top-4 positions. The most superior winner was once again Oriane Bertone who did all eight problems in the qualification first try and she was the only one to do all four final boulders.

00: Leo Favot FRA - Camilla Moroni ITA
02: Alberto Gines ESP - Nika Potapova UKR
04: Oriane Bertone FRA - Jim Zeimes LUX
Complete results
 
Vertical-Life’s Underdogs to adidas ROCKSTARS  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureQualify for the top-class bouldering invitational and compete with the best bouldering athletes in the world!

This year, two users of the Vertical-Life app will have the chance to compete at the prestigious adidas ROCKSTARS among the best climbers on the planet – it could be YOU!

Here is how the selection works:
Check if your gym is on Vertical-Life, and if so, mark your climbed boulders in the app and take first in your gym’s bouldering ranking by July 31st. The best climber from each gym will enter into the crowd voting. All Vertical-Life users will be able to vote for their male and female favorites. If you are among the 10 athletes with the most votes, you will enter into the jury stage. An international jury will select one male and one female climber. The winners have the honor of competing in their gym’s name at adidas ROCKSTARS in Stuttgart on September 13th-14th.

The Underdog winners will get an athlete invite to adidas ROCKSTARS and compete with the top athletes of the international bouldering circuit. They'll enjoy the same privileges on site as the invited pros. All travel and accommodation expenses will be covered. There's an additional bonus for all high performing climbers: adidas will reward the 10 crowd favorites with an adidas / Five Ten Underdog Package, while the best climbers of each gym will receive a prize from Vertical-Life.

1. Participate in your home gym’s ranking on Vertical-Life
2. Be among the top 10 athletes in the crowd favorite voting
3. Be chosen by the VL jury and participate at adidas ROCKSTARS

Check out the Underdog Website to find out more about participation and ranking criteria. If your gym is not yet on Vertical-Life, you can send a request to gym@vertical-life.info and encourage your gym’s management to sign up.
 
Very Woods in Rocklands  Facebook
 
Bouldering understandable, fair, anticlimax, cheating etc  (10) Facebook
8a was the only media present during the IFSC Olympic meeting with IOC in Lausanne last month. Here are improvements in regards the Bouldering format and rules suggested by me.

Understandable
1. Digital understandable scoring live updated on the TV-screen so even the non climbers can follow who is in the lead and what is needed to advance.

2. Take out the letters T and z and count and present only points 34 points instead of 3T4z. Ties will be separated by number of tries as already done. ”Welcome to the Bouldering Final. You get 1 point for controlling the zone and another 10 for topping out. The best possible score is 44 points.”

Anticlimax/Fairness/Cheating
1. How to judge ”control” matching the top but swinging out at 3.59 sec? The solution is to say you just need to touch the top before 4 minutes.
2. Appeals must be filed within 10 min and presented on the live screen.
3. How to deal with spectators screaming beta?
4. How to deal with boulderers looking at each other in semi?
5. The conditions deteriorates and with 8 finalists the disadvantage starting first increases. Better brushing after 4 two climbers including standing on stairs with blowing equipment. Change to LED-spotlight so the temperature do not rise.

Format changes after 2020 – This could be tested on Youth
a. Add one more zone = More fair and more excitement
b. Increase to 8 finalists/4 boulders = More countries and more action
c. Save 30 – 40 min: Rotate on 2 first boulders and only Top-6 finish
d. Break before last boulder = Commercial/Coffe break needed in 90 min show
e. Rotate starting order before last boulder = More fair and increased excitement
 


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