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Rubtsov reports from the Olympic Village

Rubtsov reports from the Olympic Village

I arrived on Saturday July 27th. I came here alone, our team will arrive on August 1st. Training at the climbing wall began on July 29 and will continue until the start of the competition. There are 2 bouldering walls: one in the warm-up area and one in the competition area. On the lead wall 4 routes have been prepared. The speed wall is 10 and 15 meters. All this is available in the evening 2 hours a day, separately guys and girls on a schedule. A fitness room is available in the village 24 hours a day. You can also just exercise outside on the grass, stretch, or whatever. Many athletes running or cycling / skateboarding around the village. I generally like the village :)

Mostly I walk around the village and ride a skateboard :) I like the atmosphere and a huge number of the best athletes from all over the world around. I'm just enjoying this. I plan another 1-2 trainings at the climbing wall and every day I go to fitness on the territory of the village.

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Brooke Raboutou is one of the favourites getting a medal in Tokyo based on her extreme progress in 2021. Including one Speed comp, her worst result out of six WC's was #12. Prior to this year, her best IFSC senior result was #15 in Lead in the World Championship in 2019. Outdoors, she has during the last year done seven boulders 8A+ to 8B+ including one flash.

Brooke Raboutou Olympic preparation interview

Brooke Raboutou is one of the favourites getting a medal in Tokyo based on her extreme progress in 2021. Including one Speed comp, her worst result out of six WC's was #12. Prior to this year, her best IFSC senior result was #15 in Lead in the World Championship in 2019. Outdoors, she has during the last year done seven boulders 8A+ to 8B+ including one flash.

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Arco Iris 8c+ MP by Seb Berthe, taking a 25m whipper

Arco Iris 8c+ MP by Seb Berthe, taking a 25m whipper

Sebastien Berthe, one of the leading multi-pitch and big wall climbers in the world, has done the first repeat of Edu Marin’s 200 meter Arco Iris 8c+ in Montserrat. The Belgien confirms the 8c+ but thinks the other hard pitches were one grade easier. Still, it is one of the hardest MPs in the world. (c) Julia Cassou

Arco Iris is my hardest achievement in multipitch climbing for sure. This ancient aid route is really sustained and incredible: it follows an overhanging corner for 5 pitches (6c, 8b+, 8c+, 8b, 8a+). Edu rebolted the line with huge runouts so the freeclimb does not bother the aid, which is really important there in Montserrat. I took the longest whipper of my life, about 25m, trying hard on the 8c+... This makes it really hard for the mental, but I think he did a great job there! Despite some loosy rock, the holds are crazy and the climbing is great and so pumpy!

Sunday was my fourth day working the route, and I was'nt sure I had a chance this day. Anyway, I went "a muerte" with my belgian friend Baptiste Verdin as belayer and partner. I sent the first pitch pretty easily compared to the previous times. On my first go on the 8c+, I fell where I broke the holds the last time. I worked on the beta a bit more and took 2 hours of rest. On my second try, I climbed really well but felt more and more tired while progressing on the route. I reached the point where I fell before and shout loudly while doing the move. I really was at the limit. During the last 10m, I fought hard at every move, probably one of the biggest fight of my life! On the two following pitches, I gave my best. Despite the pump I sent them directly. After about 9 hours on the route we were on the top of the wall :-) I was so psyched and happy about it!”

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Magnus Midtbö, one of the best competition climbers some ten years ago, when he also was #4 in the World Champions, runs one of the most popular Climbing Youtube channels. Here he gives his 20 Pro tips including talking about eating disorder.

Midtbö's 20 Pro Tips

Magnus Midtbö, one of the best competition climbers some ten years ago, when he also was #4 in the World Champions, runs one of the most popular Climbing Youtube channels. Here he gives his 20 Pro tips including talking about eating disorder.

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Mutation 9a by Cameron Hörst

Mutation 9a by Cameron Hörst

Cameron Hörst, who did his first 9a+ in May, has done his fourth 9a, Mutation at Wild Iris. It was set up by BJ Tilden in 2016 and has only been repeated by Jonathan Siegrist before. (c) Eric Hörst

"YEAHHHH, that's right a 100 foot, 80 move HARD route a Wild iris. This place provides!! Breakdown is hard 8c to a good rest. Rest holds are good but your core is still getting worked and you're totally on your arms. Then you have really powerful and resistant 8b+ to the top! The last hard move is so intense, blind deadpoint to an easy to miss three-finger pocket. Sheesh that move gave me grief. Route is logistically contrived, but if those factors could be removed "mutation" would be famous!"

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Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a (8c+) by Filip Schenk

Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a (8c+) by Filip Schenk

Filip Schenk, who has won eleven Youth Cups/Championships, has done Kein Licht Kein Schatten 9a (8c+) in Ötztal on his second session. Being 17-years-old, in 2017, he was #15 in the Euro Lead Championship. (c) Patrick Tirler

"The moves are really unique, especially the last hard boulder where you have to match two underclings and then jump to a good hole in the middle of this steep wall! These are moves you don't find so often on the rock, you are more used to them from the gyms."

What is next?
I will go back next month to the gym to train for the World Championships in September. After that I will try to climb as much as possible on rock again, mainly in Arco where I still have some cool projects and then after I would love to go for a trip to Spain!

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Five MPs 7c-8b FA by Dani Andrada

Five MPs 7c-8b FA by Dani Andrada

Dani Andrada, the most dedicated hardcore bolter in the world in the last 25 years, has placed 170 bolts in the last three weeks. Most of them he drilled on five 130 - 222 meter long multi-pitches graded 7c to 8b in La Hermida in the north of Spain. "La Machina" says all of them are five stars and that some are vertical and others are more overhanging, including also tufas.

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Power of Now 8C (B+) in an hour by Tim Reuser

Power of Now 8C (B+) in an hour by Tim Reuser

Tim Reuser, #11 in the Lead World Championship 2019, has been on a four days trip to Magic Woods where he did six boulders 8A+ and harder. Most impressive was his one-hour ascent of Power of Now giving it a personal 8B+ grade, saying it was his style.

What is your style?
I’m good in big moves and keeping a lot of tension on my feet in an overhang. When the holds are relatively good I can make very far dynamic moves. When I saw the footage of power of now I knew this boulder would suit me very well.

What is your next plan?
I really want to do an 8C+ one day. Probably the lines I have the most chance on are Ephyra in Chironico or The big Island assis in Fontainebleau. Maybe I will try them at the end of the year.

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