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Flash record breaking day by Will Bosi; 8B+, 8A+ and 8A+

William Bosi has set a new "world record" when it comes to boulder flashes during one day, with an amazing triple; Fénixovy Slzy (8A+), Charizard (8B+) and The Swirl King SS (8A+). Add to that the last one was a FA from a sit start (the stand is 8A) and also that he made a reversed link-up of the first two he flashed, creating the FA of Bulbasaur (8C), we are talking a bouldering day for the records book. Video of Martin Stranik doing the second ascent of the 8C.

How did you prepare for this trip?
I spent the last 3 months completely focused on getting as strong as possible by board climbing and doing campus boulders basically every session. So around 2-3 hours of board climbing followed by about 1-2 hours of campus boulders. Was my main session. Training mostly 2 days on 1 day off. I would mix in climbing at Raven tor some mornings as well to keep the rock try hard.

Carlota la colombiana 9a+ by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Carlota la colombiana 9a+ by Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the FA of Carlota la colombiana (9a+) in Margalef. "Yeah! One more step in my big project and with this, the puzzle is solved. Now for the REAL, the motivation doesn't stop!! About the grade, I don't know, I've climbed a lot here and I don't know anything anymore... 9a+? Maybe a little less 9a/+? Repeaters will say." (c) Zac Moss

The ”REAL” is his big project described as a 9b followed by a 15 moves 8A+/B boulder, which he already has spent 50+ days on.

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Technical and aesthetic evolution: La Sportiva presents Katana Laces

Advertorial: For the SS2022 collection, La Sportiva releases the new version of the Katana Laces shoe, which enriches the climbing category and is presented as …

Lena Müller "ecopoints" 350 km on a bike to climb two dream cracks

Last year, we made an interview with Lena Müller and the ecological crises. She is currently doing a PhD at the University of Innsbruck about the effects of climate change on mountain ecosystems. In the documentary video she takes her bike 350 km to climb two dream cracks.

Janja trains almost only on a spraywall

"I do 95 % of the training on the wall. I am not doing any finger boarding. I am not doing any fitness. I am training six times a week for four hours on the spray wall and that is it. I kept repeating to myself, "if I am not having fun, then I will not win". It is as simple as that." Janja also thin…

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Another Play in Paradise (7c, Lienz Dolomites)

Advertorial: Another Play in Paradise is a spicy route, one of 129 that traverse the south-facing slopes of the Lienz Dolomites in 5 sectors ranging in difficul…

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L'isola che non c'è 9a by Christof Rauch

L'isola che non c'è 9a by Christof Rauch

Christof Rauch has done his third 9a in just eleven days, L'isola che non c'è in Amden. "Amazing hybrid between bouldering and route climbing. It all starts with an awesome roof boulder on amazing holds, leads into a slightly easier middle part and finishes with a short and powerful boulder on the rope, followed by some easier climbing to the top. Really happy to get the third ascent of this amazing Fred Nicole testpiece!"

How hard is the roof boulder and then the rope climbing?
It shares Ragtime 8B+ untill the last ~6 moves (~7A/B) but has another 5-moves 8A crux on the rope instead, followed by some easier climbing to the top.

How many sessions were needed to send?
I did it (Ragtime) in two sessions in 2016. Over the next years, I had two sessions on the route. Last autumn I invested three more sessions and got really close to sending it but then the snow came and it was too cold. Yesterday was my first session this year. I felt stronger than last autumn and surprised myself with a send.

F... the system 9a by Jonathan Siegrist

F... the system 9a by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist continues striking in Santa Linya doing his fifth 9a over just three weeks, Fuck The system (9a). "Barely pulled this one off in the final days of my trip with horrible conditions. SO happy. For sure easier than the other 9a I did, but also one of the best for movement."

In total, the 36-year-old has now done 60 routes 9a and harder which makes him #6 on that list. Interesting is that he did his first 9a at age 24 and that his last year is his best year ever after almost twelve years of continuous progress. He is #2 in the 8a ranking game after Adam Ondra. In other words, Jonathan is a great example of a late bloomer.

Below is how he two weeks ago explained his great progress lately. The picture is from last autumn. "I worked really hard for the last 4 years to address some of my weaknesses with training and also with the projects I choose outside which definitely helped me make some progression! Also as I’ve gotten older I’ve learned to be more patient, rest more, and take really good care of myself. But ultimately it’s not much about how ‘strong’ I am (actually I am super weak when compared to top climbers!), it’s more about just prioritizing being outside and climbing on rock a muerte as much as possible."

Sviní Mor 8B flash by Will Bosi

Sviní Mor 8B flash by Will Bosi

William Bosi has flashed his third 8B, Sviní Mor in Moravský kras which was put up by Adam Ondra in 2013. In the video, Will actually seems to cruise it. "Definitely felt pretty in control and strong on the problem! To prepare for the flash, I watched a video of Adam Ondra on it. Then took about 10 minutes at the crag memorising the moves. The problem suits my style well so as soon as I had the undercut I was sure I would do it."

The 25-year-old has been a very active and successful competition climber since 2012 but he has previously said that he will take a break from the WC circuit and focus on outdoors after not qualifying for the Olympics. Last year he made nine routes 9a to 9b+.

How long have you been in the area and what has been your focus?
I've been here since the 23rd of March and I’m staying till the end of April. Quite a lot of bouldering and a bit of lead mainly at Sloup and Holstejn, had a really good trip so far with quite a lot of sends. I have Band of Birds coming out in the last week to get some good photos and I’ll need to check all the info and then you know the full ticklist 😁

Adam Ondra comments on Insta, " @will_bosi 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 has stayed in my hometown Brno 🇨🇿 for a few weeks. Absolutely crushing some of the local testpieces in Moravský Kras (Moravian Karst) 💪 You can see both of us on the Czech Cup in lead in Brno (@hudystenabrno) tomorrow 😎"

Digital system 8c flash by Jonathan Siegrist

Digital system 8c flash by Jonathan Siegrist

Jonathan Siegrist, who three days ago did his 9a #41, JoeDan (c) Cameron Maier, has flashed Digital system (8c) in Santa Linya. In just the last two months, the 36-year-old has done seven routes 8c to 9a+ and he is #2 in the 8a ranking game.

"My friend Dru Mack gave me the beta for the first half (the crux) but I did not have any beta for the second half. SO when I made it to the middle rest he actually swapped out the belay with Yann so he could go far back from the wall and give me running beta. I had to improvise (as always) for some sections but otherwise his beta was great! He knows me and my size (I am only 167cm) really well so normally he can help me with beta for me specifically. It was a goal of mine in Santa Linya since I first saw the line! It's a beauty. I don't have a background in competition at all so typically I am not a great flash or especially onsight climber, but I love to try."

El Gauhara 8A+ by Stasa Gejo

El Gauhara 8A+ by Stasa Gejo

Staša Gejo stopped by in Zillertal on her way back home after being #6 in Meiringen, (c) Martin Rahn, and did a very quick ascent of El Gauhara (8A+). ”Did the stand in a few tries but the low start left me falling at the top so many times. Still happy to have done them in an afternoon.”

The last year, she has previously done two 8B’s and five 8A+ and in the 8a ranking game she is #5.

What is your next outdoor plan?
Plan... uh... these bouldering visits are so spontaneaous that I cannot really plan them 😅 I really like Zillertal, might be back more often, it is only 2h from Munich.