LATEST NEWS

Tuesday, 17 November

The Way to Change #1

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Super Pod 9a by Jonathan Siegrist

Tuesday, 17 November

Super Pod 9a by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist has done his 39th 9a, Super Pod at New Riger Gorge. "Totally desperate (!!) crimp boulder after the most lovely 8a ever. Low in the grade. 4 tries." On Insta he comments, "When the weather cooperates it sure does feel like this might just be the best crag in America..." (c) Tesla Mitchell

His comments on Still Life 8c, reveals that this route is also of the highest quality. "Damn. A complete masterpiece. The rumours are true!! Same day as Super Pod. So psyched on the New right now!"

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MORE NEWS

Hulk Extension Total 8c+ by "Citro" (50)

Tuesday, 17 November

Hulk Extension Total 8c+ by "Citro" (50)

Carlos "Citro" Logroño reports on Insta that he has done Hulk Extension Total 8c+ in Rodellar. Interestingly, Citro has never done a 9a so he is peaking at age 50. More info to come. (c) Javi Pec

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Tuesday, 17 November

Megos doing Bibliographie 9c

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Beautiful pain 8c+ by Lucija Tarkus (17)

Monday, 16 November

Beautiful pain 8c+ by Lucija Tarkus (17)

Lucija Tarkus from Slovenia has done her first 8c+, Beautiful pain in Kotecnik.

"At first, I didn’t intend to dedicate myself to climb this route. Instead, I wanted to send Butnskala 8b+. When I sent it on my first attempt day, I decided to just try to climb Beautiful pain. I couldn't send it the same day as I only tried the moves. Then, on the next day succeeded on my 5th attempt yesterday."

In 2018, she won two Euro Cups and last year she got the bronze in Bouldering in the Euro Championship. The picture by Fabian Poels is from Arco.

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La Force Tranquille direct 8C FA by Jakob Schubert

Monday, 16 November

La Force Tranquille direct 8C FA by Jakob Schubert

Jakob Schubert reports on Insta that he first did the second repeat of Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille 8C in Magic Wood in just one session. On the next session, he opted for the original direct exit and within an hour he made the FA of the direct and although a bit harder, it remains 8C. (c) Michael Piccolruaz

The 29-year-old Austrian, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has been the best male Lead competition climber the last ten years. In total, he has won 21 World Cups, out of which 18 in Lead. Including also one 9b+ and four 9b's, Jakob should be considered the runner up climber in the world after Adam Ondra during the last ten years together with Alex Megos.

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Memento mori 8c by Alex Totkova (15)

Sunday, 15 November

Memento mori 8c by Alex Totkova (15)

Alex Totkova, the 15-year-old, who did her first 9a this spring has sent Memento mori 8c in Golyamata Dupka. It took her six sessions but that was because she did not find the right beta. "It was my mistake so therefore it took me a long time".

Last year, she won A Euro Youth Cup in both Lead and Boulder, and in the World Championship, she got the silver in Combined.

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