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From dirt grows the flower 8C by Florian Wientjes

From dirt grows the flower 8C by Florian Wientjes

Florian Wientjes, who last week did Dreamtime 8B+/C, reports on Insta that he has done From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. (c) XaverQuintus.net

Could you tell us more about the ascent?
I start trying it 4 years ago and since session one, I fell on this hard mantle. In isolation, the mantle worked pretty well but from the bottom always something went wrong Like cold fingers, no friction, small mistakes or hesitation. I spent around three sessions per season on it but this season I changed my beta for the mantle using a heel hook instead of just standing. It makes it a bit more physical but way safer. Usually, I always prefer standing before a heel hook so I am glad that I tried it and it worked out :)

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by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Jo Nesbø’s (62) road to 8a

Jo Nesbø’s (62) road to 8a

Jo Nesbø, a global bestselling crime writer, who has sold 50+ million books in 50+ languages, has done Elephant (8a) at Railay. (c) Hanna Jordan "I'm not going …

8c by David Bermudez (13)

8c by David Bermudez (13)

David Bermudez Carbonell, who started climbing two and a half years ago at age eleven, has done El calvario del sicario (8c) in Cuenca, in just ten tries. We sp…

Slashface 8B by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio, runner-up in the World Championship in 2014, has done 250+ boulders 8A and up, which is a female record. In the video she sends the classic Slashface (8B) in Hueco Tanks (TX).

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Seb Bouin interview

Seb Bouin interview

Sebastien Bouin had a record breaking 2022, doing the FA of DNA (9c), Suprême Jumbo Love 9b+, Nordic Marathon 9b/+ and he also repeated Change 9b+. (c) Clarisse Bompard

What were your most emotional climbing moments in 2022?
For sure DNA was something really important to me. Clipping the anchor was something unbelievable. Not only for the performance. But I was able to go ahead. I was stuck for such a long time in DNA. Then, I would say the Norway trip was amazing. Doing Nordic Marathon, and Change (9b+) on the last day was something special too. And then, the US trip was the icing on the cake. Doing Suprême Jumbo Love in the last few days was unreal. It's definitely not happening often in life.

What about onsighting? What was your hardest onsight in 2022?
Haha 😆, not that much, my best onsights were some warm-up routes actually, some 8b's. I didn't try any hard onsight during 2022.

How do you train in between all your trips?
When I come back home between trips, I mix crag during the day and train in the gym during the evening (two sessions). It's around a month or two. But this year it was really short period of training between the trips.

Your FAs are by many considered very hard grades. What is your take on grade inflation?
It's hard to make everything coherent. I would say, it should be coherent first in a crag. Then in a region, then in a country. I try to keep coherence in the hard routes I am doing, taking care of different parameters: Time, Climbing style, Comparison with other routes, Feeling, Conditions and Shape

What are your 2023 plans and ambitions? Have you found any new crags to explore?
I am actually in Portugal trying to find the hardest route possible. Then will go a bit in Spain, Céüse, Norway and Italy. Big travels will come in 2024.

Dynamitaki 8b OS by Yuka Kubayashi

Dynamitaki 8b OS by Yuka Kubayashi

Yuka Kubayashi reports on Insta that she has onsighted Dynamitaki (8b) in Manikia, putting up 20 quickdraws.

Yuka is a former successful competition climber who was Top-13 in the World Cup 51 times in between 2004 and 2016. Three times she made the podium.

Perpetuisima 9a by Loic Zehani

Perpetuisima 9a by Loic Zehani

Loic Zehani, who previously has sent 60 routes 8c+/9a and harder, has possibly done the first repeat of Perpetuisima (9a) in Sant Llorenç del Munt. "One of the first routes of this level in Spain by Dani Andrada in 1997. A quick approach, then a nice jump to a good hold. Another hard move to catch a good hold with a sloppe underling. After that, you have a nice bouldery section with a pocket and a big move to a very good hold. For finish in the classic Cadena perpetua (8c). Nice line. Dani graded this 8c+/9a but I think it depends on your height. Happy to climb again after some sessions in "Neanderthal" which is more and more wet."

In the picture, the 21-year-old does possibly the FA of El Ultima ordre y El mon al reves (9a) in Sant Miquel del Fai. "Long traverse left to right (48 mouves, more or less 8B+ traverse) + El mon al revés (8b). Very nice moves and big physical effort. Thanks, Matteo and Javi for the info at the crag. Very steep crag 💪💪💪."

From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C by Clément Lechaptois

From Dirt Grows The Flowers 8C by Clément Lechaptois

Clément Lechaptois, who did his first 8C+ last October, has repeated Dave Graham's From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. (c) Rainer Eder

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I've tried the boulder quite a lot 2 seasons ago when Giul (Cameron) was trying Ephyra but I struggled with the mantle. Came back one day in november with no expectations but it felt way better and managed it. It was the last day of a mini trip. Came back saturday, conditions were good, climbed the mantle again and went for a burn from the start. Everything felt good and climbed the entire boulder !

What is your next plan and ambition?
Psyched on Alphane at the moment!

How was the first sessions?
Oooof, I actually started to try when it was still a project with Shawn & the crew. The last sessions have been quite promising tho.

Solitary Souls 8c+ by Angelika Rainer

Solitary Souls 8c+ by Angelika Rainer

Angelika Rainer, 3 time Ice World Champion, reports on Insta that she has done Solitary Souls (8c+) in Arco. Alfredo Webber did the FA of the 35m tall and 20m overhanging route in 2019 and last year Adam Ondra onsighted it (video), commenting, "unique line, unique to climb!". (c) Marco Servalli

Since I stopped competing in the Ice climbing World Cup a few years ago, I decided to mainly focus on rock climbing and try to see where I can push myself in this climbing discipline. Since last year I’m coached by the former World Cup winner Patxi Usubiaga Lacunza. I have always loved to train hard and to follow a training plan and working with Patxi gives me a huge motivation. Usually, I train or climb outdoors 6 days a week and I switch between the two of them based on the weather, current projects and other daily tasks.

I tried Solitary Souls for the first time last March and was able to do all the moves but as the wall is South facing I thought that it was more of a Winter project and so I came back to it in November. In the end, it only took me 10 days of tries which I think are not much when reaching a new grade, so I guess I can say that the style of the route definitely suits me as I have always been more the endurance type of climber. When I look for a project I don’t only look at the grade, but much more important is the beauty of the line and its surrounding. I love to look at the panorama while I shake out and take a deep breath. It helps me get relaxed at that moment and being in a wonderful place makes the process of trying a hard route even more enjoyable. This route is indeed an amazing line and the view above Arco, Riva and lake Garda is unique, so I would say it’s a 5-star rating."