Vojta Trojan has done his fourth 9a, Pornographie in Ceuse, after projecting it for ten days. (c) Adria Martinez
“It's a pretty short power endurance climb with two hard sections separated with kneebar rest. It's always challenging to climb something hard in Ceüse and I'm super happy to lead this battle to a successful end.”
Andi Fichtner, who did her first 8A in 2019, has done her first 8A+, Happy Camper in Frankenjura.
What is your climbing background?
At the age of 19 I started climbing with the goal of becoming an alpinist. Rock climbing was just training for north faces, steep iceclimbing, long combined routes.
When I turned 30, I took part in a boulder fun cup - this was my start in competition climbing which I practiced the next 10 years. I climbed nationals and some speed climbing and bouldering world cups.
My next step took me outdoors again: started to do some rope climbing projects and a lot of bouldering.
How can you explain doing your hardest ever Boulder at 40+?
All in good time! Now that I started bouldering on natural rock it's exciting to see how I can keep improving over the months and years. Figuring out moves has always been my favourite thing and competitive experience helps me for quick and suitable beta. And a nice trait I carried over from my mountaineering days is the will to fight and never give up ;-)
Irina Kuzmenko, #3 in the Euro Bouldering Championship in 2019, has done two 8A's in Rocklands; In the Middle of the Ass and The Hatchling. "Mentally hard for me because sooooo high! I’m more about low boulders. 20 times was on the top then with the screaming climbing down then jump :)))))" (c) Juliet Lenova.
Loic Zehani has done the FA of Little Fish 9a+ in Orgon. The 19-year-old has now done 32 routes graded 9a to 9b, out of which 19 FAs. "It shares the same start as "Le Poisson Pilote" (9a+) but the exit is different (on the left). It took me one session (I was surprised it went so fast) as two years ago it took me 40 tries to make the original version."
Luca Bana, who did Goldrake 9a+ in just three sessions in 2019, has done Moonlanding 9a in Passo della Presolana. It is the third ascent after Stefano Carnati and Gabri Moroni
"Moon Landing is an outstanding 30 meters line located at Passo della Presolana's crag: it's a logical linkup that follows the entire overhanging pillar from the bottom right to top left: basically a resistant 8c+ into a final heinous traverse on bad holds and poor feet around 8A FB.
Having already done all the single routes of this portion of rock, the next step was to connect them. Then, this year, from the second period of June, I came back to the crag with only one goal in mind and I re-started to try the moves and the sections. In a short time, I was able to climb again the first 8c+ part, while in the next 4/5 goes I fell off in the hard final traverse. Finally, last Saturday, despite the warm conditions, I managed to pass the heinous redpoint crux and grab the final jug. I'm really proud of this gem, bolted together with Berni Rivadossi as the other hard routes of the crag. About the difficulty I found it quite challenging for the grade, I'd say hard 9a."
Andrea Chelleris, Italian Slalom Champion this spring, has done his first 9a, Pure Dreaming in Arco. The 12-year-old has been living in a van in Arco since mid-June and needed 19 tries to take it down. During the winter he is training slalom five times a week and then in April he changed to climbing but due to the Covid situation, he has mainly been training at his home wall. His father and mother are also active climbers and Andrea started climbing when he was 5-years-old and did his first 8b+ at age 9.
Chaehyun Seo, who won the Lead World Cup in 2019, in a superior style, is one of the contenders for a medal in Tokyo.
How did covid-19 affect your training and preparation for Tokyo?
Because of covid-19, all the gyms of Seoul closed so I had to travel to Suncheon, which is 6 hours away from Seoul. That was a little bit tiring for me. In 2021, I just trained like before with team training. And always wearing a mask everywhere even when I trained.
What about your fathers climbing gym?
That is almost like my second home so I can train there anytime I want. It has been open since the winter.
What about specific Speed, Lead and Boulder training?
I didn’t train much time for speed! In Lead and Boulder, I trained like just the way I have done before, including Comp simulations at team training.
How much per week and how do you train?
Around 7 hours per during 4-5 days a week out of which 2-3 hours weight training on an average. Just like before😅. Stretching just for warm up
Outdoors, she has done three 8b+ and Seoknangil 8c+ this spring as part of her training.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 1 * 1 * 4 = 4 2. Adam Ondra CZE 4 * 3 * 1 = 12 3. Colin Duffy USA 2 * 4 * 3 = 24 4. Michael Mawem FRA 3 * 2 * 6 = 36 5. Jakob Schubert AUT 7 * 5 * 2 = 70 6. Alberto Gines Lopez 5 * 7 * 5 = 175 7. Nathaniel Coleman 6 * 6 * 7 = 252 8. Bassa Mawem FRA DNS It might feel strange th…
Eric Hörst has published a video of Bassa Maẃem's catastrophic muscle/tendon failure in his left biceps, on his Insta, Training for Climbing. Eric says that "this bicep tear is likely the result of excessive speed/power training making the tendon too stiff (i.e. stiffer than the bicep is strong)." …
IFSC has published their male qualification report including comments by Adam Ondra. “It's a big step for Sport Climbing. In the world of the competition, it's …
The screenshot is from www.Olympics.com which also has a very good live reporting.
Bassa Mawem, who won Speed in great style and secured a position in the final, seemed to have torn his left biceps at the start of the Lead qualification. He le…
The route setters were almost spot on creating an interesting route, although half had a tied score. From a spectator point of view, it was a bit sad that after a rather good start, the performance declined until the very end. The biggest surprise was that Adam Ondra was #4 but it looked more like a…
Sensational bouldering by Mickael Mawem getting three tops in four tries and all four zones in five tries. In 2021, his best bouldering WC results, out of four, was #10. On the other hand, he was #4 in the World Championship in 2018 and in 2019, he won the Euro Championship, so he is used to deliver…
Mawem brothers were the big winners in Speed. Bassa won with 5.45 which means he will most probably be #4 or #5 overall. Younger brother Michael set a new PB with 5.95 and was #3 after Tomoa Narasaki with 5.95, as both the Speed specialists Ludovic Fossali and Rishat Khaibullin slipped. If Michael i…
Sport Climbing will make its debut in the Olympics on Tuesday 3/8 at 5 pm (10 am Euro Time), with the Speed discipline. The starting order is on lane A reversed to the seeding (how and when they qualified to the Olympics) and on lane B with a stagger of 50 %. This means that first out will be Christ…
1. Tomoa Narasaki 5 * 1 * 6 = 30 2. Adam Ondra 17 * 2 * 1 = 343. Jakob Schubert 8 * 3 * 3 = 72 4. Alex Megos 18 * 6 * 2 = 216 5. Alberto Ginés Lopéz 7 * 8 * 5 = 280 6. Kai Harada 6 * 5 * 11 = 330 7. Colin Duffy 10 * 9 * 4 = 360 8. Bassa Mawem 1 * 19 * 19 = 361 Not into the final 9. Michael Mawem 4 *…
Jon Glassberg reports on Insta that Jakob Schubert prepares with the vest ice and wrist ice combo. It is predicted to be 30 degrees when the Speed qualification…
Daniel Gajda is the official IFSC photographer. We asked him for some comments of his impressions and who has looked strong in the preparation, including in Spe…